5. Occupation.

The bulk of the Chhipas dye cloths in red, blue or black, with

ornamental patterns picked out on them in black and white. Formerly

their principal agent was the _al_ or Indian mulberry (_Morinda

citrifolia_), from which a rich red dye is obtained. But this

indigenous product has been ousted by alizarin, a colouring agent

made from coal-tar, which is imported from Germany, and is about

thirty per cent cheaper than the native dye. Chhipas prepare _saris_

or women's wearing-cloths, and floor and bed cloths. The dye stamps

are made of teakwood by an ordinary carpenter, the flat surface of

the wood being hollowed out so as to leave ridges which form either

a design in curved lines or the outlines of the figures of men,

elephants and tigers. There is a great variety of patterns, as many

as three hundred stamps having been found in one Chhipa's shop. The

stamps are usually covered with a black ink made of sulphate of iron,

and this is fixed by myrobalans; the Nilgars usually dye a plain blue

with indigotin. No great variety or brilliancy of colours is obtained

by the Hindu dyers, who are much excelled in this branch of the art

by the Muhammadan Rangrez. In Gujarat dyeing is strictly forbidden

by the caste rules of the Chhipas or Bhaosars during the four rainy

months, because the slaughter of insects in the dyeing vat adds to

the evil and ill-luck of that sunless time. [472]

The Tribes and Castes of the Central Provinces of India, Volume 2 · 第 453 / 579 题