pleasantest and most enjoyable expedition I _ever_ made; and the
recollection of it will always be most agreeable to me, and increase my
wish to make more! Was so glad dear Louis (who is a charming companion)
was with us. Have enjoyed nothing as much, or indeed felt so much
cheered by anything, since my great sorrow.[57] Did not feel tired. We
ladies did not dress, and dined _en famille_; looking at maps of the
_Highlands_ after dinner.
[57] The death of the Duchess of Kent.
LAST EXPEDITION.
_Wednesday, October 16, 1861._
To our great satisfaction it was a most beautiful morning. Not a cloud
was on the bright blue sky, and it was perfectly calm. There had been
a sharp frost which lay on parts of the grass, and the mountains were
beautifully lit up, with those very blue shades upon them, like the
bloom on a plum. Up early, and breakfasted with Alice, Louis, and
Lenchen, in our room. At twenty minutes to nine o’clock we started,
with Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. The morning was beyond everything
splendid, and the country in such beauty, though the poor trees are
nearly leafless.
Near _Castleton_, and indeed all along the road, in the shade, the
frost still lay, and the air was very sharp. We took post-horses at
_Castleton_, and proceeded up _Glen Clunie_ to _Glen Callater_, which
looked lovely, and which Albert admired much. In a little more than
two hours we were at _Loch Callater_--the road was very bad indeed as
we approached the loch, where our ponies were waiting for us. After
walking a few paces we remounted them, I on my good “Fyvie,” and Alice
on “Inchrory.”
The day was glorious--and the whole expedition delightful, and very
easily performed. We ascended _Little Cairn Turc_, on the north side
of _Loch Callater_, up a sort of footpath very easy and even, upon
ground that was almost flat, rising very gradually, but imperceptibly;
and the view became wonderfully extensive. The top of _Cairn Turc_ is
quite flat--with moss and grass--so that you could drive upon it. It is
very high, for you see the high table-land behind the highest point of
_Loch-na-Gar_. On that side you have no view; but from the other it is
wonderfully extensive. It was so clear and bright, and so still there,
reminding us of the day on _Ben Muich Dhui_ last year.
There rose immediately behind us _Ben Muich Dhui_, which you hardly
ever see, and the shape of which is not fine, with its surrounding
mountains of _Cairngorm_, _Brae Riach_, _Ben Avon_ or _A’an_,
_Ben-na-Bhourd_, &c. We saw _Ben-y-Ghlo_ quite clearly, and all that
range of hills; then, further west, _Shichallion_, near _Loch Tay_; the
mountains which are near the _Black Mount_; and, quite on the horizon,
we could discern _Ben Nevis_, which is above _Fort William_.
Going up _Cairn Turc_ we looked down upon _Loch Canter_, a small loch
above _Loch Callater_, very wild and dark. We proceeded to _Cairn
Glaishie_, at the extreme point of which a cairn has been erected. We
got off to take a look at the wonderful panorama which lay stretched
out before us. We looked on _Fifeshire_, and the country between
_Perth_ and _Stirling_, the _Lomond Hills_, &c. It was beautifully
clear, and really it was most interesting to look over such an immense
extent of the _Highlands_. I give a very poor description of it; but
here follows a rough account of the places we saw:—
To the North--_Ben Muich Dhui_, _Brae Riach_, _Cairngorm_, _Ben Avon_,
_Ben-na-Bhourd_.
To the East--_Loch-na-Gar_, &c.
To the South-West--_Ben-y-Ghlo_ or _Ben-y-Gloe_, and the surrounding
hills beyond _Shichallion_, and the mountains between _Dunkeld_ and the
_Black Mount_.
Quite in the extreme West--_Ben Nevis_.
To the South--the _Lomond Hills_; _Perth_ in the middle distance.
[Illustration: LUNCHEON AT CAIRN LOCHAN.
_After a Drawing by Carl Haag._]
We walked on a little way, and then I got upon my pony. Another half
hour’s riding again over such singular flat table-land, brought us on
to the edge of the valley of _Cairn Lochan_, which is indeed “a bonnie
place.” It reminded me and Louis of _Clova_; only there one did not
see the immense extent of mountains behind. _Cairn Lochan_ is a narrow
valley, the river _Isla_ winding through it like a silver ribbon, with
trees at the bottom. The hills are green and steep, but towards the
head of the valley there are fine precipices. We had then to take a
somewhat circuitous route in order to avoid some bogs, and to come to
a spot where we looked right up the valley for an immense distance; to
the left, or rather more to the south, was _Glen Isla_, another glen,
but wider, and not with the same high mountains as _Cairn Lochan_.
Beyond _Glen Isla_ were seen the _Lomond Hills_ behind _Kinross_, at
the foot of which is _Loch Leven_.
We sat on a very precipitous place, which made one dread any one’s
moving backwards; and here, at a little before two o’clock, we lunched.
The lights were charmingly soft, and, as I said before, like the bloom
on a plum. The luncheon was very acceptable, for the air was extremely
keen, and we found ice thicker than a shilling on the top of _Cairn
Turc_, which did not melt when Brown took it and kept it in his hand.
Helena was so delighted, for this was _the only really great_
expedition in which she had accompanied us.
Duncan and the keeper at _Loch Callater_ (R. Stewart) went with us as
guides.
I made some hasty sketches; and then Albert wrote on a bit of paper
that we had lunched here, put it into the Selters-water bottle, and
buried it there, or rather stuck it into the ground. Grant had done
the same when we visited _Ben Muich Dhui_ the first time. This over,
we walked part of the way back which we had ridden to avoid the
bogs,--we ladies walking only a short way, and then riding. We altered
our course, and left _Cairn Glaishie_ to our right, and went in the
direction of the _Cairn Wall_. Looking back on the distant hills above
_Glen Isla_ and _Cairn Lochan_ (Lord Airlie’s “Country”), it was even
more beautiful; for, as the day advanced, the mountains became clearer
and clearer, of a lovely blue, while the valleys were in shadow.
_Shichallion_, and those further ranges, were also most perfectly to
be seen, and gave me such a longing for further Highland expeditions!
We went over _Garbchory_, looking down on the road to the _Spittal_;
and on the lower mountains, which are most curiously connected one with
another, and which, from the height we were, we could look down upon.
Here follows the account of our route, with all the names as written
down by Duncan. I cannot “mind” the names, as they say here.
From _Balmoral_ to--
_Loch Callater_, four miles,
Left _Loch Callater_ at 11 o’clock, A.M.,
_Little Cairn Turc_,
_Big Cairn Turc_,
_Loch Canter_,
_Cairn Glaishie_,
_Cairn Lochan_,
_Ca-Ness_, six miles.
Returning route:—
_Cairn Lochan_,
_Cairn Glashie_,
_Garb Chory_,
_Month Eigie Road_,
_Glass Meall_,
_Fian Chory_,
_Aron Ghey_,
_Shean Spittal Bridge_, 4.30 P.M.,
_Shean Spittal Bridge_ to _Balmoral_, 16 miles.
This gave one a very good idea of the geography of the country, which
delighted dear Albert, as this expedition was quite in a different
direction from any that we had ever made before. But my head is so very
ungeographical, that I cannot describe it. We came down by the _Month
Eigie_, a steep hill covered with grass--down part of which I rode,
walking where it was steepest; but it was so wet and slippery that I
had two falls. We got down to the road to the _Spittal Bridge_, about
15 miles from _Castleton_, at nearly half-past four, and then down
along the new road, at least that part of it which is finished, and
which is to extend to the _Cairn Wall_. We went back on our side of
the river; and if we had been a little earlier, Albert might have got
a stag--but it was too late. The moon rose and shone most beautifully,
and we returned at twenty minutes to seven o’clock, much pleased and
interested with this delightful expedition. Alas! I fear our _last_
great one!
(IT WAS OUR LAST ONE!--1867.)
_TOURS_
_in_
_ENGLAND AND IRELAND,_
_and_
_YACHTING EXCURSIONS._
FIRST VISIT TO IRELAND.
_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in the Cove of Cork,
Thursday, August 2, 1849._
Arrived here after a quick but not very pleasant passage. The day was
fine and bright, and the sea to all appearance very smooth; but there
was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing
anything. We passed the _Land’s End_ at nine o’clock in the morning.
When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we were close to
the _Cove of Cork_, and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the
rockets and lights that were sent off from the different steamers. The
harbour is immense, though the land is not very high, and entering by
twilight it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn, Miss Dawson, Lord
Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George Grey (Secretary of State for the
Home Department), Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr. Birch are on
board with us. The equerries, Colonel Phipps and Colonel Gordon, are on
board the “Black Eagle.”
_Friday, August 3._
The day was grey and excessively “muggy,” which is the character of the
Irish climate. The ships saluted at eight o’clock, and the “Ganges”
(the flag-ship and a three-decker) and the “Hogue” (a three-decker cut
down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into her), which are
both very near us, made a great noise. The harbour is very extensive,
and there are several islands in it, one of which is very large. _Spike
Island_ is immediately opposite us, and has a convict prison; near it
another island with the depôt, &c. In a line with that is the town of
_Cove_, picturesquely built up a hill. The two war-steamers have only
just come in. The Admiral (Dixon) and the Captains of the vessels came
on board. Later, Lord Bandon (Lord-Lieutenant of the county), Lord
Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the Forces at Cork, presented
their respects, and Albert went on shore, and I occupied myself in
writing and sketching. Albert returned before our luncheon, and had
been walking about and visiting some of the cabins.
We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen, and went on
board the “Fairy,” which was surrounded with rowing and sailing boats.
We first went round the harbour, all the ships saluting, as well as
numbers of steamers and yachts. We then went into _Cove_ and lay
alongside the landing-place, which was very prettily decorated; and
covered with people; and yachts, ships and boats crowding all round.
The two Members, Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentlemen,
including the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen, and then the
members of the Yacht Club, presented addresses. After which, to give
the people the satisfaction of calling the place _Queenstown_, in
honour of its being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish
ground, I stepped on shore amidst the roar of cannon (for the artillery
were placed so close as quite to shake the temporary room which we
entered); and the enthusiastic shouts of the people. We immediately
re-embarked and proceeded up the river _Lee_ towards _Cork_. It is
extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of the _Tamar_.
The first feature of interest we passed was a little bathing-place,
called _Monkstown_, and later _Blackrock Castle_, at which point we
stopped to receive a salmon, and a very pretty address from the poor
fishermen of _Blackrock_.
As we approached the city we saw people streaming in, on foot, on
horseback, and many in jaunting-cars. When we reached _Cork_ the
“Fairy” again lay alongside, and we received all the addresses: first,
from the Mayor and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately
afterwards), then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy; from the Roman
Catholic Bishop and clergy; from the Lord-Lieutenant of the county,
the Sheriffs, and others. The two Judges, who were holding their
courts, also came on board in their robes. After all this was over we
landed, and walked some few paces on to where Lord Bandon’s carriage
was ready to receive us. The ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and
the General rode on each side of the carriage. The Mayor preceded us,
and many (Lord Listowel among the number,) followed on horseback or
in carriages. The 12th Lancers escorted us, and the Pensioners and
Infantry lined the streets.
I cannot describe our route, but it will suffice to say that it took
two hours; that we drove through the principal streets; twice through
some of them; that they were densely crowded, decorated with flowers
and triumphal arches; that the heat and dust were great; that we passed
by the new College which is building--one of the four which are ordered
by Act of Parliament; that our reception was most enthusiastic; and
that everything went off to perfection, and was very well arranged.
_Cork_ is not at all like an English town, and looks rather foreign.
The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humoured one, running
and pushing about, and laughing, talking, and shrieking. The beauty
of the women is very remarkable, and struck us much; such beautiful
dark eyes and hair, and such fine teeth; almost every third woman was
pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets, and generally
long blue cloaks; the men are very poorly, often raggedly dressed; and
many wear blue coats and short breeches with blue stockings.
We re-embarked at the same place and returned just as we came.
_Kingstown Harbour, Dublin Bay,
Sunday, August 5._
Safely arrived here: I now continue my account. For the first two hours
and a half the sea, though rough, was not disagreeable. We entered
_Waterford Harbour_ yesterday at twenty minutes to four o’clock. The
harbour is rocky on the right as one enters, and very flat to the left;
as one proceeds the land rises on either side. We passed a little fort
called _Duncannon Fort_, whence James II. embarked after the battle
of the _Boyne_, and from which they had not saluted for fifty years.
Further up, between two little villages, one on either side, each
with its little chapel, picturesquely situated on the top of the rock
or hill, we anchored. The little fishing place to our left is called
_Passage_, and is famous for salmon; we had an excellent specimen for
our dinner. Albert decided on going to _Waterford_, ten miles up the
river, in the “Fairy,” with the boys, but as I felt giddy and tired, I
preferred remaining quietly on board sketching. Albert returned after
seven o’clock; he had not landed.
_Viceregal Lodge, Phœnix Park,
Monday, August 6._
Here we are in this very pretty spot, with a lovely view of the
_Wicklow Hills_ from the window. But now to return to yesterday’s
proceedings. We got under weigh at half-past eight o’clock; for three
hours it was dreadfully rough, and I and the poor children were very
sea-sick. When we had passed the _Tuscan Rock_ in _Wexford_ the sea
became smoother, and shortly after, quite smooth, and the evening
beautiful. After we passed _Arklow Head_, the _Wicklow Hills_ came
in sight--they are beautiful. The _Sugarloaf_ and _Carrick Mountain_
have finely pointed outlines, with low hills in front and much wood.
At half-past six we came in sight of _Dublin Bay_, and were met by the
“Sphynx” and “Stromboli” (which had been sent on to wait and to come
in with us), the “Trident,” and, quite close to the harbour, by the
“Dragon,” another war-steamer. With this large squadron we steamed
slowly and majestically into the harbour of _Kingstown_, which was
covered with thousands and thousands of spectators, cheering most
enthusiastically. It is a splendid harbour, and was full of ships
of every kind. The wharf, where the landing-place was prepared, was
densely crowded, and altogether it was a noble and stirring scene. It
was just seven when we entered, and the setting sun lit up the country,
the fine buildings, and the whole scene with a glowing light, which was
truly beautiful. We were soon surrounded by boats, and the enthusiasm
and excitement of the people were extreme.
While we were at breakfast the yacht was brought close up to the wharf,
which was lined with troops. Lord and Lady Clarendon and George[58]
came on board; also Lords Lansdowne and Clanricarde, the Primate, the
Archbishop of Dublin, and many others. The address was presented by
the Sheriff and gentlemen of the county. As the clock struck ten we
disembarked, stepping on shore from the yacht, Albert leading me and
the children, and all the others following us. An immense multitude had
assembled, who cheered most enthusiastically, the ships saluting and
the bands playing, and it was really very striking. The space we had
to walk along to the railroad was covered in; and lined with ladies
and gentlemen strewing flowers. We entered the railway-carriages with
the children, the Clarendons, and the three ladies; and in a quarter
of an hour reached the Dublin station. Here we found our carriages
with the postilions in their Ascot liveries. The two eldest children
went with us, and the two younger ones with the three ladies. Sir
Edward Blakeney, Commander-in-Chief in Ireland, rode on one side of the
carriage and George on the other, followed by a brilliant staff, and
escorted by the 17th Lancers and the Carabiniers.
[58] The Duke of Cambridge.
It was a wonderful and striking scene, such masses of human beings, so
enthusiastic, so excited, yet such perfect order maintained; then the
numbers of troops, the different bands stationed at certain distances,
the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, the bursts of welcome which rent
the air,--all made it a never-to-be-forgotten scene; when one reflected
how lately the country had been in open revolt and under martial law.
_Dublin_ is a very fine city; and _Sackville Street_ and _Merrion
Square_ are remarkably large and handsome; and the _Bank_, _Trinity
College_, &c. are noble buildings. There are no gates to the town, but
temporary ones were erected under an arch; and here we stopped, and
the Mayor presented me the keys with some appropriate words. At the
last triumphal arch a poor little dove was let down into my lap, with
an olive branch round its neck, alive and very tame. The heat and dust
were tremendous. We reached _Phœnix Park_, which is very extensive, at
twelve. Lord and Lady Clarendon and all the household received us at
the door. It is a nice comfortable house, reminding us of _Claremont_,
with a pretty terrace garden in front (laid out by Lady Normanby),
and has a very extensive view of the _Park_ and the fine range of the
_Wicklow Mountains_. We are most comfortably lodged, and have very nice
rooms.
_Tuesday, August 7._
We drove into _Dublin_--with our two ladies--in Lord Clarendon’s
carriage, the gentlemen following; and without any escort. The people
were very enthusiastic, and cheered a great deal. We went, first,
to the _Bank_, where the Directors received us, and then to the
printing-room, and from thence viewed the old Houses of Lords and
Commons, for what is now the _Bank_ was the old Parliament House. From
here we drove to the _Model-School_, where we were received by the
Archbishop of Dublin, the Roman Catholic Archbishop Murray (a fine
venerable-looking old man of eighty), and the other gentlemen connected
with the school. We saw the _Infant_, the _Girls’_, and the _Boys’
Schools_; in the latter, one class of boys was examined in mental
arithmetic and in many very difficult things, and they all answered
wonderfully. Children of all creeds are admitted, and their different
doctrines are taught separately, if the parents wish it; but the _only_
teaching enforced is that of the Gospel truths, and love and charity.
This is truly Christian and ought to be the case everywhere. About
1,000 children are educated here annually, of which 300 are trained as
schoolmasters and mistresses. From here we visited _Trinity College_,
the Irish University, which is not conducted upon so liberal a system,
but into which Roman Catholics are admitted. Dr. Todd, the secretary,
and a very learned man, well versed in the Irish language, showed us
some most interesting ancient manuscripts and relics, including St.
Columba’s Book (in which we wrote our names), and the original harp
of King O’Brian, supposed to be the one from which the Irish arms are
taken. The library is a very large handsome room, like that in _Trinity
College, Cambridge_. We then proceeded towards home, the crowd in the
streets immense, and so loyal. It rained a little at intervals. Home by
a little past one. Albert went into _Dublin_ again after luncheon, and
I wrote and read, and heard our children say some lessons.
At five we proceeded to _Kilmainham Hospital_, very near here; Lord
Clarendon going in the carriage with the ladies and myself--Albert
and the other gentlemen riding. Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff,
and George, received us. We saw the old pensioners, the chapel, and
the hall, a fine large room (where all the pensioners dine, as at
_Chelsea_), and then Sir Edward’s private apartments. We afterwards
took a drive through all the principal parts of _Dublin_,—_College
Green_, where the celebrated statue of William the III. is to be seen;
_Stephens’ Green_, by _The Four Courts_, a very handsome building;
and, though we were not expected, the crowds were in many places very
great. We returned a little before seven. A large dinner. After dinner
above two or three hundred people arrived, including most of the Irish
nobility and many of the gentry; and afterwards there was a ball.
_Wednesday, August 8._
At twenty minutes to one o’clock we left for _Dublin_, I and all the
ladies in evening dresses, all the gentlemen in uniform. We drove
straight to the Castle. Everything here as at _St. James’s_ Levée.
The staircase and throne-room quite like a palace. I received (on
the throne) the addresses of the Lord Mayor and Corporation, the
University, the Archbishop and Bishops, both Roman Catholic and
Anglican, the Presbyterians, the non-subscribing Presbyterians, and the
Quakers. They also presented Albert with addresses.[59] Then followed a
very long Levée, which lasted without intermission till twenty minutes
to six o’clock! Two thousand people were presented!
[59] Lord Breadalbane (Lord Chamberlain) was in attendance, having
joined us on our arrival in Dublin.
_Thursday, August 9._
There was a great and brilliant review in the _Phœnix Park_--six
thousand one hundred and sixty men, including the constabulary. In the
evening we two dined alone, and at half-past eight o’clock drove into
_Dublin_ for the Drawing-room. It is always held here of an evening. I
should think between two and three thousand people passed before us,
and one thousand six hundred ladies were presented. After it was over
we walked through _St. Patrick’s Hall_ and the other rooms, and the
crowd was very great. We came back to the _Phœnix Park_ at half-past
twelve--the streets still densely crowded. The city was illuminated.
_Friday, August 10._
At a quarter to twelve o’clock we set out, with all our suite, for
_Carton_, the Duke of Leinster’s; Lord and Lady Clarendon in the
carriage with us. We went through _Woodlands_, a place belonging to
Mr. White, in which there are beautiful lime-trees; and we passed by
the “Preparatory College” for _Maynooth_; and not far from _Carton_
we saw a number of the Maynooth students. The park of Carton is very
fine. We arrived there at a little past one, and were received by the
Duke and Duchess of Leinster, the Kildares, Mr. and Lady C. Repton, and
their two sons. We walked out into the garden, where all the company
were assembled, and the two bands playing; it is very pretty: a sort
of formal French garden with rows of Irish yews. We walked round the
garden twice, the Duke leading me, and Albert the Duchess. The Duke is
one of the kindest and best of men.