One window narrow and flat-headed in west end, and in south wall
flat-headed door and window. Over door a stone with date 1685, in which
year the building probably underwent repairs.[88]
6. TOEHEAD, HARRIS.
Church, internally 21 feet by 10 feet 2 inches. Windows, one in east
end, one in west gable, one in south wall, and one, together with
doorway, in north wall, are mere flat-headed slits, the east one 8
inches wide. Under east window stone altar, still entire.[89]
7. NUNTOWN, BENBECULA.
A small chapel, externally 25 feet by 16 feet, within enclosed
burying-ground, almost perfect shell, windows small, narrow, and flat in
head, two in each side and one in east end; the latter 19 inches high
and 5 inches wide. Doorway, a rude flat-headed aperture, surmounted by a
square niche, is in west end.[90]
8. PABBA, SOUND OF HARRIS.
Ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel, externally 40 feet 9 inches in length and 19
feet 9 inches wide. Doorway flat-headed, 2 feet 2 inches wide, in west
end. Above it, narrow flat-headed window, and a similar window near east
end of both side walls.[91]
9. KILMUIR, SKYE.
Church of “considerable age,” much altered. Doorway and windows small,
flat-headed, and deeply recessed inside. Arched recesses in side walls
for tombs.[92]
10. TRUMPAN, SKYE.
Old chapel, 51 feet long externally. In east end one short narrow window
and two in north wall, all flat-headed. Rudely arched doorway in north
elevation.[93]
_The following show signs of Norman influence._
11. ST. CARMAIG, KIELS, KNAPDALE.
[Illustration: FIG. 46.--Kiels, Knapdale. Exterior East Elevation.]
The church is a rudely constructed oblong, externally 42 feet in length
by 21 feet in width, roofless. Windows--one close to east end of north
[Illustration: FIG. 47.--Keils, Knapdale. Interior East Elevation.]
wall, two in south, and one with round arch in middle of east elevation.
(Figs. 46, 47.) West wall blank. Windows flat except east one.[94]
12. KILMORY, KNAPDALE.
Church, rudely constructed oblong, internally 38 feet in length by 17
feet in width. Walls well preserved. Doorway near west end of south
wall. Four windows; one near east end of side walls, and two together in
east elevation. Side windows small rectangular apertures; east one
slightly moulded and semi-circular top.[95] (Figs. 48, 49.)
[Illustration: FIG. 48.--Kilmory, Knapdale. Exterior East End
Elevation.]
[Illustration: FIG. 49.--Kilmory, Knapdale. Interior East End
Elevation.]
13. TIREE (ITHICA TERRA OF ADAMNAN).
KIRKAPOLL.--A very rudely-constructed chapel, internally 36 feet 9
inches long. In west end a plain round doorway (Fig. 50), 6 feet high,
[Illustration: FIG. 50.--Kirkapoll, Tiree. Doorway.]
rudely arched with slates, and having a small Latin cross on its south
side. In south wall a round-headed door and two round-headed
[Illustration: FIG. 51.--Kirkapoll, Tiree. Window.]
windows, with great splay internally (Fig. 51); the north elevation
blank.[96]
On a neighbouring hillock there is another chapel, internally 23 feet 5
inches long, with walls and gables entire. The windows are round-headed,
one in north wall and one in south, and doorway in south wall; east and
west walls blank.
KILCHENICH, TIREE.--Ruined chapel, 33 feet 5 inches long. Only
details--small round-headed doorway in west end.[97]
(_C_) CHURCHES WITH A CHANCEL OR NAVE ADDED TO AN OLDER STRUCTURE.
1. ST. COLUMBA, BALIVANICH, BENBECULA.
Occupying a swampy spot, formerly the bed of a lake, are remains of a
chapel probably belonging to the monks of Iona. Externally 56 feet in
length and 19 feet in width. (Fig. 52.) All the windows are flat-topped
and narrow; one in east end, three in south wall, and one in north wall.
East wall only is perfect.[98]
[Illustration: FIG. 52.--St. Columba, Balivanich. Plan.]
Was built in a remote age. The mortar is washed out of the joints. The
only door is at north end, with inclined jambs, and so low as to require
stooping position on entrance; 4 feet 7 inches high; covered with
undressed lintel. Little rectangular windows like portholes. Chancel 14
feet long by 15 feet broad; nave 33½ feet long and 14¼ feet broad. East
wall 5 feet thick; east window 2¾ feet by 6 inches wide, greatly splayed
at sides inside. Chancel walls--2 feet 2 inches thick--do not bond into
nave. Nave window in north wall 14 inches by 7 inches. South wall
windows--east one 10 inches square, the other 14 inches by 8 inches.
Chancel probably added by Lady Amy end of fourteenth century.[99]
2. EILEAN MOR.
A small island lying off the Knapdale coast. “A little way up from the
landing-place stands the half-roofless, though in other respects
scarcely at all ruinated, shell of ‘Kilvicoharmaig, the Mother Church of
Knapdale,’ surrounded by an open and nearly obliterated burying-ground.
Its external plan (Fig. 53) is a simple oblong, measuring 37 feet 5
inches in length and 20 feet in width. Internally the building is
divided into chancel and nave, the division being a gabled wall open by
a semi-circular arch composed of long thin slates. An apartment, which
was probably a comparatively modern contrivance, appears to have gone
over the nave, as there is a fireplace and chimney in the upper part of
the west wall, not bearing marks of antiquity.
“The chancel is covered by a low waggon vault, between which and the
external roof there is a chamber lighted by a square window in the apex
of the west gable. In the east end of the chancel (Fig. 54) are two
small round-headed windows placed considerably apart, the north one,
like the window at the neighbouring Kiels, having its interior sill
underdrawn and levelled for an altar.
[Illustration: FIG. 53.]
“In the interior south wall is a large round-headed recess, containing
the tomb and headless effigy of an ecclesiastic, and in the wall
opposite are two smaller recesses of the same kind--the eastern one
having a window behind and a square lychnoscopic-looking aperture on one
side near the ground.
“The chancel evidently belongs to an early period, and in style mostly
resembles Norman, though some alterations (designed, there can be no
doubt, to procure more shelter) have somewhat modified the pristine
character of its detail. Originally the entrance was by a round doorway
in the north side of the nave; but this has been built up, and another
one, square and smaller, opened through the wall opposite. The window
lights have all been reduced by the inserting of a slate pierced with a
short and narrow lancet--that on the south, in the east end, plain
[Illustration: FIG. 54.--Church of St. Carmaig, Eilean Mor. Exterior
Elevation of East End.]
pointed, the other one trefoiled. But the most important alteration is
in the chancel arch (Fig. 55), which has been lessened by blocking to a
small flat-topped doorway with a square hole right through the wall on
each side of it; over each of these holes, within the chancel, is an
ambry of the usual square form.”
In a recess among the rocks are remains of a rectangular building,
measuring internally 11 feet 3 inches by 10 feet 10 inches--the walls
rudely built without cement, and more than 4 feet in thickness. This is
the Chapel of St. Carmaig, “made by his own hands” soon after he came to
the place for retirement and devotion. The entrance to the building
[Illustration: FIG. 55.--Exterior West Elevation of Chancel.]
is a narrow flat-headed doorway of primitive character in the east wall.
This structure communicates with a natural cave, and probably existed as
a religious cell long before the neighbouring Kilvicoharmaig was
erected.[100]
3. ST. COLUMBA’S, EY., LEWIS.
A long narrow building of two compartments, divided by a thick wall,
containing arched passage. Eastern compartment internally 62 feet in
length by 17 feet in width; western one 23 feet by 16 feet 3 inches.
Different parts erected at different times from character of masonry. In
eastern or larger compartment, windows are mere flat-headed slits, flush
outside, widely splayed inside; east one 4 feet 4 inches by 7½ inches;
south one 3 feet 8 inches and only 3 inches wide. In western division
masonry less primitive looking; resembles Norman. Windows--one in west
end, one in north side, and one, together with door, in south side; all
round-headed, flush outside, and widely splayed inside.[101]
4. ST. COLUMBA, KIELS, KINTYRE.
Long narrow building, with small round-headed windows and doorway in
side walls only.
Length outside 75 feet 3 inches; width only 18 feet 10 inches; unbonded
juncture 29 feet from east end, shows that chancel has been extended to
west; masonry of usual rude description; stones of added part are
squared and like Norman work. Plain round-headed doorway on south-west,
and two or three small round-headed single windows.[102]
5. KILCHOUSLAN, NEAR CAMPBELTOWN, KINTYRE.
Chapel, rather more than 58 feet in length, nearly entire; all apertures
[Illustration: FIG. 56.--Kilchouslan. Plan.]
square-headed. North wall blank; seems to have been lengthened by about
20 feet; fissure at junction similar to that at Kiels.[103]
[We give Plan and View (Figs. 56, 57) of this church, originally 36 feet
7 inches long by 17 feet wide internally. The and windows are
square-headed and built with freestone, now much decayed; the remainder
of the
[Illustration: FIG. 57.--Kilchouslan. View from South-West.]
walls is built with whinstone. The added chancel is marked by the
freestone corners of the east end of the original church, which still
exist. The chancel measures 19 feet in length by 17 feet in width. The
east wall is now demolished.]
6. KILCHENZIE, NEAR CAMPBELTOWN, KINTYRE.
[We also give Plan and View of this structure (Figs. 58, 59). A simple
oblong church, 40
[Illustration: FIG. 58.--Kilchenzie. Plan.]
feet 11 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide internally, with one
round-headed window, 6 inches wide, cut out of a single stone in south
wall. A chancel, 27 feet 4 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide, has
been added, of which the junction is quite apparent. One small pointed
window in east end of chancel.]
[Illustration: FIG. 59.--Kilchenzie. View from South-East.]
IV. CHURCHES BUILT WITH CHANCEL AND NAVE.
1. ST. MARY’S, LYBSTER, CAITHNESS.
A rudely constructed building (Fig. 60) consisting of chancel and nave.
Flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches high, with inclining jambs, in
west end (Fig. 61), and possibly another door in south wall. No
[Illustration: FIG. 60.--St. Mary’s, Lybster. Plan.]
windows except, perhaps, one high up in east gable. Chancel entrance
same as west doorway.[104]
[Illustration: FIG. 61.--St. Mary’s, Lybster. View of Doorway in West
End.]
2. CHURCH OF JOHN THE BAPTIST, SOUTH BRAGAIR, LEWIS.
Not much wasted; consisting of chancel and nave; respectively 12 feet 8
inches and 19 feet 10 inches long inside, with flat-headed windows--one
east and one south in chancel, and one in west end of nave. Chancel arch
and south-west doorway broken; former seems to have been pointed.[105]
3. ST. MICHAEL’S, BORVE, BARRA.
Consists of nave and chancel; respectively 23 feet and 7 feet 10 inches
in length inside. Only ground plan left.[106]
(This and St. John’s, Bragair, the only churches in Lewis with chancel
and nave constructively separated.)
(_D_) CHURCHES WITH POINTED OR LATE FEATURES.
1. ST. CATAN’S, GIGHA, OFF KINTYRE.
Old church, oblong, 33 feet long and 15 feet 2 inches in width. One long
lanciform window in east end (Fig. 62); stone font.[107]
[Illustration: FIG. 62.--St. Catan’s, Gigha. East End.]
In Islay numerous traces of chapels are found, of which the following
are the best preserved; some have lancet windows, and the others, with
square or round heads, do not appear to be very old.
2. KILDALTON, ISLAY.
Church, 60 feet long. East end contains two long lanciform windows,
recessed semi-circularly within--one in west gable and one in each side
wall. In south wall a canopied piscina and effigy of mailed figure.[108]
3. KILNAUGHTON, ISLAY.
Church, internally 38 feet long; west end blank. Small narrow window in
east gable.[109]
4. KILNEAVE, ISLAY.
Church, 30 feet long, and not very old. Two windows, short and wide--one
in east elevation and one in south wall. Arches semi-circular, of thin
stones.[110] (Fig. 63.)
[Illustration: FIG. 63.--Kilneave, Islay.]
5. KILCHIERAN, ISLAY.
East end and fragment of south wall of chapel. No window, but two
recesses in east wall inside, with ambry and projecting piscina.[111]
6. ST. NINIAN’S, SANDA.
An island off the east coast of the Mull of Cantyre. The church is an
oblong, 32 feet 9 inches. (Fig. 64.) Walls pretty entire. Doorway
[Illustration: FIG. 64.--St. Ninian’s, Sanda. Plan.]
plain, chamfered, and flat-headed, at north-west. Windows small and
flat-headed. (Fig. 65.) Small circular piscina. Lying inside, bowl of
font.[112]
[Illustration: FIG. 65.--St. Ninian’s, Sanda. South-East Window.]
7. ST. COLUMBA’S ISLE, LEWIS.
At the mouth of Loch Erisort is St. Columba’s Chapel, externally 35 feet
6 inches in length and 18 feet 7 inches in width. East elevation nearly
entire; contains flat-headed window, 4 feet by 6 inches, and in west
gable smaller one same shape. South side contains a narrow lanciform
window, and broken doorway on left. North side nearly gone.[113]
8. PENNYGOWAN, MULL.
Chapel, 39 feet 9 inches long internally. Three narrow single-light
windows, with heads slightly curved; doorway similar. East end
blank.[114]
9. LAGGAN, MULL.
Chapel, 35 feet long internally. North side, long lanciform window and
round-headed door; heads of one stone; east end of south side long,
narrow round-headed window; west end, window with drip-stone; east end
blank. Basin of octagonal font.[115]
10. INCHKENNETH, NEAR ULVA.
Remains of church; seems to be of early first pointed date; simple
oblong, 40 feet 8 inches long by 19 feet 8 inches wide, with small
ruined sacristy on south-east. Flat buttresses at corner of east end,
which contains two long lancet windows enormously splayed inside. Side
walls have each one similar window, and broken doorway in north wall.
Circular piscina.[116]
11. ST. MOLUAC, RAASAY.
First pointed. Internally 46 feet in length. In west end two short
narrow lancets, semi-arched inside, one in middle of wall, the other
aloft in gable. In east end one similar. In south wall two windows and
flat-headed doorway, and inside a large semi-recess in wall.[117]
12. KILLEAN, KINTYRE.
Perhaps Mother-Church. Details more elaborate than usual, vaulted, and
sacristy or chantry chapel at north-east. A south-west doorway, and
another near east end of south wall, and apparently an unusually
distinguished chancel. Narrow round-headed lights on both sides. East
end a very long couplet, formerly separated by a buttress; tooth
ornament round exterior openings; moulded label, string and cornice, and
corner nook shaft.[118]
13. KILBRIDE, KNAPDALE.
Large, not much ruined.[119]
14. EORRAPIDH, LEWIS.
Teampull Moluach. Simple oblong; internally 44 feet long by 17 feet 9
inches wide, with north-east sacristy and south-east chapel, both roofed
with lean-to. (Fig. 66.) Doorway at south-west, semi-arched;
[Illustration: FIG. 66.--Teampull Eorrapidh, Lewis. Plan.]
east window round head, rear arch pointed; west window smaller, round
head with round rear arch. At top of east and of side walls two small
square windows close together, and to west one large and round-headed of
one stone. Windows in side buildings mere slits, flat in head.[120]
15. OLRIG, CAITHNESS.
Walls of old church apparently first pointed.[121]
16. KILCHIEVEN OR KILCOIVEN, KINTYRE.
Simple oblong, a good deal demolished; 51 feet 8 inches long by 17 feet
8 inches wide internally. North-west pointed doorway; remains of
two-light window in south wall, and hole in south wall for piscina.
(Fig. 67.)
[Illustration: FIG. 67.--Kilchieven Church. Plan.]
[Illustration: Egilsay, Interior of Choir.]
CHURCHES IN ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.
DRAWN AND DESCRIBED BY SIR HENRY DRYDEN, BART.
About forty years ago the ancient churches of Orkney and Shetland were
minutely examined by Sir Henry Dryden, who then made measured plans and
drawings of the buildings, showing their condition at that time.
In 1870 Sir Henry deposited copies of his drawings (copied by Mr.
William Galloway) and descriptions of these churches in the hands of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. As these drawings and descriptions
contain much information, which, from the natural decay of the
structures, is now lost, it appeared to us that the information
collected so long ago by Sir H. Dryden would form an interesting chapter
in this work on the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland.
This view has been adopted by Sir Henry, who has most kindly agreed to
allow his drawings and descriptions of the ruined churches of Orkney and
Shetland to be embodied in this book. The consent of the Council of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland has also been freely given, and these
valuable drawings and descriptions of ancient churches, which are
rapidly disappearing, are now published for the first time.
The descriptions are arranged, as far as possible, in the order of the
type of the plans, commencing with the oldest type of simple oblong,
one-chambered churches, and then continuing with the churches containing
architecturally distinguished choir and nave. (See Note by Sir Henry
Dryden, pp. 172, 173.)
CHAPEL ON THE BROUGH OF DEERNESS.
The brough is on the east coast of Deerness, and measures on the top
about 400 feet north and south by 240 feet east and west. It is
separated from the mainland on the south-west by a narrow ravine or
“geo,” which is almost wet at high water. (Fig. 68.)
The brough is highest on the north, and at that part is about 90 or 100
feet high. (Fig. 69.) The coast hereabouts is steep and rocky. The use
of the word _brough_ for a detached rock, when _no fort_ is placed on
it, is not unfrequent.
The chapel (Fig. 70) is near the centre of the brough, enclosed in a
yard 57 feet by 45 feet, of which only the foundation remains. The
[Illustration: FIG. 68.--Brough of Deerness.]
[Illustration: FIG. 69.--Chapel on Brough of Deerness.]
entrance into this is not evident. The chapel is a parallelogram, 24
feet 5 inches by 17 feet 4 inches outside. The west wall is 3 feet 2
inches, and the others 3 feet 11 inches thick. Only about 4 feet 6
inches and 5 feet in height remain above ground. It stands nearly true
east and west, the west end facing a little south of west. It is built
of clay slate from 1 foot to 3 feet long, and 2 to 7 inches thick, now
much covered with yellow lichen. It has only one doorway (Fig. 71),
which is in the west
[Illustration: FIG. 70.--Chapel on Brough of Deerness. Plan.]
end, and apparently was only 2 feet wide; but the west wall is
irregular, and appears to have been altered and repaired. The upper part
of the doorway is gone, but probably it was square headed, with a stone
lintel. The jambs are not splayed, and have no rebate for a door, nor is
there any bar hole.[122] By digging at the west doorway it appeared
probable that the floor inside was about 6 feet below top of sill of
east window, but the level is uncertain, as the interior is much covered
with debris.
Apparently there was only one window, which is in the east end. (See
Fig. 71.) The top is gone, so that it is doubtful whether it was flat or
arched. One jamb is gone and the other somewhat mutilated, but 1 foot 9
inches in height of it remains. The window had a clear opening of 1 foot
3 inches, with jambs splayed inside, to 3 feet 6 inches in width. It
appears to have had the outer 11 inches of the jambs parallel, and to
have contained glass. On a part of the east wall is built a beacon used
for the survey.
In the north wall, near east end, is an ambry 2 feet 4 inches wide, not
less than 2 feet 4 inches high (top is gone), and 1 foot 11 inches
recessed. It has no traces of having had a door.[123] Supposing the
floor to have been 6 feet below sill of east window, probably the side
walls were about 8 feet high, and the points of the gables about 18 feet
from floor. The roof was probably of large slabs of stone along the
eaves and above them, either of smaller slabs or of “divots,” fastened
down with “simmons” as on houses.
[Illustration: FIG. 71.--Chapel on Brough of Deerness. Elevations.]
The external length is equal to the diagonal of the square of the width.
About 35 yards south of the chapel is a tank or well.
On the south edge of the brough are stones which appear to have once
formed a wall, and at this point is the entrance from the “geo.”
Spread over the top of the brough are foundations of at least 18 huts.
They are mostly parallelograms, of about 24 feet by 12 feet outside, and
the walls 2 feet 6 inches and 3 feet thick. These were for the use of
devotees who used this as a place of pilgrimage.
A survey of our coasts and lakes will show how strong a partiality
existed in early times for selecting as sites for churches and monastic
establishments small islands, isolated rocks, or promontories difficult
of access--for instance, the two St. Michael’s Mounts, Lindisfarn, Iona,
Ireland’s Eye, Inisfallen, &c. Nor was this taste for isolation peculiar
to the coasts. We find throughout Europe, and, indeed, in the East also,
numbers of peaks difficult of access, bearing such buildings. The brough
of Deerness and the brough of Birsay are good examples.
CHAPEL ON THE NORTH SHORE OF HEAD OF HOLLAND.
This is situated within a few yards of the shore, and not many feet
above water level. It is only a heap of ruins, but the measures are just
ascertainable. It is a parallelogram, measuring 37 feet east and west by
[Illustration: FIG. 72.--Chapel near Shore of Head of Holland. Plan.]
15 feet 4 inches north and south inside. The north and south walls are 2
feet 6 inches thick, and east and west ends 3 feet 3 inches, and are of
the red sandstone of the locality. There was a door in the south wall.
Planned in 1870. (Fig. 72.)
HALCRO CHAPEL, SOUTH RONALDSHAY.
This is now wholly destroyed, and even the foundations taken out, but
the measures were obtained by Mr. G. Petrie so soon after the removal of
the latter that the thickness of the walls could be accurately
determined.
It was a parallelogram, 21 feet by 14 feet inside. The walls were 2 feet
6 inches thick. The place of the doorway was not ascertained. Planned in
1870. (Fig. 73.)
[Illustration: FIG. 73.--Halcro Chapel, in South Parish, Ronaldshay.
Plan.]
ST. TREDWELL’S CHAPEL, PAPA WESTRAY.
This chapel is situated on a little holm in a fresh water loch on the
east side of Papa Westray. (Fig. 74.) It appears probable that a Pict’s
[Illustration: FIG. 74.--St. Tredwell’s Chapel. Plan and Section.]
house was constructed on this holm, and that the chapel was built on its
ruins. This St. Tredwell is the same as St. Triduana, whose day in the
Roman calendar is October 8th. She is not mentioned by Alban Butler. The
chapel was much frequented in its day, and many benefits were said to
[Illustration: FIG. 75.--St. Tredwell’s Chapel. Plan and Elevations.]
be obtained from the Saint by her devotees. It is a plain parallelogram
(Fig. 75), 20 feet 3 inches east and west by 13 feet 10 inches north and
south inside, and stands west by south and east by north. There is a
narrow doorway near the west end of the south side. Only the lower
portions of the walls remain, except at north-west angle, which measures
8 feet high; but here we have, as usual, the unfortunate information
that within memory the east gable and south wall were standing. The
thickness of the wall on the north is 3 feet 11 inches; east, 4 feet 2
inches; south, 4 feet 3 inches; and west, 4 feet 9 inches. It is stated
that there was a window in the east end, and that the doorway was flat
headed. No trace of a window remains, and only about 3 feet 6 inches of
the door jambs remain. These have a rebate into which a door is fitted,
but whether in a wooden frame or not cannot be ascertained. The original
floor appears to have been 10 feet above water level.