Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Clare Boothby
and PG Distributed Proofreaders
[Transcriber's note: The non-standard spellings of the original text
have been retained in this etext.]
BY WATER
TO THE
COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION
BY
JOHANNA S. WISTHALER.
1894
"Travel is the great source of true wisdom."
--_Bearensfield_
To my amiable traveling companions,
Mr. S.R. James and family,
and
Miss Sarah E. Campbell,
this volume is affectionately inscribed
PREFACE
It has been the aim of the author: to combine a detailed narrative of her
trip by water to the White City with a faithful description of the ever
memorable Columbian Exposition as far as possible consistent with the
scope of this work. Every opportunity has been embraced by the writer to
incorporate the historical events, scientific facts, and natural phenomena
most appropriate to the subject.
The author also acknowledges her indebtedness to the Lake Shore & Michigan
Southern Railway Co. as well as her obligations to the Winters Art Litho
Co. in Chicago. She wishes to express her gratitude to the first-mentioned
corporation for having presented her with a map illustrative of the route;
thus enabling the reader to trace the numerous towns and cities--on the
Erie Canal and three Great Lakes--whose history and attractions have been
depicted in this book.
The Lake Shore Route--selected by the Government to run the famous Fast
Mail Trains--is the only double track line between Chicago, Cleveland,
Buffalo, New York, and Boston.--During the existence of the White City,
the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway Co. placed in service special
trains for the purpose of facilitating railway transportation between the
eastern cities and the "Queen of the West." The "Exposition Flyer," which
accomplished nearly 1,000 miles in twenty hours from Chicago to New York,
an average of about fifty miles per hour, was certainly one of the fastest
trains in the World.
To the aid of the Winters Art Litho Co. the author owes her capability of
furnishing this volume with a novel illustration of the World's Fair.--A
gold medal was awarded to this firm for the excellence in their water
color fac-simile reproductions and advancement in legitimate lithography.
The credit of improvements in materially reducing the number of printings,
and still maintaining excellence in results, was conceded to them by the
Judges.--This company kindly permitted the author to use their copyright
of the revised and most correct Bird's Eye View of the Exposition Grounds
extant, which gives the readers a very adequate conception of that
marvelous creation that--while existing only for such a brief period--has
accomplished its mission in the highest degree, and has opened a new era
in the annals of modern progress.
SCHENECTADY, N.Y., December, 1893.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I _Voyage on the Erie Canal_
Departure from Schenectady, N Y
Amsterdam, Canajoharie, Little Falls
Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Lyons
Palmyra, Rochester, Lockport
CHAPTER II _Sojourn in Buffalo and Visit to Niagara falls_.
Buffalo Harbor
City of Buffalo
Mill's Dry Dock
Niagara Falls, American Horseshoe and Central Falls
CHAPTER III _Voyage on Three Great Lakes_
_Lake Erie_
Dunkirk, Erie, Conneaut
Cleveland
Amherstburg
Detroit River
City of Detroit
Lake St Clair
River St Clair
Port Huron, Sarnia
_Lake Huron_
Sand Beach Beacon Saginaw Bay, Tawas City, Alpena
Rock-bound on Gull Island Ledge
False Presqu'ile, Cheboygan
Straits of Mackinaw, Mackinaw Island
_Lake Michigan_
Beaver Island, Northport
Frankfort, Manistee, Muskegon
South Haven, Life Saving Service
Michigan City, White City
CHAPTER IV _Stay in Chicago and Visit to the World's Fair_
_A Round Trip on the Exposition Grounds_
_Visit to the Midway Plaisance_
Diamond Match Co, Workingmen's Home
Congress of Beauty, California Nursery and Citrus Tree
Exhibit
Electric Scenic Theater, Libbey Glass Works
Irish Village and Donegal Castle, Japanese Bazaar
Javanese Village, German Village
Pompeii Panorama. Persian Theater
Model of the Eiffel Tower, Street in Cairo
Algerian and Tunisian Village, Kilauea Panorama
American Indian Village, Chinese Village
Wild East Show, Lapland Village
Dahomey Village, Austrian Village
Ferris Wheel, Ice Railway
Cathedral of St. Peter in miniature, Moorish Palace
Turkish Village, Panorama of the Bernese Alps
South Sea Islanders' Village. Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena
Irish Village and Blarney Castle, etc.
_Visit to the Exposition Structures_.
Manufactures Building and on Manufactures
U.S. Government Building and on the Development of the
Republic
Fisheries Building and on Fisheries
Agricultural Building and on Agriculture
Live Stock Exhibit, Dairy and Forestry Buildings
Palace of Mechanical Arts and on Machinery
Administration Building
Electricity Building and on Electricity, the "Golden or
Happy Age"
Mines and Mining Building and on Minerals
Transportation Building and on Railroad, Marine, and
Ordinary Road Vehicle Conveyances
Palace of Horticulture and on Horticulture
Liberal Arts Building. Educational Exhibits
_Chicago, its Growth and Importance_
Woman's Building and on Women
Art Palace and on Art
Anthropological Building
Foreign and State Buildings
Financial Account of the World's Fair
Statistical Table of International Expositions
CONCLUSION
INTRODUCTION
Experience, this greatest of all teachers, will undoubtedly have convinced
many of my readers that the most delightful voyage is only capable of
maintaining its charms when made amidst congenial fellow-travelers. The
grandest scenes can be fully enjoyed and duly appreciated when viewed
through an atmosphere of physical comfort. Thus, in order to demonstrate
the accuracy of the assertion:
Voyaging with Mr. James and his family was
attractive and enjoyable to me in every respect,
I must make the reader acquainted with my amiable traveling companions, as
well as with their floating home, the beautiful steam yacht "Marguerite."
Her owner, _Captain S. R. James_, is a stately, fine-looking, accomplished
gentleman, and quite a linguist. To me it was a source of unusual pleasure
to discuss French and German literature occasionally during our voyage
with one who has given so much attention to these languages.
Mr. James was styled by the Buffalo Courier "a typical New Yorker;" but he
impresses me more as a typified English gentleman of the thorough school,
and this impression is confirmed as I reflect upon his conduct to those
fortunate enough to be associated with him in any capacity.
I trust the reader will pardon me if I warmly eulogize MR. JAMES, his
lovely WIFE and their FOUR sweet CHILDREN, together with Miss SARAH E.
CAMPBELL, the very amiable sister of Mrs. James--who were my traveling
companions on this eventful trip; for, certainly, I was extremely
fortunate in my _compagnons de voyage_, whom I have thus introduced to the
reader. They abandoned their lovely home for the purpose of undertaking
the gigantic enterprise of making a canal and lake voyage to the White
City.
The reader may well judge that sailing on a yacht presents innumerable
novelties and advantages not attainable by any other conveyance. Since the
parties on board a pleasure-boat concentrate all their thoughts to the
expected enjoyments they cast aside all irksome forms and strait-laced
habitudes, delivering themselves up to the free air to live less
conventionally than at home. The preferableness of such an existence,
freed from all unnecessary ceremonies, is still more perceptible when the
trip is of long duration and having, moreover, for its terminus the
World's Columbian Exposition, a place where the wonders, beauties, and
evidences of nature's power and man's skill are gathered from all lands.
The great anticipations we had of our unique voyage were justified in
every respect. For it offered us the opportunity to store our memories
with that which will never die, and to adorn them with pictures whose
colors will never fade.
All this will be revealed subsequently to my courteous reader, who is
cordially invited to follow me now on board the steam yacht, which formed
our home for six eventful weeks.
What first strikes the observer on approaching the "Marguerite," are the
graceful lines which run from the sharp, slightly bent stem to the
well-rounded stern. So beautiful is her form, and so majestically does she
rest upon the water, that you will have no difficulty to recognize her,
even at a great distance. You observe that she is painted with taste, and
all the mouldings are gilded; you also perceive that the railings are of
oak wood, surmounted by finely polished brass, and the deck of narrow deal
planks is as white as snow. There is nothing wanting to make her equipment
harmonize with the requirements of the present era. She has a length of a
hundred feet, a width of about fifteen, with a draught of five feet eight
inches; being fitted out for both steam and sail navigation.
Now, dear reader, let us go below. If you consent, we will first visit the
engine-room, since it contains the most essential part of the working
machinery. A force of from eighty-five to ninety horse-power is developed
to propel the boat. The engine is of the triple expansion type; the
diameters of the cylinders being 6-1/2, 10 and 16 inches respectively.
Are you not pleased with this piece of machinery, so elegantly finished
and neatly polished? From it you can conclude that the yacht is capable of
running with considerable speed, amounting to thirteen miles an hour, if
desired.
Let us descend to the cabin next; can anything be more tasteful and
convenient? Is it not luxurious? And, although small, does not its very
limited space astonish you when you view so many comforts? This is the
dining-room. What can be more complete! Just look at this side-board, with
its sumptuous outfit in silver and crystal. _A multum in parvo._
The kitchen is admirably arranged; the spacious refrigerator making it
possible that a considerable amount of all sorts of provisions and
delicacies can be kept on board for some time.
Let us peep into the cozy staterooms. Are they not nicely furnished?
Glance at the large and comfortable berths, which can be extended so as to
form double berths, as in a Pullman car. All the rooms receive light,
either through side-windows or from the upper deck. Every facility for
enjoying open air exercise is offered by the main deck running the whole
length of the ship. The portion pertaining to the stern is especially
commodious, and constituted our dining-room on pleasant days. Even when
the weather was unfavorable, the awnings which inclosed this delightful
place formed an excellent shelter, giving the impression we were living in
a large tent.
Thus, you observe, that nothing is omitted to secure comfort. Do you see
this electric bell? Well, all the staterooms are provided with such bells,
which are connected with the steward's pantry.
Now, let us go forward. These two doors form the entrance to the
pilot-house; please, step in. Here is the steering wheel, and by means of
these brass tubes the steersman communicates with the engineer. Look up
to the ceiling. It is decorated with multitudinous charts and maps. Before
we leave this room do not forget to glance at the mariner's compass in its
elegant brass case.
Close by is the entrance to the fore-castle, which contains the men's
berths. The crew occupying them consists of the captain, the engineer, the
cook, the steward, and the seamen.
There not being accommodation for more female servants, Mrs. James was
attended by only one maid. She, however, could easily spare larger
retinue, because this excellent girl has assisted her mistress in
performing the manifold domestic duties for more than fourteen years, and
during this long period Mrs. James has learned to value her for her
dexterity in all female occupations. She is also a faithful guardian of
the children for whom she tenderly cares.
Flattering myself that I have given my kind readers a satisfactory,
introductory description, I shall now advance with the narrative, and
proceed on our journey, traversing the longest artificial waterway ever
constructed by human hands; and sailing on the unsteady billows of the
great lakes, which contain the largest amount of sweet water on the globe,
in order to visit the World's Fair, the grandest and most complete
exposition that human eyes ever beheld.
CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE ON THE ERIE CANAL FROM JULY 22ND, 10.40 A.M., TILL JULY 29TH, 1.30
P.M.
Finally, the 22nd of July, the day appointed for our departure, had
arrived. Great was my satisfaction to find the auspices predicting fine
weather; and, indeed, it was as beautiful as if Heaven smiled on our
enterprise. When taking leave of my neighbors, it was not at all with a
sad sentiment, for I had been well aware that I was going to undertake a
trip which but few mortals are so fortunate as to participate.
Accompanied by my dear parents I went to Dock street, where the
"Marguerite" lay all ready for leaving the flourishing city of
Schenectady.
My mother, whose domestic duties recalled her to the hearth at home, was
compelled to leave me, while my father remained on board the yacht,
anxious to enjoy my company as long as circumstances would permit.
Therefore, he gladly accepted Mr. James's kind invitation to accompany us
on our journey for a short distance.
Three intimate friends of Mr. James and his family were also invited
guests on the boat. These temporary traveling companions were Dr. A.
Veeder, Lawyer Charles Hastings and Congressman S.J. Schermerhorn, three
well known and highly estimated gentlemen from Schenectady.
At 11.40 A.M., Mr. James gave orders to haul in the lines attaching the
boat to the shore; and a gun-shot at departing announced to the numerous
spectators that the "Marguerite" was on the point to set out for her
unusual, but most interesting trip.
We had been sailing only a very short distance, and were just facing the
buildings of the General Electric Company, when our attention was
attracted by a photographer who seemed to be very desirous of taking a
photo of the yacht and her passengers; for he aspired to gain the most
favorable posture, apparently quite a task under the circumstances. How
well he succeeded in his endeavors, the readers can judge for themselves
by glancing at the frontispiece of this book.
Resuming our journey, we soon had opportunity to admire the beautiful and
fertile Mohawk Valley, once the home of one of the tribes composing the
Five Nations. Arendt Van Curler, the noble founder of the "Place Beyond
the Pines," pronounced this picturesque region the most beautiful the eye
of man had ever beheld, at a time when the country was yet in its infancy.
Though great changes have taken place since that remote date (1642), the
grandeur of the scenes spread before us evidently showed that the country
has lost little of its beauty, even at the present day, nothwithstanding
the white man has established in many places his smoking factories and
noisy looms.
At the second lock Mr. Schermerhorn, who owns a beautiful residence near
this place, in the Township of Rotterdam, joined our party, whereupon we
continued sailing on the smooth surface of the canal with accelerated
speed.
At 2.40 P.M., after having passed five locks, we approached _Amsterdam_,
an enterprising and prosperous city of over 20,000 inhabitants, located in
the midst of romantic scenery. We halted at Port Jackson for a few
minutes, since this was the terminus of the voyage of Mr. Hastings and my
father.
When parting with me, my father said:
"This short tour has sufficed me to perceive how delightful your voyage
promises to be in company with this amiable family. Thus I leave you,
feeling very happy that so many pleasures and enjoyments are awaiting
you."
I answered his kind words with a hearty parting kiss, as a token of my
filial love.
The two gentlemen, after having abandoned the yacht, ascended the bridge
that spans the canal at that point; and bidding us farewell once more,
they pursued us with their eyes until the graceful lines of the
"Marguerite" had become invisible in the distance.
Continuing our voyage, I was in perfect rapture with the ever varying
magnificence of the luxuriant Mohawk Valley. In the afternoon the sky
became overcast and the quietude that had been prevailing was interrupted
by a thunder-clap, which gave us the signal to prepare for a shower. After
the expiration of a few minutes the full-charged clouds poured their
deluge upon mother earth. This natural phenomenon, however, was only of
short duration; but sufficient to render the atmosphere most delightfully
pure and refreshing. It was now a redoubled pleasure to view the many
hills and dales, adorned in every shade of verdure, varying with romantic
forest scenes; all mingling into one inexpressibly rich garniture in which
Nature had royally clad herself in order to give us greeting on our way.
As we reached Fultonville, a suburban village of Fonda, about twenty-six
miles from Schenectady, Dr. Veeder and Congressman Schermerhorn parted
with us, wishing us a pleasurable voyage.
The "Marguerite," gliding along, neared the vicinity of Sprakers when
suddenly the "heaven grew black again with the storm-cloud's frown," and a
flash of lightning illuminated the sky with crimson radiance. It is for a
moment as if the horizon was in flames, a spectacle glorious to behold.
Another minute and a peal of thunder reaches our ears. Then the dark,
heavy clouds discharge their contents in copious abundance.
"In grateful silence earth receives
The general blessing: fresh and fair
Each flower expands its little leaves
As glad the common joy to share."
While it is still raining,
"The sun breaks forth, from off the scene
Its floating veil of mist is flung.
And all the wilderness of green
With trembling drops of light is hung."
A magnificent rainbow, spanning the boundless arch on high, embellishes
this superb panorama.
As the sunset was bathing all summits in soft, crimson light, and the pale
lustre of the orbed moon appeared in the east, we arrived at
_Canajoharie_.
This small town, noted for its fine stone quarries, was chosen for our
abode over Sunday, and busy hands carried out the order to safely moor our
craft near the bridge pertaining to the main street.
When taking a long walk about the town, I found that, although inferior in
size, it is a very desirable place for summer residences; being
beautifully situated on romantic slopes crowned with elegant and tasty
villas.
Canajoharie is regularly and appropriately laid out with wide, well kept
and adequately lighted thoroughfares, and many citizens reside in spacious
and architecturally ornamented houses. It is a recognized center of trade,
from which agricultural products of all kinds are shipped.
In the first historic record, dated 1757, the place was styled "Fort
Cannatchocary," and mentioned as a prospering settlement. Incorporated as
a town in 1788, its population has been rapidly increasing since then,
and now is estimated to amount to more than 3,000.
It was a glorious morning, the 24th of July, as we left Canajoharie. The
sun rose up into a cloudless heaven and poured a flood of gorgeous
splendor over the landscape, as if proud of the realm he shone upon.
When I entered the pilot-house I found Mr. James, in the absence of the
captain, busy steering the yacht, and in the course of our long voyage I
often had opportunity to admire his abilities as a navigator. On many
occasions I observed that he was very cautious in all his proceedings;
that he took nothing for granted, and was only convinced of a fact when
properly certified by ocular demonstration.
Engaged in a French conversation with the dexterous commodore, the time,
as well as the vessel, was rapidly gliding along; the latter being
assisted by a little breeze that rippled the surface of the water. So,
after a three miles' ride, we approached _Fort Plain_, which boasts of
numerous factories, and also the largest spring and axle works of the
world. The Clinton Liberal Institute, one of the leading military schools
of the State, occupies a commanding position, overlooking the valley. The
site of old Fort Plain, of revolutionary memory, is within the village
limits.
Having passed Cox and Mindenville, a route of nine miles brought us into
the proximity of the busy town of _Little Falls_, which has a population
of about 10,000. It is romantically situated, and many elegant dwellings
stand upon steep acclivities, commanding views of grand and attractive
sceneries. The chief products of the numerous manufactories are knit
goods. Little Falls is also one of the principal cheese markets of the
Empire State. The Mohawk river supplies the place with abundant
water-power, having at this point a fall of forty-five feet in half a
mile.
Still proceeding on our voyage, the town was soon out of sight. The sun
shone with the clearest splendor from the zenith, beautifully illumining
the smiling valleys, wooded hills, sparkling brooks and dimpled lakes,
which makes this landscape scene so attractive. We were unable to leave
our seats on the stern-deck; for everything around us seemed to have
assumed the character of enchantment, and--had I been educated in the
Grecian mythology--I should scarcely have been surprised to find an
assemblage of Dryads, Naiads and Oreads sporting on the plain beside us.
After having viewed Mohawk, eight miles from Little Falls; Herkimer, a
town of about 5,000 inhabitants; Ilion, with a population of nearly the
same number, and Frankfort, four miles from Utica, we reached the latter
city as
"The sunset gorgeous dyes,
Paled slowly from the skies,"
having achieved forty-two miles that day.
_Utica_ contains approximately 47,000 residents. At the time of the
revolution it was a frontier trading-post and the site of Fort Schuyler,
built to guard the settlements against the French and Indians.
We made arrangements to remain in this city over night.
A long walk through Utica made us acquainted with a regular and handsomely
built city, which rises from the south bank of the Mohawk River to an
elevation of 150 feet. Among the stately buildings are six large hotels,
the handsome city hall, the postoffice and the bank edifice. There is also
a State Lunatic Asylum. Utica, being in the center of a great dairy
region, has become the most important cheese market in the United States.
Genesee Street is the principal thoroughfare lined with large blocks of
commercial houses.
The city has not yet attained its centennial; but during its history of
less than a century it has experienced a wonderful growth, especially
during the last fifty years.
At 7 o'clock the next morning we resumed our voyage, sailing on the
so-called sixty mile level; having thus the delightful prospect not to
be detained by going through numerous locks.
We were also _in limine_ of the far-famed lake region, and soon traversed
one of the finest portions of New York State.
Passing the hamlets of York Mills, Whitesboro and Oriskany, the
"Marguerite" advanced near to the city of _Rome_ towards 10 o'clock A.M.
In its vicinity the famous battle of Oriskany was fought; and Fort
Stanwix, which was besieged by the British in 1777, occupies a site now in
the center of the city of Rome. The latter is laid out with wide streets
well shaded with maples and elms. In the resident portion, a very high
artistic taste has been displayed in the erection of dwelling houses.
Although this thriving city of almost 16,000 inhabitants has not so many
points of interest as its namesake, the ancient metropolis of the glorious
Roman empire, whose wealth of antiquities is perfectly marvelous and whose
relics of classical and papal times are alike almost innumerable; still it
possesses one interesting feature that ought not to be left unmentioned:
It was here that cheese was first made in factories.
Other important manufactures are merchantable iron, brass and copper,
locomotives and agricultural implements.
Greatly favored by the clemency of the weather, we sped through this
beautiful region, which is a never ending source of interest to the
tourist, sailing past New London, Grove Springs, Higginsville, Dunbarton,
State Bridge, Durhamville, Lenox Basin, Canastota, New Boston,
Chittenango, Bolivar, Pool's Brook, Kirkville, Manlius and Lodi. At the
latter place the bed of the canal suddenly widens considerably, being
about twice its average width. Entering that portion of the grand
artificial waterway, we found its waters so shallow that we could plainly
discern its rocky bed.
We entered the city of _Syracuse_ when the last streak of daylight had
faded from the west and the blush on the waters was followed by the
reflection of the far blue arch and its starry host.
Opposite the city hall, a magnificent structure, the "Marguerite" was made
fast to repose after a fifty-five miles' course that day.
Syracuse, situated in the heart of New York State, has been appropriately
named the "Central City." Its wonderful growth for the past twenty years
entitles it to rank amongst the foremost cities of the East. It has a
population of nearly 100,000, and is one of the leading manufacturing
towns of the country. For a long period Syracuse practically controlled
the salt product of the United States; in fact, it was that which first
gave the place its importance. The existence of the vast salt springs of
Onondaga was known to the Indians at an early date, and the secret was by
them imparted to the Jesuits in 1654. The State took possession of the
springs in 1794; and laws were passed for the conduct of the manufacture.
Although numerous companies are now engaged in this industry, it
constitutes a comparatively small factor in the commercial interests of
the city, inasmuch as it possesses at the present time over five hundred
industrial establishments; giving employment to not less than twenty
thousand people.
The city is handsomely laid out, containing many fine public buildings and
private residences.
When I came on deck the following morning the rain fell in heavy showers.
A cloud appeared to open directly over our heads, and let down the water
almost in one body, but at 7.15, as the violence of the rainfall had
somewhat abated, we departed from Syracuse, sailing past Geddes, Bell'isle
and Canton, where we struck another shallow place in the canal. As we
approached Peru the mists were rolling away, which gradually, as they
became thinner, received and transmitted the rays of the sun; illuminating
them with a golden radiance, increasing every minute in splendor, until
they vanished.
Therefore, it was a redoubled pleasure to glance at the green plains
studded with yet greener woodlands; the little mountains raising their
crests, and the lovely lakes gleaming like floods of molten silver.
Thus we journeyed along past Weedsport, Centerport, Port Byron, Montezuma,
Pitt Lock, Clyde and Lock Berlin.
Nearly midway between Syracuse and Rochester, forty-nine miles from the
former city, we halted, choosing _Lyons_ for our night's lodging. The
town, having a population of almost 6,000, is the seat of Wayne County,
which produces more dried fruit than any other county in the State. The
oil of peppermint forms an important product of manufacture, there being a
score of peppermint distilleries yielding annually more than 100,000
pounds of this costly oil.
Thursday, the 27th of July, as the tints of a bright morning reddened the
eastern sky, we pursued our journey, greatly delighted with the cool and
refreshing atmosphere. Speeding along we passed Arcadia; Newark, a
thriving town, numbering about 4,000 inhabitants; and Palmyra, seven miles
beyond, with broad and well shaded streets.
Two miles south of _Palmyra_ Joe Smith, the founder of Mormonism, claimed
to have dug from a hill, which now bears the name of Mormon Hill, the
golden plates constituting the first Mormon Bible.
Sailing by the villages of Lower and Upper Macedon, Pittsford was reached;
a beautiful town of more than 3,000 inhabitants and one of the oldest
settlements in that part of the State. Here is located the famous
"Pittsford Farm," which is one of the finest stock farms in the East. It
is at this place that Shetland ponies, Jersey cattle and Angora cats are
raised in great numbers. Uncountable varieties of water-fowl can always be
seen at this point.
Having passed Brighton, we arrived at _Rochester_ long ere the first gold
dye of sunset was stealing into the vast blue arch on high, having
traveled forty-two miles that day.
Near the center of the city destined for our nightly abode, a multitude of
curious spectators had assembled in order to view the handsome yacht. I
made the observation that during our entire voyage the "Marguerite,"
wherever she made her appearance, was universally admired.
The important city of Rochester is situated on the Genesee River, seven
miles south of its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is one of the leading
manufacturing cities of the country, having more than 150,000 inhabitants.
In 1802 it was founded by Colonel Nathaniel Rochester, a representative
pioneer of the Genesee River Valley. In 1834 it received its charter as a
city, and has since increased in population and importance with marvelous
rapidity. The fertility of the surrounding country and the splendid
water-power furnished by the Genesee River, together with unexcelled
transportation facilities, have contributed largely to its growth.
Both in the latter part of the afternoon and evening, we deserted the
yacht for the purpose of admiring the various beauties and points of
interest, which give this town such a far spread reputation.
We received the conviction that Rochester, in fact, deserves its fame.
Covering an area of about seventeen square miles, it is laid out chiefly
in squares, with streets from sixty to one hundred feet wide, shaded by
beautiful trees. It abounds in handsome and tasteful residences, which are
for the most part surrounded by carefully tended lawns and gardens. Its
fire-proof office buildings and warehouses, are a credit to the city; only
few, even in the metropolis, are equal to them in magnificence.
In the center of the city are the upper Falls of the Genesee, a
perpendicular cataract of ninety-six feet, over which Sam Patch made his
last and fatal leap.
To the prominent public institutions of Rochester belong the State
Industrial School, two large hospitals, an Institution for Deaf-Mutes, and
charitable organizations of every description. The principal business
thoroughfare, Main Street, is in the heart of the city, and crosses the
river over a handsome iron bridge.
The manufactures of Rochester are extensive and varied. In early years
flour was the chief product, giving it the title "Flour City;" there being
no less than eighteen mills within its limits. Rochester might be also
appropriately styled the "Flower City," for its nursery trade is hardly
surpassed by that of any other place in the world. The suburbs are highly
cultivated, having 4,000 acres of fruit trees, and nurseries containing
from 250 to 500 acres.
Other important industries are cotton and paper mills; oil refineries;
boot and shoe, clothing, furniture, perfumery and tobacco manufactories.
A feature that attracts thousands of visitors daily, is the great Powers
Art Gallery, the private property of Mr. D.W. Powers, occupying the
greater part of the two upper floors pertaining to the Powers Building.
In fact, a plentitude of resources makes the city interesting to the
tourist.
The next day, when "morn was blushing in the sky," we bade farewell to
Rochester; and, sailing on the other sixty-mile level, we continued our
journey through a charming region past Greece, Spencerport, King & Adams,
Cooley's Basin, and arrived at the attractive village of Brockport.
Beautifully situated in the midst of a country teeming with abundance and
inhabited by a prosperous and contented population, it contains many
features of interest. Here is located a State Normal School, and also
several extensive manufactories of agricultural implements.
Passing Holley, Hulberton and Hindsburg, we came to Albion, the capital of
Orleans County. The latter village is nicely laid out with wide streets
and shaded by large trees. It contains many handsome residences and public
buildings.
Having proceeded more westward, beyond Eagle Harbor and Knowlesville, we
caught sight of the pleasant town of Medina, about midway between
Rochester and Buffalo, noted for its quarries of dark-red sandstone.
Located in the midst of a fine fruit country, it has the reputation of
being one of the best fruit markets in the State. Speeding through the
thriving villages of Middleport, Reynall's Basin and Cataract Springs, we
neared a deep ravine, through which the Erie Canal passes, following a
natural waterway. Here we met the most remarkable drop of the canal, in
its chain of five continuous double locks, resembling a flight of stairs.
Entering these, the "Marguerite" gradually rose higher and higher; and
when quitting the last of them, she had been lifted up to an elevation of
sixty feet by these five locks, and if we had not observed the busy hands
working for our ascent, we might have been inclined to imagine that an
invisible cloud was slowly carrying us to unknown regions on high.
We made _Lockport_ our resting-place for the night; since the sun had
wheeled his broad disk already down into the west and the heavens were
brightened only by the parting smiles of the day.
Going on shore, we visited Lockport, a prosperous city with about 20,000
inhabitants, which is the center of a large paper and pulp industry.
A five hours' journey on Saturday morning, July 29th, past Pendleton,
Picardsville, Martinsville, Tonawanda and Lower Black Rock, completed our
charming trip on the Erie Canal, which has from Schenectady to Buffalo a
length of 323 miles.
The construction of this great artificial waterway, in all nearly 350
miles long, having an elevation of about 500 feet above tide water, made
by seventy-two locks, was commenced in 1817, and its completion took place
in 1825. Although this immense undertaking has caused an expense of
$50,000,000, the State of New York has made an excellent investment with
that sum of money; since by means of the Erie Canal the domestic trade
between the large western inland towns and the eastern seaports,
especially the metropolis, is considerably facilitated. This traffic will
receive a still greater importance, and can be more advantageously carried
on, when the plan of utilizing the electric current for the driving power
of canal-boats--a project recently tested by experiments--has been
successfully executed.
Prior to 1857, this waterway was used for both trade and passenger
transportation. Since the introduction of railroad communication, however,
the canal has been the medium of conveying merchandise only; wherefore,
our interesting trip on the steam-yacht "Marguerite" is one of a few
exceptions to the ordinary routine of the Erie Canal.