Interior Finish
=58. Lathing; Grounds.=--Lathing is usually considered a part
of the plasterer's work but the carpenter is expected to prepare the
grounds and place the necessary furrings. The success of the plasterer
depends in no small degree upon the way the carpenter does this work.
If corners are not firmly constructed, cracks will be sure to appear in
the plastering.
In lathing, joints must be broken upon different studding every dozen
lath, and joints are not to be allowed about a door or window opening
where their presence would weaken the wall; such as short lath nailed
at one end only. Neither are lath to be placed at right angles to the
usual run of lath on the wall because uneven shrinkage would cause the
plaster to crack.
That the plasterer may make walls true and of uniform thickness about
door and window openings and along the floor, grounds are placed as in
Fig. 118. Such grounds are of stock if 13/16" × 1" or 2" nailed firmly
to the studding. Grounds for base should be placed so that the wall may
be lathed and plastered entirely to the floor that cold and vermin may
be kept out.
[Illustration: Fig. 118. Plaster Grounds]
[Illustration: Fig. 119. Detail of Partition Wall]
For grounds on external corners in a room, metallic corners especially
manufactured for this purpose are recommended.
The beginner will be surprised at the numberless places requiring
attention in preparing for the plasterer. He should visualize every
corner and angle as he thinks the plasterer or lather must have it.
=59. Interior Walls.=--Fig. 119 illustrates the construction of
a corner of an interior wall which is to be recommended highly for
strength. All door studding are to be doubled for strength, also window
openings of unusual size.
Interior door jambs are not usually placed until after plastering has
been done. Thresholds are no longer used with interior openings where
both rooms are to be heated.
Joists doubled to support partitions should be spread sufficiently to
allow furnace pipes to enter, and still provide bearing for partition
studs.
Badly crooked studs in a partition wall may be straightened by sawing
a kerf on the hollow side, almost thru, and wedging with a shingle
point. A cleat nailed to the side of the stud after wedging will give
the original strength. Straight studs should be selected for use about
openings.
In setting studs for interior door jambs where studs are to be doubled
on the inside, add to the width of door enough to make the outer edges
of the casings center on studs, and double inside these, as in figuring
openings between studs for outside door jambs. Make allowance for the
extra thickness of stud on each side. For height of opening, where no
threshold is to be used, add 2½" to the height of the door. Remember
that enough more must be cut from vertical studs to allow for thickness
of header.
=60. Stair Building; Porch Steps.=--Stair building is an art
in itself and as such belongs to millwork rather than to carpentry.
However, the carpenter must know the principles of simple stair lay-out
and construction for he is called upon to construct porch steps,
basement and often attic stairs. In smaller communities he may also
have to build the main stair. Fig. 120 illustrates three common types
of stair.
In planning a stair, the first requisite is to know its rise and run,
Fig. 121. The rise in this case is the vertical distance measured from
the top of the first floor to the top of the second floor. The run is
the horizontal span of the stair.
[Illustration: Fig. 120-a-b Types of Stairs Fig. 120-c]
[Illustration: Fig. 121. Rise and Run of Stair]
A good average stair for a cottage will have a rise per step of 7
inches and a run of tread of 10 inches. Variations will have to be made
in both rise and tread to meet conditions, but the student may take
these dimensions as starting dimensions unless otherwise directed.
Steps should not be either too steep, due to excessive rise per foot,
or "slow" due to extreme width of step. An old rule for determining the
relation of rise to tread is: "Twice the rise plus the tread should
equal 24"."
Proceed as follows: (1) Lay off on a story pole the total rise of the
stair by placing the pole upright in the well hole. (2) Set a pair of
dividers to 1" and step off this distance so marked. If there is a
remainder, increase or diminish the divider's space and again step off
the space. Continue this until a setting is obtained which gives no
remainder. The number of risers will be found by counting the spaces,
and the rise per step by measuring one of these spaces. (3) If the run
of the stair is not of exact specification (some variation is usually
possible) the run per step or tread may be determined by the rule just
given. If a definite total run is specified the tread must be figured.
(4) Since there is always one more riser than tread, the run per step
is obtained by dividing the total run in inches by the number of risers
less one. The numbers thus obtained for rise and run per step are the
ones to be used on the framing square in laying out the stringers.
[Illustration: Fig. 122. Laying out String]
[Illustration: Fig. 123. Pitch Board.]
[Illustration: Fig. 124. Economical Center Stringer]
(5) Joint one edge of each stringer straight and square and place the
framing square as in Fig. 122 and scribe along both blade and tongue.
(6) Scribe the line _A_ parallel to the 9" run, at a distance from
it equal to the rise diminished by the thickness of the proposed tread.
(7) Continue to lay the square as in (5) until the required number of
steps have been laid out. A pitch board might have been constructed and
made use of instead of the framing square in laying out the stringers.
This is nothing more than a piece of stock which serves as a template
by which to lay out the rise and run of each step, Fig. 123. A cleat
or fence nailed to one edge after the three edges have been planed to
dimensions permits easy and accurate placing of the same.
(8) There remains the sawing out. On open stringers this is done
by sawing square across the board or plank. Where the exposed ends
of risers would make a bad appearance, the cuts in the stringers
for risers are made mitering and the ends of the risers are mitered
correspondingly. In either case the end of the riser will be flush with
the exposed side of the stringer or string.
Fig. 124 illustrates an economical way of constructing a center
stringer, a 2" × 4" having nailed to its top edge the waste cut from
the side or wall stringers.
[Illustration: Fig. 125. Stringer for Attic Stair]
=61. Risers and Treads.=--Upon the common stair, such as attic and
porch, etc., treads and risers are placed as in Fig. 120, being nailed
to place, risers first and then treads.
On porch steps and open stringers, the treads should overhang at their
ends an amount equal to that given the front. The cove, if one be used,
should be carried around and "returned" under the end of the tread.
On enclosed or semi-enclosed stringers, a combination of stringer
and wall board is commonly used. Fig. 125 illustrates a type of
construction often used upon attic stairs. In this the side stringers
are framed of 1" stock and then nailed to the wall board of similar
thickness. Such construction is not suited for first floor stair work
where the effects of shrinkage would show to greater disadvantage.
[Illustration: Fig. 126. Main Stair Detail]
Fig. 126 illustrates the manner of framing a modern stair suitable
for a first floor where the best type of construction is demanded. As
a rule, such stair work will be done at a mill and the stair brought
to the building knock-down. The carpenter will have framed the rough
stringers which are to support the ceiling below the stair, and placed
them so that they may be used as a temporary stair for the workmen. If
the stairway is an open one or semi-open, the plastering under these
stringers will have been placed, the stair being put together on the
floor and then raised to its place. If the well-hole is such that the
stair must be assembled while the strings or wall boards are in place,
the lath and plaster must be left off the rough stringers until after
the stair has been assembled and the wedges glued and driven in place
as shown in the illustration. Rough stringers must be placed far enough
from the sides of the well-hole so that the wall board may settle in
place and that the wedges may be easily placed, usually about 4" or 5"
from the wall will be sufficient.
=62. Porches.=--Fig. 127 illustrates the manner of framing the
floor of a porch. Such framework should be given a pitch downward away
from the house of about 1" in 10' that the water may be drained.
[Illustration: Fig. 127. Detail of Porch Framing]
Fig. 128 illustrates the manner of placing water table and flooring,
etc. Water table is first placed, the corners being mitered and the
whole furred out from the frame about a quarter of an inch to allow any
dampness to escape. Porch floors should have their joints painted with
lead just before being laid.
[Illustration: Fig. 128. Detail of Porch Finish]
Posts and balusters are usually placed after the porch roof has been
placed, the upper frame being temporarily supported by studs.
In Fig. 127 is also shown the manner of framing the bearing joists,
ceiling joists and rafters for a hip roof. The various cuts are
obtained in the same manner as are similar cuts on the main roof. Porch
roofs are seldom given as much pitch as the main roof. They do not need
as much and must, usually, be kept below the window sill line of the
second story.
Fig. 128 also illustrates a common type of trim for porch cornice.
Where supporting plates are long, a flitch plate girder is formed of
them by the insertion between them of a stiff plate of structural steel
of suitable length and width.
=63. Interior Finish.=--A part of the carpenter's duty is the
placing of all interior finish, such as base boards, door jambs, etc.
Formerly the carpenter made, or "got out" his trim by hand but today he
finds it much pleasanter and cheaper to buy the machine-made product of
the mill. Even door and window frames are usually purchased from the
mill, either assembled or knock-down.
=64. Setting Door Jambs.=--If the studs about interior door
openings have been carefully selected for straightness and properly set
or plumbed, the setting of the door jamb should be an easy matter, If
this work has not been properly done, considerable ingenuity will be
required oftentimes to get the frame set so that its edges are out of
wind and the frame plumb. If a jamb should not be set plumb and out of
wind, the operation of making a door fit its stops properly is a most
trying one and the result usually unsatisfactory. Too much emphasis
cannot be placed upon the necessity for proper placing of studs and
jambs. (1) Saw off the head lugs just enough to allow the frame to be
placed in the opening. (2) Cut a spacing stick of a length sufficient
to reach from the floor to the under surface of the head jamb when
that member is in its proper place. (3) Place the head jamb at one of
its ends upon this stick and tack the jamb to the stud lightly. (4)
Level the head jamb and lightly tack the second jamb, inserting wedging
blocks or shingle points between the jamb and stud. A spread stick cut
to hold the jambs apart properly at the base is desirable. (5) Lay a
piece of finish floor against the face of each jamb and scribe along
the top of this to indicate where the jambs must be cut off to fit the
finish floor when it is placed. It is taken for granted that the finish
floor is to be laid last. If a finish floor is not to be used, or if it
is to be placed before the wall trim, the head jamb will be leveled
but not located as to height, the dividers being used to scribe the
feet, being set so that the proper amount will be cut off to allow the
jamb to rest at the right height when cut to the scribed lines. (6)
Remove the jamb and saw to the scribed lines. (7) Replace the frame and
tack it at one side after plumbing it both on its face side and face
edge. See that the jamb is at the right height by inserting the blocks
of flooring used in scribing to length. (8) Tack the second side-jamb
close to the head. (9) Sight across the edges of these jambs and adjust
the loose jamb until the frame is out of wind. Plumb its face, blocking
the back. Shingles placed point to point provide easy blocking where
the space is not too large. A straight-edge placed against the face
of a jamb will indicate whether it has been sprung in the blocking or
wedging between jamb and stud.
[Illustration: Fig. 129. Setting Dividers at Meeting Rails]
[Illustration: Fig. 130. Scribing Bottom of Lower Sash]
=65. Fitting Window Sash.=--Sash are often fitted before the
house is plastered and before the sash are glazed. (1) Joint the top
and sides of the top sash, chamfering the arrises very slightly by a
stroke or two with the plane. (2) Cut and fit the meeting rails about
the parting stops remembering to leave a little "play," that successive
coats of paint on the stops may not cause binding, 1/16" on each side
is not too much. (3) Joint the edges of the lower sash. (4) Since the
bottom rail has not been beveled, only the lugs sawed off, the meeting
rails will appear with reference to one another as in Fig. 129. Set a
pair of dividers to a distance equal to that between the tops of the
meeting rails. This can be done by placing the dividers between the
meeting rails. (5) Scribe the bottom rail as indicated in Fig. 130.
If the sash has been glazed so that the outer face of the bottom rail
is not accessible from the inside, the scribing is to be done on the
inside of the bottom rail and a T-bevel set to the slope of the sill
and this used to transfer the angle to the edges of the sash. Before
scribing the bottom rail, see that the meeting rails are apart a
uniform distance across the sash. (6) Saw and then plane to the scribed
line.
Where sash weights are to be used, they are easiest placed before
lathing. The proper tying of a sash cord so that it shall not work
loose with time is a matter for careful instruction by the teacher. No
good carpenter will have his sash cords coming untied. The cord can be
cut the estimated length after the weight has been attached, and a knot
or loop tied in the free end so that the cord shall not slip thru the
pulley.
In case weights are not placed before the lath and plaster, it will
be necessary to make use of a "duck" to draw the end of the sash cord
up thru the removed pocket cover of the jamb. This "duck" is usually
a piece of lead beaten about one end of a piece of stout short cord.
This lead weight is lowered thru the pulley by means of a longer cord,
the end of the sash cord is then fastened to the longer cord, after
removing the duck, and then drawn up and thru the pulley.
To determine the length of sash cord, draw the sash weight to the top
of the jamb and, setting a sash upon the sill, mark and cut the cord
about four or five inches below the opening in the edge of the sash in
which the knotted end of the cord is to rest.
[Illustration: Fig. 131. Using Block to Locate Door Stop Position on
Jamb]
=66. Placing Door, Window, and other Trim.=--In Fig. 110-a is
shown one of the many styles of casing in common use. Base blocks and
casing stock are prepared at the mill and the carpenter has but to
cut these to the proper lengths and fit and attach them. (1) The base
block is first placed, tho some workmen prefer to fit the base first,
cutting it to a length such as will allow the proper placing of the
block after the base is nailed in position. Where the finish floor is
laid last, this block will be scribed at its bottom by means of a piece
of flooring, otherwise the dividers would be used. (2) After the blocks
are placed the casings are cut to length and nailed. (3) The head
member is next made up and placed. It is customary for all door and
window heads, where built up, to be constructed at one time. It should
be noted that door casings are not placed flush with the face of the
jamb. They should be kept back about 5/16". This is to allow the easy
placing of hinges and also for appearance' sake. In all casing work the
expedient of sawing under at the back should be supplemented by the use
of the block plane, where necessary, that tight joints may result.
Window stool stock, like that of casings, is prepared at a mill and
needs only to be cut to length and have the ends "returned" to match
the face edge. (1) Lower the sash, then fit the stool to this allowing
enough "play" that subsequent paint or varnish may not cause the stool
to bind the lower rail of the sash. (2) Place and nail the apron. (3)
Cut and place the side casings. Note that side casings are placed
flush with the face of the jambs. The crack so formed is concealed when
the stop bead is placed. (4) Place the head.
[Illustration: Fig. 132. Door Parts]
Base boards and base mould may now be placed. Blocks of a thickness of
the finish floor placed along the wall at frequent intervals will serve
to locate the position of the base above the rough floor, when the
finish floor is to be laid afterward. Internal corners of base mould
and picture mould, when of irregular face, should be coped. External
corners should have mitered joints. Shoe mould will be placed after the
finish floor is laid.
Stop beads may next be placed in the windows and in such doors as are
not rabbeted. Head stops are placed first and the side stops then coped
to these. A block of a width equal to the thickness of the door will
be an aid in placing stops easily, Fig. 131. Window stops should be so
placed that the lower sash may move freely as it is raised.
=67. Hanging Doors.=--In the fitting of large doors, such as in
dwellings, allowance must be made for subsequent coats of varnish or
paint, usually a scant 1/16" is allowed at top and each side of a door.
The bottom of a door is often not touched, except to saw away the lugs
of the stiles, until after the door is hung. The door is hinged, then
closed and the bottom scribed to the floor so as to allow the door to
swing over rugs or carpet freely. Where a threshold is to be used, the
door is scribed to fit the thickness of the proposed threshold. ⅛"
should be allowed at the bottom of the door for play. If a door has a
stile with a bow in its face, it should be turned so that the bow is
next the stop of the lock side.
[Illustration: Fig. 133. Measuring Opening]
=68. Fitting a Door.=--The names of the parts of a door and
their relative positions are indicated in Fig. 132. (1) Mark with a
try-square and saw off the lugs, the parts of the stiles which project
beyond the rails. (2) Plane an edge of the door until it fits the side
of the frame against which it is to be hung. If the frame is straight,
this edge may be planed straight. It is not wise to take for granted
the squareness or straightness of a frame. A test or series of tests
may first be made with square and straight-edge. A mechanic, however,
usually planes an edge until it fits the frame, testing by holding the
door against the frame as near to its position as its size will allow.
(3) Measure the width of the frame at its top and bottom, Fig. 133,
and transfer these dimensions to the top and bottom of the door, Fig.
134. When approaching the line, in planing, place the door against
the frame often enough to see where the allowances must be made for
irregularities in the frame. (4) Plane the top edge of the door until
it fits the frame properly when the first planed edge is in position.
(5) The length of the door will be determined by scribing it to the
floor after being hinged.
The edge of the door which is to swing free is usually planed slightly
lower at the back arris than at the front. An examination of the
movement of an ordinary house door will show the reason for this.
[Illustration: Fig. 134. Laying off Width]
=69. Hinging a Door.=--The hinges most commonly used in carpentry
are the kind known as butts. Where the door stands in a vertical
position, hinges in which the two parts are joined by a loose pin are
generally used. By removing the pins the door may be removed without
taking the screws out of the hinge. Such hinges are more easily applied
than those with the fixed pin. (1) Place the door in position; keep
it tight against the top and the hinge side of the frame. (2) Measure
from top and bottom of the door to locate the position for the top of
the higher hinge and the bottom of the lower hinge. Usually, the lower
hinge is placed somewhat farther from the bottom than the higher hinge
is from the top. (3) With the knife or chisel mark on both door and
frame at the points just located, Fig. 135. (4) Take out the door,
place the hinge as in Fig. 136, and mark along the ends with a knife.
In a similar manner mark the frame. Make certain that the openings on
door and on frame are laid off so as to correspond before proceeding
further, (5) Set the gage for the depth the hinge is to be sunk Fig.
137 and gage both door and frame. (6) Set another gage for width of
openings, Fig. 138, and gage both door and frame, keeping the head of
the gage against the front of the door. (7) Chisel out these gains on
door and frame, Fig. 139. (8) If loose-pin butts are used, separate the
parts and fasten them in place. Use a spiral drill to make openings
for the screws. To insure the hinges' pulling tight against the side
of the gain make the holes just a little nearer the back side of the
screw hole of the hinge Put the door in place and insert the pins. It
is a good mechanic who can make a door hang properly the first time it
is put up. It is better, therefore, to insert but one or two screws in
each part of a hinge until the door has been tried. (9) If the door
hangs away from the frame on the hinge side, take it off; take off
hinge on door or frame, or both if the crack is large; chisel the gain
deeper at its front. By chiseling at the front only and feathering
the cut toward the back, the gain needs to be cut but about one-half
as deep as if the whole hinge were sunk. If the door should fail to
shut because the hinge edge strikes the frame to soon, the screws of
the offending hinge must be loosened and a piece of heavy paper or
cardboard inserted along the entire edge of the gain. Fasten the screws
and cut off the surplus paper with a knife. If plain butt hinges are
used the operations are similar to those just described except that the
whole hinge must be fastened to the door and the door held in place
while fastening the hinges to the frame.
[Illustration: Fig. 135. Locating Hinge Position]
[Illustration: Fig. 136. Knifing Hinge Location]
=70. Fitting Locks.=--Two types of lock are in common use upon
dwelling doors, the rim and the mortise lock. The rim lock, Fig.
140, is used upon cheap construction and is attached to the outer
surface of the door. The mortise lock is used upon the better class
of work; the box is housed into a mortise and the selvage into a gain
cut into the edge of the door stile. Door locks are made so that the
bolts may be reversed to fit either right or left hand doors. This is
accomplished by removing a screw in the side of the box and carefully
lifting the bolt, replacing it in reversed position. A right hand door
is one which swings to the right when pushed open.
[Illustration: Fig. 137. Setting Gage for Depth of Gain]
[Illustration: Fig. 138. Setting gage for Width of Gain]
To attach a rim lock: (1) Place the lock against the side of the door
and mark thru the key hole and knob spindle hole with a sharp awl or
divider point. (2) Remove the lock and bore appropriate sized holes.
(3) Fasten the lock and place the escutcheons, knob spindle and knobs.
(4) Locate and attach the strike or latch plate.
[Illustration: Fig. 139. Gain Ready for Hinge]
To place a mortise lock, Fig. 141: (1) In a manner similar to that used
in placing the rim lock, locate the knob spindle and key holes. A more
accurate result is obtained if the knob spindle hole is located by four
points, one at each corner of the square, Fig. 142. In placing the
lock, keep the selvage back from the edge of the door a scant 1/16" so
that the selvage may be sunk below the edge of the door by that amount
when mortised in.
[Illustration: Fig. 140. Rim Lock]
[Illustration: Fig. 141. Mortise Lock]
This will permit the door to be trimmed without the removal of the
lock in case the door should swell after being fitted and locked. (2)
Bore the holes for knob spindle and key. (3) Locate a center line on
the edge of the stile and bore for the mortise which shall receive the
box of the lock. (4) Place the box and then mark about the protruding
selvage using a sharp knife, Fig. 143. (5) Remove the lock and "gain
in" the selvage, Fig. 144. (6) Fasten the lock by means of the screws
thru the selvage and attach the escutcheons, knob spindle and knobs.
(7) Close the door and mark the vertical position of the latch upon the
jamb. (8) Open the door and place the latch or strike plate, locating
its vertical position by means of the knife marks just made upon the
jamb, and its horizontal position by a measurement taken from the latch
to the face of the door; transfer to the jamb by rule or gage. (9)
Scribe about the plate and then gain it into the jamb. On a door with a
rabbeted jamb instead of an adjustable stop, the essential measurement
will be from the back arris of the stile to the front of the latch.
(10) Attach the plate, then chisel out the openings for latch and bolt.
Equally common is the practice of taking step (3) first, with steps (1)
and (2) taken after step (5).
=71. Laying and Scraping Floors.=--Quarter-sawed stock makes
the best wearing floor. However, oak wears well in either plain or
quarter-sawed forms. All hard wood finish floors are milled with
tongues and grooves on edges and ends. Holes for nailing are usually
drilled at the mill also.
[Illustration: Fig. 142. Locating Knob Spindle Hole]
In laying a finish floor, it is not advisable to lay it with its
lengths extending in the same direction as those of the rough floor.
The shrinkage of the wide boards of the under floor will open unseemly
cracks in the finish floor. Where it is necessary to run lengths for
both floors in the same direction the finish floor should be separated
from the rough floor by thin furring, such as lath, placed 16" apart.
Rough floors laid diagonally overcome this difficulty. Paper is usually
placed between the two floors. Care should be taken in starting a floor
to select straight boards. Where grooves fail to fit tongues of boards
that are laid, a piece of 2" × 4" about 3' or 4' long should be used
as a pounding block that the tongue of the board being laid may not
be battered, the most common cause of trouble in floor laying. Nails
are driven "toeing" thru the board just above the tongue that the heads
may be concealed and also to better draw the board in position. Hammer
marks showing upon the face of a floor indicate carelessness. It is
not necessary that nails should always strike joists, for a good rough
floor will hold such nails with sufficient firmness. Where nails must
be driven into hard maple, a hole must be drilled first. On the great
majority of hard woods the dipping of the point of the nail in soap or
oil will cause it to enter the wood with careful driving, without the
drilling of a hole.
[Illustration: Fig. 143. Locating Selvage Gain]
[Illustration: Fig. 144. Ready for the Lock]
After a hardwood floor has been laid it should be scraped. Scraping
floors is a tedious task at best. Electrically driven machines now
relieve the carpenter of much of this work, the floors being laid and
finished by a specialist in floor work. The shoe mould is placed
last, being nailed to the floor, so that any shrinkage of the joists
will cause the mould to drop with the floor. Base board and shoe mould
should be stained, but not varnished, before the mould is placed.
On account of waste in tonguing and grooving and straightening flooring
stock, an allowance of from ⅕ to ¼ extra is necessary in estimating.
[Illustration: Fig. 145. Detail of Door Frame]
=72. Door and Window Frames.=--Like other carpentry detail, window
and door frames may be constructed in any one of a number of styles.
Fig. 145 illustrates a satisfactory type of door frame for cottage use.
The sill will be given a pitch or fall of 1" in 12" and will have its
ends housed into the jambs. The jambs will be assembled first, being
nailed together. Next, the side casings are fitted at their lower ends,
cut to length and nailed. Frequently they are nailed and then cut to
length. The head casing with its cap is next placed.
Fig. 146 illustrates a common type of cottage window frame. The method
of procedure is not unlike that described for the door frame. The sill
will be grooved on its under side to receive the top edge of the siding
board and given a fall of 1" in 10". Jambs must be grooved to receive
a parting stop as shown. Where weights are to be used each jamb must
have a pocket as detailed. The stock sawed out of the jamb may be made
use of for pocket cover stock by proper manipulation. Pulleys may be
placed before the jambs are assembled, at least the holes for them
should be prepared.
[Illustration: Fig. 146. Detail of Window Frame]
There are a number of "tricks of the trade" in frame making. Their
presentation must be left to the instructor, for the making of frames
belongs to millwork and space can be spared here for general directions
only.
=73. Woodwork in Masonry Structures.=--Wood framing in brick and
other masonry buildings is but slightly different from that wholly in
wood. Fig. 147 illustrates the manner of framing the ends of joists
which rest in solid masonry walls. The ends are shaped as indicated
so that, in case of fire, the floors in falling will not pull over
the walls, but will fall free. Anchors are used to tie the building
together, and these are to be placed near the lower edge of the joists
so that they may split out of the joists easily or allow the floor to
drop free, in case of a falling of the floor and joists.
A popular type of construction is that known as brick veneer, Fig. 148.
It consists of an ordinary framed house with a covering of brick as
shown. These bricks are fastened to the wall by metallic bonds. From
the outside, the building has all of the appearance of solid brick,
while it is claimed that a wall so formed is warmer than one of solid
brick.
[Illustration: Fig. 147-a Fig. 147-b
Joist Framed into Brick Wall]
[Illustration: Fig. 148. Brick Veneer]
Over openings in brick walls, lintels are required to support the arch,
Fig. 150.
Fig. 149 shows the manner of framing a window opening for a brick wall.
Fig. 151 illustrates the manner of attaching a plate to a brick wall.
[Illustration: Fig. 149. Window Detail for Brick Wall]
[Illustration: Fig. 150. Lintels]
[Illustration: Fig. 151. Attaching Plate to Brick Wall]