health, my thoughts turned towards my distant home, which I had never
expected to revisit. Taking an affectionate leave of my brother, who
inclined to settle in the State of Ohio, and of my much esteemed
friends at Marietta, accompanied by Mr. ADAMS, I set out homewards on
Monday morning, June 6th.
{58} I QUITTED with regret a place where I had passed a few weeks so
pleasantly. I shall ever retain a grateful sense of the hospitality
with which I was received, and of the respect and attention with which
I was honored by the inhabitants of MARIETTA and BELLE PRÉ.
AS we preferred traversing the woods to ascending the river in a boat,
we returned to Wheeling on horseback.
THE industrious habits and neat improvements of the people on the west
side of the river, are strikingly contrasted with those on the east.
_Here_, in Ohio, they are intelligent, industrious, and thriving;
_there_, on the back skirts of Virginia, ignorant, lazy, and poor.
_Here_ the buildings are neat, though small, and furnished in many
instances with brick chimnies and glass windows; _there_ the
habitations are miserable cabins. _Here_ the grounds are laid out in a
regular manner, and inclosed by strong posts and rails; _there_ the
fields are surrounded by a rough zigzag log fence. _Here_ are thrifty
young apple orchards; _there_ the only fruit that is raised is the
peach, _from which a good brandy is distilled_!
{59} I HAD often heard a degrading character of the BACK SETTLERS; and
had now an opportunity of seeing it exhibited. The abundance of wild
game allures them to be huntsmen. They not only find sport in this
pursuit, but supply of provisions, together with considerable profit
from the peltry. They neglect, of course, the cultivation of the land.
They acquire rough and savage manners. Sloth and independence are
prominent traits in their character; to indulge the former is their
principal enjoyment, and to protect the latter their chief ambition.
ANOTHER cause of the difference may be that, in the back counties of
Virginia, every planter depends upon his NEGROES for the cultivation
of his lands; but in the State of Ohio, _where slavery is not
allowed_, every farmer tills his ground HIMSELF. To all this may be
added, that most of the “Back-wood’s men,” as they are called, are
emigrants from foreign countries, but the State of Ohio was settled by
people from NEW-ENGLAND, THE REGION OF INDUSTRY, ECONOMY, AND STEADY
HABITS.
{60} THE wilderness through which we rode often presented most
delightful prospects, particularly as we approached the bank of the
river, which opened and enlarged the view.
WE frequently remarked that the banks are higher at the margin, than
at a little distance back. I account for it in this manner. Large
trees, which are brought down the river by the inundations, are lodged
upon the borders of the bank; but cannot be floated far upon the
champaign, because obstructed by the growth of wood. Retaining their
situation when the waters subside, they obstruct and detain the leaves
and mud, which would else recoil into the stream, and thus, in process
of time, form a bank higher than the interior flats.
TUESDAY, _June 7_
THERE is something which impresses the mind with awe in the shade and
silence of these vast forests. In deep solitude, alone with nature, we
converse with GOD.
OUR course through the woods was directed by marked trees. As yet
there is no road cut.
THERE is but little underwood; but on the sides of the creeks, and
near the river, {61} the papaw (_Annona glabra_,) the spice bush, or
wild pimento (_Laurus benzoin_,) and the dogberry (_cornus Florida_,)
grow in the greatest abundance.
WE often stopped to admire the grapevines in these forests, which
twine among and spread a canopy over the summits of the highest trees.
Some are nine inches in diameter. They stretch from the root, which is
often thirty and forty feet from the trunk of the tree, and ascend in
a straight line to the first high limb, thirty and even sixty feet
from the ground. How they have reached such an height, without the
help of intermediate branches, is unaccountable.
ON the upper beach of one of the islands we saw a large flock of
Turkey Buzzards, attracted there by a dead carcass that had floated
down the river, and lodged upon the bar. These birds did not fly upon
our approach.
WE reached TOMLINSON, a small settlement near Grave Creek, to
lodge.[40] We propose spending tomorrow here in viewing the
surprizing forts and the “Big Mound,” in this vicinity.
{62} WEDNESDAY, _June 8_
“Behind me rises huge a reverend pile
Sole on this desert heath, a place of tombs,
Waste, desolate; where Ruin dreary dwells,
Brooding o’er sightless skulls and crumbling bones.”
WE went out this morning to examine the antient monuments about Grave
Creek. The town of Tomlinson is partly built upon one of the square
forts. Several mounds are to be seen. I think there are nine within a
mile. Three of them, which stand adjoining each other, are of superior
height and magnitude to those which are most commonly to be met with.
In digging away the side of one of these, in order to build a stable,
many curious stone implements were found; one resembled a syringe;
there were, also, a pestle, some copper beads of an oval shape, and
several other articles. One of the mounds in Col. Bygg’s garden was
excavated in order to make an ice-house.[41] It contained a vast
number of human bones, a variety of stone tools, and a kind of stone
signet of an oval shape, two inches in length, with a figure in
relievo resembling a note of admiration, surrounded by two raised
rims. Capt. Wilson, who presented the stone to my companion Mr. Adams,
observed that it was exactly the figure of {63} the brand with which
the Mexican horses were marked.[42] One of the mounds was surrounded
by a regular ditch and parapet, with only one entrance. The tumulus
was about twelve feet high, and the parapet five.
THE “_Big grave_,” as it is called, is a most astonishing mound. We
measured the perpendicular height, and it was sixty-seven feet and a
half. By the measurement of George Millar, Esq.[43] of Wheeling, it
is sixty-eight feet. Its sides are quite steep. The diameter of the
top is fifty-five feet: but the apex seems to have caved in; for the
present summit forms a bason, three or four feet in depth. Not having
a surveyor’s chain, we could not take the circumference, but judged
that its base covered more than half an acre. It is overgrown with
large trees on all sides. Near the top is a white oak of three feet
diameter; one still larger grows on the eastern side about half way
down. The mound sounds hollow. Undoubtedly its contents will be
numerous, curious, and calculated to develop in a farther degree the
history of the antiquities which abound in this part of our country.
{64} AS there are no excavations near the mound, and no hills or banks
of earth, we infer that it must have been principally formed of sods
skimmed from the surface, or of earth brought from a great distance.
The labour of collecting such a prodigious quantity must have been
inconceivably great. And when we consider the multitude of workmen,
the length of time, and the expense, requisite to form such a
stupendous mound; when we reflect upon the spirit of ambition which
suggested the idea of this monument, of great but simple magnificence,
to the memory of some renowned prince or warrior, we cannot but regret
that the name and the glory it was designed to perpetuate are
gone--LOST IN THE DARKNESS OF THE GRAVE![44]
THURSDAY, _June 9_
THE route from Tomlinson to Wheeling was very romantic. Sometimes we
passed through shaded vales of towering trees, and sometimes on a
winding road along the steep sides of a precipice, at the bottom of
which flowed the beautiful Ohio. The passage is circuitous and narrow,
and guarded from the steep descent to the river by a slight parapet of
logs or stones. If {65} you look below, you fear that the stumbling
horse will precipitate you among crags and trees to the river’s edge;
while from above, loosened rocks seem to threaten to crush you by a
fall.
ON these declivities grow the mountain raspberry (_Rubus montanus
floridus_,) in great plenty. It is a handsome bush; and the flower,
which is of a pale pink colour, and of the size and appearance of that
of the sweet-briar, or hedge rose, gives it a very ornamental
appearance. We were told that the fruit is large, and exceedingly
delicious.
FRIDAY, _June 10_
LEAVE Wheeling, and proceed homewards in our carriage. Lodge at
DONEGALA, in Washington County, Pennsylvania.[45]
SATURDAY, _June 11_
PASS through Washington and arrived at BROWNSVILLE to spend the
Sabbath. The remarks I made upon the situation of this place have been
transferred to the preceding account of the settlements on the
Monongahela river.
{66} MONDAY, _June 13_
DINED, and spent the afternoon at UNIONTOWN, in company with the
worthy Judge ADDISON, Judge ROBERTS, and the Judges, lawyers, and
gentlemen of the circuit Court of Fayette County.[46]
UNIONTOWN is the shire town of the County. It is a very pleasant and
thriving place, situated near Redstone Creek, and principally built
upon one straight street, the side walks of which are neatly paved
with large flat stones. It contains about one hundred and twenty
houses, many of them well built, and some quite handsome. The public
buildings are a meeting-house, and a stone Gaol. There is a
printing-office in the town which issues a weekly newspaper. Several
manufactures are carried on in the place, and much business done in
the mercantile line to very great advantage. Though the town has been
settled but fifteen years, it is, next to Pittsburg and Wheeling, the
most flourishing town through which we passed on the western side of
the mountains. Near it are some valuable merchant-mills; and in the
county are eighteen furnaces and iron works, and several
distilleries.[47]
{67} TOWARDS evening we pursued our journey as far as CONNELSVILLE,
where we slept. This town has been settled eight years. It is
pleasantly situated on the Yohiogany; and contains about eighty
houses, and four hundred inhabitants.[48]
TUESDAY, _June 14_
THROUGH woody and rugged ways we passed the CHESNUT RIDGE, and LAUREL
HILL, and reached SOMERSET to lodge: a distance of thirty-three miles.
This is a pretty place, the shire town of the County of the same name.
It has been settled eight years; contains about fifty houses, several
of them well built; some merchants’ stores, shops of artists, a
meeting-house, and a handsome Court-house and Gaol built with stone.
FINDING the afternoon too far spent to admit of another stage, we
concluded to pass the night here. After a repast at the inn, we walked
out to view the place, and inhale the cool breezes of declining day.
The sun was just sinking below the western mountains, and fringed
their tops with a rich variety of fiery hues, which died away into the
most delicate tints of purple. We stood contemplating this scene of
admirable {68} beauty, till the grey shades of evening shut it out
from the view.
WEDNESDAY, _June 15_
BEGINNING now to ascend the steep sides of the ALLEGHANY, the road is
rough and tiresome, and the prospect assumes a wilder and more
romantic appearance at every step we advance.
WE crossed a considerable stream which dashes over the rocks from the
declivity of the mountain, and makes the fourth fork of _Buffalo-lick
Creek_; one of the principal branches of the Yohiogany river. It
issues from a spring near the top of the mountain. The indistinct
echoes of the distant waterfall, and the plaintive murmurs of the
breeze breaking in upon the stillness of the desert region, constitute
an accompaniment corresponding with the solemnity and grandeur of the
whole scene.
WE dined at Seybour’s on the top of the mountain. We then visited the
beautiful spring, near the house, on the easterly brow of the
mountain, which is the source of _Caicutuck_, or _Will’s Creek_, whose
waters enter the Potomack at Fort Cumberland, an outer post built by
General Braddock in 1755.[49]
{69} NEXT we walked up to the higher ground, to enjoy the prospect
afforded by this stupendous elevation.
FROM this summit a sweep of hundreds of miles is visible, except where
remote intervening mountains break the line of the horizon, which in
other parts is lost in the interminable azure wherewith the heaven and
the earth are blended. Ideas of immensity swelled and exalted our
minds as we contemplated a prospect partaking so much of infinitude;
and we felt some wonderful relations to an universe without boundary
or end.
DESCENDING the mountain, we reached Metzker’s, an obscure inn, to
lodge.
THURSDAY, _June 16_
WE rose early in the morning and pursued our journey. For several
miles we had an excellent road on the top of DRY RIDGE. The sky was
clear. The stars shone brightly. All was solemn and still, as if
“nature felt a pause.” For some time we but dimly discerned our way;
but, as the twilight became brighter, the prospect opened before us.
The increasing light of dawning day extended the stretch of
picturesque scenery. The horizon assumed a {70} hue of tawny red,
which gradually heightened into ruddy tints, and formed a glowing
tiara to encircle the splendors of the rising sun. The orb of day rose
with uncommon grandeur among clouds of purple, red, and gold, which
mingling with the serene azure of the upper sky, composed a richness
and harmony of colouring which we never saw surpassed. The vapours of
the night rested in the vallies below, and seemed to the view one vast
ocean, through which the projecting peaks and summits of mountains
looked like clusters of islands. The whole scene was novel and
interesting in the highest degree. But we soon had to descend, and
were immersed in fog and vapour, and shut out from the pleasant light
of the sun for nearly half the day. The next mountain, however, raised
us above these low clouds, and presented us with a view of the clear
and unveiled sky.
MAKING a journey of twenty-eight miles this day, we arrived at
Martin’s, by the crossings of the Juniata, and put up for the night.
FRIDAY, _June 17_
PASSING the SIDELING HILLS, we reach MCCONNEL’S TOWN, a delightful,
{71} well-watered village in Bedford County, Pennsylvania, to dine. It
is situated in the valley, or, as it is called “the Cove,” between
SIDELING and NORTH MOUNTAIN. It has been built eight years; contains
about eighty houses, several of them handsomely built with brick or
stone, a number of stores and shops, and a small Dutch meeting-house.
QUITTING this sequestered place, we ascended the NORTH MOUNTAIN, and
enjoyed from its top a variegated and magnificent prospect. Deep below
we saw the town and beautiful vale we had passed, with the meandering
stream which runs through it. Scattered houses, and rich cultivated
farms, formed an interesting contrast with the rugged mountains with
which they were environed. On the north and west the prospect is
circumscribed by ranges of mountains; but on the east and south a
prodigious expanse of country is laid open to the eye, and the senses
are almost bewildered in contemplating the vastness of the scene.
TO wander through the shady grove, to contemplate the verdant pasture
and the field of ripening grain, or to admire the {72} flowery
beauties of the garden, may afford a pleasant recreation; but the
majestic features of the uncultivated wilderness, and the extensive
views of nature gained from the brows of a lofty mountain, produce an
expansion of fancy and an elevation of thought more dignified and
noble. When these great scenes of creation open upon the view, they
rouse an admiration exalting as it is delightful: and while the eye
surveys at a glance the immensity of heaven and earth, the mind is
rendered conscious of its innate dignity, and recognises those great
and comprehensive powers with which it is endowed. THE SUBLIME IN
NATURE, which, in its effect is equally solemn and pleasing,
captivates while it awes, and charms while it elevates and expands the
soul.
SATURDAY, _June 18_
WE tarried last night at Campbell’s at the _Cold Springs_, where we
met with the most excellent accommodations, and lodging peculiarly
refreshing to weary wayworn travellers; and rose this morning with
renovated strength and spirits to resume our journey.
{73} WE stopped at CHAMBERSBURG to breakfast. This is a fine town,
situated on Conogocheague Creek, through which might be opened an easy
communication with the Potomack. It is a post-town, and the capital of
Franklin County, in Pennsylvania; and is principally built on two
large streets which intersect each other at right angles, leaving a
public square in the centre. It contains about two hundred and fifty
houses, handsomely built of brick or stone; two Presbyterian churches;
a Court-house of brick, and a stone Gaol. There is a printing-office
in the place, and a paper-mill in the vicinity. It is a situation
favourable to trade and manufactures, and every thing looks lively and
thriving. The land in the neighbourhood appears rich and fertile, and
is highly cultivated.[50]
WE dined at Horne’s on the top of the SOUTH MOUNTAIN, and slept at
OXFORD, a small town which has been built nine years, but does not
appear to much advantage.[51]
LORD’S DAY, _June 19_
WISHING to attend public worship at Yorktown, we rose early this
morning and arrived there by nine o’clock; having passed {74} through
ABBOT’S TOWN, a pretty flourishing village, the chief town of Adams
County.[52]
MONDAY, _June 20_
YORKTOWN is a fine place, in pleasantness vying with Lancaster, in
neatness exceeding it. It is a post-town, and capital of the county of
York. It is situated on the east side of Codorus Creek, which empties
into the Susquehannah. It is regularly laid out, principally on two
main streets which cross each other at right angles. It contains more
than five hundred houses, several of which are handsomely built of
brick, and some of stone. The public buildings are a German Lutheran,
a German Calvinist, a Presbyterian, a Roman Catholic, and a Moravian
Church; a Quaker meeting-house; a Court house; a stone Gaol; a Record
office, and an Academy.
HENCE our journey was through _Lancaster_, _Reading_, and _Bethlehem_,
in Pennsylvania; _Warwick_ and _Fishkill_, in New York; and
_Farmington_ and _Hartford_ in Connecticut.
We reached home the beginning of July.
--“O quid solutis est beatius curis,
Cum mens onus reponit, ac peregrino
Labore fessi, venimus Larem ad nostrum!”
{75} ITINERARY
THE following directory of the Roads and Distances over the mountains,
from Lancaster in Pennsylvania, may be of use to explain some
particulars in the preceding Journal, and prove of service to those
who may have occasion to make the same tour.[53]
Towns Inns Distances in miles
From LANCASTER
to Big Chickey’s Cockran’s 9
Elizabeth town _Black horse_ 9
Middletown 9
_Chambers’ ferry_ over the Susquehannah 6
¶ _Silver springs_[54] 8
Carlisle 10
Mount rock _Grand Turk_ 10
Shippensburg 11
Strasburg 11
_Over_ TWO MOUNTAINS _to_ Fannetsburg 7
_Over the_ THIRD MOUNTAIN _to_ Burnt Cabins 4
_Over_ SIDELING HILLS to Wilds 13
_Crossings of the_ Juniata ¶ Martin’s 9
¶ Graham’s 8
{76} Bedford[55] 6
_Forks of the road_[56] ¶ Smith’s 4
_Glade road_ Metzker’s 10
_Top of the_ ALLEGHANY _White horse_ 11
Somerset ¶ Webster’s 13
LAUREL HILL 8
Behmer’s 3
_Jones’s Mill_ 6
Mount Pleasant 11
Westmoreland ¶ McKean’s 5
_Budd’s ferry over the_ Yohiogany 8
Pittsburg ¶ _Pure fountain_ 28
Cannonsburg _Black horse_ 18
Washington _Indian Queen_ 9
Alexandria 16
_Shepherd’s Mills_ 9
Wheeling[57] ¶ Goodwin’s 7
Down the river to MARIETTA 95
{77} RETURNING
From Marietta to
Newport ¶ Dana’s 6
Williamson’s 14
¶ McBride’s 12
_Hurd’s ferry across the_ Ohio Hurd’s 12
_Fish Creek_ 8
Grave Creek ¶ Bigg’s 12
Wheeling ¶ Goodwin’s 12
Donegala 23
Washington _Indian Queen_ 9
¶ Hawkin’s 13
Brownsville or Redstone ¶ Jenkinson’s 12
Union-town ¶ Collins’s 12
Connelsville ¶ Welles’ 11
CHESNUT RIDGE ¶Woodruff 9
Bachelor’s 5
_Top of_ LAUREL HILL Slaucher’s 4
Somerset Webster’s 14
McDommet’s 8
_Top of_ ALLEGHANY 6
Strotler’s 7
Metzker’s 4
_Forks of the road_ Bonnet’s 9
¶ Smith’s 1
End of the Glade road.
{78} Bedford 4
¶ Graham’s[58] 6
_Crossings of the_ Juniata ¶ Martin’s[59] 8
[_Then_, _to go by_ Chambersburg,
_take the road on the
S. E. side of_ SIDELING HILLS] Beckwith’s 8
McConnelstown ¶ Davis’s 9
Campbell’s 5
Chambersburg 9
McKean’s 4
Brigham’s 4
Horne’s 5
_Cross Keys_ 7
_Lion_ 3
Murphy’s 8
Oxford 2
Abbot’s town 4
¶ King’s 4
Wolfe’s 6
Yorktown ¶ Upp’s 5
_Wright’s ferry_ 12
Lancaster Swan’s 10
{79} THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS
_From, April 6 to June 13, 1803_