CHAPTER IV.

STAY IN CHICAGO AND VISIT TO THE WORLD'S FAIR.

Our arrival in Chicago put an end to our pleasurable voyage comprising the

considerable length of 1,243 miles, during which

"The waves were our pillow,

Our cradle the sea:

When rough was the billow

Not timid were we."

This westward trip afforded us every hour a revelation of the surprising

growth of the nation that lives under the Stars and Stripes. My traveling

companions were equally delighted with this course, notwithstanding their

being preacquainted with that portion of the west, whose rapid development

makes it practically a new and another west every ten years. In fact,

America astonishes the world; and it is no common pleasure to study and

note the progress of this great republic of which Chicago is the second

city in commercial importance, as well as in population.

We were anxious to obtain an adequate conception of the site of a city

that is the synonym of push and prosperity, and to which Congress had

awarded the World's Columbian Exposition. Therefore, the yacht was moored

inside the breakwater, near the mouth of the inlet, called the Chicago

River, which runs from the lake nearly one mile westward; then separates

into two branches, one flowing northwest, the other southwest; thus

dividing Chicago into three divisions, connected by more than thirty-five

bridges, and two tunnels laid under the bed of the river. This streamlet

used to empty into Lake Michigan; but a remarkable piece of engineering

caused it to change its course and so to speak, run "uphill." The Illinois

and Michigan Canal, with which the main branch of the river is connected,

was so deepened as to draw the water out from the lake, so that--through

this channel emptying into the Illinois River--the water of Lake Michigan

flows into the Gulf of Mexico by means of the Mississippi River. Had it

been later in the season, we might have decided to follow this watercourse

in order to view the fertile Mississippi River Valley, and to enjoy the

beauties of the sunny south.

The largest vessels may be towed into the Chicago River, being supplied

with docks and water-slips and affording a dockage capacity of nearly

forty miles.--Originally named Chacaqua River, (the Indian word for

thunder, after the Indian Thor or Thunder God), it is supposed to have

given the city its name.

At midday we left our anchorage--on which the eye of heaven shone almost

too hot--and undertook our first trip to the Fair Grounds. Seated on deck,

we inhaled the invigorating, fresh breeze sweeping over the lake and

modified by the burning rays of the sun that kissed the brilliant, blue

waters beneath, with his golden face, gilding them with heavenly alchemy.

High ran our anticipations as we were approaching the renowned White City,

to which representatives of all nations have made a pilgrimage.

At the expiration of about one-half hour, we reached the pier, destined

for the halting-place of yachts; and welcomed by the supervisor of the

harbor, we went on shore.

The first impression was bewildering. Americans have reason to be proud of

what was to be viewed in Jackson Park; as such buildings no previous

generations of men have seen, congregated in this manner; and the display

of the achievements of science, art, and industries, exhibited in them,

has undoubtedly eclipsed all other expositions in the world's annals of

progress.

It seems impossible to give so adequate a pen-picture of the World's Fair

as to impart to the reader an accurate idea of its true grandeur. Many

minds have essayed already to reproduce what they have witnessed there;

many pens have attempted to record exactly the incomparable impression the

exposition effected upon its visitors, but, it is safe to say, without

even faintly describing it; for, can language convey to a blind man what

"color" means, or to a deaf person the meaning of music?--No more can the

pen of the most gifted author adequately portray the World's Columbian

Exposition. If one would give to each building a volume; a shelf to the

Midway Plaisance; and to the exhibitions a whole library in way of

description, yet half of its beauties and wonders would not be told.--

Leaving the "Marguerite" at the North Pier, our attention was called to a

unique exhibit made by the U.S. Navy Department, a structure representing

a faithful model of a modern coast-line battle-ship. This full-sized

imitation _man-of-war_ _"Illinois"_ was completely equipped erected on

piling on the lake front, and surrounded by water, so as to give the

appearance of being moored to a wharf. Here the Government showed also a

war baloon, a light-house, a life-saving station complete with apparatus,

and a gun battery.

Proceeding a little westward, we viewed a building, delightfully located,

bearing a strong resemblance to the National Museum at Washington. This

imposing edifice classic in style, and adorned by a central octagonal dome

was the _United States Government Building_; to the southward of which

rose the largest of the Exposition structures, the _Manufactures and

Liberal Arts Building_, notable for its gigantic but symmetrical

proportions, covering an area of more than thirty-one acres.

Looking in a southern direction, we caught sight of the pier extending

1,000 feet into the lake, and affording a landing-place for steamers. It

was bounded on the east by the beautiful facade of the _Casino_, which

presented a decidedly Venetian aspect; its nine pavilions being in

communication both by gondolas and bridges. At the west end of the pier

stood thirteen stately columns emblematic of the Thirteen Original States

of the Union.

Rising out of the lagoon, the colossal _Statue of the Republic,_ the

largest ever built in America, predominated over this charming scene.

Beyond it extended a broad basin from which grassy terraces and broad

walks led on the southward to one of the most magnificent edifices raised

for the exposition, the _Agricultural Building_. In style of architecture

it pertained to the classic renaissance and was erected at a cost of about

$1,000,000.

From the pier westward across the park, we walked through an avenue,

several feet long; affording a view of almost unparalleled splendor.

Encompassing a beautiful sheet of water, the majestic facades of imposing

buildings attracted our eyes; above all, a superb guilded dome shimmering

in the sun-light, and pertaining to the _Administration Building,_ which

was pronounced the gem and crown of the Exposition structures. In general

design in the style of the French renaissance, it was built at an expense

of about $550,000.

Located at the extreme south of the park rose the stately _Machinery

Hall_, following classical models throughout, and being especially rich in

architectural lines and details. Its construction required a sum of

$1,000,000.

Facing the Grand Avenue, our eyes rested with delight upon two immense

edifices on either side of the Administration Building, one for the

_Electrical_ and the other for the _Mining Exhibit_.

Turning to the northward, we viewed the _Transportation Building,_

exquisitely refined and simple in architectural treatment, although very

rich and costly in detail.

On our right we beheld one of the most notable spots in Jackson Park,

(viz) _Wooded Island_, a gem of primitive nature, agreeably contrasting

with the grand productions of human skill surrounding it. Close by was the

_Palace of Horticulture,_ the largest structure ever erected for such

purpose, costing about $400,000.

Proceeding more northward, we reached the entrance to the _Midway

Plaisance_, directly east of which stood, encompassed by luxuriant shrubs

and beds of fragrant flowers, like a white silhouette against the

background of old and stately oaks, the daintily designed _Woman's

Building_.

On a well paved boulevard we entered the great "Highway through the

Nations." Formerly a promenade belonging to the South Park System and

connecting Jackson Park on the east and Washington Park on the west, it

was styled by the seekers of _plaisir_ "Midway Plaisance" signifying

"Pleasure-Way." This name has been retained by the Administration of the

World's Fair, whereas the country-lane of former times had undergone a

complete metamorphosis. We were unable to realize the radical character of

the transformation as we contemplated the enormous variety of attractions

here presented, more numerous and unlike any others ever brought together.

Therefore, it is a very difficult task to give the reader an exact idea of

the impression the Midway Plaisance effected upon its visitors, because we

generally derive our conception of a scene from the comparison it will

bear with similar spectacles.

The "Highway through the Nations" constituted an attractive, novel, and

instructive addition to the Exposition. For, besides enlightening

ourselves in regard to the styles of structures--inhabited by the diverse

nations on the earth,--forming a fine array of villages, castles, towers,

pavilions, pagodas, mosques, and other displays of oriental and occidental

architecture, we viewed the natives of the various countries. There were

representatives of nearly all the races and tribes, constituting the human

population on our planet which is estimated to amount to 1,500,000,000

men. We had a chance to study their features, manners, and customs; their

way of dressing, as well as their language and special occupations. Such

opportunities are only otherwise given to travelers around the globe.

The rays of the descending sun--casting rosy reflections on the beautiful

panorama and the mammoth _Ferris Wheel_, with its gigantic form

overtowering the structures of the Midway Plaisance--gave us the signal

for abandoning this charming realm.

Thus, directing our steps toward the Exposition Grounds, we arrived at the

northwestern portion of Jackson Park where we ascended the entrance to a

station of the _Columbian Intramural Railway_, the first and only electric

elevated railroad, operated by the Third Rail Trolley System.--Conveyed by

the driving power of electricity, we had a delightful ride affording a

fine view upon the northern part of the grounds. Scores of graceful

structures constituting a veritable town of palaces, embodied the best

conceptions of America's greatest architectural display.

A picturesque group of buildings erected by the States and Territories of

the American Union, rose in a semicircle around the _Fine Arts Galleries_,

a palace costing half a million. Grecian-ionic in style, this edifice

represented a pure type of the most refined classic architecture. In the

western portion of this group--facing the North Pond--stood the _Illinois

Building_, adorned by a dome in the center, and a great porch looking

southward.

Surrounded by lawns, walks, beds of flowers, and shrubs, the charming

structures of Foreign Nations were ranged on wide, curved avenues--

affording an interesting aspect.

Just south of the _Foreign_ and _State Buildings_ we observed a

considerable expanse of the lagoon, with inlet to the lake, encompassing

three islands. On the largest one stood--contrasting agreeably in

appearance with the other edifices--the _U.S. Fisheries Building_,

Spanish-Romanesque in style and flanked at each end by a curved arcade

connecting it with two polygonal pavilions.

Leaving the Intramural Train at the North Loop, we arrived at the

Government Building; thus having completed our round-trip on the Fair

Grounds and Midway Plaisance.

When we returned to our floating home, we had the satisfaction of having

obtained the best possible results of our first visit by properly

utilizing every minute.

It will be obvious to the reader that the excursion just described, was

equivalent to a trip around the world; wherefore I am entitled to the

assertion that it even surpassed Nellie Bly's remarkable feat who needed

seventy-two days, six hours, and eleven minutes for accomplishing her

circumterraneous voyage.

This success was due to the management of Mr. James, who made his

intelligence effectual, in unison with great experience, gained by having

attended the grand international expositions held in the course of several

decades in the different sections of the globe.

Since there did not exist accommodations for a safe anchorage for yachts

along the piers of the White City, we were obliged to sail back to the

Chicago Harbor. The ride on the billows of Lake Michigan, however, was

very enjoyable after the heat of the day. Fanned by the cooling

sea-breezes, which we inhaled in the fullness of delight, our eyes rested

in perfect rapture on the glorious panorama of the grounds extending

toward the lake shore. The superb structures rising vaguely and obscurely

in a shadowy expanse under the gloom of the growing twilight, were later

beautifully illuminated by uncountable electric lights; from the powerful

arc-light of 8,000 candles to the delicate incandescent lamp of

one-sixteenth candle power gleaming like tiny fire-flies in the distance.

It filled us with amazement to cogitate, that human mind and manual skill

could create a spot on earth looking so much like a conception of

paradise.

The next morning when corroborating our nerves by a hearty breakfast, Mr.

James announced to us the programme of the day which set forth that we

should witness in detail the attractions of the Midway Plaisance--a

proposal that pleased us very much.

Having again disembarked at the pier of the Exposition Grounds, the

Intramural Railway conveyed us rapidly--running with a velocity of twelve

miles an hour--to the entrance of the International Highway.

We commenced with the attractions at the right hand side--and having

passed the displays of the _Diamond Match Company_ and the _Workingmen's

Home_--the international Dress and Costume Exhibit, known as the _Congress

of Beauty,_ attracted our attention. Between forty and fifty pretty living

representatives pertaining to the fair sex of different nationalities,

races, and types were dressed in distinctive national or racial costumes.

The _California Nursery_ and _Citrus Tree Exhibit_ separated this Beauty

Show from the _Electric Scenic Theater_, which may be regarded as a

triumph of the modern progress in the electrical science. It depicted the

changes of a beautiful Swiss Alpine scenery as such are gradually

occurring from dawn till night--representing the magical and most

wonderfully realistic effects ever produced by electric lamps.

Visiting the _Libbey Glass Works_, we obtained a very clear idea of the

art of manufacturing glass--by following up the different processes of

melting, blowing, cutting, spinning, weaving etc. all of which were in

full operation in this exhibit.

In fact, the endeavor of this company to instruct the spectator in every

detail of the work--was a complete success and exceedingly satisfactory.

The ingenious construction of their magnificent building was especially

adapted to enable the daily throngs--resorting to it--to have every

opportunity for observation; and judging from what we saw, and the various

comments we heard, we should be inclined to feel that the management had

every reason to be satisfied with their splendid effort.

The artistic products manufactured solely by this company, and shown in

the diverse departments--as well as those, decorating the Crystal Art

Display Rooms--equal anything in the past and present, not excepting the

celebrated Bohemian and Venetian manufactures of world-wide fame; and

certainly the exhibition of cut glass made by the Libbey Company at this

Exposition, has established the fact, that foreign manufactures can no

longer claim to turn out the best artistic work; for truly, in that rich

and unrivaled display, the summit of clear glass making and magical

effects in cutting and polishing have been achieved.

Especially attractive were the tapestries and fabrics woven from spun

glass. This was decidedly notable in the marvelous dress woven from one

loom for the Spanish Princess Eulalia at a cost of $2,500. That these

goods also serve as a canvas does for artistic work--was evidently proved

by the sundry beautiful effects of this kind in the Crystal Art Room.--It

would be impossible to enumerate the various articles produced in this

wonderful and interesting display; but it is safe to say--the working

exhibit of the Libbey Glass Company--in their palatial and costly

structure was one of the chief features of the Midway Plaisance and the

ever memorable Columbian Exposition.

A gateway--reminding us of mediaeval times--ushered the visitor into the

_Irish Village_ and _Donegal Castle_, a representative exhibit of Irish

industry, art, and antiquity. The scenes there--were picturesque and

uniquely Hibernian. In one of the cottages Irish lace-making could be

noted; in another was shown by Hibernians the whole process of dyeing,

carding, spinning and weaving home-spuns as well as various other branches

of industrial developments in Ireland.

A few steps sufficed to transfer us from here--a representation of the

extreme western portion of Europe to the most eastern country on the

Eastern Hemisphere--Japan; which fact demonstrated the verity: _Les

extrêmes se touchent_. Entering the Japanese bazaar, we observed Japanese

ladies and gentlemen selling articles manufactured in--and imported from

Nipon.

A highly interesting study of the natives of West Java (Dutch East

Indies)--their occupations--and their bamboo huts--could be had in the

_Javanese Village_ exhibiting more than a hundred little men with bright

and cheerful Malay faces, and thirty-six short women whose graceful

movements were a source of attraction to thousands of visitors.

This scene of the tropical regions stood in striking contrast with a

feature in immediate nearness--pertaining to a temperate clime--the

_German Village_. Here, in the spacious concert-garden shaded by the dense

foliage of numerous oak-trees, two German military bands, one of the

infantry and one of the cavalry--seventy-four men in all--gave grand _echt

deutsche Militaerconcerte_. The group of typical German peasant homes, the

Black Forest House, the Westphalian Inn, the Upper Bavarian Home, and the

Spreewald House, together with the Hessian Rural Town-hall, and the Castle

were exact reproductions of mediaeval times. A portion of this stronghold

from a remote date, was given up to the ethnographic museum; a collection

chiefly of implements of war and of chase, illustrative of all periods

beginning with the pre-historic and ending with the renaissance. An

attractive group in wax constituted the figure of Germania, surrounded by

German heroes from Arminius down to William I.

The _Pompeii Panorama_--near by--showed a very realistic representation of

this city destroyed by the eruption of the Vesuvius in 79. This display

was succeeded by the _Persian Theater_ and the _Model of the Eiffel

Tower_.

We left the crowded roadway, and entered the narrow _Street in Cairo_

which made an imposing impression with its strange, oriental facades--the

picturesque shops--and the quaint overhanging upper stories of the ancient

Egyptian city. Natives of this African country--which is fertilized by the

waters of the Nile--manufactured and had for sale Egyptian, Arabian, and

Soudanese articles. Donkeys and camels were engaged in carrying visitors

who chose to admire the busy thoroughfare seated on the backs of these

animals. The native camel-drivers in their national costumes moved around

and mingled with the strangers--which gave the populated street a peculiar

charm to the eye, whereas the "Bum-Bum Candy" sold by Egyptian

confectioners, afforded a strange sensation to the palate of the visitor.

Here, where the architecture, the surroundings, and the people were as far

removed from anything American as could well be imagined, we really--for

some minutes--were lost to all consciousness of being in that extremely

modern city, called Chicago.

After having viewed the side attractions to which belonged the Egyptian

temple--resembling the temple of Luxor--the tombs of the ancient kings,

and fac-similes of mummies, we entered the _Algerian and Tunisian

Village_. Besides a theater, it contained a great number of booths or

bazaars in which a choice selection of goods of all kinds--peculiar to

Algiers--was for sale.

Proceeding southward through the frequented avenue, we saw--in

succession--the _Kilauea Panorama_, a vivid picture of the great volcano

of _Hawaii_, with all the surrounding scenery--an _American Indian

Village_, showing the remnants of some of the greatest North American

Indian tribes, and their manner of living--and a _Chinese Village_

including a theater, a joss house, and a bazaar.

The most southwestern portion of the Midway Plaisance was occupied by the

"Wild East Show" where performances were given by Bedouin Arabs. With

their short Turkish swords--the cimeters--they accomplished feats of such

intrepidity and daring as to cause the spectators' blood to coagulate in

their veins.

Bending our steps westward again, our attention was fixed upon the

attractions on the north; _id est_ on our right hand side.

Very striking to our eyes were two exhibits the comparison of which

established the fact that they were as unlike each other as could be

fancied. Not only that the two villages contrasted greatly by their

external appearance; but the scenes and inhabitants that they encompassed,

were in direct opposition. Reader, can you realize that here from the

North Pole to the Equator there was but one step? _Laplanders_, from the

Arctic region in Europe, the next-door neighbors of barbarians from the

Torrid Zone in Africa? Although both low in the scale of humanity, the

fierce and savage _Natives of Dahomey_ with their repulsive habits

exhibited the characteristics of the very undermost order of mankind.

But the mind was at once relieved from this sad picture of human

debasement by the refined and attractive scenes in the _Austrian Village_,

inclosing realistic reproductions of thirty-six buildings as they existed,

more than a century ago, in old Vienna, deservedly eulogized in the song:

Es gibt nur a Kaiserstadt

Es gibt nur a Wien;

Da muss es praechtig sein,

Da moecht' ich hin!

Having arrived at the center of the spacious promenade, we ascended one of

the six northern platforms, communicating by turns with thirty-six aerial

coaches, suspended by an iron axle to the periphery of the mammoth _Ferris

Wheel_. A conductor invited us to step into a coach, as the appropriate

moment had arrived, whereupon we entered a car having the seating capacity

of forty persons, and almost the size of an ordinary Pullman Palace Car.

Ere we were conscious of any movement, the monster wheel was slowly

revolving in response to the powerful machinery by which it was

operated--a trophy of the modern era of eminent progress. The total weight

of the moving mass was 1,200 tons; and its construction involved the

expenditure of $400,000. Reader, if you have not experienced the charm of

this circular ride through a circumference of about 785 feet, you hardly

can convey to your mind the conception of the fascination it afforded.

Since the motion of the coaches was almost imperceptible, we could enjoy

the trip--(viz)--two complete revolutions of the wheel--without the least

excitement naturally aroused by rapid movement. Imagine the sensation of

being carried up 250 feet on one side--and of being slowly lowered on the

other; fancy the enjoyment and delight when gradually gaining a complete

view of the Fair Grounds and the Midway Plaisance--a bird's eye-view of

the whole of Chicago--and also a good portion of Lake Michigan. Dear

reader, you will certainly acknowledge the fact that such a ride surpassed

any similar brief journey ever taken. For, what other device for

transportation can maintain the claim of enabling its passengers to look

upon the whole world during twenty-five minutes!--

"When you get used to the motion

Only delight you will feel:

Gone is each terrified notion

Once in the circle of steel.

And you enjoy the commotion

Clap and applaud with much zeal:

For it surpasses old ocean

To ride in the great 'Ferris Wheel.'"

The sun--being almost too liberal in the expenditure of heat--made us long

for a refreshing breeze. Therefore we decided to ride in the

_Ice-Railway._ Here we had opportunity to feel the excitement caused by

velocity of motion. For a seventy mile-an-hour locomotive would have been

monotonous and tiresome in comparison with a dash around the ice-railway

track, containing 850 feet, and covering an elliptic space whose surface

had a coat of ice nearly an inch thick. Over this smooth and glistening

substance the bobsleigh was gliding with the speed of a toboggan and the

ease of a coaster to the merry jingle of sleigh bells.

This exhibit--whose cost amounted to $100,000--gave an example of

inventive genius, and also of the successful application--in a novel

manner--of the principles of refrigeration.

The beautiful building next to the Ice Railway environed an excellent

imitation _en miniature_ of the magnificent _Cathedral of St. Peter_ in

Rome, its size being one-sixteenth of the original. When viewing this

model, the elaborate papal throne, and the Vatican Guards in the exact

uniform of the pope's attendants, one might imagine to have been conveyed

into _la bella Italia_ by the agency of a magic wand.

Promenading more eastward, we found ourselves _vis-a-vis_ the _Moorish

Palace_, a fine reproduction of Saracenic architecture, the famous

Alhambra in Granada, Spain.

The attractions exhibited in the interior of this structure could, indeed,

bear a comparison with those offered in a realm of enchantment. The

optical illusions, produced by ingeniously arranged mirrors, were a

pleasing surprise to the visitor. Luxuriant palms decorating the

labyrinthian garden appeared to be endless in number--casting their shade

over hundreds of life-like figures in gaudy costumes. Each of these groups

in wax, was multiplied again and again in the perspective of mirrors.

Entering the palace, the visitor was unable to shake off the feeling of

perplexity caused by the extraordinary spectacles to be witnessed within

its walls. The most startling surprises were the bottomless well, the

cave, the monster kaleidoscope, and the panopticon. A touching scene,

produced in wax, represented the execution of the unfortunate Queen Marie

Antoinette. So realistic was its effect that many tender-hearted mortals

could not refrain from shedding tears of sympathy for the ill-fated

consort of Louis XVI of France.

A personage of special interest in the _Turkish Village_ was "Far-a-way

Moses"--the celebrated guide and counselor of Americans, visiting the

shores of the Bosporus--who has been immortalized by Mark Twain. With a

pleasant smile his popular face, he gave a cordial greeting to every

visitor.

The various scenes constituted a true reproduction of Ottoman life. The

decorations in the Turkish theater were in purely oriental style; and the

representations on the stage showed the manners and customs of the

countries embracing the Turkish Empire. The Bedouin Camp, north of the

grand bazaar, displayed the peculiarities of a nomadic life of those

Arabian tribes.

Adjacent to a Turkish cafe, the _Panorama of the Bernese Alps_ was on

exhibition. A beautiful painting showed the grand scenery of Grindelwald,

the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau, Schreckhorn, Jura, the village of

Lauterbrunnen, and the little town of Thun.

Ushered by a gate into the _Johore Village_, we viewed the habitations,

weapons, apparels, and curiosities of that Malay tribe. The performance

given by one of the natives stood in striking contrast with what we

understand by the art of dancing. In fact, it was more a series of

graceful poses with slow rythmic movements of hands and feet. This

peculiar dance effected a strange impression upon us; but seemed to amuse

our Baby Virginia beyond measure, who, on the arms of her faithful nurse,

attempted to produce movements similar to those she had just witnessed.

The _South Sea Islanders' Village_ exhibited Malays from Sumatra, Borneo,

Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, and other islands belonging to Oceanica. The

huts and their occupants had a strong resemblance with those of the

Javanese village whose inhabitants, however, were more agreeable-looking

people.

Paying a visit to _Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena_, we first admired his

famous menagerie, which comprised rare varieties of quadrupeds, and a fine

collection of birds.

In a circus modeled on the plan of the Coliseum of Rome, we witnessed

performances that evinced the wonderful docility Mr. Hagenbeck's animals

possess, and manifested the complete control their trainers have over

them.

We had already seen innumerable circus feats; but those performed on this

occasion, surpassed them all. For, such a perfection in training ferocious

animals is extremely rare. _Vraiment_, the five Nubian giant lions

afforded an imposing aspect; and their performances were simply marvelous,

indicating that--while human ingenuity and skill subdued the great forces

of nature to the use of mankind--also the fierce, majestic king of beasts

is made submissive to man's will by his master power over all.

_Industrial_, _Mining_, _Diving_, and _Horticultural Exhibits_ occupied the

remaining space of this eastern portion, whose extremity was taken up by

_Lady Aberdeen's Irish Village_. Here the displays were similar to those

inclosed in Mrs. Hart's Irish Village, already described; but the novel

feature of _Blarney Castle_ was the renowned Magic Stone, supposed to

possess extraordinary virtues.

Thus, the unique Highway through the Nations afforded a prolific source

for sight-seeing, and furthermore, was a sore trial to our organs of

hearing. Musical and unmusical instruments of every description were in

operation--from the Javanese salendon and pelog to the tuneful

instruments, masterly handled by the excellent German bands.

This visit to the Midway Plaisance established the fact, that the

theories--admitted by the study of geography--could not be brought into

consideration. How should space and time be in existence when a few steps

sufficed to convey us from the land of perpetual snow to the zone of

exotic plants and tropical fruit!

"Who can all the tribes and nations name

That to Plaisance from every climate came?"

The Chinese and Turk, German and Cingalese, Esquimaux and Javanese,

Irishman and Polynesian, Bedouin and Laplander, Austrian and Soudanese,

Syrian, Nubian, and Japanese--all had a temporary home within the limits

of a tract of land covering eighty acres.

The sinking sun which crimsoned the structures of the Midway Plaisance,

exhorted us to abandon this place of international _rendez-vous_--and to

return on board the "Marguerite;" since she was to convey us back to the

Chicago Harbor.

Gliding along on the crystalline lake,

"We breathed the airs, not ruffling its face.

Until we came to a quiet place."

The latter we chose for our nightly abode; again casting anchor in the

so-called Basin near the Chicago Breakwater.

The approaching night fully deserved its title--the season of silence and

repose. The atmosphere was unusually mild. In the eastern portion of the

sky the light of _Luna_ grew brighter and brighter. Her large, white

circle silvered the tranquil waters and the environing scenes. In front of

us at the airy distance, we viewed the beautiful White City rising from

out the wave as from the stroke of the enchanter's wand; being brilliantly

illumined. Around us lights of many colors flashed from vessels of every

description that lay moored in our vicinity. The scenic beauty of the

surroundings, the balmy air, the charming quietude on the lake--all this

fascinated us in such a manner as to make us reluctant to seek the repose,

to which we were entitled by the long day's extraordinary experiences.

On arriving at the Exposition Grounds the following morning, we observed

that--in spite of the early hour--the promenades were unusually

frequented. This fact was due to the celebration of the Illinois Day which

had attracted a multitude of citizens from Chicago and environs. In

accordance with our unanimous desire--to first view the interior of the

largest edifice, we entered one of its four great entrances designed in

the manner of triumphal arches. The MANUFACTURES BUILDING was erected for

the purpose of accommodating all classes of leading industries--the

products of modern machinery and man's skillful handiwork--which, in this

epoch of constant progress, have attained a high stage of perfection. And

comparing the achievements of the present age with those recorded in the

annals of history, proves that opinion.

Having stepped into the central aisle at the northern end of the mammoth

structure, we found ourselves in a broad street, called Columbia Avenue.

Glancing around, we were dazzled by the resplendent glory of an aspect

almost overpowering. The fine display included those exhibits which

exemplified most advantageously the modern industrial progress made by the

various nations on the globe. Artistic pavilions, oriental pagodas, and

quaint kiosks had been provided for most of the exhibits. The United

States section--covering the entire range of manufactures, and extending

from the extreme northwestern corner to the avenue east and west--evinced

the high rank of the Union in the industrial world in consequence of its

uncommon wealth, and the inventive genius of Americans in the production

of labor-saving devices and improved machinery.

All the great firms were represented, commending the abnormal variety of

domestic industries. It was, indeed, a matter of difficulty to decide

which of them was paramount. Tiffany's costly exhibits in jewels,

especially diamonds, housed in a beautiful pavilion, attracted the

visitor's eyes.

Opposite this structure, Germany had a stately building. Gobelin

tapestries and handsome furniture adorned its interior. The elegant rooms

were modeled after the reception _salon_ of the Imperial Palace in Berlin,

and that of King Louis of Bavaria. All the various products of industrial

pursuits--inclosed in this pavilion--manifested the intelligence and

dexterity of the German nation.

Austria had a rich display, principally in jewelry and ornamental

decorations, in an adjoining edifice. A splendid collection, including

everything in the line of manufactures, was shown in the English Pavilion,

which rose south of the German exhibits. Facing the former, France

occupied a structure whose walls were adorned with costly tapestries, and

whose ceramic, furniture, and household decorations were worthy of the

highest admiration. Next to the Belgian section a sumptuous pavilion

housed an enormous outlay of diverse Russian manufactures.

At the southern end of Columbia Avenue a magnificent building formed the

gateway to a rich collection of Italian art ware and industries. The

handsome Spanish Pavilion was succeeded by typically Persian exhibits

consisting prominently of carpets, curtains, silk needlework, and

tapestries. Mexico, the land of _mañana_ and _poco tiempo_ was represented

by costly decorations and art feather-work. The facade of the Siamese

structure--close by--covered with gold leaf, was imposing and attractive.

Displays of manufactured goods had been made by scores of other countries,

all of which to enumerate would be an impossibility.

As we reached the northwestern portion of the gigantic building, we were

delighted with the sight of the Japanese Pavilion, one of the most

valuable structures. Upon its construction the Japanese government had

expended a great amount of money. The superb exhibits in works of art,

bric-a-brac, and other exquisite manufactures brought to view by this

nation, evinced an eminent talent and great ingenuity.

The Mikado--to whom is due the rapid progress civilization has made in his

country within the last ten years--was the first of the foreign monarchs

to demonstrate an active interest in the exposition.

The melodious chimes resounding from the belfry of a clock-tower in the

center of Columbia Avenue, caused us to take notice of the rapidly

elapsing time. To our surprise, the immense time-piece indicated an

advanced hour in the afternoon.

We could not abandon the superb temple, so amply filled with the products

of human industry, embracing that which was regally magnificent, as well

as that most applicable to our daily needs--without an enthusiastic

thrill. If man is weak in many things, he is also grand in much; and every

thoughtful observer must have paused upon this threshold to pay a tribute

to that untiring energy which must make the world better for its existence

and progress.

We entered the next great structure to the northwest. Here, the GOVERNMENT

of the UNITED STATES from its Executive Departments, the Smithsonian

Institution, the U.S. Fish Commission, and the National Museum, exhibited

such articles and materials as illustrate the function and administrative

faculty of the government in time of piece, as well as its resources as a

war power.

Taking the south-entrance, our attention was first turned to the

collection of the Smithsonian exhibits. They showed the results of

scientific investigations during the forty-seven years of its existence,

and the scope of its work.

The contributions from the National Museum represented the natural

resources of the United States: Rare specimens of the American fauna;

illustrations showing the geological variations within the limits of the

United States and the utilization of nature's rich gifts bestowed upon

this country. This department gave us occasion to obtain an entire idea of

the enormous melioration, arts and industries have experienced in modern

times--by means of exhibits demonstrating the history and development of

ceramics, graphic arts, musical instruments; as well as many important

trades from the most primitive stages to the present day. Here also were

interesting studies in ethnology, prehistoric anthropology, archeology,

religious ceremonials, zoology, mineralogy, and geology.

The Treasury Department--more westward--contained models, pictures,

charts, and diagrams elucidating the Marine Hospital Service, Coast and

Geodetic Survey, the Mint of the United States, the Bureau of Engraving

and Printing, the U.S. Lighthouse Establishment, the Bureau of Internal

Revenue, the Register's Office, and the Bureau of Statistics.

In the adjoining division assigned to the Postoffice, we could trace the

subject of transportation which plays so prominent a part in the history

of civilization--by means of models, drawings, and pictures from the most

incipient stages to the modern uses of steam and electricity.

The northwestern portion of this interesting building was given up to the

Department of the Interior; embracing the Patent Office, the Bureau of

Education, the Census Office, and the U.S. Geological Survey.

In the rotunda we viewed the "_Big Tree_," a section thirty feet in

length, cut from Sequoia Gigantea, a tree 300 feet high whose diameter at

the base covered a space of twenty-six feet. It grew in the Sequoia

National Park in the charming clime of California. Under the central dome

were also shown 138 colonial exhibits--relics of historic value from days

long gone by.

The War Department was well represented in all its branches; regarding

uniforms and equipage, means of transportation, military engineering,

shooting apparatuses, ammunition, etc.

Having visited the State and Justice Departments, we repaired to the

division in which the government displayed (in the Department of

Agriculture) a very complete and comprehensively arranged collection of

grains obtained in this and other countries.

Very interesting were the adjacent exhibits, presenting to view the topics

of food adulteration, entomology, pomology, botany, ornithology, and

mammalogy; together with experiments in fibre investigation.

Betaking ourselves to the northern division, we were instructed--by

various illustrations--of the methods employed by the scientific branch of

the Fish Commission in determining the habits, peculiar to denizens of

water. Models and apparatuses showed the results of Fish Culture.

The displays in this unique building covering almost all the branches of

modern science and arts, bore testimony to the fact that the United States

now rank with the most powerful nations on the globe; and to this

attainment only a little more than one century of development was

requisite. This says everything for American enterprise and genius--and a

country so young in a very old world.

The circumstance of its being a calm evening--with the prospect of a

pyrotechnic display later--permitted us to remain on the Fair Grounds

longer than we usually did; hence we determined to visit still another

structure.

By crossing a bridge over the lagoon, we arrived at the _Fisheries

Building_. In the main edifice we first saw fishing-tackles, nets, and

other apparatuses used by fishermen, and shown by the American Net and

Twine Co. The contiguous space to the right was given up to the exhibits

of several States in the Union, especially noted for fisheries, and of

various foreign countries as Japan, the Netherlands, Canada, France, Great

Britain, Russia, and Norway. Walking through a curved arcade, we beheld on

either side aquaria of an enormous capacity, inclosing both denizens of

fresh and salt water. It is safe to say the display of aquatic life made

here, could rival the greatest permanent aquaria in existence; not only as

to their voluminousness, but the immense variety of their specimens.

Especially striking to the eye was a magnificent group of gold fishes. The

huge bull-cat fish and the gigantic turtle were conspicuous by their

monstrousness. We removed to the eastern extremity of the Fisheries

Building, forming a spacious circular pavilion. In the rotunda a basin,

twenty-six feet wide, presented a beautiful scenic effect. Over rocks

picturesquely arranged, the silver meshes of a brook wound their way,

forming here and there white gushes of waterfall which contrasted

agreeably with the moss covered stones, and the semi-aquatic plants. The

latter adorned the pool below, in which golden-hued fishes moved lightly

to and fro. The inspection of the angling pavilion at the extreme western

side of the Fisheries Building completed our visit in this fine structure,

whose exhibits demonstrated largely the fishery wealth of the United

States.

Taking advantage of the extraordinary calmness of the atmosphere, our

mindful commodore resolved to moor the yacht in vicinity of the Exposition

Grounds. For, he wished to give us opportunity to witness the display of

pyrotechnics announced for the latter part of the evening, in

solemnization of the Illinois Day. Therefore, the "Marguerite" conveyed us

to a place which proved exceedingly favorable for our design. Here, our

floating home was anchored. Enjoying a full vista of the White City, we

found a prolific source of admiration in the grand electric spectacles.

The illumination of the _Columbia fountain_ in front of the Administration

Building, and the display of two electric fountains in the western

extremity of the South Pond, were magical in effectiveness. Wonderful

flash-lights blazed from the tops of the tallest towers, surmounting the

larger structures. Whenever the operator threw the search-light

investigably over the yacht, we shut our eyes spontaneously at its

dazzling brilliancy.

As the gathering shadows of night wrapped land and water in darkness, the

hour arrived in which the visitors on the Fair Grounds--who seemed to be

almost as numerous as the sands on the shore--expected to view the scenic

effects produced by means of fire.

We sat on the deck of the yacht as comfortably as in our _boudoirs_ at

home. Nevertheless, we were able to enjoy _ad libitum_ the same sight that

so many others in the White City could only see with difficulty, on

account of the unusual throngs. When we reflected on this circumstance--so

much in our favor--our hearts were filled with gratitude toward our

commodore, who had selected this excellent locality. From here we admired

the exceedingly fine pyrotechnic displays. Girandoles pierced the sky in

all directions, with rushing lines of fire. Sky-rockets exhibiting rich

hues of purple, red, and green ascended through the air; and when reaching

the highest point of their blazing paths, they discharged beautiful

garnitures of floating stars, sparks, crackers, serpents, gold and silver

rain. Tourbillions mounting and rotating through the atmosphere, formed

brilliant spiral curves of fire. Splendid effects of changing color were

brought to view by revolving fire-wheels. An appropriate _finale_

constituted the burning of the American flag, which bore a sublime

character in the brightness of fire.

"Flag of the free heart's hope and home,

By angel hands to valor given:

Thy stars have lit the welkin dome,

And all thy hues were born in heaven"

As the first faint smile of the morning peeped over the eastern wave, I

rose--greatly refreshed by a sound sleep. Coming on deck, I found that

the sun's unclouded orb already poured its rays of light upon the earth.

Our eyes rested with delight on the White City throned on its numerous

isles, looking like a sea Cybele--ascending from the lake with her tiara

of proud towers.

At our arrival on the Fair Grounds, Mr. James thoughtfully provided us

with guides and rolling-chairs--vehicles which reminded us of the Japanese

Jin-riki-sha.

The main entrance of the AGRICULTURAL BUILDING--adorned on either side by

mammoth Corinthian pillars--ushered us into a vestibule, richly ornamented

with appropriate statuary. From here, we reached a rotunda surmounted by a

gigantic glass dome. When looking about on the main floor, we fancied

ourselves to be in a city of pavilions. For, the States of the Union as

well as the foreign nations had environed their displays with magnificent

little temples and pagodas. To a great extent, they formed exhibits

themselves, because in most cases the chief products of the respective

country had been utilized for their construction. Nebraska, for example,

had employed sweet corn for the erection of its pavilion.

Every state and territory was represented by its productions; the Northern

States with Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, rye, and other cereals; the

South with cotton, rice, sugar, etc. Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky,

and Tennessee evinced their noted superiority in the culture of the

nicotian plant, which is in such great favor with the consumers of

tobacco.

Agricultural and other food displays were shown in great varieties by the

foreign countries. In the German section the gigantic Chocolate Tower

(built of several hundred tons of chocolate by the famous firm "Gebrueder

Stollwerck" in Cologne) compelled admiration. The Liebig exhibit of canned

and preserved meat was a prominent feature of this division. Great Britain

showed specimens of grain from the English experimental grounds,

representing the effects of artificial fertilization on the various seeds.

The contributions made by Canada embraced grain, seeds, and roots; and its

eleven ton cheese constituted one of the unique exhibits in this edifice.

As in all great departmental structures, Japan was well represented. It

had a fine display of its chief exports--tea, rice, and raw silk. Russia's

showing covered a space of 32,000 feet. New South Wales, France, Mexico,

Austria, Denmark, Sweden, and numerous other foreign countries

demonstrated, likewise, the variety and wealth of their natural resources.

Besides the farm products of the world in all their diversity and

perfection, agricultural machinery was exhibited: Devices of every

description from the most primitive implements to the highly improved

machines as they are in use at the present day. The ingenious arrangement

of this display enabled the visitor to perceive at a glance the enormous

progress made in that branch of industry. Thus, we viewed in the annex of

the main floor one of the most perfected plows--the "Queen"--a trophy of

modern inventiveness. And beside it stood an implement, which reminded us

by its simplicity and unwieldiness of an apparatus, described in mythology

as used by _Ceres dea agriculturae_--when teaching to mankind this

important occupation.

The south-western portion of the first floor was covered with instructive

contributions of American agricultural colleges and experiment stations.

They embraced the entire field of scientific research in all branches of

husbandry; illustrating the most improved methods of cultivation, and

explaining how the best results may be secured.

The great galleries contained a fine wool exhibit, an interesting apiary

display, dairy implements, and a vast collection of manufactured food

products.

The multitudinous objects brought to view in this building, proved beyond

doubt, that the standard of excellence in that ancient occupation has been

achieved mainly with the assistance of scientific researches.

A colonnade formed the connecting link between the Palace of Agriculture

and the Machinery Hall. In its center, from an archway--leading to the

_live-stock exhibit_--we enjoyed a fine view down the lagoon--extending

nearly a mile in length.

As adjuncts to the agricultural department, may be regarded the displays

in the _Dairy_ and _Forestry Buildings_.

On entering the PALACE OF MECHANICAL ARTS, three elevated traveling cranes

running from end to end of the structure, attracted our attention. They

had been utilized in the work of construction, as well as in moving the

machines presented to view. The platforms erected upon them, gave us

occasion to look upon the entire machinery exhibition. The driving power

used in the main building and annex was steam; excepting two small

sections driven by electric motors. Adjoining the south side of the

edifice extended the enormous power plant. It supplied the Machinery Hall

with a total steam power of about 3,000 horses generated by twelve

engines. The entire plant, comprising over sixty steam-engines, and

operating 127 dynamos, represented a most stupendous display of mechanical

energy hitherto unequaled. Its total capacity was equivalent to 20,000

H.P.

The domestic exhibits located in the western portion of the main

building--but mostly in the annex, revealed the marvelous progress made

during the last decades in this wonderfully prospering country. Shown by

great firms from almost every state and territory were devices of various

forms: Motors and apparatuses for the generation and transmission of

power--fire-engines and other appliances for extinguishing a

conflagration--machine tools and devices for working metals--machinery for

the manufacture of textile fabrics and clothing, for cutting wood, for

typesetting, printing, embossing, book making and paper working,

lithography, and photo-mechanical process, for working-stone, clay, and

other minerals. In short, there were machines of every description

employed in all industrial pursuits imaginable; yea, even appliances for

facilitating the housekeepers' daily duties as laundry- and dish-washing

machines.

In fact, it must require a considerable effort to excogitate novel

labor-saving devices. Nevertheless, man's ever active ingenuity constantly

increases the number of meliorated contrivances.

The pump exhibit was grouped around a tank of water, comprising an area of

7,500 feet. Here at the junction of the main hall and annex, scores of

modern pumps were in active operation.

Of the foreign countries we found Germany best represented, quantitatively

as well as qualitatively. The other prominent displays were made by

France, Great Britain, Canada, Belgium, Russia, Spain, Italy, Mexico, New

South Wales, Austria, and Switzerland.

Here, the mechanical engineer was enabled to make studies of incalculable

profit for his professional career; and even the lay mind received a vast

amount of information.

We abandoned the Machinery Hall at its northern extremity, and repaired to

the most magnificent structure on the Exposition Grounds. The exterior of

the ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, so rich in architectural treatment, had

compelled our admiration, to be sure; but the interior features even

exceeded it in splendor. The four mammoth entrances were beautifully

adorned by statuaries of emblematic character. There exist but few

edifices of similar character, whose ornamentations rival those of its

interior dome, which rose 200 feet from the floor.

The four corner pavilions, four stories high, contained offices for the

various departments of the Administration; Board and Committee rooms; the

Postoffice; a Bank, etc.

An exhibit, manifesting the unrivaled wealth of the republic, and placed

in the center of the rotunda on the first floor was an excellent

reproduction of the Capitol in Washington in miniature, erected of silver

coins: indeed a master-piece. I shall leave it to the reader to find out

how many of the half dollar-pieces were needed for the construction of

this unique building, contributed by the U.S. Government. To our regret

Mr. George R. Davis, Director-General of the Columbian exposition, whom we

intended to call upon, was absent. So we determined to have the

ELECTRICITY BUILDING next in our programme.

The sundry appliances of electricity dispersed in all parts of the

grounds, gave us already a conception of the incomparable rapidity with

which it has developed--both as an industry and science. The intramural

railway demonstrated the latest application of electric motor power to

elevated railroads.

The illumination of the grounds and buildings showed the marvelous

progress achieved in electric lighting, and the expertness in obtaining

brilliant spectacular effects. The electric launches on the lagoons

manifested the usage of electricity for water-transportation.

All these practical exhibits represented purely commercial features,

whereas the displays in the building--we just had entered--offered a field

of relevations as regards the extraordinary accomplishments in the

electrical science. They embraced all the improvements from the earlier

inventions to the latest marvels.

In the southern portion of the main floor, the United States showed

various devices for creating the three economic commodities--light, heat,

and power.

With great interest we inspected the numerous apparatuses illustrating the

phenomena and laws of electricity--the instruments for electrical

measurements--the electric batteries--and the machines for producing

electrical currents by mechanical power. How transmission and regulation

of these currents are effected, could be studied by a vast number of

devices.

A very interesting group constituted the electric motors and their

manifold applications as to street and other railways; to mining, to

elevators, pumps, printing presses, and domestic appliances.

The creation of light by electricity was beautifully elucidated by the

weird illumination of the Edison Light Tower in the center of the

building, and the Egyptian Temple in its south-eastern portion. Countless

incandescent lamps were glowing in all the colors of the rainbow. The

luminary effect gave us the impression as if a fiery serpent was

meandering along these iridescent glass-tubes with inimitable velocity.

Among the inventions of later date may be reckoned the use of electricity

in heating; especially for industrial operations as electric forging,

welding, brazing, tempering, etc.

The lay mind is almost incapable of estimating the utilarian capacity of

this great property. Even many branches of modern sciences have received

eminent advancement by its utilization; such as surgery, dentistry,

therapeutics, metallurgy, chemistry, etc.

Germany and France made the most commendable foreign display. Great

Britain, Brazil, Austria, Italy, Japan, and Canada had contributed in

accordance with the development of this novel industry within their

territory.

The gallery was devoted to the wire exhibit and lighter scientific

apparatuses. Here were placed all the recent improvements applied to

telephony and telegraphy.

Professor Elisha Gray's sensational invention--the telautograph--in active

operation, attracted many spectators. It is a very ingenious contrivance,

of which I have given a detailed description in my pamphlet on

electricity--recently published in Cincinnati, O., by the Burgheim

Publishing Co.

The great number of exhibits demonstrated the achievements in the economic

usage of electricity during an amazingly short period. In fact, the

electrician has obtained unequaled results in his profession. To him is

due--to a great extent--the high stage of perfection in sciences, arts,

and industries at the present day.

Nevertheless, the field of electrical scientific researches is by no means

exhausted. However, an entirely new era will have dawned, when the

ever-increasing knowledge reveals to an ingenious inventor a method to

apply the electric current to every-day-usage as easily and inexpensively

as we utilize water at present.

Then the epoch has appeared which may be properly styled the "_Happy_" or

"_Golden Age_." For, many cares and sorrows will be removed at once.

The conscientious housekeeper, for instance, whose domestic duties often

exhaust her bodily strength, will find her burdens greatly lightened. She

has no more to suffer from the intolerable heat of her cooking-stove,

while furnishing repasts on oppressive summer days. The electric current

will cause the water to boil--the meat to broil--and the potatoes to fry.

Yea, her dinner will be cooked ere she is conscious of that fact.

In like manner the electric flat-iron will smoothen her linen without

fatiguing her. But not only the lady of the house will rejoice; also the

poor, hen-pecked husband will be in transports of delight, as it will make

his path easier in many ways. The constant complaints he was hitherto

obliged to endure, will grow mute for ever, and the curtain lecture will

be no more.

Furthermore, should circumstances compel the active business man to part

with his wife for a long time, the marvelous inventions enable their

mutual intercourse during the separation as if time and space were unknown

factors. The lady need not suffer long from inquietude concerning her

husband's safe arrival; for the receiving instrument of her telautograph

reproduces instantaneously his own handwriting. A parcel, sent to her by

express, contains a cylinder to the improved phonograph. When bringing it

in proper contact with this wonderful instrument, she hears her consort's

voice, just as if he was by her side, and a thousand leagues were but a

few inches. Moreover, Edison's kimetograph portrays the beloved features

of her absent spouse. She is now perfectly consoled; for the radiant

expression of his countenance manifests health and happiness.

Having left the imposing Electricity Building, we repaired to a structure

in close proximity dedicated to exhibits of the mineral kingdom. Never

before, the records of international expositions gave account of a similar

fact; namely, that the display made of MINES AND MINING was so capacious

as to require the erection of a special edifice. Its size and

architectural beauties rivaled those of the great structures in Jackson

Park. The magnificent arched entrance of the north front was richly

embellished with sculptural decorations emblematic of mining and its

allied industries. This spacious gateway led us to the main floor, which

presented a spectacle so weird that its impression cannot be easily

effaced. In temples and pavilions of ineffable gorgeousness were exhibits

of gems and precious metals of dazzling beauty. Useful ores and their

products, building stones, soils, salt, petroleum--indeed, everything that

man furthers from the dark entrails of the earth, was offered to

inspection.

Besides the mineral resources of the world in their original state, the

displays embraced many devices of mining machinery; such as pumps and

engines used in mining, moving, and delivering ores; apparatuses for

breaking out ore and coal; for crushing and pulverizing; for reducing

metals, for instance the extraction of gold and silver by milling,

lixiviation, and fire; furthermore, boring and drilling tools; grinding

and polishing substances, etc.

The galleries containing especially the metallurgical collection, had the

appearance of the scientific department of a museum combined with the

laboratory and library of a university.

Moreover, there were offered to view many interesting and instructive

working models, various unique exhibits, and thousands of geological

specimens.

Germany, France, and New South Wales were the leading foreign countries in

this building. Great Britain and her numerous colonies occupied the

largest collective space. The brilliant outlay of the Cape Colony included

40,000 rough diamonds, and illustrated the method of polishing them.

Canada's mineral showing was so ponderous as to exceed the weight of 125

tons. It comprised every known species of mineral, marble, and granite in

that country. In this enormous collection we discovered a block of pure

nickel weighing 4,600 pounds as well as very large nuggets of native gold

and silver. Mexico made its most extensive contributions to this

departmental structure. Brazil, the Argentine Republic, Russia, Spain,

Greece, Italy, Japan, Belgium, Austria, Ecuador, and other foreign nations

were likewise well represented.

The most prominent exhibits were grouped in the eastern section of the

ground floor. They proved the unexcelled mineral wealth of the United

States, particularly in iron, the annual production exceeding 10,000,000

tons.

Pennsylvania took the leading place being pre-eminent in her iron and

steel industries. Her supremacy in the production of "black diamonds" was

manifested by a rich display; one trophy from her immense coal-mines was a

shaft of coal sixty-two feet high, and ten feet square. Colorado's fine

exhibit of precious metals had, as an appropriate frame, a beautiful

pavilion erected entirely from her local products. The abundance of gold

in this important mining state is evinced by the fact that twenty-one of

her thirty-three counties are producing that most desirable and malleable

of all metals.

California--nicknamed the "Golden State"--showed among her vast resources

gold, silver, platinum, quicksilver, copper, lead, zinc, iron, tin,

graphite, crystal, alabaster, corundum, chrysolites, tourmalines, garnets,

diamonds, and other gems. Montana had most largely contributed to this

departmental structure, and inclosed her display of precious metals in a

temple adorned by the famous statue of Justice. Cast from pure silver

valuing $315,000, and modeled after the celebrated actress--Mademoiselle

Rehan--it was set upon a pedestal of gold, forming altogether a work of

art of rare magnificence.

Michigan illustrated attractively her great copper industry; the deposits

of this metal among the primary rocks of her northern section being the

richest in the world.

Of special interest were the mining products of New Jersey. This state

furnished minerals not found anywhere else; for instance the

franklinite--a compound of iron, zinc, and manganese--named from Dr.

Franklin.

Missouri, the first state in the Union to place exhibits in the Mines

Building, environed the same with a beautiful pavilion built from local

products.

The curiosities included in the various State and Territorial displays,

were too numerous to give an account of them all.

Special features were--a miniature coal-mine shown by Iowa; a section of

the world-renowned Mammoth Cave in Kentucky; a statue of rock salt

representing Lot's wife, a contribution from Louisiana; a tunnel

containing a double tramway for the carrying of ore displayed by

Pennsylvania; a model of the largest lead-reducing works in the world from

Missouri; and a miner's cabin built of mineral specimens from the

different counties in the territory of New Mexico.

All the mining exhibits--in their selectness and profusion--gave evidence

of the inexhaustible wealth yet stored up for man's future uses

notwithstanding the geological fact, that the earth's crust has no great

profundity compared with its diameter.

The "_Golden Door_" an immense archway enriched to an extraordinary degree

with carvings, paintings, and overlaid with gold leaf, ushered us into the

TRANSPORTATION BUILDING. It was dedicated to present the origin, growth,

and development of the various methods of abridging distance used in all

parts of the inhabited globe--from remote antiquity up to the present day.

We were charmed with a striking vista of richly ornamented colonnades

which added considerably to the impressive effect of the exhibits. The

latter comprised three general divisions: the railway--marine--and

ordinary road vehicle transportation.

To the first mentioned--as most important--a space of over eight acres had

been devoted. About one-eighth of this area was covered with the "Railways

of the World," an exhibit of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway Co., showing

the development of locomotives and cars from the earliest days to the

modern time. One of the unique features in the American Railroad Section

was the operation of air brakes on a train of a hundred cars, the longest

ever witnessed in a single series.

In the center aisle of the annex, we inspected the chief display of the

Pullman Company, a complete train sumptuously equipped. It embraced

specially built Pullman Cars of the most luxurious character. The

representation of the New York & Chicago Limited Express was, without

doubt, the finest railway train ever constructed.

We received a very adequate idea of the wonderful achievements--evincing

the genius of the age in which we live--in railway conveyance, by the

out-of-door exhibit of the N.Y. Central & Hudson R.R. Co., at the southern

extremity of the annex. Here, the contrast between past and present was

most sharply drawn: The first train, ever used for traffic in this

country, and running between Schenectady and Albany, N.Y.--the opening of

this road was celebrated on the 24th of September, 1831--with its simple

De Witt Clinton engine, was beside a locomotive of gigantic proportions,

the fastest in the world. This stupendous piece of machinery constituted a

portion of the Vanderbilt enterprise.

In the German Section, two locomotives and seven kinds of

_Eisenbahnwagen_, enabled us to decide upon the relative advantages of

this foreign system and the American method of railway transportation.

Great Britain contributed a complete train and locomotive, also a model of

one of the original Stephenson locomotives--the "Rocket." The Railway

Division of France comprised exceedingly interesting French locomotives, a

car, and many models. In the Canadian exhibit, a complete transcontinental

train compelled admiration. Its cars built of solid mahogany, and lighted

by electricity, were constructed and equipped by the Canadian Pacific

Railroad Company. Other foreign nations made their contributions to the

railway division by models or illustrations of different kinds;

prominently Austria, Belgium, Mexico, New South Wales, Sweden, and Norway.

The means of water transportation were so diversified that their

multiplicity can distinctly be conceived by those only who have viewed

them _in persona_.

There were represented: the birch-bark canoe from Alaska--a Norwegian

steamship in miniature--the bimba or log canoe from Africa--the Bohemian

propeller--corials from British Guiana--the Japanese pleasure-boat

"Hoomaru"--the padda boats from Ceylon--the caique from Turkey;

furthermore, models of Spanish war-vessels--Malay boats--Swedish

ice-yachts--folding boats from Canada--Chinese war-ships--barges from

Burmah--French torpedo boats--characteristic coast-vessels from India--

Venetian gondolas--Dutch coast sailing boats--the caravels, Santa Maria,

Nina and Pinta, exhibited by Genoa--Siamese boats--life-boats--naptha

launches--and a great number of small craft shown by the United States.

Of historic interest was the old _bateau_ employed by early French traders

from Quebec, and a model of a boat showing the style used on the Sea of

Galilee in the time of Christ.

The artistic reproductions in miniature of various American, British, and

German ocean steamers played an attractive part in this division. Among

the models of war vessels was the representation of the ill-fated English

cruiser "Victoria," considered to be the finest marine model ever

constructed.

A section from the center of a modern Transatlantic liner reached to the

top line of the gallery; exhibiting a complete interior of an American

steamer.

The development of wheeled vehicles from the first inceptive idea of the

wheel to the present appreciable methods of its use was comprehensively

illustrated. The exhibits were so arranged that the different stages of

improvement could be readily noticed.

The methods employed for conveyance on common roads were shown by

hand-barrows--carts--trucks--drays--farm wagons--sprinkling carts--freight

wagons--breaks, barges, wagonettes for pleasure parties--omnibuses--cabs--

hansoms--pleasure carriages, coaches for four or six horses, Victorias,

broughams, dog-carts, buggies, phaetons, etc.; besides sleighs--snow

shoes--steam and electric carriages--ambulances for the sick and

injured--hearses; furthermore, bicycles and tricycles--rolling chairs for

invalids--baby carriages; in short, vehicles of every possible description.

Almost all the nations on the globe had made their contributions to the

department of vehicle transportation. This rare collection embraced the

palanquin of Africa--the mandarin chair of China--the bullock cart of

Ceylon--the sedan chair of Colombia (South America)--the Sicilian cart of

Palermo--the heavy lumbering cart of India--the queer traveling kroba of

Turkey--the volante of Spain--the tarantass of Russia--the hackney coach

of France--and the dog-cart of England.

Among the relics of special interest to Americans because of their

association with historical personages, we beheld the well preserved

carriages of Daniel Webster and James Knox Polk.

A conspicuous feature in the central court was a model of the largest

steam hammer in the world, utilized in the manufacture of armor plate for

vessels.

On entering the PALACE OF HORTICULTURE north of the Transportation

Building, our organs of sight and olfactory nerves were equally affected

by the dazzling and odoriferous display of exuberant flowers and fruitage.

Had it been admissible, we would have been glad to put our organs of

tasting in active operation, likewise. For, we longed to try the relish of

some of the exquisite pomological exhibits, whose multiformity was too

immense to be portrayed in a pen-picture. Fruits of every form and

description, sent from all zones, climes, and countries were represented

here. Many of the exhibits were maintained at a high standard by being

constantly replenished with fresh fruits at great expense, particularly

the Californian citrus pyramid, comprising 31,150 oranges.

The richly decorated court planted with ornamental shrubs and flowers, led

to the center pavilion which was roofed by a huge crystal dome. This

translucent cover transmitted the light and sunshine necessary for the

floricultural display beneath. Stately palms, tall tree ferns in great

variety, and gorgeous specimens from the flora of almost every section,

formed an immense pyramid of shrubbery. The luxuriously growing vines

entwined their tendrils around the iron-work of the building, adding

greatly to the beauty of the panorama. This superb spectacle recalled to

memory Horace Smith's "Hymn to the Flowers." In one of its fifteen

stanzas, the poet exclaims:

"Not useless are ye, flowers, though made for pleasure,

Blooming over field and wave, by day and night:

From every source your sanction bids me treasure

Harmless Delight."

We descended a cavern, extending underneath this magnificent flower

exhibit. Our scrutinizing eyes met with quite novel features. We observed

that the grotto was lined with glistening crystals from the mammoth cave

of South Dakota. Emerging again to broad daylight, we bent our steps

southward to that portion of the building, where the silver model of the

Horticultural Hall and the miniature Capitol of the Country compelled the

admiration of the beholder.

The south pavilion encompassed the displays of viticulture.

Representations of actual scenes in the vicinity of California vine-yards--

wine cellars--cool grottos--and a highly ornamental fountain throwing

sprays of wine, constituted the most attractive domestic scenes.

A picturesque panorama of the vine-clad banks of the Rhine with its

romantically situated castles--reminiscences of feudal times--formed a

portion of the German wine cellar exhibit; also comprising an excellent

display of _Rhein- und Moselweine_.

Of the foreign wine-growing countries, the most attractive contributions

were made by Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, Germany, Chili, New South

Wales, and Canada.

We abandoned the building in order to view the floricultural out-of-door

exhibits, which covered the large spaces on the lawns adjoining it and the

Wooded Island.

Glancing at the beautiful orchids, roses, carnations, sweet peas,

dianthus, asters, phlox, gladiolus, zinnias, and many other fragrant

flowers, we experienced infinitely more subtle modulations of delight than

can be easily described. The features of the horticultural displays were

so striking that their memory is immortalized:--

"For this picture in my brain

Only fades to come again."

In fact, we had witnessed multifarious sublime spectacles during that

day's sojourn in the White City.

Returning to the pier where the "Marguerite" lay moored, we were greatly

amazed as we caught sight of Lake Michigan--to find its waters lashed into

fury by a northeast gale, of which we had felt nothing while in the

pleasantly tempered Horticultural Building.

Since it was impossible to stay where we were, on account of the exposed

situation, there was no help for it--but to put out for our usual

anchorage, inside the breakwater at Chicago. For my own part, I decided to

remain on deck. Perhaps, had I realized more fully what we had to

encounter, I should have sought my stateroom, with the rest. But I can

truly say: for three-quarters of an hour, my whole energies were employed

to keep my place.

During our entire journey from Schenectady, N.Y., to the White City, we

had not experienced anything like it. Everything of a movable character

had to be secured; and it was an intense relief to all, when after an

extraordinary upheaval--the last effort of the uncontrolled waves upon our

stanch craft--she passed into the peaceful waters behind the breakwater;

completely sheltered from the raging elements, which broke with ceaseless

roar upon the concrete mass.

The following morning as the rest of the party decided to remain in

Chicago for the purpose of viewing the renowned play "America" in the

Auditorium, I visited Jackson Park alone, spending many hours in the

Liberal Arts Building, which inclosed (besides multitudinous magnificent

displays illustrating the department of Liberal Arts) the object of my

special interest, viz. the educational exhibits. They comprised not only

contributions from every State in the Union but also from Germany, Great

Britain, France, Mexico, Canada, Russia, New South Wales, Spain, Belgium,

and Japan.

The general character of them was represented by models and appliances for

teaching, text-books, diagrams, examples, specimens of the school work on

the various scientific subjects, and illustrations of the methods employed

in instruction by the teachers of the different States and Nations.

By means of the ingenious arrangement of these displays, manifesting the

great achievements made in the development of pedagogy, I augmented my

professional learning during the hours of that day to such an extent as

would otherwise require months of careful study. The means of obtaining

these results of so great interest and profit to me as a teacher, were

much facilitated by my knowledge of several of the languages spoken by the

nations represented there. For, I readily understood the reports,

statistics, and text-books sent from the educational institutions of the

leading countries. Furthermore, the commissioners of the respective

sections, whom I addressed in their native tongue, complaisantly gave me

all the additional information I desired.

As I inspected, among the manifold exhibits contributed by the State of

New York, the specimen work from the best pupils of the Art Students'

League, some sketches from life and drawings from the antique attracted my

special attention. They bore the signature of a young gentleman from

Schenectady--Walter M. Clute--a name which, I am certain, will be widely

known in future years as that of a prominent artist of this country.

We spent the following day--Sunday--in Chicago which is perhaps the most

remarkable city in the world for its rapid growth. Its history dates back

to the year 1803, when Fort Dearborn was erected. Abandoned at the

beginning of the war with Great Britain in 1812, it was destroyed by the

Indians; but rebuilt in 1816. The town was organized in 1833, and the

first charter of a city passed by the Legislature, March 4, 1837. A number

of outlying suburbs of Chicago were annexed by popular vote so that the

present area of the city covers 181 square miles; its population being

about 1,400,000. When we consider the fact that in 1871 a great fire,

sweeping over the business center of Chicago, laid more than 2,000 acres

in ruins, and then reflect on the city of to-day, rebuilt in a style of

great solidity and magnificence, with its innumerable handsome buildings

of stupendous proportions--its six hundred beautiful churches--and its

vast number of educational institutions, we cannot but admire the spirit

of enterprise which evolved such wondrous prosperity in little more than

two decades.

The destructive fire constituted the largest conflagration of modern

times. Commencing by the overturning of a lamp in a district built up

almost exclusively of wood, about nine o'clock in the evening of October

8, 1871, it continued through that night and the greater part of the next

day. Finally, it was checked by the explosion of gunpowder, whereupon it

exhausted itself by burning all there was to ignite within the confined

space. Although 18,000 houses had been reduced to ashes, ten years

thereafter all traces of the calamity had disappeared.

It would be impossible to give a description of all the fine buildings

which have made Chicago famous. The principal hotel--probably the largest

in the world--is the "Auditorium," having its dining halls on the tenth

floor. All the conveniences that modern ingenuity has excogitated--in

accordance with the requirements of the present era--have been introduced

into this huge structure. It includes a theater having a seating capacity

for 6,000 spectators.

The park system of Chicago is one of the most extensive in the world.

Jackson and Washington Parks belong to the south division, whereas the

western section inside the city limits comprises three; known as Humboldt,

Garfield, and Douglas Parks. Their ornamentation is varied by superb

flower-beds, fountains, statues, and monuments. Lincoln Park--including a

zoological garden, and being romantically situated upon the lake shore in

the northern portion of the city--constitutes a delightful place of

amusement for pleasure-seekers. The parks are all connected by

boulevards--some of them 200 feet wide--encircling the city, and affording

a continuous drive of thirty-five miles.

The trade of Chicago is enormous. Its chief items are grain, live-stock,

meat products, and lumber. It principally manufactures iron and steel,

wood, brick, leather, chemicals, boots and shoes, cigars and tobacco.

The next day after our return to the Chicago Harbor in the evening, Mrs.

Dr. McDonald of Chicago accompanied by her brother, Mr. Bernard, paid us a

visit on board the "Marguerite." Miss Campbell made the acquaintance of

this amiable lady during her last trip to Europe; and they were

traveling-companions, spending many pleasant days journeying together

in the old world.

The WOMAN'S BUILDING was the first structure to be inspected after our

next arrival on the Exposition Grounds, according to the programme for

that day. It represented a great museum filled with countless

contributions made by women. The superb displays of paintings, ceramics,

art work, manufactures, liberal arts, embroideries, fancy work, laces;

moreover, dentistry, surgery, authorship, pedagogy, etc., and works of

female artisans--evinced that womankind is able to compete with man, not

only in the arts and sciences and in the more delicate achievements of

handiwork, but in almost every department of human activity. Even the

exterior of this handsome building, erected in the style of the Italian

renaissance after the design of Miss Sophia G. Hayden of Boston--with its

exquisite sculptural decorations--executed by Miss Alice Rideout of St.

Francisco--bore testimony to the fact, that women are entitled to enter

into competition with their male colleagues.

Here, we beheld exhibits forwarded to this unique structure by women of

every clime and section of the globe. Even ladies of European monarchal

families were represented--the Queen of England and her daughters by works

of art--the Empresses of Germany, Russia, and Austria as well as the Queen

of Italy by costly laces--often the work of their own hands--and

invaluable jewels--with romantic histories.

The decorative needle-work exhibit constituted a very selected and

complete collection; there being offered to view pieces of embroidery to

the value of $8,000.

All that was to be seen in this edifice proved the opinion that women are

justified in demanding a position equal to men.

Nevertheless, many refuse to acknowledge this claim of equalization by

pronouncing woman inferior to man concerning intellectual abilities. Daily

experience and the records of the past, however, demonstrate sufficiently

that many modern industrial pursuits have successfully been carried on by

female activity. Not only the occupations, which require manual dexterity

and good taste, also the higher branches of various sciences and arts have

been excellently mastered by educated ladies, performing professional

duties, whose execution demands a vast amount of intelligence and

learning. Thus the official U.S. census of 1890 contained the enumeration

of 2,438 doctresses; 110 female lawyers; 2,136 architectresses; and

155,000 lady teachers in public schools. Among the students, attending the

diverse colleges in the Republic, more than 18,000 are young ladies. Even

as inventors, women have distinguished themselves, as we may judge from

the fact that during the last three decades, about 2,500 patents have been

granted to female claimants, and scientific papers published--in 1884--a

list of contrivances deriving their existence from the inventiveness of

females.

Of the uncountable evidences of woman's inventive genius, the enumeration

of the following devices and improvements may suffice: a chain elevator;

an appliance for lessening the noise of elevated cars; a lubricating felt

for diminishing friction (very useful for railroad cars); a portable

water-reservoir for extinguishing small fires; an apparatus for weighing

wool (one of the most sensitive machines ever invented, and of

incalculable advantage for the wool industry); a rotary loom (performing

thrice the work of an ordinary one); furthermore, manifold improvements to

the sewing-machine, such as a device for threading the needle while the

machine is in full operation; an appliance for sewing leather--contrived

by a woman in New York who runs a saddlery business there--; and many

others. To the sensational inventions, originated in female brains,

belong--the sea-telescope devised by Mrs. Mather, an instrument for the

purpose of examining the keel of a ship without requiring her being put

into the dry-dock--and a complicated machine for manufacturing paper bags,

a very intricate affair which many eminent mechanicians have made but

unsuccessful efforts to contrive. Since then, Miss Maggie Knight, the

inventress of the machine above mentioned, has found out another; namely

for folding paper-bags. The latter performs the work of thirty men, and

has been put up under that lady's personal supervision in Amherst, Mass.

The wonderful achievements made by women in America, have not been

attained by females of any other country on the globe. This circumstance

is mainly due to the fact that the public school as well as the college

system in the United States--contrary to that of other nations--makes a

finished education accessible to both men and women.

According to a report given by President White of the University of

Michigan--an institution that admits students of both sexes--out of 1,300

attendants of the Greek class, the best scholar was a young lady. In

mathematics and other scientific studies, girls had the highest standing.

Furthermore, the profession of teaching in this country is principally in

the hands of women; which proves that the possibility of cultivating the

female mind to a high stage of perfection is absolutely unquestionable.

Moreover, philosophers of modern times have demonstrated that it is wrong

to assign to woman a position inferior to man by basing it on the

theory--that her brains have smaller dimensions. For, it is not the

quantity of the _viscus_ alone that settles this scientific question; but

the weight of the brains in direct proportion to that of the person's

body.

Recent scientific researches, accomplished by the noted Parisian

physiologist Broca, yielded the result that the ratio of woman's brains

compared with man's, contains even a surplus of one to four per cent.

Now, that science acknowledges that the female intellect is educable to

the same degree as that of man; would it not appear to be a perversion of

judgment to undervalue ingenuity, because it accidentally had its seat in

female brains? Would it not be unjust to leave talents undeveloped and

without cultivation, simply because a woman possesses them?

The active part woman took in the promotion of the Columbian Exposition is

additional proof of her ability; and on this occasion she comes to the

front rank more than ever before in her history.

Repairing to the northern portion of the park, we entered the "ART PALACE"

through the southern of its four main entrances. We found ourselves in a

gallery where the magnificent sculpture exhibit captivated our eyes.

In the court running east and west, we beheld a fine display of

architecture showing models of many famous edifices in the world, and

their exquisite portals and architectural ornaments.

The American section located in the northeastern part of the building,

comprised a collection _par excellence_ of elegant paintings, masterpieces

from the best artists of this country. Very interesting was the

retrospective art exhibit in this department; illustrating the various

stages in the development of American art, from its incipiency to the

present perfection.

The remaining space in the eastern pavilion was taken up by the French

_division_, which--we acknowledged unanimously--contained the most

laudable contribution made by a foreign nation.

Great Britain's select display, representing some of its great artists,

constituted the most extensive foreign section next to France.

German art was represented by 580 fine paintings, including all the German

schools that have gained celebrity; as the Bavarian in Munich--the Saxon

in Dresden--and many others.--Holland, Belgium, Russia, Spain, Austria,

Italy, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, and Canada had their share in the splendid

effect, likewise.

The Japanese showing, elucidating the style of art, peculiar to that

skillful nation, was very attractive and novel.

If we trace back the records of the previous international expositions, we

cannot find any report giving account of a similar collection representing

modern works of art. In consequence of political causes, France had seldom

made contributions to any but her own _expositions_. But the United

States, not fostering hostility with any nation, was universally assisted

in her gigantic enterprise. In fact, it would require volumes to describe

in detail this elaborate display, whose prominent part--the home

exhibits--verified Irving's words: "In America literature and the elegant

arts must grow up side by side with the coarser plants of daily

necessity."

The Art Palace environed groups and figures in marble and bronze, and

other sculptural master-pieces--paintings in oil and water colors, on

ivory, enamel, metal, and porcelain--fresco paintings on walls--

engravings--etchings--pastel and many studies in chalk and charcoal; in

short, every description of modern progress in this direction, even to

excellent effects produced on wood with hot irons.

Art is but the human effort to seize some of Nature's notable transitory

features to perpetuate them. The unusual scenes of grandeur and of beauty

our divine mother reveals to us in some of her moods, we adore, while they

are inspirations to the poet and painter; and in this untiring course of

art, many geniuses have become apotheosized.

To take a lovely landscape at sunset: when from the side of some

enchanting stream, you look toward the mountains in the west, and see the

crimson and light blue curtains of the evening slowly shaken out; their

fringes of burnished gold glowing with indescribable magnificence--who can

portray it and do it justice? This evening robing of those variegated

crests! That mingling of color, until it fades into deep violet dyes! They

in their turn passing away to give place to the jewels of the night, whose

unchanging song of eternal praise goes on----

Before such scenes, a Corot, or an Aubert dips the pencil in the glowing

sky, and transfers its hues to the canvas; so that, in after time, our

souls are gladdened by some retrospect, which makes life dearer to us

amidst its cares.

We must not consider art as the rival of nature, but her child that pays

to her the most graceful tribute of homage by making her impressions

permanent.

Highly interesting exhibits were presented to view in the _Anthropological

Building_, including instructive ethnological and archaeological

collections. In connection with the latter section were the relics shown

in the Convent de la Rabida--where Columbus, almost discouraged, found a

cordial reception and kind assistance from Father de la Marchena--; the

Yucatan Ruins--an illustration of ancient architecture and sculpture--;

the homes of the Cliff Dwellers--vestiges of probably the earliest

civilization of the American continent--; the Spanish Caravels--built in

Spain for the Exposition--; the Viking Ship--reproduced from a Norwegian

vessel a thousand years old--; and the Esquimaux Village--exhibiting

natives (their habitations, and sports), reindeers, and Esquimaux dogs.

The handsome structures erected by the Foreign Nations as well as those

built by the States and Territories of the Union, were designed

particularly for the entertainment of those visitors who constituted their

respective representatives. Nevertheless, many of them were beautifully

and expensively fitted up; inclosing magnificent native products. Their

unique features were so manifold that it would be an impossibility to

describe them deservingly without dedicating a volume to that purpose.

The nineteen foreign buildings, each of which illustrated some classic

style of architecture--peculiar to the nation represented--constituted an

additional great feature of the Columbian Exposition. They gave the

visitor an adequate conception of the construction and luxurious equipment

of edifices abroad. In fact, on entering the buildings of Germany, France,

Great Britain, Spain, New South Wales, Ceylon, Canada, Sweden, Costa Rica,

Hayti, Guatemala, Japan, etc., we fancied ourselves to be suddenly

conveyed to these foreign countries.

With a few exceptions, all the forty-four States and five Territories of

the Union, had their share in the beautiful effect produced by their

structures, erected--at a considerable expense--of such material as

elucidated the prominent natural resources of the respective states. Many

of the edifices were modeled after buildings noted for some historical

event. Thus, the New York Building was a reproduction, slightly modified,

of the old Van Rensselaer residence, whose quaint architecture recalled a

most interesting period in our national history, when the great metropolis

of to-day was but a small sea-port town.

This World's Fair, which has recently been brought to a close, evinced to

the millions of visitors, who were drawn by its multitudinous attractions

to the White City from every section of this country, and from almost

every quarter of the globe that it eclipsed in grandeur and excellence all

of the previous universal expositions; for everything that good taste and

modern genius could suggest and accomplish, was brought into play.

The financial account given by the auditor of the Columbian Fair stands

thus: The entire cost of the Exposition to its close and the winding up of

its affairs amounted to $26,288,685.67. Its total receipts were

$28,151,168.75; thus exceeding the expenditure by $1,862,483.08.

The wonderful and rapid development of the international expositions may

be recognized by the following statistics, compiled from the annals of

their short history:

Ordinal Year. Location. Area Duration Exhibitors Visitors

Number in Acres in Days

1 1851 London 20.06 144 17,000 6,039,000

2 1855 Paris 24.71 200 21,779 5,162,000

3 1862 London 22.24 171 28,653 6,211,000

4 1867 Paris 29.44 217 50,236 10,200,000

5 1873 Vienna 39.54 186 42,000 7,254,000

6 1876 Philadelphia 59.31 184 60,000 9,900,000

7 1878 Paris 59.31 194 32,000 13,000,000

8 1889 Paris 74.14 183 60,000 32,000,000

9 1893 Chicago..Exp 533.00 183 50,000 27,412,728

...MP 80.00

Unable to obtain the exact figures denoting the number of exhibitors of

the Columbian Exposition from any authentical source of information, I

introduced into the above table the number of 50,000, mentioned in a

newspaper, and therefore not absolutely reliable.

CONCLUSION.

The universal verdict is--that the World's Columbian Exposition at Chicago

was a great success; and although disappearing like a dream, it will be a

lasting and useful one. The mention of a few features, at once creditable

to the age, and pointing hopefully to the future, may suffice to prove

this opinion: Notwithstanding the great rivalry between nations, there has

not been a particle of jealousy, or unkind criticism exhibited at these

great congresses. Intelligent and representative people have been brought

together from all parts of the earth, who--on returning to their

homes--carried with them the germs of better feeling, which will have a

tendency to break up the barriers of bitter prejudices and bigotry

hitherto existing. The less favored and darker parts of our earth come

more into the light. Our children have had lessons, which no history or

geography could convey; our women have taken a stand from which they never

will recede. In the presence of the wonders shown us, and all the grand

efforts of human genius, we become less selfish and more humane; a greater

respect for each other is evoked. Yes, it has been a good thing!

All honor to the nations of the earth, who so generously have come forward

with their best treasures, not sparing trouble or expense in this

promoting, grand feature of human progress! The millions spent here, have

been well employed; and we can safely say that--but for the unfortunate

fact that during the time of the exposition, we were passing through a

season of unusual financial depression--the attendance at the World's Fair

would have been much larger. Nevertheless, it was a great success. All

honor to the Hon. George R. Davis, the General Director! All honor to his

co-laborers! All honor to every one who did anything to push it along!

For, it is gone--giving the pulse of the world the holiest thrill it ever

had since its creation.

FINIS.