8. Ornaments. The marriage ornaments

It can scarcely also be doubted in view of this feeling that the

wearing of both gold and silver in ornaments is considered to have

a protective magical effect, like that attributed to charms and

amulets. And the suggestion has been made that this was the object

with which all ornaments were originally worn. Professor Robertson

Smith remarks: [648] "Jewels, too, such as women wore in the sanctuary,

had a sacred character; the Syriac word for an earring is _c' dasha_,

'the holy thing,' and generally speaking, jewels serve as amulets. As

such they are mainly worn to protect the chief organs of action (the

hands and feet), but especially the orifices of the body, as earrings;

nose-rings hanging over the mouth; jewels on the forehead hanging down

and protecting the eyes." The precious metals, as has been seen, are

usually sacred among primitive people, and when made into ornaments

they have the same sanctity and protective virtue as jewels. The

subject has been treated [649] with great fullness of detail by

Sir J. Campbell, and the different ornaments worn by Hindu women of

the Central Provinces point to the same conclusion. The _bindia_ or

head ornament of a Maratha Brahman woman consists of two chains of

silver or gold and in the centre an image of a cobra erect. This is

Shesh-Nag, the sacred snake, who spreads his hood over all the _lingas_

of Mahadeo and is placed on the woman's head to guard her in the same

way. The Kurmis and other castes do not have Shesh-Nag, but instead

the centre of the _bindia_ consists of an ornament known as _bija_,

which represents the custard-apple, the sacred fruit of Sita. The

_nathni_ or nose-ring, which was formerly confined to high-caste

women, represents the sun and moon. The large hoop circle is the

sun, and underneath in the part below the nose is a small segment,

which is the crescent moon and is hidden when the ornament is in

wear. On the front side of this are red stones, representing the

sun, and on the underside white ones for the moon. The _nathni_

has some mysterious connection with a woman's virtue, and to take

off her nose-ring--_nathni utdarna_--signifies to dishonour a woman

(Platts). In northern India women wear the nose-ring very large and

sometimes cover it with a piece of cloth to guard it from view or keep

it in _parda_. It is possible that the practice of Hindu husbands of

cutting off the nose of a wife detected in adultery has some similar

association, and is partly intended to prevent her from again wearing a

nose-ring. The toe ornament of a high-caste woman is called _bichhia_

and it represents a scorpion (_bichhu_). A ring on the big toe stands

for the scorpion's head, a silver chain across the foot ending in

another ring on the little toe is his body, and three rings with

high projecting knobs on the middle toes are the joints of his tail

folded back. It is of course supposed that the ornament protects the

feet from scorpion bites. These three ornaments, the _bindia_, the

_nathni_ and the _bichhia_, must form part of the Sohag or wedding

dowry of every high-caste Hindu girl in the northern Districts,

and she cannot be married without them. But if the family is poor

a _laong_ or gold stud to be worn in the nose may be substituted

for the nose-ring. This stud, as its name indicates, is in the form

of a clove, which is sacred food and is eaten on fast-days. Burning

cloves are often used to brand children for cold; a fresh one being

employed for each mark. A widow may not wear any of these ornaments;

she is always impure, being perpetually haunted by the ghost of her

dead husband, and they could thus be of no advantage to her; while,

on the other hand, her wearing them would probably be considered a

kind of sacrilege or pollution of the holy ornaments.

The Tribes and Castes of the Central Provinces of India, Volume 4 · 第 525 / 607 题