Transcribed from the 1821 J. Hulme edition by David Price, email
ccx074@pglaf.org
THE
TOURIST’S GUIDE
THROUGH THE
Country of Caernarvon,
CONTAINING A SHORT SKETCH
OF ITS
HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.
* * * * *
By the Rev. P. B. Williams, A.B.
_RECTOR OF LLANRUG AND LLANBERIS_.
* * * * *
_CAERNARVON_:
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. HULME,
_Bookbinder & Stationer_, _Turf-Square_.
AND MAY BE HAD OF POOLE & HARDING, CHESTER; R. TAYLOR,
LIVERPOOL; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS
—_o_—
1821.
* * * * *
TO
THOMAS JAMES WARREN BULKELEY,
Lord Viscount Bulkeley
OF CASHEL, IN THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND;
_AND BARON BULKELEY_,
OF BEAUMARIS, IN THE KINGDOM OF ENGLAND;
PEER OF THE REALM;
LORD LIEUTENANT, & CUSTOS HOTULORUM, OF THE COUNTY OF CAERNARVON
CHANCELLOR AND CHAMBERLAIN OF NORTH WALES;
CONSTABLE OF BEAUMARIS CASTLE, &c. &c.
A Nobleman, whose sole study is to do Good, and to promote the Happiness
and Welfare of his Fellow Creatures; and who is highly Esteemed, and
greatly and justly Beloved in this part of the Principality; and has
repeatedly and deservedly received the Thanks of the Bench of
Magistrates, as well as those of the Established Militia, under their
gallant Commander, Col. EDWARDS, and the other Officers, for the
Admirable Method with which he has Organized the County, and his ready
Attention and Assistance at all Times when requisite,—This little
Publication, is most Respectfully inscribed, by
His Lordship’s
Most obedient,
And most devoted
Humble Servant,
_P. B. WILLIAMS_.
Llanrug, April 9, 1821.
ADVERTISEMENT.
THE following small compilation (for it claims no higher title) was made
at the request of several friends, as the want of such a little Manuel
principally for the use of Strangers, was generally known and
acknowledged. The Writer would not have permitted his name to appear,
had he not been persuaded by the Publisher, that the countenance of even
such an obscure individual would in some degree tend to promote the sale
of the work. Some of the Subscribers, there is reason to apprehend,
expect a full and complete History of the County, but surely they do not
suppose that such a work could be compressed within the compass of an
octavo volume, or sold for such a small sum.
At some future period, the Writer would not be unwilling to undertake
such a Publication, (should he meet with proper encouragement, and his
life be spared) as he has for many years been collecting materials for
such a work.
Subscribers’ Names.
Most Noble the Marquis of Anglesey, 6 copies
Rev. Thomas Alban, Llandrillo’n rhos 3 copies, bound
Mr. Ambrose, Penrhyn Arms Inn
* * * * *
Viscount Warren Bulkeley, 6 copies bound
Lord Bishop of Bangor, 4 copies
— Beresford, Esq. Carnarvon
J. Bradley, Esq. Plastirion
Harwood Banner, Esq. Liverpool
C. Brown, Esq. Manchester
Mr. Bettiss, Hotel, Carnarvon, 6 copies 1 bound
.. Black, Organist, Carnarvon
.. Broster, Bangor
.. T. Bowers, Chester
* * * * *
Rev. J. H. Cotton, Bangor, 2 copies
Edward Carreg, Esq. Carnarvon, bd
R. T. Carreg, Esq. Cefn mine, bound
* * * * *
Very Rev. The Dean of Bangor
— Dawson, Esq. Bangor
Mr. Davies, Crown & Anchor Inn, Bangor, 2 copies
.. Day, Schoolmaster, Carnarvon
.. J. Davies, Slate Merchant, do.
.. Davies, Mercer, Carnarvon
.. William Dalrymple, Liverpool
.. Davies, Bee Inn, Abergeleu
* * * * *
Colonel Edwards, Nanhoron, 6 copies
Miss Edwards, Nanhoron
J. Evans, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon
J. G. Evans, Esq. Carnarvon
Hugh Evans, Esq. Henblas
John Ellis, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli
Rev. T. Ellis, near Llanrwst
Mr. Evan Evans, Solicitor, Carnarvon
.. E. Evans, Shopkeeper, do.
.. R. Evans, Grocer, do.
.. Owen Ellis, do.
.. T. Evans, Brazier, Bangor
.. Ellis, Surveyor of Customs, Beaumaris
.. Evans, Tanner, Dolydd
.. Eyres, Druggist, Liverpool
.. J. Evans, Ty’n y coed, Abereirch bound
* * * * *
Right Honorable Maurice Fitzgerald, M.P. Knight of Kerry, bound
Mr. Fleming, Green, Carnarvon
.. Edmund Francis, do.
.. H. Field, Castle Inn, Bangor
.. Fletcher, Bangor
* * * * *
R. Garnons, Esq. Carnarvon, 1 dozen
John Griffith, Esq. Llanfair, 4 copies
W. G. Griffith, Esq. Bodegroes, 2 copies 1 bound
Joseph Goddard, Esq. Carnarvon
Holland Griffith, Esq. Garreglwyd
R. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli, bd
J. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Llanrwst
Rev. D. Griffith, Llanfair, Anglesey, bd
Rev. W. Griffith, Rector of Llandwrog, and Chaplain of H. M. Dock Yard,
Pembroke
Miss Griffith, 78 Aungier Street, Dublin
Miss M. A. Gething, Holyhead
Mr. Philip Gale, Stationer, Liverpool
.. H. Griffith, Druggist, Carnarvon, bd
.. O. Griffith, Tryfan
.. J. Griffith, Clynog, Anglesey
.. G. Griffith, Four-mile bridge
* * * * *
Captain Haslam, Carnarvon, 6 copies
— Hewitt, Esq. Bangor
Thomas Hughes, Esq. Solicitor, L—pool
Rev. J. Hamer, Bangor
.... Morris Hughes, Llandegai
.... J. Holland, Dolbenmaen
.... L. Hughes, Llanllechid
.... Richard Hughes, Brynllwyd
.... E. Herbert, Llanfair fechen
.... G. Herbert, Amlwch
.... H. Hughes, Llanfaethle, bound
Dr. Hughes, Pwllheli
Lieutenant Hughes, Carnarvon
Miss Howard, Conway, 3 copies
Mr. Hughes, Waterloo Tavern, Bangor 3 copies
.. R. Hughes, Shopkeeper, do bd
.. R. Hughes, Boot-maker, do bd
.. Hughes; Merchant, Carnarvon, bd
.. Hughes, Goat Inn, do
.. J. Hughes, Currier, Llanrwst
.. Hyman, Jeweller, Bangor, bd
Mrs. Hartwell, Post Office, Carnarvon, bound
Mr. Humphreys, Customs, ditto
.. Hobson, Factor, Birmingham
.. Hughes, Draper, Pwllheli, bd
.. Hughes, Timber Merchant, Pwllheli
* * * * *
Thomas Jones, Esq. Bryntirion 2 cop. 1 bound
John Jonas, Esq. Solicitor, Beaumaris
Robert Jones, Esq. Pen y bryn, bound
Rev. H. W. Jones, Treiorwerth, three copies
.... Henry Jones, Ty coch
.... J. Jones, Mynydd Ednyfed
.... Mr. Jones, Rector of Criciaeth
.... J. Jones, Llanllyfni, bound
.... Robert Jones, Boduan
.... J. Jones, Llanbedr goch
Rev. D. Jones, Llandoged
Mr. J. Jackson, Capel Curig Inn, six copies, 1 bound
.. Edward Jones, Ty’n y maes, 6 cop
Dr. Jones, Pwllheli, bound
Captain Jones, Pant howel
Mrs. Jones, Castellmai
Miss Jones, ditto
.... Jervoise, Litchfield
.... Jump, Liverpool
Mr. William Jones, Attorney, Carnarvon
Mr. Robert Jones, Shopkeeper, Ditto
.. Owen Jones, Merchant, Ditto
.. Jones, Currier, Ditto
.. Thomas Jones, Customs, Beaumaris
.. John Jonas, Goaler, Carnarvon
.. Jones, Pen y bryn, Eglwys bach
.. Richard Jones, Union, Carnarvon, bound
.. Jones, Eagles Inn, Llanrwst, bd
.. J. Jones, Surgeon, do
.. Robert Jones, Timber Merchant, St. Asaph
.. Jones, Machine Tavern, Rhudlan
.. H. Jones, Grocer, Abergeleu
.. William Jones, Mine Agent, Llandudno
* * * * *
Rev. J. Kyffin, Bangor, bound
.... J. Kyffin, Llanystyndwy, bound
Mr. William Kyffin, Eglwys fach, bd
.. M‘Kergow, Boduan
* * * * *
John Lloyd, Esq. Pen y glannau, Maentwrog, 6 copies
Colonel Lloyd, Marle, bound
T. Lloyd, Esq. Glangwna
Mrs. Lloyd, do
Miss F. Lloyd, do
J. T. Lloyd, Esq. Shrewsbury
Mrs. J. T. Lloyd, do
John Lane, Esq. Staffordshire
R. Llwyd, Esq. (Author of ‘Beaumaris Bay,’) Bank Place, Chester
J. E. Lloyd, Esq. Trallwyn
— Ludgate, Esq. Liverpool
Rev. William Lloyd, Festiniog
Miss Lewis, Mount Hazle
Mr. Lloyd, Collector of Excise, Carnarvon
.. L. Louis, Schoolmaster, Abergeleu
.. John Lloyd, Architect, Carnarvon
Miss A. Lewis, Bangor
Mr. Lewis, Bull’s-head Inn, Aber, bd
.. Lloyd, Druggist, Liverpool, bound
.. Lloyd, Brynkir, bound
.. Richard Leister, Llanrhos
* * * * *
Mr. M‘Lean, Gwynfryn
.. Lenthal, Maenan
Colonel Mc Gregor
Rev. H. Majendie, Bangor, 2 copies
Captain Majendie
W. Mason, Esq. M. D. Carnarvon
Rev. T. G. Moulsdale, Llanfair Talhaiarn
Mr. Morgan, Bank, Carnarvon
.. Millington, do
.. Mumford, Supervisor, Conway
.. H. Morris, Ty gwyn, Llanrug
* * * * *
O. J. E. Nanney, Esq. Gwynfryn, 2 copies, 1 bound
Rev. Mr. Nanney, Belmont
Mr. Nembard, Plasmadoc
.. Nichols, Tan yr allt Nursery
* * * * *
E. Owen, Esq. Carnarvon
Captain Robert Owen, Carnarvon
Rev. G. Owen, Carnarvon, 6 copies
.... E. Owen, Llaniestyn
.... E. A. Owen, Holyhead
.... J. Owen, Conway
Mr. Owen, Attorney, Carnarvon
.. Owen, Druggist, do
.. W. Owen, Shopkeeper, do
.. Humphrey Owen, Rhyddgaer, Anglesey
.. Ormerod, Gwyndu
Miss M. Owen, Inn, Festiniog
* * * * *
G. H. Dawkins Pennant, Esq. M.P.
Mrs. Pennant
T. P. I. Parry, Esq. Madryn, 3 copies
Colonel Parry, do bound
Captain Parry, R. N. Carnarvon
W. St. George Pelisier, Esq. Priory
Paul Panton, Esq. Plasgwyn
O. A. Poole, Esq. Gorphwysfa
Colonel Peacock, Anglesey
Iohn Price, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon 2 copies
Messrs. Poole and Harding, Chester 6 copies
Dr. Pring, Bangor
Rev. H. Price, Friars, Bangor
.... T. Parry, Treborth
.... H. Pugh, Llansaintffraid
.... O. Parry, Llanfair yn nghornwy
Mr. I. Prichard, Beddgelert, 2 copies
.. Edward Price, Carnarvon
.. Parry, Treborth, bound
.. Paul, Bangor
.. Powell, Customs, Carnarvon
.. Preece, Schoolmaster, do
.. Payne, Liquor Merchant, do
.. Robert Pritchard, Liverpool
Mr. Parry, Harp, Carnarvon, bound
.. R. Price, Traeth coch
.. O. H. Parry, Cromlech
.. Preston, Four-mile bridge
* * * * *
Hugh Rowlands, Esq. Ty mawr, Clynog
Iohn Rowlands, Esq. Plastirion
E. Griffith Roberts, Esq. Aber
W. Roberts, Esq. Oakland, Llanrwst
Robert Roberts, Esq. Bank, Carnarvon
Iohn Roberts, Esq. Dep. Reg. Bangor
Rev. Mr. Roberts, Hendre, 2 copies
.... I. Roberts, Llanengan. 2 copies
.... Owen Reynolds, Aber, bound
.... T. Read, Beaumaris
.... Ellis Roberts, Bangor, bound
.... H. Rowlands, Beaumaris
.... W. Roberts, Gallt y beren
Mr. Redding, Bull’s Head Inn, Beaumaris, 6 copies
.. Iohn Roberts, Surgeon, Carnarvon
.. W. Roberts, Surgeon, Green, do
.. H. Roberts, Carnarvon, bound
.. Roberts, Surgeon, Bangor
.. Rathbone, Druggist, do
.. Rouse, Harp Inn, Conway
.. Roberts, Surgeon, Llanrwst
.. Roberts, Watch-maker, Bangor
.. Richards, Tailor, Carnarvon
.. Richardson, Factor, Birmingham
.. Rhodes, Attorney, Liverpool
.. Rasbrook, Post Office, Bangor
.. Richardson, Carnarvon
.. G. Roberts, Clynog
.. Rice, Crown and Anchor, Pwllheli bound
.. Roberts, Attorney, Pwllheli
.. Roberts, Liquor merchant, do
.. Radford, Guard of the Prince Regent Coach
.. Robert Roberts, Holyhead
.. Read, Attorney, Llanrwst
Mrs. Roberts, Glass Shop, Carnarvon
.... Roberts, Ty hen, Llwyngwnadl
* * * * *
T. A. Smith, Esq. Vaynol, 4 copies
Captain Sewell, Carnarvon
* * * * *
Rice Thomas, Esq. Coed helen
William Turner, Esq. Parkia, near Carnarvon
Rev. J. W. Trevor, do
.... I. Titley, Llanrwst
.... W. Thomas, Trefor, Beamaris
Mr. Titterton, Carnarvon, bound
.. Thomas, Surgeon, bound
.. Thomas, Druggist, Llanrwst
Mr. Toleman, Watch-maker, Carnarvon
.. Richard Taylor, Bookseller, Liverpool, 2 copies
.. David Thomas, Bard of Snowdon
Miss Thomas, Port Penrhyn, Bangor bound
* * * * *
I Utterson, Esq. Bangor, bound
* * * * *
C. W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin
H. R. Williams, Esq. Penrhos
R. Lloyd Williams, Esq. Denbigh 2 copies
W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli bound
Iames Wyatt, Esq. Lime Grove, two copies
Archibald Worthington, Esq. Bangor
I. Williams, Esq. Pant, Anglesey
Thomas Williams, Esq. Beaumaris
William Williams, Esq. Hendrewaelod
Iohn Williams, Esq. Tregarnedd
Richard Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon
W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon
Rev. W. Williams, Bangor Street, do
Robert Williams, Esq. Solicitor, do bd
Rev. R. Williams, Friars, Bangor bd
.... D. Williams, Llandwrog
.... Iames Williams, Treffos, Anglesey
.... Hugh Williams, Clynog, 2 copies
.... Dr. Williams, Llanbedrog
.... W. Williams, Trawsfynydd
.... E. Williams, Llanrhaiadr
.... G. Williams, Weeg
.... Mr. Williams, Treffos
.... Gethin Williams, Rhiwlas, bd
.... I. Williams, Llanbedr
Captain Walker, Bangor
Mr. Williams, Castle Inn, do. 3 copies
.. E. Williams, Strand, London, two dozen
.. Williams, Druggist, Carnarvon bd
.. Williams, Land Surveyor, Bangor
.. Williams, Solicitor, do
.. I. Willians, Shopkeeper, Carnarvon
.. Robert Williams, do do
.. Williams, Pool Street do
.. Williams, Plumber do
.. Wakeman do bd
.. Owen Wynne, do bd
.. Williams, Druggist, Pwllheli
.. I. Watkin, Tanner, Abereirch
.. H. D. Williams, Surgeon, Llansaintffraid
HISTORY
OF
_CARNARVONSHIRE_.
CARNARVONSHIRE, one of the six Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the
West by the Irish sea, on the North by the strait called Menai, which
divides it from Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern
coast, and Denbighshire limits the Eastern.
As Travellers generally enter this County either along the Conway or
Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their sakes, to commence
its History with a short account of the Town and neighbourhood of
CONWAY.
But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be necessary
to inform the stranger that there is a District of this County, on the
Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway; and whether he be a
Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or Antiquary, he may, if he have
leisure, spend a few days on this side of the water with pleasure and
advantage. This detached part of the County of Carnarvon is called
_Creuddin yn Rhos_, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat;
it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or more properly
Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and about the ruins of old Diganwy,
or Dingonwy, now called _y Faerdre_, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist
will find a great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be
tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the Historian and
Antiquary be induced to visit the curious collection of old Books and
Manuscripts, in the libraries of Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod
Caswallawn) two old family seats, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart.
the former built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it
has undergone very little or no alteration, and almost all the old
furniture is preserved in the same state. Marle has also been a fine old
house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was at one
time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd Williams, of
Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir Robert, it devolved to Sir
Thomas Prendergast, an Irish Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne,
sister to Sir Robert, but at present this house, as well as the Ferry of
Conway, art in the possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great
Marlow.
On the very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is
situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno, whose
rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far distant. On the
Western side of this Mountain is a tremendous precipice, over-hanging the
sea, and these rocks are frequented in the summer season by great numbers
of birds of passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are
the Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and the
Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this stupendous
rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in these impending crags.
In the days of Falconry these birds were considered so excellent, that
the great minister BURLEIGH, sent a letter of thanks to an ancestor of
Sir Thomas MOSTYN’S, for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place.
The British name of this hill, _Gogarth_, seems to be derived from ogo,
or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are several caves
under this rock, and particularly one very large, inaccessible except by
water; not far from it are the ruins of an old Palace, belonging to the
Bishops of Bangor; there is also a farm house near the spot, known by the
above name, Gogarth. Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not
known) that this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway.
The Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and
afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock, was
celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small remains of it
are on two hills, not far from the shore of the river, nearly opposite
the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea; there is a house a little
below it, which still bears the name, and was lately inhabited by Lord
Kirkwall; the walls of the old Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on
the summit of one of them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all
probability this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally
constructed of _timber_, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was
destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, {12}—the founder of it is not
known. It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in the
possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again destroyed by
Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then repaired it, and King John
encamped under its walls in the year 1211, and was reduced to great
distress by the skill and prudence of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off
his supplies. Henry III. suffered still greater calamities near this
place, in the year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was
Constable; one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their
miseries. At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled by our last
Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.
Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower; its form
is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12; its walls compose
only two thirds of a circle, the rest is open. In all probability it was
a Watch Tower, and connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat. The
name of this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau,
blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so
denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles fought here
between the English and Welsh. The fine view of Conway Castle and the
Bennarth woods, from this side of the river, is greatly and deservedly
admired. The original name of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably
was inhabited, and was a place of some strength, prior to the
establishment of a Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap
Jorwerth, Prince of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in
opulence and respectability, as the privileges of the members of this
community, like many others of a similar description, were very
considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in all parts from
Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free passage over the
ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was
endowed with Lands to a great extent, both in this County and in
Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr, (Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and
Morfa Dinlle, are mentioned. The Castle was built by Edward the first,
about the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might find
these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and troublesome
neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles higher up on the
Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from Llanrwst, where there is
an old family seat belonging to Lord Newborough, which still retains the
name of the Abbey. The town of Conway has four entrances: The upper
Gate, the lower, or that next to the River, a Portal between that and the
Castle, and another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the
mill. Mr. PENNANT’S observation with respect to this place is this, “a
more ragged Town is scarcely to be seen _within_, or a more beautiful one
_without_;” the form is nearly triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls,
and guarded by 24 round Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on
the River. The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. corner, and
is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a structure of
“matchless magnificence,” and a more beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never
arose. The Architect, Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under
whose direction Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted
all his skill here. It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from the
River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced work, before
one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by small round Towers; at
the other extremity is a similar work; from which there was a drawbridge
into the Town.—Over a great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a
beautiful oriel window. The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is
bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every tide;
within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight vast Towers, each
with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing from its top, within which
was a winding staircase.
The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form,
conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end with a
large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel; it was one
hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad, and of great height;
the roof was supported by eight noble Arches, six of which still remain
there was a great fireplace at one end, and another on the side, it had
six windows to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were
vast Vaults and Cellars. The foundation of one of the Towers next the
Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the _Hanging Tower_.
Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered that the
Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time being) should
preserve its privileges. William Sikun was appointed first to that
honor. At present it is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner,
Water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually. Its
privileges extended from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could
be convicted of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected
in that District, and such was the case with all the other English
Garrisons in North Wales.
Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and
Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament. The Great Sessions for
the County were formerly held here, alternately with Carnarvon, but the
latter place being more central, enjoys that privilege at present
exclusively. The resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889.
The Market is on Friday. Conway is 232 miles N.W. from London. The
passage over the river is attended with many inconveniences, and not many
years ago a boat was upset, and several lives lost. The ferrymen are
said to be very uncivil, and are accused of practising great impositions
on strangers. {17} The regular charge ought to be one penny for a foot
passenger, two-pence for a man and horse, and half a crown a wheel for a
carriage, but they generally demand more than double these sums, and then
importune for liquor.
It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on the
Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same attention to
the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected here, over the
Conway; as this is the principal communication between Dublin and the
North of England.
Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of the town,
built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir family, in the year
1585, will be likely to attract the traveller’s attention. Over the
gateway are the words Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the
House these capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of
inscribing our Saviour’s name. The Church, the ruins of an old Abbey,
and another old House, called the College, also claim a visit from the
stranger.
Gyffin, a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst,
is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway. The late
Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the interest of which he
directed to be applied to the keeping of a School here. The Vicarage of
Conway, as well as Gyffin, are in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor.
On the summit of the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the
bifurcated rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of
an ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one entrance, and
this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary, and
which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he says, there are the remains
of a great work; it is described by him as being a mile out of the town,
but in what direction is not mentioned. Camden also mentions a British
Post, called Caer Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a
lofty hill, near Conway marsh. The Castle of Sinnodun is also
represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the County,
annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s Britannia. As this small
work is intended merely as a guide to the Tourist, in his excursion
through the County, it cannot be expected to contain a very _detailed_ or
_particular_ account of every object, which may deserve attention; for
this reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, during
the Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe, that the
custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop Williams, of the
Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the gentlemen and freeholders of
the neighbourhood had placed a number of valuable articles under his
care, and for which he had given them receipts, and thus became
answerable for the property, he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by
Prince Rupert, without assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it
was taken, however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton.
The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near Bangor, where
his Monument is still to be seen.
It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and blunders of
transcribers, to conjecture how TOISOBIUS should become PTOLEMY’S
CONOBIUS, or Conovius, (or Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may
be supposed, that the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the
v converted into b, so as to form TOINOBIUS, instead of COINOVIUS. The
derivation of the word Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd
conjectures, from _Cyn_, chief or principal, and _Gwy_, or _wy_, water;
the prefix _cyn_, being augmentative, as cyn-gann, very white; cyn-dynn,
very stiff; or signifying first or chief, as cynfyd, the old antediluvian
world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and Dr. Davies supposes _cyn_ to be
synonymous with penn, as _cyntaf_, _penaf_, first or chief. Admitting
this, _Cungetorix_ would be _Cyntwrch_, and _Cunobelinus_, _Cynfelyn_,
_&c._
The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its muscle-pearl
fishery. Pliny informs us, that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus
Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a Breastplate set with British Pearls;
and Suetonius alledges the acquisition of these, as one motive for his
invasion of the Island. Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found
in this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great Britain
or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large ones in the
possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of Bodysgallen. Mr. Pennant
distinguishes this shell-fish by the name of _Mya Margaritifera_. A vein
of Burr, (a species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the
year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from France,
there is no great demand for them.
The ancient _Conovium_, for some time the station of the Tenth Roman
Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles up the River, and
near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman Hypocaust, a small
Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were discovered there, by the
late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of
great worth and integrity, highly esteemed and respected in his
neighbourhood, and a person who had a great taste for the study of
Antiquities. And what renders this conjecture more probable is this,
that there is a hill not far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer
Lleon, or the Hill of the Legion. The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time
Rector of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of
Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X. This Legion was denominated
Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at Chester, (CAER LLEON GAWR, or
CAER LLEION AR DDYFRDWY) was distinguished by the name VICESSIMA VICTRIX,
and the Second Legion, stationed at CAER LEON, in Monmouthshire, or CAER
LLEON AR WYSC, was known by the title of AUGUSTA BRITANNICA. And there
was (no doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to
Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably through
Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y
street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal near
Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very
considerable remains were discovered.
The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no doubt, consider
his time well employed, and find his propensity amply gratified, were he
to deviate here, from the direct road to Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace
the Conway to its source, or at least to its junction with the Lledr and
Machno; he would then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and
in proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able to
visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the Scenery
constantly changing, and new beauties presenting themselves to his view,
at almost every turn of the road. My limits will merely allow me to
enumerate some of the objects which claim his attention, and ought to be
visited, which are the numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr
(near Caer Rhun) and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful
woods; the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the
Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient Proprietors of Gwydir,
and the handsome Bridge over the Conway, supposed to have been erected by
the celebrated Inigo Jones, who is said to have been a native of that
neighbourhood. Near this town are also several Lead Mines. The
traveller will then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village
of Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway, on
the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the Conway and
Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the river Lligwy; when
about half way between that Village and Capel Curig Inn, he will stop to
view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous Cateract, and from the last mentioned
Inn, he may either continue his rout along the Irish road to Bangor, or
direct his course to Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve
miles, or turn off on the right from that road, after he has proceeded
about four miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful
pass, and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to
notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of Snowdon. But
as most strangers will no doubt proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall
be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some of the
particulars which are worth their attention along this line of road: For
the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening
between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a
most magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full
view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels;
the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of Llangoed, the Town of
Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the former the beautiful seat of
Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter that of his brother, Sir Robert
Williams, Baronet, M.P. all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire
side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge
Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural
barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every
communication this way, and render any further progress impracticable;
the art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and
surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772 an excellent road was
formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice,
under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having
generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to this event several
fatal accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous
escapes are recorded in Mr. PENNANT’S Tour through North Wales. At that
time no carriages passed this way, and consequently all the travelling
was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was generally a
Pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a
pane of glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this Mountain:—
Before you venture here to pass,
Take a good refreshing glass;—
And when you are over, take another,
Your fainting spirits to recover.
Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned,
to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the
left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a place called Gwddw
Glâs, in that Parish; here are several circles of stones of various
diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have
been memorials of those Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as
_Cistfaens_, or Stone Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these
circular heaps, or collections of stones. The principal Circle now
consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest is
eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two;
the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet. Near this are four other
smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a
Cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or
Bardic Circle. About a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle,
composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not
far from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the last is a
huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone of Games; and
nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle of twelve stones;
adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this
country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen or Irishmen’s Huts) being the
foundations of small buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige
of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway.
Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or
encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer
Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their Cattle. Having
mentioned Maen y Campian, it may not perhaps be considered a digression
to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were
ten _Gwrolgampau_, or manly games, viz. 1. To lift up great weights; 2.
Running; 3. Leaping; 4. Swimming; 5. Wrestling; 6. Riding. These six
were stiled _Tadogion_, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons,
and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, _Marchogaeth_,
is supposed to have included Charioteering, or the skilful driving and
management of different kinds of carriages. The other four were, 1.
Archery; 2. Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3. Playing with the
Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4. Chwarau ffonn ddwybig, or
playing with the two-end Staff or Spear. Next to these were the ten
_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1.
Coursing; 2. Fishing; 3. Fowling; the remaining seven were of the
domestic kind: 1. Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition; 2. Chwareu’r
Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3. Reading Welsh; 4. Singing with the
Harp; 5. Singing between three or four, most probably in alternate
Stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of
Arms; 7. Heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or Minor Games,
viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2.
Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be
derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, little, and _Cammawn_, or
Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau
Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice Box, in what manner it was played is
not known at present; 4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp.
After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top
of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dwygyfylchi Church,
not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the
seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In the clefts of the rock, above the
Turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the CRATÆGUS ARIA, or White Beam
Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent
Spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been
fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are
still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small buildings,
most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers; it was no doubt a
strong military Post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the
Britons and Romans. The Roman Road, from Segontium to Conovium, must
have passed near it, probably on the South side; and this high mountain,
so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind
of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this
County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now
called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen,
near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many fortified eminences in the
other County, on the East. The usual signals in ancient times were fires
by night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined _Braich
y Dinas_, which is the name by which the fortified part of the mountain
is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road through the Parish
of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small Church on an eminence, a
little to the left of the road, and on the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old
neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq.
and afterwards conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by
the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon pass
Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon reach the
beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small river, and at the
entrance of a narrow Glenn. Near the Bridge is a Circular Mount,
seemingly artificial, which was the foundation of a small Castle,
probably constructed of timber, as many of our Welsh Fortresses are
stated to have been consumed by fire. Several of the Welsh Princes
resided occasionally at this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here,
about the year 1246, and was buried in the Abbey of Conway.
Traces of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were
probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the inhabitants still
pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the old kitchen. Several
Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn,
which is the ancient name by which this place was distinguished. William
de Breos, (son of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.)
who had been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was
detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King of
England). The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her infidelity,
caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the opposite hill; and
there is a tradition, that the Princess going out the next morning, and
accidentally meeting the Bard of the Palace, the latter (knowing that she
was ignorant of the fate of her lover) accosted her in the following
poetical rhyme:
Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym?
that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of
your William?” to which she answered:—
Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn,
Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!
_i.e._ Wales and England, and Llywelyn,
I would give them all to see my William!
The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging on a tree,
on the side of a hill, at a place now called Wern Grogedig. It is added
in Camden, “Tradition buries De Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae
Gwilym Ddu.” {30} Nearly at the extremity of this romantic Glenn, about
a mile from the Village, the River forms a noble Cataract, precipitating
itself down the front of a bold lofty rock, and making a double fall, the
lowest of which is of very considerable height. This Village is much
frequented in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are
very good. The beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea-bathing,
and many strangers remain here some time for that purpose. There is a
road from hence, over the mountain, by Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn
ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst; and another over the sands to Beaumaris,
but this latter is not to be attempted by a stranger without a guide. It
is remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains were
guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber, Craig y Gaer and
Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort at Nant Ffranco; (or
Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at Dolbadarn, Nant Pevis; Castell
Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas, near Llanllyfni; a Fort near
Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant
Gwynant, near Bethgelert. Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the
greatest part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor
to this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s Patronage,
having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own expence, and
furnished them with Bells. The distance from hence to Bangor is about
five miles, and as the stranger proceeds he cannot help admiring the
ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of the prospects which present
themselves to his view: On the Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris,
Baron Hill, The Friars, Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly
before him, on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and
much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and Castle,
rising in Majestic grandeur. The Church of Llandegai has lately been
very much improved and beautified, by means of a very handsome Legacy,
left by the late Lady Penrhyn for that purpose. The whole of the
interior has been renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling,
Plastering, and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of
Six Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as
well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased Lord, which is
now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of
work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two Figures, one a
Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his hand, reading the
inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his benefactors, the other is
a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the loss of her deceased Lord and
Lady; there are some other smaller Figures, very descriptive of the
progress of improvement amongst the Peasantry, under the directing
influence of his Lordship.
Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we must not omit
here to notice a very great improvement, and accommodation to the public,
which has been effected, at very considerable expence, through the
liberality of Mr. Pennant, we mean the new piece of road, to the left,
made to avoid that dangerous and ugly hill near the Church. This part of
the County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved by
the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and direction of
Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his Lordship’s Agent, two individuals
who were real benefactors to the Country, and whose names have every
claim to the grateful recollections not only of the inhabitants of this
neighbourhood, but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to
enter this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant Ffrancon, which is now
the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead. At the former place, an
Inn, upon a very commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the
late Lord Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of
giving greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately erected
there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to give those who
might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn, an opportunity of
changing horses at the road, and also for the better accommodation of the
Mail and Stage Coaches; he has likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes,
and made the Inn there into a Posting House, to divide that long and
tedious stage, which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry. Capel
Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road to it is
carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant Ffrancon. The
formation of such a road, in so rude and unfrequented a region, was one
of the earliest and most important improvements which the late Lord
Penrhyn effected, in this part of the Country; it has since undergone, in
proportion to the increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of
other local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the
munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into their
own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads, in the kingdom.
But, important as this work was, at its commencement, under the public
spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far from being all which was accomplished
or promoted by that patriotic nobleman. The following extract from a
memoir of the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for
January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this matter:—
“It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the
domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a
place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable
dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of
dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass
has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and
arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and
of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were
promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of
the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances,
into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving
animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded
them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into
light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the
slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of
subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which
those interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a
stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and
subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far
from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of
the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we,
indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable
monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at
Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the
characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at
Pen-isa-nant.”