THE LUXEMBOURG GARDENS
In this busy Quarter, where so many people are confined throughout the
day in work-shops and studios, a breathing-space becomes a necessity. The
gardens of the Luxembourg, brilliant in flowers and laid out in the
Renaissance, with shady groves and long avenues of chestnut-trees
stretching up to the Place de l'Observatoire, afford the great
breathing-ground for the Latin Quarter.
If one had but an hour to spend in the Quartier Latin, one could not
find a more interesting and representative sight of student life than
between the hours of four and five on Friday afternoon, when the
military band plays in the Luxembourg Gardens. This is the afternoon
when Bohemia is on parade. Then every one flocks here to see one's
friends--and a sort of weekly reception for the Quarter is held. The
walks about the band-stand are thronged with students and girls,
and hundreds of chairs are filled with an audience of the older
people--shopkeepers and their families, old women in white lace caps,
and gray-haired old men, many in straight-brimmed high hats of a mode of
twenty years past. Here they sit and listen to the music under the cool
shadow of the trees, whose rich foliage forms an arbor overhead--a roof
of green leaves, through which the sunbeams stream and in which the fat,
gray pigeons find a paradise.
[Illustration: THE CHILDREN'S SHOP--LUXEMBOURG GARDENS]
There is a booth near-by where waffles, cooked on a small oven in the
rear, are sold. In front are a dozen or more tables for ices and
drinkables. Every table and chair is taken within hearing distance of
the band. When these musicians of the army of France arrive, marching in
twos from their barracks to the stand, it is always the signal for that
genuine enthusiasm among the waiting crowd which one sees between the
French and their soldiers.
If you chance to sit among the groups at the little tables, and watch
the passing throng in front of you, you will see some queer "types,"
many of them seldom en evidence except on these Friday afternoons in the
Luxembourg. Buried, no doubt, in some garret hermitage or studio, they
emerge thus weekly to greet silently the passing world.
A tall poet stalks slowly by, reading intently, as he walks, a well-worn
volume of verses--his faded straw hat shading the tip of his long nose.
Following him, a boy of twenty, delicately featured, with that purity of
expression one sees in the faces of the good--the result of a life,
perhaps, given to his ideal in art. He wears his hair long and curling
over his ears, with a long stray wisp over one eye, the whole cropped
evenly at the back as it reaches his black velvet collar. He wears, too,
a dove-gray vest of fine corduroy, buttoned behind like those of the
clergy, and a velvet tam-o'-shanter-like cap, and carries between his
teeth a small pipe with a long goose-quill stem. You can readily see
that to this young man with high ideals there is only one corner of the
world worth living in, and that lies between the Place de l'Observatoire
and the Seine.
Three students pass, in wide broadcloth trousers, gathered in tight at
the ankles, and wearing wide-brimmed black hats. Hanging on the arm of
one of the trio is a short snub-nosed girl, whose Cleo-Merodic hair,
flattened in a bandeau over her ears, not only completely conceals them,
but all the rest of her face, except her two merry black eyes and her
saucy and neatly rouged lips. She is in black bicycle bloomers and a
white, short duck jacket--a straw hat with a wide blue ribbon band, and
a fluffy piece of white tulle tied at the side of her neck.
The throng moves slowly by you. It is impossible, in such a close
crowd, to be in a hurry; besides, one never is here.
Near-by sit two old ladies, evidently concierges from some atelier
court. One holds the printed program of the music, cut carefully from
her weekly newspaper; it is cheaper than buying one for two sous, and
these old concierges are economical.
In this Friday gathering you will recognize dozens of faces which you
have seen at the "Bal Bullier" and the cafes.
The girl in the blue tailor-made dress, with the little dog, who you
remember dined the night before at the Pantheon, is walking now arm in
arm with a tall man in black, a mourning band about his hat. The girl is
dressed in black, too--a mark of respect to her ami by her side. The
dog, who is so small that he slides along the walk every time his chain
is pulled, is now tucked under her arm.
One of the tables near the waffle stand is taken by a group of six
students and four girls. All of them have arrived at the table in the
last fifteen minutes--some alone, some in twos. The girl in the scarlet
gown and white kid slippers, who came with the queer-looking "type"
with the pointed beard, is Yvonne Gallois--a bonne camarade. She keeps
the rest in the best of spirits, for she is witty, this Yvonne, and a
great favorite with the crowd she is with. She is pretty, too, and has a
whole-souled good-humor about her that makes her ever welcome. The
fellow she came with is Delmet the architect--a great wag--lazy, but
full of fun--and genius.
The little girl sitting opposite Yvonne is Claire Dumont. She is
explaining a very sad "histoire" to the "type" next to her, intense in
the recital of her woes. Her alert, nervous little face is a study; when
words and expression fail, she shrugs her delicate shoulders, accenting
every sentence with her hands, until it seems as if her small, nervous
frame could express no more--and all about her little dog "Loisette!"
[Illustration: AT THE HEAD OF THE LUXEMBOURG GARDENS]
"Yes, the villain of a concierge at Edmond's studio swore at him twice,
and Sunday, when Edmond and I were breakfasting late, the old beast saw
'Loisette' on the stairs and threw water over her; she is a sale bete,
that grosse femme! She shall see what it will cost her, the old miser;
and you know I have always been most amiable with her. She is jealous
of me--that is it--oh! I am certain of it. Because I am young and
happy. Jealous of me! that's funny, is it not? The old pig! Poor
'Loisette'--she shivered all night with fright and from being wet.
Edmond and I are going to find another place. Yes, she shall see what it
will be there without us--with no one to depend upon for her snuff and
her wine. If she were concierge at Edmond's old atelier she would be
treated like that horrid old Madame Fouquet."
The boys in the atelier over her window hated this old Madame Fouquet, I
remember. She was always prying about and complaining, so they fished up
her pet gold-fish out of the aquarium on her window-sill, and fried them
on the atelier stove, and put them back in the window on a little plate
all garnished with carrots. She swore vengeance and called in the
police, but to no avail. One day they fished up the parrot in its cage,
and the green bird that screamed and squawked continually met a speedy
and painless death and went off to the taxidermist. Then the cage was
lowered in its place with the door left ajar, and the old woman felt
sure that her pet had escaped and would some day find his way back to
her--a thing this garrulous bird would never have thought of doing had
he had any say in the matter.
So the old lady left the door of the cage open for days in the event of
his return, and strange to tell, one morning Madame Fouquet got up to
quarrel with her next-door neighbor, and, to her amazement, there was
her green pet on his perch in his cage. She called to him, but he did
not answer; he simply stood on his wired legs and fixed his glassy eyes
on her, and said not a word--while the gang of Indians in the windows
above yelled themselves hoarse.
It was just such a crowd as this that initiated a "nouveau" once in one
of the ateliers. They stripped the new-comer, and, as is often the
custom on similar festive occasions, painted him all over with
sketches, done in the powdered water-colors that come in glass jars.
They are cheap and cover a lot of surface, so that the gentleman in
question looked like a human picture-gallery. After the ceremony, he was
put in a hamper and deposited, in the morning, in the middle of the Pont
des Arts, where he was subsequently found by the police, who carted him
off in a cab.
[Illustration: THE FONTAINE DE MEDICIS]
But you must see more of this vast garden of the Luxembourg to
appreciate truly its beauty and its charm. Filled with beautiful
sculpture in bronze and marble, with its musee of famous modern pictures
bought by the Government, with flower-beds brilliant in geraniums and
fragrant in roses, with the big basin spouting a jet of water in its
center, where the children sail their boats, and with that superb
"Fontaine de Medicis" at the end of a long, rectangular basin of
water--dark as some pool in a forest brook, the green vines trailing
about its sides, shaded by the rich foliage of the trees overhead.
On the other side of the Luxembourg you will find a garden of roses,
with a rich bronze group of Greek runners in the center, and near it,
back of the long marble balustrade, a croquet ground--a favorite spot
for several veteran enthusiasts who play here regularly, surrounded for
hours by an interested crowd who applaud and cheer the participants in
this passe sport.
This is another way of spending an afternoon at the sole cost of one's
leisure. It takes but little to amuse these people!
Often at the Punch and Judy show near-by, you will see two old
gentlemen,--who may have watched this same Punch and Judy show when they
were youngsters,--and who have been sitting for half an hour, waiting
for the curtain of the miniature theater to rise. It is popular--this
small "Theatre Guignol," and the benches in front are filled with the
children of rich and poor, who scream with delight and kick their
little, fat bare legs at the first shrill squeak of Mr. Punch. The three
who compose the staff of this tiny attraction have been long in its
service--the old harpist, and the good wife of the showman who knows
every child in the neighborhood, and her husband who is Mr. Punch, the
hangman, and the gendarme, and half a dozen other equally historical
personages. A thin, sad-looking man, this husband, gray-haired, with a
careworn look in his deep-sunken eyes, who works harder hourly, daily,
yearly, to amuse the heart of a child than almost any one I know.
The little box of a theater is stifling hot in summer, and yet he must
laugh and scream and sing within it, while his good wife collects the
sous, talking all the while to this and to that child whom she has known
since its babyhood; chatting with the nurses decked out in their
gay-colored, Alsatian bows, the ribbons reaching nearly to the ground.
A French nurse is a gorgeous spectacle of neatness and cleanliness, and
many of the younger ones, fresh from country homes in Normandy and
Brittany, with their rosy cheeks, are pictures of health. Wherever you
see a nurse, you will see a "piou-piou" not far away, which is a very
belittling word for the red-trousered infantryman of the Republique
Francaise.
Surrounding the Palais du Luxembourg, these "piou-pious," less fortunate
for the hour, stand guard in the small striped sentry-boxes, musket at
side, or pace stolidly up and down the flagged walk. Marie, at the
moment, is no doubt with the children of the rich Count, in a shady spot
near the music. How cruel is the fate of many a gallant "piou-piou"!
Farther down the gravel-walk strolls a young Frenchman and his
fiancee--the mother of his betrothed inevitably at her side! It is under
this system of rigid chaperonage that the young girl of France is given
in marriage. It is not to be wondered at that many of them marry to be
free, and that many of the happier marriages have begun with an
elopement!
[Illustration: THE PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG]
The music is over, and the band is filing out, followed by the crowd. A
few linger about the walks around the band-stand to chat. The old lady
who rents the chairs is stacking them up about the tree-trunks, and long
shadows across the walks tell of the approaching twilight. Overhead,
among the leaves, the pigeons coo. For a few moments the sun bathes
the great garden in a pinkish glow, then drops slowly, a blood-red disk,
behind the trees. The air grows chilly; it is again the hour to
dine--the hour when Paris wakes.
In the smaller restaurants of the Quarter one often sees some strange
contrasts among these true bohemians, for the Latin Quarter draws its
habitues from every part of the globe. They are not all French--these
happy-go-lucky fellows, who live for the day and let the morrow slide.
You will see many Japanese--some of them painters--many of them taking
courses in political economy, or in law; many of them titled men of high
rank in their own country, studying in the schools, and learning, too,
with that thoroughness and rapidity which are ever characteristic of
their race. You will find, too, Brazilians; gentlemen from Haiti of
darker hue; Russians, Poles, and Spaniards--men and women from every
clime and every station in life. They adapt themselves to the Quarter
and become a part of this big family of Bohemia easily and naturally.
In this daily atmosphere only the girl-student from our own shores seems
out of place. She will hunt for some small restaurant, sacred in its
exclusiveness and known only to a dozen bon camarades of the Quarter.
Perhaps this girl-student, it may be, from the West and her cousin from
the East will discover some such cosy little boite on their way back
from their atelier. To two other equally adventurous female minds they
will impart this newest find; after that you will see the four dining
there nightly together, as safe, I assure you, within these walls of
Bohemia as they would be at home rocking on their Aunt Mary's porch.
There is, of course, considerable awkwardness between these bon
camarades, to whom the place really belongs, and these very innocent
new-comers, who seek a table by themselves in a corner under the few
trees in front of the small restaurant. And yet every one is exceedingly
polite to them. Madame the patronne hustles about to see that the dinner
is warm and nicely served; and Henriette, who is waiting on them, none
the less attentive, although she is late for her own dinner, which she
will sit down to presently with madame the patronne, the good cook, and
the other girls who serve the small tables.
[Illustration: WHAT IS GOING ON AT THE THEATERS]
This later feast will be augmented perhaps by half the good boys and
girls who have been dining at the long table. Perhaps they will all come
in and help shell the peas for to-morrow's dinner. And yet this is a
public place, where the painters come, and where one pays only for what
one orders. It is all very interesting to the four American girls, who
are dining at the small table. "It is so thoroughly bohemian!" they
exclaim.
But what must Mimi think of these silent and exclusive strangers, and
what, too, must the tall girl in the bicycle bloomers think, and the
little girl who has been ill and who at the moment is dining with
Renould, the artist, and whom every one--even to the cook, is so glad to
welcome back after her long illness? There is an unsurmountable barrier
between the Americans at the little table in the corner and that jolly
crowd of good and kindly people at the long one, for Mimi and Henriette
and the little girl who has been so ill, and the French painters and
sculptors with them, cannot understand either the language of these
strangers or their views of life.
"Florence!" exclaims one of the strangers in a whisper, "do look at that
queer little 'type' at the long table--the tall girl in black actually
kissed him!"
"You don't mean it!"
"Yes, I do--just now. Why, my dear, I saw it plainly!"
Poor culprits! There is no law against kissing in the open air in Paris,
and besides, the tall girl in black has known the little "type" for a
Parisienne age--thirty days or less.
The four innocents, who have coughed through their soup and whispered
through the rest of the dinner, have now finished and are leaving, but
if those at the long table notice their departure, they do not show it.
In the Quarter it is considered the height of rudeness to stare. You
will find these Suzannes and Marcelles exceedingly well-bred in the
little refinements of life, and you will note a certain innate dignity
and kindliness in their bearing toward others, which often makes one
wish to uncover his head in their presence.