and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of
Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over
_Garth_, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way
to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to
Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge
is now erecting, must be pursued. And here it may be proper, before we
proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries
across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning
with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2. Garth, near Bangor,
which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3. Porth Aethwy, {53}
before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4. Moel y Donn,
a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5. Tal y Foel,
opposite Carnarvon; 6. Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the
Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person
who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed
from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road,
made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to
his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one
of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full
view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and
Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of
Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic
eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are
lost in the clouds. After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in
and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed
from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous
for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy
the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where
Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in
Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which,
together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas,
renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing. He may then return
into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence
to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of
the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and
re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.
As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the
gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore,
from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he
proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they
occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir
Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is
situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the
site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill,
the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a
most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of
Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel
Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris
new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer
habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of
sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is
Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a
narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great
Irish road. But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot
avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren
rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West
of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. {55} We then proceed to another
small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near
it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of
Colonel Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant
Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by
subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were
the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to
commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant
Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo. Not far
from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of
the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, {56} and by the English the
Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost
inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and
violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a great
obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the
critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of
Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a
Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has
proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every
other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this
part of the Channel.
After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the
magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful
curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees,
which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by
Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also
recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, _Ynys Dywyll_,
the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:
— These woods
Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains.
MASON’S CARACTACUS.
It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front,
sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards
Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide
is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with
his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen
Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with
each other, thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary, in
boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,)
the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with
the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!
Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.
“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”
Behind the House are to be seen two vast _Cromlechs_, the upper stone of
one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick,
supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the
first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four
stones. The number of supporters to _Cromlechs_ are supposed to be
merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent
stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of _Cornwall_, has shewn the
improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the
figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices
on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr.
Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose them to have
been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the
body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine
honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the
dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in
Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the _Pierre Levee_,
near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South,
for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca. They
vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with
stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security
to the remains of the deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most
of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus
closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses;
others are again quite bedded in the _Carnedd_, as is the case with that
at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far from the _Cromlech_ is a large
_Carnedd_, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell,
about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat
stones, and lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones
were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human
neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both
together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture,
yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches
destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those
execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long
imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh
proverb “_Bwrw caeth i Gythraul_,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems
to confirm this opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of
Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is
recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the
_Lodge_, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion,
where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman
has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and
decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a
mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church,
_Llan Edwen_, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a
venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately
repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes,
Knight. Next is Porthamel, {60} late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W.
Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the
admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and
nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W.
P. Lloyd, Esq.
We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry,
(which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting
road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly
changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the
Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa,
{61a} a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new
Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A.
Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this
charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste
and judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that
£24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an
indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the
Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge. On his right, after
he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the
seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the
road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol,
{61b} the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A.
Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of
sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of
sporting. His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This
gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of
which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the
Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper
time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to
Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the
Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a
Baronetage June 15, 1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line,
disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King
William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present
proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or
three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with
the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription:
S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .
The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards
Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this
house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful
eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as
Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are
considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been
observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been
attended with success. It is the general opinion, when these two are
found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some
attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but
hitherto without effecting that object. Near this place is Aber y pwll,
a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to
which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his
Quarry. Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse
Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now
living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it
is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his
grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a
fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three
hundred yards below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on
account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D.
1282, {63} in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a
number of _Gascon_ and Spanish troops, commanded by LUKE DE TANY, were
intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew
numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea. On this occasion
perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger,
thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers.
William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam
with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the
English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still
due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the
troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be
convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their
weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince
Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s
Remains.
When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of
Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who
according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old
times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a
number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be
chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the
super-anuated domestic—relieves the _wants_ of the indigent, and promotes
the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an
indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the fences, the
thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and
the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved
method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer
Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church
of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and
from which his mansion takes its name. Not far from hence is Crûg, a
house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased
by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place
where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John
Wynne, of _Gwydir_, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle
of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the
History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one _Spicer_,
of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a
person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the
Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we
learn from the same authority. Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the
road, is a handsome modern-built house, _Ty Coch_, the residence of the
Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas
Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this
country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this
direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we
lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very
culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and
carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out
of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about
37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this
difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time,
and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the
latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during
the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many
hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the
night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them.
{66} Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the
singularly beautiful entrance to
CARNARVON,
which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers,
Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar,
being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at
the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and
the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which
separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the
boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of
buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and
magnificence of its Castle. Here an admirer of nature may forget his
cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the
stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty _fiat_, and creative
energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the
“_everlasting mountains_.” This place, from its proximity to these
wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious
situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the
stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be
pointed out at the end of this article. The town is a square, inclosed
with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the
South. In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting
the Gate at that point, called by the Welsh _Porth-yr-aur_, where there
it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two
supporting the Eastern entrance, or _Porth-mawr_, and two to the S.E.
making in the whole twelve Towers.
The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the
principal one, (the High Street). Near the Cross formerly stood the old
Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been
re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a
commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and
Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the
boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be
completed; another containing at present a _Depot_ of Arms, and a smaller
one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with
their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every
Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent
institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged.
The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls
are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of
red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several
_fascias_, which gives it a handsome appearance. Edward I. built this
Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town likewise,
on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the
same name {69}) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep
narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended
it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge,
leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and
was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal
Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably
the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a
defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided
into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments,
seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now
demolished. At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three
hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles,
one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and
disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority
of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is
with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old
Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet by seven,
Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a
passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the _nursery_.—The
correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may
be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and
uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that
the Queen of England would select it for the place of her _accouchement_,
when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on
the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as
the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain,
that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room.
From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the
traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view,
comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the
Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of
Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the
huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent. On the
South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon
Towers, and others on the North. On the East is a magnificent entrance,
called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have
entered, with a lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which
also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which
formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or
present mill stream. These Towers communicate all round, by noble
galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar
to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two
_Chef d’œuvre_. In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up,
and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is
pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer,
and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common
people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either
from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on
the other side of the river. Some statements assert that this immense
Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure
us that it was twelve years in building. Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton,
was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him
must have been numbers of other skilful workmen. The Welsh peasants were
employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with
materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium,
and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built,
was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the
grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from
both places. The exterior walls are in general about three yards in
thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been
well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder.
This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or
at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object,
particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of
Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English
line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds
of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see
any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding
this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its
present height and magnitude. When it is considered that it has
withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems
wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is
there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the
war of elements, and the siege of time: