Of Ladies’ Wigs, and important remarks thereon—Of Mounting and Making
Ladies’ Wigs—A well-balanced Wig essential—A Wig with Parting and
Straight Hair throughout—All Weft to be concealed—Alterations—Of
Wigs with transparent Partings—Mounting and Making the same—Shape of
Head to be noted, together with any elevations or depressions—The
Wig-block should be a correct Model of the Head.
It is now my intention to treat of ladies’ wigs, but before doing so, I
desire to make a few general remarks concerning them. If possible, I
think it best to avoid making an entire wig for ladies’ wear, if the
customary plaited knot is intended to be worn behind, and my reason for
expressing such an opinion will presently appear. Partial baldness among
the female sex is not uncommon, but this defect can well be concealed by
coverings specially made for the purpose. These pieces of ingenious
workmanship, be they frontlets, scalpettes, fringes, partings, twists,
chignons, curls, plaits, or what not, are easily and securely attached
to the natural hair-growth, while a ribbon-bow, feather, flower, lace,
cap, or other decoration lends a charm, and completes the coiffure. But
when a wig is required, through the head being very considerably
deprived of its natural covering, a difficulty immediately arises as to
holding it securely in position, and this difficulty is increased by the
smoothness of the scalp, caused, perhaps, through the nature of the
ailment, or in consequence of the head being shaved. Besides, to promote
the growth of hair, the shaving process should be frequently repeated,
and, as a consequence, the smoothness remains until the hair has
acquired sufficient strength and thickness to be permitted to grow.
Then, as the hair increases in growth, the wig becomes more troublesome,
and it is a welcome moment when the wearer can discontinue its use, and
appear in a “short crop” which is, at the present time, so generally
adopted for fashion’s sake. But some cases of alopecia are known to have
defied all attempts to restore the hair, while others, again, only lose
it for a time, from no assignable reason. Instances like this
necessarily require coverings for the head, which, in the case of
gentlemen, are comparatively easy to deal with, but in long-haired wigs
for ladies it is a different matter altogether.
Copious instructions have been given respecting board work in general,
and the various manufactures therewith connected; and the ingenious
tradesman will find but little difficulty, I am inclined to think, in
devising a wig for ladies’ wear, whether it be curled all over as a
“friz,” with or without parting, or frizzed in front only, with the hair
short and partially straight behind. In either case the wearer would be
at liberty to exercise discretion in the use of additional _postiches_,
which may be employed with advantage, either as regards appearance,
comfort, and what is perhaps no less important—additional security. In
making wigs let it be a golden rule (1) that they _bind_ well to the
head, and (2) that the front and back parts be equally-well balanced,
or, as nearly so as possible. I said just now that I thought “it best to
avoid making an entire wig for ladies’ wear, especially if the customary
plaited knot is intended to be worn behind,” and here is my reason for
saying so: _It too frequently happens that wigs of this description are
over-weighted at the back._ Consequently they slide away from the face,
leaving the forehead bare. This, of course, is a fearful source of
anxiety and annoyance to the wearer, and complaint is forthwith made to
the tradesman who executed the order. The article is then returned
perhaps as a misfit, or else to undergo certain alterations. These are
carried out by additional depth being given to the front; necessitating,
perhaps, the insertion of a new parting; the hair at the back probably
will be reduced in quantity (and it may be shortened), the result
proving, doubtless, satisfactory. _Why? Because the wig is now more
evenly balanced, and consequently sits upon the head a great deal
better._ Here, then, is the secret of making a wig feel comfortable—let
it be well proportioned, and use no more hair than is necessary. I
cannot conceive anything so distressing to a wearer as the feeling of
anxiety and discomfort which a wig causes through evincing a strong
tendency to slip down behind. This should be overcome, and a clever
wig-maker can, if permitted to use his own judgment, prevent, under
ordinary circumstances, such a _contretemps_ taking place.
[Illustration: Fig. 42.]
Respecting the mounting of a lady’s wig, I wish, in the first place, to
direct the learner’s attention to what I have said upon the subject in
preceding chapters, so as to avoid unnecessary repetitions. True the
matter there refers to those worn by gentlemen, but the _modus operandi_
is almost identical, and will apply, to a very great extent, in both
instances. The clean block and pencilled outline, the putting on of the
galloon, and attention to curves, the ears, temples, etc., must be
equally well attended to—the principal difference being in the shape of
the front part, to which it is requisite more particularly to allude.
In comparing Fig. 38 (mount for gentleman’s wig) with the mount for a
lady’s wig,[28] the variation becomes apparent. A gentleman wears the
parting at the side, but as a lady usually parts her hair in the centre,
the front has necessarily to be somewhat differently designed. Let us
suppose that a wig has to be made according to the design given on the
preceding page, with a patent skin parting in front and long hair
behind. The parting, I should say, ought to be five or six inches in
length if straight hair is to be employed, and, perhaps, still longer
should “a friz,” or short curls be desired. Why? To preserve the balance
as much as possible, of which I have already spoken. There might be
(say, for example) two ounces of 14 and 16–inch hair in front, and two
and a-half ounces of 18 and 20–inch at the back; and if the mount be
made well forward there need not be any apprehension of the wig slipping
off. But should the wearer wish to have a fringe on the forehead, with
curls at the sides (either long or short), equality of weight must,
nevertheless, be maintained, and the other portion treated accordingly.
A well-balanced wig is, at all times, essential to success.
To make a wig, then, for straight hair only, mount it as previously
instructed. Having fixed the galloon according to pencilled outlines,
baste it carefully and put another piece of galloon across the top,
which must extend from ear to ear. Next attach galloon to where the
mount rises above the temples, pass it round the back like a fillet, and
fasten on to the corresponding side. Prepare and cover the springs, and
place in position as indicated. In the neck, just behind the ears, two
other springs are to be attached, similar to those marked in Fig. 39.
Galloon is also to pass from the top of the parting to the nape of the
neck; a piece of broad ribbon on the top, between the two springs,[29]
and the net being put on finishes the mount. Whether the hair shall be
woven or knotted is optional, and in reference to both methods of
affixing hair, instructions have been freely given in other places. If
the former be decided upon it may be advisable to refer to page 139,
_i.e._, in so far as the front is concerned, but a somewhat different
way must be adopted with the back. After filling up the neck and angular
parts with the longest or most suitable length of hair, it will be found
that there remains a more or less circular place at the back to be
covered, and in order to do this properly the sewing should be commenced
in the middle, and continued round and round (like making rings upon
paper without removing the pencil), until the whole is filled in. The
weft ought to be very fine and well spread, and in the _centre part_
especially the rows need not be anything like close together. Indeed,
rather than leave an unseemly opening, I have found it necessary at
times to fill up the middle portion with short, fine hair, which, being
concealed by the longer hair is no defect whatever. By such an
arrangement, lightness is maintained, while the rows of weft are
continuous and regular. The weft being measured, and a calculation made
as to the space to be covered, the worker must then act accordingly.
There are two principal points now to be mentioned. First, the
cross-parting from ear to ear, which in the present instance I have
designed should be formed with the weft. It requires some little ability
to do this nicely, for the hair must be so placed as to conceal the
weft, though still making a separation or parting. Some do it by
adroitly covering with the hair all the weft except the last row, which,
being closely woven and very fine withal, is sewn on the wig the wrong
way, _but_, the hair being pressed into proper position, covers the
weft, and effectually conceals it from view. There are other modes of
attaining this object, but much depends on a man’s ingenuity, for here
is a difficulty which a clever workman must seek to overcome. Secondly,
it is natural for some fine, short, more or less fluffy hair to grow in
the neck; and here is the next trial of skill on the part of the
wig-maker. No weft, of course, should be seen in such a noticeable
place, therefore attention must be given at the outset to hide the lower
row or rows, partly by skilful manipulation in sewing on, and also by
means of the short hair to which I have just alluded. In effecting the
concealment of the weft, attention should be given to the different
kinds employed in the manufacture of _postiches_, etc.[30]
Referring to the illustration last given, I wish to observe that the
mount there shown can be adapted to a transparent, instead of a skin
parting, with very little trouble. An order might be taken for one of
the latter description, and perhaps countermanded when the mount is
completed in favour of one of a lighter manufacture. All that is
necessary under such circumstances would be to cut away the
lower-central piece of galloon; adapt the basting threads to the altered
conditions, and connect with zigzag stitches.[31] Besides, alterations
are not unfrequently required in wigs after they have been worn; and a
wearer may wish for increased ventilation in it, through its causing the
head to feel hot and uncomfortable; or other changes might be wanted
which necessitate the insertion of a new parting. The requirements of
people are various, but the ingenious workman seldom acknowledges a
difficulty that (within reasonable limits) cannot be overcome.
To make a lady’s wig with transparent partings, pencil the outlines upon
a clean block, but, if possible, get the partings done before-hand; my
reason for this I have already given. Exactness is essential, for, with
the mount being made in one place and the partings (front and
cross-partings) in another, a discrepancy _might_ occur which is best
avoided. I will suppose that the hair, partings, galloon, net, etc., are
all ready to hand; the measurements carefully observed, and, perhaps,
some other necessary details noted. Commence by tacking on the galloon
at the neck, bring it towards the left ear, and then, over the temple to
the side of the parting; turn, and continue the galloon as far back
towards the crown as the front parting is intended to go. Turn again,
and fasten off at the top of the ear, taking care to follow the line
marked for the parting. A portion of one side of the mount is thus
formed which can be traced by referring to Fig. 42. The right side
should be done in the same way, and I need hardly observe that both
sides must correspond exactly. Next place the galloon so as to extend
from one temple to the other, and across the back of the neck after the
manner of a fillet, but it must overlap (just behind the ear) that which
was first put on. Another piece of galloon is next to be fixed in
position across the top of the head, extending from one ear to the
other. With an obvious exception at the top, there will now be two
galloons exactly the width and length of the cross parting, and two
galloons in front also, exactly the width and length of the front
parting. The professed wig-maker may raise an objection to the galloon
remaining at the ends of the side partings; but in such places it will
scarcely be seen, and by allowing it to remain much additional strength
is given to the wig—no unimportant consideration with those of an
economical turn of mind. But, as I have repeatedly stated, these lessons
are not designedly for the very skilful, and it is a question whether
the man who attempts to make a wig such as I am describing need refer to
this at all. I imagine not, but there are learners, and to them
instruction will always be acceptable. The springs (made of fine
watch-spring) are to be neatly covered and placed in their respective
positions. It is advisable to affix one on each side of the front
parting, and the others where necessary to maintain the proper shape of
the mount. The net should be put on next and sewn according to
instructions frequently given before. Whether the hair is to be knotted
or woven, the maker must decide, but perhaps the former is best adapted
for a wig of this kind. Whether the partings should be attached before
or after a greater portion of the hair is knotted or sewn on, is
optional, so long as their proper adaptation is secured. Should they be
of gauze or net, it may be thought desirable, first of all, to attach
some thin skin, to counteract as much as possible the effects of
perspiration and grease; but if the foundation be made of human hair, no
such precaution is necessary.
I have before alluded to the different kinds of net used in wig-making,
and there is also variety in galloons, some being white and some
flesh-colour, as well as the ordinary brown. Bear in mind my remarks
about ladies’ wigs being well-balanced, and when measuring the head,
carefully observe the shape. If smooth and round, two elastic springs in
the neck will be absolutely necessary; but should the head incline to
fulness (either back or front) these more or less prominent organs,
speaking phrenologically, will perhaps give a “stay” to the wig, and the
elastics may be considered unnecessary. A word or two concerning natural
elevations and depressions may probably be useful. It has been
previously stated that in mounting a wig the block must be at least half
an inch larger round than the actual measurement; this is to allow for
shrinking. Should there be any protuberances or “bumps” apparent, a
similar elevation must be made upon the block, and, of course, exactly
in the same position. This may be done with thin sheet lead, such as
tea-chests are lined with; but should there be a depression, then the
place upon the block must be filed or scraped away if necessary. The
block is, as it were, the model; and with a good model to work upon, a
perfect fit can almost be ensured.
I need not dilate upon any other styles of ladies’ wigs, believing that
I have said quite enough to enable a man to make almost anything that
might be required.