jigs, which was very amusing. The Irish is quite different from the
Scotch reel; not so animated, and the steps different, but very droll.
The people were very poorly dressed in thick coats, and the women in
shawls. There was one man who was a regular specimen of an Irishman,
with his hat on one ear. Others in blue coats, with short breeches and
blue stockings. There were three old and tattered pipers playing. The
Irish pipe is very different from the Scotch; it is very weak, and
they don’t blow into it, but merely have small bellows which they move
with the arm. We walked round the pleasure-grounds, and after this got
into a carriage with the Duke and Duchess--our ladies and gentlemen
following in a large jaunting-car, and the people riding, running, and
driving with us, but extremely well-behaved; and the Duke is so kind to
them, that a word from him will make them do anything. It was very hot,
and yet the people kept running the whole way, and in the thick woollen
coats, which it seems they always wear here. We drove along the park
to a spot which commands an extensive view of the _Wicklow Hills_.
We then went down an entirely new road, cut out of the solid rock,
through a beautiful valley, full of the finest trees, growing among
rocks close to a piece of water. We got out and walked across a little
wooden bridge to a very pretty little cottage, entirely ornamented with
shells, &c. by the Duchess. We drove back in the jaunting-car, which is
a double one, with four wheels, and held a number of us--I sitting on
one side between Albert and the Duke; the Duchess, Lady Jocelyn, Lord
Clarendon, and Lady Waterford on the opposite side; George at the back,
and the equerries on either side of the coachman.
As soon as we returned to the house we took leave of our hosts, and
went back to the _Phœnix Park_ a different way from the one we came,
along the banks of the _Liffey_, through Mr. Colson’s park, in which
there were the most splendid beeches I have ever seen--feathering down
quite to the ground; and farther along the road and river were some
lovely sycamore-trees. We drove through the village of _Lucan_, where
there were fine decorations and arches of bays and laurel. We passed
below _The Strawberry-beds_, which are really curious to see--quite
high banks of them--and numbers of people come from _Dublin_ to eat
these strawberries; and there are rooms at the bottom of these banks on
purpose. We were home a little after five.
_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in Loch Ryan, Sunday, August 12._
We arrived after a dreadfully rough though very short passage, and have
taken refuge here. To return to Friday. We left the _Phœnix Park_,
where we had spent so pleasant a time, at six o’clock, Lord Clarendon
and the two elder children going in the carriage with us, and drove
with an escort to the Dublin Railway Station. The town was immensely
crowded, and the people most enthusiastic. George met us there, and
we took him, the Clarendons, and Lord Lansdowne and our ladies in the
carriage with us. We arrived speedily at _Kingstown_, where there
were just as many people and as much enthusiasm as on the occasion of
our disembarkation. We stood on the paddle-box as we slowly steamed
out of _Kingstown_, amidst the cheers of thousands and thousands, and
salutes from all the ships; and I waved my handkerchief as a parting
acknowledgment of their loyalty. We soon passed _Howth_ and _Ireland’s
Eye_. The ship was very steady, though the sea was not smooth, and the
night thick and rainy, and we feared a storm was coming on.
_Saturday, August 11._
We reached _Belfast Harbour_ at four o’clock. The wind had got up
amazingly, and the morning was a very bad and stormy one.
We had not had a very quiet night for sleeping, though very smooth. The
weather got worse and worse, and blew a real gale; and it was quite
doubtful whether we could start as we had intended, on our return from
_Belfast_, for _Scotland_.
We saw the Mayor and General (Bainbrigg), who had come on board after
breakfast.
At a quarter-past one we started with the ladies and gentlemen for the
“Fairy.” Though we had only two minutes’ row in the barge, there was
such a swell that the getting in and out, and the rolling and tossing
in the boat, were very disagreeable. We had to keep in the little
pavilion, as the squalls were so violent as to cover the “Fairy” with
spray. We passed between _Holywood_ and _Carrickfergus_, celebrated for
the first landing of William III. We reached _Belfast_ in half an hour,
and fortunately the sun came out.
We lay close alongside the wharf, where a very fine landing-place
was arranged, and where thousands were assembled. Lord Londonderry
came on board, and numerous deputations with addresses, including the
Mayor (whom I knighted), the Protestant Bishop of Down and clergy,
the Catholic Bishop Denvir (an excellent and modest man), the Sheriff
and Members for the county, with Lord Donegal (to whom the greater
part of _Belfast_ belongs), Dr. Henry, from the new College, and the
Presbyterians (of whom there are a great many here). Lady Londonderry
and her daughter also came on board. There was some delay in getting
the gang-board down, as they had made much too large a one. Some
planks on board were arranged, and we landed easily in this way.
The landing-place was covered in, and very tastefully decorated.
We got into Lord Londonderry’s carriage with the two ladies, and
Lord Londonderry himself got on the rumble behind with the two
sergeant-footmen, Renwick and Birbage, both very tall, large men; and
the three must have been far from comfortable.
The town was beautifully decorated with flowers, hangings, and very
fine triumphal arches, the galleries full of people; and the reception
very hearty. The people are a mixture of nations, and the female beauty
had almost disappeared.
I have all along forgotten to say that the favourite motto written
up on most of the arches, &c., and in every place, was: “Cead mile
failte,” which means “A hundred thousand welcomes” in Irish, which is
very like Gaelic; it is in fact _the_ language, and has existed in
books from the earliest period, whereas Gaelic has only been _written_
since half a century, though it was always _spoken_. They often called
out, “Cead mile failte!” and it appears in every sort of shape.
Lord Donegal rode on one side of the carriage and the General on the
other. We stopped at the _Linen Hall_ to see the exhibition of the
flax and linen manufacture. Lord Downshire and several other gentlemen
received us there, and conducted us through the different rooms, where
we saw the whole process in its different stages. First the plant,
then the flax after being steeped; then the spun flax; lastly, the
linen, cambric, and cloth of every sort and kind. It is really very
interesting to see, and it is wonderful to what a state of perfection
it has been brought.
We got into our carriages again. This time Lord Londonderry did not
attempt to resume his uncomfortable position.
We went along through the _Botanic Garden_, and stopped and got out
to look at the new College which is to be opened in October. It is
a handsome building. We passed through several of the streets and
returned to the place of embarkation. _Belfast_ is a fine town, with
some good buildings--for instance, the _Bank_ and _Exchange_,--and is
considered the _Liverpool_ and _Manchester_ of _Ireland_.
I have forgotten to mention the Constabulary, who are a remarkably fine
body of men, 13,000 in number (altogether in _Ireland_), all Irish, and
chiefly Roman Catholics; and not one of whom, during the trying times
last year, fraternised with the rebels.
We left amid immense cheering, and reached the “Victoria and Albert” at
half-past six. It was blowing as hard as ever, and the getting in and
out was as disagreeable as before. We decided on spending the night
where we were, unless the wind should drop by three or four o’clock in
the morning. Many bonfires were lighted on the surrounding hills and
coasts.
_Sunday, August 12._
The weather no better, and as there seemed no hope of its improvement,
we decided on starting at two o’clock, and proceeding either to _Loch
Ryan_ or _Lamlash_. Lord Adolphus read the service at half-past ten, at
which the two eldest children were also present.
I intend to create Bertie “Earl of Dublin,” as a compliment to the town
and country; he has no Irish title, though he is _born_ with several
Scotch ones (belonging to the heirs to the Scotch throne, and which we
have inherited from James VI. of Scotland and I. of England); and this
was one of my father’s titles.
The preparations on deck for the voyage were not encouraging; the boats
hoisted up, the accommodation ladders drawn quite close up, every piece
of carpet removed, and everything covered; and, indeed, my worst fears
were realized. We started at two, and I went below and lay down shortly
after, and directly we got out of the harbour the yacht began rolling
for the first three-quarters of an hour, in a way which was dreadful,
and there were two rolls, when the waves broke over the ship, which I
never shall forget. It got gradually better, and at five we entered
_Loch Ryan_, truly thankful to be at the end of our voyage. Albert came
down to me and then I went up on deck, and he told me how awful it had
been. The first great wave which came over the ship threw everybody
down in every direction. Poor little Affie[60] was thrown down and sent
rolling over the deck, and was drenched, for the deck was swimming with
water. Albert told me it was quite frightful to see the enormous waves
rising like a wall above the sides of the ship. We did not anchor so
high up in _Loch Ryan_ as we had done two years ago; but it was a very
safe quiet anchorage, and we were very glad to be there. Albert went on
shore.
[60] Prince Alfred.
_Monday, August 13._
We started at four o’clock in the morning, and the yacht rolled a
little, but the motion was an easy one. We were in the _Clyde_ by
breakfast-time, but the day was very bad, constant squalls hiding the
scenery. We left _Greenock_ to our left, and proceeded a little way
up _Loch Goil_, which opens into _Loch Long_, and is very fine; it
seems extraordinary to have such deep water in a narrow loch and so
immediately below the mountains, which are very rocky. We turned back
and went up _Loch Long_, which I remembered so well, and which is so
beautiful. We let go the anchor at _Arrochar_, the head of the lake,
intending to land and proceed to _Loch Lomond_, where a steamer was
waiting for us; but it poured with rain most hopelessly. We waited an
hour in vain, and decided on stopping till after luncheon and making
the attempt at three o’clock. We lunched and stepped into the boat,
as it had cleared a little; but just then it began pouring again more
violently than before, and we put back much disappointed, but Albert
persevered, and he went off with Mr. Anson, Sir James Clark, and
Captain Robinson almost directly afterwards. Just then it cleared and I
felt so vexed that we had not gone; but there have been some terrible
showers since. We left _Arrochar_ a little before four, _Loch Long_
looking beautiful as we returned.
_Perth, Tuesday, August 14._
We anchored yesterday in _Roseneath Bay_, close to _Roseneath_--a very
pretty spot--and looking towards the mountains which you see in _Loch
Goil_. One of them is called “The Duke of Argyll’s Bowling-green.”
Albert only returned soon after eight o’clock, having been able to see
a good deal of _Loch Lomond_, and even _Rob Roy’s Cave_, in spite of
heavy showers. Captain Beechey (who was with us during the whole voyage
in ’47, and again the whole of this one to pilot us), Captain Crispin,
and Captain Robinson (who met us this morning and piloted Albert in
_Loch Lomond_, and did the same for us in ’47), dined with us also, and
we had much interesting conversation about the formation of glaciers,
&c., in all of which Captain Beechey (who is a very intelligent man,
and has been all over the world) took part. He was with Sir Edward
Parry at the _North Pole_, and told us that they had not seen daylight
for four months. They heaped up snow over the ship and covered it in
with boards to keep the cold off.
_Balmoral, Wednesday, August 15._
It seems like a dream to be here in our dear Highland home again; it
certainly does not seem as if it were a year since we were here! Now I
must describe the doings of yesterday. We embarked on board the “Fairy”
at a quarter to nine o’clock, and proceeded up the _Clyde_ in pouring
rain and high wind, and it was very stormy till after we had passed
_Greenock_. We steamed past _Port Glasgow_, then came _Dumbarton_
and _Erskine_. The river narrows and winds extraordinarily here, and
you do not see _Glasgow_ until you are quite close upon it. As we
approached, the banks were lined with people, either on estrades or on
the sea-shore, and it was amusing to see all those on the shore take
flight, often too late, as the water bounded up from the swell caused
by the steamer.
The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up, just as we reached
_Glasgow_, about eleven, and continued fine for the remainder of the
day. Several addresses were presented on board, first by the Lord
Provost, who was knighted, (Colonel Gordon’s sword being used,) then
one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and Free Kirk),
and from the Houses of Commerce. We landed immediately after this;
the landing-place was very handsomely decorated. We then entered our
carriage with the two eldest children, the two others following. Mr.
Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff) rode on one side
of the carriage, and General Riddell (the Commander of the Forces in
Scotland) on the other. The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but
excellent order was kept and they were very enthusiastic. Mr. Alison
said that there were 500,000 people out. The town is a handsome one
with fine streets built in stone, and many fine buildings and churches.
We passed over a bridge commanding an extensive view down two quays,
which Albert said was very like _Paris_. There are many large shops and
warehouses, and the shipping is immense.
We went up to the old cathedral, where Principal Mac Farlane, a very
old man, received us, and directed our attention, as we walked through
the church gates, to an immensely high chimney, the highest I believe
in existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories. The cathedral
is a very fine one, the choir of which is fitted up as a Presbyterian
church. We were shown the crypt and former burial-place of the bishops,
which is in a very high state of preservation. The architecture is
beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in _Rob Roy_ is
laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone warning that he is in
danger. There is an old monument of St. Kentigern, commonly called St.
Mungo, the founder of the cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and
went to the _University_, an ancient building, and which has produced
many great and learned men. Here we got out and received an address.
We only stopped a few minutes, and then went on again towards the
_Exchange_, in front of which is Marochetti’s equestrian statue of the
Duke of Wellington, very like and beautifully executed. We got out at
the railway station and started almost immediately.
We passed _Stirling_ in the distance, and a little before four we
reached _Perth_, where the people were very friendly. We took the four
children in our carriage and drove straight to the “George Inn,” where
we had the same rooms that we had last time.
Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at six we drove
together along the _London Road_ (as they rather strangely call it),
towards _Moncrieffe_. The view was perfectly beautiful, and is the
finest of _Perth_ and the grand bridge over the _Tay_.
_Wednesday, August 15._
At a quarter to eight o’clock we started. The two boys and Vicky were
in the carriage with us, Alice followed with the ladies. It was a long
journey, but through very beautiful scenery. We saw the _Grampians_ as
we left _Perth_. We first changed horses at _Blairgowrie_, 15 miles.
Then came a very long stage of 20 miles, to the _Spittal of Glenshee_.
We first passed the house of a Lieut.-Colonel Clark Rattray, called
_Craig Hall_, overhanging a valley or glen above which we drove,
and after this we came into completely wild Highland scenery, with
barren rocky hills, through which the road winds to the _Spittal of
Glenshee_, which can scarcely be called a village, for it consists of
only an inn and two or three cottages. We got out at the inn, where
we found Mr. Farquharson and his son, and some of his men. Here we
had some luncheon, and then set off again. The next stage of 15 miles
to _Castleton_ is over a very bad, and at night, positively dangerous
road, through wild, grand scenery, with very abrupt turns and steep
ascents. One sharp turn is called _The Devil’s Elbow_. The Farquharson
men joined us again here, some having gone on before, and others having
followed from the inn, skipping over stones and rocks with the rapidity
and lightness peculiar to Highlanders. They remained with us till we
were able to trot on again.
We drove through a very fine pass called _Cairn Wall_ and were
overtaken by a heavy shower. When we reached _Castleton_ the day had
cleared, and we were able to open the carriage again. Here we were
met by Sir Alexander Duff and the Duke of Leeds at the head of their
men. Lady Duff, Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff, Miss Farquharson, and several
of the children, and the Duchess of Leeds, came up to the carriage.
The drive from _Castleton_ to _Balmoral_, particularly the beautiful
part from the _Balloch Buie_, was well known to us; and it was a great
pleasure to see it all again in its beauty. Grant had met us at the
_Spittal of Glenshee_, and ridden the whole way with us. At the door at
_Balmoral_ were Mackay, who was playing, and Macdonald in full dress.
It was about four when we arrived.
YACHTING EXCURSION.
_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Dartmouth, Thursday, August 20, 1846._
We steamed past the various places on the beautiful coast of
_Devonshire_ which we had passed three years ago--_Seaton_, _Sidmouth_,
off which we stopped for ten minutes, _Axmouth_, _Teignmouth_,
&c.;--till we came to _Babbicombe_, a small bay, where we remained
an hour. It is a beautiful spot, which before we had only passed at
a distance. Red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like _Italy_, and
reminding one of a ballet or play where nymphs are to appear--such
rocks and grottos, with the deepest sea, on which there was not a
ripple. We intended to disembark and walk up the hill; but it came on
to rain very much, and we could not do so. We tried to sketch the part
looking towards _Torbay_. I never saw our good children looking better,
or in higher spirits. I contrived to give Vicky a little lesson, by
making her read in her English history.
We proceeded on our course again at half-past one o’clock, and saw
_Torquay_ very plainly, which is very fine. The sea looked so stormy
and the weather became so thick that it was thought best to give
up _Plymouth_ (for the third time), and to put into that beautiful
_Dartmouth_, and we accordingly did so, in pouring rain, the deck
swimming with water, and all of us with umbrellas; the children being
most anxious to see everything. Notwithstanding the rain, this place is
lovely, with its wooded rocks and church and castle at the entrance.
It puts me much in mind of the beautiful _Rhine_, and its fine ruined
castles, and the _Lurlei_.
I am now below writing, and crowds of boats are surrounding us on all
sides.
_Plymouth Harbour, Friday, August 21._
We got under weigh by half-past six o’clock, and on looking out we
saw the sea so calm and blue and the sun so bright that we determined
to get up. It was a very fine day, but there was a great deal of
swell. At length at half-past nine we entered the splendid harbour of
_Plymouth_, and anchored again below _Mount Edgcumbe_; which, with its
beautiful trees, including pines, growing down into the sea, looks more
lovely than ever. I changed my dress and read innumerable letters and
despatches, and then went on deck and saw the authorities--the Admirals
and Generals. I did Vicky’s lessons and wrote; and at half-past one we
went on board the “Fairy,” (leaving the children on board the “Victoria
and Albert,”) with all our ladies and gentlemen, as well as Sir James
Clark, who has joined us here. We steamed up the _Tamar_, going first
a little way up the _St. Germans_ river, which has very prettily
wooded banks. _Trematon Castle_ to the right, which belongs to Bertie
as Duke of Cornwall, and _Jats_ to the left, are extremely pretty.
We stopped here and afterwards turned back and went up the _Tamar_,
which at first seemed flat; but as we proceeded the scenery became
quite beautiful--richly wooded hills, the trees growing down into the
water, and the river winding so much as to have the effect of a lake.
In this it reminded me so much of going up the _Rhine_,--though I
don’t think the river resembles the _Rhine_. Albert thought it like
the _Danube_. The finest parts begin about _Saltash_, which is a small
but prettily built town. To the right as you go up all is un-English
looking; a little further on is the mouth of the _Tavy_; here the
river becomes very beautiful. We passed numbers of mines at work.
Further on, to the left, we came to _Pentillie Castle_ situated on a
height most beautifully wooded down to the water’s edge, and the river
winding rapidly above and below it. Albert said it reminded him of the
situation of _Greinburg_ on the _Danube_. Not much further on we came
to the picturesque little village and landing-place of _Cothele_, at
the foot of a thickly-wooded bank, with a valley on one side. Here
the river is very narrow. We landed, and drove up a steep hill under
fine trees to the very curious old _House of Cothele_, where we got
out of the carriage. It is most curious in every way--as it stands in
the same state as it was in the time of Henry VII. and is in great
preservation--the old rooms hung with arras, &c.
We drove down another way under beautiful trees and above the fine
valley; embarked and proceeded down the river. The evening was
beautiful, the sun bright, and the sky and sea so blue. We arrived
just too late for the launch of the frigate “Thetis.” It reminded
me so much of when we were here three years ago, as we approached
our yacht, surrounded by myriads of boats, and had to row through
them in our barge. We returned at half-past five. The evening was
delightful--clear, calm, and cloudless, but a good deal of noise in the
boats around us. Lord and Lady Mount Edgcumbe and Sir James Clark dined
with us.
_Plymouth, Saturday, August 22._
Albert was up at six o’clock, as he was to go to _Dartmoor Forest_.
At ten I went in the barge with the two children, the ladies, Baron
Stockmar, and Lord Alfred Paget, and landed at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where
we were received by Lady Mount Edgcumbe, her two boys, her sister and
nieces, and beyond the landing-place by Lord Mount Edgcumbe. There were
crowds where we landed, and I feel so shy and put out without Albert.
I got into a carriage with the children and Lady Mount Edgcumbe--Lord
Mount Edgcumbe going before us and the others following--and took a
lovely drive along the road which overhangs the bay, commanding such
beautiful views on all sides, and going under and by such fine trees.
We had been there three years ago; but it is always a pleasure to see
it again. The day very hot and a little hazy. We came to the house at
eleven. The children went with their governess and the other children
into the shade and had luncheon in the house, and I remained in the
gallery--a very pretty room, with some fine pictures, and with a door
opening on the garden, and commanding a lovely little bit of sea view,
which I tried to sketch. A little after twelve we returned to the
yacht, which had been beset with boats ever since six in the morning.
Albert returned safely to me at one o’clock, much pleased with his
trip; and said that _Dartmoor Forest_ was like _Scotland_.