Progress: observations.--Description of the coast of
Borneo.--Account, &c. of a Pangeran.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Meetings
with Rajah Muda Hassim, and conversations.--The Town.--Interchange
of visits and presents--Excursion to Dyak tribes.--Resources and
commercial products.
I Resume Mr. Brooke's Journal, which requires no introductory remark.
"_Aug. 8th._--A cloudy day, preventing us from taking our wished-for
observations. I made a boat-excursion round the two islands. The north
one is somewhat the larger; the southern one, running north and south,
consists of two hills joined by a low and narrow neck of land. The
water between these islands is deep, varying from seven to six fathoms;
but between the smaller one and the main there are rocks and reefs;
and though a passage may exist, it would not be advisable for a vessel
to try it. These two small islands possess all the characteristic
beauties of the clime. Formed of brown granite, with a speck of
white sandy beach, and rising into hills covered with the noblest
timber, wreathed with gigantic creepers. Cream-colored pigeons flit
from tree to tree, and an eagle or two soared aloft watching their
motions. Frigate-birds are numerous; and several sorts of smaller
birds in the bush, difficult to get at. A small species of crocodile,
or alligator, was likewise seen: but we were not fortunate enough
to shoot one. The natives, when asked whether they were alligators,
answered in the negative, calling them crocodiles. The tides appear
to be as irregular as tides usually are in a deep bay. The rise and
fall of the tide is about fifteen feet.
"_9th._--After breakfast this morning took our sights, and at twelve
o'clock the latitude of the smaller Talang Talang and the ship for
a base-line. We yesterday took the same base-line by sound, firing
alternately three guns from the vessel and three from the shore.
"_10th._--A squall from the northward brought in a chopping sea in
the morning. We were favored with a visit from another native party,
but the chief was in every respect inferior to our first acquaintance,
Bandar Dowat.
"_11th Sunday._--Got under weigh early, after a night of torrents of
rain. The breeze being directly out of Lundu river, I stood as near
it as I could, and then bore away for Santobong, in order to reach
Sarawak. From Gunong Gading the coast gradually declines, and forms
two points. The first of these is Tanjong Bloungei, near which, on the
right hand, runs a small river, of the same name. The next point is
Tanjong Datu, which shows prominently from most parts of the bay. From
Tanjong Datu the coast recedes into a bay, and again forms a low point,
which I have christened Tanjong Lundu. The river Lundu disembogues
itself into the bay just beyond the point of the same name; and the
land on its far bank forms a bight of considerable depth. The Lundu is
a barred river with but little water; though, judging from the opening,
it is by no means small. Our pilots inform me at the same time,
however, that within the bar there is considerable depth of water.
"From the Sungei Lundu the land rises behind a wooded beach. The first
hill, which may be said to form the larboard entrance of the river,
is peaked, and called Sumpudin, and near it is a barred river of the
same name. This range of high land runs some distance; and near its
termination is the river Tamburgan. The low coast runs into another
bight; and the first opening after the termination of the high land is
the mouth of the river Seboo. Then comes another river; after which
the land rises into hills, gradually larger, till they terminate in
a round-topped hill, which forms the starboard entrance (going in)
of the Sarawak river.
"This river discharges itself at the east corner of the bay; and its
locality is easily recognized by the highest peak of Santobong, which
towers over its left bank, close to the entrance. A ship rounding Datu
will readily perceive the high land of Santobong, showing like a large
island, with another smaller island at its northern extremity. Both
these, however, are attached to the main: and the northernmost point,
called Tanjong Sipang, is distinguished by two peaks, like horns, one
small, the other larger. Steer from Datu a direct course toward this
high land, and when within a mile and a half or two miles of the shore,
haul in along the land, as there is a sand nearly dry at low water on
the starboard hand, stretching from the shore to the Saddle island,
or Pulo Satang. The leading mark to clear this sand is to bring the
hollow formed between the round hill at the right entrance of the
Sarawak river and the next hill a-head, and as you approach the river's
mouth, steer for a small island close to the shore, called Pulo Karra,
or Monkey Island. These marks will conduct you over a shoal with 1/4
three, the least depth at high water; you will then deepen your water,
and keep away for the low green point on the far side of the river,
edging gradually in; and when you are some distance from the opposite
low point on the port hand, cross the bar in three fathom (high water)
nearly in the center of the river. You must not, however, encroach on
the larboard side. The bar is narrow, and just within is 7 and 7 1/2
fathom, where we are at present anchored. The scenery is noble. On our
left hand is the peak of Santobong, clothed in verdure nearly to the
top; at his foot a luxuriant vegetation, fringed with the casuarina,
and terminating in a beach of white sand. The right bank of the river
is low, covered with pale green mangroves, with the round hill above
mentioned just behind it. Santobong peak is 2050 feet, or thereabouts,
by a rough trigonometrical measurement.
"_12th._--Lay at anchor; took angles and observations, and shot in
the evening without any success. There is a fine species of large
pigeon of a gray color I was desirous of getting, but they were too
cunning. Plenty of wild hogs were seen, but as shy as though they
had been fired at all their lives. When the flood made, dispatched
my gig for Sarawak, in order to acquaint the rajah of my arrival.
"_13th._--Got under weigh, and in the second reach met our gig
returning, followed by a large canoe, with a Pangeran of note to
welcome us. We gave him a salute of five guns; while he, on his part,
assured us of his rajah's pleasure at our arrival, and his own desire
to be of service. With the Pangeran Oula Deen (or Illudeen, anglice
Aladdin), came the rajah's chief writer, his shroff, a renegade Parsee,
a war-captain, and some others, beside a score of followers. They
made themselves much at home, ate and drank (the less scrupulous
took wine), and conversed with ease and liveliness. No difference
can be more marked than between the Hindoostani and the Malay. The
former, though more self-possessed and polished, shows a constraint
in manners and conversation, and you feel that his training has made
him an artificial character. The Malay, on the contrary, concealing as
well the feelings upper-most in his mind, is lively and intelligent,
and his conversation is not confined to a dull routine of unmeaning
compliments.
"_August 13th._--The Pangeran spoke to me of some ship-captain who
was notoriously cruel to his Lascars, and insolent in his language
to the Malays. He was murdered by his crew, and the circumstance was
related to me as though I was to approve the act! 'No Malay of Borneo
(added the Pangeran) would injure a European, were he well treated, and
in a manner suitable to his rank.' And I am sure such a declaration,
in a limited sense, is consonant with all known principles of human
nature, and the action of the passions and feelings.
"Our Pangeran was quite the gentleman, and a manly gentleman too. His
dress was a black velvet jacket, trimmed with gold lace, and trowsers
of green cloth, with a red sarong and kris. He was the only one of
the party armed while aboard. The rest were good, quiet men, and one
or two of them very intelligent. They took their leave of us to get
back to the town at sunset; but the ebb making, returned and stayed
until twelve at night, when the tide turned in their favor. We had
some difficulty in providing beds. The Pangeran slept in my cabin,
and the rest were distributed about on couches or carpets.
"_August 14th._--Got under weigh with the flood, and, favored by a
light breeze, proceeded up the river nearly as far as the town. From
the ignorance of the pilots, however, we grounded on a rock in the
middle of the river in 1 1/2 fathom water, and it took us an hour
to heave the vessel off by the stern. Had the tide been falling, we
should have been in a critical situation, as the rock is dry at low
water; but as it was, we received no damage. Shortly after getting
off, several boats with assistance came from the place, dispatched
in haste by the rajah. The intention was kind, though we needed not
the aid. Being dark, we dropped anchor in 5 1/2 fathom, about 1 1/2
mile from the town.
"_15th._--Anchored abreast of Sarawak at seven, and saluted the rajah
with twenty-one guns, which were returned with eighteen from his
residence. The rajah's own brother, Pangeran Mahammed, then saluted
the vessel with seven guns, which were returned. Having breakfasted,
and previously intimated our intention, we pulled ashore to visit the
great man. He received us in state, seated in his hall of audience,
which outside is nothing but a large shed, erected on piles, but
within decorated with taste. Chairs were placed on each side of the
ruler, who occupied the head seat. Our party were placed on one hand;
on the other sat his brother Mahammed, and Macota and some others of
his principal chiefs, while immediately behind him his twelve younger
brothers were seated.
"The dress of Muda Hassim was simple, but of rich material; and most
of the principal men were well, and even superbly, dressed. His
countenance is plain, but intelligent and highly pleasing, and
his manners perfectly elegant and easy. His reception was kind,
and, I am given to understand, highly flattering. We sat, however,
trammeled with the formality of state, and our conversation did not
extend beyond kind inquiries and professions of friendship. We were
presented with tobacco rolled up in a leaf, each about a foot long,
and tea was served by attendants on their knees. A band played wild and
not unmusical airs during the interview, and the crowd of attendants
who surrounded us were seated in respectful silence. After a visit
of half an hour, we rose and took our leave.
"Sarawak is but an occasional residence of the Rajah Muda Hassim,
and he is now detained here by a rebellion in the interior. On my
inquiring whether _the war_ proceeded favorably, he replied that there
was _no war_, but merely _some child's play among his subjects_. From
what I hear, however, from other quarters, it is more serious than he
represents it; and hints have been thrown out that the rajah wishes
me to stay here _as a demonstration_ to intimidate the rebels. We
shall see.
"The town consists of a collection of mud huts erected on piles, and
may contain about 1500 persons. The residences of the rajah and his
fourteen brothers occupy the greater part, and their followers are
the great majority of the population. When they depart for Borneo (or
Bruni), the remainder must be a very small population, and apparently
very poor. The river affords a few fish; but there is little sign
of cultivation either of rice or other grain. Fowls and goats seem
the only other means of subsistence of these people. The geological
features of the country are easily described. Vast masses of granite
rock are scattered along the coast; for instance, Gunong Poe, Gading,
Santobong, &c. &c., which have evidently at some former period been
detached islands. The spaces between these granite masses is now filled
in with alluvial soil, intersected in every direction with rivers and
streams, and on the low alluvial bank of the Sarawak river stands this
little town. The distance from the sea is about twenty-five miles,
through banks of mangrove and the Nepa palm, until approaching the
town, where some jungle-trees first appear. The breadth is about 100
yards, and the depth six fathoms at low water spring-tides in mid
river opposite the rajah's residence. In some places below, the river
is narrower, and the depths considerable, varying from three to seven
fathoms. The prominent points, however, are shallow, and the rocks
below the town lie on the starboard hand coming up just as the first
houses appear in sight. The larboard hand should then be kept close
aboard. Some other rocks are likewise reported; and in ascending the
stream, though it be generally clear, a vessel _with_ or without a
pilot should have a boat a-head sounding. In the evening I went ashore
suddenly to pay a visit to the rajah, in order, if possible, to break
through the bonds of formality. The great man soon made his appearance,
and received us very well. We talked much of the state of his country
and of ours; but he was very guarded when I spoke of the Dutch. 'He
had no dealings whatever (he said) with them, and never allowed their
vessels to come here, and therefore could not say what they were
like.' We sat in easy and unreserved converse, out of hearing of the
rest of the circle. He expressed great kindness to the English nation;
and begged me to tell him _really_ which was the most powerful nation,
England or Holland, or, as he significantly expressed it, which is the
'cat, and which the rat?' I assured him that England was the mouser,
though in this country Holland had most territory. We took our leave
after he had intimated his intention of visiting us to-morrow morning.
"_16th._--We were ready to receive the rajah after breakfast; but these
affairs of state are not so easily managed. There came two diplomatists
on board to know, in the first place, how many guns we intended to
salute with, and, in the second, whether I would go ashore in my gig,
in order to fetch the chief and his brother off. The latter request
I might have refused, and in a diplomatic light it was inadmissible;
but I readily conceded it, because, in the first place, it was less
troublesome than a refusal; and, in the next, I cared not to bandy
paltry etiquets with a semi-savage; and whatever pride might whisper,
I could not, as an individual traveler, refuse an acknowledgment
of the supremacy of a native prince. I went accordingly. The great
man came on board, and we treated him with every distinction and
respect. Much barbaric state was maintained as he quitted his own
residence. His sword of state with a gold scabbard, his war-shield,
jewel-hilted kris, and flowing _horse_-tails, were separately carried
by the grand officers of state. Bursts of wild music announced his
exit. His fourteen brothers and principal Pangerans surrounded him,
and a number (formidable on the deck of a vessel) covered the rear. He
stayed two hours and a half; ate and drank, and talked with great
familiarity; till the oppressive heat of the crowded cabin caused
me to wish them all to another place. However, he departed at last,
under a salute of twenty-one guns; and the fatigues of the day were
satisfactorily brought to a close. I afterward sent the rajah the
presents I had brought for him, consisting of a silk sarong, some
yards of red cloth and velvet, a pocket-pistol, scissors and knives,
with tea, biscuits, sweetmeats, China playthings, &c. &c. A person
coming here should be provided with a few articles of small importance
to satisfy the crowd of inferior chiefs. Soap, small parcels of tea,
lucifers, writing-paper, a large stock of cigars, biscuits, and knives,
are the best; for, without being great beggars, they seem greatly
to value these trifles, even in the smallest quantity. The higher
class inquired frequently for scents; and for the great men I know no
present which would be more acceptable than a small pier-glass. All
ranks seemed greatly pleased with those aboard; and some of the lower
orders, quite ignorant of the reflection, were continually laughing,
moving, sitting, and rising, to observe the corresponding effect.
"_18th._--In the morning I intimated my intention of paying a visit to
the Pangeran Muda Mahammed; and being apprised of his readiness to see
us, I went ashore to his house. He was not, however, in the room to
receive us; nor, indeed, was I much surprised at this slight, for he
is a sulky-looking, ill-favored savage, with a debauched appearance,
and wanting in the intelligence of his brother the rajah. I seated
myself, however, and remained some time; but the delay exceeding
what I considered the utmost limit of due forbearance, I expressed
to the Pangeran Macota my regret that his compeer was not ready to
receive me, adding that, as I was not accustomed to be kept waiting,
I would return to my vessel. I spoke in the quietest tone imaginable,
rose from my seat, and moved away; but the assembled Pangerans, rising
likewise, assured me it was a mistake; that he was not yet dressed,
and would greatly regret it himself. I repeated that when I visited the
rajah, he received me in the hall. While this brief discussion passed,
the culprit Muda Mahammed appeared and apologized for his remissness,
assuring me that the error was his attendants', who told him I was not
coming for an hour. The excuse of course passed current, though false,
as excuses generally are. I vindicated my independence, not until it
was necessary; and I am well aware that any endeavor of a native to
commit an indirect rudeness, if met with firmness and gentleness,
always recoils on his own head. The routine of the visit resembled
our last--tea, cigars, complimentary conversation and departure. The
Pangeran afterward sent me a present of fowls and goats, and I was
right glad to have it over. Muda Mahammed is the 'own' brother to Muda
Hassim, and next in rank here. As yet I had not made any request to the
rajah to allow me to visit various parts of his country; but thinking
the time to do so was come (the ceremonial of arrival being past),
I sent Mr. Williamson, my interpreter, to express my wish to travel
to some of the Malay towns and into the country of the Dyaks. The
latter request I fully expected, would be evaded, and was therefore
the more pleased when an answer came giving a cheerful consent to my
going among the Dyaks of Lundu, and visiting the towns of Sadung,
Samarahan, &c. At the same time the rajah informed me, that if I
went up the river, he could not be answerable for my safety, as the
rebels were not far distant, and constantly on the watch. Sarebus,
another large Dyak town, he advised me not to visit, as they were
inimical to his government, and a skirmish had lately taken place
between them and some of his subjects.
"_18th, Sunday._--Performed service. In the evening walked ashore,
but the jungle was wet after rain. Every day or night since arriving
it has rained, sometimes in torrents, at others in showers, and the
sky has been so obscured that no observations can be obtained. The
thermometer never ranges above 81 deg., and sometimes stands at 59 deg..
"At twelve at night we were surprised by a boat sent from the rajah,
to say he was taken ill, and wanted some physic. We dispatched our
surgeon, but it was found impossible to admit him into the sacred
precincts of the seraglio, and he returned with the information that
the rajah was asleep.
"_21st._--Our fleet were in readiness before daylight, and by five
o'clock we left Kuching, [3] and dropped down the river. The Pangeran
Illudeen and the Panglima, both in prahus, accompanied us, and with
our long-boat (the Skimalong) formed quite a gay procession. The prahu
of the Pangeran pulled twelve paddles, mounted two brass swivels, and
in all had a crew of about twenty men. The Panglima's boat likewise
carried a gun, and had about ten men; while the Skimalong mounted
an iron swivel, and carried six Englishmen and one of our Singapore
Malays. With this equipment we might be pronounced far superior to
any force of the rajah's enemies we were likely to meet.
"We passed from the Sarawak river into the Morotaba. At the junction
of the two streams the Morotaba is narrow; but at no great distance,
where it meets the Quop, it becomes wider, and in some places more
than half a mile across.
"The river Quop is a fine stream, fully, as far as I could see,
as broad as the Morotaba or Sarawak. Beyond the junction of the
Quop and Morotaba the latter river divides into two branches--the
left-hand one, running to the sea, retains the name of Morotaba,
while the right is called Riam.
"The Riam is a fine stream; at its junction with the Morotaba it
takes that name, as the Morotaba does that of Sarawak where they
join. Low mangrove or Nepa palm banks characterize these streams;
and occasionally slight eminences, with timber, are to be seen. The
highest hill is about 3000 feet high, called Matang, and is at the
point of junction between the Morotaba and Riam.
"The next river on the starboard hand is the Tanjan, a small stream;
and some distance from it, the Kulluong, or Parwheet river, more
properly the continuation of the Riam. On the port hand is a smaller
river, running N. 35 deg. E. We pursued this stream, called Ugong Passer;
and after a hard pull against a strong tide, emerged into the larger
river of Samarahan. The tide was so strong against us that we brought
up for a couple of hours till it slacked, and between four and five
got under weigh again, with the expectation of shortly arriving at
our place of destination. Hour after hour passed, however; the sun
set; the glorious moon rose upon our progress as we toiled slowly but
cheerfully onward. Silence was around, save when broken by the wild
song of the Malay boatmen, responded to by the song of our tars to
the tune of 'Bonnie laddie, Highland laddie.'
"It was such a situation as an excitable mind might envy. The
reflection that we were proceeding up a Borneon river hitherto
unknown, sailing where no European ever sailed before; the deep
solitude, the brilliant night, the dark fringe of retired jungle,
the lighter foliage of the river bank, with here and there a tree
flashing and shining with fireflies, nature's tiny lamps glancing and
flitting in countless numbers and incredible brilliancy! At eleven at
night we reached Samarahan, having been eighteen hours in the boat,
and fifteen at the oars, chiefly against tide. The men were tired,
but cheerful. Indeed, I can give them no praise beyond their merits
for conduct spirited, enduring, and yet so orderly as never to offend
the native inhabitants, or infringe upon their prejudices. A glass of
grog with our supper, and we all soon closed our eyes in comfortable
sleep, such as fatigue alone can bring.
"_22d._--The village of Samarahan consists of a few houses, built,
as usual, upon posts, and standing close to the brink of the river. It
contains from sixty to eighty inhabitants in all, and there is nothing
in its site different from the rest of the country. While here, a boat,
with a Dyak family, came alongside, consisting of a father, his son,
and two daughters. They belonged to the Sibnowan tribe, and had a
'ladang,' or farm, on the Samarahan, toward the sea. The women were
good-looking; one, indeed, handsome, plump, and intelligent. They
were naked to the waist, and ornamented with several cinctures of
brass and colored rattans scraped very thin.
"About ten we quitted Samarahan and proceeded up the river,
stopping only to take a set of sights, and about seven in the evening
reached Sibnow, having previously passed the villages of Rembas and
Siniawan. Siniawan and Sibnow are not above half a mile from each
other, and Rembas not far distant. They are all about the same size,
consisting each of eight or ten houses, and containing sixty or eighty
inhabitants. The river, during its course so far, is characterized by
the same clay-mud bank, evidently an alluvial deposit, without one
rock to be seen. The banks are low, and for the most part cleared a
quarter of a mile or more on either side, but the jungle is rarely
disturbed beyond that distance. Occasionally, however, the scene
is varied by the rich foliage of this jungle, which here and there
kisses the tide as it flows by, and in some spots on the cleared
ground arise clumps of trees that would be the pride of any park
in Europe. Monkeys in great numbers frisked among the branches; and
though unable to shoot them, they amused us often by their grotesque
attitudes and the tremendous leaps they made. On one occasion we
saw as many as twenty throw themselves, one after the other, from
the branch of a high tree into a thick bush full forty feet below,
and not one missed his distance or hold! On our way to Sibnow the
Pangeran had collected a number of men for a deer-hunt. The nets used
for this purpose are formed of rattans strongly wove together, which,
being stretched along the jungle, have nooses of the same material,
at three feet apart, attached to this ridge-rope. Beaters and dogs
then hunt from the opposite quarter, and the deer, in escaping them, is
caught in this trap. A length of several hundred fathoms is stretched
at once, each separate part of thirty or forty fathoms being joined
on as required; and I was told that in this way many deer were taken.
"A heavy rain came on directly after we had brought up, and quickly
dispelled all our preparations for supper, by putting out our fire,
cooling our hot water, and soaking our half-broiled fowls. To a hungry
man such an event is very disastrous; but nothing could exceed the
kindness of our Malay friends. They took us to the best house in the
village, prepared our supper, and provided us with comfortable mats
and pillows to sleep on. Some of our party preferred a bad supper and
wet bed to these accommodations; and, to consummate their discomfort,
they were kept awake a great part of the night by sandflies. Our
lot in the house was more fortunate. We heard the rattling of the
pitiless rain, and commiserated those whose choice or distrust kept
them in the boat. I obtained by this means an excellent opportunity of
seeing a Malay _menage_ in its primitive simplicity. Women, children,
and all their domestic arrangements, were exposed to view. Nothing
appeared to be concealed, nor could anything exceed the simple,
kind-hearted hospitality of the inhabitants. The women gazed upon us
freely; and their children, with the shyness natural to their age,
yet took a glance at the strangers. Never having seen a white man,
their curiosity was naturally excited; but it was never offensive. Our
supper consisted of an excellent curry, and cold venison broiled on a
stick, flavored with a glass of sherry, and concluded by a cigar. We
retired to a dry bed, laying our head on the pillow with as entire
a feeling of security as though reposing in England.
"A description of this Malay dwelling, situated so far up this hitherto
unknown river, may be interesting. Built, like other Malay houses,
on posts, floored with split bamboo, and covered with the leaf of the
Nepa palm, it presents the very _beau ideal_ of fragility, but affords,
at the same time, many advantages, and with a little improvement
might be rendered admirably calculated for a new settler in any warm
country. It is built at very small expense, is remarkably roomy, free
from damp, and weather-proof. The interior of the house consists of
four rooms, the center one large and commodious, the front narrower,
but thirty-six feet in length, a family sleeping-apartment on one side,
and a kitchen at the back. These apartments are divided one from the
other by partitions made of the Nepa; the floors were nicely spread
with strong mats of Dyak manufacture, and on our arrival finer white
mats were laid over these. The entrance of the house is approached
by a steep ladder, which in case of attack is easily removed. The
river Samarahan is admirably calculated for trade, and, indeed,
the same may be said of the whole country, from the great facility
it offers of inland communication. There is no impediment for small
vessels of 200 or 300 tons navigating as far as Sibnow, the stream
being deep and clear of danger. The tides in the river are strong,
but not dangerously so; and, sounding occasionally in every reach,
we never found less water than three fathoms. The distant mountains,
called Bukar (and some other name), are inhabited by Dyaks, and are
said to offer many valuable articles of trade; and we may presume
this true from the riches of the region whence the Sarawak river
takes its rise. It is highly probable, indeed, that both these rivers,
as well as the Quop and others, have their source in the same range,
and will be found to afford the same mineral productions. Tin, the
natives confidently assert, can be procured, and birds' nests in
very considerable quantities. The latter article, I have heretofore
understood, was found only in the vicinity of the sea, whence the
material of which they are composed is gathered; but both here and
at Sarawak the best informed and most intelligent Malays assure me
it is likewise found in the interior, and brought by the Dyaks from
the mountains. The alluvial soil is a rich clay loam. The principal
production at present is rice, of which considerable quantities are
grown on the banks of the river, which accounts for the clearing
of so many miles of the jungle. The mode of cultivation is similar
to what is pursued in Sumatra, and so well described by Marsden. A
small spot is cleared of jungle, and when the soil is exhausted of
its primeval richness, is deserted for another, which again in turn
is neglected, and returns to its wild state. The rice produced is of
excellent quality, and of a smaller grain than the Java rice we have
with us. It is very white and of excellent flavor, and I am inclined
to think is the 'Padi ladang,' or rice grown on dry ground. (For rice,
cultivation of, &c., &c., vide Marsden's _Sumatra_, p. 65.)
"Beside rice, rattans are found in great quantities, and likewise
Malacca canes, but whether of good quality I am not able to say. On my
expressing a wish to see one, a man was dispatched into the jungle,
and returned with one in a few minutes. Bees-wax is another article
to be procured here _at present_ to the amount of thirty or forty
peculs per year from Sibnow, Malacca canes a small ship-load, rattans
in abundance, and any quantity of Garu wood. [4] When we consider the
antimony of Sarawak, beside the other things previously mentioned (to
say nothing of gold and diamonds), we cannot doubt of the richness
of the country: but allowance must be made for the exaggeration of
native statements.
"It must likewise be borne in mind, that these articles are
collected in small quantities in a country thinly populated; and
for the purposes of trade it would be necessary to have a resident
European on the spot to gather the produce of the country ready for
exportation. I have no doubt that permission might be obtained for
an English merchant to reside in the country, and that during the
lifetime of the Rajah Muda Hassim he would be secure from outrage. The
produce of the country might likewise be obtained (at first) at a
low rate in exchange for European goods suited to native tastes. In
addition to the articles I have already mentioned, I must here add
pins, needles, and thread, both gold and white, showy cheap velvets,
yellow, green, and red cloth, Surat silks, cottons, colored beads
(for the Dyaks), nankeens in small quantities, gold-lace of various
qualities, gunpowder, muskets, pistols, flints, &c., &c. The head man
of Sibnow (Orang Kaya), when I asked him why he did not collect the
produce of the country, replied, that the inhabitants were few, and
unless an English merchant was settled at Kuching to buy the things,
it was no use collecting them. The uncertainty of sale, as well as
the very small prices to be obtained from trading Malays, prevents
these people using the advantages of their country, and as yet they
seemed to consider it impossible that vessels would come for them. That
they will one day or other be convinced to the contrary, I am sure;
that it will be soon, I sincerely hope; for I can see no reason, with
a population and rulers so pacific, why a trade highly advantageous
to Singapore should not be opened. I considered our reception as an
additional proof how much better the natives are disposed where they
have had no intercourse with Europeans; how perfectly willing they
are to extend a friendly hospitality when never previously injured or
aggravated; and as the first white men who ever visited their country,
we can bear the most cordial testimony to their unaffected kindness.
"It is true that we were under the protection of the rajah and
accompanied by a Pangeran, and could have insisted on obtaining what
was readily granted. But in case the natives had shown any aversion
or antipathy toward us, it would easily have been observed.
"_23d._--Heavy rain all the morning. Our salt provisions being
exhausted, we procured a goat, which was cooked to last during our
upward passage.
"At 12, the flood making, we quitted Sibnow, and passing through the
same description of country, reached the village of Guntong, consisting
of eight houses, and about sixty or seventy inhabitants. The scattered
population on the banks of the river amounts, however, to an equal,
or probably greater number than in the villages. Beyond Guntong
the country becomes wild, but beautiful, and the river gradually
narrows until not above twenty-five yards wide. The depth, however,
was three fathoms at high water, where we brought up for the night,
about five hours' pull from Guntong. The course of the river is so
tortuous, that in one place two reaches are only divided by a neck
of land five yards across!
"We were now fairly in the bush, and beyond the range of our Pangeran's
knowledge; and I was not therefore surprised (though disappointed)
when he intimated the necessity of returning. 'There was nothing to
see; the river was narrow, rapid, and obstructed by trees; the Dyaks
hostile; the rajah's enemies in ambush.'
"I had nothing to answer, save my desire to proceed; but I felt, at
the same time, bound in honor to return; for to abuse the indulgence
of a native prince on our first excursion would have been a poor way
to obtain his future permission to visit other places.
"I did everything man could do to shake the Pangeran's resolution;
and I believe I should have been successful, had his stock of tobacco
and sirih [5] not been expended. My last resource was resorting to
the means found efficient with most men to induce them to alter
their opinion. I was content to gain a consent to our proceeding
some miles farther up the stream in the morning, and then returning
with the ebb. Nothing during this contention could be more polite
than the Pangeran's manner; for he not only expressed but looked his
regret, and urged on me his responsibility to the rajah. The plea was
unanswerable, though I could not help suspecting the want of tobacco
and betel as the leading motive.
"_24th._--We proceeded, as previously agreed, up the river some
ten or twelve miles farther, during which distance it narrows to
an inconsiderable but deep stream. In many places it was not above
eighteen feet wide, with trees overhanging the water. The depth was
2 1/2 fathoms high water; but being the rainy season, it would not
be deeper than necessary for boats all the year round. In the early
morning the jungle presented a charming scene. Long vistas of noble
trees with a diversity of richest foliage were before us--in some
places overarching the water, and forming a verdant canopy above
our heads. Birds were numerous, and woke the woods with their notes,
but rarely approached within shot. Pigeons in numbers and of several
varieties were seen, but very shy and wild.
"We pushed on ahead of our attendant Pangeran, and pulled up long
after the ebb had made. He had a long chase, and exhausted his
lungs in shouting to us to return; and at last, from pity and
according to promise, I did so. Poor fellow, he was very glad,
fired his swivel-gun, and then brought up for breakfast. I believe
a few hours' progress would have brought us to the vicinity of the
hills and into the country of the Dyaks; and although disappointed
at not being allowed to proceed thither, I nevertheless comfort
myself that we have penetrated a hundred miles up a Borneon river
hitherto unknown--a river likewise (as far as we have yet examined
it) admirably calculated for the purposes of navigation and trade,
and which may at some future period become of importance not only to
the trade of our settlement of Singapore, but even to the commercial
interests of Great Britain. The general character of the Samarahan
is similar to that of other rivers flowing through alluvial soils;
the stream is deep, with muddy banks and bottom, and apparently free
from danger or obstruction. Of course these remarks are not meant
to prevent the necessity of caution in any vessel proceeding up,
as our survey was necessarily very brief; and, like other rivers,
one bank will usually be found deep, the other shallow; which must
be attended to.
"It now remains for us to proceed up the river from its mouth to its
junction with the Ugong Passer; and should it prove to have sufficient
water for vessels on the bar, nothing more will be desired.
"Returning, it took us five hours with a fair tide to Sibnow; the
next ebb we reached Samarahan in three hours, where we stopped for
the night. A heavy rain set in after we brought to, and continued
till morning.
"_25th._--The morning was cold and raw; but cleared up as the sun
rose. At 7 we started, and at a quarter past 10 reached the mouth
of the Ugong Passer and thence into the Riam. Thus it took us 11 1/4
hours, with a strong ebb tide, to pull the distance. We had ascended
the river from the junction of the Ugong Passer. Mr. Murray's plan
of the river will show the distance as taken of each reach, together
with its bearing. The ebb tide lasted us some distance up the Riam;
but the flood making, we entered a small creek, called Tarusongong,
scarce wide enough for the boat to get through, and entirely
overarched with the Nepa palm. The general direction of the creek
was N.W., and we emerged from it into the Boyur river; and pulling
through several reaches, got into the Quop, [6] and thence, after a
while, into the Morotaba; from the Morotaba into the Sarawak river,
reaching the schooner at sunset, all well and happy. Thus ended our
first cruise into the interior of Borneo."