their pious inhabitants. The religious who devoutly endeavour to "walk
with GOD," are often treated with raillery by those whom pleasure or
business prevents from thinking of future and more exalted objects. A
little experience of the serenity and peace of mind to be found in
convents, would be of use to temper the fire of men of the world.
At Patrimonio I found the seat of a provincial magistracy. The chief
judge was there, and entertained me very well. Upon my arrival, the
captain of the guard came out, and demanded who I was? I replied
"Inglese English." He looked at me seriously, and then said in a tone
between regret and upbraiding, "Inglese, c'erano i nostri amici; ma non
le sono più. The English. They were once our friends; but they are so no
more." I felt for my country, and was abashed before this honest
soldier.
At Oletta I visited Count Nicholas Rivarola, brother to my friend at
Leghorn. He received me with great kindness, and did every thing in his
power to make me easy. I found here a Corsican who thought better of the
British than the captain of the guard at Patrimonio. He talked of our
bombarding San Fiorenzo,[90] in favour of the patriots, and willingly
gave me his horse for the afternoon, which he said he would not have
done to a man of any other nation.
[Footnote 90: In 1745. See Introduction. Page 110.--ED.]
When I came to Morato, I had the pleasure of being made acquainted with
Signor Barbaggi, who is married to the niece of Paoli. I found him to be
a sensible, intelligent, well-bred man. The mint of Corsica was in his
house. I got specimens of their different kinds of money in silver and
copper, and was told that they hoped in a year or two, to strike some
gold coins. Signor Barbaggi's house was repairing, so I was lodged in
the convent. But in the morning returned to breakfast, and had
chocolate; and at dinner we had no less than twelve well-drest dishes,
served on Dresden china, with a desert, different sorts of wine and a
liqueur, all the produce of Corsica. Signor Barbaggi was frequently
repeating to me, that the Corsicans inhabited a rude uncultivated
country, and that they lived like Spartans. I begged leave to ask him in
what country he could show me greater luxury than I had seen in his
house; and I said I should certainly tell wherever I went, what tables
the Corsicans kept, notwithstanding their pretensions to poverty and
temperance. A good deal of pleasantry passed upon this. His lady was a
genteel woman, and appeared to be agreeable, though very reserved.
From Morato to Corte, I travelled through a wild mountainous rocky
country, diversified with some large valleys. I got little beasts for me
and my servant, sometimes horses, but oftener mules or asses. We had no
bridles, but cords fixed round their necks, with which we managed them
as well as we could.
At Corte I waited upon the supreme council, to one of whom, Signor
Boccociampe, I had a letter from Signor Barbaggi. I was very politely
received, and was conducted to the Franciscan convent, where I got the
apartment of Paoli, who was then some days' journey beyond the
mountains, holding a court of syndicato[91] at a village called
Sollacarò.
[Footnote 91: "The Syndicatori make a tour through the different
provinces, as our judges in Britain go the circuits. They hear
complaints against the different magistrates."--Boswell's "Account of
Corsica," p. 153.--ED.]
As the General resided for some time in this convent, the fathers made a
better appearance than any I saw in the island. I was principally
attended by the Priour, a resolute divine, who had formerly been in the
army, and by Padre Giulio, a man of much address, who still favours me
with his correspondence.
These fathers have a good vineyard and an excellent garden. They have
between 30 and 40 bee-hives in long wooden cases or trunks of trees,
with a covering of the bark of the cork tree. When they want honey, they
burn a little juniper wood, the smoak of which makes the bees retire.
They then take an iron instrument with a sharp-edged crook at one end of
it, and bring out the greatest part of the honey-comb, leaving only a
little for the bees, who work the case full again. By taking the honey
in this way, they never kill a bee. They seemed much at their ease,
living in peace and plenty. I often joked them with the text which is
applied to their order, "Nihil habentes et omnia possidentes. Having
nothing, and yet possessing all things."
I went to the choir with them. The service was conducted with propriety,
and Padre Giulio played on the organ. On the great altar of their church
is a tabernacle carved in wood by a Religious. It is a piece of
exquisite workmanship. A Genoese gentleman offered to give them one in
silver for it; but they would not make the exchange.
These fathers have no library worth mentioning; but their convent is
large and well built. I looked about with great attention, to see if I
could find any inscriptions; but the only one I found was upon a
certain useful edifice.
"Sine necessitate huc non intrate,
Quia necessaria sumus."
A studied, rhiming, Latin conceit marked upon such a place was truly
ludicrous.
I chose to stop a while at Corte, to repose myself after my fatigues,
and to see every thing about the capital of Corsica.
The morning after my arrival here, three French deserters desired to
speak with me. The foolish fellows had taken it into their heads, that I
was come to raise recruits for Scotland, and so they begged to have the
honour of going along with me; I suppose with intention to have the
honour of running off from me, as they had done from their own
regiments.
I received many civilities at Corte from Signor Boccociampe, and from
Signor Massesi the Great Chancellor, whose son Signor Luigi a young
gentleman of much vivacity, and natural politeness, was so good as to
attend me constantly as my conductour. I used to call him my governour.
I liked him much, for as he had never been out of the island, his ideas
were entirely Corsican.
Such of the members of the supreme council as were in residence during
my stay at Corte, I found to be solid and sagacious, men of penetration
and ability, well calculated to assist the General in forming his
political plans, and in turning to the best advantage, the violence and
enterprise of the people.
The university was not then sitting, so I could only see the rooms,
which were shewn me by the Abbé Valentini, procuratour of the
university. The professours were all absent except one Capuchin father
whom I visited at his convent. It is a tolerable building, with a pretty
large collection of books. There is in the church here a tabernacle
carved in wood, in the manner of that at the Franciscans', but much
inferiour to it.
I went up to the castle of Corte. The commandant very civilly shewed me
every part of it. As I wished to see all things in Corsica, I desired to
see even the unhappy criminals.[92] There were then three in the castle,
a man for the murder of his wife, a married lady who had hired one of
her servants to strangle a woman of whom she was jealous, and the
servant who had actually perpetrated this barbarous action. They were
brought out from their cells, that I might talk with them. The murderer
of his wife had a stupid hardened appearance, and told me he did it at
the instigation of the devil. The servant was a poor despicable wretch.
He had at first accused his mistress, but was afterwards prevailed with
to deny his accusation, upon which he was put to the torture,[93] by
having lighted matches held between his fingers. This made him return to
what he had formerly said, so as to be a strong evidence against his
mistress. His hands were so miserably scorched, that he was a piteous
object. I asked him why he had committed such a crime, he said, "Perche
era senza spirito. Because I was without understanding." The lady seemed
of a bold and resolute spirit. She spoke to me with great firmness, and
denied her guilt, saying with a contemptuous smile, as she pointed to
her servant, "They can force that creature to say what they please."
[Footnote 92: Boswell was too fond of seeing criminals and hangmen. He
was frequently present at executions. In his "Life of Johnson" he
records, under date of June 23rd, 1784, "I visited Johnson in the
morning, after having been present at the shocking sight of fifteen men
executed before Newgate." He once persuaded Sir Joshua Reynolds to
accompany him, and they recognised among the sufferers a former servant
of Mrs. Thrale's. He describes Mr. Akerman, the Keeper of Newgate, as
his esteemed friend. According to Mr. Croker, he defended his taste in a
paper he wrote for the "London Magazine," "as a natural and irresistible
impulse."--ED.]
[Footnote 93: So far as I have been able to ascertain, this passage,
this great blot on Paoli and the Corsican patriots, excited no attention
in England. But the Inquisition was still at its hateful work in many
countries, and men's minds were used to cruelties. Torture was still
employed in capital cases to force confession even in Holland and
France.--ED.]
The hangman of Corsica was a great curiosity. Being held in the utmost
detestation, he durst not live like another inhabitant of the island. He
was obliged to take refuge in the castle, and there he was kept in a
little corner turret, where he had just room for a miserable bed, and a
little bit of fire to dress such victuals for himself as were sufficient
to keep him alive, for nobody would have any intercourse with him, but
all turned their backs upon him. I went up and looked at him. And a more
dirty rueful spectacle I never beheld. He seemed sensible of his
situation, and held down his head like an abhorred outcast.
It was a long time before they could get a hangman in Corsica, so that
the punishment of the gallows was hardly known, all their criminals
being shot.[94] At last this creature whom I saw, who is a Sicilian,
came with a message to Paoli. The General who has a wonderful talent for
physiognomy, on seeing the man, said immediately to some of the people
about him, "Ecco il boia. Behold our hangman." He gave orders to ask the
man if he would accept of the office, and his answer was, "My
grandfather was a hangman, my father was a hangman. I have been a
hangman myself, and am willing to continue so." He was therefore
immediately put into office, and the ignominious death dispensed by his
hands, had more effect than twenty executions by fire arms.
[Footnote 94: "Their dignities, and a' that," are, it seems, to be found
even among executioners. The man who shoots scorns the man who hangs. It
would be an interesting inquiry how the headsman ranks.--ED.]
It is remarkable that no Corsican would upon any account consent to be
hangman. Not the greatest criminals, who might have had their lives upon
that condition. Even the wretch, who for a paultry hire, had strangled a
woman, would rather submit to death, than do the same action, as the
executioner of the law.[95]
[Footnote 95: See, however, page 201.--ED.]
When I had seen every thing about Corte, I prepared for my journey over
the mountains, that I might be with Paoli. The night before I set out, I
recollected that I had forgotten to get a passport, which, in the
present situation of Corsica, is still a necessary precaution. After
supper therefore the Priour walked with me to Corte, to the house of the
Great Chancellor, who ordered the passport to be made out immediately,
and while his secretary was writing it, entertained me by reading to me
some of the minutes of the general consulta. When the passport was
finished, and ready to have the seal put to it, I was much pleased with
a beautiful, simple incident. The Chancellor desired a little boy who
was playing in the room by us, to run to his mother, and bring the great
seal of the kingdom. I thought myself sitting in the house of a
Cincinnatus.
Next morning I set out in very good order, having excellent mules, and
active clever Corsican guides. The worthy fathers of the convent who
treated me in the kindest manner while I was their guest, would also
give me some provisions for my journey; so they put up a gourd of their
best wine, and some delicious pomegranates. My Corsican guides appeared
so hearty, that I often got down and walked along with them, doing just
what I saw them do. When we grew hungry, we threw stones among the thick
branches of the chestnut trees which over-shadowed us, and in that
manner we brought down a shower of chestnuts with which we filled our
pockets, and went on eating them with great relish; and when this made
us thirsty, we lay down by the side of the first brook, put our mouths
to the stream, and drank sufficiently. It was just being for a little
while, one of the "prisca gens mortalium, the primitive race of men,"
who ran about in the woods eating acorns and drinking water.
While I stopped to refresh my mules at a little village, the inhabitants
came crouding about me as an ambassadour going to their General. When
they were informed of my country, a strong black fellow among them
said, "Inglese! sono barbari; non credono in Dio grande. English! they
are barbarians; they don't believe in the great GOD." I told him,
"Excuse me Sir. We do believe in GOD, and in Jesus Christ too." "Um,"
said he, "e nel Papa? and in the Pope?" "No." "E perche? And why?" This
was a puzzling question in these circumstances; for there was a great
audience to the controversy. I thought I would try a method of my own,
and very gravely replied, "Perche siamo troppo lontani. Because we are
too far off."[96] A very new argument against the universal
infallibility of the Pope. It took however; for my opponent mused a
while, and then said, "Troppo lontano! La Sicilia è tanto lontana che
l'Inghilterra; e in Sicilia si credono nel Papa. Too far off! Why Sicily
is as far off as England. Yet in Sicily they believe in the Pope." "O,"
said I "noi siamo dieci volte più lontani che la Sicilia! We are ten
times farther off than Sicily." "Aha!" said he; and seemed quite
satisfied. In this manner I got off very well. I question much whether
any of the learned reasonings of our protestant divines would have had
so good an effect.
[Footnote 96: According to Macaulay ("Essays," vol. i., p. 378), "wit
was utterly wanting to Boswell."--ED.]
My journey over the mountains was very entertaining. I past some immense
ridges and vast woods. I was in great health and spirits, and fully able
to enter into the ideas of the brave rude men whom I found in all
quarters.
At Bastelica where there is a stately spirited race of people, I had a
large company to attend me in the convent. I liked to see their natural
frankness and ease;[97] for why should men be afraid of their own
species? They just came in making an easy bow, placed themselves round
the room where I was sitting, rested themselves on their muskets, and
immediately entered into conversation with me. They talked very
feelingly of the miseries that their country had endured, and complained
that they were still but in a state of poverty. I happened at that time
to have an unusual flow of spirits; and as one who finds himself amongst
utter strangers in a distant country has no timidity, I harangued the
men of Bastelica with great fluency. I expatiated on the bravery of the
Corsicans, by which they had purchased liberty, the most valuable of all
possessions, and rendered themselves glorious over all Europe. Their
poverty, I told them, might be remedied by a proper cultivation of their
island, and by engaging a little in commerce. But I bid them remember,
that they were much happier in their present state than in a state of
refinement and vice, and that therefore they should beware of
luxury.[98]
[Footnote 97: "For my part I like very well to hear honest Goldsmith
talk away carelessly." Boswell, as reported by himself. "Life of
Johnson." Date of April 11, 1772.--ED.]
[Footnote 98: "I give admirable dinners, and good claret; and the moment
I go abroad again, I set up my chariot."--Boswell, in a letter to
Temple, May 14, 1768.--ED.]
What I said had the good fortune to touch them, and several of them
repeated the same sentiments much better than I could do. They all
expressed their strong attachment to Paoli, and called out in one voice
that they were all at his command. I could with pleasure have passed a
long time here.
At Ornano I saw the ruins of the seat where the great Sampiero[99] had
his residence. They were a droll enough society of monks in the convent
at Ornano. When I told them that I was an Englishman, "Aye, aye," said
one of them, "as was well observed by a reverend bishop, when talking of
your pretended reformation, 'Angli olim angeli nunc diaboli. The
English, formerly angels now devils.'" I looked upon this as an honest
effusion of spiritual zeal. The Fathers took good care of me in
temporals.
[Footnote 99: Sampiero had been the leader of a revolt which broke out
in 1564. He was assassinated three years later.--ED.]
When I at last came within sight of Sollacarò, where Paoli was, I could
not help being under considerable anxiety. My ideas of him had been
greatly heightened by the conversations I had held with all sorts of
people in the island, they having represented him to me as something
above humanity. I had the strongest desire to see so exalted a
character; but I feared that I should be unable to give a proper account
why I had presumed to trouble him with a visit, and that I should sink
to nothing before him. I almost wished yet to go back without seeing
him.[100] These workings of sensibility employed my mind till I rode
through the village and came up to the house where he was lodged.
[Footnote 100: Compare Boswell's introduction to Johnson.--ED.]
Leaving my servant with my guides, I past through the guards, and was
met by some of the General's people, who conducted me into an
antichamber, where were several gentlemen in waiting. Signor Boccociampe
had notified my arrival, and I was shewn into Paoli's room. I found him
alone, and was struck with his appearance. He is tall, strong, and well
made; of a fair complexion, a sensible, free, and open countenance, and
a manly and noble carriage. He was then in his fortieth year. He was
drest in green and gold. He used to wear the common Corsican habit, but
on the arrival of the French he thought a little external elegance might
be of use to make the government appear in a more respectable light.
He asked me what were my commands for him. I presented him a letter from
Count Rivarola, and when he had read it, I shewed him my letter from
Rousseau. He was polite, but very reserved. I had stood in the presence
of many a prince, but I never had such a trial as in the presence of
Paoli. I have already said that he is a great physiognomist. In
consequence of his being in continual danger from treachery and
assassination, he has formed a habit of studiously observing every new
face. For ten minutes we walked backwards and forwards through the room,
hardly saying a word, while he looked at me, with a steadfast, keen and
penetrating eye, as if he searched my very soul.
This interview was for a while very severe upon me. I was much relieved
when his reserve wore off, and he began to speak more. I then ventured
to address him with this compliment to the Corsicans. "Sir, I am upon my
travels, and have lately visited Rome. I am come from seeing the ruins
of one brave and free people; I now see the rise of another."
He received my compliment very graciously; but observed that the
Corsicans had no chance of being like the Romans, a great conquering
nation, who should extend its empire over half the globe. Their
situation, and the modern political systems, rendered this impossible.
"But," said he, "Corsica may be a very happy country."
He expressed a high admiration of M. Rousseau, whom Signor Buttafoco had
invited to Corsica, to aid the nation in forming its laws.
It seems M. de Voltaire had reported, in his rallying manner, that the
invitation was merely a trick which he had put upon Rousseau. Paoli told
me that when he understood this, he himself wrote to Rousseau, enforcing
the invitation. Of this affair I shall give a full account in an after
part of my Journal.[101]
[Footnote 101: See page 222.--ED.]
Some of the nobles who attended him came into the room, and in a little
we were told that dinner was served up. The General did me the honour to
place me next him. He had a table of fifteen or sixteen covers, having
always a good many of the principal men of the island with him. He had
an Italian cook who had been long in France; but he chose to have a few
plain substantial dishes, avoiding every kind of luxury, and drinking no
foreign wine.
I felt myself under some constraint in such a circle of heroes. The
General talked a great deal on history and on literature. I soon
perceived that he was a fine classical scholar, that his mind was
enriched with a variety of knowledge, and that his conversation at meals
was instructive and entertaining. Before dinner he had spoken French. He
now spoke Italian, in which he is very eloquent.
We retired to another room to drink coffee. My timidity wore off. I no
longer anxiously thought of myself; my whole attention was employed in
listening to the illustrious commander of a nation.
He recommended me to the care of the Abbé Rostini, who had lived many
years in France. Signor Colonna, the lord of the manor here being from
home, his house was assigned for me to live in. I was left by myself
till near supper time, when I returned to the General, whose
conversation improved upon me, as did the society of those about him,
with whom I gradually formed an acquaintance.
Every day I felt myself happier. Particular marks of attention were
shewn me as a subject of Great Britain, the report of which went over to
Italy, and confirmed the conjectures that I was really an envoy. In the
morning I had my chocolate served up upon a silver salver adorned with
the arms of Corsica. I dined and supped constantly with the General. I
was visited by all the nobility, and whenever I chose to make a little
tour, I was attended by a party of guards. I begged of the General not
to treat me with so much ceremony; but he insisted upon it.
One day when I rode out I was mounted on Paoli's own horse, with rich
furniture of crimson velvet, with broad gold lace, and had my guards
marching along with me.[102] I allowed myself to indulge a momentary
pride in this parade, as I was curious to experience what could really
be the pleasure of state and distinction with which mankind are so
strangely intoxicated.
[Footnote 102: "Then took Haman the apparel and the horse, and arrayed
Mordecai, and brought him on horseback through the street of the city,
and proclaimed before him, 'Thus shall it be done unto the man whom the
king delighteth to honour.'"--Book of Esther, c. vi., v. 11.--ED.]
When I returned to the continent after all this greatness, I used to
joke with my acquaintance, and tell them that I could not bear to live
with them, for they did not treat me with a proper respect.
My time passed here in the most agreeable manner. I enjoyed a sort of
luxury of noble sentiment. Paoli became more affable with me. I made
myself known to him.[103] I forgot the great distance between us, and
had every day some hours of private conversation with him.
[Footnote 103: "Finding him (Johnson) in a placid humour, and wishing to
avail myself of the opportunity which I fortunately had of consulting a
sage, to hear whose wisdom, I conceived, in the ardour of youthful
imagination, that men filled with a noble enthusiasm for intellectual
improvement would gladly have resorted from distant lands, I opened my
mind to him ingenuously, and gave him a little sketch of my life, to
which he was pleased to listen with great attention."--Boswell's
"Johnson." Date of June 13, 1763.--ED.]
From my first setting out on this tour, I wrote down every night what I
had observed during the day, throwing together a great deal, that I
might afterwards make a selection at leisure.
Of these particulars, the most valuable to my readers, as well as to
myself, must surely be the memoirs and remarkable sayings of Paoli,
which I am proud to record.