The use of Leather Rollers in Curling Hair—Papering and Pinching Hair
with the same object in view—Plaiting Hair (for Coiffures)—Of
Razors, Razor Setting, and Razor Strops—Miscellaneous Recipes.
Besides the preparation of hair for making it into twists, curls,
bandeaux, scalps, wigs, etc., there are many other things to be done
with care and attention, and “Board-work” will not be complete without
some allusion being made to them. For instance, there is the curling of
hair with leathern rollers. These rollers are smooth, soft, round, and
well adapted to the purpose. They make a nice curl if properly
manipulated, do not break the hair, and only the application of a little
warmth is necessary. For ringlet hair nothing can be better, no matter
whether it be real or false. Next to the employment of rollers, is the
process of papering and pinching the hair. A dexterous workman
experiences no difficulty whatever in rolling up a thin strip of hair
(no matter whether it be long or short) with his thumb and finger, and
wrapping the usual three-cornered curl paper around it. But a
curling-peg is more generally employed. This is a round piece of hard
wood about six inches long, perfectly smooth, with one end much thinner
than the other. The reason is—should the hair be short, or a tight curl
required, the small end must be used, but if the hair be long, and a
full, round, curl wanted, then the thicker portion has to be employed.
The curl is made by rolling it round and round the “peg” (beginning at
the points and ending at the roots), and keeping it as flat as possible
all the time. Then hold the curled portion securely between the thumb
and fingers of the left hand, withdraw the “peg,” and place the curl
within the three-cornered paper aforesaid, screwing up the ends to make
all secure. When this is done, the curl should feel perfectly round
within the paper, the centre being equally as well formed but hollow.
Bear in mind what I have so frequently said before, that all curls
should turn to the face. Only a medium quantity of hair is to be taken
for each curl, and all ought to be about the same size. The curls are
next to be “pinched,” and, for this purpose, pinching irons are brought
into requisition. If the hair be somewhat new, and of good quality, the
less heat that is applied the better, but should it be otherwise much
warmth and pressure is necessary. Old hairdressers can recollect when
the fronts and curls which came to be re-dressed had to be baked (they
were so numerous), and how trouble was caused sometimes, through their
being “overdone.”
The papering should be done in regular order, and all quite cold before
the papers are removed. For dressing, a little oil (not pomade) should
be used, and the curls—if long or short ringlets—formed with the aid of
a curl-stick or cold curling irons. True, they can be formed with the
fingers, but the other method I consider best. Short, round curls, of
course must be made with the fingers after a little frizzing, but these
operations are difficult to explain in writing—they want practical
illustration, which, now that we have societies and schools, is easily
obtainable.
Concerning the beautiful art of plaiting hair for ladies’ coiffures, the
reader is informed that copious instructions are already given in my
“Lessons in Hairdressing,” and to that work he is respectfully referred.
Of razors and razor-sharpening much might be said, both as regards the
instrument itself, as well as the proper mode of keeping it in order.
Every hairdresser and barber knows when he is in possession of a good
razor, and undoubtedly takes proper care of it. He is to be commended
for this, as he simply follows the course adopted by those in other
walks in life. Whether the old-fashioned description of razor is better
or worse than the more modern “hollow-ground” I will not discuss,
believing that a great deal depends upon the shaver, the nature of the
beard, and the conditions under which the shaving operation is
performed. Good practice in a barber’s shop is the best school in the
world for imparting a knowledge of easy shaving; while ordinary
intelligence combined with shrewd observation, will go far towards
making one a master of his art.
“It appears,” observes a writer[32] on the subject, “that the choice of
a razor may quite as well be left to the makers, as determined by the
purchaser; however, it sometimes happens, that, exclusive of its
goodness, the weight, the poise, &c., of a razor, are circumstances
which seem to claim acquaintance with particular hands; and, with regard
to these, every one will do well to suit himself.
“I have lately ventured, notwithstanding the long-established notion
that weight is a very requisite property in a razor, to recommend those
which were deficient in this respect; and I will embrace this
opportunity to offer the reasons which influenced my judgment on the
subject.
“It does not appear, upon considering by what means a razor acts, that
its ponderosity can assist in the operation; the performance depending
upon the condition of the edge, abstractedly from its weight; momentum
can assist only where force is requisite; thus, in dividing a tough
piece of wood, we find that the edge of a knife, however keen, cannot
make its way; it becomes necessary, therefore, to use some instrument of
more weight, which, being applied by an accelerated action of the arm,
becomes equal to the task. The weight of all cutting instruments should
be adapted according to the nature of their acting; and if the beard
required to be hewn, or chopped off, doubtless, a hatchet, with a sharp
edge, would answer the purpose better than a razor; on the contrary, if
the beard can be erased by an unforced incision, which is certainly the
case, an instrument of no considerable weight, with a proper edge, will
always deserve the preference; for the hand, having nothing to overcome
in point of weight, performs with more exactness and ease, than it
possibly can, when feeling the oppression of weight in the instrument it
has to manage.”
As regards hollow-ground razors much can be said in their favour, and
many in the trade consider them to be the best, but of this each man
must judge for himself. I think that much depends on fancy, and what we
are accustomed to, as well as to the mode of treatment. Sometimes it is
requisite to put a long-used razor by for a time so as to restore its
edge, and the following observations anent “Tired Razors” are _à propos_
of the subject:—Barbers often assert that razors get “tired” of shaving,
and that they will work satisfactorily if permitted to rest for a time.
It has been found by microscopic examination that the “tired” razor,
from long stropping by the same hand, and in the same direction, has the
ultimate fibres of its surface or edge all arranged in one direction,
like the edge of a piece of cut velvet; but after a month’s rest the
fibres rearrange themselves heterogeneously, crossing each other, and
presenting a saw-like edge, each fibre supporting its fellow, and hence
cutting the beard instead of being forced down flat without cutting.
Razor-setting cannot well be taught—it must, (like tuning a violin)—be
acquired. Some persons are unable to set a razor with any degree of
certainty, while others become recognised as clever in that branch of
the business. The quality of the hone is an important consideration in
razor-setting; it should neither be too hard nor too soft. The razor has
to be rubbed from heel to point in the usual way, and _always turned on
the back_. The edge should be tried from time to time upon the thumb or
finger-nail, until it feels quite smooth and keen, it is then to be
fixed or “set.” This is effected by passing the razor to and fro, as
lightly as possible and with single strokes upon the hone. Do this for a
short time until the edge “bites” the nail as it were, when the setting
is completed. Should it not do so, the assumption is that the setting
has not gone far enough; the other extreme being when the edge is wiry,
and then the setting is overdone. In either case the job is not
satisfactory, as the razor is “not in tune,” and will quickly require to
be set again.
Stropping assists greatly in fixing the edge of a razor, and perhaps I
cannot do better than quote what Mr. Savigny says upon the subject:—
“In strapping a razor, it is necessary to observe, that the thick or
hind part bears upon the leather at the same time the edge does: for if
the back is raised, the hand loses its only guide; in which case it
could not fail of receiving some injury; but if the razor is applied
flat, and the strap a proper one, ten or twelve strokes, on each side
the blade, will be sufficient to give the edge its necessary
refreshment.
“I have always given directions to draw the razor downwards, from the
termination of the edge to the point; having experienced that this is
the most steady manner the hand can act in; and it is an observation
pretty well established, that any thing may be drawn to a much greater
degree of exactness, than it can be shoved; and in the present case,
were a razor to be pushed upwards along the strap, that is, from the
point to the termination of the edge, there would be some danger of its
turning on the rivet, and cutting both the leather and the fingers; to
be as secure as possible in this respect, it will be well to place the
hold just above the rivet, grasping at the same time the handle, and
that part of the blade which issues from it.
“The manner in which a proper strap acts upon a razor must necessarily
form an edge most suitable for the purpose, as it neither wears it so
fast as the hone, nor confines its effects entirely to a flat; by the
gentle manner in which it operates, and being in some measure yielding
to pressure, it cannot leave that roughness upon the edge, which the
hone, on account of its quickness, and the solidity of its surface, is
commonly found to produce.”
There cannot be two opinions regarding the importance of a good strop,
and its being kept in proper condition, if the edge of a razor is to be
considered.
For ordinary use, I give the preference to buff leather mounted upon
wood in the old style, but there should always be a layer or two of
common leather or other suitable substance between; otherwise there will
be a hardness which, to say the least, is not agreeable. Softness and
pliability should always be aimed at, and, doubtless, this is why many
prefer a long piece of buff securely fastened to the wall. In preparing
the leather for shop use, after having cleaned and thoroughly dried it,
saturate it with olive oil, and then let it be well dressed with
suitable razor paste. (If the leather is intended to be affixed to wood,
it must be glued on first and time allowed for the glue to harden.)
Canvas strops are generally recommended for hollow-ground razors, but
they are specially prepared in Germany, with the aid of suitable
machinery. When unprepared, the canvas is exceedingly hard, and to adapt
it for use, it should be filled with soft soap, the ends secured, and
boiled for some length of time in a sufficient quantity of water. It is
then to be pressed flat, scraped, and well rubbed with a smooth, round
instrument until it becomes soft and pliable.
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.
RAZOR PASTES.
(1.) From jeweller’s rouge, plumbago, and suet, equal parts, melted
together and stirred until cold.
(2.) From prepared putty powder (levigated oxide of tin), 3 parts; lard,
2 parts; crocus martis, 1 part; triturate together.
(3.) Prepared putty powder, 1 oz.; powdered oxalic acid, ¼ oz.; powdered
gum, 20 grains; make a stiff paste with water, q.s., and evenly and
thinly spread it over the strop, the other side of which should be
covered with any of the common greasy mixtures. With very little
friction this paste gives a fine edge to the razor, and its action is
still further increased by slightly moistening it, or even breathing on
it. Immediately after its use, the razor should receive a few turns on
the other side of the strop.
(4.) _Mechi’s._—Emery, reduced to an impalpable powder, 4 parts; deer
suet, 1 part; well mixed together.
(5.) _Pradier’s._—From powdered Turkey stone, 4 ozs.; jeweller’s rouge
and prepared putty powder, of each, 1 oz.; hard suet, 2 ozs.
_Obs._—The above (generally made up into square cakes) are rubbed over
the razor strop, and the surface being smoothed off with the flat part
of a knife, or a phial bottle, the strop is set aside for a few hours to
harden before being used.
SHAVING PASTES.
(1.) Naples soap (genuine), 4 ozs.; powdered Castile soap, 2 ozs.;
honey, 1 oz.; essence of ambergris, and oils of cassia and nutmegs, of
each 5 or 6 drops.
(2.) White wax, spermaceti, and almond oil, of each ¼ oz.; melt, and,
while warm, beat in two squares of (white) Windsor soap, previously
reduced to a paste with a little rose water.
(3.) White, soft soap, 4 ozs.; spermaceti and salad oil, of each ½ oz.;
melt them together, and stir until cold. It may be scented at will. When
properly prepared, these pastes produce a good lather with either hot or
cold water, which does not dry on the face. The proper method of using
them is to smear a minute quantity over the beard, and then to apply the
wetted shaving-brush, and not to pour water on them, as is the common
practice.
ESSENCE OF SOAP, SHAVING ESSENCE, OR SHAVING FLUID.
White hard soap[33] (in shavings), ¼ lb.; rectified spirit, 1 pint;
water, ¼ pint; perfume (at will), q.s. Put them into a strong bottle of
glass or tin, cork it close, set it in warm water for a short time, and
occasionally agitate it briskly until solution be complete. After
repose, pour off the clear portion from the dregs (if any) into clean
bottles for use, and at once closely cork them. If the solution be not
sufficiently transparent, a little rectified spirit should be added to
it before decantation. A little spirit (fully proof) may be added if it
be desired to render it thinner. If much essential oil be used to
perfume it, the transparency of the product will be lessened.
Chiefly used for shaving, by travellers and others, to avoid the trouble
of carrying or keeping a soap-box. By simply rubbing two or three drops
on the skin, and applying the shaving brush, previously slightly dipped
in water, a good lather is produced. The choice of perfume is a mere
matter of taste, as with toilet soaps, 15 to 20 drops of essence of musk
or ambergris, 1 fluid drachm of any of the ordinary fragrant essences or
esprits, or 12 or 15 drops of essential oils (simple or mixed), per
pint, are sufficient for the purpose, a corresponding name being given
to the preparation; as “Essence,” or “Esprit de Savon à la Rose,”
“Essence Royale pour la Barbe,” &c.—_Cooley._
ROSEMARY HAIR WASH.
Cold (boiled) water, ½ gallon; spirit of rosemary, 10 ozs.; eau de
Cologne, 10 ozs.; glycerine, 2 ozs.; salts of tartar, 1 oz.; liquor
ammonia, ½ oz. Colour with burnt sugar.
AMERICAN SHAMPOO LIQUID.
Take of sesquicarbonate of ammonia, and carbonate of potash, of each, 2
drachms; soft water, 1 pint; dissolve, and add the solution to a mixture
of tincture of cantharides, 1½ fluid ounces; rectified spirit, ¼ pint;
and good rum, 1½ pints; and agitate the whole well together, adding a
little scent or not, at will. A commoner kind, in which the “rectified
spirit” and one-third of the “rum” is replaced by water, forms the
“shampoo liquid” often used by hairdressers, after cutting the hair.
A WASH FOR MOIST, LAX HAIR.
Take of essential oil of almonds, 1 fluid drachm; oil of cassia, and
essence of musk, of each, ½ fluid drachm; rectified spirit, 2½ ounces;
mix, and add gradually, with brisk agitation, 16 ounces of distilled
water, in which 1 ounce of finest gum arabic has been dissolved. The
hair and scalp should be slightly moistened with the liquid, and the
hair at once arranged, without wiping, whilst still moist.
WASHES FOR DRY, STUBBORN HAIR.
The best and most effective of these consists of glycerine dissolved in
any fragrant distilled water, as that of roses, or orange or elder
flowers, in the proportion of 1 to 1½ ounces of the former, to 1 pint of
the latter. Some of them also contain 15 to 20 grains of salt of tartar
per pint.
EGG JULEP.
Egg julep, or saponaceous wash, is made as follows:—Rectified spirit, 1
pint; rose-water, 1 gallon; extract of rondeletia, ½ pint, transparent
soap, ½ oz.; hay saffron, ½ drachm; shave up the soap very fine; boil it
and the saffron in a quart of the rose-water; when dissolved add the
remainder of the water, then the spirit, finally the rondeletia, which
is used by way of perfume. After standing for two or three days it is
fit for bottling. By transmitted light it is transparent; but by
reflected light the liquid has a pearly and singularly wavy appearance
when shaken.—_Piesse._
BAY RHUM.
Tincture of bay leaves, 5 ozs.; otto of bay, 1 drachm; bicarbonate of
ammonia, 1 oz.; biborate of soda (borax), 1 oz.; rose water, 1 quart.
Mix and filter. _Piesse_ says: “This is a very good hair-wash. It was
first introduced in New York by those go-ahead scissors that
‘abbreviate’ the ‘crown of glory.’”
_Another._
Bay leaf otto, ½ oz.; magnesium carbonate, ½ oz.; Jamaica rum, 2 pints;
alcohol, 3 pints; water, 3 pints. Triturate the ottos with the magnesium
carbonate, gradually adding the other ingredients, previously mixed, and
filter.—_Snively._
TO ALLAY IRRITATION OF THE SKIN AFTER SHAVING.
Powder, either plain or scented, is the best counter-irritant after
shaving, but as some persons give the preference to bay rhum, the
following formula may be adopted:—Bay rhum (of the ordinary strength), 8
ozs.; rose water, 8 ozs.; glycerine, 2 ozs. Mix, and let it stand for a
few days, then filter. Should this be found too powerful for general
use, add more rose water.
BRILLIANTINE.
A solution of castor oil in eau de Cologne, 1 part in 4. Another:
Glycerine and eau de Cologne, of each 1 part; honey, 2 parts; rectified
spirit, 4 parts. Another formula is as follows:—Castor oil, 1 oz.;
esprit de rose, 1 oz.; spirits of wine, 2 ozs. A few drops of tincture
of saffron to colour.
MARROW OIL.
Prepared (benzoated) lard, 3 lbs.; clarified beef suet, 1½ lbs.; palm
oil, ½ lb.; yellow wax, 4 ozs.; castor oil, 1 lb.; olive oil, 1½ lbs.;
ess. oils of bergamot, lemon, and cloves, of each, ½ oz.
HAIR OIL.
Finest olive oil, 3 lbs.; castor oil, ½ lb.; ess. lemon 1½ ozs. To
colour, steep 1 oz. of alkanet root (bruised, and tied in muslin) to
every 20 ozs. Apply heat by means of a water bath, and filter.
THE END.
-----
Footnote 1:
See page 37.
Footnote 2:
For the convenience of those who desire the information, I may state
that Messrs. R. Hovenden & Sons keep all the necessary implements in
stock, and supply them to the trade.
Footnote 3:
_Vide_ _The Hairdressers’ Chronicle_, 15th July, 1876.
Footnote 4:
See illustration in Chapter V.
Footnote 5:
See Fig. 9.
Footnote 6:
Fig. 16.
Footnote 7:
Concerning French weights, measures, and money, the following
information will, doubtless, be useful:—The unit in weights is the
gramme. 28 of which go to the English ounce; 1,000 grammes are called
a kilogramme, or, shortened, a kilo., equal in weight to 2 lb. 3 oz. 4
drs. English avoirdupois. The unit in measures is the metre, equal in
length to 39⅓ inches English. The metre is divided into 1,000 parts,
each of which is called a millimetre; 10 millimetres are called a
centimetre. The length of a centimetre is rather more than one-third
of an inch English, the figure in decimals being 0·39371. One foot
English is equal to 304 millimetres, and an inch equals rather more
than 25 millimetres. The unit in money is the franc, equal to
ninepence-halfpenny English. The franc is divided into one hundred
parts, each of which is called a centime; five centimes are called a
sou; and a sou is rather less in value than a half-penny.
Footnote 8:
Donisthorpe _v._ Jowett, 1876; _vide_ Law Report in _The Hairdressers’
Chronicle_.
Footnote 9:
Fig. 17.
Footnote 10:
Fig. 18.
Footnote 11:
Fig. 20.
Footnote 12:
Fig. 21.
Footnote 13:
Fig. 22.
Footnote 14:
Fig. 26.
Footnote 15:
Fig. 29.
Footnote 16:
Page 150.
Footnote 17:
There are (or used to be) silk nets made for the purpose, very strong
and durable, and could be procured where the “trimmings” are usually
sold. The crown of this net is left rather loose and threaded on a
silk cord. The cord is held up, which gathers the loose meshes
together, when it should all be fastened, and thus a caul net well
fitting the head is formed.
Footnote 18:
I mention six inches because hair of that length is most convenient
for a learner to practise with, but you will have to knot hair of
various lengths, from the shortest for gentlemen’s _perukes_, to very
long for ladies’ wigs.
Footnote 19:
Fig. 35.
Footnote 20:
Fig. 34.
Footnote 21:
Fig. 34.
Footnote 22:
Fig. 34.
Footnote 23:
Fig. 37.
Footnote 24:
Figs. 38 and 39.
Footnote 25:
Fig. 36.
Footnote 26:
See Fig. 36, and remarks thereon.
Footnote 27:
Fig. 41.
Footnote 28:
Fig. 42.
Footnote 29:
See Fig. 29.
Footnote 30:
See Chapter V.
Footnote 31:
Page 202.
Footnote 32:
A Treatise on the Use and Management of a Razor, by Mr. Savigny.
Footnote 33:
Olive-oil (white Castile) soap, or almond oil soap is here intended.
It should be moderately dry when weighed, next reduced to thin
shavings, and then further desiccated by exposure to warm, dry air,
but no artificial heat should be employed. By replacing a portion (say
one-third) of the above with an equal weight of dry, white tallow soap
(_i.e._, curd soap) the “lathering” quality of the essence will be
increased.
Wertheimer, Lea & Co., Printers, Circus Place, London Wall.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENTS.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS,
31 & 32, BERNERS ST., OXFORD ST., W.,
AND
91, 93, & 95, CITY ROAD, E.C., LONDON.
HAIR MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS
Wholesale Perfumers,
FANCY SOAP MAKERS AND GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN FOR HAIRDRESSERS.
Importers of Essential Oils, Sponges, French Pomades & Oils, Fancy
Combs, Etc.
THE LARGEST AND MOST COMPLETE STOCKS IN LONDON OF
MANUFACTURED HAIR,
Trimmings, Partings, Ornamental Hair,
_COMBS IN HORN, SHELL, & RUBBER_,
HAIR, TOOTH, NAIL & CLOTH BRUSHES,
CUTLERY, MIRRORS, HAIRDRESSERS’ TOOLS, AND SHAMPOOING REQUISITES.
Proprietary Articles In Perfumery
Kept in Stock or procured at short notice.
☞ _NO TRAVELLERS represent the Firm. Their enormous expenses being
avoided, R. H. & SONS can offer their Goods from 10 to 20 per cent,
below those Houses who employ them._
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE POST FREE UPON RECEIPT OF BUSINESS CARD OR INVOICE
HEADING.
ESTABLISHED 1846.
EDWIN CREER,
Hairdresser, Wig-Maker, & Manufacturing Perfumer,
MAKER OF CHIGNONS, TWISTS, SWITCHES, PLAITS, CURLS, AND ALL KINDS OF
ORNAMENTAL HAIR.
589, COMMERCIAL ROAD EAST, LONDON, E.
[Illustration: 589, COMMERCIAL ROAD EAST, LONDON, E.]
Dealer in Combs, Brushes, Fancy Goods, and other Requisites for the
Toilet.
POMADES, OILS, WASHES, PERFUMES, POWDERS, HAIR DYES AND RESTORERS, ETC.
[Illustration]
ARTIST IN HAIR—ESTABLISHED 1846.
EDWIN CREER,
589, COMMERCIAL ROAD EAST, LONDON, E.,
MANUFACTURES ALL KINDS OF HAIR JEWELLERY FOR THE TRADE,
Rings, Brooches, Bracelets, Watch-Guards, &c.,—and Device-Work of every
description.
⁂ _Best work guaranteed, and at the lowest possible prices._
No. 1. Hair, Gold Top 2s. 3d.
No. 2. All Gold, with Hair Plait and Heart or Shield Top 6s. 6d.
No. 3. Albert Guard, with Gold Mountings 15s. 6d.
_Letters of inquiry, as well as others requesting, price list and
designs, should enclose a business card, and a_ STAMP _for reply_.
TERMS—CASH ON OR BEFORE DELIVERY.
HAIRDRESSERS
ABOUT
COMMENCING BUSINESS
As well as those already established,
WILL FIND AT
R. HOVENDEN & SONS’ WAREHOUSES
THE BEST SELECTION OF
SCISSORS, COMBS, RAZORS, BRUSHES, TOWELS, SHAMPOOING APPARATUS,
And every requisite for the Trade at Prices which DEFY COMPETITION.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS
_Hold the largest Stock of Human Hair in the Kingdom._
PATTERNS MATCHED,
And, except in extraordinary colours, sent per RETURN OF POST.
THEATRICAL HAIR—A SPECIALITY.
Current Prices are advertised in _The Hairdressers’ Chronicle_.
PRICE LIST POST FREE ON APPLICATION.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS, LONDON.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS’
Seven-Guinea Complete Outfit.
£ s. d.
1 French Polished Shaving Chair 0 15 6
1 French Polished Shampoo Stand 2 7 0
1 Marble Back Slab for 0 5 0
1 Ebonised Frame Mirror, 36 in. by 20 in. 0 15 0
1 Outside Projection Tablet 0 7 0
1 Gas Stove 0 4 0
1 Tin Shaving Pot, for ditto 0 2 9
1 Buff Leather Strop 0 1 0
12 Turkish Shampooing Towels 0 7 0
2 Haircutting Cloths 0 5 0
2 Shaving Cloths 0 2 6
2 Aprons 0 2 6
2 Blouses 0 7 0
1 Pair Curling Irons 0 1 0
4 Bars Shaving Soap 0 1 0
1 Spray Producer and Bottle 0 1 6
1 Pair Saloon Brushes 0 2 6
1 Shaving Brush 0 0 8
1 Shaving Bowl 0 0 6
1 Neck Brush 0 0 8
1 Box and Puff 0 0 6
2 Cutting Combs 0 1 0
2 Razors (Voogd’s) 0 5 0
2 Pairs Cutting Scissors 0 5 0
1 Hone 0 2 6
1 Bottle Hair Oil 0 1 8
1 lb. Violet Powder 0 0 9
1 Bottle Bay Rhum 0 0 8
2 Bottles Lime and Glycerine 0 0 6
2 Cosmetics 0 0 4
—— —— ——
£7 7 0
== == ==
These Goods are always in Stock, and may be selected from a great
variety. We shall be glad to send estimates for lower or higher
priced outfits.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS, LONDON.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS have always in Stock a large assortment of Tools and
Fittings suitable for Board-work.
_A full List will be found in their_ ANNUAL CATALOGUE.
CURLING IRONS from 10d. to 2/ each.
PINCHING IRONS from 1/3 to 4/9 each.
CRIMPING IRONS from 2/ to 9/ each.
SCREWS AND STICKS 1/ and 1/6 per set.
CARDS 1/9, 3/6, & 9/6 each.
MOUNTING BLOCKS 4/6 each.
WEAVING SILK 2/ per oz.
SEWING SILK 2/3 per oz.
DRAWING BRUSHES from 6/6 to 15s. per pair.
GAUZE HOOKS, KNOTTING NEEDLES, & WIG NETS in great variety.
R. HOVENDEN & SONS, LONDON.
VOOGD’S SPECIALITIES.
=Voogd’s Razors= (Registered) =Hollow Ground=.
These Razors, if properly stropped, will wear for a considerable length
of time, and are strongly recommended for trade use.
Made with Square, Round, or Irish Points, in 5 sizes, viz., ½ in., ⅝
in., ¾ in., ⅞ in. and 1 in.
PRICE, any size, Black Handles, 30s. per dozen.
PRICE, any size, Ivory Handles, up to ⅞ in., 44s. per dozen.
VOOGD’S SCISSORS.
With Finger Rests, 6½, 7, and 7½ ins., 32s., 38s., and 44s. per dozen.
With Flat Shanks. 6½, 7, and 7½ ins., 24s., 30s., and 36s. per dozen.
To avoid imitations see that both Razors and Scissors are stamped with
the Registered mark, thus—
[Illustration: VOOGD]
Depôt: R. HOVENDEN & SONS, London & Paris.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
1. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling.
2. Retained anachronistic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as
printed.
3. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
4. Enclosed bold font in =equals=.