ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY—A VISIT TO THE CATHOLICS IN ANGORA
THERE is so often compensation for disappointment. Had I been able to
reach Angora through Constantinople, had I not been held up six weeks by
strikes on sea, I should have missed the chance of another visit to
Rome—above all, of having an audience with Pope Pius XI.
His Holiness could not know, for I did not myself then imagine, the
precious gift he thus entrusted to me for his children in Anatolia. He
certainly would not feel the time wasted, could I convey to him the
heartfelt joy and reverence with which they listened for my answers to
their eager questions. “What is he like, our Holy Father? Is it true
that he always prays for us?”
No one could fail, indeed, to have been impressed by the deep sincerity
with which the Pope takes man’s sorrows to heart; the great anxiety that
overwhelms him, not only for his own flock but for all humanity; and his
great desire for peace.
Towards Turkey, I believe the Christian world will follow the lead of
Great Britain; as in their attitude towards the Christian Powers, Islam
will follow the lead of Turkey. Now that Mustapha Kemal Pasha has raised
Turkey again to be the true head of Islam, should not our whole policy
in the East rest on her friendship?
As in politics, so in religion. Dare we listen to the appeal of American
Nonconformity for a “Holy War” _against_ Islam; dare we follow the
Anglican into union with the Greek Church _against_ the followers of the
Prophet? Only the Roman Church has lived in perfect harmony in Turkey?
The only Christians to praise and honour the Moslem faith!
* * * * *
One must come from an audience in the Vatican with sealed lips.
But when humanity is waiting for understanding and kindness; when, above
all, the East is asking: “Can we trust the West?” it is impossible to
remain altogether silent concerning the Holy Father of Rome.
Turkey has been insulted, despised, and deceived by Christendom. Despite
her utmost tolerance to every faith, she has been betrayed by those to
whom she was most indulgent. Missionaries she welcomed in Christ’s name,
as messengers of His love to all men, have used their sacred privileges
to organise enemy propaganda.
Therefore will I bear witness: there is a father’s heart on Peter’s
throne; a father anxious for all his children, suffering; and _with no
crusade to urge against Islam_, also sons of God and brothers of Christ!
For him there is one “enemy,” and only one: the “Materialism” that is
poisoning our civilisations; nourishing our pride, our jealousy, and our
hate; threatening our faith.
Is this “indiscretion”? Yet how is it possible to express one’s personal
impressions of an audience with the Sovereign Pontif! All the
literatures of the world have dedicated immortal pages to the Father of
Christendom. They have paid homage to him, if not as spiritual head, at
least as a great and picturesque personality; and, above all, a
personality backed by the traditions of ages.
[Illustration:
BURNT QUARTER IN THE FRENCH PART OF SMYRNA NEAR THE QUAY.
p. 48
]
Dumas, in his beautifully written interview with Pope Gregory XVI.,
describes his terror at the thought of meeting the Pope. To-day such a
sentiment is no longer possible. Awe and reverence have taken the place
of terror. Excommunication has lost all the meaning it had in the Middle
Ages. And yet, deprived as he is of all temporal power, the Pope is
expected, by virtue of the age of his sacred office, to express himself
in all moments of crisis. As spiritual head of the Christian Church, he
is to-day in a difficult position. The Greeks and Armenians, it is true,
are not for the most part his children. They belong, however, to
branches of the Christian Church; and no Pope, however much the poor
misguided peoples are responsible for their own misfortunes, can look
with indifference on what is happening to them, and may still happen.
[Illustration:
A LUNCHEON PARTY AT THE OTTOMAN BANK, ANGORA.
BOGHETTI.
(Director of the Ottoman Bank.)
OEILLET.
(Secretary to Colonel Mougin.)
MISS GRACE ELLISON.
HAÏDAR BEY.
(Deputé for Vannes.)
COLONEL MOUGIN.
p. 240
]
On the other hand, no Pope can forget what the Vatican owes to Turkey.
In that hospitable land, the Roman Catholic orders, expelled from
France, sought refuge. Throughout the length and breadth of the country,
Catholic missions thrive and prosper. Though they rarely, if ever, make
converts, they give care in sickness; comforts, education, and
instruction to the Turks. And who is responsible for the cultural French
language spoken in the Near East, if not the Jesuit Fathers?
This extraordinary religious tolerance on the part of the Turks has
always been incomprehensible. Disraeli’s protection of the Turk was born
of his gratitude for the religious tolerance they extended to the Jew.
Jews, who could escape massacre in Russia, found then, as they find now,
a comfortable home where they are free to practice their religion and
make money. What more can they want?
Naturally, then, seeing what the Vatican owes to Turkey, and Turkey to
the Vatican, the Pope is interested in the personality of M. Kemal
Pasha, and proved very willing to hear what a Western woman, with
opportunities in the past of studying Turkish home life, knows of this
great Nationalist hero.
Anyone who has seen the ceremonies at the Vatican must be impressed by
their great spectacular beauty. The Church of Rome has given the world
some of its finest art, literature and music. And at the Vatican itself,
wherever the eye wanders, there is beauty—beauty of architecture, beauty
of colouring. On the one side there is the gaudy costume of the Swiss
Guard, with their scarlet and gold, in striking contrast to the grey
courtyard and the black dresses or mantillas of the lady visitors; there
are the frescoes, the statues: and over all a veil of mystery and the
charm of history.
From the time one’s carriage rumbles over the stones of the great
unshaded courtyard to the side where the Pope’s apartments are situated,
one has the sensation of walking over a book of sacred history. It is
true all Rome is history. The Vatican, however, is the history of the
Catholic Church from the beginning, and as you go up the marble steps
you instinctively lower your voice, walking slowly and silently. For
have not all the greatest figures in the world’s history passed up that
staircase?
There is everywhere a delightful odour of books; but where are the
books? Uniformed diplomatists, high officials, generals, cardinals in
their scarlet splendour, priests in black and scarlet and purple,
attendants in red damask court breeches, walk noiselessly in and out.
All the chairs seem so big, and the consoles and vases so huge and so
valuable, that a portrait of the kindly face of Pope Pius X. is a
welcome change. Seeing me looking at the peaceful, saintly face, my
neighbour whispers: “C’était un vrai père.” One notices also a beautiful
bust of Pope Benedict XV. Why do the photographers never do justice to
his fine intelligent face?
Monsignor X. has come to fetch me. He, too, is keenly interested in
Angora. Now I am taken to the Throne Room; the Holy Father comes forward
to greet me. He stands whilst talking to me, with one hand resting on a
large piece of antique furniture. Beginning to speak in English, he
continues in French.
The Pope speaks most modern languages; and, as he receives every day,
keeps himself in personal touch not only with the best-known Catholics,
but with all the important personalities who come to Rome. He has
travelled extensively, is well-read in many languages, and has written
books of the highest value. As a younger man, Monsignor Ceretti—the
Paris Papal Nonce—has told us, the Pope used often to read and write the
whole night through, and he has an inexhaustible fund of most valuable
information. And what does he not know of Islam? He has studied it in
all its phases; hence his great tolerance.
Clad in a white cloth soutane, with a wide white cape over his broad
shoulders, a white cloth sash hanging in wide ends on the left side,
white buttons and a white calotte and red shoes, the Holy Father stands
out as a contrast in simplicity to his surroundings. His thick gold
chain and handsomely chiselled cross, with its large diamonds, are his
only ornaments besides the pastoral ring.
Of medium height and pale, his powerful face is young for his years, and
his large wide forehead quite unlined. His features are clear cut; his
eyes seem small, perhaps because of the thick glass of the spectacles,
which he frequently adjusts.
One is particularly struck, however, by the power of his features and
his frank expression. It is a face of much intelligence, but, above all,
one of the greatest human kindness. This can be seen more from the mouth
than the eyes.
I told the Pope why I was going to Angora, where, as the people knew me
and trusted me, I hoped, at any rate, to achieve some good. An
expression of infinite sadness passed over his face as I continued: “All
this awful bloodshed, this useless suffering. Surely these things should
never have come upon us.”
There was, indeed, little his Holiness could say. He knows how useless
it is now, to question on whose shoulders History will place the
responsibility for the diplomatic bungling in the Near East.
It should be remembered, however, that he had written to M. Kemal,
begging him to do all in his power to prevent bloodshed as the army
advanced. The Pasha’s reply was dignified, wise, and sympathetic: surely
a key to his fine personality, as all can recognise it to-day.
I said to the Pope: “Mustapha Kemal appears to me a man of great
understanding, who would be capable of a _beau geste_ towards
Christianity. His speeches are democratic, full of kindness and
consideration for his people, revealing a real desire and determination
to lead them along the road to that prosperity which should be the
heritage of a people dowered with a soil so fertile in precious
minerals.... Yet, of course, other men in other countries have made
great speeches and done nothing!”
In paying tribute to the personality of M. Kemal Pasha, so far as I
could then judge it, I said that he seemed to me a man of moderation,
who would always use his great influence to prevent bloodshed. Yet one
trembles at the thought of the moment when the army goes into
Constantinople! The slightest friction, through no fault of the great
general himself, might have appalling results. Yet I have sufficient
confidence in the Turks to know they would not willingly harm one
religious order. It could only be by accident ... yet it would be
terrible, and must not happen....
“Nothing will happen, your Holiness,” I went on, “unless the Greeks
begin it. In their tragic and hasty exodus from Thrace were they not
reminded, in terror of what might be, of their own conduct in Asia
Minor?” Yet the Pope’s face was very anxious. There was great pathos in
his voice.
In what almost tragic situations a Pope thus often finds himself! The
spiritual father of both sides; nevertheless neutral, or, if not
neutral, criticised by both ... always expected to dispense generosity
and mercy—and receiving none; no wonder the strain of the war killed
both Benedict XV. and Pius X.
In Angora I told M. Kemal Pasha of the Pope’s great desire for peace.
What was to be the Pasha’s _beau geste_ towards Christianity. I
suggested he might, as S. Sophia was a Christian Church, give it back to
the Pope, as spiritual head of Christendom.
M. Kemal Pasha replied: “Had there been only one branch of the Christian
Church, although S. Sophia has now become part of our Moslem traditions,
it might have been possible. As the Christian Church is so much divided,
it is impossible. We should only excite the Russians, the Greeks, and
the Anglicans, to come and fight each other on our soil for S. Sophia;
and the _beau geste_ you suggest for peace would lead to eternal
conflict and strife. Nevertheless, we are so anxious to do all in our
power to honour Christianity in the eyes of the world that if, by our
retaining S. Sophia as a mosque, we are really giving offence to the
Catholic Church, we would either turn it into a museum, or close it
forever. None must ever be able to say that we have intentionally
injured the Christian Church.”
I complimented the Pasha on his fine sentiments toward the Christian
religion.
“It is natural,” he replied. “I am only carrying on our traditional
tolerance to all religions. The Roman Catholics and all Christians, as
well as the Jews, have always had full religious freedom in our country.
As to the _beau geste_, what can I say? You are free to go anywhere you
like in Anatolia; talk to the Greeks, talk to the Armenians. If there is
any cause of complaint, we will see that it is removed at once. We want
the Christians to be happy in our country. We have given them full
religious liberty, and equal rights with Moslems: can we do more? I feel
sure that, in spite of all the devastation and atrocities committed by
the Greeks in our country, in a very short time they will be back
amongst us: the great friends they were before the Powers interfered.”
Rauf Bey, the Prime Minister, echoed the sentiments of the Pasha. “Tell
the Pope,” he said, “to rest assured we are doing all in our power to
make his people happy and contented. Can there be a finer _beau geste_
than this?”
As the Pasha had suggested, I went everywhere, saw and questioned
everyone. The Greek prisoners were bitter in their criticism of England,
who betrayed them and left them unaided to fight the Turkish army.
Surely the least intelligent of our military attachés would have seen
the cruelty of such a move.
Contrary to what most people suppose, there is a Christian colony left
in Angora. It is mostly Armenian, though there are still many Greeks.
The community nevertheless calls itself, and always gives as its legal
nationality, “Catholic”; a delicate way of avoiding difficult questions.
Mass is said on Sunday three times, partly in Armenian, which many of
the Armenians do not understand, and the rest in Turkish. All the
Armenians wear fezes, and prayers are said for Turkey. The little chapel
is primitive and picturesque; never, however, has one heard such strange
_Ave Marias_ or _Glorias_ or _Agnus Deis_ as those sung in their Turkish
setting.
During my Christmas visit to the head of the Armenian Church at Angora,
I asked him what message he wished me to give the Pope on his behalf. I
told him the Pope was anxious about the Christians; and he might tell
me, in confidence, if he was not happy in Turkey.
For my visit the Armenian orphans had put their home in _festere
altere_. They had made cakes and sweets to be served with coffee and
tea.
Then it was that I had the pleasure of speaking to them about the
wonderful personality of the Pope as I had seen him in Rome; and of
telling them that, above all, their Father in Christ stood for loyalty
to their State. The Turks had never hampered their loyalty to their
Church, and the Pope would never hamper the loyalty and obedience they
owed to the Sovereign State.
Then the dusky-skinned orphans, boys and girls together, were marched
before me, each taking my hand, kissing it and raising it to their
forehead.
As I said afterwards to Colonel Mougin: “I wish it were possible to
supplement the meagre funds with which Father Babadjanian is maintaining
this little colony of poor children.”
“Tell the Holy Father,” said Father Babadjanian, “that we are
_perfectly_ happy with the Turks. They are trying to send us away from
Angora for economical reasons, but we do not want to go. We have been
told by the Grand National Assembly that we shall have exactly the same
rights as the Moslems—no more, no less. What more can we expect or
desire?
“Tell His Holiness to inform Europe and America,” he concluded, “that it
is useless to try and protect _disloyal_ Christian minorities here. It
cannot be done by any Church, or any League of Nations. We know very
well, and events have proved it, that so long as we remain _loyal_ to
the Turkish Government, all will be well. All the trouble that has come
to us has arisen from the disloyalty and political intrigues of the
Orthodox Armenians and Greeks, and, above all, from outside propaganda.
So much has been said and written about an “Armenian Home”; let America
offer Armenians that national home. Let the Powers, since it is they who
are the cause of all the trouble, only recognise that they must provide
homes elsewhere for every Christian who wants to go, or else leave us
alone....
“If you only knew how we tremble before this useless propaganda, how we
pray to be delivered from our European friends. _Turkey is our home._ We
have to live with the Turks on friendly terms; and will gladly do so, if
_only_ this political propaganda can cease.”
Colonel Mougin, who accompanied me on this visit, can vouch for these
statements, which he considered so important that he communicated them
to his Government.
I have delivered the message of M. Kemal Pasha and Father Babadjanian to
the Holy Father. He will receive, also, fuller impressions of my
interesting trip through Anatolia; and fuller descriptions of this
country and those people who have made so splendid a fight for freedom
and independence.
Throughout the length and breadth of Anatolia, prayers for peace have
been echoed and re-echoed. There must be peace; but not at the expense
of the sovereign rights of the people.
It is a comfort to the Turks, nevertheless, to know that the head of the
Catholic Church stretches out the hand of friendship towards them, and
prays for their peace and prosperity through the brotherhood of Moslems
and Christians in the East.
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