On the 26th of July, 1847, the Columbus, seventy-four, bearing the
pennant of Commodore Biddle, sailed from San Francisco for the United
States, leaving the flag of the Commander-in-Chief, flying on board the
razee Independence. By this time most of the ships composing the
squadron had either rendezvouzed in Monterey or Yerbabuena. Central and
Upper California had become perfectly tranquil, with the exception of
some trifling difficulties which had arisen in San Diego, between the
New York Volunteers and the natives. But these were speedily settled;
and a sufficient force being now ready for service, the preparations,
which had already been too long delayed, were actively begun for the
purpose of attacking the Mexican coast. The crews of the different
vessels were constantly exercised in companies and battalions for
service on land: they were taught to march and counter-march, in line,
platoons, and column; to throw themselves into squares; were thoroughly
instructed in the manual drill; and although they occasionally knocked
their broad-brimmed tarpaulins off at "Shoulder arms," yet upon the
whole they did extremely well for sailors, and on the weekly field-days
on shore, went through the evolutions in a very creditable manner.
Early in September we returned to Monterey. The bright green verdure
that clothed the hill sides, the beautiful mantle of green and flowers
of spring, had long since paled beneath the blaze of summer. No rain had
fallen; the clear rills that murmured in every gully were absorbed by
the parched earth. The broad lagoons near the beach were rapidly
receding, and mud had been converted into dust. And although vandals
were making the axe resound in murderous blows upon the picturesque
bolls of fine trees that decked the slopes, there was still sufficient
delight for the eye to rest upon in the lovely undulating landscape
encircling the shores of the bay.
Monterey was rapidly increasing, and houses of a more substantial build
than the paper-like structures of Yerbabuena, were rising in the
streets. The fort on the hill was nearly completed, mounting a numerous
battery of long twenty-fours; and in the rear were stone magazines,
barracks, and quarters; so that the natives, if they entertained doubts
before, were now convinced that their invaders had resolved to remain. A
salutary system of police had also been established in the town--the
Reverend Alcalde was a terror to evil doers. Woe betide the pockets of
those who slaughtered cattle at their door-steps, or the rollicking
gentry vaulting at full speed through the streets, or drunken Indians,
or quiet persons in back rooms, amusing themselves at monte--for down
came that ivory-headed cane--"Alcalde de Monterey"--like a talisman; and
with a pleasant smile he would sweep the white and yellow dross into his
capacious pockets. Others were mulcted in damages, or made to quarry
stone for the school-house; but, whether native or foreigner, the rod
fell impartially on their pockets, and all, more or less, contributed
towards the new Californian college. These measures were not relished at
first by the natives, but in the end they discerned the wisdom of a
prompt and just administration of the laws, and became devoted admirers
of the indefatigable Alcalde.
About this time a more serious event occurred. Two Indians were charged
with the murder of a foreigner; a woman, who was their accomplice,
betrayed them; they were tried by jury, selected equally from natives
and strangers; the crime was clearly and indubitably proved--the
offenders were condemned to be hung. The punishment was unknown in
California, and a large concourse of persons assembled around the
gallows, which was erected within sight of the town. Attended by two
priests, the criminals, who seemed perfectly indifferent to their
fate--in fact many thought rather pleased at being the observed of all
observers--were placed beneath the beam, and the cords finally adjusted
by the pious fathers. At the signal, down came the platform, and with it
the murderers; but, by some unaccountable fatality, both knots slipped,
and with the exception of being a little "choky" in the face, they
sustained no injury. In a moment one of the priests mounted a horse, and
galloped to the Governor's, urging a reprieve on the plea of a special
dispensation of Providence--that the criminals had been hung once, and
were consequently entitled to pardon. The philanthropic padre might
better have saved his ride and breath, for Colonel Mason informed him,
that in case these villains were not executed, Providence might
interfere with the ropes for ever after, and moreover the sentence was
to hang them until dead. Meanwhile the sheriff on the ground had
replaced the halters with unslippable hitches, as he observed that they
would receive "particular fits;" and soon after they were properly
worked off, and swung, dangling, lifeless figures, within their timber
frame. This event generated a feeling of bitter hostility on the part of
the Catholic clergy towards the local government, although generally
conceded by the Catholics themselves to be entirely uncalled for and
unreasonable.
On Saturday evenings, crowds of these degraded Indians, of both sexes,
after laboring during the week, and feeding on locusts or grasshoppers,
were accustomed to congregate on the outskirts of the town, where, with
gaming and arguadiente, they were enabled to remain torpid all the
following day. Their favorite amusement was a game called
_escondido_--hide and seek--played with little sticks; and their skill
was exerted by trying to discover in whose hands they were: seating
themselves on the ground, around a huge blazing fire, separate parties
were ranged on opposite sides; then beginning a low, wild chaunt, moving
their bodies to and fro, groping with their hands within the serapas
before them, until the perspiration starts in streams down their naked
sides, after a strange succession of deep, harsh, gutteral grunts and
aspirations, they suddenly terminate their exertions by giving a sharp
yell, and pointing to one of the opposite party, who, if rightly
detected, pays forfeit. When one set of players becomes exhausted,
others supply their places, and thus they keep it up the live-long
night.
Among the Californians an agreeable pastime, much in vogue, is the
_merendar_--Angliee, pie-nie. They are usually given, on the patron
saint's day of some favorite senora or senorita, by their admirers. A
secluded, pleasant spot is selected a few miles away from the presidio,
where provisions, wine and music are collected beforehand; then each
cavalier, with arm thrown affectionately around his sweetheart, on the
saddle before him, seeks the rendezvous. Guitars and choral
accompaniments soon are heard, and the _merenda_ begins, and is kept up
with the greatest possible fun and spirit: dancing, frolicking, drinking
and love-making. There are two or three singular dances of the country:
one, called the _Son_, where a gentleman commences, by going through a
solo part, to quick, rattling music, then waving a handkerchief to a
damsel, who either pays the same compliment to another favored swain, or
merely goes through a few steps, without relieving the first comer, who,
in turn, is obliged to continue the performance until a lady takes pity
for him. It not unfrequently happens, that when a particularly graceful
girl is on the floor, making her little feet rapidly pat the ground,
like castanets, to the inspiriting music, that some enthusiastic _novio_
will place his sombrero on her head, which can never be reclaimed
without a handsome present in exchange. But, Heaven help us! the pranks
and mischief indulged in on the return home; the tricks and tumbles,
laughter and merriment; even the horses appear to enter into the play,
and when a cluster of gay lads and lassies have jostled one another from
the saddles, the waggish, animals, fully appreciating the joke, stop of
their own accord. The last affair of this kind I attended, was given by
the best-hearted little fellow in the territory; and I am prepared to
prove it--Senor Verde--he was an universal favorite, as well with old as
young; for he was at different times taking a short _pasear_ on every
horse, laughing with the madres, and kissing the shy doncellas--_valgame
dios_--but I had work in getting him into Monterey that night, for my
cavallo carried weight--besides a big overgrown dame and myself, Verde
hung on to the tail.
We were many weeks in Monterey, and I passed a large portion of leisure
time either hunting with Juaquinito, or chatting and smoking during the
afternoons with our excellent friends, the army men, at the Fort. But at
last we began to tire of foggy mornings, damp nights, tough beef,
lounging under the Consul's piazza, sweltering dust, catching fleas,
playing monte, and fandangos at Carmelo. The time was drawing near for
our departure. The ships were provisioned and ready for service. Jack
had become quite a soldier, and we consoled ourselves with the
prospective excitement of a descent upon the Mexican coast.