CHAPTER XXVIII

THREE DIPLOMATS AT ROME—THE GUARDIANSHIP OF THE HOLY TOMB

IN Rome I met three diplomats; as different from each other as night

from day, as the Pope of Rome from the Khalif of Islam—a false

comparison often made in New Turkey to-day.

We have described the Pope; the sanctity of his office, the odour of

piety in which he dwells. The Pope is not of the world; he is above the

world-elected, not born. The Khalif, like an hereditary king, inherits

his position as Head of Islam; which means that he owes his position to

the hazard of fortune, not to personality or virtue.

I have met all the Khalifs from Abdul Hamid to his present descendant,

who was, when I saw him, the third in succession. He appeared to me a

kindly, cultured gentleman and a talented artist. My host at that time,

Prince Youssouff Zeddine, heir to the then Sultan, had frequently

invited me to the Palace, and always spoke highly of his younger

brother. The Prince had a touching affection for England, and, with

Djémal Pasha (then Minister of Marine) for interpreter, would gladly

listen to endless stories of olden and modern days. Passing from Alfred

and the cakes; through Drake, Gordon, and Princess Mary; to his

favourite tale of the Suffragettes chained to the grille at Westminster,

I sought to inspire this unhappy man with memories of the greatness of

the England he loved so well.

If, by any chance, I varied a phrase or omitted the slightest detail, he

would beg Djémal “to respectfully remind Mademoiselle that she is going

too fast!” It is difficult, indeed, to believe that the man who laughed

so heartily at the words “Votes for Women,” could have ended his own

existence. He dared to say to the Turkish Parliament, “On no account

must we be on the wrong side with England”; and the next day he was

dead!

Not only in Turkey, but throughout Islam, which includes India, there is

no institution so sacred as the Khalifate, yet the term is meaningless

if the Khalif loses Arabia. Next in sanctity to Mecca, in Moslem eyes,

comes Jerusalem, for all the prophets of that Holy City are sacred to

Islam, though her prophets have no honour in Judea or among Christians.

Should we not tremble when Christian Powers attempt to tamper with lands

of pilgrimage like Hedjaz, and when they trample upon the traditions of

the Khalifate?

* * * * *

At Rome, Osman Nyzami Pasha represented Constantinople, while

Djelaleddine Arif Bey was Minister for Angora. The former did not,

indeed, go into exile with the Nationalists; but his varied experience

as soldier, statesman, and ambassador has given him a rare knowledge of

Europe that makes him popular and useful in diplomacy. Alas, now,

however, his career ends.

Ten years ago in Constantinople he greeted me with, “Dear child, what

for did you do this dreadful thing,” as I was returning from the Persian

Mouharrem, the anniversary of the assassination of Hussein, son of the

Prophet. The Spanish Minister, who was with us, had fainted outright,

although familiar with bull-fights. His wife, Mme. M., a Swede, had more

courage than either of us; but I almost fell into the Ambassador’s arms

as I reached my hotel.

In a ring formed round a centre of blazing torches, white-robed men wail

and mourn for the holy martyr, slashing their heads with swords. They

dip their hands in the flowing blood, and sprinkle it all over their

faces. I was haunted for weeks by the ghastly spectacle, which I shall

never be able to forget, of those stained robes and faces, amidst the

wild fanatical shrieks. When, as often happens, a man thus kills himself

in the fury of exaltation, he is acclaimed a martyr, and his family are

pensioned for life.

When I asked why such awful ceremonies were permitted, I was reminded of

Turkey’s “non-interference” with every creed and all the “pieties” of

all peoples.

* * * * *

At Rome, I lodged in a quiet convent, which closed at 7.30. But the

Ambassador called at eight and was followed by a succession of Turkish

friends, until Mihrinour and her husband arrived at 10.30. I apologised

next morning to the Mother Superior for such unseemly interruptions of

her ordered life; explaining, in a fifteen minutes’ lecture, how anxious

a Turk would always feel for the comfort of any friend. “You are

perfectly right,” she said, “I know them well. I lived eighteen years on

the shores of the Bosphorus!”

Djelaleddine Arif Bey gave me a right royal welcome to Rome, and allowed

me to trouble him with all sorts of questions. In Constantinople he had

been what we call Dean of the Faculty of Law, and one day, on an

official visit to the Sultan, wearing a frock-coat and patent-leather

shoes, _he had just time to escape to Angora_, dressed as he was. His

knowledge of both the Cheriat and European Laws was invaluable to the

Assembly, and it is a delight to hear from his own lips that Turkey is

going to establish her _own_ Constitution, not a poor imitation of ours.

“Our justice has been paralysed by capitulations,” he said; and told me

of an Italian murderer who had found sanctuary in his Consulate, because

the Kavass would not give him up. “We have been bound and fettered all

these years, but it cannot go on.”

His admirable organisation of Justice in Angora developed from one

colleague to twenty-five assistants, for work which occupied three

hundred men in Constantinople! Yet he very soon established complete

order, though after the peace he hopes for still greater perfection.

He was interested in the personality of Cardinal Gasparri, whom I had

met for the first time. I found him a great contrast to Cardinal Merry

de Val, with whom I had long discussions about Islam ten years ago.

Shrewdest of diplomats, keenest of observers, is there one move of the

world’s political chess-board he has not penetrated? Seeing, knowing,

judging everything, could he make a mistake? In a State Church he would

be a grave danger; but the days of State Churches are almost no more. As

the Turkish minister remarked: “A Church needs more than anything a

level-headed diplomatist having no connection with politics.” The

Cardinal, then, is far too clever a man to undervalue Islam.

He has studied the greatest living authorities, in translations when he

cannot read the originals, upon all the wonderful books of the East, and

listens to men learned in the Koran. In theology, as in politics, none

could catch him napping. One may, perhaps, guess something of his

opinions by listening carefully to such questions as he may put to you;

for he tells you nothing and seems to gather up all you know almost

before you are conscious of having spoken. I _do_ remember, however,

that he asked me what the Turks proposed to do about the Holy Tomb?

To this I answered that Djelaleddini Arif Bey had said: “There could be

no decision taken about Palestine without consulting the Turks. This

astute lawyer had always bidden the Catholic authorities to remember

that Christ, according to the Koran, is of miraculous birth, is one of

Islam’s most venerated prophets. For the Moslem to blaspheme the Virgin

Mary would be a heinous offence. To hand over the guardianship of the

Holy Tomb to the Israelites is, therefore, a direct insult to Islam.”

Fethi Bey also said: “We have all our work cut out looking after our own

frontiers, yet we have always faithfully guarded the tomb of Christ, our

prophet. What can we think, if the Powers now prefer to entrust it to

the Jews who crucified Him and still deny Him?”

Even as Mecca is to the Moslem, should Calvary be to us. Shall we who

are called Christians suffer the Tomb we do not guard ourselves, to be

taken from those who have faith in Christ?

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An Englishwoman in Angora · 第 28 / 35 章