Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
produced from scanned images of public domain material
from the Google Print project.)
THE EXPEDITION TO BORNEO
OF
H. M. S. DIDO
FOR
THE SUPPRESSION OF PIRACY:
WITH EXTRACTS FROM
THE JOURNAL OF JAMES BROOKE, ESQ., OF SARAWAK,
(Now Agent for the British Government in Borneo).
BY
CAPTAIN THE HON. HENRY KEPPEL, R. N.
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
82 CLIFF STREET.
1846.
TO
THE EARL OF ALBEMARLE.
My dear Father,
You could scarcely have anticipated, from my profession, the dedication
of a book in testimony of my gratitude and affection; but, having had
the good fortune to acquire the friendship of Mr. James Brooke, and
to be intrusted by him with a narrative of his extraordinary career
in that part of the world where the services of the ship I commanded
were required, I am not without a hope that the accompanying pages
may be found worthy of your approval, and not altogether uninteresting
to my country.
I am, my dear father,
Your affectionate son,
Henry Keppel.
Droxford, January, 1846.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
The visit of her majesty's ship Dido to Borneo, and her services
against the pirates, occupy comparatively so small a portion of this
volume, that some excuse may be necessary for its leading title.
It was only by undertaking to make the account of them part of the
narrative, that I could prevail upon my friend Mr. Brooke to intrust
me with his Journal for any public object; and when I looked at his
novel and important position as a ruler in Borneo, and was aware how
much of European curiosity was attached to it, I felt it impossible
not to consent to an arrangement which should enable me to trace the
remarkable career through which he had reached that elevation. I hope,
therefore, to be considered as having conquered my own disinclination
to be the relater of events in which I was concerned, in order to
overcome the scruples which he entertained against being the author
of the autobiographical sketch, embracing so singular a portion of
his life, which I have extracted from the rough notes confided to me.
That his diffidence in this respect was groundless will, I trust,
be apparent from these pages, however indifferently I may have
executed my unusual task, during a long homeward sea-voyage; and,
from the growing interest which has arisen throughout the country for
intelligence on the subject of Borneo and the adjacent archipelago,
I venture also to indulge the belief that the general information
will be deemed no unfit adjunct to the story of personal adventure.
ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION.
The text of this edition has been carefully revised, and has undergone
numerous verbal alterations; some portions of it have been transposed,
and a few additions have been made to the work. [In the American
edition, a few pages of matter, of no interest to American readers,
have been omitted from the Appendix.]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The Chinese War having terminated, Captain Keppel in H.M.S. Dido
appointed to command of the Straits station.--Meeting with
Mr. Brooke.--Sketch of his life.--Mr. Brooke's outward voyage in the
Royalist.--Touch at Singapore.--Arrival off the coast of Borneo.--Land
at the island of Talang Talang.--Intercourse with the Bandar _Page_ 1
CHAPTER II.
Progress: observations.--Description of the coast of Borneo.--Account,
&c. of a Pangeran.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Meetings with Rajah Muda
Hassim, and conversations.--The Town.--Interchange of visits and
presents.--Excursion to Dyak tribes.--Resources and commercial
products 14
CHAPTER III.
Second Cruise: up the River Lunda.--The Sibnowan Dyaks.--Their
Town of Tungong.--Their Physical Proportions, and Words of their
Language.--Their Customs.--Skull-trophies.--Religious Ceremonies
and Opinions.--Their Ornaments.--Appearance of both Sexes.--Dress
and Morals.--Missionary Prospects of Conversion, and Elevation in
the Social Scale.--Government, Laws, and Punishments.--Dances.--Iron
Manufacturing.--Chinese Settlement.--Excursion continued 32
CHAPTER IV.
Renewed intercourse with the Rajah.--Prospects of
trade.--Ourang-outang, and other animals.--The two sorts of
mias.--Description of the Rajah, his suite, and Panglimas, &c.--The
character of the natives.--Leave Sarawak.--Songi Dyaks.--Visit Seriff
Sahib.--Buyat tongue.--Attack by pirates.--Sail for Singapore 45
CHAPTER V.
Summary of information obtained during this
visit to Borneo.--Geographical and topographical
observations.--Produce.--Various Dyak tribes.--Natural
history.--Language.--Origin of Races.--Sail from
Singapore.--Celebes.--Face of the country.--Waterfall 59
CHAPTER VI.
Dain Matara, the Bugis.--Excursions in Celebes.--Dispute
with the Rajah's son-in-law.--Baboon shot.--Appearance of the
country.--Visit the Resident.--Barometrical observations.--The
Bugis.--Geography.--Coral reefs.--Visit the Rana of
Lamatte.--Population and products of the country 72
CHAPTER VII.
Mr. Brooke's second visit to Sarawak.--The civil war.--Receives a
present of a Dyak boy.--Excursion to the seat of war.--Notices of
rivers, and settlements on their banks.--Deaths and burials.--Reasons
for and against remaining at Sarawak.--Dyak visitors.--Council of
war.--Why side with the Rajah.--Mode of constructing forts.--State
of enemy's and Rajah's forces.--Conduct of the war 87
CHAPTER VIII.
Appearance of the country.--Progress of the rebel war.--Character of
the Sow and Singe Dyaks.--Their belief in augury.--Ruinous effects of
protracted warfare.--Cowardice and boasting of the Malays.--Council
of war.--Refuse to attack the enemy's forts.--Rebels propose to
treat.--The Malays oppose.--Set out to attack the rebels, but
frustrated by our allies.--Assailed by the rebels.--Put them to
flight.--Treat with them.--They surrender.--Intercede with the Rajah
for their lives.--Renewed treachery of the Malays 100
CHAPTER IX.
Retrospect of Mr. Brooke's proceedings and prospects.--Visit of
a pirate fleet.--Intercourse with the chief leaders, and other
characteristic incidents.--War dances.--Use of opium.--Story of
Si Tundo.--Preparations for trading.--Conditions of the cession of
Sarawak 119
CHAPTER X.
Obstacles in the way of coming to a satisfactory conclusion with Muda
Hassim.--The law of force and reprisal considered.--Capabilities of
Sarawak.--Account of Sarebus and Sakarran pirates.--Excursion up the
river.--Visit to the Singe Dyaks.--Description of Mr. Brooke's house at
Sarawak.--Circumstances relating to the wreck off Borneo Proper 135
CHAPTER XI.
Return of the Royalist from Borneo Proper with intelligence of the
sufferers from the wreck of the Sultana.--Effect of the arrival
of the Diana on the negotiations for their release.--Outrage and
oppression of Macota.--Fate of the Sultana and her crew.--Mr. Brooke
made Rajah of Sarawak.--Liberation of rebel prisoners.--State of Dyak
tribes.--Court of justice opened.--Dyak burials, and respect for the
dead.--Malay cunning and treachery 151
CHAPTER XII.
Reflections on the new year.--The plundered village, and other
wrongs.--Means for their suppression.--The new government proceeds
to act.--The constitution.--Preparations for an expedition
against the Sea Dyaks.--Form of a treaty.--Wreck of the Viscount
Melbourne.--Administration of justice.--Difficulties and dangers.--Dyak
troubles.--Views and arrangements of the Chinese.--Judicial
forms.--Wrongs and sufferings of the Lundus 164
CHAPTER XIII.
Ascent of the left-hand river to the Stabad.--Remarkable cave in
the Tubbang.--Diamond works at Suntah.--Return.--Infested by Dyak
pirates.--A meeting of prahus, and fight.--Seriff Sahib's treatment of
the Suntah Dyaks.--Expedition against the Singe.--Their invasion of
the Sigos, and taking heads.--The triumph over these trophies.--Arms
and modes of war.--Hot and cold council-houses.--Ceremonies in the
installation of the Orang Kaya Steer Rajah.--Meeting of various Dyak
tribes.--Hostile plans of Seriff Sahib, and their issue.--Resolves
to proceed to Borneo Proper 183
CHAPTER XIV.
Visit of Captain Elliott.--Mr. Brooke sails for Borneo
Proper.--Arrival.--Visited by leading men.--Condition of
the country.--Reception by the Sultan.--Objects in view.--The
different chiefs, and communications with them.--The Sultan and
his Pangerans.--Objects of the visit accomplished.--Return to
Sarawak.--Ceremonies of the cession.--Sail for Singapore 199
CHAPTER XV.
Captain Keppel's voyage in the Dido with Mr. Brooke to Sarawak.--Chase
of three piratical prahus.--Boat expedition.--Action with the
pirates, and capture of a prahu.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Mr. Brooke's
reception.--Captain Keppel and his officers visit the Rajah.--The
palace and the audience.--Return royal visit to the Dido.--Mr. Brooke's
residence and household.--Dr. Treacher's adventure with one of the
ladies of Macota's harem.--Another boat affair with the pirates,
and death of their chief 213
CHAPTER XVI.
The Rajah's letter to Captain Keppel, and his reply.--Prepares for
an expedition against the Sarebus pirates.--Pleasure excursion up the
river.--The Chinese settlement.--The Singe mountain.--Interior of the
residences.--Dyak festival of Maugut.--Relics.--Sporting.--Return to
Sarawak.--The expedition against Sarebus.--State and number of the
assailing force.--Ascent of the river.--Beauty of the scenery 228
CHAPTER XVII.
Ascent of the river to Paddi.--Town taken and burnt.--Narrow
escape of a reinforcement of friendly Dyaks.--Night-attack by the
pirates.--Conference: they submit.--Proceed against Pakoo.--Dyak
treatment of dead enemies.--Destruction of Pakoo, and submission
of the pirates.--Advance upon Rembas.--The town destroyed: the
inhabitants yield.--Satisfactory effects of the expedition.--Death
of Dr. Simpson.--Triumphant return to Sarawak 242
CHAPTER XVIII.
Captain Keppel sails for China.--Calcutta.--The Dido ordered to
Borneo again.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Effect of her presence at
Sarawak.--Great improvements visible.--Atrocities of the Sakarran
pirates.--Mr. Brooke's letter.--Captain Sir E. Belcher's previous
visit to Sarawak in the Samarang.--Coal found.--Second letter from the
Rajah Muda Hassim.--Expedition against the Sakarran pirates.--Patusen
destroyed.--Macota remembered, and his retreat burnt.--Further
fighting, and advance.--Ludicrous midnight alarm 257
CHAPTER XIX.
Seriff Muller's town sacked.--Ascend the river in pursuit of
the enemy.--Gallant exploit of Lieutenant Wade.--His death and
funeral.--Interesting anecdote of him.--Ascend the Sakarran
branch.--Native boats hemmed in by pirates, and their crews
slaughtered to a man.--Karangan destroyed.--Captain Sir E. Belcher
arrives in the Samarang's boats.--Return to Sarawak.--New expedition
against Seriff Sahib and Jaffer.--Macota captured.--Flight of Seriff
Sahib.--Conferences.--Seriff Jaffer deposed.--Mr. Brooke's speech in
the native tongue.--End of the expedition, and return to Sarawak.--The
Dido sails for England 274
CHAPTER XX.
Later portion of Mr. Brooke's Journal.--Departure of Captain Keppel,
and arrival of Sir E. Belcher.--Mr. Brooke proceeds, with Muda
Hassim, in the Samarang to Borneo.--Labuan examined.--Returns to
Sarawak.--Visit of Lingire, a Sarebus chief.--The Dyaks of Tumma
and Bandar Cassim.--Meets an assembly of Malays and Dyaks.--Arrival
of Lingi, as a deputation from the Sakarran chiefs.--The Malay
character.--Excursion up the country.--Miserable effects of excess
in opium-smoking.--Picturesque situation of the Sow village of
Ra-at.--Nawang.--Feast at Ra-at.--Returns home.--Conferences with
Dyak chiefs 290
CHAPTER XXI.
Mr. Brooke's memorandum on the piracy of the Malayan Archipelago.--The
measures requisite for its suppression, and for the consequent
extension of British commerce in that important locality 302
CHAPTER XXII.
Arrival of Captain Bethune and Mr. Wise.--Mr. Brooke appointed
her Majesty's Agent in Borneo.--Sails for Borneo Proper.--Muda
Hassim's measures for the suppression of piracy.--Defied by
Seriff Houseman.--Audience of the Sultan, Muda Hassim, and the
Pangerans.--Visit to Labuan.--Comparative eligibility of Labuan and
Balambangan for settlement.--Coal discovered in Labuan.--Mr. Brooke
goes to Singapore and visits Admiral Sir T. Cochrane.--The
upas-tree.--Proceeds with the Admiral to Borneo Proper.--Punishment
of Pangeran Usop.--The battle of Malludu.--Seriff Houseman obliged
to fly.--Visit to Balambangan.--Mr. Brooke parts with the Admiral,
and goes to Borneo Proper.--An attempt of Pangeran Usop defeated.--His
flight, and pursuit by Pangeran Budrudeen.--Triumphant reception of
Mr. Brooke in Borneo.--Returns to Sarawak 314
CHAPTER XXIII.
Borneo, its geographical bounds and leading divisions.--British
settlements in 1775.--The province of Sarawak formally ceded by the
sultan in perpetuity to Mr. Brooke its present ruler.--General view
of the Dyaks, the aborigines of Borneo.--The Dyaks of Sarawak, and
adjoining tribes; their past oppression and present position 329
CHAPTER XXIV.
Proposed British settlement on the northwest coast of Borneo, and
occupation of the island of Labuan.--Governor Crawfurd's opinions
thereon 345
Concluding Observations 355
Postscript to Second Edition 359
APPENDIX.
I. Natural History. Mr. Brooke's report on the Mias 365
II. Philology 370
III. Proposed Exploring Expedition to the Asiatic Archipelago, by
James Brooke, Esq. 1838 373
IV. Sketch of Borneo, or Pulo Kalamantan, by J. Hunt, Esq. 381
V. Extracts from the late Mr. Williamson's Journal 409
EXPEDITION TO BORNEO.
CHAPTER I.
The Chinese War having terminated, Captain Keppel in H.M.S. Dido
appointed to command of the Straits station.--Meeting with
Mr. Brooke.--Sketch of his life.--Mr. Brooke's outward voyage
in the Royalist.--Touch at Singapore.--Arrival off the coast of
Borneo.--Land at the island of Talang Talang.--Intercourse with
the Bandar.
At the conclusion of the Chinese war, the commander-in-chief,
Vice-Admiral Sir William Parker, ordered the Dido to the Malacca
Straits, a station in which was included the island of Borneo;
our principal duties being the protection of trade, and suppression
of piracy.
In the month of March, 1843, while at Pinang, I received intimation
from the governor of various daring acts of piracy having been
committed near the Borneon coast on some vessels trading to
Singapore. I proceeded to that port; and, while undergoing a partial
refit, made the acquaintance of Mr. Brooke, who accepted my invitation
to return to Sarawak in the Dido; and I could not have visited Borneo
with a more agreeable or intelligent companion.
The objects of Mr. Brooke in leaving England, the reasons which induced
him to settle at Sarawak, and the circumstances which have led him to
take so deep an interest in promoting the civilization and improving
the condition of the singular people whom he has adopted, form indeed
a story very unlike the common course of events in modern times.
But before illustrating these circumstances from his own journals,
it may be acceptable to say a few words respecting the individual
himself, and his extraordinary career. I am indebted to a mutual
friend, acquainted with him from early years, for the following brief
but interesting outline of his life; and have only to premise, that
Mr. Brooke is the lineal representative of Sir Robert Vyner, baronet,
and lord mayor of London in the reign of Charles II.; Sir Robert had
but one child, a son, Sir George Vyner, who died childless, and his
estate passed to his heir-at-law, Edith, his father's eldest sister,
whose lineal descendant is our friend. Sir Robert was renowned for
his loyalty to his sovereign, to whom he devoted his wealth, and to
whose memory he raised a monument.
"Mr. Brooke was the second, and is now the only surviving son of the
late Thomas Brooke, Esq., of the civil service of the East India
Company; was born on the 29th April, 1803; went out to India as
a cadet, where he held advantageous situations, and distinguished
himself by his gallantry in the Burmese war. He was shot through
the body in an action with the Burmese, received the thanks of the
government, and returned to England for the recovery of his prostrated
strength. He resumed his station, but shortly afterward relinquished
the service, and in search of health and amusement left Calcutta for
China in 1830. In this voyage, while going up the China seas, he saw
for the first time the islands of the Asiatic Archipelago--islands
of vast importance and unparalleled beauty--lying neglected, and
almost unknown. He inquired and read, and became convinced that
Borneo and the Eastern Isles afforded an open field for enterprise
and research. To carry to the Malay races, so long the terror of the
European merchant-vessels, the blessings of civilization, to suppress
piracy, and extirpate the slave-trade, became his humane and generous
objects; and from that hour the energies of his powerful mind were
devoted to this one pursuit. Often foiled, often disappointed, but
animated with a perseverance and enthusiasm which defied all obstacle,
he was not until 1838 enabled to set sail from England on his darling
project. The intervening years had been devoted to preparation and
inquiry; a year spent in the Mediterranean had tested his vessel, the
Royalist, and his crew; and so completely had he studied his subject
and calculated on contingencies, that the least sanguine of his friends
felt as he left the shore, hazardous and unusual as the enterprise
appeared to be, that he had omitted nothing to insure a successful
issue. 'I go,' said he, 'to awake the spirit of slumbering philanthropy
with regard to these islands; to carry Sir Stamford Raffles' views
in Java over the whole archipelago. Fortune and life I give freely;
and if I fail in the attempt, I shall not have lived wholly in vain.'
"In the admiration I feel for him, I may farther be permitted to
add, that if any man ever possessed in himself the resources and
means by which such noble designs were to be achieved, that man was
James Brooke! Of the most enlarged views; truthful and generous;
quick to acquire and appreciate; excelling in every manly sport and
exercise; elegant and accomplished; ever accessible; and above all,
prompt and determined to redress injury and relieve misfortune, he
was of all others the best qualified to impress the native mind with
the highest opinion of the English character. How he has succeeded,
the influence he has acquired, and the benefits he has conferred,
his own uncolored narrative, contained in the following pages, best
declares, and impresses on the world a lasting lesson of the good
that attends individual enterprise, when well directed, of which
every Englishman may feel justly proud."
Such is the sketch of Mr. Brooke by one well competent to judge of
that to which he bears witness. In pursuance of the mission thus
eloquently and truly described, that gentleman left his native shores
in the year 1838, in his yacht the Royalist schooner, of 142 tons,
belonging to the Royal Yacht Squadron, with a crew of upward of twenty
men. His general views were distinct and certain; but the details
into which they shaped themselves have been so entirely guided by
unforeseen occurrences, that it is necessary to look to his first
visit to Borneo for their explanation; and in order to do so, I must
refer to his private journal, which he kindly confided to me, after I
had in vain tried to persuade him to take upon himself the publication
of its contents, so rich in new and interesting intelligence.
EXTRACTS FROM Mr. BROOKE'S JOURNAL.
"I had for some years turned my mind to the geography of the
Indian Archipelago, and cherished an ardent desire to become better
acquainted with a country combining the richest natural productions
with an unrivaled degree of luxuriant beauty. Circumstances for a
time prevented my entering on this field for enterprise and research;
and when the barriers were removed, I had many preparations to make
and some difficulties to overcome.
"In an expedition conducted by government, the line of discipline is
so distinctly understood, and its infringement so strictly punished,
that small hazard is incurred of any inconvenience arising from such
a source. With an individual, however, there is no such assurance,
for he cannot appeal to the articles of war; and the ordinary legal
enactments for the protection of the mariner will not enable him to
effect objects so far removed beyond the scope of the laws. I was
fully aware that many would go, but that few might stay; for while a
voyage of discovery _in prospectu_ possesses great attractions for the
imagination, the hardship, danger, and thousand other rude realities,
soon dissipate the illusion, and leave the aspirant longing for that
home he should never have quitted. In like manner, seamen can be
procured in abundance, but cannot be kept from desertion whenever any
matter goes wrong; and the total previous ignorance of their characters
and dispositions renders this more likely, as the admission of one
'black sheep' goes far to taint the entire crew.
"These considerations fully convinced me that it was necessary to
form _men_ to my purpose, and, by a line of steady and kind conduct,
to raise up a personal regard for myself and attachment for the
vessel, which could not be expected in ordinary cases. In pursuance
of this object, I was nearly three years in preparing a crew to my
mind, and gradually moulding them to consider the hardest fate or
misfortune under my command as better than the ordinary service in a
merchant-vessel. How far I have succeeded remains yet to be proved;
but I cannot help hoping that I have raised the character of many,
and have rendered all happy and contented since they have been with
me; and certain am I that no men can do their duty more cheerfully
or willingly than the crew of the Royalist.
"I may pass over in silence my motives for undertaking so long and
arduous a voyage; and it will be sufficient to say, that I have been
firmly convinced of its beneficial tendency in adding to knowledge,
increasing trade, and spreading Christianity. The prospectus
of the undertaking was published in the _Geographical Journal_,
vol. viii. part iii., of 1838, when my preparations for sea were
nearly complete. I had previously avoided making any public mention
of my intentions, for praise before performance is disgusting; and
I knew I should be exposed to prying curiosity, desirous of knowing
what I did not know myself.
"On the 27th October, 1838, the Royalist left the river; and, after
a succession of heavy gales, finally quitted the land on the 16th
December. I may here state some farther particulars, to enable my
readers to become better acquainted with her and her equipment. The
Royalist, as already noticed, belonged to the Royal Yacht Squadron,
which in foreign ports admits her to the same privileges as a
man-of-war, and enables her to carry a white ensign. She sails fast,
is conveniently fitted up, is armed with six six-pounders, a number
of swivels, and small arms of all sorts, carries four boats, and
provisions for four months. Her principal defect is being too sharp
in the floor, which, in case of taking the ground, greatly increases
the risk; but I comfort myself with the reflection that a knowledge of
this will lead to redoubled precaution to prevent such a disaster. She
is withal a good sea-boat, and as well calculated for the service as
could be desired.
"Most of her hands had been with me for three years or upward,
and the rest were highly recommended. They are, almost without
exception, young, able-bodied, and active--fit in all respects for
enduring hardship and privation, or the more dangerous reverse of
self-indulgence, and willing to follow the fortunes of the Royalist and
her commander through all the various shades of good or evil fortune
which may betide. A fine, though slow passage took us to Rio Janeiro,
which presents features of natural beauty rarely equaled. The weather
during our stay was hot in the extreme, and very wet, which marred,
in some degree, the satisfaction I should otherwise have enjoyed in
wandering about this picturesque country. I passed ten days, however,
very agreeably, and departed with some regret from this brief visit to
America and from my friends (if they will so allow me to call them)
on board H.M.S. Calliope. I must not omit to mention that, during my
stay, I visited a slaver, three of which (prizes to our men-of-war)
lay in the harbor. It is a most loathsome and disgusting sight. Men,
women, and children--the aged and the infant--crowded into a space as
confined as the pens in Smithfield, not, however, to be released by
death at the close of the day, but to linger, diseased and festering,
for weeks or months, and then to be discharged into perpetual and
hopeless slavery. I wish I could say that our measures tended toward
the abolition of this detestable traffic; but from all that I could
learn and observe, I am forced to confess that the exertions made to
abolish slavery are of no avail in this country, and never will be
till harsher means are resorted to.
"There are points of view in which this traffic wears a more cheering
aspect; for any one comparing the puny Portuguese or the bastard
Brazilian with the athletic negro, cannot but allow that the ordinary
changes and chances of time will place this fine country in the hands
of the latter race. The negro will be fit to cultivate the soil, and
will thrive beneath the tropical sun of the Brazils. The enfeebled
white man grows more enfeebled and more degenerate with each succeeding
generation, and languishes in a clime which nature never designed him
to inhabit. The time will come when the debased and suffering negroes
shall possess this fertile land, and when some share of justice shall
be awarded to their cheerful tempers and ardent minds.
"Quitting Rio on the 9th, we cruised for a day or two with
H.M.S. Calliope and Grecian; and on the 11th, parting company,
prosecuted our voyage for the Cape of Good Hope."
The next notice runs thus:--"The aspect of Tristan d'Acunha is bold
even to grandeur. The peak, towering upward of eight thousand feet
above the sea, is inferior only to Teneriffe, and the precipitous
cliffs overhanging the beach are a fitting base for such a mountain. I
regretted not being able to examine this island for many reasons, but
principally, perhaps, on account of the birds of the South Atlantic
I had hoped to collect there, many of which are so often seen by
voyagers, yet so little known and so vaguely described.
"On the 29th March, after being detained a fortnight [at the Cape of
Good Hope] by such weather as no one could regret, we sailed again
in a southeaster, and after a passage of six weeks reached Java Head.
"I had been suffering for some time under a severe indisposition,
and consequently hailed the termination of our voyage with double
satisfaction, for I greatly required rest and quiet--two things
impossible to be had on ship-board. From Java Head we glided slowly
through Prince's Strait, and coasting along the island, dropped our
anchor in Anjer Roads. The scenery of this coast is extremely lovely,
and comprises every feature which can heighten the picturesque; noble
mountains, a lake-like sea, and deeply indented coast-line, rocks,
islets, and, above all, a vegetation so luxuriant that the eye never
wearies with gazing on its matchless tints. Anjer combines all these
beauties, and possesses the incalculable advantage of being within a
moderate ride of the refreshing coolness of the hills. We here procured
water and provisions in abundance, being daily visited by crowds of
canoes filled with necessaries or curiosities. Fowls, eggs, yams,
cocoa-nuts, and sweet potatoes, were mixed with monkeys of various
sorts, paroquets, squirrels, shells, and similar temptations on the
stranger's purse or wardrobe. Great was the bartering for old clothes,
handkerchiefs, and hats; and great the number of useless and noisy
animals we received in exchange. Great, too, was the merriment aboard,
and the excitement when the canoes first came. The transition from
the monotony of a sea-life to the loquacious bustle of barter with
a half-civilized people is so sudden, that the mind at once feels in
a strange land, and the commonest productions proclaim the luxuriant
climes of the tropics. Until this impression is made, we hardly know
why we have been sailing onward for four months past, so quiet and
unvarying is the daily tenor of a life aboard ship.
"_1st June, Singapore._--On reaching Singapore I was most hospitably
received by the kind inhabitants, and took up my abode with
Mr. Scott. The quiet and repose of my present life, the gentle ride
in the cool of the morning and evening drive after an early dinner,
are already restoring my shattered strength, and I trust soon to be
enabled to prosecute my farther undertaking. In the mean time the
Royalist is undergoing a refit after her passage, and, like her owner,
is daily improving in good looks.
"I could say much of Singapore, for it is the pivot of the liberal
system in the Archipelago, and owes its prosperity to the enlightened
measures of Sir Stamford Raffles. The situation is happily chosen,
the climate healthy, the commerce unshackled, and taxation light; and
these advantages have attracted the vessels of all the neighboring
nations to bring their produce to this market in order to exchange
it for the manufactures of England.
"The extent of the island is about 27 miles by 11 broad. The town
of Singapore stands on the south side, facing the shores of Battam,
and is intersected by a salt-water stream, which separates the native
town from the pleasant residences of the European inhabitants; the
latter stretch along the beach, and cover a space which extends to the
foot of a slight eminence, on which stands the governor's house. Off
the town lie the shipping of various countries, presenting a most
picturesque and striking appearance. The man-of-war, the steamer,
and the merchant-vessels of the civilized world, contrast with the
huge, misshapen, and bedizened arks of China! The awkward prahus
of the Bugis are surrounded by the light boats of the island. The
semi-civilized Cochin-Chinese, with their vessels of antiquated
European construction, deserve attention from this important step
toward improvement; and the rude prahus of some parts of Borneo claim
it from their exhibiting the early dawn of maritime adventure.
"_27th July._--After various causes of delay I sailed on this day from
Singapore. When I contrast my state of health at my arrival with what
it now is, I may well be thankful for the improvement. Every kindness
and hospitality has been shown me.
"On Saturday at noon we got under weigh with a light breeze, and
stood down the Strait on our way to Borneo.
"_28th._--In the morning we were well out in the China Sea, running
six knots per hour, N. 3/4 E. Lines of discolored water were seen
about us, and about 11 A.M. we entered a field some two miles long
and 400 yards wide. The consistence of this dirty mass was that of
pea-soup, which it likewise resembled in color; and I doubt not the
white water of the China Sea (vide _Nautical Magazine_) is referable
to this appearance seen in the night, as may the report of rocks,
&c. The Malays on board called it 'sara,' and declared it to come from
the rivers. On examination it appeared, when magnified, somewhat like
a grain of barley or corn. The particles were extremely minute, soft,
and, when rubbed between the fingers, emitted a strong smell like
paint-oil; a potent odor arose while passing through the thick patch.
"It may not be superfluous to recount here the preparations I have
made for this trip to Borneo, or my intentions when I get there. Borneo
Proper, once the seat of piracy, which few vessels could approach with
safety, is now under the sway of the Rajah Muda Hassim. The character
given this rajah by many persons who know and have traded with him is
good, and he is spoken of as generous and humane, and greatly inclined
to the English. These reasons have induced me to abandon my intention
of proceeding direct to Malludu Bay, and during the season of the
southwest monsoon to confine myself principally to the northwest
coast. Muda Hassim being at present reported to be at Sarawak, I
propose, after taking a running sketch of the coast from Tanjong Api,
to enter the river of that name, and proceed as far as the town.
"I believe I have availed myself of every means within my reach
to render my visit agreeable to the rajah. I carry with me many
presents which are reported to be to his liking; gaudy silks of
Surat, scarlet cloth, stamped velvet, gunpowder, &c., beside a large
quantity of confectionery and sweets, such as preserved ginger, jams,
dates, syrups, and to wind up all, a huge box of China toys for his
children! I have likewise taken coarse nankeen to the amount of 100_l._
value, as the best circulating medium in the country. Beside the
above mentioned preparations, I carry letters from the government of
Singapore, to state, as far as can be done, the objects of my voyage,
and to caution the rajah to take every care of my safety and that
of my men. The Board of Commerce have at the same time entrusted me
with a letter and present to him, to thank him for his humanity to
the crew of an English vessel wrecked on this coast. The story, as
I had it from the parties shipwrecked, is highly creditable to his
humanity. The vessel, called the Napoleon, was wrecked on the bar of
Sarawak river in the northeast monsoon. The people were saved with
difficulty, and remained in the jungle, where they were after a time
discovered by some Malays. Muda Hassim, on receiving intelligence of
this, sent down and brought them to his town, collected all that he
could recover from the wreck, clothed them handsomely, and fed them
well for several months, and, on an opportunity arriving, sent them
back to Singapore free of expense.
"At the same time, however, that I have prepared to meet the natives
as friends, I have not neglected to strengthen my crew, in case I
should find them hostile. Eight stout men of the Ourang Laut, or men of
the sea (Malays), have been added to the force. They are an athletic
race, cheerful and willing; and though not seaman in our sense of the
term, yet well calculated for this expedition. They pull a good oar,
and are invaluable in saving the Europeans the exposure consequent
to wooding and watering. They possess, likewise, the knowledge of
the jungle and its resources, and two of them have before been to
Sarawak and along the coast. Beside these, a young gentleman named
Williamson accompanies me as interpreter; and I have fortunately met
with a medical gentleman, Mr. Westermann, a Dane, who is surgeon for
this voyage, Mr. Williams having left me at Singapore. With these
arrangements I look without apprehension to the power of the Malays;
and without relaxing in measures of the strictest vigilance, I shall
never sleep less soundly when it comes to my turn so to do.
"_August 1st._--I am, then, at length, anchored off the coast of
Borneo! not under very pleasant circumstances, for the night is pitchy
dark, with thunder, lightning, rain, and squalls of wind.
"_2d._--Squally bad night. This morning, the clouds clearing away, was
delightful, and offered for our view the majestic scenery of Borneo. At
nine got under weigh, and ran in on an east-by-south course 4 1/2 or
5 miles toward Tanjong Api. Came to an anchor about five miles from
the land, and dispatched the boat to take sights ashore, in order to
form a base-line for triangulation. The scenery may really be called
majestic. The low and wooded coast about Tanjong Api is backed by
a mountain called Gunong [1] Palo, some 2000 feet in height, which
slopes down behind the point and terminates in a number of hummocks,
showing from a distance like islands.
"The coast, unknown, and represented to abound in shoals and reefs, is
the harbor for pirates of every description. Here, every man's hand is
raised against his brother man; and here sometimes the climate wars
upon the excitable European, and lays many a white face and gallant
heart low on the distant strand.
"_3d._--Beating between Points Api and Datu. The bay, as far as we
have seen, is free from danger; the beach is lined by a feathery row
of beautiful casuarinas, and behind is a tangled jungle, without fine
timber; game is plentiful, from the traces we saw on the sand; hogs in
great numbers, troops of monkeys, and the print of an animal with cleft
hoofs, either a large deer, tapir, or cow. We saw no game save a tribe
of monkeys, one of which, a female, I shot, and another quite young,
which we managed to capture alive. The captive, though the young of
the black monkey, is grayish, with the exception of his extremities,
and a stripe of black down his back and tail. Though very young, he
has already taken food, and we have some hope of preserving his life.
"We witnessed, at the same time, an extraordinary and fatal leap
made by one of these monkeys. Alarmed by our approach, he sprang
from the summit of a high tree at the branch of one lower, and at
some distance. He leaped short, and came clattering down some sixty
or seventy feet amid the jungle. We were unable to penetrate to the
spot on account of a deep swamp to ascertain his fate.
"A rivulet flows into the sea not far from where we landed; the water
is sweet, and of that clear brown color so common in Ireland. This
coast is evidently the haunt of native prahus, whether piratical or
other. Prints of men's feet were numerous and fresh, and traces of
huts, fires, and parts of boats, some of them ornamented after their
rude fashion. A long pull of five miles closed the day.
"_Sunday, 4th._--Performed divine service myself! manfully overcoming
that horror which I have to the sound of my own voice before an
audience. In the evening landed again more to the westward. Shore
skirted by rocks; timber noble, and the forest clear of brushwood,
enabling us to penetrate with ease as far as caution permitted. Traces
of wild beasts numerous and recent, but none discovered. Fresh-water
streams, colored as yesterday, and the trail of an alligator from
one of them to the sea. This dark forest, where the trees shoot up
straight and tall, and are succeeded by generation after generation
varying in stature, but struggling upward, strikes the imagination
with pictures trite yet true. Here the hoary sage of a hundred years
lies moldering beneath your foot, and there the young sapling shoots
beneath the parent shade, and grows in form and fashion like the
parent stem. The towering few, with heads raised above the general
mass, can scarce be seen through the foliage of those beneath; but
here and there the touch of time has cast his withering hand upon
their leafy brow, and decay has begun his work upon the gigantic and
unbending trunk. How trite and yet how true! It was thus I meditated
in my walk. The foot of European, I said, has never touched where
my foot now presses--seldom the native wanders here. Here I indeed
behold nature fresh from the bosom of creation, unchanged by man, and
stamped with the same impress she originally bore! Here I behold God's
design when He formed this tropical land, and left its culture and
improvement to the agency of man. The Creator's gift as yet neglected
by the creature; and yet the time may be confidently looked for when
the axe shall level the forest, and the plow turn the ground.
"_6th._--Made sail this morning, and stood in for an island called
Talang Talang, anchoring about eight miles distant, and sending a
boat to take correct observations for a base-line.
"Our party found Malays of Sarawak on the island, who were civil
to them, and offered to conduct us up to-morrow, if we wanted their
assistance. The pirates, both Illanuns and Dyaks, have been gone from
the bay but a few days; the former seaward, the latter up the rivers.
"_7th._--Morning calm. In the afternoon got under weigh, and anchored
again near the island of Talang Talang; the smaller one a conical
hill bearing south. The Bandar [2] of the place came off in his canoe
to make us welcome. He is a young man sent by Rajah Muda Hassim to
collect turtles' eggs, which abound in this vicinity, especially
on the larger island. The turtles are never molested, for fear of
their deserting the spot; and their eggs, to the amount of five or
six thousand, are collected every morning and forwarded at intervals
to Sarawak as articles of food.
"Our visitor was extremely polite, and, in common with other Asiatics,
possessed the most pleasing and easy manners. He assured us of a
welcome from his rajah, and, in their usual phrase, expressed himself
that the rajah's heart would dilate in his bosom at the sight of
us. His dress consisted of trowsers of green cloth, a dark green
velvet jacket, and his sarong round his waist, thrown gracefully
over two krisses, which he wore at his girdle. His attendants were
poorly attired, and mostly unarmed--a proof of confidence in us, and
a desire to assure us of his own friendly intentions. I treated him
with sweetmeats and syrup, and of his own accord he took a glass of
sherry, as did his chief attendant. On his departure he was presented
with three yards of red cloth, and subsequently with a little tea
and gunpowder."