also one of the most interesting of pursuits. There is not a tree, or a
bush behind which you can hide yourself.... One has, therefore, to be
constantly on the alert in order to circumvent them; and to keep under
the hill out of their wind, crawling on hands and knees, and dressed
entirely in grey.”
[9] My half-brother, Prince Leiningen, who died in 1856.
At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby and the Duchess
of Buccleuch. We drove through _Fern Tower_ (belonging to the widow
of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the carriage; then to
_Abercairny_, Major Moray’s. We got out there a moment to look at the
very fine house he is building, then drove home by _Monzie_ (Campbell
of Monzie’s), and Sir W. Murray’s, and had a very good view of the
Highland hills--a very fine day. At eight we dined. The Belhavens,
Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and various others composed the
party. After dinner more people came--several in kilts; and many reels
were danced; Campbell of Monzie is an exceedingly good dancer. We
danced one country dance--I with Lord Willoughby--and Albert with Lady
Carington.
_Tuesday, September 13._
We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after seven o’clock;
breakfast before eight. At nine we set off. The morning was very foggy
and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan’s place and stopped for a
moment where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby rode with
us the whole way till we arrived here. Soon after this we came to a
very extraordinary Roman encampment at _Ardoch_, called the “Lindrum.”
Albert got out; but I remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed
it to him. They say it is one of the most perfect in existence.
We changed horses at _Greenloaning_, and passed through _Dunblane_.
At twelve o’clock we reached _Stirling_, where the crowd was quite
fearful, and the streets so narrow, that it was most alarming; and
order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is
dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before us the whole way, and
the heat was intense. The situation of the Castle is extremely grand;
but I prefer that of _Edinburgh Castle_. Old Sir Archibald Christie
explained everything to us very well. We were shown the room where
James II. killed Douglas, and the window out of which he was thrown.
The ceiling is most curious. A skeleton was found in the garden only
twenty-five years ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was
Douglas’s. From the terrace the view is very extensive; but it was so
thick and hazy, that we could not see the Highland hills well. Sir A.
Christie showed us the field of the battle of _Bannockburn_; and the
“Knoll,” close under the walls of the Castle, from which the ladies
used to watch the tournaments; all the embankments yet remain. We also
saw Knox’s pulpit.
We next passed through _Falkirk_, and changed horses at _Callander
Park_, Mr. Forbes’s; both he and Sir Michael Bruce having ridden with
us from beyond _Stirling_. We passed Lord Zetland on the road, and
shortly before reaching _Linlithgow_, where we changed horses, Lord
Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the Palace, which, I am
told, is well worth seeing. The Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after
this, and, accompanied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us
on horseback to _Dalkeith_. We changed horses at _Kirkliston_, and
lastly at the outskirts of _Edinburgh_. There were a good many people
assembled at _Edinburgh_; but we were unable to stop. We reached
_Dalkeith_ at half-past five.
The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and felt most happy
that we had safely arrived here.
_Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14._
This is our last day in _Scotland_; it is really a delightful country,
and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out and saw the fine
greenhouse the Duke has built, all in stone, in the Renaissance style.
At half-past three o’clock we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch,
only Colonel Bouverie riding with us. We drove through _Melville Park_,
and through one of the little collier villages (of which there are a
great many about _Dalkeith_), called _Loanhead_, to _Rosslyn_.
We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent preservation; it was
built in the fifteenth century, and the architecture is exceedingly
rich. It is the burying place of the family of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps
it in repair. Twenty Barons of Rosslyn are buried there in armour. A
great crowd had collected about the chapel when we came out of it.
From _Rosslyn_ we then drove to _Hawthornden_, which is also
beautifully situated at a great height above the river. To our great
surprise we found an immense crowd of people there, who must have run
over from _Rosslyn_ to meet us.
We got out, and went down into some of the very curious caves in
the solid rock, where Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave followers
concealed themselves, and held out for so long a time. The Duchess told
us there were many of these caves all along the river to _Rosslyn_.
We came home through _Bonnyrigg_, another collier village, and through
_Dalkeith_.
_Thursday, September 15._
We breakfasted at half-past seven o’clock, and at eight we set off,
with the Duchess of Buccleuch, Lord Liverpool, and Lord Hardwicke
following. The ladies and equerries had embarked earlier. The day was
very bright and fine. The arrangements in _Edinburgh_, through which we
had to pass, were extremely well managed, and excellent order was kept.
We got out of the carriage on the pier, and went at once on board the
“Trident,” a large steamboat belonging to the General Steam Navigation
Company. The Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns,
Lord Cawdor, and Lady M. Campbell, came on board with us, and we then
took leave of them. We both thanked the Duke and Duchess for their
extreme kindness, attention, and hospitality to us, which really were
very great--indeed we had felt ourselves quite at home at _Dalkeith_.
As the fair shores of _Scotland_ receded more and more from our view,
we felt quite sad that this very pleasant and interesting tour was
over; but we shall never forget it.
On board the “Trident” (where the accommodation for us was much
larger and better than on board the “Royal George,” and which was
beautifully fitted up,) were Admiral Sir E. Brace, a pleasant old man,
Commander Bullock, and three other officers. The “Rhadamanthus,”
with some servants and carriages, set off last night, as well as the
“Shearwater,” with Lord Liverpool and Lord Hardwicke on board.
The “Salamander” (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on board), the “Fearless,”
and the “Royal George” yacht set off at the same time with us, but the
wind being against us, we soon lost sight of the yacht, and, not very
long after, of all our steamers, except the “Monarch,” which belongs
to the General Steam Navigation Company, and had some of our horses on
board. It started nearly at the same time, and was the only one which
could keep up with us. We passed _Tantallon Castle_, a grand old ruin
on the coast, and quite close to the _Bass Rock_, which is very fine,
and nearly opposite _Tantallon_. It was entirely covered with sea-gulls
and island geese, which swarm in thousands and thousands, quite
whitening its sides, and hovering above and around it.
At two o’clock we passed the famed _St. Abb’s Head_, which we had so
longed to see on our first voyage to _Scotland_. I read a few stanzas
out of _Marmion_, giving an account of the voyage of the nuns to _Holy
Island_, and saw the ruins of the convent on it; then _Bamborough
Castle_, and a little further on the _Ferne Islands_. We were very
sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died the night before we
passed the first time.
_Friday, September 16._
We heard that we had passed _Flamborough Head_ at half-past five in the
morning. The “Black Eagle” we passed at half-past eight last night,
and we could only just see her smoke by the time we came on deck.
At half-past nine I followed Albert on deck; it was a fine, bright
morning. We had some coffee, and walked about; we were then quite
in the open sea; it was very fine all day. At five we were close to
the “Rhadamanthus,” which had been in sight all day. We had a very
pleasant little dinner on deck, in a small tent made of flags, at
half-past five. We passed _Yarmouth_ at about a quarter to six--very
flat--and looking, Albert said, like a Flemish town. We walked up and
down on deck, admiring the splendid moonlight, which was reflected so
beautifully on the sea.
We went below at half-past seven, and I read the fourth and fifth
cantos of _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_ to Albert, and then we played
on the piano.
_Saturday, September 17._
At three o’clock in the morning we were awakened by loud guns,
which, however, were welcome sounds to us, as we knew that we were
at the _Nore_, the entrance of the river. About six we heard the
“Rhadamanthus” had just passed us, and they said we were lying off
_Southend_, in order to let the “Black Eagle” come up. It was a very
bright day, though a little hazy.
The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we passed along. At
ten minutes past ten we got into the barge and landed. The Duchess of
Norfolk and Miss Matilda Paget and the equerries were all there, but
the others we knew nothing of. Sir James Clark had been on board the
“Trident” with us. We drove off at once to the railway terminus, and
reached _Windsor Castle_ at half-past twelve o’clock.
VISIT TO BLAIR ATHOLE.
_Monday, September 9, 1844._
We got up at a quarter to six o’clock. We breakfasted. Mama came to
take leave of us; Alice and the baby[10] were brought in, poor little
things, to wish us “good-by.” Then good Bertie[11] came down to see
us, and Vicky[12] appeared as “voyageuse,” and was all impatience to
go. At seven we set off with her for the railroad, Viscountess Canning
and Lady Caroline Cocks[13] in our carriage. A very wet morning.
We got into the carriage again at _Paddington_, and proceeded to
_Woolwich_, which we reached at nine. Vicky was safely put into the
boat, and then carefully carried on deck of the yacht by Renwick,[14]
the sergeant-footman, whom we took with us in the boat on purpose. Lord
Liverpool, Lord Aberdeen, and Sir James Clark met us on board. Sir
Robert Peel was to have gone with us, but could not, in consequence of
his little girl being very ill.
[10] Prince Alfred, then only five weeks old.
[11] Name by which the Prince of Wales is always called in his family.
[12] Victoria, Princess Royal.
[13] Now Lady C. Courtenay.
[14] Now pensioned: promoted to Gentleman Porter in 1854. A very good
servant; and a native of Galashiels.
_Blair Athole, Wednesday, September 11._
At six o’clock we inquired and heard that we were in the port of
_Dundee_. Albert saw our other gentlemen, who had had a very bad
passage. Tuesday night they had a dreadful storm. _Dundee_ is a very
large place, and the port is large and open; the situation of the
town is very fine, but the town itself is not so. The Provost and
people had come on board, and wanted us to land later, but we got this
satisfactorily arranged. At half-past eight we got into our barge with
Vicky, and our ladies and gentlemen. The sea was bright and blue; the
boat danced along beautifully. We had about a quarter of a mile to row.
A staircase, covered with red cloth, was arranged for us to land upon,
and there were a great many people; but everything was so well managed
that all crowding was avoided, and only the Magistrates were below the
platform where the people were. Albert walked up the steps with me,
I holding his arm and Vicky his hand, amidst the loud cheers of the
people, all the way to the carriage, our dear Vicky behaving like a
grown-up person--not put out, nor frightened, nor nervous. We got into
our postchaise, and at the same time Renwick took Vicky up in his arms,
and put her in the next carriage with her governess and nurse.
There was a great crowd in _Dundee_, but everything was very well
managed, and there would have been no crowding at all, had not, as
usual, about twenty people begun to run along with the carriage, and
thus forced a number of others to follow. About three miles beyond
_Dundee_ we stopped at the gate of Lord Camperdown’s place: here a
triumphal arch had been erected, and Lady Camperdown and Lady Duncan
and her little boy, with others, were all waiting to welcome us, and
were very civil and kind. The little boy, beautifully dressed in the
Highland dress, was carried to Vicky, and gave her a basket with fruit
and flowers. I said to Albert I could hardly believe that our child
was travelling with us--it put me so in mind of myself when I was
the “little Princess.” Albert observed that it was always said that
parents lived their lives over again in their children, which is a very
pleasant feeling.
The country from here to _Cupar Angus_ is very well cultivated, and you
see hills in the distance. The harvest is only now being got in, but
is very good; and everything much greener than in _England_. Nothing
could be quieter than our journey, and the scenery is so beautiful!
It is very different from _England_: all the houses built of stone;
the people so different,--sandy hair, high cheekbones; children with
long shaggy hair and bare legs and feet; little boys in kilts. Near
_Dunkeld_, and also as you get more into the _Highlands_, there are
prettier faces. Those jackets which the girls wear are so pretty; all
the men and women, as well as the children, look very healthy.
_Cupar Angus_ is a small place--a village--14 miles from _Dundee_.
There you enter _Perthshire_. We crossed the river _Isla_, which made
me think of my poor little dog “Isla.” For about five or six miles we
went along a very pretty but rough cross-road, with the _Grampians_ in
the distance. We saw _Birnam Wood_ and Sir W. Stewart’s place in that
fine valley on the opposite side of the river. All along such splendid
scenery, and Albert enjoyed it so much--rejoicing in the beauties of
nature, the sight of mountains, and the pure air.
The peeps of _Dunkeld_, with the river _Tay_ deep in the bottom, and
the view of the bridge and cathedral, surrounded by the high wooded
hills, as you approached it, were lovely in the extreme. We got out at
an inn (which was small, but very clean) at _Dunkeld_, and stopped to
let Vicky have some broth. Such a charming view from the window! Vicky
stood and bowed to the people out of the window. There never was such a
good traveller as she is, sleeping in the carriage at her usual times,
not put out, not frightened at noise or crowds; but pleased and amused.
She never heard the anchor go at night on board ship; but slept as
sound as a top.
Shortly after leaving _Dunkeld_, which is 20 miles from _Blair_, and 15
from _Cupar Angus_, we met Lord Glenlyon in a carriage; he jumped out
and rode with us the whole way to _Blair_,--and a most beautiful road
it is. Six miles on, in the woods to the left, we could see _Kinnaird
House_, where the late Lady Glenlyon (Lord Glenlyon’s mother, who died
about two or three months ago) used to live. Then we passed the point
of _Logierait_, where there are the remains of an ancient castle,--the
old Regality Court of the Dukes of Athole. At _Moulinearn_ we tasted
some of the “_Athole_ brose,” which was brought to the carriage.
We passed _Pitlochrie_, a small village, _Faskally_, a very pretty
place of Mr. Butter’s, to the left, and then came to the _Pass of
Killiecrankie_, which is quite magnificent; the road winds along
it, and you look down a great height, all wooded on both sides; the
_Garry_ rolling below it. I cannot describe how beautiful it is.
Albert was in perfect ecstasies. _Lude_, Mr. Mc Inroy’s, to the right,
is very pretty. _Blair Athole_ is only four or five miles from the
_Killiecrankie Pass_. Lord Glenlyon has had a new approach made. The
house is a large plain white building, surrounded by high hills, which
one can see from the windows. Lord and Lady Glenlyon, with their little
boy, received us at the door, and showed us to our rooms, and then left
us.
_Blair Castle, Blair Athole,
Thursday, September 12._
We took a delightful walk of two hours. Immediately near the house the
scenery is very wild, which is most enjoyable. The moment you step
out of the house you see those splendid hills all round. We went to
the left through some neglected pleasure-grounds, and then through
the wood, along a steep winding path overhanging the rapid stream.
These Scotch streams, full of stones, and clear as glass, are most
beautiful; the peeps between the trees, the depth of the shadows, the
mossy stones, mixed with slate, &c., which cover the banks, are lovely;
at every turn you have a picture. We were up high, but could not get
to the top; Albert in such delight; it is a happiness to see him, he
is in such spirits. We came back by a higher drive, and then went to
the Factor’s house, still higher up, where Lord and Lady Glenlyon are
living, having given _Blair_ up to us. We walked on, to a cornfield
where a number of women were cutting and reaping the oats (“shearing”
as they call it in _Scotland_), with a splendid view of the hills
before us, so rural and romantic, so unlike our daily _Windsor_ walk
(delightful as that is); and this change does such good: as Albert
observes, it refreshes one for a long time. We then went into the
kitchen-garden, and to a walk from which there is a magnificent view.
This mixture of great wildness and art is perfection.
At a little before four o’clock Albert drove me out in the pony phaeton
till nearly six--such a drive! Really to be able to sit in one’s pony
carriage, and to see such wild, beautiful scenery as we did, the
farthest point being only five miles from the house, is an immense
delight. We drove along _Glen Tilt_, through a wood overhanging the
river _Tilt_, which joins the _Garry_, and as we left the wood we
came upon such a lovely view--_Ben-y-Ghlo_ straight before us--and
under these high hills the river _Tilt_ gushing and winding over stones
and slates, and the hills and mountains skirted at the bottom with
beautiful trees; the whole lit up by the sun; and the air so pure and
fine; but no description can at all do it justice, or give an idea of
what this drive was.
Oh! what can equal the beauties of nature! What enjoyment there is
in them! Albert enjoys it so much; he is in ecstasies here. He has
inherited this love for nature from his dear father.
We went as far as the _Marble Lodge_, a keeper’s cottage, and came back
the same way.
_Monday, September 16._
After our luncheon at half-past three, Albert drove me (Lord Glenlyon
riding with us) to the _Falls of the Bruar_. We got out at the road,
and walked to the upper falls, and down again by the path on the
opposite side. It is a walk of three miles round, and a very steep
ascent; at every turn the view of the rushing falls is extremely fine,
and looking back on the hills, which were so clear and so beautifully
lit up, with the rapid stream below, was most exquisite. We threw
stones down to see the effect in the water. The trees which surround
the falls were planted by the late Duke of Athole in compliance with
Burns’s “_Petition_.”[15]
[15] _The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the Noble Duke of Athole._
The evening was beautiful, and we feasted our eyes on the
ever-changing, splendid views of the hills and vales as we drove back.
Albert said that the chief beauty of mountain scenery consisted in its
frequent changes. We came home at six o’clock.
_Tuesday, September 17._
At a quarter to four o’clock we drove out, Albert driving me, and the
ladies and Lord Glenlyon following in another carriage. We drove to
the _Pass of Killiecrankie_, which looked in its greatest beauty and
splendour, and appeared quite closed, so that one could not imagine how
one was to get out of it. We drove over a bridge to the right, where
the view of the pass both ways, with the _Garry_ below, is beautiful.
We got out a little way beyond this and walked on a mile to the _Falls
of the Tummel_, the stream of which is famous for salmon; these falls,
however, are not so fine, or nearly so high, as those of the _Bruar_.
We got home at half-past six; the day was fast fading, and the lights
were lovely.
We watched two stags fighting just under our window; they are in an
enclosure, and roar incessantly.
_Wednesday, September 18._
At nine o’clock we set off on ponies, to go up one of the hills, Albert
riding the dun pony and I the grey, attended only by Lord Glenlyon’s
excellent servant, Sandy McAra, in his Highland dress. We went out by
the back way across the road, and to the left through the ford, Sandy
leading my pony and Albert following closely, the water reaching up
above Sandy’s knees. We then went up the hill of _Tulloch_, first
straight up a very steep cabbage-field, and then in a zigzag manner
round, till we got up to the top; the ponies scrambling up over stones
and everything, and never making a false step; and the view all round
being splendid and most beautifully lit up. We went up to the very
highest top, which cannot be seen from the house or from below; and
from here the view is like a panorama: you see the _Falls of the
Bruar_, _Ben-y-Chat_, _Ben Vrackie_, _Ben-y-Ghlo_, the _Killiecrankie
Pass_, and a whole range of distant hills on the other side, which
one cannot at all see from below. In the direction of _Taymouth_ you
also see _Dalnacardoch_, the first stage from _Blair_. _Blair_ itself
and the houses in the village looked like little toys from the great
height we were on. It was quite romantic. Here we were with only this
Highlander behind us holding the ponies (for we got off twice and
walked about)--not a house, not a creature near us, but the pretty
Highland sheep, with their horns and black faces,--up at the top of
_Tulloch_, surrounded by beautiful mountains.
We came back the same way that we went, and stopped at the ford to let
the ponies drink before we rode through. We walked from inside the
gate, and came home at half-past eleven,--the most delightful, most
romantic ride and walk I ever had. I had never been up such a mountain,
and then the day was so fine. The hill of _Tulloch_ is covered with
grass, and is so delightfully soft to walk upon.
_Thursday, September 19._
Albert set off, immediately after luncheon, deer-stalking, and I was
to follow and wait below in order to see the deer driven down. At four
o’clock I set off with Lady Glenlyon and Lady Canning, Mr. Oswald
and Lord Charles Wellesley riding, by the lower _Glen Tilt_ drive.
We stopped at the end; but were still in the wood; Sandy was looking
out and watching. After waiting we were allowed to come out of the
carriage, and came upon the road, where we saw some deer on the brow
of the hill. We sat down on the ground, Lady Canning and I sketching,
and Sandy and Mr. Oswald, both in Highland costume, (the same that
they all wear here, viz. a grey cloth jacket and waistcoat, with a
kilt and a Highland bonnet,) lying on the grass and looking through
glasses. After waiting again some time, we were told in a mysterious
whisper that “they were coming,” and indeed a great herd _did_ appear
on the brow of the hill, and came running down a good way, when most
provokingly two men who were walking on the road--which they had no
business to have done--suddenly came in sight, and then the herd all
ran back again and the sport was spoilt. After waiting some little
while we observed Albert, Lord Glenlyon, and the keepers on the brow of
the hill, and we got into the carriage, drove a little way, went over
the bridge, where there is a shepherd’s “shiel,” and got out and waited
for them to join us, which they did almost immediately,--looking very
picturesque with their rifles. My poor Albert had not even fired one
shot for fear of spoiling the whole thing, but had been running about a
good deal. The group of keepers and dogs was very pretty. After talking
and waiting a little while, we walked some way on, and then Albert
drove home with us.
_Saturday, September 21._