The latter part of July found the frigate again moored off Yerbabuena,
in the waters of San Francisco. A number of us had long anticipated the
pleasure of a trip to the northward; and a fine prize schooner, the
Julia, being unemployed, she was accordingly made ready, and, early one
morning, our party, with a few trifling kits, were all snugly stowed
away on board. With the broad pennant fluttering at the main, and all
sails spread, we soon lost sight of the anchorage. The Julia's cabin had
four berths sufficiently capacious for grown people, and two others,
which were, in reality, intended for minors, or any adult under three
feet in length; a settee ran crosswise, and the intermediate space
filled in with a cozy table. Our mess amounted to seven, and the caterer
had been careful to provide servants and cooks, cold hams and tongues,
potted oysters and biscuits, silver-topped bottles of ale and stout,
cases of pale sherry, bundles of havannas, and what with a haunch or two
of venison, and lots of edibles, indiscriminately packed in huge
baskets, we counted upon a sufficiency of _viveres_ to allay thirst and
famine for a week to come. Indeed, there's nothing answers so well as a
profusion of "provender," to promote good humor and agreeable
conversation. Major Dalgetty understood this practically and
philosophically. Guitars, pretty spirituelle women, babbling brooks and
shady lawns, with a bowl of chicken salad, do very well when one goes a
picknicking in an omnibus, or canal boat; but when it is necessary to
rough it a bit in open air and unknown regions, we require something
more substantial.
Passing through the inner straits, above Angel Island, we entered the
bay of San Pablo, or Sinoma, and, with a pleasant breeze, steered for
the upper shores. It is a vast, circular sheet of water, twelve miles in
diameter, fenced in from the ocean, on one side, by a rim of broken
hills, closely abutting upon the bay; while to the north and east, the
land trends easily away, in less abrupt elevations, into the interior,
leaving a base of wide, fertile plains and valleys, verging upon the
shores.
A noble ship channel takes the direction of the eastern coast, leading
into the straits of Carquinez, an opening quite similar to the outer
passage from the sea. Our course lay in an opposite point, and, turning
to the left, we sailed over shallower depths, until late in the
afternoon, when, finding there was no water to spare betwixt the keel
and the bottom, we dropt anchor, two miles from the land. The barge was
presently manned, and leaving our butler, Mr. Bill Moulden, to exercise
his care and corkscrew over the comestibles, we rowed to the entrance of
a creek, where, after winding about in the serpentine tracks of an inlet
for, at the least, ten miles, we at last jumped on shore at the
_embarcadera_ of Sinoma. The gentleman to whom we were bound, not being
apprised of our coming, but two horses were to be procured, and the rest
of us trudged along on foot. The road was perfectly level, walking good,
and, with sparkling stars for lanterns, in an hour we found ourselves at
the residence of General Vallejo, were ushered through a spacious _porte
cocher_, into a large _sala_, and graciously received by the lady of the
mansion, whose husband chanced to be absent on important business. It
may be as well to state here, that Vallejo had been the most important
personage in Upper California, both from family influence, intelligence
and wealth. On the commencement of the war, notwithstanding the
annoyance he had experienced from the Bear party, he espoused the cause
of the United States; and, being blessed with a clear head and much
discernment, saw at a glance the benefit derivable for California by a
connection with a staunch Republic, in preference to letting the
territory languish under the misrule of Mexico, or, perhaps, at some
future period, to maintain the needy soldiery of a foreign monarchy. I
believe myself within the mark, in estimating the General's landed
property at one hundred square leagues, embracing much of the best
agricultural and grazing districts in the country, with many of the most
eligible sites for commercial ports on the waters of San Francisco. The
little Pueblo of Sinoma stands with its back resting against a ridge of
high hills, shutting in, on one side, a lovely plain, near fifty miles
in extent, and presenting much the same pleasing aspect of golden lakes
of wild oats and luxuriant oaks, as grace the vale of Santa Clara. The
principal dwellings and barracks form three sections of a square--all,
except one edifice, owned and occupied by the relations and family of
our absent host. His residence was the largest--as usual, built of
adobies--two hundred feet long, of two stories, having a tier of
balconies above. The apartments we occupied below were well furnished,
walls papered, books and cases, prints and mirrors in profusion. We were
somewhat surprised, not believing so much refinement, in that which is
termed modern civilization, existed in the territory. The Senora
herself, assisted by a well-behaved youth, did the honors of the supper
table; and after we had made a hearty meal, she retired and left us to
the enjoyment of chateau margaux and cigars. During supper we were
complimented by a serenade, sung by a number of Russians and Germans,
whose harmonious chorus, and songs of "Faderland," almost carried us
away to the Rhine. We sought the music room, shortly after, where the
little daughters of our entertainers were performing on the piano. They
had been properly instructed, and performed remarkably well; besides,
they were pretty, becomingly attired, and, what is still more
commendable, exceedingly well bred. Towards midnight we said _buenas
noches_, and sought our beds, where, if we had been previously a little
astonished to find ourselves surrounded with elegance, we soon had
reason to return to realities, by the aid of the pincer-like stings of
the curse of the country, _pulgas_, who, finding us tender and
palatable, hopped about us for the remainder of the night. To evade
their sharp bites, I tried to smoke myself insensible, and would no
doubt have succeeded in deluding myself into slumber, had not my repose
been again interrupted by a loud altercation between the Admiral's
aid-de-camp and Captain Swayback, of the dragoons, who chanced to be
billetted together. The former, through abstraction, had swathed
himself, like to an Egyptian mummy, in all the clothes, and persisted in
occupying the centre of the bed; moreover, hinting a disinclination to
pass the night with any gentleman perfumed with tobacco. Upon this, the
captain became jocosely indignant; and although admitting that, in his
varied hardships and travels, he had been necessitated to bivouac many a
time under worse auspices, yet he still had a mortal antipathy to share
his pillow with a man; so, he betook himself to the floor, where, with
blanket, an inverted chair for pillow, and a brilliant cigar illumining
either corner of his month, he rendered the room dense with smoke until
daylight.
Early on the morrow we took a pleasant ramble about the village, and
were individually hugged by a tame grizzly cub, who was altogether
more ardent in his affectionate embraces than our recent acquaintance
required--thence to breakfast on the accustomed _olla podrida_,
which is a stereotyped mess everywhere with Spaniards and their
descendants--though at times differently prepared--here it was flanked
by _frijoles_. The meal finished, horses were standing, ready
caparisoned, at the door, and whilst my friends amused themselves to
their fancy, I seized a rifle, and in company with a young American,
started on a hunt. We had ridden a league over the valley, when we
perceived a small herd of antelopes; but they descried us, too, a long
way off, and not without much trouble and hard riding, did I succeed in
striking one with a bullet, flying, as I may say; for never before had I
beheld such nimble heels. Another was wounded, also, but, with his
companions, reached the highlands and escaped. The first had his fore
leg nearly severed from his shoulder, but, notwithstanding it traversed
around in his flight like a wheel, he still ran good four leagues before
we approached near enough to kill him. We soon packed the meat on a
horse, which is done by removing the entrails, breaking the back bone,
and doubling the animal, horns and tail; then it is secured to the
saddle. Two may be carried this way; but wo to the hunter, if the sharp,
hard hoofs happen to prick his horse, the probability being that the
rider will describe a summerset. Highly pleased with the exploit, we
sent our prize to the _embarcadera_. The antelope abounds in great
numbers in the vicinity of Sinoma. They pass more evenly over the ground
than deer; are far swifter, and extremely shy. We all reassembled at the
Puebla in good time and condition for dinner, which passed pleasantly,
and then taking leave of our handsome, hospitable hostess, who
expressed much regret at the absence of Don Guadalupe, her husband, we
mounted fresh horses and turned our backs on the little village of
Sinoma, all highly pleased with the visit. Embarking again at the head
of the creek, with a strong favoring tide, we reached our floating
domicile at dark. Fatigue of the day made heavy eyelids, and supper was
barely despatched, before sleep shrouded us in the land of dreams.
Weighing at sunrise the next day, with light winds, and charming
weather, we bore away to the Carquinez Straits. This passage lies on the
eastern face of San Pablo; it may be a mile and a half wide, and we
found a broad ship channel, ranging from twelve to five fathoms
soundings, all the way to the head of the straits, where we anchored the
Julia, in twenty-five feet water, within a bound of the bank. Our
position was at the site of an embryo city, called Benecia. The
selection was made by Doctor Semple, and the land owned by Vallejo, in
compliment to whose wife the place was named. In point of natural
advantages, I know of no more eligible situation: the country rises in
gentle sweeping undulations for some miles, terminating quite around by
a lofty amphitheatre of hills; the climate is equable and salubrious,
with a rich and fertile soil, and plenty of timber, and it is said coal
of a superior quality exists in the vicinity. At the time of our visit a
mania was raging in California about lands, and lots, and although
nothing had been attempted in Benecia, except a very pretty plan on
paper, and three miserable little board sheds, with a flat boat to ferry
travellers across the straits; yet from being the highest navigable
point, where large vessels can conveniently discharge or load from the
main rivers of the San Francisco, that pour into the shoal Bay of
Sossun, we predicted that eventually Yerbabuena might play a relative
Sandy Hook to a New York; _then_, nothing was known of the El Dorado
fifty miles above: had we been aware of it we might have taken the
little city off the Doctor's hands; for now, with its manifest
advantages, and enormous influx of emigration flowing towards
California, there can be no bounds placed upon its progress.
We made a hunting trio during the day, crossed to the opposite shore,
but not being acquainted with the haunts of game, and being a little
timid about the prospect of meeting a grizzly, we did not venture into
the interior; and after a long and arduous tramp over the steep spurs of
heights that entrenched boldly upon the straits, we saw no opportunity
for firing our rifles, being only repaid by a treat of delicious melons
found at an isolated rancho.
At nine the following morning we bid adieu to Benecia, with the credit
of having been the largest vessel, and only one of war, that had ever
floated so far on the broad bosom of San Francisco. With this plume in
our castors we were obliged to be content, as the Admiral could not
spare time to explore further. With an ebb tide, and prevalent west
wind, we tacked boldly from side to side; before noon had cleared the
straits, and entering a narrow channel that borders on the Tulares
Valley, we ran between Mares Island and the main, and again came to
anchor. Here we tarried all day, in hopes of filling the Julia with elk;
but although the low banks and extensive fields of reeds are famed as
the resort of immense bands, yet, for a wonder, there was not a
four-legged animal to be seen. Fowling-pieces, however, came into
requisition, and we filled our bags with mallard, curlew, and plover;
these tit bits came in seasonably, for the antelope, which by the way
proved most excellent, was literally on his last leg. When the ebb tide
again made, at night, we lifted the anchor once more, homeward bound,
and the next afternoon were again comfortably kicking heels under the
mess mahogany of the frigate.