so called in honor of the late General Greene. It is a neat little
village.[18]
{33} WITHIN the distance of twenty-three miles from this enter _Big
Whitely Creek_, _Little Whitely_, _Brown’s run_, _Middle run_, _Cat’s
run_, _Muddy Creek_, and _Ten mile run_. Near the latter is
FREDERICKTOWN, a pretty village on the west side of the river.
SEVEN miles lower down, immediately above the mouth of _Dunlap’s
Creek_, on the east side, is BRIDGEPORT, a small thriving town,
connected with Brownsville by a neat bridge 260 feet long.
BROWNSVILLE, formerly called “Redstone old fort,” is a post-town,
belonging to Fayette County in Pennsylvania. Though extremely
pleasant, and commanding a most extensive and interesting prospect of
the river, the creeks, and the fine country around, it seems rather
disadvantageously situated on account of the steep declivity of the
hill on which it is principally built. It contains about one hundred
and fifty houses, and five hundred inhabitants. There is a Roman
Catholic church here, and four Friends’ meeting-houses in the
vicinity.
AN extensive paper-mill on _Redstone Creek_, a rope-walk, a brewery,
several valuable manufactories, and within a few miles of the town
twenty-four saw, grist, oil, and {34} fulling mills, render this a
place of much business. The trade and emigration down the river employ
boat-builders very profitably. About one hundred boats of twenty tons
each are said to be built here annually.
ON the south side of Redstone Creek formerly stood _Byrd’s Fort_.[19]
ABOUT nineteen miles below is WILLIAMSPORT, a growing settlement, on
the direct road from Philadelphia to Wheeling.
TWELVE miles lower is ELIZABETHTOWN, on the southeast side of the
river, containing about sixty houses. At this place much business is
done in boat and ship building. The “Monongahela Farmer,” and other
vessels of considerable burden, were built here, and, laden with the
produce of the adjacent country, were sent to the West-India
islands.[20]
EIGHT miles farther is MCKEESPORT, situated just below the junction of
the Yohiogany with the Monongahela. Many boats are built here for
transportation and the use of those who emigrate to the western
country. The place is growing in business, and most probably will rise
into considerable importance.
{35} HAVING received the Yohiogany, and waters from several creeks,
the river winds its course, with replenished stream, till it unites
with the Alleghany below Pittsburg, where it is about four hundred
yards wide.
BRADDOCK’S FIELD is at the head of _Turtle Creek_, seven miles from
Pittsburg. Here that brave, but unfortunate General engaged a party of
Indians, was repulsed, himself mortally wounded, and his army put to
flight, July 9, 1755.[21]
THE ALLEGHANY RIVER, by the Delaware Indians called “Alligewisipo,”[22]
rises on the western side of the mountain from which it derives its
name. Its head is near Sinemahoning Creek, a boatable stream that
falls into the Susquehannah; to which there is a portage of twenty-two
miles. Another branch tends towards Le Boeuf, whence is a portage of
only fifteen miles to Presq’ Isle, one of the finest harbours on Lake
Erie. This distance is a continued chesnut-bottom swamp, except about
one mile from Le Boeuf, and two miles from Presq’ Isle; and the road
between these two places, some years ago, for nine miles, was made by
a kind of causeway of logs.[23] There has been {36} lately an Act of
the Assembly of Pennsylvania for forming a turnpike over it.
PRESQ’ ISLE, which owed its name to the form of a large point of land
jutting into the Lake, and by its curvature making a very commodious
harbour capable of admitting vessels drawing nine feet of water, is
now called ERIE; having been laid out a few years since by the
Legislature of the State upon a large scale, and made the shire town
of Erie county. Commanding an extensive trade through the Lakes, and
then down the Alleghany, Ohio, and Missisippi, the situation of this
place was considered as very important, and great encouragement was
given to settlers. But a prevailing fever for some time retarded the
settlement. It is said, however, that this obstacle is now nearly, if
not entirely removed; and that the place rapidly increases in
population and importance.
A POST-OFFICE is established here, which receives the mail from
Philadelphia once every second week.
LE BOEUF, now called WATERFORD, is a growing settlement at the head of
the north branch of _French Creek_. A post-office is, also, kept here.
{37} THE old French fort Le Boeuf, was about two miles east from
_Small Lake_. This was formerly one of the western posts, but is now
evacuated.[24]
FORTY-EIGHT miles lower down on French Creek is MEADVILLE, a thriving
post-town, and the seat of justice for the counties of Warren and
Crawford, to the latter of which it belongs. It contains about one
hundred houses, and several stores; and is a place of considerable
business.[25]
IMMEDIATELY below the mouth of French Creek, at the place where it
unites with the northeasterly branch of the Alleghany river, is
FRANKLIN, a post-town, containing about fifty houses, and several
stores. It is the shire town for Venango county. The river is here two
hundred yards wide.
NEAR this was the antient post Venango, and on the scite of this town
was erected Fort Franklin in the year 1787, to defend the frontiers of
Pennsylvania from the depredations of the neighbouring Indians.
ABOUT one hundred miles lower down, as the river runs, or one hundred
and ninety-eight from Erie, is FREEPORT, on the mouth of Buffalo
Creek, and opposite {38} to KISKIMENETAS, a considerable branch of the
Alleghany river. The head waters of this branch are _Little Conemaugh_
and _Stone Creek_, which rise from the foot of the Alleghany mountain,
and pass in a N.N.W. direction through gaps in the Laurel Hill and
Chesnut Ridge. After their junction the principal stream is called
CONEMAUGH RIVER. But, having received _Black Lick_ from the N. E. and,
seventeen miles from its mouth, _Loyalhannon Creek_ from the S.S.E.
it is called the KISKIMENETAS RIVER. It is navigable for batteaux
forty or fifty miles, and good portages are found between it and the
Juniata and Potomac rivers. A batteau is a flat-bottomed boat, widest
in the middle, and tapering to a point at each end, of about 1500
weight burden; and is managed by two men with paddles and
setting-poles.
AT the mouth of _Sandy Creek_, a vessel of 160 tons burden was lately
launched, took in her cargo, and sailed for the West-Indies.
THE principal creeks and tributary streams with which the Alleghany
river is replenished, are delineated on the Map, I believe with a good
degree of accuracy; but a particular account of each it was not in
{39} my power to obtain. The junction of this river with the
Monongahela at Pittsburg has been already mentioned.
THE Alleghany is remarkable for the clearness of its waters and the
rapidity of its current; and the freshets in it are greater and more
sudden than those of its connubial stream.[26] It seldom happens that
it does not mark its course across the mouth of the Monongahela, with
whose turbid and sluggish waters it forms a very observable contrast.
It is curious, also, in the time of the spring floods to see the
Alleghany full of ice, and the Monongahela entirely free. These floods
are occasioned by the dissolution of the immense bodies of ice and
snow accumulated during winter in those northern regions through which
the river passes, and by the heavy falls of rain at the setting in and
breaking up of winter.
FRIDAY, _April 15_
WE this morning arrived at PITTSBURG, a post-town in Pennsylvania, and
the capital {40} of Alleghany County. It is built at the point of land
formed by the junction of the two rivers; and is in N. Lat. 40° 26′
15″, and Longitude (in time) 5 hours, 19 minutes, and 53 seconds W. of
Greenwich.
IMMEDIATELY on the point was erected the old French garrison _Du
Quesne_, built by M. de la Jonquier at the command of the Marquis du
Quesne, Governor of Canada, in 1754.[27] General Forbes, who took it
Nov. 25, 1758, built a new fort, which he called “Fort Pitt,” in honor
of the Earl of Chatham; adjacent to the former, but higher up the
Monongahela. It was formerly a place of some consequence in the annals
of frontier settlements; but fell into decay upon its being given up
by its founders. Being included in one of the manors of the Penn
family, it was sold by the proprietaries, and is now laid out in
house-lots as a part of the town of Pittsburg, which was built in the
year 1765.
THE local situation of this place is so commanding that it has been
emphatically called “the key to the Western Territory;” and it has
rapidly increased in population, business, and prosperity within a few
years past. It contains upwards of four hundred {41} houses, several
of them large and handsomely built of brick; forty-nine are occupied
as stores and shops. There are three congregations; an Episcopalian, a
Presbyterian, and a Seceder. The number of inhabitants is about two
thousand.
THERE are two printing-offices, each of which issue a weekly
news-paper; and many mechanics, who carry on most of the manufactures
that are to be met with in any other part of the United States. Two
glass-houses have been lately erected, and are wrought to great
advantage.[28] They make window-glass, bottles, &c. This is an
establishment of the first importance to this part of the country; for
the transportation of these brittle articles from Philadelphia over
the mountains has been attended with much hazard, as well as expense.
Articles of cabinet work are, also, made at Pittsburg of their native
woods, which supply many of the settlements on both sides of the Ohio
and Missisippi. The furniture made of the black walnut, wild cherry,
and yellow birch, is very strong and handsome, and admits of a
beautiful polish. The tinplate manufactory, that for cutting nails,
and the smiths’ shops for making axes and {42} farming utensils, find
a ready and extensive market for all their articles.
DRY goods in general are sold nearly as cheap as at Baltimore; other
goods, are, on account of the carriage, which is four dollars fifty
cents from Baltimore and five dollars pr. 100 lbs. from Philadelphia,
proportionably higher. The merchants here, as well as those of the
western country, receive their goods from Philadelphia and Baltimore;
but a small part of the trade being given to New-York and Alexandria.
The terms of credit are generally from nine to twelve months. The
produce which they receive of the farmers is sent to New Orleans; the
proceeds of which are remitted to the Atlantic States, to meet their
payments.
Most of the articles of merchandize brought in waggons over the
mountains in the summer season, and destined for the trade down the
river, are stored at this place, to be ready for embarkation. With
these a great many trading boats are laden, which float down the
river, stopping at the towns on its banks to vend the articles. In a
country, so remote from commerce, and of so great extent, where each
one resides {43} on his own farm, and has neither opportunity nor
convenience for visiting a market, these trading boats contribute very
much to the accommodation of life, by bringing to every man’s house
those little necessaries which it would be very troublesome to go a
great distance to procure.
AT and near this place, ship-building is an object of great attention.
Several vessels are now on the stocks; and three have been launched
this spring, from 160 to 275 tons burden.
THE principal navigation of the Ohio river is during the floods of the
spring and autumn. The spring season commences at the breaking up of
the ice in the Alleghany, which generally happens about the middle of
February, and continues for eight or ten weeks. The fall season is
occasioned by the autumnal rains in October, and lasts till about the
beginning of December, when the ice begins to form. But the times of
high-water can scarcely be called periodical; for they vary
considerably as the season is dry or rainy, and with the later setting
in or breaking up of winter. Sometimes, also, the falling of heavy
showers on the mountains, during the summer, will so {44} swell the
sources of the Monongahela as to supply a temporary sufficiency of
water for the purpose of navigation.
IN the time of the freshets the Ohio rises from fifteen to thirty
feet, and sometimes even higher; overflowing its banks to a very
considerable distance. The rise is generally sudden, often ten feet in
twenty-four hours. The increase is not regular. At times the water
will fall four or five feet, and then rise again. The flood maintains
its greatest height about a week or ten days, and then gradually
subsides, till the river is reduced to its usual depth. By spreading
over the flat lands a rich coating of leaves, decayed vegetables, and
loam, washed down by the rain from the sides of the hills, these
inundations greatly promote the fertility of the soil.
FORT FAYETTE, built a few years since, is within the limits of the
town of Pittsburg. It is erected on the banks of the Alleghany. At
present a garrison is kept there, which, for the most part, is made
head-quarters of the United States army.[29]
THE high ground back of the fort, called “Grant’s hill,” commands a
most extensive prospect, taking in a view of the two rivers {45} for
several miles above and below their junction.[30]
THE inhabitants use the water of the river here and down the Ohio for
drink and cookery, even in preference to the spring water from the
hills; for as yet they have not practised the digging of wells. At
first we were surprised at this preference; but they assured us that
the river water was more wholesome and generally much more palatable.
We were soon convinced that this must be the case: for, though the
river water receives a great deal of decayed wood, leaves, &c. from
the creeks and runs that empty into it, they are soon deposited on the
shallows, and the deeper places are very clear and fine. Even the
turbid water of the margin of the stream becomes pellucid by standing
in an open vessel over night, depositing its feculencies at the
bottom. But the spring water, issuing through fissures in the hills,
which are only masses of coal, is so impregnated with bituminous and
sulphureous particles as to be frequently nauseous to the taste and
prejudicial to the health.
WE observed several people near Pittsburg affected with a tumour on
the throat {46} like a wen. Inquiring into the cause of it, we were
informed that they imputed it to some effect of the climate under the
brows of the high mountains where they reside, and added that even
dogs and some other animals were subject to it. Indeed we saw a couple
of goats who had this uncomfortable appendage to their necks.
THE _Seneca Indian Oil_ in so much repute here is _Petroleum_; a
liquid bitumen, which oozes through fissures of the rocks and coal in
the mountains, and is found floating on the surface of the waters of
several springs in this part of the country, whence it is skimmed off,
and kept for use. From a strong vapour which arises from it when first
collected, it appears to combine with it sulphureous particles. It is
very inflammable. In these parts it is used as a medicine; and,
probably, in external applications with considerable success. For
chilblains and rheumatism it is considered as an infallible specific.
I suppose it to be the bitumen which Pliny describes under the name of
Naptha, Lib. II. ch. 105.
{47} TUESDAY, _April 19_
CROSSED the ferry over the Monongahela, opposite the glass-houses, and
pursued our journey.
THE country is very mountainous and broken, and the road extremely
rough and difficult. We were told that our’s was the first private
carriage that had ever passed it, having been but lately opened, and
used only by strong waggons and carts.
WE dined at CANNONSBURG, a post-town, pleasantly situated on rising
ground near the north side of the west branch of Chartier’s Creek. It
is 18 miles S. W. from Pittsburg, and 9 miles N. E. from Washington.
It contains about 100 houses, and has two congregations, and
meeting-houses; a Presbyterian and a Seceder. It has been settled but
twelve years, and already puts on the appearance of a long cultivated
region. There is an Academy here in a very flourishing state; and the
last session of the Assembly a charter was granted for a College.[31]
AT WASHINGTON, the chief town of a county of the same name in
Pennsylvania, situated on another branch of Chartier’s Creek, we
stopped to lodge.
{48} A COURT-HOUSE and a large building for public offices, of brick;
and a Gaol and an Academy, of stone, with a large number of handsomely
built dwelling-houses, give this town a very respectable appearance.
It seems to be a place of considerable business, and of thriving
manufactories and trade.[32]
WEDNESDAY, _April 20_
PASSED through ALEXANDRIA, a small town in Washington County,
Pennsylvania, on the Virginia line. It contains between fifty and
sixty dwelling-houses, and has a large and decent house for public
worship.[33] It is sixteen miles S. W. from Washington, and the same
distance N. E. from Wheeling.
WE dined at _Shepherd’s Mills_ on Wheeling Creek, having winded along
a most romantic valley between high mountains, and repeatedly crossed
[seventeen times in about five miles] the beautiful stream running
through it.[34]
THE proprietor of these mills resides in one of the best built and
handsomest stone houses we saw on this side of the mountains.[35]
QUITTING this secluded vale, we passed over a high chain of mountains,
whence we {49} overlooked the town of Wheeling, and enjoyed fine and
extensive views of a hilly and well-wooded country, intersected by the
river Ohio.--We then descended into the town.
WHEELING is a post-town, in Ohio County, Virginia, healthily and
pleasantly situated on the sloping sides of a hill gracefully rising
from the banks of the Ohio. It is laid out principally on one street;
and most of the houses are handsome, several being built with brick,
and some with faced stone.[36]
IT is twelve miles S. W. of West Liberty, and fifty-four miles from
Pittsburg; three hundred and thirty-two miles from Philadelphia, and
twelve miles above Grave Creek.
IT is increasing very rapidly in population and in prosperous trade;
and is, next to Pittsburg, the most considerable place of embarkation
to traders and emigrants, any where on the western waters. During the
dry season great quantities of merchandize are brought hither,
designed to supply the inhabitants on the Ohio river and the waters
that flow into it; as boats can go from {50} hence, when they cannot
from places higher up the river.
BOAT-BUILDING is carried on at this place to a great extent; and
several large keel boats and some vessels have been built.
OPPOSITE the town is a most beautiful island in the river, containing
about four hundred acres. Interspersed with buildings, highly
cultivated fields, some fine orchards, and copses of wood, it appears
to great advantage from the town, and forms a very interesting part of
the prospect. After the eyes have been strained in viewing the vast
amphitheatre of country all around, or dazzled with tracing the
windings of the river, they are agreeably rested and refreshed by the
verdure and beauty of Wheeling Island.
AT Wheeling we left our carriage, and took passage down the river in a
keel boat.
JUST below the town stands an old Fort, at the point of land formed
by the junction of Big Wheeling Creek and the Ohio river.
THE passage down the river was extremely entertaining, exhibiting at
every bend a change of scenery. Sometimes we were in the vicinity of
dark forests, which threw a solemn shade over us as we glided by;
sometimes we passed along overhanging {51} banks, decorated with
blooming shrubs which timidly bent their light boughs to sweep the
passing stream; and sometimes around the shore of an island which
tinged the water with a reflected landscape. The lively carols of the
birds, which “sung among the branches,” entertained us exceedingly,
and gave life and pleasure to the woodland scene. The flocks of wild
geese and ducks which swam upon the stream, the vast number of
turkies, partridges, and quails we saw upon the shore, and the herds
of deer or some other animals of the forest darting through the
thickets, afforded us constant amusement.
FROM Fish Creek, on the Virginia shore,[37] the country is flat on
the banks of the river; and, on the opposite side, generally broken
and rough, without much bottom-land; the mountains and hills mostly
rising contiguous to the edge of the river. But, below the islands
called “The Three Brothers,” the bottom-lands on the N. W. side are
extensive and rich.
[Illustration:
MAP
_of the State of_
OHIO
by
_Rufus I. Putnam_
_Surveyor General of the United States_
]
HERE fine cultivated plains and rising settlements charm the eye
amidst the boundless prospect of desolate wilds. When we see the land
cleared of those enormous trees {52} with which it was overgrown, and
the cliffs and quarries converted into materials for building, we
cannot help dwelling upon the industry and art of man, which by dint
of toil and perseverance can change the desert into a fruitful field,
and shape the rough rock to use and elegance. When the solitary waste
is peopled, and convenient habitations arise amidst the former
retreats of wild beasts; when the silence of nature is succeeded by
the buzz of employment, the congratulations of society, and the voice
of joy; in fine, when we behold competence and plenty springing from
the bosom of dreary forests,--what a lesson is afforded of the
benevolent intentions of Providence!
HAVING been part of three days upon the river, we arrived at MARIETTA,
in the State of Ohio, on Saturday morning, April 23d.
THE second week after our arrival, in consequence of three or four
rainy days, the water in the Ohio rose fifteen feet, and gave
opportunity for several vessels, which were waiting for a flood, to
set sail. Accordingly on May 4th the schooner “Dorcas and Sally,” of
70 tons, built at Wheeling and rigged at Marietta, dropped down the
{53} river. The following day there passed down the schooner “Amity,”
of 103 tons, from Pittsburg, and the ship “Pittsburg,” of 275 tons
burden, from the same place, laden with seventeen hundred barrels of
flour, with the rest of her cargo in flat-bottomed boats. In the
evening the brig “Mary Avery,” of 130 tons, built at Marietta, set
sail.[38]
THESE afforded an interesting spectacle to the inhabitants of this
place, who saluted the vessels as they passed with three cheers, and
by firing a small piece of ordnance from the banks.
WHILE at this place I collected several particulars respecting the
History and Geography of the State of Ohio, from General PUTNAM, Judge
GILMAN, Judge WOODBRIDGE, and others, who obligingly answered my many
inquiries.[39] The information thus obtained, together with that
which resulted from various visits to neighbouring towns and
excursions into the interior country, I have arranged by itself.
PART II
RETURNING
“What an excellent remedy, or, at least, what a palliative, for the
sufferings of the head and heart, is TRAVELLING. Alternate weariness
and rest leave no room for any train of ideas, and every thing
conspires to render us as happy as if our sufferings were ended.”
DUKE DE LA ROCHEFAUCALT LIANCOURT’S _Travels_.
Vol. I. p. 173.
JOURNAL
MARIETTA
I SOON found that the genial influences of a mild and salubrious
climate, aided by habitual exercise, daily improved my bodily
strength; while my mind, relieved of its cares, was constantly
occupied and amused with the new and interesting scenery and the
wonderful antiquities in this neighbourhood; and my spirits were
soothed and cheered by the kind attentions of hospitality and
friendship.