Second Cruise: up the River Lundu.--The Sibnowan Dyaks--Their
Town of Tungong.--Their Physical Proportions, and Words of
their Language.--Their Customs.--Skull-trophies.--Religious
Ceremonies and Opinions.--Their Ornaments.--Appearance of
both Sexes.--Dress and Morals.--Missionary Prospects of
Conversion, and Elevation in the Social Scale.--Government,
Laws, and Punishments.--Dances.--Iron Manufacturing.--Chinese
Settlement.--Excursion continued.
"_Aug. 30th._--Our flotilla, constituted as before, quitted Sarawak
with the ebb tide, and reached Santobong, at the mouth of the river,
soon after the flood had made. We waited for the turn of the tide; and
in wandering along the sand, I had a shot at a wild hog, but unluckily
missed. I likewise saw a deer, very like a red deer, and nearly as
large. The hog I fired at was a dirty white, with a black head, very
unlike in this particular to any wild hogs I have hitherto seen either
in India or Europe; but several young pigs, likewise seen, were black.
"With the flood we weighed anchor, intending to bring up at the mouth
of the Seboo river; but the Skimalong outsailing the prahus, foolishly
parted company, causing me much uneasiness, and keeping the prahus
under weigh all night. I was at this time aboard the Pangeran's boat,
where I usually slept. About 10 on the 31st we reached Lobrek Bay,
and rejoined our boat.
"With the flood tide we proceeded up Lundu river, which has Gunong
Gading on the right hand. The course of the river is very tortuous,
but it appears every where of more than sufficient depth. The Dyak
village of Tungong is situated about eighteen miles from the mouth, and
takes its name from a small stream which joins the Lundu just below,
on the left hand. It was dark when we arrived, and we ran against a
boom formed of large trees run across the river as a defense against
adverse Dyak tribes. We could see nothing of the town, save that it
appeared longer than any we had yet visited.
"_September 1st._--The River Lundu is of considerable breadth, about
half a mile at the mouth, and 150 or 200 yards off Tungong. Tungong
stands on the left hand (going up) close to the margin of the stream,
and is inclosed by a slight stockade. Within this defense there is
_one_ enormous house for the whole population, and three or four
small huts. The exterior of the defense between it and the river is
occupied by sheds for prahus, and at each extremity are one or two
houses belonging to Malay residents.
"The common habitation, as rude as it is enormous, measures 594 feet
in length, and the front room, or _street_, is the entire length of the
building, and 21 feet broad. The back part is divided by mat partitions
into the private apartments of the various families, and of these there
are forty-five separate doors leading from the public apartment. The
widowers and young unmarried men occupy the public room, as only those
with wives are entitled to the advantage of separate rooms. The floor
of this edifice is raised twelve feet from the ground, and the means
of ascent is by the trunk of a tree with notches cut in it--a most
difficult, steep, and awkward ladder. In front is a terrace fifty feet
broad, running partially along the front of the building, formed, like
the floors, of split bamboo. This platform, as well as the front room,
besides the regular inhabitants, is the resort of pigs, dogs, birds,
monkeys, and fowls, and presents a glorious scene of confusion and
bustle. Here the ordinary occupations of domestic labor are carried
on--padi ground, mats made, &c., &c. There were 200 men, women, and
children counted in the room and in front while we were there in the
middle of the day; and, allowing for those abroad and those in their
own rooms, the whole community can not be reckoned at less than 400
souls. Overhead, about seven feet high, is a second crazy story, on
which they stow their stores of food and their implements of labor
and war. Along the large room are hung many cots, four feet long,
formed of the hollowed trunks of trees cut in half, which answer the
purpose of seats by day and beds by night. The Sibnowan Dyaks are a
wild-looking but apparently quiet and inoffensive race. The apartment
of their chief, by name Sejugah, is situated nearly in the center
of the building, and is larger than any other. In front of it nice
mats were spread on the occasion of our visit, while over our heads
dangled about thirty ghastly skulls, according to the custom of these
people. The chief was a man of middle age, with a mild and pleasing
countenance and gentle manners. He had around him several sons and
relations, and one or two of the leading men of his tribe, but the
rest seemed by no means to be restrained by his presence, or to show
him any particular marks of respect: certainly nothing of the servile
obsequiousness observed by the Malays before their prince. Their
dress consists of a single strip of cloth round the loins, with the
ends hanging down before and behind, and a light turban, composed of
the bark of trees, twined round the head, and so arranged that the
front is stuck up somewhat resembling a short plume of feathers.
"Their figures are almost universally well made, showing great activity
without great muscular development; but their stature is diminutive,
as will be seen by the following measurements, taken at random among
them, and confirmed by general observation:
"Sejugah, the chief, height, 5 ft. 1 3/4 in. Head round, 1 ft. 9
in. Anterior portion, from ear to ear, 1 foot; posterior, 9 in.;
across the top, 1 1/4 ft.
"Kalong, the chief's eldest son, height, 5 ft. 2 1/4 in. Anterior
portion of head, 1 ft.; posterior, 8 3/4 in.; across the top,
1 ft., wanting a few lines.
Height
Man from the crowd 5 ft. 1 3/4 in.
Another 5 1 1/2
Another 5 4
Another 4 10
Another 5 3
Another 5 4
"The following is a specimen of their names, and some few words
of their dialect, the only ones I could get not Malayan. The fact,
indeed, appears to be that, from constant intercourse, their Dyak
language is fast fading away; and, while retaining their separate
religion and customs, they have substituted the soft and fluent Malay
for their own harsher jargon. The names are, Jugah or Sejugah, Kalong,
Bunshie, Kontong, Lang, Rantie.
The vocabulary:
hairs, _bok_ (similar to the Lundu Dyaks).
thigh, _pah_.
woman, _indo_.
father, _api_.
sea, _tasiek_.
slave, _ulon_.
spear, _sancho_.
black, _chelum_.
good, _badass_.
bad, _jaie_.
quick, _pantass_.
slow, _bagadie_.
that, _kneah_ (nasal, like _kgneah_).
this, _to_.
to go, _bajali_.
there, _kein_.
come, _jali_
here, _keto_.
come here, _jali keto_.
to give, _bri_.
give all, _bri samonia_ (M).
to bring, _bii_.
bring that, _bii kneah_.
bring here, _bii keto_.
"The corruptions of the Malay are _langan_ for _tangon_, arm; _ai_
for _ayer_, water; _menua_ for _benua_, country; _komah_ for _rumah_,
house; _besi_ for _besar_, great.
"Like the rest of the Dyaks, the Sibnowans adorn their houses with
the heads of their enemies; but with them this custom exists in a
modified form; and I am led to hope that the statements already made
public of their reckless search after human beings, _merely_ for the
purpose of obtaining their heads, will be found to be exaggerated, if
not untrue; and that the custom elsewhere, as here and at Lundu, will
be found to be more accordant with our knowledge of other wild tribes,
and to be regarded merely as a triumphant token of valor in the fight
or ambush; similar, indeed, to the scalps of the North American Indian.
"Some thirty skulls were hanging from the roof of the apartment; and I
was informed that they had many more in their possession; all, however,
the heads of enemies, chiefly of the tribe of Sarebus. On inquiring,
I was told that it is indispensably necessary a young man should
procure a skull before he gets married. When I urged on them that the
custom would be more honored in the breach than the observance, they
replied that it was established from time immemorial, and could not
be dispensed with. Subsequently, however, Sejugah allowed that heads
were very difficult to obtain now, and a young man might sometimes
get married by giving presents to his lady-love's parents. At all
times they warmly denied ever obtaining any heads but those of their
enemies; adding, they were bad people, and deserved to die.
"I asked a young unmarried man whether he would be obliged to get a
head before he could obtain a wife. He replied, 'Yes.' 'When would
he get one?' 'Soon.' 'Where would he go to get one?' 'To the Sarebus
river.' I mention these particulars in detail, as I think, had their
practice extended to taking the head of any defenseless traveler,
or any Malay surprised in his dwelling or boat, I should have wormed
the secret out of them.
"The men of this tribe marry but one wife, and that not until they have
attained the age of seventeen or eighteen. Their wedding ceremony is
curious; and, as related, is performed by the bride and bridegroom
being brought in procession along the large room, where a brace of
fowls is placed over the bridegroom's neck, which he whirls seven
times round his head. The fowls are then killed, and their blood
sprinkled on the foreheads of the pair, which done, they are cooked,
and eaten by the new-married couple _alone_, while the rest feast
and drink during the whole night.
"Their dead are put in a coffin, and buried; but Sejugah informed
me that the different tribes vary in this particular; and it would
appear they differ from their near neighbors the Dyaks of Lundu.
"Like these neighbors, too, the Sibnowans seem to have little or no
idea of a God. They offer prayers to Biedum, the great Dyak chief of
former days. Priests and ceremonies they have none; the thickest mist
of darkness is over them: but how much easier is it to dispel darkness
with light than to overcome the false blaze with the rays of truth!
"The manners of the men of this tribe are somewhat reserved, but
frank; while the women appeared more cheerful, and more inclined to
laugh and joke at our peculiarities. Although the first Europeans
they had ever seen, we were by no means annoyed by their curiosity:
and their honesty is to be praised; for, though opportunities were
not wanting, they never on any occasion attempted to pilfer any
thing. Their color resembles the Malay, and is fully as dark; and
the cast of their countenance does not favor the notion that they are
sprung from a distinct origin. They never intermarry with the Malays,
so as to intermingle the two people, and the chastity of their women
gives no presumption of its otherwise occurring. Their stature, as I
have before remarked, is diminutive, their eyes are small and quick,
their noses usually flattened, and their figures clean and well
formed, but not athletic. Both sexes generally wear the hair long
and turned up, but the elder men often cut it short. As is natural,
they are fond of the water, and constantly bathe; and their canoes
are numerous. I counted fifty, besides ten or twelve small prahus,
which they often build for sale to the Malays, at a very moderate
price indeed. The men wear a number of fine cane rings, neatly worked
(which we at first mistook for hair), below the knee or on the arm, and
sometimes a brass ring or two; but they have no other ornaments. The
ears of a few were pierced, but I saw nothing worn in them except a
roll of thin palm-leaf, to prevent the hole closing. The women are
decidedly good-looking, and far fairer than the men; their figures
are well shaped, and remarkable for their _embonpoint_. The expression
of their countenance is very good-humored, and their condition seems
a happy one. Their dress consists of a coarse stuff, very scanty
(manufactured by the Sakarran Dyaks), reaching from the waist to the
knee; around the waist they have rings of ratan, either black or red,
and the loins are hung round with a number of brass ornaments made by
their husbands. Above the waist they are entirely naked, nor do they
wear any covering or ornament on the head. They have a few bracelets
of brass, but neither ear-rings nor nose-rings; and some, more lucky
than the rest, wear a necklace of beads. They prefer the smallest
Venetian beads to the larger and more gaudy ones of England. The labor
of the house, and all the drudgery, falls on the females. They grind
the rice, carry burdens, fetch water, fish, and work in the fields;
but though on a par with other savages in this respect, they have many
advantages. They are not immured; they eat in company with the males;
and, in most points, hold the same position toward their husbands and
children as European women. The children are entirely naked; and the
only peculiarity I observed is filing their teeth to a sharp point,
like those of a shark. The men marry but one wife, as I have before
observed. Concubinage is unknown; and cases of seduction or adultery
very seldom arise. Even the Malays speak highly of the chastity of the
Dyak women; yet they are by no means shy under the gaze of strangers,
and used to bathe before us in a state of nudity.
"That these Dyaks are in a low condition there is no doubt; but,
comparatively, theirs is an innocent state, and I consider them
capable of being easily raised in the scale of society. The absence
of all prejudice regarding diet, the simplicity of their characters,
the purity of their morals, and their present ignorance of all forms
of worship and all idea of future responsibility, render them open to
conviction of truth and religious impression. Yet, when I say this,
I mean, of course, only when their minds shall have been raised by
education; for without previous culture I reckon the labors of the
missionary as useless as endeavoring to read off a blank paper. I
doubt not but the Sibnowan Dyaks would readily receive missionary
families among them, provided the consent of the Rajah Muda Hassim
was previously obtained. That the rajah would consent I much doubt;
but if any person chose to reside at Tungong, for the charitable
purpose of leading the tribe gradually, by means of education, to
the threshold of Christianity, it would be worth the asking, and I
would exert what influence I possess with him on the occasion. I feel
sure a missionary would be safe among them, as long as he strictly
confined himself to the gentle precepts and practice of his faith;
he would live abundantly and cheaply, and be exposed to no danger
except from the incursion of hostile tribes, which must always be
looked for by a sojourner amid a Dyak community.
"I must add, that this day, when so many of my friends are destroying
partridges, I have had my gun in my hand, to procure a few specimens.
"_2d._--To continue my account of the Sibnowan Dyaks. I made particular
inquiry about the superstition stated to exist regarding birds,
and the omens said to be drawn from their flight; but I could trace
no vestige of such a belief, nor did they seem at all acquainted
with its existence. The government of the Sibnowans may be called
patriarchal. The authority of the chief appears limited within very
narrow bounds; he is the leader in war, and the dispenser of the laws;
but possesses no power of arbitrary punishment, and no authority for
despotic rule. The distinction between Sejugah and the lowest of his
tribe is not great, and rather a difference of riches than of power. A
few ornamented spears, presented by the Malays, seem his only insignia
of office; and these were never displayed in our presence, save in the
dance. The chiefship would appear to be elective, and not hereditary;
but I could not distinctly understand whether the appointment rested
with the rajah or the tribe. The former claims it; but the latter
did not speak as though his right were a matter of necessity or
certainty. On asking Kalong, the eldest son of Sejugah (a young man
of twenty years of age, active, clever, and intelligent), whether he
would succeed his father, he replied, he feared he was not _rich _
enough; but two or three of the tribe, who were present, asserted
that he would be made chief. The Rajah Muda Hassim told me that the
only hold he had on the Dyaks was through the chief and his family,
who were attached to him; but that the tribe at large cared nothing
for the Malays. I can easily believe this, as any ill treatment or
cruelty directed against a Dyak community would soon drive them beyond
the power and the territory of the prince. This is the best safeguard
of the Dyaks; and the Malays are well aware that a Dyak alliance must
be maintained by good treatment. They are called subjects and slaves;
but they are subjects at pleasure, more independent and better used
than any Malay under his native prince.
"The laws of this Dyak tribe are administered by the chief and the two
principal men. They have no fixed code, nor any standard of punishment,
each case of crime being judged according to its enormity. In the
event of murder in their own tribe, the murderer suffers death by
decapitation, _provided he be in fault_. Theft is punished by fine,
and adultery (stated as a heinous offense) by severe beating and heavy
mulct [7]. Other crimes are, in like manner, punished by fine and
beating--one or both, according to their various shades of evil. The
latter varies greatly in degree, sometimes being inflicted on the
head or arm, with a severity which stops short only of death. The
arm is often broken under this infliction; so, according to their
representation, it is a risk to be dreaded and avoided.
"Slavery holds among them; and, as among the Malays, a debtor is
reduced to this state until his debt be discharged. Children are
likewise bought, and must be considered as slaves.
"In the evening I requested Sejugah to collect his tribe, and to show
me their dances and musical instruments. They readily consented,
and about nine at night we went to witness the exhibition. The
musical instruments were, the tomtom, or drum, and the Malayan gong;
which were beat either slow or fast, according to the measure of
the dance. The dances are highly interesting, more especially from
their close resemblance, if not identity, with those of the South Sea
Islanders. Two swords were placed on the mat, and two men commenced
slowly, from the opposite extremities, turning the body, extending
the arms, and lifting the legs, in grotesque but not ungraceful
attitudes. Approaching thus leisurely round and round about, they at
length seize the swords, the music plays a brisker measure, and the
dancers pass and repass each other, now cutting, now crossing swords,
retiring and advancing, one kneeling as though to defend himself from
the assaults of his adversary; at times stealthily waiting for an
advantage, and quickly availing himself of it. The measure throughout
was admirably kept, and the frequent turns were simultaneously made
by both dancers, accompanied by the same eccentric gestures. The
effect of all this far surpasses the impression to be made by a
meager description. The room partially lighted by damar torches;
the clang of the noisy instruments; the crowd of wild spectators;
their screams of encouragement to the performers; the flowing hair and
rapid evolutions of the dancers, formed a scene I wish could have been
reduced to painting by such a master as Rembrandt or Caravaggio. The
next dance was performed by a single person, with a spear, turning
like the last; now advancing, retiring, poising, brandishing, or
pretending to hurl his weapon. Subsequently we had an exhibition with
the sword and shield, very similar to the others, and only differing
in the use of the weapons; and the performance was closed by a long
and animated dance like the first, by two of the best performers.
"The dance with the spear is called Talambong; that with the sword,
Mancha. The resemblance of these dances to those of the South Seas is,
as I have observed, a remarkable and interesting fact, and one of many
others which may, in course of time, elucidate the probable theory that
the two people are sprung from a common source. The Malays of Sarawak,
and other places in the neighborhood of the Dyak tribes, dance these
dances; but they are unknown to Borneo Proper, and the other Malay
islands; and although the names may be given by the Malays, I think
there is no doubt that the dances themselves belong to the Dyaks:
a correcter judgment can be formed by a better acquaintance with
other Dyak tribes.
"The household utensils in use here are few and simple. The mode
of grinding padi clear of the husk is through the trunk of a tree
cut into two parts, the upper portion being hollow, the lower solid;
small notches are cut where the two pieces fit, and handles attached
to the upper part, which being filled with padi and kept turning round,
the husk is detached and escapes by the notches.
"The Dyaks, as is well known, are famous for the manufacture of
iron. The forge here is of the simplest construction, and formed
by two hollow trees, each about seven feet high, placed upright,
side by side, in the ground; from the lower extremity of these, two
pipes of bamboo are led through a clay-bank, three inches thick,
into a charcoal fire; a man is perched at the top of the trees,
and pumps with two pistons (the suckers of which are made of cocks'
feathers), which being raised and depressed alternately, blow a
regular stream of air into the fire. Drawings were taken of these
and other utensils and instruments. The canoes are not peculiar,
but the largest prahus (some forty feet long, with a good beam)
are constructed, in the first place, exactly like a small canoe:
a single tree is hollowed out, which forms the keel and kelson,
and on this foundation the rest of the prahu is built with planks,
and her few timbers fastened with ratans. A prahu of fifty feet long,
fitted for service, with oars, mast, attops, &c., was ordered by the
Panglima Rajah while we were with him, which, completed, was to cost
thirty reals, or sixty Java rupees, or L6 English. During the course
of the day we ascended the river to visit the settlement of Chinese
lately established here. It is situated about two and a half miles
up the river, on the same side as Tungong, and consists of thirty men
(real Chinese), and five women of the mixed breed of Sambas. Nothing
can be more flourishing than this infant settlement, and I could hardly
credit their statement that it had only been formed between four and
five months. The soil they represented as most excellent, and none
are better judges; many acres were cleared and under cultivation;
rice, sirih, sweet potatoes (convolvulus), Indian corn, &c., &c.,
were growing abundantly; and they were able to supply us with seven
pecul, or 933 pounds of sweet potatoes, without sensibly diminishing
their crop. They showed me samples of birds' nests, bees' wax, garu
wood (lignum aloes), and ebony, collected in the vicinity, chiefly
from Gunong Gading. Several peculs of birds' nests and bees' wax, and
the wood in large quantity, could _now_ be brought to market; and no
doubt, when demand stimulates industry, the quantities would greatly
increase. The Dyaks, they told me, collected ratans, and likewise
canes, which are plentiful. The mixed breed of the Chinese with the
Malay or Dyak are a good-looking and industrious race, partaking
much more of the Chinese character than that of the natives of this
country. This mainly arises from education and early-formed habits,
which are altogether Chinese; and in religion and customs they likewise
follow, in a great measure, the paternal stock. The race are worthy
of attention, as the future possessors of Borneo. The numbers of this
people can not be stated, but it must amount to many thousand persons:
3000 were said to be on their way to the Borneon territory.
"The head man of this settlement, a Chinese of Quantung, or Canton,
but long resident in the vicinity of Sambas, gave me some valuable
information respecting the Sarawak mountains. He had, with a
considerable party of his countrymen, been employed there at the
gold-mines, and he spoke of them as abundant, and of the ore as
good. Tin they had not found, but thought it existed. Antimony ore was
to be had in any quantities, and diamonds were likewise discovered. I
mention these facts as coming from an intelligent Chinese, well able
from experience to judge of the precious metals, and the probability
of their being found.
"_3d._--Night, as usual, set in with torrents of rain, which lasted
until the morning: the days, however, are fine, though cloudy. Got
sights in the afternoon; and, leaving our Dyak friends, we dropped
down to the mouth of the river, where we slept.
"_4th._--At 2 A.M. got under weigh for the Samatan river, which we
reached at 8 A.M. I had been given to understand that the Lundu and
Sibnowan Dyaks were to be found on this river; but on arriving, I
was informed we must proceed to Seru, where we should see plenty of
Dyaks. I accordingly started immediately after breakfast, and reached
Seru after mid-day. Here we found a small Malay fishing village, with
two or three stray Dyaks of the Sibnowan tribe; and, on inquiring, we
were told by them that their country was far away. Being convinced that
the Pangeran had dragged me all this distance to answer some purpose
of his own, I re-embarked on the instant, and set off on my return
to Lundu, indignant enough. However, I had the poor satisfaction of
dragging them after me, and making them repent their trick, which I
believe was nothing else than to visit the island of Talang Talang for
turtles' eggs. We were pretty well knocked up by the time we reached
Samatan, having been pulling thirteen hours, the greater part of the
time under a burning sun.
"The Samatan river, like the others, is inclosed in a bay choked with
sand: the boat-passage is on the right-hand side, going in near Point
Samatan. The sands are mostly dry at low water, and stretch out a
considerable distance. There is a fishing station here, though not so
large as at Seru, and the fish at both places are very plentiful, and
are salted for exportation to Sambas, and along their own coast. Seru
is a shallow creek; the village may consist of 50 or 60 inhabitants,
and the sands stretch a long way out. We thus lost two days, through
the cunning of our Malay attendant; and the only advantage gained is
being enabled to fill up the details of our survey of this bay.
"_5th._--The day consumed returning along the coast to the Lundu,
and we did not reach Tungong till late.
"_6th._--Remained at Tungong. Every impediment was thrown in my way to
prevent my reaching the Lundu Dyaks; the distance was great, the tribe
small and unsettled, there was little probability of finding them,
&c. I would, however, have gone; but another cause had arisen of a more
serious nature. My feet, from the heat of the sun, musqueto-bites, and
cuts (for I foolishly went without shoes that unlucky day to Seru),
had become so painful and inflamed that I felt great doubt whether,
if I walked in pain to Lundu, I could come back again. With the best
grace I could, I yielded the point; with a vow, however, never to
have the same Pangeran again. I did _manage_ to be civil to him,
from policy alone. He was superfluously kind and obliging.
"_7th._--Left Tungong on our return to the vessel, and brought-to
for the night at Tanjong Siri. In the evening I walked along the fine
sandy beach as far as the entrance of the Sumpudin river. We saw many
wild hogs; and on one occasion I was able to get within twenty yards
of some ten of them together, among some large drift-wood. Just as I
was crawling over a tree and balancing, I found myself confronted by
these animals; but they were out of sight almost before I could cock
my gun and fire. They were of a large size, and most of them we saw
during the evening either dirty white, or white and black. At night,
after we had retired to our quarters in the Pangeran's boat, she filled
with water, and was near going down. The first intimation we had of
it was the water wetting our mats on which we were sleeping. She was
beached and baled out, and a hand kept baling all night, as they had
laden her so deep that she leaked considerably.
"_8th._--In the morning we got our anchor at daylight, and
breakfasted on the island of Sumpudin. There are deer, hogs, and
pigeons on Sumpudin Island; but what was more interesting to me was,
the discovery of the wild nutmeg-tree in full flower, and growing to
the height of twenty or thirty feet. The nutmegs lay in plenty under
the trees, and are of considerable size, though elongated in shape,
and tasteless, as usual in the wild sorts. While the East India Company
were sending Captain Forest from their settlement of Balambangan as
far as New Guinea in search of this plant, how little they dreamed
of its flourishing so near them on the island of Borneo! The soil on
which they grow is a yellowish clay, mixed with vegetable mould. I
brought some of the fruit away with me. After breakfast, a breeze
springing up, we sailed to the mouth of the Sarawak river, waited
for the tide, and pushed on for the vessel, getting aboard about
half past three in the morning. Our Malay attendants were left far,
far behind, and there is little chance of their being here to-morrow,
for their boats sail wretchedly."