THE CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND,
CHIEFLY AS ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED IN THE WORKS OF THE LATE T. S.
MUIR.
It has been shown in the Introduction that Christianity was brought to
Scotland in the sixth century by the Celtic missionaries from Ireland,
and that, after it had endured for seven centuries, the monastic Church
of the Columbans, was superseded by the Roman ecclesiastical system.
Each of these phases of Christianity possessed its own form of
architecture--the one derived from the features peculiar to the Celtic
style of building, and the other from the development of the Romanesque
architecture general throughout Europe. The latter began to take effect
in Scotland about the beginning of the twelfth century, while the
former, which had existed from a very early date, continued to prevail
in certain parts of the country long after that period.
We shall first consider the structures of the oldest or Celtic style.
The earliest examples of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland are,
doubtless, the rude structures built with uncemented stones, which still
survive in some of the remote islands off the coast, chiefly in the
Western seas.
These islands, as well as the mainland of Scotland, have been visited
again and again by the late Mr. T. S. Muir, who has embodied the results
of his peregrinations in his volume on the _Characteristics of Old
Church Architecture in Scotland_ (1861), and in his _Ecclesiological
Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland_ (1885)--the latter containing
a _resumé_ of a number of charming little volumes produced by Mr. Muir
at different times. Mr. Muir’s account of his repeated visits to the
outlying islands is very quaint and entertaining, and shows that he has
been inspired with an enthusiasm for ecclesiology very rarely equalled.
He has certainly been the discoverer of many extremely interesting
structures, which serve to show the connection between the early
Christianity of Ireland and Scotland and the gradual development in this
country of a style of ecclesiastical architecture similar to that of the
parent isle.
The condition and features of the numerous cells and churches which Mr.
Muir visited many years ago, when they were in a more perfect state than
they now are, have been so fully described and illustrated by him that
it would appear to be a work of supererogation to follow his footsteps
and investigate them over again. We have, therefore, adopted his
descriptions and illustrations, and have prepared an abstract of the
numerous materials scattered throughout his works, arranged, as far as
possible, in accordance with the historical sequence of the types of the
buildings, and described in Mr. Muir’s own words.
Dr. Joseph Anderson has pointed out, in his _Scotland in Early Christian
Times_, that the early churches of Scotland, like those of Ireland,
consisted of a single oblong chamber, with one door and one window, and
that these structures were frequently found associated with beehive huts
and surrounded by a cashel or rampart.[61]
We have in Scotland several examples of similar churches associated with
beehive huts, and sometimes surrounded by a wall. Examples also occur of
groups of chapels resembling the well-known similar groups in Ireland.
The following are descriptions of these structures, chiefly extracted
from Mr. Muir’s works.
I. SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES, ASSOCIATED WITH BEEHIVE CELLS AND CHURCHES IN
GROUPS.
EILEAN NAOMH, ARGYLESHIRE.
An extremely interesting example of the remains of an early monastic
establishment on the Irish model is that on Eilean Naomh, one of the
[Illustration: FIG. 27. FIG. 28.
Eilean Naomh. Beehive Hut.]
Garvelloch Islands, which lie about three miles west of Lunga, off the
coast of Argyleshire. About the middle of the island, and on the
south-east side, stand the ruins of several structures. “One of the
largest and most entire is obviously a church internally 21 feet 7
inches in length, constructed, like all the other buildings, of rude
masonry, in which no lime or cement of any kind has been used. Excepting
the gables, which are wanting, the walls are perfect, but present
nothing in the way of detail more important than a square-headed doorway
of slightly tapering form in the west end, and a small square-headed
window splayed on both sides, but mostly on the interior, in the east
end, flanked on its south by a projecting shelf of slate, which seems to
have been an altar.”[62] The enclosures of what were probably the garden
and the burying-ground are visible south of the church.
[Illustration: FIG. 29.--Eilean Naomh.
Twin Beehive Huts.]
Mr. Muir then describes “another building, an underground cell of
irregular oval shape (Fig. 27), measuring 5 feet 4 inches by 4 feet 5
inches, with a depth of rather more than 4 feet. The roof is formed
simply by a few heavy slabs laid across the walls on a level with the
ground outside, and the entrance is by a slanting aperture (Fig. 28),
just where the roof and the walls unite. Two other buildings (Fig. 29),
forming a part of this curious group, remain to be described. These are
dome-shaped and joined together; the larger one internally 14 feet in
diameter, the other about a foot less. The two buildings communicate
with each other by means of a square-shaped doorway through the point of
contact, and the larger one with the outside by another doorway of the
like kind facing the south-west; but with the exception of a square
aperture at the ground, more like a gutter hole than a door, there is no
external opening in the smaller building.”[63] The dome of the smaller
structure is complete, but that of the larger is ruined. (Fig. 30.)
The island of Naomh was often visited by Columba, and the establishment
of which the above fragments are the remains is believed to have been
that originally founded by St. Brendan, and afterwards refounded by
Columba. Near the shore St. Columba’s well still survives.
One cannot fail to recognise in the above description a striking
resemblance to the early monastic establishments of Ireland. We here
find the same dry-built quadrilateral church, with door having sloping
jambs, and the same beehive huts with domed roofs.[64]
[Illustration: FIG. 30.--Beehive Huts on Eilean Naomh. (From _Scotland
in Early Christian Times_.)]
SKEABOST, SKYE.
“In an islet in the river Snizort at this place there is an open
burying-ground
[Illustration: FIG. 31.--Skeabost, Skye. East Elevation.]
containing a group of five or six chapels, the shell of two pretty
entire, the others reduced nearly to the ground. Of the former, the one
least perfect (Fig. 31) is a featureless building, externally 82 feet in
length; the other--probably that mentioned in the _Originales
Parochiales_ as dedicated to St. Columba--is externally 21 feet in
length, and has a flat-headed window (Fig. 32), 2 feet in height and 6
inches wide, in the east end, the west end blank. In
[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Window, St. Columba, Skeabost, Skye.]
the larger building there is a basin of a baptismal font, square, with
rounded corners.”[65]
“On making the shore one is immediately struck with the intensely
ecclesiastical character of the spot. From end to end the islet is
covered with the remains of chapels.”[66]
Here we find a group of chapels which were formerly surrounded by a
marsh, while fragments of an enclosing wall or rampart can also be
traced.
MUGSTOT, SKYE.
“Mugstot, properly Monkstead, stands on a slightly elevated spot
surrounded by a swampy meadow, formerly the bed of a lake, some two or
three miles from Uig, in the direction of Kilmuir Kirk. Like Skeabost,
it exhibits a group of greatly ruinated buildings, three in number,
standing in a line from north to south. The southernmost building, which
is 22 feet long inside, and pointed east and west, is the least
dilapidated, and evidently the Chapel of St. Columba mentioned by
Martin. The intermediate ruins are little more than the foundations of
an oblong building, 49 feet in length, and standing north and south.”
Then follows a description of what has apparently been a circular
cashel. “The other building is of oval form, measuring internally about
62 feet east and west, and 42 feet north and south, the walls composed
of irregularly-shaped stones, mostly of large size, uncemented, but
fitly put together. This building is very much broken down, but least
dilapidated on the east, where it is still some 7 or 8 feet high. Within
the area are observable the foundations of walls crossing each other at
right angles, the spaces between having probably been vaulted
cells.”[67]
HOWMORE, SOUTH UIST.
At Mr. Muir’s first visit there were here remains of a group of five
chapels (Fig. 33) all close together, but on his second visit he found
one removed. “The missing one was a very characteristic building, the
smallest of the group, with a very narrow rectangular window and a short
_sloping_ doorway in the east end. Externally it measured only 17½ feet
in length.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Hoghmore, South Uist.]
Of those still remaining, the largest has been about 60 feet in length.
Scarcely anything of it is standing more than the east wall, a long
cruciform couplet [widely splayed inside and looking like first
pointed],[88] in which shows that the building had been the finest and
largest of the lot. The next largest is internally rather more than 54
feet in length. Of it, also, the only remains is the east wall [pierced
with a narrow flat-headed window (Fig. 34), 2 feet long and 6 inches
wide, extremely rude].[68] The two other chapels are each about 20 feet
in length, not so much reduced, but with no features deserving notice.
[In the east gable there is a flat-headed window of very small size, and
on the south side there is one much of the same kind; on the north side
are remains of a doorway--the west end blank.][69] In two of the chapels
the altar is still extant, and there are also fine memorial slabs.”[70]
“Of the chapels, the largest is externally 20 feet in length,”[71] with
small flat-headed windows--west end blank. Of the two other chapels, the
largest is 19 feet 4 inches in length, with flat-topped window. The
other (now removed), 17 feet 7 inches long externally, by 11 feet 6
inches wide; walls rudely built. The doorway, _with inclining jambs and
flat head_, was in the east end; above, in gable, a flat-headed window,
14 inches long by 3 inches wide.
[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Howmore. East Window.]
KILBAR, BARRA.
In a burying-ground, “three dilapidated chapels, resembling very much
those at Howmore. The largest (Fig. 35) (supposed to be that of St.
Barr), (1) is externally 42 feet in length; the end walls nearly away,
the north and south walls nearly entire. The north side has a rude
triangular-headed doorway (Fig. 36) enclosed in a semi-circular arch,
and a triangular-headed window on its east. In the south wall there are
three windows of the same form--two of them together near its east end,
and one near the west end. Against the east end the altar remains almost
entire. The next largest chapel (2) is externally 30 feet in length; it
is divided by a dead wall into two unequal apartments, each having a
flat-headed doorway on the south. The east end contains a flat-headed
window 16 inches in length by 3½ inches wide, and there are windows of
like kind in the side walls, the west one blank. Of the third and
smallest chapel (4), externally 18 feet 3 inches in length, very little
is left. At my first visit (July 1855) both ends were entire, the east
one containing a small flat-topped window, the west one blank; now (July
1866) the only detail is a narrow window at the eastern extremity of the
north wall, the head round, and formed of one stone.”[72]
Another chapel at a little distance has been removed.
[Illustration: FIG. 35.--Kilbar, Barra.]
[Illustration: FIG. 36.--Kilbar, St. Mary.]
II. HERMITS’ CELLS.
The above descriptions apply to groups of chapels similar to those in
Ireland. We shall now consider Mr. Muir’s descriptions of the rude
hermitages which he discovered on some of the remotest rocks round the
coast.
THE CHAPEL OF ST. RONAN, NORTH RONA.
The small solitary island of Rona lies about thirty-eight miles
north-eastwards from the Butt of Lewis, and about the same distance from
Cape Wrath. It is about one mile long and the same in width. Such an
island, so far from land, formed a meet spot for the dwelling of an
early Anchorite, and here is still preserved the Chapel of St. Ronan.
The island was twice visited by Mr. Muir, who thus describes the
chapel:--
“Of this rude and diminutive building [the eastern chamber] not much can
be said. On the outside it is in most part a rounded heap of loose
stones, roofed over with turf. Within you find it a roughly-built cell
(Fig. 37), 9 feet 3 inches in height, and at the floor 11 feet 6 inches
long and 7 feet 6 inches wide. The end walls lean inwardly a little, the
side ones so greatly that when they meet the flat slab-formed roof they
are scarcely 2 feet apart. (Fig. 38.) Beyond the singularity of its
shape, there is
[Illustration: FIG. 37.--Teampull Rona.]
nothing remarkable in the building, its only minute features being a
square doorway in the west end, so low that you have to creep through it
on your elbows and knees; a flat-headed window without splay on either
side, 19 inches long and 8 inches wide, set over the doorway (see Fig.
38); another window of like form and length, but an inch or two wider,
near the east end of the south wall; and the altar stone, 3 feet in
length, lying close to the east end.
“Attached as a nave to the west end of the cell, and externally
co-extensive with it in breadth, are the remains of another chapel,
internally
[Illustration: FIG. 38.--Teampull Rona. Interior West End Elevation.]
14 feet 8 inches in length, and 8 feet 3 inches in width. Except the
north one, which is considerably broken down, all the elevations are
nearly entire, the west one retaining a part of the gable. A rude
flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches in height and 2 feet 3 inches wide,
in the south wall, and a small window of the same shape eastward of it,
are the only details.
“At what time either of these buildings was put up it is impossible to
say. Both are alike rude in their masonry, and between them there is
scarcely a difference in the character of their few inartistic details;
but be the age of the larger one what it may, the cell, which may be
termed the chancel of the structure at large, is certainly by many
hundred years the older erection, and in all probability the work of the
eighth or ninth century.”[73]
We have here an example of an ancient oratory enlarged by the addition
of a _nave_ into a church with nave and chancel.
TEAMPULL SULA SGEIR.
On a narrow and lofty rock, not more than one-third of a mile in
[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Teampull Sula Sgeir.]
length, situated ten or twelve miles to the south-west of North Rona and
about forty miles from the Butt of Lewis, there exists “a rude chapel,
with a stone roof, called Tigh Beannaichte (blessed house), internally
14 feet in length.”
“In a comparatively level spot, closely surrounded by rocks, there is a
low, rough, oval-shaped chapel (Fig. 39), internally measuring no more
than 14 feet in length [8 feet wide at the middle, and 6 feet 4 inches
at the ends],[74] the extreme antiquity of which there seems no reason
to question. On the outside (Fig. 40) the roof of this primitive cell is
of curved form, but inside the rude vaulting, which may be said to
commence almost from the ground, finishes somewhat short of the summit
in so many heavy slabs laid horizontally across. Externally the building
is a little dilapidated at both ends, and so is the roof; but within it
is quite perfect, and seemingly noways altered from its original state.
Entrance to it is by a low and very narrow flat-topped doorway, with
sloping jambs [3 feet 5 inches in
[Illustration: FIG. 40.--Teampull Sula Sgeir.]
height, 16 inches wide at top and 22 inches at bottom][74] in the south
wall. On its east is a small squared recess, and there is another recess
of the same kind in the west wall. The only window is a small one, of
squared form [2 feet 8 inches in length], in the east end, under which
is an altar, flanked by slabs, set on edge, and raised on a slightly
elevated dais, as is shown on the annexed plan.”[75]
FLANNAIN ISLES, OR SEVEN HUNTERS.
SEVERAL WILD UNAPPROACHABLE ISLANDS LYING TO THE WESTWARDS OF LEWIS.
Eilean Mòr, the largest of the group (about one-third of a mile in
extent), has precipitous sides and a flat grassy plain on the top, which
slopes to the south-west.
[Illustration: FIG. 41.--Teampull Beannachadh. West End.]
“The chapel of St. Flann, or Teampull Beannachadh (blessing) as it is
commonly called ... stands nakedly about the middle of the slope,
unenclosed and with no indications of having ever been surrounded by a
burial-ground. (Figs. 41, 42.) It is a very primitive looking thing,
composed of rough stones joggled compactly together without lime. The
form is a squared oblong, but not strictly regular, the external lengths
of the north and south walls being respectively 11 feet 11 inches and 12
feet 2 inches, the east and west walls, 10 feet 3 inches and 9 feet 2
inches respectively; [within the dimensions are--length 7 feet 3 inches;
width, 4 feet 5 inches.][76] The walls vary in thickness from 2 feet 5
inches to 2 feet 11 inches, taper a little, and are covered with a stone
roof internally flat, but following the obtusely pointed or cradle form
of the gables on the outside. Externally,
[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Teampull Beannachadh. East End.]
the total height of the cell is only 8 feet 6 inches; internally, 5 feet
9 inches. A narrow squared aperture, scarcely 3 feet in height [1 foot
10 inches in width],[77] in the west end, is at once doorway and window,
besides it there being no opening of any kind in the building.”[78]
III. CELTIC CHURCHES STANDING ALONE.
The number of single churches scattered over the islands and the
adjoining mainland has at one time been very large. Many of these are
now reduced to mere traces, but the ruins of a considerable number still
exist in tolerable preservation.
We shall consider these in several sections, in accordance with their
different characteristics. The simplest type is first described, but the
age of the structures is not thereby indicated.
1. Churches built in the simple Celtic style of one oblong chamber. A
few of these structures are evidently very ancient, the walls having
been built without cement, or having doors with inclined jambs. These
will be first described.
2. They will be followed by a long list of churches on the same general
plan, but in which some modifications of the original arrangement of one
door and one window are introduced. The number of windows is often
increased; but they are not arranged on a uniform plan, being generally
distributed so as to suit the locality. The windows were no doubt open
and unglazed, and seem to have been placed so as to be well sheltered,
and as little exposed to the prevailing wind as possible. In some cases
there is no window even in the east gable, and the west and north walls
are frequently blank. In most examples the windows and doors are narrow
and flat-headed, but round-headed doors and windows are also
occasionally used, showing the Norman influence. These structures all
belong more or less to the primitive type of Celtic churches, but their
primitive features cannot be relied on as fixing their date. Some may be
very early, while others may be later even than the pointed buildings to
be afterwards described. The primitive type and primitive features, such
as narrow flat-headed windows and doors, undoubtedly continued in use
long after more advanced forms had been introduced.
3. A more reliable mark of the order of succession of these early
churches is the existence of an architecturally distinguished chancel.
At what point in the development of the architecture this feature was
introduced it is impossible to say; but from the extremely rude nature
of the other elements in such examples as that at Lybster in Caithness
(described below), it must clearly have been at an early period. We
there find the plan of nave and chancel combined with such primitive
features as a low west doorway, with inclining jambs and flat lintel,
and the opening to the chancel from the nave shaped exactly like the
west doorway.
4. Examples are also found of the addition of a chancel or nave to an
older simple oblong church, thus showing that the chanceled church was a
later form of plan than the primitive single-chambered church. The
examples of these ancient churches with added chancel or nave will be
first given, and then the churches built on the plan of nave and
chancel.[79]
5. In many instances the use of the pointed arch and ornaments of Gothic
character is quite distinct. These churches are evidently of a date
between the thirteenth and sixteenth centuries. Although in other parts
of the country first pointed work would be assigned to the thirteenth
century, that rule does not apply in the Western Highlands and Islands,
where first pointed features are often continued till much later times,
and where the later styles of Gothic are scarcely represented.
(_A_) CHURCHES DRY-BUILT AND CHURCHES WITH SLOPING JAMBS.
TIGH BEANNACHADH, LEWIS.
Numerous ruins and fragments of chapels are found on the west coast of
Lewis. Among these, near Gallowhead, the great west headland of the
island, stands (Fig. 43) Tigh Beannachadh (blessing house), “a not
[Illustration: FIG. 43.--Tigh Beannachadh, Gallowhead.]
greatly dilapidated chapel [a simple oblong], internally 18 feet 2
inches in length [by 10 feet 4 inches], with a broken east window,
having an altar beside it and a doorway, and a niche in each of the side
walls; the south doorway entire and flat-headed, the masonry very rude
and _without lime_.” “It would seem to be a very old building.”[80]
DUN OTHAIL, LEWIS.
On a narrow “shelf, in the face of a high precipice, under Dun Othail,
about ten miles south of the Butt, is found the ground work of a chapel,
internally 17 feet long and 11 feet 3 inches wide, with remains of the
south doorway. The walls are 4 feet thick, and there is no _cement
used_.”[81]
CARINISH, NORTH UIST.
At the south end of the island, Teampull-na-Trianaide (Trinity Church)
consists of two not greatly dilapidated buildings of unequal size, the
larger and more ruinated one internally 62 feet in length. The only
detail,
[Illustration: FIG. 44.]
a broken round-headed doorway near west end of north wall. Connected
with it on that side by a low semi-circular vaulted passage (Fig. 44),
lighted by a small flat-headed window on each side, is the other
chapel, 23 feet in length. This building is probably of considerable
age. Windows are rude, flat-headed, and 3 feet long.[82] See Note by
Captain Thomas.[83]
(_B_) SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES WITH MODIFIED FEATURES.
1. CARA, OFF GIGHA, KINTYRE.
A chapel, 29 feet long externally; masonry rude, but with a good deal of
character. East and west ends nearly entire. Doorway about
[Illustration: FIG. 45.]
middle of north side. Window in north wall 3 feet 4 inches long and
flat-headed. (Fig. 45.) No opening in east end.[84]
2. EILEAN MUNDE, LOCHLEVEN.
An island near the mouth of Glencoe, containing ruins of a church
internally 50 feet long, with two flat-headed windows in south side and
one in north side. East end blank.[85]
3. CHURCH OF HOLY CROSS, SOUTH GALSTON, LEWIS.
Church, 18 feet 7 inches long by 12 feet wide. Windows flat-headed, one
in east end and one in east end of both side walls; west end blank.
Doorway, broken, is south-west.[86]
4. TEAMPULL PHEADAIR, LEWIS.
Remains, 63 feet long externally. In east end a flat-headed window 3
feet 5 inches high and 6 inches wide; in south wall five windows of much
larger size, and apparently of comparatively modern date. North side and
west end blank.[87]
5. ST. AULA, GRESS, LEWIS.