Of Gentlemen’s Wigs (_continued_)—Difference between Woven and Knotted
Wigs considered—Instructions for Making a Knotted Wig—Of the Parting
and Crown—Of the Crown only—Pressing, Dressing, etc.—A Superior kind
of Wig Described, and Making the same—The Transparent Parting and
Crown—Sundry Important Details.
“Do you not think,” said a gentleman to me one day, “that a wig made
with weft is rather old-fashioned?” The question can only be answered in
the affirmative, because knotted work has very generally superseded it,
but, I maintain, for a man to be clever in any trade or profession (and
wig-making forms no exception to the rule), he must be acquainted with
all the rudimentary parts. To be well grounded in the first principles
of an art is, other qualifications being equal, a sure precursor of
success. Careful instructors are well aware of this, and as a
consequence, cause their pupils to undergo much preliminary training
before entrusting them with more difficult tasks. The medical and legal
professions, painting, sculpture and music, chemistry, photography, and
many others might be enumerated to show the amount of technical
instruction which must, as it were, be drilled into a man before he is
sufficiently clever to take a foremost place in his profession. The art
of hairdressing furnishes another instance of what I am asserting, and
the talented coiffeurs, who give expositions of their skill at the
different _concours_ in Paris and London, afford examples of untiring
energy, and great attention to the most trifling details. The fact is,
he who desires to be clever must go plodding, plodding on, regarding
nothing as too trivial for him to do, and nothing (within reason) too
difficult for him to attempt. Weft of one kind or the other will always
be in requisition; it is the key-stone of the hair-work trade, affords
employment to the less skilful, imparts durability to false hair
manufactures, and is contributory to cheapness.
My inquiring friend could have put a similar question to me respecting
the metallic spring; but, let me ask, if a customer did not wish it, and
it was not considered necessary by the wig-maker, why introduce it at
all? The spring can be left out, and other lesser springs substituted,
as it is very much a matter of taste or convenience. Some persons cannot
bear the pressure of a metallic spring, which, perhaps, is attributable
more to the spring not fitting the head properly than to the
oversensitiveness of the wearer.[26] Yet I am under an impression that,
for ordinary wear, a wig with a well-fitting metallic spring across the
top, or at the back of the head (the latter especially) is both secure
and comfortable; the wig retains its shape better, and, with weft, is
much more durable. In matters of this description a great deal depends
upon circumstances, and the arrangements made between buyer and seller.
My desire is to give completeness to the work which I have undertaken;
to have, as it were, a “word in season” for every emergency; to lead the
pupil far on the road towards proficiency, and, having arrived there, he
can well be left to look after himself, for he is no longer a learner,
but a good boardsman.
To make a knotted wig, I will direct the reader’s attention to Figs. 38
and 39, and request him to mount a wig in accordance with the
instructions given therewith. He can mount it with, or without, the
metallic spring, but in either case, care must be taken to affix springs
of the requisite lengths, and in suitable places to keep the angles or
points well in position. All the springs must be neatly covered, and put
on _before_ the net; in fact, as the wig is to be knotted, all galloon
work should be done first, and the net affixed last. Silk net is to be
used. In sewing, first stitch the net to the edge of the galloon in the
usual way, and allow it to overlap the other edge before cutting off.
Now that portion which overlaps is to be turned under and sewn, of
course, to the second edge, and thus all the galloon becomes firmly
covered with net. The same applies to the springs and with even greater
force to the edges of the mount itself; and here it is necessary to be
extremely careful, for when the job is completed and comes under the
scrutinizing glance of the master, all wefts should be as regular and
well-set as plants in a garden. There must not be inequalities, gaps, or
other irregularities, all should be neat and trim. In this instance I do
not propose inserting either a parting or crown. I rather prefer leaving
the student to “try his ’prentice hand” in making them himself, at
least, so far as he is able. My last wig was not intended for a clearly
defined parting; neither is this one. The mount is now ready for the
hair, instructions concerning which have already been given.
The course to be pursued when knotting the hair, is similar to that
which was adopted with the weft—the object being the same. I would
observe that, instead of turning in the net as before directed, the
maker can (if he chooses) sew upon the galloon two or three rows of very
fine wig-weft; one or two of them, however, must cover the edge of the
net as well. Additional firmness being thus secured, the knotting can
then be proceeded with. In knotting over or on the galloon and springs,
coarser work, if considered desirable, may very well be done, but when
it is executed on the net, the knots should be moderately fine and
regular. The angles, or points of the wig, are to be well and properly
filled in, and of course, all the hair should be drawn in the direction
in which it is intended to lie. How close, or how far apart, the knots
are to be placed is difficult to say. All net is not made alike; some
meshes being large while others are small, and, of course, a fixed rule
would not apply. Besides, all workmen are not painstaking or patient,
therefore the knotter must observe closely the aspect of his work, and
be the judge. Perhaps, with a moderately close mesh, it might be
sufficient to knot hair in every other space; if this appears to make it
too thick, reduce the number of hairs. This is a tolerably safe rule to
follow, and a little practical experience will do the rest. The shorter
hair is to be used for the neck and sides, the longer for the top; but
in these matters such copious instructions are already given that the
student cannot well make a mistake if he reads them attentively. He has
merely to substitute “knots” for “weft,” and the whole will apply to the
job he has now undertaken.
As to the parting and crown, some of the details which have appeared are
applicable here. As a clearly defined parting is not intended, it is
merely necessary to implant, or knot the hair closer and finer on the
side where the parting should be, than in any other portions of the wig.
What division there is should be made with the brush (not with the
comb), care being taken that the foundation is well covered with hair,
and, of course, concealed from view. The crown is to be done last of
all, and, if knotted upon the wig net, the design given for making a
woven crown, Fig. 40, should be carried out as far as possible. The four
sections are to be knotted in such a way that the hair of one falls over
the other, while the knotting immediately in the centre should be finely
and closely arranged.
Except it be for practice or an economical customer, I do not expect
that such a crown will generally be made, because a silk, skin, net,
gauze, or other crown can be obtained from the hair merchant, or patent
parting maker, which, of course, imparts a better finish to the wig, and
presents a more natural appearance. The illustration, Fig. 39, gives a
circle adapted for either of the crowns just mentioned, and if a silk or
skin one be employed no alteration in this part of the wig is required;
but, should a transparent one be inserted, the cross-pieces of galloon
must be omitted when mounting, or else cut away afterwards—the reason is
obvious. If a transparent crown be inserted, it is optional whether a
piece of thin skin (or other light material) be put on first, so as to
prevent, to a certain extent, the effect of perspiration, but if a human
hair foundation be employed, no such precaution is necessary. Whether a
protecting substance be used or not, that part of the crown in which
hair is implanted should be brought close to the inner edge of the
galloon, and the free portion, _i.e._, that upon which no hair appears,
should lie flat on the galloon, to which it must be neatly sewn. Should
any of the material on which the crown is worked overlap the galloon, of
course it must be cut away. The vacant space (which will be just the
width of the galloon) can then be filled in with weft, unless the net is
properly arranged for knotting. But, should a non-transparent parting be
employed, the galloon can remain as shown, and the whole be covered with
the net used for the wig. In this case the edges of the crown are to be
turned in very neatly before it is sewn in position, and, if possible,
they ought to be concealed by means of the galloon, the intervening
space is either to be filled in with weft, or else the hair can be
knotted.
It will thus be seen that various methods of finishing off what might be
termed the crowning point of a common wig can very well be adopted.
For Pressing, Dressing, Elastic Springs, &c., see remarks which have
from time to time been made.
I have given such copious directions for making gentlemen’s wigs, and
dwelt at such length upon the various points essential to a good fit and
the comfort of the wearer, that, perhaps, but little more need be said
upon the subject. My instructions have been chiefly associated with
productions that are strong and durable, for it may be accepted as a
truth that when a man can execute the commoner work well, only a short
time will elapse before he attempts, or is called upon, to do something
better. Besides, as I have so frequently remarked, my instructions are
more intended for learners than for skilled men. These do not stand in
need of instruction; indeed, it would be impertinent to offer it to
them; but with apprentices, improvers, and others whose opportunities
for learning are few, the case is widely different. Though I have dwelt
at some length on the manufacture of gentlemen’s wigs—wigs that will
endure a fair amount of every-day wear—yet a few particulars concerning
the better-class article will certainly not be out of place, and might
prove to be exceedingly useful.
[Illustration: Fig. 41.]
I must, therefore, again direct the reader to observe Figs. 38 and 39,
and attentively read the instructions with which they are accompanied.
Having done this, the above illustration is to be studiously regarded,
and a marked difference will easily be perceived. The outline, as a
matter of course, is to be preserved, and if the student feels so
inclined, he can take a tracing and fill in the markings shown upon the
others. There is no necessity for doing so, except that it impresses the
mounting of a wig upon his memory in a more effectual manner. This wig
is intended for a transparent parting and crown, the foundation of which
may be either human hair, gauze, net, or such material as is generally
used for the purpose. Before putting on the mount, it is best to provide
the parting and crown, as well as the hair to be used for the other
parts of the wig. Instructions as to length and quantity have already
been given. My reason for saying that the parting and crown should be
obtained _before_ putting on the mount is, because exactness can be
better observed. The edges of the parting work lie on the galloon to
which it is sewn; the inner edges of the galloon must come close up to
the margin of the implanted hair; “gaps” or vacancies should not be
observable, but when the wig is removed from the block and examined, the
parting and crown, being surrounded with the galloon, ought to look like
a piece of artistic work well set in a frame. Of course, a silk or skin
parting and crown may be employed instead of a transparent one, but then
there is no occasion to leave the opening in front, as shown in the
engraving.[27] In that case the galloon can pass round the head, be
continued across, and the whole covered with net; this will impart
strength to the wig—a transparent effect not being required.
To mount a wig for the transparent parting and crown, commence tacking
on the galloon at the neck, the free portion lying towards the left
hand. Proceed, keeping the galloon fairly tight till you reach the lower
part of the ear; use more points, and continue till the top of the ear
is approached; carefully curve the galloon and make a decided point in
front of the ear. Then incline the galloon as shown on the temple, and
up to where one corner of the parting is intended to be attached. Turn
the galloon and trace the outline for parting and crown, returning to
the angle near the centre of the forehead. Incline the galloon
sufficiently low (but not lower than is absolutely required) and
continue round the other side of the block till the starting-place is
reached. Cut off, but see that there is at least half-an-inch of free
galloon upon each side, which will presently have to be sewn together.
You have now the outline galloon upon the block, which, after careful
measurements, must be securely basted. (The “points” and basting
stitches sufficiently well indicate this.) Afterwards, it will be found
that the galloon is puckered in various places; pinch some of these
together, sew through and through close to the block, and fix so as to
obliterate all such indications. The inner galloon or “fillet” is next
to be put on. This passes round the back of the head (at the neck) and
is fastened upon the galloon at each side of the parting. A piece of
galloon is then placed at the back, extending from the crown to the
lower part of the neck; pieces of galloon being put at the sides,
reaching from the top of the ears to the crown. Another piece of galloon
is attached to the point upon the forehead, and joins the parting
galloon in a straight line with the piece at the back. Springs are
placed as shown in the engraving, or in such other positions as may be
required. No metallic spring across the top can be used, and one at the
back is best avoided, for with correct measurements, and perhaps one or
two elastic springs in the neck, a close-fitting wig may well be
assured. A reference to the illustrations will suggest other minor
details, and, after all that has been said, the learner will know how to
deal with them. The mount having been completed, the springs being
neatly covered and placed in position, it now remains to put on the net.
Given a transparent parting and crown, the other portions of the wig
should be knotted. Indeed, all the better class of work ought to be so
treated, though, in some instances, a little weft may be employed with
advantage, especially if strength be required. However, in this
instance, I have designed a knotted wig, the openness or closeness of
the net being left to your own selection; regard always being paid to
the kind of work you are going to do. When this part of the wig is
completed the net ought to “fit like a glove,” and wherever there is
galloon, the net must be sewn to the edges of the same.
The knotting or insertion of the hair ought to be done with neatness and
great regularity, and should be continued until nearly the whole of the
wig is covered, with the exception of the parting and crown. Having
dwelt at length on this part of the subject in other places, I cannot do
better than ask the student to refer back for more complete details.
With regard to the transparent parting and crown, the reader is invited
to look at Fig. 41, and he will perceive that the side galloons (on
which the edges of the parting and crown are intended to be sewn) are
securely held in position by some large stitches placed in a zigzag
direction. These stitches can be increased or diminished at pleasure, or
taken away altogether if such a step be desired, but I do not recommend
it. They are intended to impart additional strength to the zephyr-like
parting; to keep it from tearing, and to prevent its widening or
stretching, as it most likely will do, unless something effectual be
done to stop it. Most certainly there ought to be a “stitch” or “stay”
within half an inch of the front of the parting, another should be
placed where the parting ends and the crown begins, while a third might
well be put mid-way between the two. There is a substance specially
employed for making these stitches, called “Silkworm Gut,” which can be
obtained at Messrs. Hovenden & Sons’ warehouses, and, as its name
implies, is a kind of gut, white in appearance, and impervious to
perspiration. The best white silk cord (about the thickness of coarse
thread) is sometimes preferred; it can be renewed when thought
desirable, and is, further, soft to the head. This arrangement, then,
being completed, a piece of skin, used for the purpose, can be attached
to the side galloons, but is not required when the foundation is made of
human hair. The skin should not be allowed to reach the front of the
parting, and must be turned upwards and inwards, so as to present a neat
and even appearance at the edge when the wig is taken off the block.
These preliminaries having been duly attended to, the parting and crown
may now be put in position and sewn carefully, so as to avoid any
wrinkles or puckering; it must lie flat, be perfectly smooth, and
resemble the natural parting of hair as much as possible. Herein lies
the art of the wig-maker—to imitate nature so skilfully that detection
is almost impossible—a feat that is accomplished not unfrequently by
some of the most skilful wig-makers of the day.
The larger portion of the mount being now covered with hair, and the
parting and crown fixed, it remains for the intervening spaces to be
filled in, which having been done the work is ready to be pressed.
Instructions and remarks on this branch of the subject have already been
given.
If possible, it is at all times desirable to try on a wig before giving
it up to the wearer, and this remark has special reference to
gentlemen’s wigs. Elastic springs (in the neck) may or may not be put in
before the fitting process takes place, and the finishing touches
should, if required, be completed upon the head. The hair ought to be
well combed and dressed to the face, and anything striking or likely to
draw attention to the wearer (so far as the wig is concerned) must be
studiously avoided.