Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist;
it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and
industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the
vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made
into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of
picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of
the artist. Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an
elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect _bijou_, designed by the
late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort
for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry,
or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity. Near to this is
Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn
Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious
arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with
peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the
nature of its object. These two places are accessible to all respectable
visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting
prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable
feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of
Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty
barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the
horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the
chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape. The
present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom
the property was left. This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of
improvement no less active than his noble predecessor. The Park, which
till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence,
has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has
enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a
manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and
masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and
characteristic of the county, being formed of the waste ends of the Slate
rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and
substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding
a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building,
containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to
it. This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not
less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and
commodiousness in the kingdom. Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern
building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was
erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a
brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned. The principal rooms
are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a
very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house
cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of
the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid
and unmeaning attempt at all. Rumour however says, that the present
proprietor contemplates some very important improvements. The situation
is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice.
Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of
Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded to) is
situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was
also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and
technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work
at Penrhyn Castle. The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy
of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.
Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is
Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for
the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of
the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the
Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry
until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them. The
vastly increasing demand for these Slates, {38} necessarily requires a
proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay,
at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by
the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to
his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly
execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and
will greatly facilitate the Trade there. The beautiful Bridge too, which
Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will
considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of
Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the
same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to
be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying
that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete
Shipping places in the Principality. The Slates are conveyed from the
Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means
of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a
rail-road. The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus
conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable.
Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called
the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the
brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation. The view from the
Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly
so. The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the
stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a
most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.
From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we must now (as
faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the
works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the
great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much
altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the
old line. It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent
near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or
two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the
communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and
in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the
above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an
insecure foundation. But before we proceed farther, and that we may
preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a
short History of
BANGOR.
So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from
Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a
small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called
_Tor onnen_, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea,
Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town.
St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop
of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated
Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550. This
Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor
Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he
founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to
have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was
converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd. The above St.
Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to
have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at
the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which
circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines:
Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi,
(Drwy arch y Prophwydi)
Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi
Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.
“When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St.
David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of
Bardsey.”
The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present
comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following
parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys
Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; in
Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the
greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.
The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient,
but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated
state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord
Chancellor’s decision as to the _quantum_ of Grant, which his Lordship
may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete
repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles
are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the
whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the
inside. From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the
Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6
feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54
feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110
feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208.
The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the
breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats
nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24
feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and
South Aisles is 4 feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt
in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren. There
are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a
Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to
the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two
Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, {43} Chancellor, and three Canons,
not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers,
and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North
Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and
bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the
South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which
Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing
Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards
became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of
Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held
a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of
Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to
have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened Edward
the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other
services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his
successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the
residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in
the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the
Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth).
In his time also the house in London was given. The offices secundum
usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library,
and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John
Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by
him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon
afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the
country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar,
and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom. In the year
1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and
continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by
Bishop Dean or Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that
liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following
inscription, at the West end, “_Thomas Skevington_, _Episcopus Bangoriæ_,
_hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus_ 1532.” The height
of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably
higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that
design. The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the
times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean
Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the
Bells. On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop
Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of
Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and
Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the
fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810. Bishop H.
Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of
his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward
Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands
died July 1616, and is here buried, _ætatis_ 65; here also is buried
Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, _ætat._ 78. About the space of two
stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in
one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died
September, 1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the
South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate upon it, is this
inscription: “_Gulielmus __Glynn natus in Insula Mona_, _&c._” he was
Bishop of Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is
supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on
a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes,
in 1169. On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for
Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of
Richard III. and Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of
Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as
Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice)
ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the
bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they
transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence.
He died the 13th of August 1502. The place of his interment was till
within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by
the name of _Bedd y Deon Du_, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so
called, in all probability, from his complexion. It appears, from the
Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was
interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that
an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a
vestige now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai,
before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin
inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of
York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his
episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar. This great Prelate was born at
Conway; his father, _Edmund_, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of
_Cochwillan_, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by
Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the
Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s
Collections. Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his
Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on
the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey,
where the persons represented had been interred.
The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the
Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was
partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious
apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly
improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie. The residence of
the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the
Cathedral.
Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands,
a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner,
about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and
Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was
interred here in 1311. Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by
Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn
Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and
William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by
Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to
Bishop Glynn. By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management
of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but
the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they
delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on
the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the
Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s,
who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us
that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a
fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword
carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap
Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor.
A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house
for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren,
and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the
School. Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a
little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This
Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in
great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence,
(Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this
establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this
portion of the principality.
Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an
Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free
School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616. The Dispensary,
a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City,
October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s
Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent
Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the
worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It is with
heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on
the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by
Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the
House Apothecary.
The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind
Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on
Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the
reader, the author is unknown:
Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire,
And mute those strings, whose magic tone
Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire,
And move to life her mountain stone.
Cold is the hand, that once could sweep
The native Harp, with Bardic sway;
Could lull each passion rude to sleep,
And drive the steps of care away.
Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here,
To kiss the Harp your master sway’d,
And o’er it drop the mournful tear,
And let it in his grave be laid.
For now like him ’tis mute and dead,
Its accents all are hush’d and still;
The power is gone—the spirit fled,
And every nerve in death is chill.
But shall that spirit rise no more,
And shall its powers no more revive,
And, on this “Muse deserted shore,”
Shall no such Bard hereafter live?
Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream,
And raise thy drooping downcast head;
Nor longer drop the pearly stream,
Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.
For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine,
In ages yet unborn may rise;
Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line,
And lift thy glory to the skies.
A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is
at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and
others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it
called the Waterloo Tavern. Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the
East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House
erected for the residence of one of the Vicars. In short, from the
speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for
Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is
generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of
considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it
is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly
in the Summer season. The population, according to the last _Census_, in
1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000. The principal
Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo
Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms
at the West end of the Town.
Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at
Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was
situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of
hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance
from the Port. It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill.
Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they
extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a
precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the same
manner. On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a
farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form,
with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls. The precise
time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had
effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.
In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was
discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to
Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription;
NVMNC
IMP CAESAR M
AVRELANTONINVS
PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB
IX