again to the landing-place at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where we were received
as before, and drove up to the house. There are some of the finest and
tallest chestnut-trees in existence here, and the beech-trees grow very
peculiarly--quite tall and straight--the branches growing upwards.
We walked about the gallery and looked into Lady Mount Edgcumbe’s
little room at one end of it, which is charming, and full of pretty
little things which she has collected, and then we took luncheon in
a room where there are some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
They are all of the Mount Edgcumbe family, one of whom was his great
patron. Sir Joshua was born a few miles from _Plymouth_. There are in
the same room pictures by him when he first began to paint, which have
kept their colour; then when he made experiments--and these are quite
faded; and again of his works when he discovered his mistakes, and the
colour of his pictures is then beautiful. We walked about the garden
near the house, and then drove to the “Kiosk,” by beautiful stone pines
and pinasters, which interested Albert very much, and put me so much
in mind of Mr. Lear’s drawings. The view from this “Kiosk,” which is
very high over the sea and town, is most beautiful, and the sea was
like glass, not a ripple to be seen. We walked down a very pretty road
or path through the woods and trees till we met the carriage, and we
drove along that beautiful road, which is said to be a little like
the _Cornice_, overhanging the sea, down to the place of embarkation,
where we took leave of them all, and returned to our yacht by half-past
four. Poor Lord Mount Edgcumbe is in such a sad, helpless state; but so
patient and cheerful. We went on board just to fetch the children, and
then on to the “Fairy,” and steamed in her round the harbour, or rather
bay, in which there are such pretty spots; into the _Cat Water_, from
whence we rowed in one of the barges a little way up the river to look
at _Saltram_, Lord Morley’s; after that back to the “Fairy,” went in
her into _Mill Bay_, _Sutton Pool_, and _Stonehouse_, and returned to
the yacht by half-past six.
_In Guernsey Bay, off St. Pierre, Guernsey,
Sunday, August 23._
On waking, the morning was so lovely that we could not help regretting
that we could not delay our trip a little, by one day at least, as
the Council which was to have been on the 25th is now on the 29th.
We thought, however, we could do nothing but sail for _Torbay_, at
half-past nine, and for _Osborne_ on Monday. While dressing, I kept
thinking whether we could not manage to see _Falmouth_, or something
or other. Albert thought we might perhaps manage to see one of
the _Channel Islands_, and accordingly he sent for Lord Adolphus
Fitzclarence, and it was settled that we should go to _Guernsey_, which
delighted me, as I had so long wished to see it. The day splendid. The
General and Admiral came on board to take leave. Sir J. West is the
Admiral, and General Murray, the General; and at about half-past nine
we set off, and the sea the whole way was as calm as it was in ’43.
_Plymouth_ is beautiful, and we shall always be delighted to return
there.
For two hours we were in expectation of seeing land; but it was very
hazy, and they did not know where we were--till about six, when land
was seen by the “Fairy,” who came to report it, and then all the other
vessels went on before us. As we approached we were struck by the
beauty of the _Guernsey_ coast, in which there are several rocky bays,
and the town of _St. Pierre_ is very picturesquely built, down to the
water’s edge. You see _Sark_ (or _Sercq_) as you enter the harbour to
the right, and further on, close opposite _St. Pierre_, two islands
close together--_Herm_ and _Jethou_. The bay with these fine islands is
really most curious. We anchored at seven, immediately opposite _St.
Pierre_, and with the two islands on the other side of us. We dined at
eight, and found on going on deck the whole town illuminated, which
had a very pretty effect, and must have been done very quickly, for
they had no idea of our coming. It is built like a foreign town. The
people speak mostly French amongst themselves.
_August 24._
_St. Pierre_ is very picturesque-looking--with very high,
bright-coloured houses built down almost into the sea. The College
and Church are very conspicuous buildings. This island with its bold
point, and the little one of _Cornet_ with a sort of castle on it
(close to which we were anchored), and the three islands of _Herm_,
_Jethou_, and _Sark_, with innumerable rocks, are really very fine
and peculiar,--especially as they then were in bright sunlight. We
both sketched, and at a quarter to nine got into our barge with our
ladies. The pier and shore were lined with crowds of people, and with
ladies dressed in white, singing “God save the Queen,” and strewing the
ground with flowers. We walked to our carriage, preceded by General
Napier, brother to Sir Charles (in _Scinde_), a very singular-looking
old man, tall and thin, with an aquiline nose, piercing eyes, and
white moustaches and hair. The people were extremely well-behaved and
friendly, and received us very warmly as we drove through the narrow
streets, which were decorated with flowers and flags, and lined with
the _Guernsey_ militia, 2,000 strong, with their several bands. Some of
the militia were mounted.
The vegetation beyond the town is exceedingly fine; and the evergreens
and flowers most abundant. The streets and hills steep, and the view
from the fort, which is very high, (and where General Napier presented
me with the keys,) is extremely beautiful. You look over the bay of
_Guernsey_, and see opposite to you the islands of _Herm_, _Jethou_,
and _Sark_; with _Alderney_, and the coast of _France_, _Cape de la
Hague_, to the left in the distance, and to the right in the distance,
_Jersey_. The island appears very flourishing. In the town they speak
English, but in the country French, and this is the same in all the
islands. They belonged to the Duchy of Normandy, and have been in our
possession ever since William the Conqueror’s time. King John[61] was
the last of their sovereigns who visited them. We drove along the pier,
and then embarked amidst great cheering. It was all admirably managed;
the people are extremely loyal.
[61] For King John’s visit, see Roger de Wendover, a contemporary
chronicler.--ED.
We got under weigh a little before one and in about an hour-and-a-half
we came close to _Alderney_, seeing all the time the French coast,
_Cape de la Hague_, very plainly to our right, and leaving the
_Casquets Lights_ to our left. _Alderney_ is quite different from all
the other islands, excessively rocky and barren, and the rocks in and
under the sea are most frightful.
SECOND YACHTING EXCURSION.
_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Off St. Heliers, Jersey,
Wednesday, September 2, 1846._
At a quarter-past seven o’clock we set off with Vicky, Bertie, Lady
Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord Spencer, Lord Palmerston,
and Sir James Clark (Mr. Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the
“Black Eagle”), and embarked at _Osborne Pier_. There was a good
deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At twelve we saw
_Alderney_, and between two and three got into the _Alderney Race_,
where there was a great deal of rolling, but not for long. We passed
between _Alderney_ and the French coast--_Cape de la Hague_--and saw
the other side of _Alderney_; and then, later, _Sark_, _Guernsey_,
and the other islands. After passing the _Alderney Race_, it became
quite smooth; and then Bertie put on his sailor’s dress, which was
beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he
appeared, the officers and sailors, who were all assembled on deck to
see him, cheered, and seemed delighted with him.
The coast of _Jersey_ is very beautiful, and we had to go nearly all
round, in order to get to _St. Heliers_. We first passed the point
called _Rondnez_, then _Grosnez_ with a tower, _St. Ouen’s Bay_, _La
Rocca_, a curious old tower on a rock, and then _Brelade’s Bay_. The
red cliffs and rocks, with the setting sun gilding and lighting them
all up, were beautiful. At last, at a quarter to seven, we arrived in
this fine large bay of _St. Aubin_, in which lies _St. Heliers_; and
after dinner we went on deck to see the illumination and the bonfires.
_Off St. Heliers,
Thursday, September 3._
A splendid day. I never saw a more beautiful deep blue sea, quite like
_Naples_; and Albert said that this fine bay of _St. Aubin_, in which
we lie, really is like the _Bay of Naples_. _Noirmont Point_ terminates
in a low tower to our left, with _St. Aubin_ and a tower on a rock
in front of it; farther in, and to our right, _Elizabeth Castle_, a
picturesque fort on a rock, with the town of _St. Heliers_ behind it.
The colouring and the effect of light were indescribably beautiful.
We got into our barge with our ladies and gentlemen, and then went on
board the “Fairy,” until we were close to the harbour, and then we
got into the barge again. We landed at the stairs of the _Victoria
Harbour_, amid the cheers of the numberless crowds, guns firing, and
bands playing; were received, as at _Guernsey_, by all the ladies
of the town, very gaily dressed, who, strewing flowers on our way,
conducted us to a canopy, where I received the address of the States
and of the militia.
We then got into our carriage and drove along the pier; Colonel Le
Couteur, my militia aide-de-camp, riding by my side, with other
officers, and by Albert’s side Colonel Le Breton, commanding the
militia, who, 5,000 strong, lined the streets, and were stationed
along the pier. The States walking in front. The crowds were immense,
but everything in excellent order, and the people most enthusiastic,
though not more so than the good _Guernsey_ people; the town is much
larger, and they had much longer time for preparations; the decorations
and arches of flowers were really beautifully done, and there were
numberless kind inscriptions. All the country people here speak French,
and so did the police who walked near us. It was a very gratifying
reception. There was a seat in one of the streets filled by Frenchwomen
from _Granville_, curiously dressed with white handkerchiefs on their
heads. After passing through several streets we drove up to the
_Government House_, but did not get out. General Gibbs, the Governor,
is very infirm.
We then proceeded at a quicker pace--the walking procession having
ceased--through the interior of the island, which is extremely pretty
and very green,--orchards without end, as at _Mayence_. We passed the
curious old tower of _La Hougue Bie_, of very ancient date, and went
to the _Castle of Mont Orgueil_, in _Grouville Bay_, very beautifully
situated, completely overhanging the sea, and where Robert, Duke of
Normandy, son of William the Conqueror, is said to have lived.[62]
We walked part of the way up, and from one of the batteries, where
no guns are now mounted, you command the bay, and the French coast
is distinctly seen, only 13 miles distant. The people are very proud
that _Mont Orgueil_ had never been taken; but I have since learnt it
was taken by surprise and held for a few days; _Guernsey_, however,
_never_ was taken.[63]
[62] Mont Orgueil was also called Gouray Castle. Duke Robert the
Second, the Conqueror’s son, lived at Gouray Castle in Normandy: Duke
Robert the First, commonly called “Robert le Diable,” was in Jersey for
twelve days; and, during that time, probably occupied Gouray Castle in
that island. Hence may have arisen the tradition of Robert the Second
having lived there, of which there is no evidence.--ED.
[63] The public Records certainly state that Guernsey was taken by the
French in 1339. But the same records show that it was again in the
possession of the English as early as January 1340. The tradition,
therefore, “that Guernsey never was taken,” may be true, as the
occupation by the French might only have been partial--viz., of Castle
Cornet and the vicinity; and this might have been magnified, by report
in England, into a conquest of the whole island. Popular traditions,
contradicted at first by documentary evidence, are often eventually
found to be true. Everything depends upon the meaning of the words
“taken” and “conquered.” It could hardly have been said that England
had been “conquered” by the Normans, while the gallant Hereward held
out in the Isle of Ely.--ED.
We then returned to our carriage, and proceeded to the pier by a
shorter road, and through a different part of the town. There is a
peculiar elm-tree in the island, which is very pretty, and unlike any
other,--the leaf and the way it grows almost resembling the acacia. The
crowd was very great and the heat very intense in going back.
We re-embarked in the barge, but had only to go a few yards to the
“Fairy.” The situation of the harbour is very fine,--and crowned with
the fort, and covered by numbers of people, was like an amphitheatre.
The heat of the sun, and the glare, had made me so ill and giddy that I
remained below the greater part of the afternoon, and Albert went out
for an hour on the “Fairy.”
_Falmouth Harbour, Friday, September 4._
A beautiful day again, with the same brilliantly blue sea. At a quarter
to eight o’clock we got under weigh. There was a great deal of motion
at first, and for the greater part of the day the ship pitched, but
getting up the sails steadied her. From five o’clock it became quite
smooth; at half-past five we saw land, and at seven we entered
_Falmouth Harbour_, where we were immediately surrounded by boats. The
evening was beautiful and the sea as smooth as glass, and without even
a ripple. The calmest night possible, with a beautiful moon, when we
went on deck; every now and then the splashing of oars and the hum of
voices were heard; but they were the only sounds, unlike the constant
dashing of the sea against the vessel, which we heard all the time we
were at _Jersey_.
_Mount’s Bay, Cornwall, Saturday, September 5._
At eight o’clock we left _Falmouth_ and proceeded along the coast of
_Cornwall_, which becomes bold and rugged beyond the _Lizard Point_ and
as one approaches _Land’s End_. At about twelve we passed _Land’s End_,
which is very fine and rocky, the view from thence opening beautifully.
We passed quite close by the _Longships_, some rocks on which stands a
lighthouse. The sea was unusually smooth for the _Land’s End_. We went
beyond a point with some rocks near it, called _The Brisons_, and then
steamed back; the famous Botallack mine lies here. A little before two
we landed in this beautiful _Mount’s Bay_, close below _St. Michael’s
Mount_, which is very fine. When the bay first opened to our view the
sun was lighting up this beautiful castle, so peculiarly built on a
lofty rock, and which forms an island at high water.
[Illustration]
In entering the bay we passed the small village of _Mousehole_ and the
town of _Penzance_, which is prettily situated, about one mile and a
half from _St. Michael’s Mount_. The day brightened just as we arrived,
and the sea again became so blue.
Soon after our arrival we anchored; the crowd of boats was beyond
everything; numbers of Cornish pilchard fishermen, in their curious
large boats, kept going round and round, and then anchored, besides
many other boats full of people. They are a very noisy, talkative race,
and speak a kind of English hardly to be understood.
During our voyage I was able to give Vicky her lessons. At three
o’clock we all got into the barge, including the children and Mdlle.
Gruner, their governess, and rowed through an avenue of boats of all
descriptions to the “Fairy,” where we went on board. The getting in
and out of the barge was no easy task. There was a good deal of swell,
and the “Fairy” herself rolled amazingly. We steamed round the bay
to look at _St. Michael’s Mount_ from the other side, which is even
more beautiful, and then went on to _Penzance_. Albert landed near
_Penzance_ with all the gentlemen, except Lord Spencer (who is most
agreeable, efficient, and useful at sea, being a Captain of the Navy)
and Colonel Grey, and went to see the smelting of copper and tin,
and the works in serpentine stone at _Penzance_. We remained here
a little while without going on, in order to sketch, and returned
to the “Victoria and Albert” by half-past four, the boats crowding
round us in all directions; and when Bertie showed himself the people
shouted:—“Three cheers for the Duke of Cornwall!” Albert returned a
little before seven, much gratified by what he had seen, and bringing
home specimens of the serpentine stone.
_Mount’s Bay, Sunday, September 6._
A hazy, dull-looking morning, but as calm as it possibly could be.
At half-past eight o’clock we got into our barge, with Miss Kerr and
Lord Spencer, and proceeded without any standard to the little harbour
below _St. Michael’s Mount_. Behind _St. Michael’s Mount_ is the little
town of _Marazion_, or “Market Jew,” which is supposed to have taken
its name from the Jews having in former times trafficked there. We
disembarked and walked up the _Mount_ by a circuitous rugged path over
rocks and turf, and entered the old castle, which is beautifully kept,
and must be a nice house to live in; as there are so many good rooms
in it. The dining-room, made out of the refectory, is very pretty; it
is surrounded by a frieze, representing ancient hunting. The chapel is
excessively curious. The organ is much famed; Albert played a little on
it, and it sounded very fine. Below the chapel is a dungeon, where some
years ago was discovered the skeleton of a large man without a coffin;
the entrance is in the floor of one of the pews. Albert went down
with Lord Spencer, and afterwards went with him and Sir James Clark
(who, with Lord Palmerston and Colonel Grey, had joined us,) up to the
tower, on the top of which is “St. Michael’s chair,” which, it is said,
betrothed couples run up to, and whoever gets first into the chair will
have at home the government of the house; and the old housekeeper--a
nice tidy old woman--said many a couple “does go there!” though Albert
and Lord Spencer said it was the awkwardest place possible to get at.
_St. Michael’s Mount_ belongs to Sir J. St. Aubyn. There were several
drawings there of _Mont St. Michel_ in _Normandy_, which is very like
this one; and was, I believe, inhabited by the same order of monks as
this was, _i.e._ Benedictines. We walked down again, had to step over
another boat in order to get into our barge, as the tide was so very
low, and returned on board the yacht before ten.
The view from the top of _St. Michael’s_ is very beautiful and very
extensive, but unfortunately it was too thick and hazy to see it well.
A low ridge of sand separates _St. Michael’s Mount_ from _Marazion_ at
low water, and the sea at high water. From the sand to the summit of
the castle is about 250 feet. The chapel was originally erected, they
say, for the use of pilgrims who came here; and it owes its name to a
tradition of St. Michael the Archangel having rested on the rock.
At half-past eleven Lord Spencer read on deck the short morning service
generally read at sea, which only lasted twenty or twenty-five minutes.
The awning was put up, and flags on the sides; and all the officers
and sailors were there, as well as ourselves. A flag was hoisted, as
is usual when the service is performed on board ship, and Lord Spencer
read extremely well.
Albert made a most beautiful little sketch of _St. Michael’s Mount_.
Soon after two we left _Mount’s Bay_. About four we came opposite to
some very curious serpentine rocks, between _Mount’s Bay_ and _Lizard
Point_, and we stopped, that Albert might land. The gentlemen went with
him. Lord Spencer soon returned, saying that Albert was very anxious
I should see the beautiful little cave in these serpentine rocks; and
accordingly I got into the barge, with the children, and ladies, and
Lord Spencer, and we rowed to these rocks, with their caves and little
creeks. There were many cormorants and sea-gulls on the rocks. We
returned again, and were soon joined by Albert, who brought many fine
specimens which he had picked up. The stone is really beautifully
marked with red and green veins.
We proceeded on our course, and reached _Falmouth_ before seven. The
fine afternoon was changed to a foggy, dull, cold evening. We have had
on board with us, since we left _Falmouth_, Mr. Taylor, mineral agent
to the Duchy of Cornwall, a very intelligent young man, married to a
niece of Sir Charles Lemon’s.
_Falmouth, Monday, September 7._
Immediately after breakfast, Albert left me to land and visit some
mines. The corporation of _Penryn_ were on board, and very anxious to
see “The Duke of Cornwall,” so I stepped out of the pavilion on deck
with Bertie, and Lord Palmerston told them that that was “The Duke of
Cornwall;” and the old mayor of _Penryn_ said that “he hoped he would
grow up a blessing to his parents and to his country.”
A little before four o’clock, we all got into the barge, with the two
children, and rowed to the “Fairy.” We rowed through a literal _lane_
of boats, full of people, who had surrounded the yacht ever since early
in the morning, and proceeded up the river by _St. Just’s Pool_, to the
left of which lies Sir C. Lemon’s place, and _Trefusis_ belonging to
Lord Clinton. We went up the _Truro_, which is beautiful,--something
like the _Tamar_, but almost finer, though not so bold as _Pentillie
Castle_ and _Cothele_,--winding between banks entirely wooded with
stunted oak, and full of numberless creeks. The prettiest are _King
Harry’s Ferry_ and a spot near _Tregothnan_ (Lord Falmouth’s), where
there is a beautiful little boat-house, quite in the woods, and on the
river, at the point where the _Tregony_ separates from the _Truro_.
Albert said the position of this boat-house put him in mind of Tell’s
Chapel in _Switzerland_. We went a little way up the _Tregony_, which
is most beautiful, with high sloping banks, thickly wooded down to the
water’s edge. Then we turned back and went up the _Truro_ to _Malpas_,
another bend of the river, from whence one can see _Truro_, the capital
of _Cornwall_. We stopped here awhile, as so many boats came out from a
little place called _Sunny Corner_, just below _Truro_, in order to see
us; indeed the whole population poured out on foot and in carts, &c.
along the banks; and cheered, and were enchanted when Bertie was held
up for them to see. It was a very pretty, gratifying sight.
We went straight on to _Swan Pool_ outside _Pendennis Castle_, where we
got into the barge, and rowed near to the shore to see a net drawn. Mr.
Fox, a Quaker, who lives at _Falmouth_, and has sent us flowers, fruit,
and many other things, proposed to put in his net and draw, that we
might see all sorts of fish caught, but when it was drawn there was not
one fish! So we went back to the “Fairy.” The water near the shore in
_Swan Pool_ is so wonderfully clear that one could count the pebbles.
_Tuesday, September 8._
A wet morning when we rose and breakfasted with the children. At about
ten o’clock we entered _Fowey_, which is situated in a creek much like
_Dartmouth_, only not so beautiful, but still very pretty. We got
into the barge (leaving the children on board, and also Lord Spencer,
who was not quite well), and landed at _Fowey_ with our ladies and
gentlemen, and Mr. Taylor, whom we had brought with us from _Falmouth_.
We got into our carriage with the ladies, the gentlemen following in
others, and drove through some of the narrowest streets I ever saw in
_England_, and up perpendicular hills in the streets--it really quite
alarmed one; but we got up and through them quite safely. We then drove
on for a long way, on bad and narrow roads, higher and higher up,
commanding a fine and very extensive view of the very hilly country of
_Cornwall_, its hills covered with fields, and intersected by hedges.
At last we came to one field where there was no road whatever, but we
went down the hill quite safely, and got out of the carriage at the top
of another hill, where, surrounded by woods, stands a circular ruin,
covered with ivy, of the old castle of _Restormel_, belonging to the
Duchy of Cornwall, and in which the last Earl of Cornwall lived in the
thirteenth century. It was very picturesque from this point.