Transcriber’s Notes.
Hyphenation has been standardised.
Footnotes were moved to the ends of the text they pertain to
and numbered in one continuous sequence.
The words ‘gillie’ and ‘ghillie’ have been left unchanged.
Both spellings appear to be acceptable.
Other changes made are noted at the end of the book.
[Illustration: BALMORAL.
_From a Photograph by Whitlock, Birmingham._]
LEAVES
FROM THE JOURNAL
OF
OUR LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,
FROM 1848 TO 1861.
TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED AND ADDED EXTRACTS FROM THE SAME
JOURNAL GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF
EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND,
AND TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND,
AND
YACHTING EXCURSIONS.
_EDITED BY ARTHUR HELPS._
LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER AND CO.
1868.
[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]
TO
THE DEAR MEMORY OF HIM
WHO MADE THE LIFE OF THE WRITER BRIGHT AND HAPPY,
THESE SIMPLE RECORDS
ARE LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED.
EDITOR’S PREFACE.
The circumstances which have led to the publication of this Volume are,
briefly, these.
During one of the Editor’s official visits to Balmoral, her Majesty
very kindly allowed him to see several extracts from her journal,
relating to excursions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much
interested by them; and expressed the interest which he felt. It then
occurred to her Majesty that these extracts, referring, as they did,
to some of the happiest hours of her life, might be made into a book,
to be printed privately, for presentation to members of the Royal
Family and her Majesty’s intimate friends; especially to those who had
accompanied and attended her in these tours.
It was then suggested to her Majesty by some persons, among them a near
and dear relative of the Queen, and afterwards by the Editor, that this
work, if made known to others, would be very interesting to them as
well as to the Royal Family and to her Majesty’s intimate friends. The
Queen, however, said, that she had no skill whatever in authorship;
that these were, for the most part, mere homely accounts of excursions
near home; and that she felt extremely reluctant to publish anything
written by herself.
To this the Editor respectfully replied, that, if printed at all,
however limited the impression, and however careful the selection of
persons to whom copies might be given, some portions of the volume, or
quite as probably incorrect representations of its contents, might find
their way into the public journals. It would therefore, he thought, be
better at once to place the volume within the reach of her Majesty’s
subjects, who would, no doubt, derive from it pleasure similar to that
which it had afforded to the Editor himself. Moreover, it would be very
gratifying to her subjects, who had always shown a sincere and ready
sympathy with the personal joys and sorrows of their Sovereign,--to
be allowed to know how her rare moments of leisure were passed in
her Highland home, when every joy was heightened, and every care and
sorrow diminished, by the loving companionship of the Prince Consort.
With his memory the scenes to which this volume refers would always be
associated.
Upon these considerations her Majesty eventually consented to its
publication.
While the book was being printed, the Editor suggested that it would
gain in interest if other extracts were added to it, describing her
Majesty’s progresses in England, Ireland, and the Channel Islands.
The Queen was pleased to assent; and the additions were accordingly
made.
* * * * *
It will easily be seen that this little work does not make any
pretension to be more than such a record of the impressions received by
the Royal Author in the course of these journeys, as might hereafter
serve to recall to her own mind the scenes and circumstances which
had been the source of so much pleasure. All references to political
questions, or to the affairs of Government, have, for obvious reasons,
been studiously omitted. The book is mainly confined to the natural
expressions of a mind rejoicing in the beauties of nature, and
throwing itself, with a delight rendered keener by the rarity of its
opportunities, into the enjoyment of a life removed, for the moment,
from the pressure of public cares.
* * * * *
It would not be becoming in the Editor to dwell largely upon the merits
of this work. He may, however, allude to the picturesque descriptions
of scenery in which the work abounds; to the simplicity of diction
throughout it; and to the perfect faithfulness of narration which
is one of its chief characteristics; for in every page the writer
describes what she thinks and feels, rather than what she might be
expected to think and feel.
Moreover, he may point out the willingness to be pleased, upon which
so much of the enjoyment of any tour depends: and also the exceeding
kindliness of feeling--the gratitude even--with which the Royal
Tourists recognize any attention paid to them, or any manifestation
of the cordial attachment felt towards them, by any of her Majesty’s
subjects, from the highest to the humblest, whom they happen to meet
with in the course of their journeys.
* * * * *
The Editor thinks that he should not be doing justice to the Royal
Author’s book--not doing what, if it were any other person’s work which
was entrusted to his editing, he should do--if he were to forbear
giving utterance to the thoughts which occurred to him in reference to
the notes to the Volume.
These notes, besides indicating that peculiar memory for persons,
and that recognition of personal attachment, which have been very
noticeable in our Sovereigns, illustrate, in a striking manner, the
Patriarchal feeling (if one may apply such a word as “patriarchal” to a
lady) which is so strong in the present occupant of the Throne. Perhaps
there is no person in these realms who takes a more deep and abiding
interest in the welfare of the household committed to his charge than
our gracious Queen does in hers, or who feels more keenly what are the
reciprocal duties of masters and servants.
Nor does any one wish more ardently than her Majesty, that there should
be no abrupt severance of class from class, but rather a gradual
blending together of all classes,--caused by a full community of
interests, a constant interchange of good offices, and a kindly respect
felt and expressed by each class to all its brethren in the great
brotherhood that forms a nation.
Those whose duty it has been to attend upon the Queen in matters of
business, must have noticed that her Majesty, as a person well versed
in the conduct of affairs, is wont to keep closely to the point at
issue, and to speak of nothing but what is directly connected with
the matter before her. But whenever there is an exception to this
rule, it arises from her Majesty’s anxious desire to make some inquiry
about the welfare of her subjects--to express her sympathy with this
man’s sorrow, or on that man’s bereavement--to ask what is the latest
intelligence about this disaster, or that suffering, and what can be
done to remedy or assuage it--thus showing, unconsciously, that she is,
indeed, the Mother of her People, taking the deepest interest in all
that concerns them, without respect of persons, from the highest to the
lowest.
* * * * *
The Editor thinks that one point of interest which will incidentally
be disclosed by this publication, is the aspect of the Court in these
our times. What would not the historian give to have similar materials
within his reach, when writing about the reigns of the great Queen
Elizabeth or the good Queen Anne? There is always something in the
present which has the appearance of being trivial and prosaic; but the
future historian will delight in having details before him furnished by
this book and by the _Life of the Prince Consort_[1], which will enable
him fully to describe the reign of Victoria, and justly to appreciate
the private life of a Sovereign whose public life will enter so largely
into the annals of the nineteenth century.
[1] A work which has met with a very cordial reception from the
public, and which, from what the Editor has seen, will not by any means
diminish in interest as it proceeds to describe the full and busy life
of the Prince as a man.
One more remark the Editor cannot refrain from making; namely, that
it is evident that her Majesty never takes for granted the services
and attentions which are rendered to her, and which we all know would
be rendered to her from dutiful respect and regard, but views them as
especial kindnesses shown to herself, and to which she makes no claim
whatever from her exalted position as a Sovereign.
This latter trait, very characteristic of the Royal Author, gives,
throughout, an additional charm to the book, which, on that account
alone, and apart even from its many other merits, will, the Editor
doubts not, be gratefully and affectionately welcomed by the public.
LONDON,
_January, 1868_.
CONTENTS.
EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.
DATE PAGE
First Visit to Scotland 29 Aug. 1842 1
Visit to Blair Athole 9 Sept. 1844 29
Tour round the West Coast of Scotland and
Visit to Ardverikie 11 Aug. 1847 43
LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, 1848-1861.
First Impressions of Balmoral 8 Sept. 1848 65
First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar 16 Sept. 1848 67
A “Drive” in the Balloch Buie 18 Sept. 1848 71
The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach 30 Aug. 1849 73
A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods 3 Sept. 1849 76
Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c. 11 Sept. 1849 78
Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd 6 Sept. 1850 81
The Gathering 12 Sept. 1850 83
Salmon Leistering 13 Sept. 1850 85
Loch Muich 16 Sept. 1850 87
Torch-light Ball at Corriemulzie 10 Sept. 1852 89
Account of the News of the Duke of
Wellington’s Death 16 Sept. 1852 91
Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, &c. 11 Oct. 1852 95
Laying the Foundation Stone of our New
House 28 Sept. 1853 99
The Kirk 29 Oct. 1854 102
Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral 7 Sept. 1855 103
Impressions of the New Castle 8 Sept. 1855 104
News of the Fall of Sevastopol 10 Sept. 1855 105
The Betrothal of the Princess Royal 29 Sept. 1855 107
The Kirk 14 Oct. 1855 108
Finding the Old Castle Gone 30 Aug. 1856 109
Gardens, &c. round the New Castle 31 Aug. 1856 110
Love for Balmoral 13 Oct. 1856 111
Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of
Dee 8 Sept. 1857 112
Visits to the Old Women 26 Sept. 1857 113
Visit to the Prince’s Encampment at Feithort 6 Oct. 1857 115
A Fall of Snow 18 Sept. 1858 117
Ascent of Morven 14 Sept. 1859 121
The Prince’s Return from Aberdeen 15 Sept. 1859 123
Fête to the Members of the British Association 22 Sept. 1859 124
Expedition to Inchrory 30 Sept. 1859 127
Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui 7 Oct. 1859 130
First Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie and
Grantown 4 Sept. 1860 134
Second Great Expedition:--To Invermark
and Fettercairn 20 Sept. 1861 144
Expedition to Loch Avon 28 Sept. 1861 153
Third Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie,
Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole 8 Oct. 1861 156
Last Expedition 16 Oct. 1861 167
TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING EXCURSIONS.
First Visit to Ireland 2 Aug. 1849 175
Yachting Excursion 20 Aug. 1846 195
Second Yachting Excursion 2 Sept. 1846 203
Visit to the Lakes of Killarney 27 Aug. 1861 216
_Directions to the Binder._
Balmoral FRONTISPIECE.
Balmoral--The old Castle TO FACE PAGE 65
The Shiel of Alt-na-Giuthasach ” 73
Balmoral Castle from the North-West ” 111
Fording the Poll Tarf ” 164
Luncheon at Cairn Lochan ” 169
_EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND._
FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND.
_On Board the Royal George Yacht,
Monday, August 29, 1842._
At five o’clock in the morning we left _Windsor_ for the railroad,
the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel
Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton,
and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone on to
_Woolwich_.
We reached _London_ at a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and
arrived at _Woolwich_ before seven. Albert and I immediately stepped
into our barge. There was a large crowd to see us embark. The Duke
of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and Sir
George Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir George handed me into
the barge. It was raining very hard when we got on board, and therefore
we remained in our sitting-room.
I annex a list of our squadron:—
1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns.
2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns--(both of which join us at the _Nore_).
3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board).
4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on
board).
5. The steam-vessel “Monkey” Tender, which has towed us till nine
o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board).
6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James
Clark on board).
7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board, and
which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”).
8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jäger Benda, and our two
dogs, “Eôs” and “Cairnach,” on board) in front, which has gone to take
our barge on board from the “Pique.”
9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey).
This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-House steamer
goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innumerable little pleasure
steamboats have been following us covered with people.
_Tuesday, August 30._
We heard, to our great distress, that we had only gone 58 miles since
eight o’clock last night. How annoying and provoking this is! We
remained on deck all day lying on sofas; the sea was very rough towards
evening, and I was very ill. We reached _Flamborough Head_ on the
Yorkshire coast by half-past five.
_Wednesday, August 31._
At five o’clock in the morning we heard, to our great vexation, that we
had only been going three knots an hour in the night, and were 50 miles
from _St. Abb’s Head_.
We passed _Coquet Island_ and _Bamborough Castle_ on the Northumberland
coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see; but from my cabin
I saw _Ferne Island_, with Grace Darling’s lighthouse on it; also
_Rocky Islands_ and _Holy Island_. At half-past five I went on deck,
and immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch coast,
which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild, totally unlike
our coast. We passed _St. Abb’s Head_ at half-past six. Numbers of
fishing-boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and steamers full
of people came out to meet us, and on board of one large steamer they
danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful evening, calm, with a fine
sunset, and the air so pure.
One cannot help noticing how much longer the days are here than they
were in _England_. It was not really dark till past eight o’clock,
and on Monday and Tuesday evening at _Windsor_ it was nearly dark by
half-past seven, quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance,
which they did to the sound of a violin played by a little sailor-boy;
they also sang.
We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine, and saw many
bonfires on the Scotch coast--at _Dunbar_--Lord Haddington’s place,
_Tyninghame_, and at other points on the coast. We let off four
rockets, and burned two blue lights. It is surprising to see the
sailors climb on the bowsprit and up to the top of the mast-head--this
too at all times of the day and night. The man who carried the lantern
to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to the top. They are so
handy and so well conducted.
We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our journey’s end.
_Thursday, September 1._
At a quarter to one o’clock, we heard the anchor let down--a welcome
sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one
side were _Leith_ and the high hills towering over _Edinburgh_, which
was in fog; and on the other side was to be seen the _Isle of May_
(where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth), the _Bass Rock_
being behind us. At ten minutes past eight we arrived at _Granton
Pier_, where we were met by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and
others. They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us that the
people were all in the highest good-humour, though naturally a little
disappointed at having waited for us yesterday. We then stepped over a
gangway on to the pier, the people cheering, and the Duke saying that
he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had
landed before us, safe and well, and we two got into a barouche, the
ladies and gentlemen following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson
rode.
There were, however, not nearly so many people in _Edinburgh_, though
the crowd and crush were such that one was really continually in fear
of accidents. More regularity and order would have been preserved had
there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost about giving
due notice of our approach. The impression _Edinburgh_ has made upon
us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike anything else
I have seen; and what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says
it is unlike anything _he_ ever saw; it is so regular, everything built
of massive stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. The _High
Street_, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated
on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the
other side the _Calton Hill_, with the _National Monument_, a building
in the Grecian style; _Nelson’s Monument_; _Burns’ Monument_; the
_Gaol_; the _National School_, &c.; all magnificent buildings, and
with _Arthur’s Seat_ in the background, over-topping the whole, form
altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and
the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard[2] met
us and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is composed
entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the
carriage; but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst them were the Duke
of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side; and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s
side. Lord Elcho[3] (whom I did not know at the time) pointed out the
various monuments and places to me as we came along. When we were out
of the town, we went faster. Every cottage is built of stone, and so
are all the walls that are used as fences.
[2] The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day, that the Archers Guard
was established by James I., and was composed of men who were mounted
and armed from head to foot, and who were bound always to be near the
Sovereign’s person. At Flodden Field, King James IV.’s body, it is
said, was found covered and surrounded by the bodies of the Archers
Guard.
[3] Now Earl of Wemyss.
The country and people have quite a different character from _England_
and the English. The old women wear close caps, and all the children
and girls are bare-footed. I saw several handsome girls and children
with long hair; indeed all the poor girls from sixteen and seventeen
down to two or three years old, have loose flowing hair; a great deal
of it red.
As we came along we saw _Craigmillar Castle_, a ruin, where Mary, Queen
of Scots, used to live. We reached _Dalkeith_ at eleven; a large house,
constructed of reddish stone, the greater part built by the Duchess
of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and large. The house has three
fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. The
Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we were shown up a
very handsome staircase to our rooms, which are very comfortable. We
both felt dreadfully tired and giddy.
We drove out together. The park is very extensive, with a beautiful
view of _Arthur’s Seat_ and the _Pentland Hills_; and there is a pretty
drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we dined--a large party.
Everybody was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our
voyage.
_Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2._
At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I think very good,
and also some of the “Finnan haddies.” We then walked out. The
pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beautiful, wild and hilly. We
walked down along the stream (the river _Esk_), up a steep bank to a
little cottage, and came home by the upper part of the walk. At four
o’clock we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of
Norfolk--the Duke and equerries riding--the others in another carriage.
We drove through _Dalkeith_, which was full of people, all running and
cheering.
Albert says that many of the people look like Germans. The old women
with that kind of cap which they call a “mutch,” and the young girls
and children with flowing hair, and many of them pretty, are very
picturesque; you hardly see any women with bonnets.
Such a thick “Scotch mist” came on that we were obliged to drive home
through the village of _Lasswade_, and through Lord Melville’s Park,
which is very fine.
_Saturday, September 3._
At ten o’clock we set off--we two in the barouche--all the others
following, for _Edinburgh_. We drove in under _Arthur’s Seat_, where
the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers
met us; Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh and Sir
J. Hope on Albert’s side. We passed by _Holyrood Chapel_, which is
very old and full of interest, and _Holyrood Palace_, a royal-looking
old place. The procession moved through the _Old Town_ up the _High
Street_, which is a most extraordinary street from the immense height
of the houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and different
families living in each story. Every window was crammed full of people.
They showed us _Knox’s House_, a curious old building, as is also the
_Regent Murray’s House_, which is in perfect preservation. In the _Old
Town_ the _High Church_, and _St. Paul’s_ in the _New Town_, are very
fine buildings. At the barrier, the Provost presented us with the keys.
The girls of the _Orphan Asylum_, and the Trades in old costumes, were
on a platform. Further on was the _New Church_, to which--strange to
say, as the church is nearly finished--they were going to lay the
foundation stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of which
we walked.
The view from both batteries is splendid, like a panorama in extent. We
saw from them _Heriot’s Hospital_, a beautiful old building, founded,
in the time of James, by a goldsmith and jeweller, whom Sir Walter
Scott has made famous in his _Fortunes of Nigel_. After this, we got
again into the carriages and proceeded in the same way as before, the
pressure of the crowd being really quite alarming; and both I and
Albert were quite terrified for the Archers Guard, who had very hard
work of it; but were of the greatest use. They all carry a bow in one
hand, and have their arrows stuck through their belts.
Unfortunately, as soon as we were out of _Edinburgh_, it began to
rain, and continued raining the whole afternoon without interruption.
We reached _Dalmeny_, Lord Roseberry’s, at two o’clock. The park is
beautiful, with the trees growing down to the sea. It commands a very
fine view of the _Forth_, the _Isle of May_, the _Bass Rock_, and
of _Edinburgh_; but the mist rendered it almost impossible to see
anything. The grounds are very extensive, being hill and dale and
wood. The house is quite modern: Lord Roseberry built it, and it is
very pretty and comfortable. We lunched there. The Roseberrys were
all civility and attention. We left them about half-past three, and
proceeded home through _Leith_.
The view of _Edinburgh_ from the road before you enter _Leith_ is quite
enchanting; it is, as Albert said, “fairy-like,” and what you would
only imagine as a thing to dream of, or to see in a picture. There
was that beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled colours of
brick to mar it), with the bold Castle on one side, and the _Calton
Hill_ on the other, with those high sharp hills of _Arthur’s Seat_ and
_Salisbury Crags_ towering above all, and making the finest, boldest
background imaginable. Albert said he felt sure the _Acropolis_ could
not be finer; and I hear they sometimes call _Edinburgh_ “the modern
_Athens_.” The Archers Guard met us again at _Leith_, which is not a
pretty town.
The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd very great. The
Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch caps, and their horses
decorated with flowers, had a very singular effect; but the fishwomen
are the most striking-looking people, and are generally young and
pretty women--very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their white caps
and bright-coloured petticoats. They never marry out of their class.
At six we returned well tired.
_Sunday, September 4._
We walked to see the new garden which is being made, and saw Mackintosh
there, who was formerly gardener at _Claremont_. The view of _Dalkeith_
(the village, or rather town) from thence is extremely picturesque,
and Albert says very German-looking. We returned over a rough sort of
bridge, made only of planks, which crosses the _Esk_, and which, with
the wooded banks on each side, is excessively pretty. Received from
Lady Lyttelton good accounts of our little children. At twelve o’clock
there were prayers in the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached.
At half-past four the Duchess drove me out in her own phaeton, with
a very pretty pair of chestnut ponies, Albert riding with the Duke
and Colonel Bouverie. We drove through parts of the park, through an
old wood, and along the banks of the _South Esk_ and the _North Esk_,
which meet at a point from which there is such a beautiful view of the
_Pentland Hills_. Then we drove, by a private road, to _Newbattle_,
Lord Lothian’s place. The park is very fine, and the house seems large;
we got out to look at a most magnificent beech-tree. The _South Esk_
runs close before the house, by a richly wooded bank.
From thence we went to _Dalhousie_, Lord Dalhousie’s. The house is a
real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone. We got out for a moment, and
the Dalhousies showed us the drawing-room. From the window you see a
beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the distant hills.
Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British sovereign there since
Henry IV. We drove home by the same way that we came. The evening
was--as the whole day had been--clear, bright, and frosty, and the
_Moorfoot Hills_ (another range) looked beautiful as we were returning.
It was past seven when we got home.
_Monday, September 5._
I held a Drawing-room at _Dalkeith_ to-day, in the gallery. The
Ministers and Scotch Officers of State were in the room, and the Royal
Archers were in attendance in the room and outside of it, like the
Gentlemen at Arms in _London_. Before the Drawing-room I received three
addresses--from the Lord Provost and Magistrates, from the Scotch
Church, and from the Universities of _St. Andrews_, _Glasgow_, and
_Edinburgh_--to which I read answers. Albert received his just after I
did mine, and read his answers beautifully.
_Tuesday, September 6._
At nine o’clock we left _Dalkeith_ as we came. It was a bright, clear,
cold, frosty morning. As we drove along we saw the _Pentlands_, which
looked beautiful, as did also _Arthur’s Seat_, which we passed quite
close by. The _Salisbury Crags_, too, are very high, bold, and sharp.
Before this we saw _Craigmillar_. We passed through a back part of the
town (which is most solidly built), close by _Heriot’s Hospital_, and
had a very fine view of the Castle.
I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, we saw the Regalia,
which are very old and curious (they were lost for one hundred years);
also the room in which James VI. of Scotland and the First of England
was born--such a very, very small room, with an old prayer written on
the wall. We had a beautiful view of _Edinburgh_ and the _Forth_. At
_Craigleith_ (only a half-way house, nine miles) we changed horses.
The Duke rode with us all the way as Lord-Lieutenant of the county,
until we arrived at _Dalmeny_, where Lord Hopetoun met us and rode with
us. At eleven we reached the _South Queensferry_, where we got out of
our carriage and embarked in a little steamer; the ladies and gentlemen
and our carriages going in another. We went a little way up the
_Forth_, to see _Hopetoun House_, Lord Hopetoun’s, which is beautifully
situated between _Hopetoun_ and _Dalmeny_. We also saw _Dundas Castle_,
belonging to Dundas of Dundas, and further on, beyond _Hopetoun_,
_Blackness Castle_, famous in history. On the opposite side you see
a square tower, close to the water, called _Rosyth_, where Oliver
Cromwell’s mother was said to have been born, and in the distance
_Dunfermline_, where Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a
very pretty island in the _Forth_, with an old castle on it, called
_Inchgarvie_; and we could see the Forth winding beautifully, and had
a distant glimpse of _Edinburgh_ and its fine Castle. We landed safely
on the other side, at _North Queensferry_, and got into our carriages.
Captain Wemyss, elder brother to General Wemyss, rode with us all the
way beyond _Cowdenbeath_ (eight miles). The first village we passed
through on leaving the _Queensferry_, was _Inverkeithing_. We passed by
Sir P. Durham’s property.
We changed horses at _Cowdenbeath_. At a quarter-past one we entered
_Kinross-shire_. Soon after, the country grew prettier, and the hills
appeared again, partly wooded. We passed _Loch Leven_, and saw the
castle on the lake from which poor Queen Mary escaped. There the
country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side. We changed
horses next at _Kinross_. Soon after this, the mountains, which are
rather barren, began to appear. Then we passed the valley of _Glen
Farg_; the hills are very high on each side, and completely wooded down
to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs on one side of
the road--it is really lovely.
On leaving this valley you come upon a beautiful view of _Strathearn_
and _Moncrieffe Hill_. We were then in _Perthshire_. We changed horses
next at the _Bridge of Earn_ (12 miles). At half-past three we reached
_Dupplin_, Lord Kinnoull’s. All the time the views of the hills, and
dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of the road very bad
travelling, up and down hill. _Dupplin_ is a very fine modern house,
with a very pretty view of the hills on one side, and a small waterfall
close in front of the house. A battalion of the 42nd Highlanders was
drawn up before the house, and the men looked very handsome in their
kilts. We each received an address from the nobility and gentry of the
county, read by Lord Kinnoull; and from the Provost and Magistrates
of _Perth_. We then lunched. The Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens,
and Lord Mansfield, and one of his sisters, with others, were there.
After luncheon, we walked a little way in the grounds, and then at
five o’clock we set off again. We very soon came upon _Perth_, the
situation of which is quite lovely; it is on the _Tay_, with wooded
hills skirting it entirely on one side, and hills are seen again in the
distance, the river winding beautifully.
Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of the situation of
_Basle_. The town itself (which is very pretty) was immensely crowded,
and the people very enthusiastic; triumphal arches had been erected
in various places. The Provost presented me with the keys, and Albert
with the freedom of the city. Two miles beyond is _Scone_ (Lord
Mansfield’s), a fine-looking house of reddish stone.
Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mansfield received us at the door,
and took us to our rooms, which were very nice.
_Wednesday, September 7._
We walked out, and saw the mound on which the ancient Scotch kings were
always crowned; also the old arch with James VI.’s arms, and the old
cross, which is very interesting.
Before our windows stands a sycamore-tree planted by James VI. A
curious old book was brought to us from _Perth_, in which the last
signatures are those of James I. (of England) and of Charles I., and
we were asked to write our names in it, and we did so. Lord Mansfield
told me yesterday that there were some people in the town who wore the
identical dresses that had been worn in Charles I.’s time. At eleven
o’clock we set off as before. We drove through part of _Perth_, and
had a very fine view of _Scone_. A few miles on, we passed the field
of battle of _Luncarty_, where tradition says the Danes were beaten by
Lord Erroll’s ancestor. We also passed Lord Lynedoch’s property. We
then changed horses at the “New Inn” at _Auchtergaven_. The _Grampians_
came now distinctly into view; they are indeed a grand range of
mountains.
To the left we saw _Tullybelton_, where it is said the Druids used to
sacrifice to Bel; there are a few trees on the top of the mountain.
To the left; but more immediately before us, we saw _Birnam_, where
once stood _Birnam Wood_, so renowned in _Macbeth_. We passed a pretty
shooting place of Sir W. Stewart’s, called _Rohallion_, nearly at the
foot of _Birnam_. To the right we saw the _Stormont_ and _Strathtay_.
Albert said, as we came along between the mountains, that to the
right, where they were wooded, it was very like _Thüringen_, and on the
left more like _Switzerland_. _Murthly_, to the right, which belongs
to Sir W. Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with the _Tay_ winding
under the hill. This lovely scenery continues all along to _Dunkeld_.
Lord Mansfield rode with us the whole way.
Just outside _Dunkeld_, before a triumphal arch, Lord Glenlyon’s
Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and formed our guard--a piper
playing before us. _Dunkeld_ is beautifully situated in a narrow
valley, on the banks of the _Tay_. We drove in to where the Highlanders
were all drawn up, in the midst of their encampments, and where a tent
was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord Glenlyon[4] received us; but
he had suddenly become totally blind, which is dreadful for him. He was
led about by his wife; it was very melancholy. His blindness was caused
by over-fatigue. The Dowager Lady Glenlyon, the Mansfields, Kinnoulls,
Buccleuchs, and many others were there. We walked down the ranks of the
Highlanders, and then partook of luncheon, the piper played, and one of
the Highlanders[5] danced the “sword dance.” (Two swords crossed are
laid upon the ground, and the dancer has to dance across them without
touching them.) Some of the others danced a reel.
[4] The late Duke of Athole.
[5] Charles Christie, now steward to the present Dowager Duchess of
Athole.
At a quarter to four we left _Dunkeld_ as we came, the Highland Guard
marching with us till we reached the outside of the town. The drive
was quite beautiful all the way to _Taymouth_.[6] The two highest
hills of the range on each side are (to the right, as you go on after
leaving _Dunkeld_) _Craig-y-Barns_ and (to the left, immediately above
_Dunkeld_) _Craigvinean_. The _Tay_ winds along beautifully, and the
hills are richly wooded. We changed horses first at _Balanagard_ (nine
miles), to which place Captain Murray, Lord Glenlyon’s brother, rode
with us. The hills grew higher and higher, and Albert said it was very
Swiss-looking in some parts. High ribbed mountains appeared in the
distance, higher than any we have yet seen. This was near _Aberfeldy_
(nine miles), which is charmingly situated and the mountains very
lofty. At a quarter to six we reached _Taymouth_. At the gate a guard
of Highlanders, Lord Breadalbane’s men, met us. _Taymouth_ lies in a
valley surrounded by very high, wooded hills; it is most beautiful.
The house is a kind of castle, built of granite. The _coup-d’œil_ was
indescribable. There were a number of Lord Breadalbane’s Highlanders,
all in the Campbell tartan, drawn up in front of the house, with Lord
Breadalbane himself in a Highland dress at their head, a few of Sir
Neil Menzies’ men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number
of pipers playing, and a company of the 92nd Highlanders, also in
kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of the great crowd, the
picturesqueness of the dresses, the beauty of the surrounding country,
with its rich background of wooded hills, altogether formed one of the
finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as if a great chieftain in olden
feudal times was receiving his sovereign. It was princely and romantic.
Lord and Lady Breadalbane took us upstairs, the hall and stairs being
lined with Highlanders.
[6] I revisited Taymouth last autumn, on the 3rd of October, from
Dunkeld (incognita), with Louise, the Dowager Duchess of Athole, and
Miss MacGregor. As we could not have driven through the grounds without
asking permission, and we did not wish to be known, we decided upon
not attempting to do so, and contented ourselves with getting out at a
gate close to a small fort, into which we were led by a woman from the
gardener’s house, near to which we had stopped, and who had no idea who
we were.
We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house below, the
mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us everything; and then,
unknown, quite in private, I gazed--not without deep emotion--on the
scene of our reception twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane,
in a princely style, not to be equalled in grandeur and poetic effect.
Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are
gone that were with us then!
I was very thankful to have seen it again.
It seemed unaltered.--1866.
The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine; the whole of the house
is newly and exquisitely furnished. The drawing-room, especially, is
splendid. Thence you go into a passage and a library, which adjoins our
private apartments. They showed us two sets of apartments, and we chose
those which are on the right hand of the corridor or ante-room to the
library. At eight we dined. Staying in the house, besides ourselves,
are the Buccleuchs and the two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and
Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower,[7] the Abercorns, Roxburghs, Kinnoulls,
Lord Lauderdale, Sir Anthony Maitland, Lord Lorne,[8] the Fox Maules,
Belhavens, Mr. and Mrs. William Russell, Sir J. and Lady Elizabeth,
and the Misses Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady
Breadalbane. The dining-room is a fine room in Gothic style, and has
never been dined in till this day. Our apartments also are inhabited
for the first time. After dinner the grounds were most splendidly
illuminated,--a whole chain of lamps along the railings, and on the
ground was written in lamps, “Welcome Victoria--Albert.”
[7] Now Duchess of Argyll.
[8] The present Duke of Argyll.
A small fort, which is up in the woods, was illuminated, and bonfires
were burning on the tops of the hills. I never saw anything so
fairy-like. There were some pretty fireworks, and the whole ended by
the Highlanders dancing reels, which they do to perfection, to the
sound of the pipes, by torch-light, in front of the house. It had a
wild and very gay effect.
_Taymouth, Thursday, September 8._
Albert went off at half-past nine o’clock to shoot with Lord
Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk along a path
overlooking the _Tay_, which is very clear, and ripples and foams along
over the stones, the high mountains forming such a rich background. We
got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss cottage, built of quartz,
very clean and nice. From the top of it there is a very pretty view of
_Loch Tay_.
We returned home by the way we came. It rained the whole time, and very
hard for a little while. Albert returned at half-past three. He had
had excellent sport, and the trophies of it were spread out before the
house--nineteen roe-deer, several hares and pheasants, and three brace
of grouse; there was also a capercailzie that had been wounded, and
which I saw afterwards, a magnificent large bird.
Albert had been near _Aberfeldy_, and had to shoot and walk the whole
way back, Lord Breadalbane himself beating, and 300 Highlanders out. We
went out at five, with Lady Breadalbane and the Duchess of Sutherland;
we saw part of _Loch Tay_, and drove along the banks of the _Tay_ under
fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane’s American buffaloes.
_Friday, September 9._
Albert off again after nine o’clock, to shoot. Soon after he left I
walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk across the iron bridge, and
along a grass walk overhanging the _Tay_.
Two of the Highland Guard (they were stationed at almost every gate in
the park) followed us, and it looked like olden times to see them with
their swords drawn.
We then walked to a lodge on the same road. A fat, good-humoured little
woman, about forty years old, cut some flowers for each of us, and
the Duchess gave her some money, saying, “From Her Majesty.” I never
saw any one more surprised than she was; she, however, came up to
me and said very warmly, that my people were delighted to see me in
_Scotland_. It came on to rain very heavily soon afterwards, but we
walked on. We saw a woman in the river, with her dress tucked up almost
to her knees, washing potatoes.
The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on pouring
frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to three, having had
very hard work on the moors, wading up to his knees in bogs every
now and then, and had killed nine brace of grouse. We lunched; then
we went to the drawing-room, and saw from the window the Highlanders
dancing reels; but unfortunately it rained the whole time. There were
nine pipers at the castle; sometimes one, and sometimes three played.
They always played about breakfast-time, again during the morning, at
luncheon, and also whenever we went in and out; again before dinner,
and during most of dinnertime. We both have become quite fond of the
bagpipes.
At a quarter-past five we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch
and the Duchess of Sutherland (poor Lady Breadalbane not being very
well), Lord Breadalbane riding the whole time before us. We took a most
beautiful drive, first of all along part of the lake and between the
hills--such thorough mountain scenery,--and with little huts, so low,
so full of peat smoke, that one could hardly see anything for smoke. We
saw _Ben Lawers_, which is said to be 4,000 feet high, very well, and
further on, quite in the distance, _Ben More_--also the _Glenlyon_, and
the river _Lyon_, and many fine glens. It was quite dark when we came
home at half-past seven. At eight we dined; Lord and Lady Ruthven and
Lord and Lady Duncan dined here. After dinner came a number of people,
about ninety, and there was a ball. It opened with a quadrille, which I
danced with Lord Breadalbane, and Albert with the Duchess of Buccleuch.
A number of reels were danced, which it was very amusing and pretty to
see.
_Saturday, September 10._
We walked to the dairy and back--a fine bright morning; the weather the
two preceding days had been very unfortunate. I drove a little way with
Lady Breadalbane, the others walking, and then got out, and each of us
planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We got in again, and drove with
the whole party down to the lake, where we embarked. Lady Breadalbane,
the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth went by land, but all the
others went in boats. With us were Lord Breadalbane and the Duchess of
Norfolk and Duchess of Buccleuch; and two pipers sat on the bow and
played very often. I have since been reading in _The Lady of the Lake_,
and this passage reminds me of our voyage:—
“See the proud pipers on the bow,
And mark the gaudy streamers flow
From their loud chanters down, and sweep
The furrow’d bosom of the deep,
As, rushing through the lake amain,
They plied the ancient Highland strain.”
Our row of 16 miles up _Loch Tay_ to _Auchmore_, a cottage of Lord
Breadalbane’s, near the end of the lake, was the prettiest thing
imaginable. We saw the splendid scenery to such great advantage on
both sides: _Ben Lawers_, with small waterfalls descending its sides,
amid other high mountains wooded here and there; with _Kenmore_ in
the distance; the view, looking back, as the loch winds, was most
beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gaelic boat-songs, very wild and
singular; the language so guttural and yet so soft. Captain McDougall,
who steered, and who is the head of the McDougalls, showed us the
real “brooch of Lorn,” which was taken by his ancestor from Robert
Bruce in a battle. The situation of _Auchmore_ is exquisite; the trees
growing so beautifully down from the top of the mountains, quite into
the water, and the mountains all round, make it an enchanting spot.
We landed and lunched in the cottage, which is a very nice little
place. The day was very fine; the Highlanders were there again. We
left _Auchmore_ at twenty minutes past three, having arrived there at
a quarter before three. The kindness and attention to us of Lord and
of Lady Breadalbane (who is very delicate) were unbounded. We passed
_Killin_, where there is a mountain stream running over large stones,
and forming waterfalls.
The country we came to now was very wild, beginning at _Glen Dochart_,
through which the _Dochart_ flows; nothing but moors and very high
rocky mountains. We came to a small lake called, I think, _Laragilly_,
amidst the wildest and finest scenery we had yet seen. _Glen Ogle_,
which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind of the prints of
the _Kyber Pass_, the road going for some way down hill and up hill,
through these very high mountains, and the escort in front looking like
mere specks from the great height. We also saw _Ben Voirlich_. At _Loch
Earn Head_ we changed horses. Lord Breadalbane rode with us the whole
way up to this point, and then he put his Factor (in Highland dress) up
behind our carriage. It came on to rain, and rained almost the whole
of the rest of the time. We passed along _Loch Earn_, which is a very
beautiful long lake skirted by high mountains; but is not so long or
so large as _Loch Tay_. Just as we turned and went by _St. Fillans_,
the view of the lake was very fine. There is a large detached rock with
rich verdure on it, which is very striking.
We also saw _Glenartney_, the mountain on which Lord Willoughby has
his deer forest. We passed by Sir D. Dundas’s place, _Dunira_, before
we changed horses at _Comrie_, for the last time, and then by Mr.
Williamson’s, and by _Ochtertyre_, Sir W. Keith Murray’s.
Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We passed through
_Crieff_, and a little past seven reached _Drummond Castle_, by a very
steep ascent. Lord Willoughby received us at the door, and showed us to
our rooms, which are small but nice. Besides Lord and Lady Willoughby
and the two Misses Willoughby, and our own people, the dinner-party was
composed of the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth L. Gower, Lord
and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs. Heathcote, the Duke de Richelieu, Lord
Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and the officers of the Guard.
_Drummond Castle, Sunday, September 11._
We walked in the garden, which is really very fine, with terraces, like
an old French garden. Part of the old castle and the archway remains.
At twelve o’clock we had prayers in the drawing-room, which were read
by a young clergyman, who preached a good sermon.
It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writing, I read to Albert
the three first cantos of _The Lay of the Last Minstrel_, which
delighted us both; and then we looked over some curious, fine old
prints by Ridinger. At eight we dined. The Duchess of Sutherland and
Lady Elizabeth had gone; but Lord and Lady Abercorn and Lord and Lady
Kinnoull and their daughter added to the party.
_Monday, September 12._
Albert got up at five o’clock to go out deer-stalking. I walked out
with the Duchess of Norfolk.
All the Highlanders (Lord Willoughby’s people, 110 in number), were
drawn up in the court, young Mr. Willoughby and Major Drummond being
at their head, and I walked round with Lady Willoughby. All the arms
they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby; and there was one double-hilted
sword, which had been at the battle of _Bannockburn_. I hear that at
_Dunkeld_ there were nearly 900 Highlanders, 500 being _Athole_ men;
and, altogether, with the various Highlanders who were on guard, there
were 1,000 men.
At length--a little before three--to my joy, Albert returned,
dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired; he had shot a stag. He
said the exertion and difficulty were very great. He had changed his
dress at a small farm-house. _Glenartney_ is ten miles from _Drummond
Castle_; he drove there. Campbell of Monzie (pronounced “Monie”), a
young gentleman who has a place near here, went with him and was,
Albert said, extremely active. To give some description of this curious
sport, I will copy an extract from a letter Albert has written to
Charles,[9] giving a short account of it:—