VOYAGE ON THREE GREAT LAKES, FROM AUGUST 2ND, 7 A.M., TO AUGUST 22ND, 9
A.M.
As the warm rays of the morning sun were lighting up the scene with a
radiance, glorious to behold, we bade farewell to Buffalo which, being
already in some distance, soon became entirely invisible.
Indescribable was our amazement when we viewed once more the waters of
_Lake Erie_, whose raging billows had betrayed to us, only a few days ago,
the unruly nature of a boisterous inland-sea.
Now, as we were gliding on its surface, the lake presented an appearance
quite novel to us; being almost motionless, a true emblem of tranquillity
and peacefulness. Only now and then a gentle zephyr rippled its level
which, reflected in the sunbeams, appeared like an undulating mass of
silver. The cloudless heavens, clad in their brightest hue of azure blue,
and illumined by the golden sun, painted a great variety of fine images of
light and shade on the limpid waters beneath. The sky seemed to reflect
the water and the water the sky, both gleaming in the sunshine.
On our right, the lake made the impression of stretching into endless,
unlimited space; on our left, however, we could distinguish romantic
hills, decorated by massive groves, with crossing and intersecting
promontories, and fair valleys tenanted by numerous flocks and herds, that
seemed to wander unrestrained through the rich pastures. The luxuriant
landscape was intercepted here and there by undulating slopes, covered
with sand, whose light color contrasted with the verdure of vales and
hillocks.
Speeding along, we came abreast of _Dunkirk_, a lake-port town in
Chautauqua County, N.Y., situated on a small bay in Lake Erie, forty miles
southwest of Buffalo. The town, which has a population of over 5,000,
occupies an elevated and favorable position on the lake. Its industries
comprise oil refineries, and the manufacture of flour and iron-work.
After proceeding on our voyage for some hours, we viewed--located in a
natural bay--the harbor of _Erie_, the capital of Erie County, Penn. The
port is protected by a breakwater three and one-half miles long.
The principal shipments that leave this harbor, are coal, iron, and
petroleum; an important trade being carried on with the Canadian
lake-ports.
The streets of the city are spacious and laid out with great regularity.
To its prominent buildings belong the postoffice, the opera house, the
city hospital, the court house, and the orphan asylum. Erie contains
nearly 20,000 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in iron manufacture.
The large supply of water required for the factories is obtained from the
lake by powerful engines, which force it to a tower 200 feet high, whence
it is distributed through the mains. The chief industries developed here,
are petroleum refineries and leather factories.
It was at Erie, that Commodore Perry equipped the vessels which in 1813
defeated the British fleet on Lake Erie. In the year 1795 the town was
laid out, and in 1851 it received a city charter.
Still fascinated by the attractions of the everchanging landscape along
the southern coast, we had forgotten that _fugit hora_; for we were
greatly surprised to perceive the approaching twilight, indicating the
parting day, and the white beams of the young crescent just beginning to
steal over the lately flushed and empurpled scene.
Therefore, the "Marguerite" was cabled to the dock, about two miles from
the village of _Conneaut_.
A fresh and palpitating evening air invited us to a walk along the coast
of the beautiful inland-sea. Adopting an unfrequented path through a vast
plain of sand, we found the charming scenery enhanced by a solemn
stillness. All nature slumbered.
Here, witnessing a magnificent prospect in this lovely solitude, we
experienced one of those seasons when the atmosphere is so surcharged with
luxury, that every pore of the body becomes an ample gate for sensation to
flow in; and one has simply to sit still and to be filled.
Seated near the shore, we delivered ourselves up to the exquisite
loveliness around us; and when returning on board the yacht, the
impression of the superb panorama tarried with me, even into the realm of
Morpheus; so that I rose on the following morning with the remembrance of
delicious dreams.
When I came on deck, the air seemed to be sweet with perfumes; the water
sparkled brightly, and the blue sky hung cloudless over the placid mirror
of Lake Erie.
Thus, favored by the weather, the majestic steam-yacht resumed her voyage.
After the lapse of two hours the harbor of Ashtabula came in sight, and at
about 10 o'clock we approached Fair Point. The noon-tide of the summer day
was past, as we were made acquainted with the fact, that the rising towers
and pinnacles, to be discerned in the distance on our left, pertained to
the beautiful "Forest City," next to Cincinnati the largest and most
important city in the State of Ohio.
_Cleveland_ is built on both sides of the Cuyahoga River, which is here
crossed by several bridges. It is located chiefly on a plain from fifty to
100 feet above the lake, of which a magnificent view is thus obtained.
Leaving East River Street, where our floating home was destined to remain,
I undertook an excursion through the greater portion of the city; not
solely for the purpose of viewing the regular streets, generally from
eighty to 100 feet wide, and lined with maple trees, but with the design
to see a friend--Miss Lina Uhl--a teacher in one of the thirty public
schools; holding a prominent position as the president of a teachers'
association in Cleveland. She is the niece of Mr. C.F. Hild, from
Schenectady, N.Y.
Having previously informed her of my intention to visit her native city, I
was already expected, and very cordially received at her hospitable home.
After I had spent some very pleasant hours there, my friend accompanied me
on my return to the dock. _En route_ she made me acquainted with many
points of interest, which are so numerous in the "Forest City." Thus, she
called my attention to the charming Euclid Avenue, a street several miles
long, considered to be one of the most extensive and picturesque within
the limits of the United States. Here Cleveland's aristocracy built their
substantial mansions and luxurious villas, encircled by tasty, park-like
gardens. Of special interest to the visitor is the monument erected in
memory of James Abram Garfield, the twentieth president of the Republic,
born in Orange, Ohio, in 1831. Being in office but a short time, he was
shot by a disappointed office-seeker, Charles J. Guiteau, in 1881. This
sad event, which forms a thrilling incidence in the history of the Union,
is comparable with the recent death of Carter Harrison, mayor of Chicago,
whose assassination by Prendergast, under similar circumstances, on
Saturday, 8.30 P.M., October 28, 1893, created a profound sensation and
great excitement.
Monumental Park, near the center of the city, contains ten acres, divided
into four squares by the extension of Ontario and Superior Streets.
Besides a fountain, and other attractive objects, the park is adorned by a
statue of Commodore Perry, erected in 1860 in commemoration of his victory
on Lake Erie in 1813. It is of Italian marble, eight feet high, and stands
upon a granite pedestal twelve feet in altitude. The most noteworthy
buildings are the postoffice, the city hall, the county court house, and
the Cleveland medical college. The Union Railway depot, an immense
structure of stone near the lake shore, is one of the largest of the kind
in the United States.
Cleveland was founded in 1796, and named in honor of General Moses
Cleveland of Connecticut, who then had charge of the surveying of this
region. It was an important point in the war of 1812, incorporated as a
village in 1814, and as a city in 1836. The number of its inhabitants is
estimated to be more than 200,000. The "Forest City" has an extensive
trade in copper and iron ore, shipped from the Lake Superior mining
regions, as well as in coal, petroleum, wool, and lumber, received by
railroad, canal, and lake transportation. A sojourn of at least one week
is requisite in order to acquaint one's self with all the attractions of
Cleveland, with its unrivaled position and manifold beauties of scenery.
In fact, our honorable President can be proud to share his name with this
delightful place; and, in return, the "Forest City" may consider it an
honor to be the namesake of Grover Cleveland, the present leader of the
powerful Republic.
On Friday morning, as soon as the dawning day dispatched its first rays
over Cleveland, we resumed our voyage on Lake Erie. The flakes of light
were falling every moment faster and broader among the spires and towers
of the city of which we gradually lost sight. They were only discernible
as long, gray shadows on the elevated lake shore. The mists were couched
in quiet masses, iridescent with the morning light, upon the breasts of
the remote hills, over whose leagues of massy undulations, they melted
into the robe of material light, fading, lost in the increasing lustre,
again to reappear in the higher heavens, while their bases vanished into
the unsubstantial and mocking blue of the lake below. The dispersing
wreaths of white clouds gradually gave place to the pale azure of the
horizon. The level of the beautiful inland-sea was bathed in the glorious
sunlight and the whole heaven--one scarlet canopy--colored the limpid
waters with an exquisite, roseate tint; thus giving a redoubled splendor
to this fine panorama.
While the midday sun was sending forth his warm rays, we came abreast of
Marblehead, and speeding along we reached Green Island at 1 o'clock.
Having passed Barr Point Lighthouse we chose our halting place on the
Canadian shore near _Amherstburg_, a small village pleasantly situated on
the Detroit River.
As the yacht was fastened to the dock, the heavens were yet illumined by
the parting day; which gave us opportunity to admire the superb spectacle
on the opposite shore. Its southwestern extremity was adorned with
numerous verdant islands of various size and form; some stretching for
miles in length--the largest containing a circumference of fourteen miles;
several so small that they seemed destined for a race of fairies; others
in clusters; and some like beautiful vestals, in single loveliness, whose
holy vows ordained them forever to live alone.
The last streak of light had faded from the west, and a pale lustre
kindling in the eastern portions of the sky, became brighter and brighter
till the white falcated moon was lifted up above the horizon; while
uncountable stars appeared to reflect their brilliancy in the waters
below. This delightful scene around us, so perfectly filled and satisfied
our sense of beauty that we reluctantly gave up our comfortable seats on
the stern-deck, notwithstanding an advanced time of night.
On the following morning the sun rose in his clearest splendor. As soon as
that flood of luminous rays which constitutes day, was flowing on the
crystalline sea, we departed from this romantic country scene in Canada.
Sailing along, we approached the terminus of our voyage on Lake Erie,
which is considered the most dangerous of all the Great Lakes as to
navigation, owing to its comparative shallowness--its mean depth, being
about ninety feet--and the consequent liability to a heavy ground swell.
The peculiar features of this body of water are its inferior depth and the
clayey nature of its shores, which are generally low; on the south,
however, bordered by an elevated plateau, through which the rivers have
cut deep channels.
Though the lake possesses but a small number of good harbors, the amount
of traffic on its waters, and on the connecting railways is enormous.
This inland-sea, presenting us only sights of utmost quietude and peace,
has been the scene of a naval engagement between the British and
Americans, September 10, 1813, in which the latter were victorious. The
view we enjoyed was not in the least adequate to remind us of warfare; on
the contrary
"The sun in heaven shone so gay:
All things were joyful on that day."
It was yet early in the morning when we neared the city of Detroit, having
almost reached the head of _Detroit River_ which separates the United
States from Canada. Being about one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide,
and five and one-half fathoms deep, the river flows with a pretty swift
current.
_Detroit_ is the most important city of Michigan, opposite the Canadian
town Windsor.
Eighteen miles north of Lake Erie, it stretches with its suburbs about
five miles along the river, and the central part extends for about two
miles back from the shore. Approaching the city, we were more and more
delighted with its attractive appearance. The streets, from fifty to 100
feet wide, are for the most part ornamented with rows of trees. A number
of avenues, having an unusual width, diverge from the Grand Circus, a
spacious park semi-circular in form, which is divided into two quadrants
by Woodward Avenue. Connected with the former is the Campus Martius, a
public place about 600 feet long and 250 feet wide. Detroit comprises many
magnificent structures. One of the chief public buildings is the city
hall, facing the Campus Martius, with fronts on four streets. It counts
among the finest edifices of the kind in the west. Built of sandstone, it
is designed after the Italian style of architecture, surmounted by a tower
180 feet high. Its cost amounted to $600,000. Other prominent structures
are the opera house, the office of the Board of Trade, the custom house,
and the Roman Catholic cathedral.
The commercial facilities of the city are very extensive. The Detroit
River is a connecting link in the great chain of lake navigation, and
affords the best harbor on the inland-seas. Detroit is not only the center
of a great railroad system; more than 350 vessels are owned here, and
numerous daily lines of steamers run to various points of the lakes. Its
manufacturing industries are very important and consist of iron, flour,
tobacco, cigars, lumber, and bricks. The extensive Pullman Car Works are
situated here; also one of the seven pin factories in the United States.
Settled by the French, early in the eighteenth century, Detroit passed
into the hands of the English in 1763. It was then besieged for eleven
months by the Indian chief Pontiac; ceded to the Americans in 1783, but
not occupied by them till 1796. As a city, it was incorporated in 1824;
and its present population is estimated to be 235,000. It was the capital
of Michigan from 1837 till 1847, when that honor was transferred to
Lansing.
Having traversed Detroit River, we entered _Lake St. Clair_, a sheet of
water eighteen miles long and twenty-two miles wide. This small lake has
many extensive sand-banks covered with a depth of water varying from six
to ten feet. Previous to 1858, much inconvenience was experienced in
navigating it, owing to the insufficient depth, but the governments of the
United States and Canada have dredged a canal through the bed of the lake,
comprising a width of 300 feet. Since then, this channel has been deepened
so as to enable vessels drawing fifteen feet to pass with safety from lake
to lake in stormy weather.
After the expiration of a few hours we reached _River St. Clair_, whose
luxuriant border exhibited a magnificent panorama.
Afar off westward, the uplands wore a tinge of tenderest blue; and in the
nearer distance, on the low shores of the river, superb summer residences,
tasty villas, and elegant hotels, built in every style of architecture,
lay interspersed between romantic hills and tufted groves. The horizon was
of a fine, golden tint, changing gradually into the deep blue of the
mid-heaven.
None of us ventured to leave the deck fearing to miss some of those
unrivaled sights constantly offering new attractions.
This trip on River St. Clair--though having an extent of thirty-three
miles--seemed but short to us; and the fine spectacle displayed on the
charming western bank may be reckoned among the most delightful scenes we
beheld on our long, enjoyable voyage.
As we approached the terminus of the river, a sudden rush of the awakened
wind was heard; and out of the blue horizon a troop of narrow, dark, and
pointed clouds were advancing, covering the sky, inch by inch, with their
gray masses gradually blotting the light out of the landscape. Horizontal
bars of black shadow were forming under them, and lurid wreaths wrapped
themselves about the crests of the hills. The wind had grown more violent
as _Port Huron_ came in view. Waving curtains of opaque rain, swinging
from the overburdened clouds, dropped down upon the surface of the river.
The black swaying fringes, sweeping irresistibly along the water, churned
the surface into foam.
The sudden and unfavorable change of the weather determined our commodore
to abide at _Port Huron_, a prosperous city in Michigan. It commands a
very advantageous situation, located on the west bank of River St. Clair,
and at the southern extremity of Lake Huron.
Being the county seat of St. Clair County, it is also a point of great
importance in the railway system, and the terminus of several lines of
lake steamers.
The city, with a population of nearly 14,000, has a large lumber trade,
ship-yards, dry-docks, saw and flour mills.
Founded in 1819, Port Huron was incorporated as a village in 1835, and as
a city in 1857.
Since the yacht lingered here until Monday, August 7th, we were enabled to
become familiar with its broad streets, regularly laid out and well
shaded; some adorned by beautiful private residences. The heavy, black
clouds that had shrouded the whole sky ever since we made our entry in
Port Huron, were yet concealing the golden disk of the summer sun. The
atmosphere, however, which had previously a disagreeable, wet chilliness
in it, gradually grew clearer and warmer so that we left the dock with the
intention to undertake our voyage on Lake Huron, but when nearing the
place where this sheet of water, covering an area of 23,000 square miles,
communicates with River St. Clair, we discovered that the swell on the
lake level was yet quite considerable, whereas the wind which had blown a
gale all the preceding day, was gradually dying away.
Still, we found it advisable to wait until the foaming waves of the
enraged element had been appeased. In consequence of this decision we
concluded to moor the yacht as near the entrance of Lake Huron, as we
conveniently could, ready for an early departure; for which we considered
the town of _Sarnia_, opposite Port Huron, the most favorable locality.
Romantically situated on the Canadian shore, Sarnia affords a splendid
north and west view. Its handsome streets and neat structures are quite
attractive to the stranger; and not these alone but also the residents who
are generous and hospitable. We observed this fact, even during our short
stay, when receiving the visit of Mr. Clark and his amiable lady, who
presented us with a bouquet of fragrant flowers, a kind gift that we
highly appreciated.
Long ere the east became purple with the morning light and the pinnacles
of Sarnia were bathed, one by one, in the glory of its burning, we
departed from the pleasant city, and the white sea-bird "Marguerite"
spread her light wings over the surface of Lake Huron, whose
waves--although the wind was quite fresh--did not run as high as I
anticipated; for I had been informed that on the previous day the tide
from the lake into Detroit River amounted to eight miles an hour.
As I was pacing up and down the deck, I viewed an inland-sea 270 miles
long, and 105 miles broad, with a picturesque coast line on our left. The
purity of its waters was discernible by its limpid appearance and savory
taste. The fine deposits of sand and clay extending at different places
along the shore to a distance of twenty miles inland, by their contrasts
added to the scenic beauty, exhibiting a variety of magnificent views.
The luxuriant coast bordering on the southern extremity of the lake and
skirting the peninsula of Michigan and southwestern Ontario--though
comparatively flat--is not void of charming features; being lined with
numerous pretty villages imbosomed among gentle slopes that were covered
with the richest verdure. These hamlets, situated in the quiet valleys and
shaded glens, alternated with extensive fields and orchards exuberant with
fertility.
Speeding along on the wavy surface of the lake, we gained sight of the
breakwater of _Sand Beach_ when the noon-tide of the day had not yet
arrived.
We first visited the village of Sand Beach, and returned at nightfall to
the breakwater, which is five miles distant from the former; here the
yacht was cabled to the dock. Near our halting place there stood a lofty
tower, whose illuminating apparatus threw a radiant, vari-colored light on
the dark surface of Lake Huron.
Upon expressing a desire to visit the Light Tower, Mr. James, who never
left any of our wishes unfulfilled, immediately made arrangements with the
keeper; and, accordingly, we were invited to intrust ourselves to his
guidance.
He informed us that the structure rested on a foundation consisting of a
concrete mass, nine feet below the water line. Having ascended four
flights of iron-wrought winding stairs, we reached the top of the circular
structure; it having a diameter of twenty-four feet at its base, and
rising to an elevation of fifty-seven feet.
With great interest we inspected the revolving lights, exhibiting an
ingenious piece of machinery, the invention of Finisterre and Barren in
Paris, and representing a value of $1,800. This apparatus for rotating
lamps is far superior to that for a fixed light.
The characteristic of the latter is to constantly illuminate the whole
horizon, requiring all the rays to fall simultaneously on the navigable
track, whereas the demands made of a revolving light, are not nearly so
great; only each point of the horizon being lighted at successive periods.
When the dark intervals occur, the rays from the flame which are then
pointing toward the obscure spaces, have their direction so altered
laterally as to pass into the adjoining bright places; and so increase the
power of the luminous flashes. A revolving light, though supplied by a
flame of the same strength as a fixed, will thus necessarily be raised to
a higher degree; for it does not lose its power by diffusing the rays
constantly over the whole horizon, but gathers them up into a number of
separate beams of greater intensity.
The lights made to revolve by means of clockwork, were fed with mineral
oil, a refined kerosine; and the refraction was caused by highly polished
metallic reflectors.
This visit to the Sand Beach Beacon was quite instructive; since we viewed
there a practical application of an important principle in optics, based
on the reflection of light.
On Wednesday morning, the first beams of the new-born day had just
appeared, when the yacht continued her voyage on Lake Huron. After a
course of nearly twenty-two miles, we approached _Saginaw Bay_--the
largest indentation on the western lake shore--comprising a width of
thirty miles and a length of sixty miles.
The passage across this bay, feared by many experienced navigators on
account of the heavy ground swell, did not give us any cause for anxiety
at first. Gradually, however, the sea became quite rough, and the enraged
waves dashed their spray pearls even upon the deck of our sailing home.
"The soft, wild waves, that rush and leap,
Sing one song from the hoary deep:
The south wind knows its own refrain,
As it speeds the cloud o'er heaven's blue main."
The strong breeze springing up in the forenoon, increased at midday. A
line of low waves, first creeping sinuously into the bay, and tossing
their snowy crests like troops of wild steeds, rolled higher and higher
with the noise of many waters; and to escape the wrath of the angry sea,
we stopped at the harbor of _Tawas City_, located near the northern
extremity of Saginaw Bay. It is a thriving country town, with about 1,000
inhabitants, largely engaged in lumber trade.
The wind continued to lash the fierce billows during the day until
evening; so we decided to remain in Tawas City until the dawn of the next
morning.
Guided by the pale light of another aurora, we resumed our voyage, finding
the surface of Lake Huron still in uproar.
During this forenoon, we had occasion to witness a prospect quite novel to
us. Glancing to our left, on Michigan's sylvan shore, we saw the bickering
flames of a ravaging forest fire; dyeing all the surrounding air and
landscape crimson, while dense clouds of smoke hung over the burning land
like a pall upon which the sun-rays were reflected with weird effect. It
was, indeed, an unusual sight, exhibiting strange beauty and splendor.
In a short time we experienced the disagreeable consequences of this
conflagration in the woodlands, caused by the extreme dryness prevailing
in these regions for several weeks. For, as we reached _Alpena_ in
Michigan, at about noonday, we found the atmosphere completely saturated
with smoke, and intermixed with particles of burnt material.
The reader can easily imagine that this impure air had a very unpleasant
effect upon our eyes, irritating them so as to materially interfere with
our comfort. This was the reason why we did not duly appreciate the
attractions of Alpena, a town with about 12,500 inhabitants, regularly
laid out with nice, broad streets, containing many handsome buildings and
large stores.
We had an ardent desire to bid farewell to the city as quick as possible;
wherefore our captain received the order from Mr. James to guide the yacht
forward on her course, even before the dawning of the next day, if such an
early departure could be effected with safety.
In compliance with these commands, we were on our way long ere the blush
of day tinged the eastern sky. At first, disregarding the smoke and mist
which became denser every minute, our navigator was soon aware that
"So thick a haze o'erspreads the sky,
He cannot see the sun on high:
On deck the captain takes his stand,
So dull it is, he sees no land.
'Dear me,' he says, 'I know no more
How far away we are from shore.'"
The fact is--that on account of the dense pall of smoke and mist,
overshadowing everything--our pilot lost his reckoning, and only kept the
yacht slowly moving through the water until we could find our way, when
suddenly--we ran aground upon a rocky ledge, causing us all great
consternation.
"No stir in the air, no stir in the sea,
The ship was as still as she might be.
Her shaft and screw received no shock.
Her keel was steady on a rock."
Having lost all presence of mind, our pilot, without any meditation,
abandoned the yacht in one of the small boats, for the purpose of
obtaining assistance from the unknown shore. Before we were conscious of
his proceedings, he had disappeared through fume and haze. Almost
instantaneously we detected that the mariner's compass had vanished with
him.
Thus, we were destitute of the most important instrument for navigation.
Wishing to give our deserter opportunity to find his way back to us, we
caused the whistle to resound at short intervals.
This interesting adventure was, of course, thoroughly discussed. We were
all convinced that the unforeseen event might turn into a perilous one,
should a wind arise to roughen the surface of the water.
Our conversation was interrupted by an involuntary cry of pleasure which
burst from the lips of Miss Campbell, whose keen eyes had revealed to her
quite an uncommon spectacle in the hazy distance. Following her direction,
we spied, through the fluctuating light of the foggy morning, the outlines
of a steadfast boat speeding along on the calm sea. Eight oars, managed
with the accuracy of clockwork by eight strong and skillful hands, were
hurrying toward our rock-bound craft.
As the shape and dimensions of the capable boat became discernible, it was
evident she belonged to the United States Life-Saving Service, coming to
our rescue. This conjecture was correct, for the robust crew soon lay
alongside of us; which was a matter of intense relief to the whole party.
With their assistance, the yacht was soon afloat again; and, guided by the
Thunder Bay crew, we sailed to a favorable place of anchorage between
Sugar and Gull Islands. Here the yacht remained to await our fugitive
pilot, who was restored to us by the kind services of the life-saving
crew, a few hours afterwards.
We were informed that we had been aground two miles from the shore, in the
vicinity of Thunder Bay Lights on _Gull Island Ledge_.
During a heavy shower in the afternoon, we received a visit from several
very pleasant ladies, relatives to the captain of the Thunder Bay
life-saving service.
When expressing our regret that their excursion was not favored by
pleasanter weather, they assured us they were only too glad to view the
tremulous skeins of rain refresh the languishing earth. In fact, this
rainfall was a duplicated blessing, as it not only cleared the atmosphere
from its smoky shroud but helped to check the ravages of the extensive
forest conflagration, then threatening the city of Alpena with
destruction.
An awakened breeze, which had freshened since the violent shower, caused
our floating home to roll considerably.
Not desirous of being rudely tossed by the wanton billows, we weighed
anchor and returned to Alpena, the only safe harbor within reach before
sunset.
Early the next day we continued our voyage on Lake Huron, entering its
northern portion, which differs greatly from the nature of its southern
shore.
The northern and northeastern coasts are mostly composed of sand- and
limestones. Where metamorphic rocks are found, the surface is broken and
hilly, rising to elevations of 600 feet or more above the lake; in this
respect unlike the southern shore, which is low and flat. Of the many
islands--whose number amounts to about 3,000--we could admire the beauties
of but few; for most of them dot the Canadian coast line.
As the wind increased rapidly, it was deemed advisable to take harbor at
_False Presqu'ile_, where we arrived at 9 A.M. Although this small body of
land appeared very insignificant, inhabited by only twelve families, we
decided to remain there, until wind and waves would prove more favorable.
We had no motive to regret that resolution; for we experienced that this
solitary tract not only afforded us enchanting views of lovely scenery; it
was also the abode of noble-hearted mortals. Immediately after our arrival
a very amiable gentleman, introducing himself as Mr. W.A. French, a
wealthy lumber merchant of this place, visited us on board; giving us a
cordial welcome. Not satisfied with a kind reception, he and his pretty
wife presented us with all sorts of provisions, indigenous to this
locality; thus evincing the abundant supply of delicacies at their
disposal, notwithstanding their residing in such solitude.
The time passed with marvelous rapidity in the pleasant company of our new
friends. When the gloom of the growing twilight reminded us of the fading
day, we could hardly realize this fact. We wished to stay there another
day; but when the following morning rose fair and beautiful in the clear
heavens, the wind had changed to the southeast, which was disadvantageous
for our mooring place; and it might have been dangerous for us to remain
in that harbor, should the breeze become violent.
Leaving False Presqu'ile, we pursued our voyage under the most favorable
auspices.
After a course of several hours, we reached _Cheboygan_, a town situated
on the northern shore of the Michigan Peninsula, thirteen miles from the
Straits of Mackinaw. Lumber trade is carried on especially in this place,
which contains about 7,500 inhabitants.
Resuming our trip the next forenoon, a short course brought us to the
terminus of our voyage on Lake Huron; when reaching the _Straits of
Mackinaw_, whose blue green waves divide the State of Michigan.
Extending nearly nine miles in circumference, and rising at its highest
point over 300 feet above the waves, we beheld the famous _Mackinaw
Island_, which has filled an important place in the history of
exploration. Here was the meeting place of the daring French _voyageurs_
and _aventuriers_, before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. Many wild
and thrilling incidents in the lives of Marquette, Hennepin, and La Salle
occurred on this island; and over at Point St. Ignace, in plain view,
Marquette was escorted to his burial place by a hundred canoes of plumed
and painted Ottawa and Huron warriors in 1677.
Just across, on the most northern point of the Lower Peninsula, stood old
Fort Mackinaw, the scene of the terrible massacre of the whites by the
Indians under Pontiac in 1763.
On this island were fought two battles in the war of 1812. It was here
that Schoolcraft wrote his celebrated History of the North American
Indians, and the Legend of Hiawatha, which Longfellow, visiting him here,
afterward expanded into a poem.
The island's varied scenery, and its history and traditions, have been
portrayed in vivid word pictures by Marion Harland in a book, bearing the
title "With the Best Intentions," by which she has recently added to her
wide fame.
Having crossed the strait at its narrowest part four miles in width, we
caught sight of the beautiful waters of _Lake Michigan_, the only one in
the group of the North American great lakes which extends entirely within
the territory of the United States, having a maximum breadth of eighty
four miles, and a depth varying from 700 to 1,000 feet. Its length amounts
to 345 miles from the northwestern corner of Indiana and the northern part
of Illinois to the Straits of Mackinaw.
We followed the same route which more than two centuries ago was taken by
Jacques Marquette who, in the spring of 1673, with Joliet for his
chieftain, and five other Frenchmen, embarked at Mackinaw in two frail
bark canoes.
The disposition to pause for an instant, and to reflect upon the character
and circumstance of our luxurious voyage as contrasted with that of these
few adventurers in their fragile birch canoes--a little over 220 years
ago--is almost irresistible.
On that occasion it was a journey of extreme peril--with no friendly
populous havens at which the necessary commodities could be obtained.
Those densely wooded shores afforded no hospitable refuge to these hardy
men, and their destination or return was a question of great uncertainty.
We pushed along with the marvelous propeller and, surrounded with every
comfort, had the assurance of each evening anchoring in some safe
harbor--encountering cheerful voices, and seeing glad faces--with the
possibility of daily finding everything we wanted, in profusion. There
was the postoffice, with its rapid service at our disposal, or the
electric telegraph, by means of which we could communicate with every
part of civilization, ever within our reach--and the climax of modern
genius in the magnificent structures of the Columbian Exposition awaiting
us--the marvel of the nineteenth century, with its unparalleled
aggregation. The thought is overwhelming! And could these explorers have
seen in a dream--what we witnessed in reality--it would have seemed to
them an impossibility that so short a time could have brought about such
great events.
The eastern lake shore was richly garlanded with forests displaying a vast
multitude of verdant hues, varying through all the shades of green. Over
the whole the azure of the sky cast a deep, misty blue; blending toward
the rocks of lime- and sandstone, seemingly embracing every possible tint
and shade of color.
Having achieved a course of sixty miles, the yacht cast anchor in the
excellent harbor of St. James on _Beaver Island_, a large tract of land
covering an area of 3,700 acres. Vessels of various kinds and shapes lay
moored in this spacious inlet. Being wind-bound, we tarried for two days,
which gave us opportunity to become acquainted with the features of the
island. We were informed that it is identified with the history of
Mormonism; since it was first settled by adherents of that sect, who
robbed the ships entering this port, and who led the lives of pirates.
After their leader was killed in one of the numerous combats which ensued
with the attacked sailors, they abandoned the place; but the habitation of
the Mormon chief is still existing, probably the only vestige left here of
the followers of Joseph Smith.
At 1 o'clock A.M., on Wednesday, August 16th, we departed from Beaver
Island. The pilot had guided the "Marguerite" on a course of about
forty-five miles southward, when we approached _Northport_, Michigan, a
place noteworthy for having not a single of those maleficient institutions,
commonly styled beer-saloons.
We lingered two hours at the dock of this town. The white fields of
blinding mist floated along the winding valleys of the low lake shore; and
from the dark clouds curtaining the sun, the rain fell continuously. Thus
the landscape on our left bore a gray and dim tincture.
Before the darkness of evening had gathered about us, the yacht was made
fast to the dock of _Frankfort_, on the Michigan coast, a small place with
a population of about 1,000, romantically situated. Taking our departure
from the town on the following morning, we observed that the fog, covering
the surrounding landscape with a thick, impenetrable veil, increased in
density until it seemed as if from moment to moment additional tints of
sombre gray were united to the haze. In fact, after a while we were unable
to discern the outline of the coast, having to pursue our way with great
caution.
After the lapse of four anxious hours, we had the great satisfaction to
hear the welcome sound of the fog-horn of _Manistee_, the county seat of
Manistee County, in Michigan. It is situated at the mouth of the
same-named river, which is navigable for vessels, drawing ten to twelve
feet of water, for the distance of one and one-half miles to Manistee
Lake. Largely engaged in lumber trade, the city has a score of saw-mills
and about as many shingle-mills, the latter of which produce annually
450,000,000 shingles, the largest number made at any one place in the
world. In consequence of the discovery in 1881 of a bed of solid salt,
thirty feet thick, extensive salt factories are being built. The
population of the city has rapidly increased in later years, comprising
about 14,000 residents at present. The surrounding district is especially
adapted for fruit-growing; and sportsmen are attracted to the Manistee
River and its tributaries by the abundance of the otherwise rarely found
grayling.
Since we expected company on board the "Marguerite" in the evening--Mr.
Wilkinson, a citizen of Milwaukee, who intended to make us acquainted with
his wife, we went on shore immediately after dinner to view the city, so
as to return in time to meet our visitors.
Manistee made the impression of a flourishing business town. The
comparatively long trading thoroughfare is a broad street nicely laid out,
and adorned with numerous stately buildings and spacious stores.
Not long after our departure from Manistee, which occurred early on the
following morning, a sudden squall threatened us; and a few minutes later,
a terrific flash and peal broke almost simultaneously upon us, followed by
a violent shower. Fortunately, it lasted but a short time. The tempest
gradually ceased; the irregular and blinding flashes became fewer and the
thunder rolled less loudly. Gradually the scene changed to one of peaceful
beauty so that the rose light of the radiant sun-ball appeared in the
heavens; casting a new glory on the picturesque scenery of water and
shore.
The surface of the lake had become calm; and speeding along, we enjoyed
the lovely weather which was not destined to continue. For, toward midday
a fresh breeze rippled the waters that by degrees were transformed into
towering waves, shaking their foamy crests, and tossing us angrily from
side to side; and we were not sorry when we reached the harbor of
_Muskegon_, about six miles from Muskegon City, situated on the same-named
river which here, four miles from its mouth, widens into Muskegon Lake. It
is the best harbor on the east side of the great lake. The city has daily
steamboat navigation with Chicago; and saws and ships enormous quantities
of lumber. Its principal manufactories are a number of foundries, machine
shops, and boiler works. The present population is estimated to comprise
about 24,000.
While admiring the lovely scenery enhanced by an enchanting sunset, from
the deck of the yacht, our attention was distracted by approaching
footsteps. In the uncertain, fading daylight, we perceived a gentleman
accompanied by a lady--curiously regarding us--whom we invited on board
the "Marguerite."
Mrs. and Mr. Wickham were the names by which this fair couple was
introduced. That they spent the evening in our company, was very
acceptable to us--as we but rarely had visitors on our pilgrimage. They
greatly admired our floating home, and as the moon arose to bathe us with
his silvery light, they took their departure.
The young archer--morn--broke his arrows on the remote hills, walking
golden-sandaled down the lake, when we continued our voyage.
The still waters were soon lashed into fury again by an unfavorable wind,
increasing toward midday to such a degree that we were glad to take refuge
in the harbor of _South Haven_, where we lingered until the dawn of
another day.
Opposite the mooring-place of the "Marguerite" stood an edifice whose
interior we all longed to view. Having so unexpectedly become acquainted
with the Life-Saving Service on the occasion of our adventure near Thunder
Bay, we were anxious to learn more about that noble institution. In the
afternoon we set out for the South Haven Life-Saving Station whose
captain, an obliging gentleman, gave us very satisfactory explanations. He
first called our attention to the splendid qualities of the life-boat:
such as its power to right itself if upset; the capability of immediate
self-discharge when filled with water; its strength; resistance to
overturning; speed against a heavy sea; buoyancy; and facility in
launching and taking the shore.
We then inspected the diverse apparatuses utilized for rescuing the
shipwrecked.
A very clever contrivance, especially appropriate for saving invalids,
children, and aged persons is the metallic car, a small covered boat,
which can hold three or four persons who, entering by a comparatively
small aperture, are shut in and drawn ashore, safely protected from injury
even though overturned by the surf.
For projecting a line over a stranded vessel a howitzer is used; and in
this way a communication is secured to the shore. The cork life-belts worn
by the men, are of the plan first designed by Admiral Ward.
It is safe to say that the United States Life-Saving Service is chief
among the life-boat societies of other nations, both as regards the extent
of coast embraced, and the amount of work done. The whole support of this
service is provided for by annual grants from Congress. Besides its vast
coast line, it guards the shores of its great lakes. Since the
sea-bordering portions of America in many places are destitute of human
habitations, the constant employment of surfmen is required for the
express purpose of looking out for vessels in distress and manning the
surf-boats. It also necessitates the erection of houses of refuge
provisioned so as to afford shelter and food to shipwrecked sailors for a
considerable time at places, where without such provisions those who
escape the sea, would probably perish from hunger and exposure.
The shores of the United States lakes and sea comprise over 10,000 miles,
embracing almost every variety of climate and formation of land. This
great extent of sea-board is divided into twelve districts with in all 244
stations. Of these 182 are on the Atlantic, forty-nine on the lakes, and
twelve on the Pacific. Many of the stations are closed during the fine
months of the year; their crews being disbanded till the winter gales
again summon them to their heroic and dangerous work. That they render
noble service in this way, may be gathered from the annual reports.
The official statement of 1893 shows that the disasters to shipping in
that year amounted to 427 cases; that on board of vessels thus endangered
there were 3,565 persons of whom 3,542 were saved.
After we had thus enriched our knowledge referring to this humane
institution with its present effective system, we proceeded to the
neighboring shore of Lake Michigan, here forming a beautiful beach. The
polished and print-less sand studded with small, shining pepples spread
before us in vast expanse; and the magnificent waters of the lake
glittered in the sun-beams as though they were sown with diamonds. When
the surf came in, and the white fringe of the sliding wave shot up the
beach, the light color of the sand was deepened to a silvery gray. As much
as we marred and defaced its fine-grained, bright surface, it was ever
beaten down anew by the advancing and retreating waves. We had hardly
deserted this lovely spot, when our foot prints were washed away by the
ever returning sea.
On Monday at an advanced hour in the evening we departed from South Haven.
Since the glories of the sunset, with its witchery of rose and gold,
promised a fine night, we decided to continue our voyage as far as
Michigan City.
The panorama we witnessed during that nocturnal trip was as magnificent as
can be imagined. The full-orbed moon on the wave was beautiful; and so was
the landscape bathed in its light.
Toward 10 o'clock we arrived at our destination, a town in La Porte Co.,
Indiana.
_Michigan City_ is the largest lumber-market in the State, and has
numerous manufacturing establishments. As a lake-port, it is a place of
considerable prosperity comprising a population of about 11,000.
It was in the early morning, Tuesday, August 22nd, that we left Michigan
City. Having sailed along the coast of the lake for about three hours, we
discerned in the misty distance the site of the "Queen of the West."
At twenty minutes to 9 o'clock, it became plainly cognizable. In
transports of delight we glanced at a vast, verdant tract of land adorned
with magnificent structures appearing to be of the purest marble; in their
matchless beauty imparting to the mind some grand allegorical _tableau_,
intending to convey the poet's idea of the New Jerusalem.
It was the famous _White City_, the site of the World's Columbian
Exposition, that charmed our eyes and gratified our taste so much. No one
can adequately describe that sight as seen from the clear waters of the
lake.--I imagine that our illustrious Columbus must have been equally
affected as he beheld Guanahani, that fruitful island in its wild
luxuriance, on his first landing in the New World.