Of Gentlemen’s Wigs, and a few additional observations thereon—To make
a strong and durable Wig with woven Hair throughout—Mounting a
Wig—The Metallic Spring again—Various kinds of Net used—Caution
against using too much Hair—Sewing on the Weft—The Crown made with
Weft—The Parting formed with Weft—Pressing the Work—Of Elastic
Springs—The Wig completed.
It is now my intention to treat of Gentlemen’s Wigs, and I think that,
so far as general remarks are concerned, there is but little to add to
my former observations on the subject. The approved method to be adopted
for measuring the head, together with other necessary instructions, have
been already given, to which the reader is referred. Like every thing
else, gentlemen’s wigs admit of considerable variation, and can be made
to suit the pockets of all classes. Some customers are strictly
economical; they do not so much care for appearances, their desire being
to have a wig that shall be strong, durable, and low in price. Such men
will wear a wig until it “goes foxy” (to use a trade phrase which fully
explains my meaning). Some people, as they advance in years, have an
aversion to putting on new things; preferring that to which they have
become accustomed before a fresh, and, it may be, more elaborate
article. This applies to clothing, boots and shoes, hats, &c., and why
not to wigs? Therefore, in executing an order for a person who
habitually wears one, notice every detail associated with that which he
is wearing, and deviate as little as possible therefrom. Younger men,
who lose their hair early in life, require to be much more particular;
they wish to defy the scrutinizing glances of friends and acquaintances,
and, as a consequence, seek to obtain that which is lighter, and of a
more natural appearance. Price, it may be, is of the last consideration,
for nothing, perhaps, would cause them greater uneasiness than to be
told by some indiscreet associate, “Why, Jack, you’ve got a wig on.” Men
sometimes show their ignorance by making such foolish remarks; and I
allude to it here to impress upon the reader how important it is to
acquire taste, good judgment, and proficiency in business. I said just
now that “gentlemen’s wigs admit of considerable variation,” and it is
my intention to describe the manufacture of two kinds, namely, those
which are intended to be worn for an indefinite period, and others that
have to be renewed more frequently. That is to say, the buyer of a wig
at thirty-five shillings would desire it to last for a longer time than
he who purchases a more artistically made article at treble the price,
and renews it every year.
I propose making a wig (in the first instance) of a strong and durable
character, and with woven hair throughout. This description, either with
or without patent crowns, or patent partings and crowns (of which more
hereafter), I prefer making with weft, because I think them less likely
to shrink than if they were knotted. Knotted work for lightness, weft
for durability; at least, this is my opinion of the matter. It will be
for the workman to decide which he considers preferable, and, as I shall
give instructions how to proceed in either case, an opportunity will
thus be afforded him to judge of the correctness of my assertion.
[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
Take a clean mounting-block, and having your measurements properly
written out according to previous instructions, pencil the outline of
the mount thereon. Be very particular in marking details, because the
galloon should follow every line. Having done this accurately, commence
at the back of the block (in the neck) by driving a point or two through
the galloon on the left side of the central line. Keep the galloon
fairly tight with the left hand, following the pencilled markings, and
hammer in points wherever it is necessary to do so. I will now assume
that you have carefully made the proper curves at the ear and temple,
and that you have reached the cut line on the block which is in the
centre of the forehead. You have now to continue the galloon along the
pencil markings on the opposite side of the block until the place from
which you started is reached: drive in another point or two and cut off
the galloon, leaving at least half an inch to spare upon the block. In
foregoing instructions these “free ends” have also been alluded to; you
are to pinch them well together, and, with a needle and silk, sew them
through and through. The mount is now ready for “basting,” but where you
should begin is optional, and depends in a great measure on the style of
mount. In this instance, I should begin in front; next the temples;
then, round about the ears. The engravings which accompany these
descriptions very clearly indicate details.[24] Having completed this
part of the work, you will find that in various places the galloon is
puckered; these you must pinch together, sew through and through, lay
them down quite flat, and a stitch or two will hold them in their
places.
[Illustration: Fig. 39.]
The first important step in making a wig is now accomplished. To be
quite sure, go over your measurements again (I presume that you have
done so before), and satisfy yourself of their exactness. Now, take the
galloon and put a portion of it across the top from front to back; drive
points through as before; cut off and sew neatly. A similar piece is to
extend from ear to ear across the crown, which must be treated in a
similar way. Having done this, take the galloon again, and, passing it
under these cross-pieces, bring the ends to the front, pull it
moderately tight, and sew down _upon_ the galloon. This piece forms, as
it were, a fillet round the head. Make a circle with the galloon, about
two and a-half inches from the outer edges, to form the crown; in this
instance I intend it to be made of weft, which will presently demand no
little cleverness on the part of the wig-maker. This circle will have
many puckers, and they are to be sewn down as before.
I have already alluded to metallic springs, and given an illustration of
one.[25] The instructions then presented to the reader, must be borne in
mind when an order is given for a wig, and also while the mount is
progressing. Indeed, the spring ought to be placed in its appointed
position when the mount is designed upon the block, and it should not
reach (in any instance) to the lower edges of the galloon. The spring is
to be covered as before, put on the block, and sewn in its place. With
regard to other springs, which are used to keep the wig in shape, and
thereby add to the comfort of the wearer, the engravings, together with
previous instructions, will no doubt be found sufficient.
With the foregoing particulars, and the illustrations which accompany
them, the learner can proceed to mount and make a wig. There is, in this
class of work, much scope for ingenuity and thoughtfulness, and a
well-made wig is not only creditable to the maker, but displays an
amount of skilfulness which, to many, is surprising.
There are various descriptions of net used in wig-making to meet all
requirements. For patterns and prices I cannot do better than refer the
reader to either of Messrs. R. Hovenden & Sons’ warehouses. To suit my
own purposes, I find it sufficient to divide the net into two classes,
viz., silk and cotton, of which, I need scarcely add, the latter is the
cheapest; but for strength and durability, as well as neatness, the
former is much to be preferred. The form and size of the mesh is not of
any particular moment if woven hair has to be used; but when the hair is
knotted the case is different, and, as the learner becomes proficient in
his business, he will understand why some particularity in the choice of
net should be exhibited by the worker, more especially when he takes
delight in the excellence of his productions. I have said before that in
manufacturing wigs, the “set” of the hair is all-important, and in
knotting, the formation of the mesh is, doubtless, considered to have a
great deal to do with it.
The mount being divided into sections by means of the galloon which
passes from front to back, side to side, etc., enables the maker to sew
on the net in parts, in preference to one entire whole. It is better to
do this portion of the work in sections, not only because it is
economical, but it is much more convenient. Commence (say) at the neck,
by sewing the net to the innermost edge of the galloon, and you may
arrange to cover one or both of the back divisions. Having sewn it along
the edge securely, draw the net fairly tight, and stitch it to the
nearest edge of the galloon which divides the front from the back. Cut
off, but leave a sufficient margin to “herring-bone” afterwards. The
front part of the wig may be covered in a similar manner. All edges of
the galloon must be sewn to the net. I will now assume that the mount is
covered except the points near the ears, the front peak, and, it may be,
the nape of the neck. The angular, or odd pieces of net, will do
exceedingly well for these. All being sewn to every available spot, the
net tight and firm (not “baggy”—by all means guard against that), and
free edges neatly “herring-boned” to the galloon, the mount is complete.
Of course, the hair selected for the top of the head, about the front
and crown should be longer than it is at the sides and in the neck,
therefore, two or three lengths of hair must be employed. A calculation
ought to be made first, and the appearance, age of wearer, and so forth
taken into consideration. As a rule, the makers of wigs put too much
hair in their manufactures. The lighter they are, the better. Still,
sufficient hair must be used to cover them, and much depends upon the
fineness of the weft. Weaving some thirty yards of weft is, no doubt,
considered a task by many, but unless it is fine throughout, more hair
than necessary is likely to be consumed. An ordinary weaver should do at
least a yard of wig-weft an hour, but professed weavers would do much
more than that. The lengths of hair, then, having been decided upon, and
their apportionment made, the weft should be completed without delay,
before this monotonous part of the job becomes tedious. I said just now
that too much hair is generally used, for I have known instances where
three ounces or more of crop have been employed, in place of half, or
two-thirds of that quantity, which would have suited the job much
better. Here, then, is another cause of the “wiggy” appearance of which
some people complain. Besides a general improvement in the article which
adds considerably to the ease and comfort of the wearer, something is
saved in the cost of material, which must not be lost sight of. True,
the weight of hair depends in a great measure upon its length, but for
ordinary purposes it should not be allowed to exceed two ounces, if
possible.
The weft being completed, begin sewing on behind the ears and in the
neck; for this use the shortest hair. The first row, or, I might say,
rows, of weft should, as a matter of course, be very carefully put on;
indeed, _all_ the margins or edges ought to receive the greatest
attention, for if the hair be raised up and the work critically
examined, a show of galloon would stamp it as bad at the very outset.
Two, if not three rows of weft can be first sewn on before filling in
the angles, and when that is attempted, both sides must be done
uniformly. The angles (or points) behind the ears having been thus
treated, the weft can be continued in lines until the neck part is all
filled in. The sides should now be attended to, and, if the hair be
sufficiently long, the front peak also. Commence sewing on the weft
close to that which is already on the block, and this will be somewhere
behind the ear. Stitch close to the edge of the galloon, and, as before,
make two or three rows; then fill in the two sides. Bear in mind what I
have previously said, which in this connection is worth repeating. It is
this—remember, as a rule, that in gentlemen’s wig-making, the hair
should always be dressed to the face, but this effect cannot be produced
without careful attention to the rows of weft, or “knots.” Therefore,
arrange the weft in such a way as to ensure this desirable result, and
the pressing iron will do the rest. I now assume that all the angular
places have been filled up, and that hair covers the wig up to the
galloon which goes around the head like a band or fillet. You now
require to use the second length of hair, and, probably it will do for
both back and front; if so, go on sewing several rows of weft round and
round at equal distances from each other. Not too close, otherwise the
wig is likely to be heavy, and not very wide apart, or else the work
will be flimsy and unsubstantial. Should you decide upon using longer
hair for the top and sides than you do at the back, then the work must
be done accordingly, by sewing half-way—backwards and forwards. The
other half will have to be filled up in like manner; but, when the wig
is taken off the block, the rows should appear as though they were sewn
on in the way just before mentioned. I will now imagine that you are
approaching the part marked out for the crown, and if you make any
further difference in the lengths of hair to be employed, here you may
begin with the longest, and continue up to the circle reserved for the
crown. The hair used in this place may be of one length only, and can be
sewn round and round until the lower margin of the crown galloon is
covered with one or two rows of weft.
[Illustration: Fig. 40.]
I previously stated that “I propose making a wig (in the first instance)
of a strong and durable character, and with woven hair throughout;” but
I have another object in view besides strength and durability. In all
that I have written about “Board-work,” I have addressed myself chiefly
to apprentices and improvers, and in this particular instance I wished
the young wig-maker to possess himself of a good specimen of his
abilities. Indeed, I am now about setting a task which will try his
ingenuity, and if successful in doing it well, he may justly feel proud
of his work. It is to make a crown according to the illustration given
on the preceding page.
A reference to Fig. 39 shows a wig mount, with the circular space left
for the crown, which is, moreover, divided into four parts. In each of
these divisions the weft (carefully and finely made for the purpose) is
to be sewn according to the diagram Fig. 40. It will be seen from the
covered half that each row of hair overlaps the other, and the greatest
nicety should be exercised in working the exact centre, so as to
conceal, if possible, every sign of weft. This is to be done by adroit
workmanship, assisted by a warm iron and careful pressing.
To make a parting with the weft take a needleful of white cotton, mark
the place for the parting, and the width it is intended to be. Simply
make two straight lines from the crown to the temple, about an inch
apart, and on the side the parting is worn. Having done this, remember
that when sewing on the weft, it is to be turned back for an inch, and
then returned again, so as to follow on in its proper course; these
turnings and re-turnings being necessary (1) to bring the rows closer
together, and (2) to make a division without showing the net foundation.
Of course, a clear and distinct parting must not be attempted in this
case, but just such a division as a hairdresser should be able to make
on a gentleman’s head with a brush only.
All being so far completed, the next thing to do is to _press the work,
but not the hair_, otherwise the curl will disappear. Take a smooth,
warm, pressing iron and begin, say, upon the left side, nearest the
face. This will be at one of the angles, or points. Separate three or
four rows of weft at a time, and of a convenient width, so as to hold
the slip of hair firmly between the two fore-fingers of the left hand.
Damp the weft _only_, with a small sponge, or the finger, at the same
time inclining the curled ends to the face; press, lay the curl flat and
leave it undisturbed. In like manner the whole of the work has to be
treated, and when finishing off at the crown, see that its peculiar
circular turn or inclination is well preserved. Having allowed a little
time to elapse for all to get cold and “set,” cut the basting stitches,
and carefully take the wig off the block. Pull out all loose threads,
examine your work, and see that everything is as it ought to be.
I have said that the block for this kind of work should exceed the
circumference of the head by half an inch or more; this allowance is
necessary, as it insures an easy fit, and provides to a certain extent
for shrinking. Besides, should it prove to be a fault, it is one easily
got over by means of an elastic spring, or springs. These springs are
made of different lengths; but for a gentleman’s wig, one would probably
be two-and-a-half inches long, and it has to go at the back of the neck.
Take the wig, turn the back part inside out, so as to get at the lower
galloon easily. Cut a piece of galloon the same width, and full an inch
longer than the spring. Mark the centre, and sew neatly (both edges) to
the lower galloon, so as to form a casing for the spring. The stitching
should not be continued to the ends. Now take a needle with doubled silk
and fix it to one end of the spring; put the head of the needle
foremost, and pass it through as though it were a bodkin. Draw the
spring into position, and firmly sow first one end to the wig, and
(having previously attached a second needle and silk to the other end)
then the other. The degree of tightness required must be your guide,
both as to the length of spring and amount of elasticity. Turn in the
free ends of the galloon and sew neatly as before, until all is
perfectly covered. Should a second spring be required, it is to be
placed above, in exactly the same way, upon the fillet or band which
goes around the head.
The wig is again to be put on the block, the hair cut _with a razor_, by
a kind of gliding motion (to taper off the ends as much as possible),
brushed and dressed. It is now ready for the wearer, and any other
alterations in regard to trimming, etc., can be done upon the head, so
as to adapt it to the features.