SOJOURN IN BUFFALO AND VISIT TO NIAGARA FALLS, FROM JULY 29TH, 1.30 P.M.,
TO AUGUST 2ND, 7 A.M.
It was a bright and sunny day; the atmosphere being purified by a strong
but refreshing breeze. As the noonday sun poured his brilliant rays on the
towering hills which adorn the luxuriant banks of the canal, it was
announced that in the distance there could be discerned the dark line
which indicated our approach to the verdant tract encompassing the
thriving city of _Buffalo_, the terminus of our voyage on the Erie Canal.
While the boat was speeding along, this point upon which our attention was
chiefly fixed, became more cognizable with every minute. Rising upwards to
our left we could perceive domes of the most graceful proportions,
towering structures, for number and form beyond my power to describe. On
the other side, there lay spread before us, in vast expanse, the unrivaled
water front which skirts the city of Buffalo, extending two and one-half
miles along the shore of Lake Erie and two and one-half miles along
Niagara River.
As we entered the harbor of Buffalo, which is considered the largest and
finest on the lake, we were soon made acquainted with scenes and incidents
that have no common fascination; in fact, one must be surprised at the
tremendous amount of activity displayed here. The scores of huge grain
elevators, having a total capacity of 8,000,000 bushels, and the mammoth
warehouses lining the water fronts reminded one of New York and Brooklyn.
Large steamers and sailing vessels, of every description, are being loaded
and discharged; powerful steam-hoists in operation on the docks; immense
quantities of freight and merchandise in process of transfer to and from
the railroad cars; and bustle everywhere; while hundreds of pleasure-boats
and small crafts, of every conceivable variety, may be seen as far as the
eye can reach. There we saw the trim and dainty shell, with its arrow-like
prow, darting through the quiet coves; the saucy catamaran shooting, half
submerged, out before the wind; the cozy little steam-launches, all ready
to take their passengers to some suburban pleasure-ground; excursion
steamers, with flying banners and bands of music going and coming, and
mammoth propellers destined to carry thousands of tourists to the El
Dorado on Lake Michigan's blue waters.
It will not be difficult to understand why Buffalo has attained commercial
supremacy in Western New York, if you add to this never ceasing activity,
betokening business, the enormous canal traffic; for it is here where
innumerable canal-boats are weighted with the rich products of the west,
carrying a large floating population of boatmen's families.
Before selecting our mooring place in Buffalo Creek, which can be
navigated for about one mile, we sailed to the breakwater, a solid wall
several feet high, having a length of 4,000 feet, which was erected at the
expense of some millions of dollars for the protection of the city from
being flooded by the unruly waters of Lake Erie.
While the tanks of the yacht were being filled with the limpid water of
the lake, we ascended the stairs leading to the top of the protecting
wall; for we all were anxious to become acquainted with the nature of the
billows that were to carry us many miles westward and nearer to our far
destination.
It was a glorious sight unfolded before our eyes. We glanced at a huge
sheet of water, about 268 miles long, varying from thirty to nearly sixty
miles in width, with an area of 9600 square miles, whose elevation from
tide water is judged to be 564 feet.
This majestic spectacle, as animated as it was, imparted to us an adequate
conception of a boisterous inland sea. The surface of the lake was in wild
uproar; the advancing and retreating waves were beating themselves into
angry foam, and dashed their spray pearls almost to our feet; their
opulent azure hue being dimmed by the violent agitation. The inexperienced
eye has no idea of the imposing impression caused by the extremely
subitaneous changes to which these waters are subjected. The wide bosom of
the lake that sometimes lies motionless and glassy, without a breath of
air to cause the slightest undulation, in a very short time may be
scourged by a sudden gale. The wild gambols of the waves, accompanied by
the roar of the disturbed elements, may well cause the timid to fear; for,
as the swell lifts, you would think the bases of the earth are rising
beneath it; and, again, when it falls, you would imagine the foundation of
the deep had given away.
Though the billows before us now were beaten by a powerful breeze,
breaking with angry roar upon the barrier upon which we stood, yet not the
slightest feeling of fear found place within our hearts. On the contrary,
as we left the breakwater in order to return to Buffalo, I felt my heart
palpitating with joy as I thought of the pleasing prospect to be tossed by
those grand waves.
Having chosen a place at the foot of Main Street for our stay, the orders
to secure the "Marguerite" were instantly carried out; and immediately a
multitude of curious beholders had gathered around the yacht, viewing her
with evident expression of admiration.
Since it was yet early in the afternoon we decided to go on shore, in
order to view the points of interest in this important city.
A ride in the electric railway, traversing it in every direction, made us
acquainted with a good portion of Buffalo, which contains a population of
nearly 300,000, being the third city in size in the Empire State. It is
handsomely laid out with broad and well shaded streets. One hundred and
three miles are paved with asphalt, and 133 miles with stone. We saw many
fine residences with attractive grounds, and numerous public squares.
Delaware Avenue, the leading street for elegant mansions, is about three
miles long, and is lined with a double row of trees.
The city possesses a superb system of parks and pleasure grounds, designed
and laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of Central Park in
New York City. It comprises three sections, situated respectively in the
northern, western, and eastern parts of Buffalo, which, with the
connecting boulevard, afford a drive of nearly ten miles.
Main Street, the principal trading thoroughfare, has many substantial
business blocks.
Of the prominent public buildings, the city and county hall deserves being
mentioned in the first place. It is an imposing structure, of Maine
granite, in the form of a double Roman cross, with a tower 245 feet high,
surmounted by four statues. This magnificent edifice is fronting on
Franklin Street, and was completed in 1880 at a cost of nearly $1,500,000.
Other handsome buildings are the U.S. custom house and postoffice, at the
corner of Washington and Seneca Streets; the Buffalo library, on Lafayette
Square; the State arsenal, in Broadway; the Erie County penitentiary, one
of the six penal establishments of New York; the general hospital, in High
Street; and the State asylum for the insane, an edifice which cost about
$3,000,000, located in Forest Avenue, adjoining the Buffalo Park.
The city is also adorned with several handsome churches and theaters.
Buffalo was first settled by the Dutch in 1801, and became an important
military post during the war of 1812. It was burned by a combined force of
British and Indians in 1814. Its city charter was granted in 1832, and
since then its growth has been very rapid.
As regards its live-stock trade, Buffalo ranks third among the cities in
the Union, and its iron and steel works are next in importance to those of
Pittsburg. The shipment of Pennsylvania coal, which finds a depot here,
has been greatly increased in recent years; about 1,500,000 tons being
distributed annually. The lumber trade is also large, but has been partly
diverted to Tonawanda, ten miles below Buffalo.
The industrial works comprise four blast furnaces, large rolling mills,
machine shops, car shops, iron ship-yards, stove foundries, tanneries,
flour mills, and manufacturing of agricultural implements.
Early on Monday morning, I abandoned the land of dreams in order to appear
on deck in good season; since arrangements had been made for going into
dry-dock that very morning.
Reader, have you ever been there? I hear you answer negatively. Well, that
is just what I expected; for it is a rather unusual and rare experience
for ladies, even in the eyes of a shipwright, a man who is constantly
employed in that place, that a boat enters the dry-dock with her
passengers on board.
It was partly a matter of necessity, and partly of circumspection, that
caused us to abide in the dry-dock for a few hours.
In consequence of the numerous low bridges that span the canal, the spars,
rigging, and smoke-stack belonging to the complete equipment of the
"Marguerite" would have made her journey on that artificial waterway
absolutely impossible; therefore it was necessary to replace these parts
in their appropriate positions.
The picture in the frontispiece gives evidence of that fact; as the
"Marguerite" presented a very different picture completely rigged.
Now, on the point of sailing on the Great Lakes, it was requisite to dress
the yacht in her proper array, with her high tapering masts; the cords of
her rigging stretching from spar to spar with the beautiful accuracy of a
picture; and so equipped, as to give her the appearance of a majestic,
white winged sea-bird resting gracefully on the water.
For the purpose of bestowing upon her such an outfit, as well as for
having her bottom examined, she was docked in Mill's dry-dock. The latter
motive, I must add, was effected by a mere act of precaution; since no
components of the propelling machinery had been injured or damaged.
But Mr. James, our ever thoughtful commodore, wished to be assured that he
could direct the "Marguerite" on her westward course with everything
pertaining to her in complete order.
These docks may be in communication either with a wet dock or a tidal
harbor. I observed that the dry-dock we entered had a pontoon gate,
floated in or out of place as desired. There being no tides in the lakes,
this style of gate--less liable to leak under continuous pressure--is
invariably used; for the only method of emptying the docks here is by
pumping, for which purpose a steam-engine and pumps, with a well and water
channel leading to it, were employed.
We scarcely had made our entry into it, ere many busy hands worked to give
the keel of the yacht a secure rest on wooden blocks which were fastened
down to prevent them floating. They were of such a height as to permit the
shipwright getting under the vessel's bottom. Then side shores were put in
to keep the boat in an upright position. This being accomplished, I could
notice that the pumping machinery was brought into full operation. Soon I
found that the level of the water became lower and lower, and after the
expiration of about one-half hour the dock was almost dry.
The sides of the dock generally consist of stone steps--called altars--for
the purpose of fixing the lower ends of the shores, and also for the
convenience of supporting the workmen's scaffold.
Mr. James and family, including myself, left the yacht to the crew and
workmen, while we further explored the city of Buffalo in carriages,
thoughtfully provided for us.
The day after our entering dry-dock, August 1st, was eventful, as it was
arranged we should make an excursion to view one of Nature's greatest
wonders--_Niagara Falls_--a sight unlike any other on the surface of the
globe. The indescribable grandeur of the whole overwhelms the soul--to
contemplate that tremendous torrent which never stops! No rest in the ages
of the past--no promise of a moment's stay in all the years to come--but
on, on, with resistless force!
Our thoughts become like the mists that rise above this awful scene, and
we are mute--Pigmies of an hour! To feel that after what we are becomes a
little dust, that solemn roar will echo in the ears of millions now
unborn!
Though I had read diverse descriptions portraying the grandeur and
magnificence of Niagara Falls, still I was aware that they had failed in
conveying a clear and succinct outline of their wonderful proportions and
great sublimity. My conclusions that, in older to be properly appreciated
these gigantic cataracts must be visited, were confirmed, and, _re vera_,
when once viewed the recollection of that glorious sight will linger long
in memory.
An hour's ride in the cars brought us to the village of Niagara Falls, a
splendid manufacturing point, having all modern improvements and
unsurpassed railway facilities of various kinds. The village was
incorporated in 1848, and has about 4,000 inhabitants.
The average annual number of visitors to this beautiful place is estimated
to be 400,000.
At the station of Niagara Falls, Mr. James engaged vehicles which afforded
accommodations for all of us--a party of ten--including the steward, who
accompanied us, carrying a bountiful repast.
The drivers of Niagara Falls are excellent _ciceroni_. We drove through
the handsome village to Prospect Park, a property owned by the State of
New York, and included in the Niagara Reservation, which the State
acquired by purchase in 1885. All the unsightly buildings, heretofore
obstructing the view, have been removed, and a terrace was erected for a
distance of half a mile, affording uncountable attractions to the visitor
with its venerable trees, comfortable seats, and delightful views.
The main entrance is a tasty structure at the foot of Cascade Street. The
point of land at the brink of the falls is called _Prospect Point_. Since
it commands a fine view, which is the feature of the park, our drivers
advised us to abandon the carriages and to step nearer to the long stone
wall running for some distance along the edge of the gorge.
Standing on the platform, I glanced at the mighty volume of water; here
precipitated over a huge rock 163 feet high with a thunderlike roar that
can be heard, under favorable circumstances, a distance of fifteen miles.
For a long time we remained there, spell-bound by the wonderful panorama,
plunged into a reverie of rapture. Mrs. James, reminding me the carriages
were waiting for us, brought me back to consciousness.
The spectacle is so sublime and overwhelming that the mind, unable to
grasp it, cannot adjust itself at once to a scale so stupendous, and the
impression fails. But, gradually, as you remain longer, the unvarying,
ponderous, unspeakably solemn voice of the great flood finds its way to
the soul, and holds it with a fascination which is all pervasive and
cannot be shaken off.
In a car, moving on an inclined plane, we descended to the water's edge.
These cars are raised and lowered by water-power, by means of a three-inch
cable 300 feet long, running over steel wheels.
At the foot of the stairway, tickets may be obtained for the trip on the
"Maid of the Mist," that steams up to the Horseshoe Fall; then back to the
Canadian side, and finally returns to her starting point.
The view from below presented to us new charms which we could not obtain
before. In the first place the enormous height of the cataract may be
better realized from beneath; then the emerald and opal translucence of
the waters, as they pass in their swift career, was here especially
effective; since the sun, shining through the mists of spray from a
station in the heavens most advantageous for our prospect, crowned the
entire scene with iridescent diadems. This fall is known as the American,
separated from the "Horseshoe" or "Canadian Fall" by a large island,
standing on the verge of the cliff over which the cataract pours, and
dividing the river in such a manner as to form from its waters the two
above named falls.
After a lovely ride through the beautiful woodland we viewed Goat Island,
having an area of 61-1/2 acres and a circumference of about one mile. A
strip about ten rods wide and eighty rods long, has been washed away on
the south side since the first road was made in 1818.
This island was, in ancient times, one of the favorite burying-grounds of
the Indians, and yet preserves traces of their funeral rites.
Crossing the first bridge, from which we had one of the grandest views of
the rapids, we reached Bath Island, some two acres in extent. A second
bridge conveyed us to Goat Island, where we witnessed a most charming
panorama. Descending the stairs, we stood next to the Little Fall, beneath
which is the famous Cave of the Winds.
From the farther point of Luna Island, attainable by a little bridge, we
saw the most desirable near view of the American Fall and Rapids; here,
too, we enjoyed a fine spectacle in the perspective of the gorge below.
It has often been remarked by strangers that this island trembles, which
is undoubtedly true, but the impression is heightened by imagination.
Not far from Luna Island are the famous Biddle Stairs. Shortly after their
erection, in 1829, the well known Sam Patch, whose diving propensities
made his name illustrious, performed his noted, bold feat in 1830. Midway
between the foot of these stairs and the Canadian Fall he built a
scaffold, ninety-six feet high, from which he made his successful leap
into the river.
Proceeding a little further, we stood in full view of the Horseshoe
Fall--so-called because of its crescent shape--which contains by far the
greater body of water; the fall being more than 2,000 feet wide and 154
feet high.
The site of the old Terrapin Tower is the best point from which to
perceive the shape of the fall.
From the south side of the island the Three Sister Islands are accessible,
affording the finest views of the rapids. These islands offer, from their
location, a delightfully cool retreat in the warmest summer days, with
attractive and enchanting scenery.
In order to have a comprehensive glance of Nature's grandest wonder known
to man, in its climax of sublimity, we took a ride back through Prospect
Park, across the New Suspension Bridge, below the American Fall, to the
Canadian shore. This splendid drive was continued through the Queen
Victoria Niagara Falls Park, opened to the public in 1889.
Following the example of New York State, the Ontario Parliament had passed
an act to reserve the western side of the Falls vicinity--the Canadian
Reservation--covering an area of about 154 acres, and beautifully laid
out.
Here we had the most imposing view; a finer panorama cannot well be
imagined.
The concussion of the descending waters with those in the depths below
occasion a spray that veils the cataract two-thirds up its height. Above
this everlasting and impenetrable foam, there rises fifty feet above the
fall a cloud of lighter spray, which, when the rays of the sun are
directed upon it, displays solar rainbows, grand in their magnificence.
It was here on Table Rock, formerly one of the most celebrated points
about Niagara, that Mrs. Lydia Huntley Sigourney wrote her spirited eulogy
on Niagara, which commences with the musical rhymes:
"Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe
Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on,
Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud
Mantled around thy feet. And he doth give
Thy voice of thunder power to speak of him
Eternally,--bidding the lip of man
Keep silence,--and upon thine altar pour
Incense of awe-struck praise."
Three miles below the falls is the Whirlpool, a vast basin formed by the
projection of a rocky promontory on the Canadian side, against which the
waters rush with such violence as to cause a severe reaction and rotary
motion; and in it logs and trees are frequently whirled around for weeks
in succession.
Geology has accepted as a matter of certitude that within the memory of
men now living, the Falls have receded 100 feet, and authorities in that
science have stated the fact, that the retrocession--estimated from one
inch to one foot per year--began near Lewiston. The whole waters of the
lakes there foamed over this dam several miles in width.
The name "Niagara" is supposed to belong to the vocabulary of the Iroquois
language, meaning "Thunderer of Waters."
The first white visitor to Niagara Falls was Father Hennepin, a priest and
historian, accompanying Chevalier Robert de la Salle on his discoveries.
He published the first description of "this wonderful Downfall" in 1678.
There exist now three distinct cataracts, which are known as _Horseshoe_,
_American_, and _Central Falls_. The weight of water descending over the
cadences in a single hour, is computed to be 100,000,000 tons.
The magnitude of the great waterfalls, and their fame as a natural wonder,
had, heretofore, to a certain degree, excluded from thought the idea of
their marvelous utilarian properties; but the recent development of
electrical science, and the far-reaching enterprise of to-day, have now
combined to subject to the uses of mankind a portion of the power of the
falls, developed at such a distance from the great cataract as not to
interfere in any way with the natural beauty of the scenery.
As the western sky was dyed with the tints of sunset, we hastened to reach
our floating home; since we expected two friends of Miss Campbell on board
the yacht--a gentleman who holds a prominent position in Buffalo, Mr. J.B.
Seitz, and his charming wife. We returned with the exhalting sentiment of
having visited a temple of nature, to whose shrine thousands from all over
the world annually pay their tribute of praise.
Arriving on board the "Marguerite" that--though still in dry-dock--was not
laid dry any more, we perceived a striking contrast between the close and
saturated atmosphere prevailing here, and the pure, balmy air at Niagara
Falls.
Our thoughtful commodore, desirous of giving us the opportunity to inhale
the refreshing sea-breeze, ordered our departure for the breakwater as
soon as circumstances permitted; intending early on the following morning
to commence our lake journey. The obscurity was fast increasing as we
neared the high stone wall, and the scenery around me made the verses of
Whittier resound in my ears in which he described the "Evening by the Lake
Side" so beautifully with the words:
"Yon mountain's side is black with night,
While broad-orbed, o'er its gleaming crown
The moon, slow rounding into sight,
On the hushed inland-sea looks down."