has been partly occasioned by waiting for the return of the
subscription papers, and partly by the length of time necessary to
complete the engravings and the impression.
To the candor of the Public,
I submit my work;
to the
providence and favour of ALMIGHTY GOD,
I commend my beloved Family;
and to the hopes,
not of the present,
but
of the future life,
I resign myself.
DORCHESTER }
_Jan. 1805._ }
PART I
JOURNEY OVER THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS INTO THE
STATE OF OHIO
“Sylvæ umbrosæ, montes excelsi, fertilesque valles, varias præbent
amœnitates ad Viatorem delectandum”
JOURNAL
THURSDAY, _April 7_, 1803
HAVING ridden this morning from Shippensburgh, a distance of eleven
miles, we stopped at STRASBURG to breakfast.[3]
AS we approached the Alleghany Mountains, their form and magnificence
became more and more distinct. We had, for several days past, seen
their blue tops towering into the sky, alternately hidden and
displayed by rolling and shifting clouds. Now, we ascertained that
some of them were quite covered with trees; but that the rocky and
bleak tops of others were naked, or scantily fringed with low savins.
THESE stupendous mountains seemed to stretch before us an impassable
barrier; but, at times, we could see the narrow winding {12} road by
which we were to ascend, though it apprized us of the fatigue and
difficulty to be encountered in the undertaking. Our apprehensions,
however, were somewhat abated by information that, the way, though
more steep, was not so rough, nor much more difficult than the
Connewago Hills we had already passed.
STRASBURG is a pleasant post-town in Franklin County, Pennsylvania. It
is situated at the foot of the BLUE MOUNTAIN, the first of the great
range of the Alleghanies. It contains about eighty houses, principally
built of hewn logs, with the interstices between them filled with flat
stones and mortar. They stand on a main street, which runs from north
to south. On the easterly side of the street, a little back of the
houses, is a fine spring of excellent water, issuing from several
fountains, over which are small buildings erected for the purpose of
preserving milk, butter, and provisions, during the heats of summer.
So copious is the issue of water, that it soon forms a considerable
and never failing brook, which, within the distance of half a mile,
carries a mill. This stream is the westerly branch of Conedogwinnet
Creek, which {13} falls into the Susquehannah opposite to Harrisburgh.
THE inhabitants of this village are subject to severe rheumatic
complaints, in consequence of the sudden changes of the weather in
this vicinity to the mountain.
Near this place is shewn a large fissure in the side of the mountain,
occasioned by the bursting of a water-spout. The excavation is deep.
Trees, and even rocks, were dislodged in its course.
The first mountain, which is three miles over, was not so difficult to
pass as we had apprehended. It is steep, but there are some convenient
resting places; and the westerly side is rendered easy of descent by
very judicious improvements in the condition and turnings of the road.
The surface is very rocky; and the trees towards the top are small,
and but thinly scattered. The stone which mostly prevails on its
surface is granite, more or less perfect. At the foot is a beautiful
and fertile valley, about half a mile wide, and fifteen miles long;
irrigated by fine springs, whose streams uniting form the pretty brook
that meanders through the fields and meadows of this enchanting place.
{14} WE stopped here awhile, to let our horses rest, and to bask in
the pleasant sunshine. Having been chilled with the air on the summit
of the mountain, we were pleased with inhaling the warm breeze of the
valley.
THE contrast, between the verdant meads and fertile arable ground of
this secluded spot, and the rugged mountains and frowning precipices
by which it is environed, gives the prospect we have contemplated a
mixture of romantic wildness and cultivated beauty which is really
delightful.
HENCE we crossed the _second mountain_, four miles over, and stopped
to dine at FANNETSBURG, a little village on a graceful eminence
swelling from the bosom of the vale. The houses are all built of wood,
mostly of hewn logs, except our Inn, which is a handsome edifice of
lime-stone.
IN the afternoon we crossed the _third ridge_, which is three miles
and an half over; in some places steep and difficult of ascent; and,
passing part of the valley below, reached a place called BURNT CABINS
to lodge. The settlement in this place is named from the destruction
of the first buildings erected here, at the time of the defeat of Col.
{15} Washington, at the Little Meadows in 1753.[4]
THE temporary buildings of the first settlers in the wilds are called
_Cabins_. They are built with unhewn logs, the interstices between
which are stopped with rails, calked with moss or straw, and daubed
with mud. The roof is covered with a sort of thin staves split out of
oak or ash, about four feet long and five inches wide, fastened on by
heavy poles being laid upon them. “If the logs be hewed; if the
interstices be stopped with stone, and neatly plastered; and the roof
composed of shingles nicely laid on, it is called a _log-house_.” A
log-house has glass windows and a chimney; a cabin has commonly no
window at all, and only a hole at the top for the smoke to escape.
After saw-mills are erected, and boards can be procured, the settlers
provide themselves more decent houses, with neat floors and ceiling.
FRIDAY, _April 8_
A RIDE of thirteen miles this morning brought us to the foot of
another mountain, called SIDELING HILLS, eight miles over. This is not
like the others, a distinct ridge, but a succession of ridges, with
long {16} ascent and descent on the main sides, and intermediate
risings and short vallies between.
IT was a fine clear morning when we began to ascend. As we advanced,
the prospect widened and became very interesting. The deep and gloomy
valley below was a vast wilderness, skirted by mountains of every hue
and form; some craggy and bare, and others wooded to the top: but even
this extensive wild pleased me, and gave scope to boundless
reflection.
QUITTING the elevated region to which we had reached, we descended
about half a mile, and then rose another and more lofty gradation.
Hence the view was still more diversified and magnificent, crowded
with mountains upon mountains in every direction; between and beyond
which were seen the blue tops of others more distant, mellowed down to
the softest shades, till all was lost in unison with the clouds.
AS we descended, we beheld the mists rising from the deep vallies, and
the clouds thickening around. It was cold and blustering, and we
expected an immediate tempest and rain: but, as we mounted the third
ridge, the clouds broke away over {17} our heads; and, as they
dispersed, the sun would shine between and give a gliding radiance to
the opening scene. We soon got beyond the clouded region, and saw the
misty volumes floating down to the vallies and encircling the lower
hills; so that, before we reached the summit, we had the pleasure of
looking abroad in an unclouded sky.
----“Here could we survey
The gathered tempests rolling far beneath,
And stand above the storm.”
THE whole horizon was fringed with piles of distant mountains. The
intermediate vallies were filled with clouds, or obscured with thick
mists and shade: but the lofty summits, gilded with the blaze of day,
lighted up under an azure heaven, gave a surprising grandeur and
brilliancy to the whole scene.
THE descent is in many places precipitous and rocky. At the bottom we
crossed the Juniata in a ferry-boat. Climbing the steep banks of the
river, our rout was along a range of hills exhibiting a succession of
interesting landscape. In many parts we were immersed in woods; then
again we came into open ground, and saw the winding {18} river just
below us, and the sides and tops of the mountains soaring above.
Sometimes we rode, for a considerable distance, on the banks of the
river; then we quitted it to mount a hill, and here again,
“The bordering lawn, the gaily flowered vale,
The river’s crystal, and the meadow’s green,
Grateful diversity, allure the eye.”
SUCH transitions yield some of the sweetest recreations which the
varied prospect of nature can afford.
AN accident in breaking our carriage, delayed us so long, that it was
evening before we arrived at our Inn. We rode thirty miles this day.
SATURDAY, _April 9_
WHILE our carriage is repairing we rest at Capt. Graham’s, who resides
in a delightful valley, belonging to Providence township, in Bristol
County.[5] His neat and commodious dwelling is principally built
with lime-stone, laid in mortar. The rooms and chambers are snug, and
handsomely furnished; and the accommodations and entertainment he
provides are the best to be met with between Philadelphia and
Pittsburgh.
{19} A FINE lawn spreads before the house, bordered on one part by a
meandering brook, and on the other by the Juniata river, from the
margin of which rise the steep sides of MOUNT DALLAS. The trees of
other times add hoary greatness to its brow, and the clouds which rest
in misty shades upon its head give it a frowning and gloomy
pre-eminence.
THE JUNIATA rises from two principal springs on the Alleghany
mountains; one of which is very near the top, and pours a copious
stream. It receives, also, supplies from many small rills in its
course, and working out a bed between the mountains, passes through a
gap in the Blue ridge, and empties into the Susquehannah, fifteen
miles above Harrisburg.
BACK of us the woods with which one of the mountains was clothed was
on fire. During the darkness of the night, the awfulness and sublimity
of this spectacle were beyond description; terror mingled with it,
for, as we were at no great distance, we feared that the shifting of
the wind would drive the flames upon us.
{20} MONDAY, _April 11_
WE resume our journey; cross the two branches of the Juniata, and
arrive at BEDFORD, the chief town of Bedford County in Pennsylvania,
to breakfast. It is regularly laid out, and there are several houses
on the main street built with bricks; even the others, which are of
hewn logs, have a distinguishing neatness in their appearance. The
Court House, Market House, and Record Office, are brick; the Gaol is
built of stone. The inhabitants are supplied with water brought in
pipes to a large reservoir in the middle of the town. On the northerly
skirt of the town flows Rayston creek, a considerable branch of the
Juniata.
BEDFORD was made an incorporate town in 1795. The officers of police
are two Burgesses, a Constable, a Town Clerk, and three Assistants.
Their power is limited to preserve the peace and order of the place.
UPON quitting the plain, we left a fertile soil clothed with verdure,
and a warm and pleasing climate; but, as we ascended the mountain, the
soil appeared more barren, and the weather became colder. Yet here and
there we met with a little verdant spot {21} around a spring, or at
the bottom of a small indenture in the sides of the mountain. Climbing
hence, the prospect widened. Deep vallies, embowered with woods,
abrupt precipices, and cloud-capt hills, on all sides met the view.
IN these mountainous scenes nature exhibits her boldest features.
Every object is extended upon a vast scale; and the whole assemblage
impresses the spectator with awe as well as admiration.
AFTER many a wearisome ascent, we arrived at Seybour’s, on the top of
the ALLEGHANY; and, having ridden thirty-one miles, were sufficiently
tired to accept even of the miserable accommodations this Inn afforded
for the night.
TUESDAY, _April 12_
ON leaving our lodging on “the highest of hills,” we had to descend
through six miles of rugged paths, over precipices, and among rocks,
and then along a miry valley, with formidable ascents in view.
THE Alleghany, which we had now crossed, is about fifteen miles over.
WE descried at a distance the towering ridges of mountains, beyond
many an intermediate height; some encircled with {22} wreaths of
clouds, and others pointed with fire kindled by the hunters, or
involved in curling volumes of smoke.
WE were the principal part of the day passing the valley, and mounting
LAUREL HILL, which is about three miles in direct ascent, and lodged
at Behmer’s near the top, after a journey of twenty-four miles.
AS the woods were on fire all around us, and the smoke filled the air,
we seemed to have ridden all day in a chimney, and to sleep all night
in an oven.
WEDNESDAY, _April 13_
THIS mountain has its name from the various species of _Laurel_ with
which it is clothed; (_Rhododendron Maximum_, _Kalmia Latifolia_, &c.)
There were several varieties now in flower, which made a most elegant
appearance.
OUR road, which at best must be rugged and dreary, was now much
obstructed by the trees which had fallen across it; and our journey
rendered hazardous by those on each side which trembled to their fall.
We remarked, with regret and indignation, the wanton destruction of
these noble forests. For more than fifty miles, to the west and north,
the mountains were burning. {23} This is done by the hunters, who set
fire to the dry leaves and decayed fallen timber in the vallies, in
order to thin the undergrowth, that they may traverse the woods with
more ease in pursuit of game. But they defeat their own object; for
the fires drive the moose, deer, and wild animals into the more
northerly and westerly parts, and destroy the turkies, partridges, and
quails, at this season on their nests, or just leading out their
broods. An incalculable injury, too, is done to the woods, by
preventing entirely the growth of the trees, many of which being on
the acclivities and rocky sides of the mountains, leave only the most
dreary and irrecoverable barrenness in their place.
WE took breakfast at Jones’ mill, six miles from the top of Laurel
Hill; dined at MOUNT PLEASANT, eleven miles farther; and riding five
miles in the afternoon, reached M’Kean’s to lodge.
WE left FORT LIGONIER, built by Gen. Forbes in 1758, to our right, and
crossed the CHESNUT RIDGE, a very rough and rocky mountain, the last
of the great range, on the _Glade road_. In dry seasons this is
considered as much better than what is called {24} “Braddock’s road;”
but, after heavy rains, it is almost impassable.
BY the rout we took over the mountains the whole distance from
Strasburg is one hundred and eighteen miles.
THE road is very rugged and difficult over the mountains; and we were
often led to comment upon the arduous enterprize of the unfortunate
General Braddock, by whom it was cut. Obliged to make a pass for his
army and waggons, “through unfrequented woods and dangerous defiles
over mountains deemed impassable,”[6] the toil and fatigue of his
pioneers and soldiers must have been indescribably great. But it was
here that his precursor, the youthful WASHINGTON, _gathered some of
his earliest laurels_.[7]
DURING the whole of this journey there are but a few scattered
habitations, of a very ordinary appearance. The lands, except in the
vallies, are of an indifferent quality, and offer but little
encouragement to the cultivator.
THE Alleghany mountains, which we had now passed, consist of several
nearly parallel ridges, rising in remote parts of {25} New-York and
New-Jersey, and running a southwesterly course till they are lost in
the flat lands of West-Florida. They have not a continued top, but are
rather a row or chain of distinct hills. There are frequent and large
vallies disjoining the several eminences; some of them so deep as to
admit a passage for the rivers which empty themselves into the
Atlantic Ocean on the East, and into the Gulph of Mexico on the South.
It is only in particular places that these ridges can be crossed.
Generally the road leads through gaps, and winds around the sides of
the mountains; and, even at these places, is steep and difficult.
THE rocks and cliffs of the mountains are principally grit, or
free-stone; but in several places, particularly towards the foot, the
slate and lime-stone predominate. Through the Glades, the slaty schist
and lime-stone is abundant. On Laurel Hill, and the mountains westward
of that, the fossil coal (_Lithanthrax_) abounds, and lies so near the
surface that it is discoverable in the gullies of the road, and among
the roots of trees that have been overthrown by the wind.
{26} THURSDAY, _April 14_
NOW that we have crossed all the mountains, the gradual and easy slope
of the ground indicates to us that we are approaching those vast
savannas through which flow “the Western waters.” The plain expands on
all sides. The country assumes a different aspect; and even its
decorations are changed. The woods are thick, lofty, and extremely
beautiful, and prove a rich soil. A refreshing verdure clothes the
open meadows. The banks of the brooks and river are enamelled with
flowers of various forms and hues. The air, which before was cold and
raw, is now mild and warm. Every breeze wafts a thousand perfumes, and
swells with the gay warblings of feathered choristers.
----“Variæ, circumque supraque,
Assuetæ ripis volucres et fluminis alveo,
Æthera mulcebant cantu, lucroque volabant.”
The painted birds that haunt the golden tide,
And flutter round the banks on every side,
Along the groves in pleasing triumph play,
And with soft music hail the vernal day.
THE long and tedious journey we had passed, through lonesome woods and
over rugged ways, contributed not a little, perhaps, {27} to enhance
the agreeableness of the prospect now before us. Certainly there is
something very animating to the feelings, when a traveller, after
traversing a region without culture, emerges from the depths of
solitude, and comes out upon an open, pleasant, and cultivated
country. For myself I must observe, that the novelty and beauty of the
romantic prospects, together with the genial influence of the vernal
season, were peculiarly reviving to my bodily frame for a long time
weakened by sickness, and exhilarating to my mind worn down by anxiety
and care.
WE were now upon the banks of the YOHIOGANY RIVER, which we crossed at
Budd’s ferry.[8]
THE name of this river is spelt, by some writers _Yohogany_, and
by others _Yoxhiogeni_; by General Braddock it was written
_Yaughyaughané_;[9] but the common pronunciation is Yokagany, and
the inhabitants in these parts call it “_the_ YOK _river_.” It rises
from springs in the Alleghany mountain, which soon unite their streams
in the valley, or, as it is called, “the great meadows,” below. The
point where the {28} north branch from the northward, the little
crossing from the southeast, and the great south branch, form a
junction, three miles above Laurel
[Illustration:
A Map of the
_Alleghany_
MONONGAHELA
_and_
YOHIOGANY
_Rivers_.
]
Hill, is called “the Turkey foot.”[10] With the accession of some
smaller runs, it becomes a very considerable and beautiful river.
Pursuing a northwesterly course, as it passes through a gap in Laurel
Hill, it precipitates itself over a ledge of rocks which lie nearly at
right angles to the course of the stream, and forms a noble cascade,
called “the Ohiopyle Falls.” Dr. Rittenhouse, who has published a
description of these falls, accompanied with an engraving, found the
perpendicular height of the cataract to be “about twenty feet, and the
breadth of the river two hundred and forty feet.[11] For a
considerable distance below the falls, the river is very rapid, and
boils and foams vehemently, occasioning a continual mist to arise from
it. The river at this place runs to the southwest, but presently winds
round to the northwest, and continuing this general course for thirty
or forty miles, it loses its name by uniting with the Monongahela,
which comes from the southward, and contains perhaps twice as much
water.”
{29} THE navigation of this river is obstructed by the falls and the
rapids below for ten miles; but thence to the Monongahela, boats that
draw but three feet of water may pass freely, except in dry seasons.
THE land in the vicinity of the river is uneven; but in the vallies
the soil is extremely rich. The whole region abounds with coal, which
lies almost on the surface.
WE garnished our bouquet to day with the beautiful white flowers of
the Blood root, (_Sanguinaria Canadensis_) called by the Indians
“Puccoon:” they somewhat resemble those of the Narcissus. This plant
grows in mellow high land. The root yields a bright red tincture, with
which the Indians used to paint themselves, and to colour some of
their manufactures, particularly their cane baskets.--The root
possesses emetic qualities.--Transplanted into our gardens, this would
be admired as an ornamental flower, while the roots would furnish
artists with a brilliant paint or dye, and perhaps be adopted into the
Materia Medica as a valuable drug.
AT Elizabethtown, about eighteen miles from Pittsburg, we crossed the
Monongahela.[12] Having collected particular information {30}
respecting this river and the Alleghany, and an account of the
settlements upon their banks, I insert it in this place.[13]
THE MONONGAHELA takes its rise at the foot of Laurel Hill in Virginia,
about Lat. 38° 30′ N. Thence meandering in a north by east direction
it passes into Pennsylvania, and at last, uniting its waters with
those of the Alleghany at Pittsburg, forms the noble Ohio.
THE settlements on both sides of this river are fine and extensive,
and the land is good and well cultivated. Numerous trading and family
boats pass continually. In the spring and fall the river seems covered
with them. The former, laden with flour, whiskey, peach-brandy, cider,
bacon, iron, potters’ ware, cabinet work, &c. all the produce or
manufacture of the country, are destined for Kentucky, and New
Orleans, or the towns on the Spanish side of the Missisippi. The
latter convey the families of emigrants, with their furniture, farming
utensils, &c. to the new settlements they have in view. These boats
are generally called “Arks;” and are said to have been invented by Mr.
{31} Krudger, on the Juniata, about ten years ago. They are square,
and flat-bottomed; about forty feet by fifteen, with sides six feet
deep; covered with a roof of thin boards, and accommodated with a
fire-place. They will hold from 200 to 500 barrels of flour. They
require but four hands to navigate them; carry no sail, and are wafted
down by the current.
THE banks of the river opposite to Pittsburg, and on each side for
some distance, or rather the high hills whose feet it laves, appear to
be one entire body of coal. This is of great advantage to that
flourishing town; for it supplies all their fires, and enables them to
reserve their timber and wood for ship building and the use of
mechanicks.
MORGANTOWN, which is one hundred and seven miles from Pittsburg, may
be considered as the head of navigation on the Monongahela.[14]
THIS is a flourishing town, pleasantly situated on the east side of
the river. It contains about sixty dwelling-houses, a Court-house, and
stone Gaol. It is the shire town for the counties of Harrison, {32}
Monongalia, Ohio, and Randolph, in Virginia.
EIGHT miles below this town the CHEAT RIVER enters; three or four
miles within the Pennsylvania line. “It is 200 yards wide at its
mouth, and 100 yards at the Dunkard’s settlement fifty miles higher;
and is navigable for boats except in dry seasons. There is a portage
of thirty-seven miles from this river to the Potomac at the mouth of
Savage river.”[15] [16]
TWO miles lower down it receives the waters of _Dunkard’s Creek_ on
the west side; and ten miles lower _George’s Creek_ joins it on the
east. Just below the mouth of this creek is situated NEW GENEVA, a
thriving post-town, a place of much business, and rendered famous by
the glass-works in its vicinity, which not only supply the
neighbourhood with window-glass, bottles, &c. but send large
quantities down the river. There is also a papermill, and a
manufactory for muskets, in the place. Arks, and other boats are built
here.[17]