go deer-stalking and that I should follow him. At twenty minutes to
eleven we drove off with Lady Canning for _Glen Tilt_. The day was
glorious and it would have been a pity to lose it, but it was a long
hard day’s work, though extremely delightful and enjoyable, and unlike
anything I had ever done before. I should have enjoyed it still more
had I been able to be with Albert the whole time.
We drove nearly to Peter Fraser’s house, which is between the _Marble
Lodge_ and _Forest Lodge_. Here Albert and I walked about a little,
and then Lady Canning and we mounted our ponies and set off on our
journey, Lord Glenlyon leading my pony the whole way, Peter Fraser,
the head-keeper (a wonderfully active man) leading the way; Sandy and
six other Highlanders carrying rifles and leading dogs, and the rear
brought up by two ponies with our luncheon-box. Lawley,[16] Albert’s
Jäger, was also there, carrying one of Albert’s rifles; the other
Albert slung over his right shoulder, to relieve Lawley. So we set off
and wound round and round the hill, which had the most picturesque
effect imaginable. Such a splendid view all round, finer and more
extensive the higher we went! The day was delightful; but the sun very
hot. We saw the highest point of _Ben-y-Ghlo_, which one cannot see
from below, and the distant range of hills we had seen from _Tulloch_
was beautifully softened by the slightest haze. We saw _Loch Vach_. The
road was very good, and as we ascended we had to speak in a whisper, as
indeed we did almost all day, for fear of coming upon deer unawares.
The wind was, however, right, which is everything here for the deer. I
wish we could have had Landseer with us to sketch our party, with the
background, it was so pretty, as were also the various “halts,” &c. If
I only had had time to sketch them!
[16] A very good man. His health obliged him to give up being a Jäger
in 1848; he was then appointed a Page, in which position he continued
till he died, in November, 1865.
We stopped at the top of the _Ghrianan_, whence you look down an
immense height. It is here that the eagles sometimes sit. Albert got
off and looked about in great admiration, and walked on a little, and
then remounted his pony. We then went nearly to the top of _Cairn
Chlamain_, and here we separated, Albert going off with Peter, Lawley,
and two other keepers, to get a “quiet shot” as they call it; and Lady
Canning, Lord Glenlyon, and I went up quite to the top, which is deep
in moss.
Here we sat down and stayed some time sketching the ponies below; Lord
Glenlyon and Sandy remaining near us. The view was quite beautiful,
nothing but mountains all around us, and the solitude, the complete
solitude, very impressive. We saw the range of _Mar Forest_, and the
inner range to the left, receding from us, as we sat facing the hill,
called _Scarsach_, where the counties of _Perth_, _Aberdeen_, and
_Inverness_ join. My pony was brought up for me, and we then descended
this highest pinnacle, and proceeded on a level to meet Albert, whom I
descried coming towards us. We met him shortly after; he had had bad
luck, I am sorry to say. We then sat down on the grass and had some
luncheon; then I walked a little with Albert and we got on our ponies.
As we went on towards home some deer were seen in _Glen Chroine_,
which is called the “Sanctum;” where it is supposed that there are a
great many. Albert went off soon after this, and we remained on _Sron
a Chro_, for an hour, I am sure, as Lord Glenlyon said by so doing we
should turn the deer to Albert, whereas if we went on we should disturb
and spoil the whole thing. So we submitted. Albert looked like a little
speck creeping about on an opposite hill. We saw four herds of deer,
two of them close to us. It was a beautiful sight.
Meanwhile I saw the sun sinking gradually, and I got quite alarmed lest
we should be benighted, and we called anxiously for Sandy, who had gone
away for a moment, to give a signal to come back. We then began our
descent, “squinting” the hill, the ponies going as safely and securely
as possible. As the sun went down the scenery became more and more
beautiful, the sky crimson, golden-red and blue, and the hills looking
purple and lilac, most exquisite, till at length it set, and the hues
grew softer in the sky and the outlines of the hills sharper. I never
saw anything so fine. It soon, however, grew very dark.
At length Albert met us, and he told me he had waited all the time
for us, as he knew how anxious I should be. He had been very unlucky,
and had lost his sport, for the rifle would not go off just when he
could have shot some fine harts; yet he was as merry and cheerful as
if nothing had happened to disappoint him. We got down quite safely to
the bridge; our ponies going most surely, though it was quite dusk when
we were at the bottom of the hill. We walked to the _Marble Lodge_,
and then got into the pony carriage and drove home by very bright
moonlight, which made everything look very lovely; but the road made
one a little nervous.
We saw a flight of ptarmigan, with their white wings, on the top of
_Sron a Chro_, also plovers, grouse, and pheasants. We were safely home
by a quarter to eight.
_Tuesday, October 1._
At a quarter-past eight o’clock we started, and were very very sorry
to leave _Blair_ and the dear _Highlands_! Every little trifle and
every spot I had become attached to; our life of quiet and liberty,
everything was so pleasant, and all the Highlanders and people who went
with us I had got to like so much. Oh! the dear hills, it made me very
sad to leave them behind!
Lord Glenlyon rode with us, and we went back exactly the same road
we came; through _Killiecrankie_, _Pitlochrie_, saw _Logierait_, &c.
The battle of _Killiecrankie_ was fought in a field to your left,
as you come from _Blair_ and before you come to the pass; and Lord
Dundee was shot in a garden immediately above the field at _Urrard_
(formerly called _Rinrory_) which belongs to Mr. Stewart of _Urrard_;
the Stewarts of _Urrard_ used formerly to live on _Craig Urrard_. We
reached _Dunkeld_ at half-past eleven. Mr. Oswald and Mr. Patrick Small
Keir, with a detachment of Highlanders, were there. We drove up to the
door of the cottage at _Dunkeld_ and got out there. It is beautifully
situated and the cottage is very pretty, with a good view of the river
from the windows. _Craig-y-Barns_ is a fine rocky hill to the left as
you drive from _Blair_.
We walked to look at the beginning of the new house which the late
Duke of Athole commenced, but which has been left unfinished, and also
at a beautiful larch-tree, the first that was brought to _Scotland_.
I rode back on “Arghait Bhean”[17] for the last time, and took a sad
leave of him and of faithful Sandy McAra. We walked into the ruins of
the old cathedral and into that part which the late Duke fitted up for
service, and where there is a fine monument of him. I should never have
recognized the grounds of _Dunkeld_, so different did they look without
the encampment.[18] Beautiful as _Dunkeld_ is, it does not approach the
beauty and wildness of _Blair_.
[17] This pony was given to me by the Duke of Athole in 1847, and is
now alive at Osborne.
[18] _Vide_ page 14.
After twelve o’clock we set off again, and to our astonishment Lord
Glenlyon insisted upon riding on with us to _Dundee_, which is 50 miles
from _Blair_! Captain J. Murray also rode with us from _Dunkeld_. It
made me feel sad to see the country becoming flatter and flatter. There
was a great crowd at _Cupar Angus_, and at _Dundee_ a still larger one,
and on the pier the crush was very great.
We took leave of Lord Glenlyon with real regret, and he seemed quite
unhappy at our going. No one could be more zealous or kinder than he
was.
There was a fearful swell when we went in the barge to the yacht.
_Thursday, October 3._
The English coast appeared terribly flat. Lord Aberdeen was quite
touched when I told him I was so attached to the dear, dear _Highlands_
and missed the fine hills so much. There is a great peculiarity about
the _Highlands_ and Highlanders; and they are such a chivalrous, fine,
active people. Our stay among them was so delightful. Independently of
the beautiful scenery, there was a quiet, a retirement, a wildness, a
liberty, and a solitude that had such a charm for us.
The day had cleared up and was bright, but the air very heavy and
thick, quite different from the mountain air, which was so pure, light,
and brisk. At two o’clock we reached _Woolwich_, and shortly after
disembarked. We proceeded straight to the railroad, and arrived at
_Windsor Castle_ at a few minutes past four.
TOUR ROUND THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND, AND VISIT TO ARDVERIKIE.
_Wednesday, August 11, 1847._
We proceeded from the _Osborne Pier_ on board the yacht. Our two eldest
children, my brother Charles, the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord
Grey (Secretary of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James
Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us.
We have with us the following steamers:--The “Black Eagle,” “Garland,”
“Undine,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge” (war-steamers). The two equerries are
on board the “Black Eagle.”
We were soon under weigh, and as _Osborne_ vanished from our sight, I
thought of our poor children left behind.
_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in Dartmouth Harbour,
Thursday, August 12._
I have not much to relate. Our voyage has not been what we intended,
_mais l’homme propose et Dieu dispose_; for instead of being at
_Falmouth_ we are only at _Dartmouth_! We started at five o’clock, and
soon after felt the vessel stop, and on inquiring, heard that the fog
was so thick it was impossible to proceed. At last Captain Smithett
was sent out in the “Garland” to report on the state of the weather;
and he soon returned, saying that all was clear enough to proceed
outside _The Needles_ (we were in _Alum Bay_). So we started again,
and, after breakfast, we came on deck, where I remained working and
talking; feeling quite well; but towards one o’clock the ground swell
had increased, and we decided to run into the harbour we now are in.
_On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Milford Haven, South Wales,
Saturday, August 14._
Arrived here this afternoon at five. I will give an account of what has
passed since leaving _Dartmouth_. Thursday evening, after dining with
Charles, we went on deck, and found the whole town illuminated, and the
effect of its curious high houses running down quite into the still
sea, which reflected the illumination, was lovely,--the night being so
fine and calm.
_Friday, August 13._
We started at four and reached the _Scilly Islands_ at three in the
afternoon; it had been very rough. The numerous little rocky islands,
in the midst of which we are lying, are very curious.
[Illustration]
_St. Mary’s_, the principal island, has a little town, a church, and
a small harbour. Exactly opposite, on the isle of _Tresco_, is Mr.
Smith’s house; he has the lease of all the islands from the Duchy of
Cornwall. Farther to the left is _St. Agnes_, with a lighthouse and
innumerable rocks.
Albert (who, as well as Charles, has not been unwell, while I suffered
very much) went with Charles and Bertie to see one of the islands. The
children recover from their sea-sickness directly. When Albert and the
others returned, soon after five, we went with our ladies and gentlemen
in the barge across the harbour,--where, blue as the sea was, it was
still rather rough,--and landed at a little pier at _St. Mary’s_. The
harbour, surmounted by the old fort of the _Star Castle_, reminded
me of the harbour of _St. Heliers_. We got into a pony carriage
belonging to Mr. Smith, with Charles and Lady Jocelyn, and drove
through the place, which looks like a small fishing town, and then
round the fortifications of the castle, where there is a very pretty
walk overhanging the sea; the rock being covered with fern, and heath,
and furze. The extensive view of the islands and rocks around is very
beautiful. The town is built upon a very narrow strip of land, with a
small bay on either side. We got out at the old castle, which bears the
date of one of the Edwards. The view from the battlements is very fine.
We returned the same way we went, a little before seven.
_Saturday, August 14._
We started at five o’clock, and the yacht then began to roll and pitch
dreadfully, and I felt again very unwell; but I came on deck at three
in the afternoon, the sea then was like glass, and we were close to the
Welsh coast.
This harbour, _Milford Haven_, is magnificent; the largest we have; a
fleet might lie here. We are anchored just off _Milford_. _Pembroke_ in
front, in the distance. The cliffs, which are reddish brown, are not
very high. Albert and Charles went in the “Fairy” to _Pembroke_, and I
sketched. Numbers of boats came out, with Welshwomen in their curious
high-crowned men’s hats; and Bertie was much cheered, for the people
seemed greatly pleased to see the “Prince of Wales.” Albert returned at
a quarter to eight.
[Illustration]
A very pretty dairymaid, in complete Welsh costume, was brought on
board for me to see. We found _Milford_ illuminated when we went on
deck, and bonfires burning everywhere.
_Sunday, August 15._
We started again at four o’clock, but this time had a beautiful day,
with the sea smooth the whole way. About eleven we saw the mountainous
coast of _Caernarvonshire_; the hills, which are in fact high
mountains, are bold and finely shaped, and, Albert said, reminded him
much of _Ischia_, with the beautiful deep blue sea and bright sky.
Having arrived at the entrance of the _Menai Straits_, we all left the
“Victoria and Albert,” and went on board the “Fairy.” The “Victoria
and Albert” with the “Black Eagle” (the two equerries having joined
us), the “Undine” and “Scourge,” proceeded round the _Isle of Anglesea_
by _Holyhead_, and, in the “Fairy,” accompanied by the “Garland,” we
went into the _Straits_. As we entered, the view of the fine mountains
with their rich verdure--_Snowdon_ rising splendidly in the midst--and
of the fields and woods below, was really glorious. To the left the
country is extremely flat. Then _Caernarvon_ came in sight, with its
grand old Castle so finely situated. We stopped for a few moments off
here, but did not land. The mountains disappeared for a while, and
then re-appeared more beautiful than ever. We passed close to _Plas
Newydd_, where we had spent six weeks fifteen years ago. I felt as if I
remembered it all very well; but admired the scenery even more than I
had expected from my previous recollection.
We passed the famous _Swilly Rocks_, and saw the works they are
making for the tube for the railroad, and then went under the _Menai
Bridge_ and stopped immediately on the other side. There were crowds
of loyal people in steamers and boats, playing “God save the Queen,”
and cheering tremendously. Albert and Charles landed and walked over
the bridge. When they returned we went on again, and stopped in a most
beautiful spot, with almost Swiss scenery, opposite _Penrhyn Castle_,
Colonel Douglas Pennant’s (which I saw in the late possessor’s time
unfinished), and near _Bangor_, with its wooded banks, through which
one can see the high-road to _Beaumaris_. The purple hills, with the
verdure below, and the blue sea, were extremely picturesque.
Albert and Charles went to see _Penrhyn_. As soon as they returned we
dined below in the “Fairy,” and at eight we returned, with the children
and all our people, to the “Victoria and Albert.” The evening was
beautiful and the day very successful.
_Monday, August 16._
We woke soon after four o’clock, when getting under weigh, and were
surprised to feel the yacht stop not an hour after. Something had gone
wrong with the paddle-wheel--just as happened last year--and it took
full two hours to set it right. Then at seven we started afresh. A
beautiful morning with a very smooth sea. By half-past ten we were in
sight of the _Isle of Man_, which is a fine island with bold hills
and cliffs. A little before twelve we reached the point of the bay,
on which is the town of _Douglas_, very prettily situated, with a
picturesque castle near the lighthouse, on the extreme point of the
bay. We stopped off here for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour,--the
rocks were covered with people. From _Douglas_ to _Ramsay Bay_ the
hills and cliffs are high and bold; though _Ramsay_ itself is low.
For about two hours we were out of sight of land, and I was below
writing. When I came on deck at three o’clock the Scotch coast was
quite close; the _Mull of Galloway_, and then _Wigtownshire_. Albert
declared he saw the Irish coast, but I could not descry it. At five
we came in sight of _Loch Ryan_, and saw, to the left, _Ailsa Craig_
rising more than 1,000 feet perpendicularly from the sea. _Loch Ryan_
is very fine, and the hills and glens are lovely, particularly little
_Glen Finnart_. The loch is very large, and the hills here are very
high and wooded. The little town is called _Stranraer_.
_Tuesday, August 17._
At six o’clock we began to move. A beautiful morning. At about
eight we were close to the _Ailsa Rock_ or _Craig_, the formation
of which is very curious. There were thousands and thousands of
birds,--gannets,--on the rock, and we fired a gun off three times in
order to bring them in reach of a shot--Albert and Charles tried, but
in vain. We next came in sight of the beautiful _Isle of Arran_. The
finest point is when you are before the _Holy Island_, and in sight of
the _Goatfell_ range of mountains. The highest is about 2,800 feet;
they are peculiarly fine from their bold pointed outlines. Before them
is _Lamlash_. After passing _Holy Island_ we came to _Brodick Bay_,
which is beautiful, with high hills and a glen; in front of which, and
surrounded by wood, is the castle which Lord Douglas is building. Not
long after this we came in sight of the _Isle of Bute_, and entered the
_Clyde_, the view of which from Mr. Stuart’s and Lord Bute’s property
is beautiful: high wooded banks, the river opening out and widening,
surrounded by the distant mountains. A small place to the right called
_Largs_ is very prettily situated.
At half-past twelve we reached _Greenock_, the port of _Glasgow_. The
shore and the ships were crowded with people, there being no less (as
I since learnt) than thirty-nine steamers, over-filled with people,
which almost all followed us! Such a thing never was seen. Add to these
steamers boats and ships of all descriptions, moving in all directions;
but not getting out of the way! We, however, got safe on board the
“Fairy,” and steamed up the _Clyde_; it was hazy, and we could not
see the distance well. We passed the small town of _Port Glasgow_,
and about one o’clock were at _Dumbarton Castle_. Its situation is
very fine, the rock rising straight out of the river, the mountains
all round, and the town of _Dumbarton_ behind it, making it very
picturesque. We landed just below the Castle, and went with Charles and
the children in a carriage to the fort. There was a great crowd, but
excellent order kept. We went to the battery, but had to mount many
steps to get to it. Wallace was confined here; and it was one of the
last castles which held out for Mary Queen of Scots. From the battery
there is a very extensive view of the _Clyde_ and _Dumbarton_, and we
ought to have been able to see _Ben Lomond_; but it was in mist.
We got back to the “Fairy” by half-past two, and returned to
_Greenock_, escorted by nineteen steamers. Steamed past _Greenock_, and
went on towards _Loch Long_, passing _Roseneath_ to the right, where
the present Duke and Duchess of Argyll live. _Loch Long_ is indeed
splendid, 15 miles in length, surrounded by grand hills, with such
beautiful outlines, and very green--all so different from the eastern
part of _Scotland_--the loch winding along most beautifully, so as to
seem closed at times. Charles said it reminded him of _Switzerland_ and
the _Tyrol_. The finest point of _Loch Long_ is looking towards _Loch
Goil_. We had a very good sight of the mountain called _The Cobbler_;
the top of which resembles a man sitting and mending his shoe! At the
end of the loch we got a glimpse of _Ben Lomond_, and were, in fact,
very near _Loch Lomond_.
We returned as we came. There was no sun, and once or twice a little
mist; but still it was beautiful. We went on to _Rothsay_, which we
reached at eight o’clock, and immediately went on board the “Victoria
and Albert,” greatly tired but much amused and interested.
The children enjoy everything extremely, and bear the novelty and
excitement wonderfully. The people cheered the “Duke of Rothsay”[19]
very much, and also called for a cheer for the “Princess of Great
Britain.” Everywhere the good Highlanders are very enthusiastic.
_Rothsay_ is a pretty little town, built round a fine bay, with hills
in the distance, and a fine harbour. When we went on deck after dinner,
we found the whole town brilliantly illuminated, with every window lit
up, which had a very pretty effect.
[19] A title belonging to the eldest son of the Sovereign of Scotland,
and therefore held by the Prince of Wales as eldest son of the Queen,
the representative of the ancient Kings of Scotland.
_Wednesday, August 18._
A bright fresh morning, the hills slightly tipped with clouds. At eight
o’clock we all went on board the “Fairy,” and went up the _Kyles of
Bute_, which, as you advance, become very fine, the hills lying so
curiously one behind the other, sometimes apparently closing up all
outlet.
[Illustration]
We saw _Arran_ to the left, looking very grand in the distance. We have
been turning about a good deal since yesterday, for we went by _Arran_
and _Holy Island_, and then left _Little_ and _Great Cumbray_ to our
left, and went up to _Dumbarton_ and back, and on to _Loch Long_, and
then to _Rothsay_, leaving _Arran_ to our left; then, after passing
_Arran_, we entered _Loch Fyne_. I, however, had a headache, and was
obliged to lie down below, and only came on deck again when we were
within an hour of _Inverary_; where the lake widens, and the hills on
either side are very green and undulating, but not very high.
The approach to _Inverary_ is splendid; the loch is very wide; straight
before you a fine range of mountains splendidly lit up,--green, pink,
and lilac; to the left the little town of _Inverary_; and above it,
surrounded by pine woods, stands the Castle of _Inverary_, square, with
turrets at the corners.
Our reception was in the true Highland fashion. The Duke and Duchess of
Argyll (dear Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower), the Duchess of Sutherland,
Lord Stafford, Lady Caroline Leveson Gower, and the Blantyres received
us at the landing-place, which was all ornamented with heather. The
Celtic Society, including Campbell of Islay, his two sons (one grown
up and the other a very pretty little boy), with a number of his men,
and several other Campbells, were all drawn up near to the carriage. We
got into a carriage with the two Duchesses, Charles and the Duke being
on the box (we had left the children on board the “Fairy”), and took a
beautiful drive amongst magnificent trees, and along a glen where we
saw _Ben Sheerar_, &c. The weather was particularly fine, and we were
much struck by the extreme beauty of _Inverary_--presenting as it does
such a combination of magnificent timber, with high mountains, and a
noble lake.
The pipers walked before the carriage, and the Highlanders on either
side, as we approached the house. Outside stood the Marquis of Lorn,
just two years old, a dear, white, fat, fair little fellow with reddish
hair, but very delicate features, like both his father and mother: he
is such a merry, independent little child. He had a black velvet dress
and jacket, with a “sporran,” scarf, and Highland bonnet. We lunched at
two with our hosts; the Highland gentlemen standing with halberds in
the room. We sent for our children, who arrived during luncheon time.
We left _Inverary_ before three, and took the children with us in the
carriage. The Argylls, the Duchess of Sutherland, and the others,
accompanied us on board the “Fairy,” where we took leave of them.