future praise. Comfort me by the solemn assurance, that when the little
parlour in which I sit at this moment shall be reduced to a
worse-furnished box, I shall be read with honour by those who never knew
nor saw me, and whom I shall neither know nor see."--"Tom Jones," book
xiii., chap. I. Quoted by Gibbon, or his Editor.--ED.]
Whether I may merit any portion of literary fame, the publick will
judge. Whatever my ambition may be, I trust that my confidence is not
too great, nor my hopes too sanguine.
PREFACE
TO THE THIRD EDITION.
I now beg leave to present the world with a more correct edition of my
Account of Corsica. I return my sincere thanks to those who have taken
the trouble to point out several faults, with a spirit of candid
criticism. I hope they will not be offended that in one or two places I
have preserved my own reading, contrary to their opinion; as I never
would own that I am wrong, till I am convinced that it is so. My
orthography I have sufficiently explained; and although some pleasantry
has been shewn, I have not met with one argument against it.
* * * * *
While I have a proper sense of my obligations to those who have treated
me with candour, I do not forget that there have been others who have
chosen to treat me in an illiberal manner. The resentment of some has
evidently arisen from the grateful admiration which I have expressed of
Mr. Samuel Johnson. Over such, it is a triumph to me to assure them,
that I never cease to think of Mr. Johnson with the same warmth of
affection, and the same dignity of veneration. The resentment of others
it is more difficult to explain. For what should make men attack one who
never offended them, who has done his best to entertain them, and who is
engaged in the most generous cause? But I am told by those who have
gone before me in literature, that the attacks of such should rather
flatter me, than give me displeasure.
To those who have imagined themselves very witty in sneering at me for
being a Christian, I would recommend the serious study of Theology, and
I hope they will attain to the same comfort that I have, in the belief
of a Revelation by which a SAVIOUR is proclamed to the world, and "life
and immortality are clearly brought to light."
I am now to return thanks to My Lord Lyttelton, for being so good as to
allow me to enrich my book with one of his Lordship's letters to me.[79]
I was indeed most anxious that it should be published; as it contains an
eulogium on Pascal Paoli, equal to anything that I have found in the
writings of antiquity. Nor can I deny that I was very desirous to shew
the world that this worthy and respectable Nobleman, to whom genius,
learning and virtue owe so much, can amidst all his literary honours be
pleased with what I have been able to write.
[Footnote 79: I have not thought it needful to reprint this
letter.--ED.]
May I be permitted to say that the success of this book has exceeded my
warmest hopes. When I first ventured to send it into the world, I fairly
owned an ardent desire for literary fame. I have obtained my desire: and
whatever clouds may overcast my days, I can now walk here among the
rocks and woods of my ancestors, with an agreeable consciousness that I
have done something worthy.
AUCHINLECK, AYRSHIRE,
29 October, 1768.
THE
JOURNAL
OF A
TOUR
TO
CORSICA;
AND
MEMOIRS
OF
PASCAL PAOLI.
Olim meminisse juvabit.
VIRG.
THE
JOURNAL
OF A
TOUR TO CORSICA.
Having resolved to pass some years[80] abroad, for my instruction and
entertainment, I conceived a design of visiting the island of Corsica. I
wished for something more than just the common course of what is called
the tour of Europe; and Corsica occurred to me as a place which no body
else had seen, and where I should find what was to be seen no where
else, a people actually fighting for liberty, and forming themselves
from a poor inconsiderable oppressed nation, into a flourishing and
independent state.
[Footnote 80: Boswell had left England, on August 6th, 1763, for the
University of Utrecht, whither his father had sent him to study civil
law. On his return to Scotland, he was to put on the gown as a member of
the Faculty of Advocates. "Honest man!" he writes of his father to his
friend Temple, "he is now very happy; it is amazing to think how much he
has had at heart my pursuing the road of civil life." Boswell had once
hoped to enter the Guards. A few days later on he wrote: "My father has
allowed me £60 a quarter; that is not a great allowance, but with
economy I may live very well upon it, for Holland is a cheap country.
However I am determined not to be straightened, nor to encourage the
least narrowness of disposition as to saving money, but will draw upon
my father for any sums I find necessary." He did not give many months to
his legal studies at Utrecht. In the following year he set out on his
travels. He went through Germany and Switzerland to Italy. It was in the
autumn of 1765 that he visited Corsica. He returned to England through
France, and arrived in London in February, 1766.]
When I got into Switzerland, I went to see M. Rousseau. He was then
living in romantick retirement, from whence, perhaps, it had been better
for him never to have descended. While he was at a distance, his
singular eloquence filled our minds with high ideas of the wild
philosopher. When he came into the walks of men, we know alas! how much
these ideas suffered.[81]
[Footnote 81: Rousseau came to England in January, 1766. He had not been
here long before he quarrelled with Hume, who had been to him so true a
friend.--ED.]
He entertained me very courteously; for I was recommended to him by my
honoured friend the Earl Marischal,[82] with whom I had the happiness of
travelling through a part of Germany. I had heard that M. Rousseau had
some correspondence with the Corsicans, and had been desired to assist
them in forming their laws.[83] I told him my scheme of going to visit
them, after I had compleated my tour of Italy; and I insisted that he
should give me a letter of introduction. He immediately agreed to do so,
whenever I should acquaint him of my time of going thither; for he saw
that my enthusiasm for the brave islanders was as warm as his own.
[Footnote 82: George, tenth Earl Marischal. He had taken part in the
Jacobite rising of 1715. Later on he held high office in the Prussian
service. In 1759 his attainder was reversed, but he continued to live
abroad. In one of his letters to Madame de Boufflers he says, in
speaking of Rousseau, "Je lui avais fait un projet; mais en le disant un
château en Espagne, d'aller habiter une maison toute meublée que j'ai en
Ecosse; d'engager le bon David Hume de vivre avec nous."--"Hume's
Private Correspondence," page 43.--ED.]
[Footnote 83: See page 222.]
I accordingly wrote to him from Rome, in April 1765, that I had fixed
the month of September for my Corsican expedition, and therefore begged
of him to send me the letter of introduction, which if he refused, I
should certainly go without it, and probably be hanged as a spy. So let
him answer for the consequences.
The wild philosopher was a man of his word; and on my arrival at
Florence in August I received the following letter.
"A MONSIEUR, MONSIEUR BOSWELL, &c.
"A MOTIERS le 30 May, 1765.
"La crise orageuse ou je me trouve, Monsieur, depuis votre depart d'ici,
m'a oté le tems de repondre à votre premiére lettre, et me laisse à
peine celui de repondre en peu de mots à la seconde. Pour m'en tenir à
ce qui presse pour le moment, savoir la recommendation que vous desirez
en Corse; puisque vous avez le desir de visiter ces braves insulaires,
vous pourrez vous informer à Bastia, de M. Buttafoco capitaine au
Regiment Royal Italien; il a sa maison à Vescovado, ou il se tient assez
souvent. C'est un très galant homme, qui a des connoissances et de
l'esprit; il suffira de lui montrer cette lettre, et je suis sur qu'il
vous recevra bien, et contribuera à vous faire voir l'isle et ses
habitans avec satisfaction. Si vous ne trouvez pas M. Buttafoco, et que
vous vouliez aller tout droit à M. Pascal de Paoli general de la nation,
vous pouvez egalement lui montrer cette lettre, et je suis sur,
connoissant la noblesse de son caractére, que vous serez très-content de
son accueil: vous pourrez lui dire même que vous étes aimé de Mylord
Mareschal d'Ecosse, et que Mylord Mareschal est un des plus zelés
partizans de la nation Corse. Au reste vouz n'avez besoin d'autre
recommendation près de ces Messieurs que votre propre mérite, la nation
Corse etant naturellement si accueillante et si hospitaliére, que tous
les etrangers y sont bien venus et caressés.
* * * * *
"Bons et heureux voyages, santé, gaieté et promt retour. Je vous
embrasse, Monsieur, de tout mon coeur."
"J.J. ROUSSEAU."
"TO MR. BOSWELL, &c.
"MOTIERS, the 30 May 1765.
"The stormy crisis in which I have found myself since your departure
from this, has not allowed me any leisure to answer your first letter,
and hardly allows me leisure to reply in a few words to your second. To
confine myself to what is immediately pressing, the recommendation which
you ask for Corsica; since you have a desire to visit those brave
islanders, you may enquire at Bastia for M. Buttafoco, captain of the
Royal Italian Regiment; his house is at Vescovado, where he resides
pretty often. He is a very worthy man, and has both knowledge and
genius; it will be sufficient to shew him this letter, and I am sure he
will receive you well, and will contribute to let you see the island and
its inhabitants with satisfaction. If you do not find M. Buttafoco, and
will go directly to M. Pascal Paoli General of the nation, you may in
the same manner shew him this letter, and as I know the nobleness of his
character, I am sure you will be very well pleased at your reception.
You may even tell him that you are liked by My Lord Marischal of
Scotland, and that My Lord Marischal is one of the most zealous
partisans of the Corsican nation. You need no other recommendation to
these gentlemen but your own merit, the Corsicans being naturally so
courteous and hospitable, that all strangers who come among them, are
made welcome and caressed.
* * * * *
"I wish you agreeable and fortunate travels, health, gaiety, and a
speedy return. I embrace you Sir with all my heart
"JOHN JAMES ROUSSEAU."
Furnished with these credentials, I was impatient to be with the
illustrious Chief. The charms of sweet Siena detained me longer than
they should have done. I required the hardy air of Corsica to brace me,
after the delights of Tuscany.
I recollect with astonishment how little the real state of Corsica was
known, even by those who had good access to know it. An officer of rank
in the British navy, who had been in several ports of the island, told
me that I run the risque of my life in going among these barbarians;
for, that his surgeon's mate went ashore to take the diversion of
shooting, and every moment was alarmed by some of the natives, who
started from the bushes with loaded guns, and if he had not been
protected by Corsican guides, would have certainly blown out his brains.
Nay at Leghorn, which is within a day's sailing of Corsica, and has a
constant intercourse with it, I found people who dissuaded me from going
thither, because it might be dangerous.
I was however under no apprehension in going to Corsica. Count Rivarola
the Sardinian consul, who is himself a Corsican, assuring me that the
island was then in a very civilized state; and besides, that in the
rudest times no Corsican would ever attack a stranger. The Count was so
good as to give me most obliging letters to many people in the island. I
had now been in several foreign countries. I had found that I was able
to accommodate myself to my fellow-creatures of different languages and
sentiments. I did not fear that it would be a difficult task for me to
make myself easy with the plain and generous Corsicans.
The only danger I saw was, that I might be taken by some of the Barbary
Corsairs, and have a tryal of slavery among the Turks at Algiers.[84] I
spoke of it to Commodore Harrison, who commanded the British squadron in
the Mediterranean, and was then lying with his ship the Centurion in the
bay of Leghorn. He assured me, that if the Turks did take me, they
should not keep me long; but in order to prevent it, he was so good as
to grant me a very ample and particular passport; and as it could be of
no use if I did not meet the Corsairs, he said very pleasantly when he
gave it me, "I hope, Sir, it shall be of no use to you."
[Footnote 84: In the "Gentleman's Magazine" for 1750 (vol. xx., p. 42),
we read, "The Phoenix, Captain Carberry, of Bristol, was taken on
Christmas eve by an Algerine corsair off the rock of Lisbon, on pretence
that his pass was not good, and ordered for Algiers with an officer and
six other Turks; but in the passage Captain Carberry with three English
sailors and a boy recovered the vessel, after flinging the Turkish
officer and two other Turks overboard, and brought it with the Turkish
sailors prisoners to Bristol." In the same year the English consul at
Algiers wrote to say that some Algerine Corsairs had taken five English
vessels because their passes were not good. The consul had complained to
the Dey, "who said that he would give such orders that nothing of this
sort should happen again, and then swore by his prophet that if any one
controverted those orders he would take his head." The Dey had also
seized a packet-boat of the British Crown. Commodore Keppel was sent to
demand restitution. The Dey replied, "We are disposed to give full
satisfaction to the King and the British nation for anything that may
happen amiss hereafter; but as to what is past, if they have had any
cause to complain, they must think no more of it, and bury it in
oblivion." The packet-boat, he maintained, had not a proper Algerine
pass, and therefore had been lawfully seized. By a treaty made with the
Dey in the following year, the Commodore "settled all differences by
waiving the restitution of the money and effects taken from on board the
packet-boat on condition that his Majesty's packet-boats shall never be
obliged to carry Algerine passports," &c. Whatever protection the
English vessels may have had the Turkish corsairs continued to plunder
the ships of most other nations. In the "Gentleman's Magazine" for 1785,
(vol. lv., p. 830) we read, "The Algerines still continue their piracies
in the Mediterranean. They even extend their captures to the Atlantic
Ocean, and have struck the American traders with terror."--ED.]
Before I left Leghorn, I could observe, that my tour was looked upon by
the Italian politicians in a very serious light, as if truly I had a
commission from my Court, to negociate a treaty with the Corsicans. The
more I disclaimed any such thing, the more they persevered in affirming
it; and I was considered as a very close young man. I therefore just
allowed them to make a minister of me, till time should undeceive
them.[85]
[Footnote 85: Compare Scribe's Comedy of "_Le Diplomate_."--ED.]
I sailed from Leghorn in a Tuscan vessel, which was going over to Capo
Corso for wine. I preferred this to a vessel going to Bastia, because,
as I did not know how the French general was affected towards the
Corsicans, I was afraid that he might not permit me to go forward to
Paoli. I therefore resolved to land on the territories of the nation,
and after I had been with the illustrious Chief, to pay my respects to
the French if I should find it safe.
Though from Leghorn to Corsica is usually but one day's sailing, there
was so dead a calm that it took us two days. The first day was the most
tedious. However there were two or three Corsicans aboard, and one of
them played on the Citra, which amused me a good deal. At sun-set all
the people in the ship sung the Ave Maria, with great devotion and some
melody. It was pleasing to enter into the spirit of their religion, and
hear them offering up their evening orisons.
The second day we became better acquainted, and more lively and
chearful. The worthy Corsicans thought it was proper to give a moral
lesson to a young traveller just come from Italy. They told me that in
their country I should be treated with the greatest hospitality; but if
I attempted to debauch any of their women, I might lay my account with
instant death.
I employed myself several hours in rowing, which gave me great spirits.
I relished fully my approach to the island, which had acquired an
unusual grandeur in my imagination. As long as I can remember any thing,
I have heard of "The malecontents of Corsica, with Paoli at their head."
It was a curious thought that I was just going to see them.
About seven o'clock at night, we landed safely in the harbour of
Centuri. I learnt that Signor Giaccomini of this place, to whom I was
recommended by Count Rivarola, was just dead. He had made a handsome
fortune in the East Indies; and having had a remarkable warmth in the
cause of liberty during his whole life, he shewed it in the strongest
manner in his last will. He bequeathed a considerable sum of money, and
some pieces of ordinance, to the nation. He also left it in charge to
his heir, to live in Corsica, and be firm in the patriotick interest;
and if ever the island should again be reduced under the power of the
Genoese, he ordered him to retire with all his effects to Leghorn. Upon
these conditions only could his heir enjoy his estate.
I was directed to the house of Signor Giaccomini's cousin, Signor
Antonio Antonetti at Morsiglia, about a mile up the country. The
prospect of the mountains covered with vines and olives, was extremely
agreeable; and the odour of the myrtle and other aromatick shrubs and
flowers that grew all around me, was very refreshing. As I walked along,
I often saw Corsican peasants come suddenly out from the covert; and as
they were all armed, I saw how the frightened imagination of the
surgeon's mate had raised up so many assassins. Even the man who carried
my baggage was armed, and had I been timorous might have alarmed me. But
he and I were very good company to each other. As it grew dusky, I
repeated to myself these lines from a fine passage in Ariosto.
"E pur per selve oscure e calli obliqui
Insieme van senza, sospetto aversi."
ARIOST. Canto I.
"Together through dark woods and winding ways
They walk, nor on their hearts suspicion preys."
I delivered Signor Antonetti the letter for his deceased cousin. He read
it, and received me with unaffected cordiality, making an apology for my
frugal entertainment, but assuring me of a hearty welcome. His true
kindly hospitality was also shewn in taking care of my servant, an
honest Swiss, who loved to eat and drink well.[86]
[Footnote 86: Like master, like man.--ED.]
I had formed a strange notion that I should see every thing in Corsica
totally different from what I had seen in any other country.[87] I was
therefore much surprised to find Signor Antonetti's house quite an
Italian one, with very good furniture, prints, and copies of some of the
famous pictures. In particular, I was struck to find here a small copy
from Raphael, of St. Michael and the Dragon. There was no necessity for
its being well done. To see the thing at all was what surprised me.
[Footnote 87: See Appendix B for a curious custom described by
Boswell.--ED.]
Signor Antonetti gave me an excellent light repast, and a very good bed.
He spoke with great strength of the patriotick cause, and with great
veneration of the General. I was quite easy, and liked much the opening
of my Corsican tour.
The next day, being Sunday, it rained very hard; and I must observe that
the Corsicans with all their resolution, are afraid of bad weather, to a
degree of effeminacy. I got indeed a drole but a just enough account of
this, from one of them. "Sir," said he, "if you were as poor as a
Corsican, and had but one coat, so as that after being wet, you could
not put on dry cloaths, you would be afraid too."[88] Signor Antonetti
would not allow me to set out while it rained, for, said he, "Quando si
trova fuori, patienza; ma di andare fuori è cattivo. If a man finds
himself abroad, there is no help for it. But to go deliberately out, is
too much."
[Footnote 88: A friend of mine, driving last September from Tunis to
Utica, was overtaken by a storm of rain. The driver at once got down
from the box and seated himself on the ground under the carriage. By way
of excuse he said that he had but one coat.--ED.]
When the day grew a little better, I accompanied Signor Antonetti and
his family, to hear mass in the parish church, a very pretty little
building, about half a quarter of a mile off.
Signor Antonetti's parish priest was to preach to us, at which I was
much pleased, being very curious to hear a Corsican sermon.
Our priest did very well. His text was in the Psalms. "Descendunt ad
infernum viventes. They go down alive into the pit."
After endeavouring to move our passions with a description of the
horrours of hell, he told us "Saint Catherine of Siena wished to be laid
on the mouth of this dreadful pit, that she might stop it up, so as no
more unhappy souls should fall into it. I confess, my brethren, I have
not the zeal of holy Saint Catherine. But I do what I can; I warn you
how to avoid it." He then gave us some good practical advices and
concluded.
The weather being now cleared up, I took leave of the worthy gentleman
to whom I had been a guest. He gave me a letter to Signor Damiano Tomasi
Padre del Commune at Pino, the next village. I got a man with an ass to
carry my baggage. But such a road I never saw. It was absolutely
scrambling along the face of a rock overhanging the sea, upon a path
sometimes not above a foot broad. I thought the ass rather retarded me;
so I prevailed with the man to take my portmanteau and other things on
his back.
Had I formed my opinion of Corsica from what I saw this morning, I might
have been in as bad humour with it, as Seneca was, whose reflections in
prose are not inferiour to his epigrams. "Quid tam nudum inveniri
potest, quid tam abruptum undique quam hoc saxum? quid ad copias
respicienti jejunius? quid ad homines immansuetius? quid ad ipsum loci
situm horridius? Plures tamen hîc peregrini quam cives consistunt? usque
eò ergo commutatio ipsa locorum gravis non est, ut hic quoque locus a
patria quosdam abduxerit.[89] What can be found so bare, what so rugged
all around as this rock? what more barren of provisions? what more rude
as to its inhabitants? what in the very situation of the place more
horrible? what in climate more intemperate? yet there are more
foreigners than natives here. So far then is a change of place from
being disagreeable, that even this place hath brought some people away
from their country."
[Footnote 89: Seneca de Consolatione.]
At Pino I was surprised to find myself met by some brisk young fellows
drest like English sailors, and speaking English tolerably well. They
had been often with cargoes of wine at Leghorn, where they had picked up
what they knew of our language, and taken clothes in part of payment for
some of their merchandise.
I was cordially entertained at Signor Tomasi's. Throughout all Corsica,
except in garrison towns, there is hardly an inn. I met with a single
one, about eight miles from Corte. Before I was accustomed to the
Corsican hospitality, I sometimes forgot myself, and imagining I was in
a publick house, called for what I wanted, with the tone which one uses
in calling to the waiters at a tavern. I did so at Pino, asking for a
variety of things at once; when Signora Tomasi, perceiving my mistake,
looked in my face and smiled, saying with much calmness and good-nature,
"Una cosa dopo un altra, Signore. One thing after another, Sir."
In writing this Journal, I shall not tire my readers with relating the
occurrences of each particular day. It will be much more agreeable to
them, to have a free and continued account of what I saw or heard, most
worthy of observation.
For some time, I had very curious travelling, mostly on foot, and
attended by a couple of stout women, who carried my baggage upon their
heads. Every time that I prepared to set out from a village, I could not
help laughing, to see the good people eager to have my equipage in
order, and roaring out, "Le Donne, Le Donne. The Women, The Women."
I had full leisure and the best opportunities to observe every thing, in
my progress through the island. I was lodged sometimes in private
houses, sometimes in convents, being always well recommended from place
to place. The first convent in which I lay, was at Canari. It appeared a
little odd at first. But I soon learnt to repair to my dormitory as
naturally as if I had been a friar for seven years.