THE TERRITORIO DE COLONIAS--THE BOUNDARY LINE WITH
BRAZIL--CHIEF WATERWAYS
[Illustration: A CHOZA, THE HUT OF THE RUBBER GATHERERS.]
By Bolivia’s recent treaty with Brazil an exchange of territory was
made between the two countries in accordance with which the Bolivian
boundary was extended in one direction and cut off in another; and, as
the areas exchanged were not equivalent, an indemnity of two million
pounds sterling was, as previously stated, paid by Brazil in settlement
of the negotiation. In conformity with this treaty, which was signed
at Petropolis, Brazil, November 17, 1903, by Señores Don Fernando E.
Guachalla and Don Claudio Pinilla on the part of Bolivia, and by Baron
de Rio Branco and Don José Francisco de Assis-Brazil on the part of
Brazil, the boundary line between the Territorio de Colonias, on the
northern frontier of Bolivia, and Brazil is definitely established:
on the eastern boundary, the Territorio is separated from Brazil
by the Madeira River, from the confluence of the Beni and Guaporé
Rivers northward to the confluence of the Madeira and Abuná Rivers.
The northern boundary line of the Territorio extends from the mouth
of the Abuná upward along its course to latitude ten degrees twenty
minutes, this latitude marking the limit as it extends westward until
the Rapirrán, or Ina, River is reached, when the dividing line ascends
the course of that river to its main tributary, then turns due westward
to the Iquiry, which it ascends to the source, again turning westward
till it meets the Acre, or Aquiry River, which it ascends to latitude
eleven degrees, continuing along this line of latitude to the frontier
of Peru. On its western boundary, the Territorio de Colonias joins
Peru, and its southern limit is marked by the course of the Madre de
Dios River, which separates it from the neighboring department of La
Paz.
[Illustration: THE KNAUDT EXPEDITION TO PUERTO PANDO IN CAMP.]
The Madeira River, with its tributaries, famous for valuable rubber
forests, is the longest and the most important of the Amazon branches.
Historically and commercially it is of particular interest. For
centuries it has been an object of investigation by scientific
explorers, and a landmark in the progress of civilization, its
course directing the itinerary of geographers, naturalists, and
missionaries, who have furthered the cause of knowledge and truth
by their labors in this remote field. Almost every book of travel,
history, or botany which treats of tropical America contains some
reference to the scenery, resources, flora, and fauna, as well as to
the native inhabitants, of the Madeira region, and especially of that
part which is watered by its great tributary the Beni, and by the
abundant affluents of that mighty stream. The Madeira is formed by the
confluence of the Beni with the Mamoré at the port of Villa Bella,
where these two rivers together pour out a volume of thirty thousand
cubic feet of water per minute, the Beni being about half a mile broad
and the Mamoré a little less, at the point of entering the Madeira.
[Illustration: A BATELÓN ON THE MADRE DE DIOS.]
Villa Bella is a picturesque little city of a thousand inhabitants,
situated on the triangular _playa_, or bank, formed by the
junction of the Beni and Mamoré Rivers. It stands at an altitude of
five hundred feet above sea level, and its climate is agreeable and
healthful, modified by cooling breezes. The streets are broad and
straight, and cut one another at right angles, those which run east
and west extending right across the _playa_ from one river bank
to the other. All the houses are of one story, and the walls are built
of reeds, called _chuchíos_, which are set up in rows and bound
together at intervals with interlacing cords or fibres, the roofs
being made of palm leaves. The richer people have their dwellings
finished with a thin coating of plaster inside, which admits of being
papered over or covered with muslin as an adornment and a guarantee
of greater privacy. A Bolivian writer very amusingly describes what
he calls the transparency of social life in Villa Bella, in contrast
to the rigorous custom of other cities, where the thickest walls and
most carefully barred windows conceal both the virtues and the defects
of social modesty. The spectacle of this interesting town is unique,
especially at the height of the rubber-gathering season, when the
_batelones_, which carry rubber from the Beni and Guaporé regions
down to San Antonio on the Madeira, in Brazil, are ranged along the
sandy _playa_, awaiting inspection. These boats are employed to
descend the nineteen _cachuelas_, or rapids, including Theotonio,
Riberón, and others, which altogether constitute a fall of two hundred
feet in a distance of a little more than a hundred miles, between Villa
Bella and San Antonio. From San Antonio steamers and sailing ships
transport the rubber to foreign countries. By the terms of the recent
treaty with Bolivia, the government of Brazil agrees to build, on
Brazilian territory, a railway which will extend from San Antonio to
Guayaramerím, a few leagues south of Villa Bella, on the Mamoré River,
above the _cachuela_, or falls, of the same name, the railway to
have a branch line to Villa Bella.
[Illustration: RAPIDS OF THEOTONIO, ON THE MADEIRA RIVER.]
Although Villa Bella is the largest port of the Territorio de Colonias,
it is no longer the last Bolivian port on the northern border of the
republic, the new boundary settlement making the town of Abuná, at
the junction of the Abuná and the Madeira Rivers, the frontier port.
The river Abuná, which now forms part of the northern boundary of the
republic, is a picturesque and abundant stream, overhung by the foliage
of tropical trees and vines, and presenting an interesting aspect as
the canoes and cargo boats ply up and down its winding course. Several
rapids occur at intervals to impede navigation, and the river is not
a favorite with travellers, who tell thrilling stories of adventure
in its _cachuelas_, and of narrow escapes from death as a result of
wounds from its dangerously armed fishes, or shocks from its electric
eels. It is not unusual for an incautious swimmer to be paralyzed by
the electricity which the eel discharges, especially when aroused
by fear or anger. Señor Don José Manuel Aponte, who accompanied the
government delegation to the Acre in 1901, describes the many dangers
encountered from the _rayas_, _caimanes_, _palometas_, and other
habitants of this river. The forests of the Abuná are particularly
rich in rubber trees, and along its banks paths may be seen to cross
one another in all directions, indicating the many _estradas_ that are
under exploitation. The principal tributaries of the Abuná are the
Rapirrán, the Caramanu, and the Rio Negro, all of which are, like the
main river, rich in rubber trees. The Iquiry River, a branch of the
Purús, rises in the Territorio de Colonias, and flows through that part
of it which is generally known as the Acre district, the Acre River
running in a parallel line with the Iquiry for a considerable distance.
All this region is prodigiously rich in rubber of superior quality, the
name “Acre rubber” being considered a guarantee of the best article. A
number of small towns are scattered along the courses of the rivers,
usually marking the site of a valuable property belonging either to
some private individual or to a company, often some foreign syndicate.
On all these rivers navigation is more or less impeded by frequent
_cachuelas_, that of Riosiño interrupting the traffic on the Acre near
the Bolivian border at some seasons. The town of Riosiño lies just
north of the recently established limits, Capatará being the nearest
town to the frontier on the Bolivian side. The Acre River is navigable
throughout its course during six months of the year, from December
to May, and steam launches from Pará make two trips each way at this
season. For the remaining six months, navigation is limited to small
_batelones_ and _monterías_, especially in September and October when
the waterways are practically useless. In addition to the Abuná, the
Iquiry, and the Acre, with their tributaries, the Orton River also
waters the central and southern districts of the Territorio. The
Orton, named in honor of the celebrated naturalist, is formed by the
confluence of the Tahuamanu and the Manuripi, and is navigable for
steam launches during the summer months only. It flows into the Beni a
few leagues below the junction of that river with the Madre de Dios.
[Illustration: VIEW OF THE MADEIRA RIVER, ISLANDS IN THE
DISTANCE.]
[Illustration: FORDING THE RIVER PIQUENDO.]
The name Madre de Dios, meaning “Mother of God,” was given to this
river by the Spaniards, the Indian name being Amarumayo, or “River of
the Serpent.” The Madre de Dios rises in the Cordillera de Vilcanota,
in Peru, near the source of the Ucayali, another great tributary of
the Amazon, and in its long course to the Beni it waters a territory
covering seven thousand square leagues. It is navigable for small boats
almost throughout its entire length, and, in the rainy season, steam
launches ascend from Riberalta to the mouth of the Pando, Chandless,
Inambary, and Heath, its principal tributaries. Few rivers of the
Amazon system have been more thoroughly explored within recent years
than the Madre de Dios. In 1883 the Bolivian government voted a sum of
money for its exploration and for the establishment of missions in that
region, and in 1884 Father Armentia, now Bishop of La Paz, in company
with the government delegate, Señor Don Antenor Vásquez, explored the
river, ascending it in a small boat as far as latitude thirteen degrees
and longitude seventy-one degrees forty-one minutes, where the reverend
father planted a cross to mark the limit reached. Without including its
navigable tributaries, the Madre de Dios is a continuous waterway for
more than two hundred and fifty miles. It is not so deep as the Beni
or the Mamoré. Within its immense curves, wide, sandy _playas_
are formed, the favorite haunts of the turtle, whose eggs, found
in vast numbers, constitute one of the delicacies of this region.
Travellers in the Madre de Dios country must have waterproof clothing
and waterproof coverings for their baggage, as the heavy rains play
havoc with everything exposed to their penetrating force. The present
governor, the _delegado nacional_ of the Territorio de Colonias,
ex-President José Manuel Pando, explored the Madre de Dios River in
1893, and discovered the tributaries Heath, Pando, and Inambary. In
1897 he continued his explorations, ascending these tributaries to the
Peruvian boundary line.
[Illustration: CONFLUENCE OF THE BENI AND MAMORÉ RIVERS,
VILLA BELLA.]
[Illustration: RIVER PORT OF GUARAYOS.]
[Illustration: SCENE ON THE MAMORÉ RIVER, NEAR VILLA BELLA.]
Riberalta is the headquarters for most of the expeditions up the
Beni and Madre de Dios Rivers. Like Villa Bella, it overlooks the
confluence of two rivers,--the Beni and the Madre de Dios,--and the
name, Riberalta, “high bank,” indicates the position it occupies on
the elevated cliff bordering the river Beni. A long avenue crosses
the town, flanking which a row of houses is ranged in uniform style
overlooking the confluence, the view of the Madre de Dios being
rendered additionally picturesque by a beautiful island embowered
in verdure. Steam propellers and side-wheel launches are used in
these rivers, the mail steamer _Tahuamanu_ being fitted up with
convenient accommodations. From La Paz to Riberalta, the present
route _via_ Puerto Pando offers many difficulties, but it is being
constantly improved, and the trip may be made entirely by steamer from
Puerto Pando, where the Bopi River enters the Beni, small _balsas_,
_callapos_, _monterías_, _gariteas_, and _batelones_ being used on the
upper streams. Numerous expeditions have recently made the journey,
and a new bridle road of about one hundred and fifty miles in extent
now connects La Paz with Puerto Pando, greatly facilitating this part
of the trip. From Puerto Pando northward the Beni River has several
short rapids and falls which impede navigation, especially at the
points known as Chepite, Bala, and Atamarani, after which the route
is clear as far as Rurrenabaque, the most important port of the Upper
Beni. Situated on the opposite bank of the river is San Buenaventura,
also a thriving shipping port. Continuing down the river, the next
port is Salinas, a short distance below the rapids of Atamarani. From
Rurrenabaque to Puerto Salinas the voyage is made in _callapos_, the
steamer again receiving passengers at the latter port for Guarayos,
Carmen, and other points until Riberalta is reached. From Guarayos
down the river many rubber establishments are passed, both banks being
marked at short intervals by signs of the rubber industry.
[Illustration: CAMP OF RUBBER GATHERERS, TERRITORIO DE
COLONIAS.]
As before stated, Riberalta is the distributing point for the great
rubber region of the Territorio de Colonias. From this port to the
mouth of the Orton River is twenty miles, and eighty miles below are
encountered the rapids of Esperanza, after passing which the river
extends twenty miles further, when the port of Villa Bella is reached,
and the Beni loses its course in the great Madeira. From La Paz to
Villa Bella the distance is about nine hundred miles. Eight days are
required for the trip from Villa Bella to Puerto Pando; and as soon
as the railway is finished from Puerto Pando to La Paz, the entire
journey can be made in nine days. A road has been opened from Puerto
Pando to Rurrenabaque along the right bank of the river Beni, and
from Rurrenabaque to Atamarani a road is also being built. It is the
intention of the Bolivian government to contribute by every possible
means to the development of all this part of the country, and to
facilitate colonization, especially in the Territorio de Colonias. A
new hospital is under construction, and means of improving sanitary
conditions are eagerly considered. The climate, though tropical, is,
with the exception of a few localities, generally healthful.
[Illustration: TRANSHIPPING CARGO AT THE RAPIDS OF THEOTONIO,
ON THE MADEIRA RIVER.]
In the rubber country the work of the day is done in the early morning.
During the _epoca de fabrico_, as the season for gathering is
called, the workmen are already on their way to the _estradas_
by four o’clock. As they pass each rubber tree on their route, they
stop to make a slanting cut in its trunk, into which the edge of
one of their little tin _tichelas_ is easily fastened, so the
cup remains there and receives the _latex_ that slowly pours
into it, while they continue their way until every tree of the
_estrada_ has been tapped and its _tichela_ put in place.
Some large trees have two or three, and even four, _tichelas_
attached. By about nine o’clock in the morning this work is finished,
and the _seringuero_, as the rubber gatherer is called, returns
over the same route, carrying a large pail, into which he pours the
contents of the _tichelas_. When he reaches his hut, he proceeds
at once to smoke the _latex_ until it takes the solid form of
a _bolacha_, as elsewhere described. Sometimes the gatherings
of several days are required to make a _bolacha_ of a hundred
pounds, more or less, and when it is completed the _patron_, or
employer, sends to get it. The day’s work is ended at noon, and the
_seringuero_ is free to spend the remaining hours as he pleases.
The industrious ones cultivate their little gardens, where they grow
corn, plantains, yucca, and other food products. It is said that the
women of this region are better rubber gatherers than the men, as they
are more careful, do not cut too deeply into the tree when tapping it,
are less wasteful of the _latex_, and never abscond, as the men
sometimes do, when they are in debt to the _patron_. The life
of the rubber gatherers is not so _triste_ as it is sometimes
painted. The people have many holidays here, as elsewhere, and when
the daily working hours are over they frequently spend the rest of
their time in little canoes on the river or stretched comfortably in a
hammock under the trees.
Nearly two-thirds of the rubber exported annually from Bolivia is
produced in the Territorio de Colonias, one of the richest rubber
countries of the world. And the quantity which is taken out of its
vast forests represents only a small proportion of the existing
wealth. The industry is restricted by the scarcity of laborers, the
population being only ten thousand, in a territory that covers an area
of nearly two hundred thousand square kilomètres. The few explorers who
have travelled in this region find it rich in a variety of tropical
products, though little cultivated, and very sparsely settled, the
population being centred in the towns and villages where the rubber
gatherers live, or where there are establishments of large rubber
companies, many of which have their shipping headquarters here.
Immigration and colonization are the most important factors to be
sought in the development and prosperity of the Territorio, and the
government of Bolivia is giving this matter especial consideration.
Not only are the resources of the country being carefully studied and
classified, but the means of transportation, the political security
of the colonists, and the protection of health are receiving the most
careful attention.
[Illustration: GLIMPSE OF FOREST AND STREAM, THE RUBBER
REGION.]
[Illustration: DANCING THE KENA-KENA. FIESTA OF DECEMBER
EIGHTH.]