CHAPTER XI

HOTELS, HEADQUARTERS, AND HAND-SHAKING (1880)

THE seventh session of the Assembly opened in 1880 with another addition

to the Chautauqua territory. Fifty acres along the Lake shore had been

acquired, and the Assembly-ground was now three times as large as that

of the old Fair Point Camp Meeting.

This season saw also the foundation laid for a large hotel. It is worthy

of record that the Hotel Athenaeum was built not by the Assembly Board,

but by a stock company of people friendly to the movement and willing to

risk considerable capital in its establishment. More than one promising

Assembly had already been wrecked and many more were destined to

bankruptcy by building large hotels before they were assured of guests

to fill them. It must be kept in mind that everywhere the Chautauqua

constituency was not, and is not now, the wealthy class who frequent

summer hotels and are willing to pay high prices for their

entertainment. A Chautauqua Assembly, whether in the east or the west,

is mainly composed of people possessing only moderate means, but eager

for intellectual culture. Whenever a Chautauqua has been established in

connection with the conventional summer hotel, either it has become

bankrupt from lack of patronage, or the hotel has swallowed up the

Assembly. The Hotel Athenaeum at Chautauqua was not the property of the

Assembly, and might have failed--as many, perhaps most, of the summer

hotels at watering-places have failed once or more than once in their

history--without endangering the Assembly itself. The men who built the

Athenaeum, led by Lewis Miller and his business partners, risked their

money, and might have lost it, for there were seasons when it paid no

dividends to the stockholders, and other seasons when the profits were

small. Yet this hotel drew by degrees an increasing number of visitors

who were able and willing to enjoy its advantages over those of the

earlier cottage boarding houses, and it led to better accommodations and

a more liberal table in the cottages, until now the Hotel Athenaeum is

only one of a number of really good houses of entertainment at

Chautauqua. It is given prominence in our story because it was first in

its field. By the way, the name "Hotel Athenaeum" was given by Dr.

Vincent, who liked to impart a classical tone to buildings in an

educational institution.

The building was begun in 1880 and opened in the following year, though

even then not fully completed. It occupied the site of a three-story

edifice bearing the high-sounding name "Palace Hotel," a structure of

tent-cloth over a wooden frame, divided by muslin partitions, and three

stories in height. When rooms for the ever-increasing multitudes at

Chautauqua were few, the Palace Hotel was a blessing to many visitors.

Some distinguished men slept in those tented rooms, and inasmuch as a

sheet partition is not entirely sound-proof, their snores at night could

be heard almost as far as their speeches by day. Some there were in the

early eighties who shook their heads as the walls of the new hotel rose,

and dreaded the tide of worldliness which would follow; but the Hotel

Athenaeum has become a genuine helper to the Chautauqua spirit, for its

great parlor has opened its doors to many receptions, and the witty

after-dinner speeches at banquets in its dining-hall would fill more

than one volume.

Another building which deserves mention is the Congregational House,

opened in 1880; the first church headquarters established at

Chautauqua. We have seen how the denominations were recognized from the

earliest years, and meeting places provided for their prayer meetings

and conferences. The need was felt by a number of the larger churches of

a place where their members could find a welcome on arrival, could form

an acquaintance with fellow-members, could meet each other in social

gatherings and prayer meetings, and could promote the fraternal spirit.

The example of the Congregationalists was soon followed. The

Presbyterian headquarters, aided by a liberal donation of Mr. Elliott F.

Shepard of New York, was the earliest brick building on the ground,

solid and substantial, befitting the church which it represented. After

a few years its size was doubled to make a Mission House, where

missionaries of that church, home and foreign, could enjoy a vacation at

Chautauqua. The Methodist House is one of the largest, for its chapel is

the home of the Community Church at Chautauqua through the entire year,

the church home of the resident population of every denomination. The

Disciples of Christ, or Christian Church, purchased a large

boarding-house, built before it a pillared porch, giving it a noble

frontage and furnishing rooms for guests in the upper stories. The

United Presbyterians built a chapel, serving also as a social room. The

Protestant Episcopalians also erected a chapel consecrated to worship,

but later established also a Church Home. The Unitarians purchased and

improved a property fronting on St. Paul's Grove. The Baptists built a

large headquarters on Clark Avenue, the street extending from the

Amphitheater to the Hall of Philosophy, and the Lutherans obtained a

large building near it. In all these Denominational Houses there is an

absence of clannish feeling. No church uses its headquarters as a

propaganda of its peculiar views; and in the receptions fellow

Christians of every branch are always welcome. When some eminent man

comes to Chautauqua, his church holds a reception in his honor, and

everybody who would like to take his hand flocks to the meeting at his

church headquarters. Speaking of receptions, I must tell of one wherein

I was supposed to take a leading part, but found myself left in the

rear. Dr. Vincent announced that at four o'clock, in the Hall of

Philosophy, a reception would be given to Dr. Edward Everett Hale. He

said to me:

Now, Dr. Hurlbut, I place this reception in your

hands to manage. Dr. Hale comes from Boston and is

accustomed to the formalities of the best society.

Be sure to have this reception held in the proper

manner. Let the Doctor stand in front of the

platform, have ushers ready to introduce the

people, and let there be no indiscriminate

handshaking.

I promised to see that everything should be done decently and in order,

and a few minutes before the hour appointed, walked over to the Hall. I

was amazed to see a crowd of people, all pressing toward the center,

where the tall form of Dr. Hale loomed above the throng, shaking hands

apparently in every direction. I rushed upon the scene and vainly

endeavored to bring about some semblance of order. The reception was a

tumultuous, almost a rough-and-tumble, affair, everybody reaching out

for the guest in his own way. It came about in this manner, as I

learned.

Everybody at Chautauqua knows that the bell invariably rings five

minutes before the hour, giving notice that the exercises may begin

promptly on the stroke of the clock. But Dr. Hale did not know this, and

when the five-minute bell rang, he rose and said:

"The time for the meeting has come, but nobody seems to be in charge.

Let us begin the reception ourselves without waiting."

He stood up, and began shaking hands right and left, without waiting for

introduction, and when the four o'clock bell sounded, the reception was

in full sweep, everybody crowding around at once and grasping his hand.

Before the first throng had satisfied its desires, another stream poured

in and the general tumult continued until the five o'clock hour

compelled an adjournment, the Hall being required for another meeting.

At the close, Dr. Hale remarked to me, "I especially like the

informality of such gatherings here at Chautauqua. This has been one of

the most satisfactory receptions that I have ever attended!"

Chautauqua was already coming to the front as a convention-city. Its

central location between New York and Chicago, with ready transportation

north and south, its Amphitheater for great meetings, with numerous

halls and tents for smaller gatherings and committees, the constant

improvement in its lodging and commissary departments, its attractive

program of lectures and entertainments, and not the least, its romantic

out-of-door life, began to draw to the ground different organizations.

The Woman's Christian Temperance Union, led by Frances E. Willard,

returned to its birthplace for its sixth annual convention, and the

National Educational Association brought members from every State,

presided over by Dr. J. Ormond Wilson. This Association embraced

educators of widely diverging views, and some entertaining scraps

occurred in its discussions. For example, the kindergarten instruction

at Chautauqua was under the direction of Madame Kraus-Boelte, and her

husband, a learned but rather obstinate German, Professor Kraus. There

was an Americanized kindergarten, whose representative came, hired a

cottage, and hung out her sign, but much to her displeasure was not

allowed to conduct classes. It would never answer to let anybody hold

classes unauthorized by the management, for who could tell what

educational heresies might enter through the gate? But this aggressive

lady paid her fee, joined the N. E. A., and in the kindergarten section

proceeded to exploit her "improvements" upon the Froebel system. This

aroused the ire of Professor Kraus, and in vigorous language he

interrupted her address, declaring, at first in English, then half in

German as his anger rose:

"Dat iss not kindergarten! Dere is but one kindergarten! You can call

dat whatever you please, but not kindergarten! You can call it

joss-house, if you choose, but you must not say dat mix-up is a

kindergarten!"

The audience enjoyed the discussion all the more because of this

scramble between opposing schools.

[Illustration: Methodist Headquarters]

[Illustration: Disciples (Christian Church) Headquarters]

There was another, and more dignified, controversy on the Chautauqua

platform in 1880. On its program was the honored name of Washington

Gladden, of Columbus, Ohio, to speak upon the Standard Oil Company and

its misdeeds. A friend of Dr. Vincent, who was an officer of the

Standard Oil, said that it would only be fair to hear the other side,

and proposed Mr. George Gunton of New York as a speaker. So it came to

pass that two able men spoke on opposite sides of the mooted question.

Each gave an address and afterward had an opportunity of answering the

other's arguments. So far as I know, this was the first debate on public

questions at Chautauqua, and it was succeeded by many others. An effort

is made to have the burning questions of the time discussed by

representative speakers. Some exceedingly radical utterances on capital

and labor have been made on the Chautauqua platform, but it must not be

inferred, because the audience listened to them respectfully, or even

applauded a particularly sharp sentence, that Chautauqua was in accord

with the speaker's sentiments.

On the list of speakers at this season may be read the following, a few

among many names: Prof. J. H. Gilmore of Rochester University gave a

series of brilliant lectures upon English literature. Ram Chandra

Bose of India gave several lectures, philosophic and popular. Dr.

Sheldon Jackson of Alaska thrilled a great audience with an appeal for

that outlying but unknown land of ours. Schuyler Colfax, Vice-President

of Grant's first administration, gave a great lecture on "Abraham

Lincoln." Professor Borden P. Bowne of Boston University made the deep

things of philosophy plain even to unphilosophic listeners. Other

orators in the new Amphitheater were Dr. Robert R. Meredith of Boston,

Dr. J. O. Means of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign

Missions, and Dr. W. W. Keen of Philadelphia. The Fisk Jubilee Singers

made their first visit this year; and with the Northwestern Band and the

Assembly Chorus, already counted by the hundreds, under Professors

Sherwin and Case, made music one of the most popular features of the

program.

This year was also notable for the first appearance of the _Chautauquan

Magazine_, containing a part of the required readings of the C. L. S. C.

It was launched and made successful by the financial, business, and

editorial ability of Dr. Flood, who ventured his capital boldly and won

deserved success. The ever-welcome "Pansy," Mrs. G. R. Alden, this

season read a new story, published soon afterward. With Mrs. Alden in

those early years was a serious small boy, ever at his mother's side,

rarely entering into the sports of childhood. If we could have looked

forward a quarter-century, we might have seen in him the coming

Professor Raymond M. Alden of the Leland Stanford faculty, one of the

most eminent scholars and critics in the Department of English

Literature, and an authority quoted in all lands where the English

language is spoken or read.

A visitor came to Chautauqua at the session of 1880, whose presence

brought the place and the Assembly into notice throughout the nation.

General James A. Garfield was at that time the candidate of his party

for President of the United States. He came to Chautauqua on Saturday,

August 7th, for a week-end rest in a strenuous campaign, expressing a

wish not to be called upon for any public address or reception. He

worshiped with the great congregation on Sunday morning, his entrance

with a group of his friends being received in respectful silence. In the

afternoon he mentioned to Dr. Vincent that he had heard of Palestine

Park and would like to visit it. As the lectures in the Park were

generally given by me, I was detailed to walk through the model and

point out its localities. As we went out of Dr. Vincent's tent a small

company was standing around, waiting for a sight of the candidate. They

followed us, and as we walked on toward the Park, people came flocking

forth from every house and tent. By the time we reached the Land of

Palestine, it was well-nigh covered with the crowds, extending from Dan

to Beersheba. No former Palestine lecture of mine had ever drawn

together such a multitude! It became impossible to find the cities

covered by the multitudes. But I was somewhat surprised to perceive that

the General knew where at least the important localities belonged even

though they were not visible. He pointed out half a dozen of the cities

named in the Bible, and gave their names without hesitation or

suggestion. We desired to make a sort of pilgrimage through the land,

but found an army obstructing our journey.

On the next morning, as General Garfield was about to leave, Dr. Vincent

asked him, not to make a political speech, but to give in a few words

his impressions of Chautauqua. He consented, and standing upon a stump,

in the presence of a hastily assembled gathering, gave a ten-minute

address, of which the following is a part.

You are struggling with one of the two great

problems of civilization. The first one is a very

old struggle: It is, how shall we get any

leisure? That is the problem of every hammer

stroke, of every blow that labor has struck since

the foundation of the world. The fight for bread

is the first great primal fight, and it is so

absorbing a struggle that until one conquers it

somewhat he can have no leisure whatever. So that

we may divide the whole struggle of the human race

into two chapters; first, the fight to get

leisure; and then the second fight of

civilization--what shall we do with our leisure

when we get it? And I take it that Chautauqua has

assailed the second problem. Now, leisure is a

dreadfully bad thing unless it is well used. A man

with a fortune ready made and with leisure on his

hands, is likely to get sick of the world, sick of

himself, tired of life, and become a useless,

wasted man. What shall you do with your leisure? I

understand Chautauqua is trying to answer that

question and to open out fields of thought, to

open out energies, a largeness of mind, a culture

in the better senses, with the varnish scratched

off. We are getting over the process of painting

our native woods and varnishing them. We are

getting down to the real grain, and finding

whatever is best in it and truest in it. And if

Chautauqua is helping garnish our people with the

native stuff that is in them, rather than with the

paint and varnish and gew-gaws of culture, they

are doing well.

As we looked upon that stately figure, the form of one born to command,

and listened to that mellow, ringing voice, no one dreamed that within a

year that frame would be laid low, that voice hushed, and that life

fraught with such promise ended by an assassin's bullet!

The Assembly of 1880 came to its close on August 19th, after a session

of thirty-eight days. Although the C. L. S. C. had come to the

foreground and held the center of the stage, the normal work and Bible

study had not been neglected. The teacher-training classes were now

under the charge of Dr. Richard S. Holmes and Rev. J. L. Hurlbut. The

Children's Class was maintained with a daily attendance approaching

three hundred, the lessons taught by Rev. B. T. Vincent and pictures

drawn by Frank Beard; also Mr. Vincent conducted an Intermediate Class

in Bible Study. In all these classes for older and younger students,

more than two hundred and fifty passed the examination and were enrolled

as graduates.

On the last evening of the Assembly, after the closing exercises, there

was seen a weird, ghostly procession, in white raiment, emerging from

the Ark and parading solemnly through the grounds, pausing before the

Miller Cottage and the Vincent Tent for a mournful, melancholy musical

strain. This was the "ghost walk" of the guests in the Ark. Some eminent

Doctors of Divinity and Ph.D.'s were in that sheeted procession, led by

Professors Sherwin and Case, engineered, as such functions were apt to

be, by Frank and Helen Beard. The ghost walk grew into an annual march,

until it was succeeded by a more elaborate performance, of which the

story will be told later.

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