He had abundant opportunity to see, for he was very kindly received by

the society which it was natural for him to mingle with, and several of

his hosts were untiring in their efforts to please him and render him

comfortable. He was by no means incapable of social intercourse,

notwithstanding his retired habits; the capacity had never been

developed by early breeding or by later necessity, and though on his

return home, the change in him was noticeable, even under the influence

of his foreign travels he remained a silent, difficult, and evasive

person in society. When he was among his own old and familiar friends,

such as Bridge or Pierce, or with new companions whom he accepted into

his circle, such as Fields, he was open enough and took his share

genially and sometimes jovially, as well as when he was with the

American sea captains or his old associates in Salem; but the touch of

social formality, the presence of a stranger, the ways and habits of

conventionality shut him up in impenetrable reserve and made him

temporarily miserable. In England, however, he was compelled to meet and

be met in the ordinary intercourse of men and women, and he fared much

better than might have been anticipated. Very greatly to the surprise of

his friends he proved an excellent after-dinner speaker, not only on the

public occasions where the sense of his official station as a

representative of his country would have spurred him to acquit himself

well, but also at private parties and in purely personal relations. Like

many silent men he was a good listener, and his sensitiveness and mental

alertness gave the impression of more sympathy than perhaps he felt. He

made himself agreeable, at all events, and he submitted to an amount of

human fellowship that was astonishing to himself. The novelty of the

society he entered, doubtless, attracted him, and fed his curiosity, as

it certainly was an excitement to his wife. They had lived all their

lives in a community so much simpler in all the furnishings of refined

living, so much less characterized by the material luxuries of wealth,

than this in which they now found themselves, that the mere sight of the

houses, dinners, and liveries was a new experience, and they observed

them like country cousins. The manners of this society, also, arrested

their attention. It was inevitable that Hawthorne should maintain an

aloofness from all this, nevertheless, with the natural democratic

questioning of the reality of the courtesy, the propriety of the system,

the kind and quality of the social results. He felt the appeal that this

life made, he perceived its fitness to the soil, he saw it as a growth

that belonged in its place; but he was thoroughly glad that there was

nothing like it in his own country. There is not the slightest hint in

any word of his that he regarded himself as an ambassador of friendship

in a foreign country or thought that it was any part of his duty to

cultivate international good feeling: he felt himself politically,

socially, fundamentally, an alien in England, and he preferred to be so;

what first struck him were those obvious differences that distinguish

the two peoples, and these remained most prominently in his mind. He was

a stranger when he landed at Liverpool, and he never suffered the least

tincture of naturalization while he was in the country.

This attitude determines the point of view in his notes and

reminiscences. He was an observer, close and accurate and interested;

but he had not that sympathy which seeks to understand, to interpret, to

justify what one sees, and to put one's self in accord with it. He had

his standards already well fixed, and his limitations which he was not

sufficiently aware of to desire to escape. He had, too, the critical

spirit which is a New England trait, and with this went its natural

attendant, the habit of speaking his mind. In writing down his

impressions of English manners and institutions and people, he behaved

exactly as he had done in his records of similar things at home; there

was no difference in his method or in the character of what he said; he

was telling what he saw with that indifference to how it would strike

other people which comes near to being unconsciousness. He was a good

deal surprised when he discovered that the English did not relish what

he said; he protested that he had done them more than justice, that they

were too easily hurt, and as for hating them, he adds, "I would as soon

hate my own people." There is no ill-nature in "Our Old Home;" there is

only the clearly expressed, bare, unsympathetic statement of what he had

seen, touched here and there with that irony and humor which were apt to

mix with his view of men and things. So the people at Salem had thought

he did them injustice in his sketch of his native home, and he in turn

had told them that he had treated them very considerately, without

enmity or ill feeling of any kind, and in fact what he had written

"could not have been done in a better or kindlier spirit nor with a

livelier effect of truth." He had written of England in precisely the

same way, with that remorseless adherence to his own impression which

was second nature to him, and with that willingness to see the wrong

side of things that he disliked, to minimize human nature when it bored

him, and to get a grim humor out of his victims, which was also a part

of his endowment. In all this, as in some other parts of Hawthorne's

personality, there is a reminder of Carlyle. The hard judgment he wrote

down of Margaret Fuller, for example, and the humorous extravagance of

his visit to Martin Tupper, are not to be paralleled except in Carlyle's

reminiscences; there was the same unflinching rigor, the same cold

obtuseness, the same half-wearied contempt for what excited their humor

in both men. In his vexation of spirit Hawthorne is especially

suggestive of some discomfortable cousinship between them; and he was

often vexed in spirit. He was, it would seem, especially burdened by the

material comfort of England, in which he found a grossness but little

consonant with his own taste and spirit, and he made of this the type of

things English, as it is easy to do:--

"The best thing a man born in this island can do is to eat his beef and

mutton and drink his porter, and take things as they are; and think

thoughts that shall be so beefish, muttonish, portish, and porterish,

that they shall be matters rather material than intellectual. In this

way an Englishman is natural, wholesome, and good; a being fit for the

present time and circumstances, and entitled to let the future alone!"

The ascetic and intellectual element, which was large in his ideal past,

was revolted by these things, just as the democratic instincts of his

nature were shocked by the aristocratic system of society with its

social results. He was, too, always in a certain sense homesick; not

that he was anxious to go home or looked forward to his return with

great pleasure, but he was a man out of place, and had lost the natural

harmonies between the outer and the inner life. He had taken a house at

Rock Park, a suburb of Liverpool, but he could not make a home out of

it, and his account of his residence there gives the whole interior

atmosphere of his English stay.

"I remember to this day the dreary feeling with which I sat by our first

English fireside and watched the chill and rainy twilight of an autumn

day darkening down upon the garden, while the preceding occupant of the

house (evidently a most unamiable personage in his lifetime) scowled

inhospitably from above the mantelpiece, as if indignant that an

American should try to make himself at home there. Possibly it may

appease his sulky shade to know that I quitted his abode as much a

stranger as I entered it."

It is plain to see that he rather endured than enjoyed English life,

notwithstanding the true pleasures he found and the kind friends he

made. He was a stranger, taking a stranger's view and with much

suspicion of his surroundings, anticipating something hostile in them

and forestalling it with his own defenses not too friendly in aspect; in

a word he was a foreigner, and he never lost the sense of being in a

country not his own, to which he felt superior in all essential matters.

Some regret has been expressed that he did not come into closer contact

with English literary life, and especially with the more famous writers

of the day. He did not even make the acquaintance of Dickens, Thackeray,

Tennyson, Carlyle, George Eliot, to name the most important, nor was he

really introduced to the best intellectual life of England at all. He

met several second-rate writers, and he knew the Brownings more

particularly in Italy. It is not likely, however, that much was lost by

this failure to get into touch with the great masters of his own art or

with English thinkers and poets in general. Hawthorne had never cared

for such society in his own country, and it was probably by his own

choice that he missed the literary sets in London. The distaste that he

felt for society seems to have taken an aggravated form where his own

craft was concerned, whether through self-consciousness, or the memory

of his years of obscurity, or for whatever reason; perhaps he had known

authors enough at Concord and had no spirit of adventure left in that

direction. His own genius was solitary, and in his friendships literary

sympathy had no share, for he neither received nor gave it; in fact, if

he became familiar with an author, such as Thoreau or Ellery Channing or

Herman Melville, it was with the man, not the author. The terms on which

he stood with Longfellow and Emerson are those on which, at the

happiest, he might have met Thackeray, Tennyson, or Carlyle; but, though

speculation must be vain, it is far more probable that he would have

found little congeniality with any one of the three. Lord Houghton

appears to have made an effort to take him about, but with so little

success that he thought Hawthorne had taken a dislike to him. As it was,

Hawthorne saw quite enough, and more than he desired, of literary

England; it was mostly weariness to him.

It must be acknowledged that the manners and institutions of the

country, and its people for the most part, were little to Hawthorne's

taste, and he showed this in his book about them; but, for all that, he

found the country interesting and often lovely in its picturesque

antiquity and softnesses of light and color, and he appreciated to the

full the literary and historical sentiment that most appeals to

Americans of like education and breeding. He made many excursions in

different parts of England, and visited Scotland and the Isle of Man,

and he lingered in many towns and villages and was disposed to haunt old

places with a pilgrim devotion. He loved the face of the country, too,

and notwithstanding its misted and dreary skies, especially over

Liverpool, he found some good words for its weather, its seasons, its

long days, and all its out-door look. He went about with the mind and

senses of a tourist, satiating his instincts for minute and detailed

observation and writing it all down; in a spirit, too, of enjoyment and

discovery; and out of this satisfaction of his inveterate habits of

observing and noting and walking about with no other end in view, just

as if he were taking an autumn stroll in Salem, came the felicity of the

English notes, which after all deductions is very great in its own field

of delicate sentiment and realistic grasp and the atmosphere of a mind.

Hawthorne was thoroughly happy in indulging his wandering propensity in

such voyages of discovery; especially in London he found a city that

satisfied his idea of it, and he seems to have busied himself there for

days and weeks in merely going about from point to point and seeing the

spectacle of its vast and varied life. Hawthorne's English experiences

will, perhaps, be best realized, if he is thought of apart from

literature, as a man much identified with the shipping interests and

commercial society of Liverpool, and attending to this business rather

doggedly and wearily, not especially liking the place or the people,

whose ways and notions he was instinctively against, being himself a

settled New Englander of a strong race type; and yet, besides this, a

man who managed in his four years' residence to see a great deal of the

length and breadth of England, as a summer tourist might visit its

shrines on pilgrimage. This describes his life, nevertheless, only from

the outside; as soon as one opens his note-books, his personality

changes the impression, and pervades even his least sympathetic pages

with a human quality that wins on the reader in spite of all

reservations, and one sees how in the face of his prejudices and

limitations England was saved to him by his literary faculty, the

interests, susceptibilities, and powers that were his as a man of

letters. One finds in his experience, too, besides the consul and the

man of letters, a kindly and simple manhood of a more primitive element,

the human heart in its own original right, as in the well-known incident

of the workhouse child who was so strangely drawn to him. Of the humane

actions, however, of which any record remains, none is so honorable as

his considerateness, generosity, and conscientiousness in his

correspondence with Delia Bacon, whom he endured and befriended with

infinite patience and delicacy; the letters which he wrote to her show

his character in a very noble light, and bring out one side of his life

which has little illustration, his habitual thoughtfulness for the weak.

One recalls his care for his Brook Farm friend Farley at Concord, for

example; and all his relations with what one may call the wayside

acquaintance of life were to his honor.

One other incident must also find a place here, which completes an

earlier story and rounds out his own conception of integrity. On coming

to Liverpool he had incurred heavy expenses, but six months of his more

fortunate days had not gone by before he sent to Hillard the money which

his friends had given to him in his sore need at Salem while he was

writing "The Scarlet Letter." His own words best express the feelings

which led him to make this restitution:--

Liverpool, _December 9, 1853._

Dear Hillard,--I herewith send you a draft on Ticknor for the sum (with

interest included) which was so kindly given me by unknown friends,

through you, about four years ago.

I have always hoped and intended to do this, from the first moment when

I made up my mind to accept the money. It would not have been right to

speak of this purpose before it was in my power to accomplish it; but it

has never been out of my mind for a single day, nor hardly, I think, for

a single working hour. I am most happy that this loan (as I may fairly

call it, at this moment) can now be repaid without the risk on my part

of leaving my wife and children utterly destitute. I should have done it

sooner; but I felt that it would be selfish to purchase the great

satisfaction for myself, at any fresh risk to them. We are not rich, nor

are we ever likely to be; but the miserable pinch is over.

The friends who were so generous to me must not suppose that I have not

felt deeply grateful, nor that my delight at relieving myself from this

pecuniary obligation is of any ungracious kind. I have been grateful all

along, and am more so now than ever. This act of kindness did me an

unspeakable amount of good; for it came when I most needed to be assured

that anybody thought it worth while to keep me from sinking. And it did

me even greater good than this, in making me sensible of the need of

sterner efforts than my former ones, in order to establish a right for

myself to live and be comfortable. For it is my creed (and was so even

at that wretched time) that a man has no claim upon his

fellow-creatures, beyond bread and water and a grave, unless he can win

it by his own strength or skill. But so much the kinder were those

unknown friends whom I thank again with all my heart.

* * * * *

This money must have been the first he had saved, and he could now spare

it from his income. In the four years that he held the consulate he had

held to his main purpose of laying by a competency, and when he

resigned, on August 31, 1857, his mind was at ease with regard to the

future for himself and his family. His gratitude for this late won

independence, humble as it was, must have been deeply felt, as is

apparent from his letters at the time; a great weight had been lifted

from his spirit, and his happiness was such as only a man with his ideas

of personal independence could realize. He proposed now to linger in

Europe for some time longer; and when he was relieved from his duties in

the fall he went with the family through France to Italy, hoping that

the southern winter would be of benefit to Mrs. Hawthorne's still

uncertain health.

Life in Italy proved far more agreeable than it had been in England, and

there were periods in it when Hawthorne enjoyed as great happiness in

the placid course of the days as he ever experienced. For the first time

in his life he was free from the necessity of labor, and he had recently

escaped from that practical business of affairs and daily duties which

was always irksome to him. The change, too, from the dark skies of

England and its grimy Liverpool materialism to an atmosphere of sun and

warmth and artistic beauty was itself enough to reanimate his spirit;

and he found at once some congenial society, and not a few who seemed to

him like old friends. He appears for the first time in his life really

to live with other people, not as an occasional visitant coming out of

his hermitage, but as one of themselves. He sought out Story, who was an

old neighbor at Salem, though he had known him only slightly, and under

his guidance he mixed with the American artists then in Rome,--Miss

Hosmer, Thompson, Kopes, and Miss Lander,--as well as with others of the

foreigners resident there, Miss Bremer, Mrs. Jameson, and Bryant among

the rest; and he became good friends with Motley and his family, whose

companionship he enjoyed in a very natural, frank way. The picturesque

ruins of Home, its gardens and fountains and the sky and air appealed to

him, as if to new senses or at least to senses newly awakened and

developed; and he was sensibly attracted by the artistic works on every

hand. He was not wholly uncultivated in art, though his aesthetic sense

had been rather a hope than a reality all through his life. He had

written to his wife before marriage, nearly twenty years ago, "I never

owned a picture in my life; yet pictures have been among the earthly

possessions (and they are spiritual ones too) which I most coveted;" and

in his tales there is a recurring reference to pictures as a part of his

imaginative world. The influence of his wife's artistic tastes in his

home life had also been a kind of preparation for appreciation of the

masterpieces, many of which had long been familiar to his eyes and

thoughts in reproductions. In his Boston days he use to visit such

collections of pictures as were accessible to him, and he knew sculpture

somewhat through casts. Such cultivation, however, was at best a very

limited and incomplete preparation, and did not preserve him from the

tourist's weariness of galleries. He had wished in London that the Elgin

marbles had all been reduced to lime. There was something pictorial in

his genius, but painting was slower to give up its secrets to him than

sculpture, which, being a more abstract art and simpler in intention, as

well as nearer to the living form, made the easier appeal to him. He did

not respond to Italian painting very perfectly at the best, and his

education hardly proceeded farther than an appreciation of the softer

and brighter works of Guido and Raphael, nor did he ever free himself

from the intellectual prepossessions of his mind. He did not become even

an amateur in art, and he probably knew it; he had begun too late to

enter that world; and he contented himself with a moral sympathy, an

apprehension of idea and feeling, rather than the seeing eye and

understanding heart by which one takes possession of the artistic world

as a free citizen there. It was not an important matter, however; his

comments on art have only a personal interest, lighting up his own

nature; but, within his limits, he enjoyed a new and great experience,

one that illumined and softened his mind, in his wanderings about the

galleries and churches and his sittings in artists' studios. The

contemporary and native world of Italy he attended to but very little,

noting its picturesque aspects somewhat, but taking the slightest

interest in its people; if he had felt a barrier between himself and the

English, here was a gulf of difference that it was hopeless to attempt

to pass over, and he left the Italians in the inaccessible foreignness

in which he found them.

The first four months were spent at Rome, in this gradual opening of his

mind to the new impressions of the city, so fascinating to his

imagination, and in establishing himself and his family in the new

society of their daily life. Late in May, 1858, they went north by the

carriage road, and settled at Florence in the Casa Bella, near Casa

Guidi, where the Brownings were, and not far from Powers's studio. In

August they took possession of the old villa of MontaŁto on the hill of

Bellosguardo, near the city, which is so closely associated with

Hawthorne's Italian days as the tower of Monte Beni. Here he began to

write "The Marble Faun," shutting himself up for an hour or two every

day in the stern effort, as he describes it, of coming "to close grip

with a romance which I have been trying to tear out of my mind." The

scene of his labors was quite remote, such a place as he liked to have

to write in, and he was undisturbed unless it were by the Spiritualism

of the Browning villa, where Mrs. Browning was a believer; and, perhaps

under the influence of this association, Mrs. Hawthorne showed more

plainly her natural inclination to a more than curious interest in the

phenomena. She was, indeed, somewhat a believer in the power of

communication with the spiritual world, and its near presence and

influence in our lives. The seclusion of the villa of MontaŁto was very

grateful to Hawthorne, and he writes of it to Fields with almost a

home-feeling, as if he had again found a lodging place at least for his

wandering Penates:--

"It is pleasant to feel at last that I am really away from America--a

satisfaction that I never really enjoyed as long as I stayed in

Liverpool, where it seemed to me that the quintessence of nasal and

hand-shaking Yankeedom was gradually filtered and sublimated through my

consulate, on the way outward and homeward. I first got acquainted with

my own countrymen there. At Rome, too, it was not much better. But here

in Florence, and in the summer-time, and in this secluded villa, I have

escaped out of all my old tracks, and am really remote. I like my

present residence immensely. The house stands on a hill, overlooking

Florence, and is big enough to quarter a regiment, insomuch that each

member of the family, including servants, has a separate suite of

apartments, and there are vast wildernesses of upper rooms into which we

have never yet sent exploring expeditions. At one end of the house there

is a moss-grown tower, haunted by owls and by the ghost of a monk who

was confined there in the thirteenth century, previous to being burnt at

the stake in the principal square of Florence. I hire this villa, tower

and all, at twenty-eight dollars a month; but I mean to take it away

bodily and clap it into a romance, which I have in my head, ready to be

written out."

The kind of life that was led by the family is more vividly sketched by

his daughter in her reminiscences of the time, and her pages afford the

only full companion picture to those of the Old Manse and the Berkshire

cottage, and to some extent supply the lack of that autobiographic

background to "The Marble Faun" which the reader misses in Hawthorne's

own preface.

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