"THE RAGGED EDGE OF THE QUARTER"
There are many streets of the Quarter as quiet as those of a country
village. Some of them, like the rue Vaugirard, lead out past gloomy
slaughter-houses and stables, through desolate sections of vacant
lots, littered with the ruins of factory and foundry whose tall,
smoke-begrimed chimneys in the dark stand like giant sentries, as if
pointing a warning finger to the approaching pedestrian, for these
ragged edges of the Quarter often afford at night a lurking-ground for
footpads.
In just such desolation there lived a dozen students, in a small nest of
studios that I need not say were rented to them at a price within their
ever-scanty means. It was marveled at among the boys in the Quarter that
any of these exiles lived to see the light of another day, after
wandering back at all hours of the night to their stronghold.
Possibly their sole possessions consisted of the clothes they had on, a
few bad pictures, and their several immortal geniuses. That the
gentlemen with the sand-bags knew of this I am convinced, for the
students were never molested. Verily, Providence lends a strong and
ready arm to the drunken man and the fool!
The farther out one goes on the rue Vaugirard, the more desolate
and forbidding becomes this long highway, until it terminates at
the fortifications, near which is a huge, open field, kept clear
of such permanent buildings as might shelter an enemy in time of
war. Scattered over this space are the hovels of squatters and
gipsies--fortune-telling, horse-trading vagabonds, whose living-vans
at certain times of the year form part of the smaller fairs within
the Quarter.
[Illustration: (factory chimneys along empty street)]
And very small and unattractive little fairs they are, consisting of
half a dozen or more wagons, serving as a yearly abode for these
shiftless people; illumined at night by the glare of smoking oil
torches. There is, moreover, a dingy tent with a half-drawn red curtain
that hides the fortune-telling beauty; and a traveling shooting-gallery,
so short that the muzzle of one's rifle nearly rests upon the painted
lady with the sheet-iron breastbone, centered by a pinhead of a
bull's-eye which never rings. There is often a small carousel, too,
which is not only patronized by the children, but often by a crowd of
students--boys and girls, who literally turn the merry-go-round into a
circus, and who for the time are cheered to feats of bareback riding by
the enthusiastic bystanders.
These little Quarter fetes are far different from the great fete de
Neuilly across the Seine, which begins at the Porte Maillot, and
continues in a long, glittering avenue of side-shows, with mammoth
carousels, bizarre in looking-glass panels and golden figures. Within
the circle of all this throne-like gorgeousness, a horse-power organ
shakes the very ground with its clarion blasts, while pink and white
wooden pigs, their tails tied up in bows of colored ribbons, heave and
swoop round and round, their backs loaded with screaming girls and
shouting men.
It was near this very same Port Maillot, in a colossal theater, built
originally for the representation of one of the Kiralfy ballets, that a
fellow student and myself went over from the Quarter one night to "supe"
in a spectacular and melodramatic pantomime, entitled "Afrique a Paris."
We were invited by the sole proprietor and manager of the show--an
old circus-man, and one of the shrewdest, most companionable, and
intelligent of men, who had traveled the world over. He spoke no
language but his own unadulterated American. This, with his dominant
personality, served him wherever fortune carried him!
So, accepting his invitation to play alternately the dying soldier and
the pursuing cannibal under the scorching rays of a tropical limelight,
and with an old pair of trousers and a flannel shirt wrapped in a
newspaper, we presented ourselves at the appointed hour, at the edge of
the hostile country.
[Illustration: (street scene)]
Here we found ourselves surrounded by a horde of savages who needed no
greasepaint to stain their ebony bodies, and many of whose grinning
countenances I had often recognized along our own Tenderloin. Besides,
there were cowboys and "greasers" and diving elks, and a company of
French Zouaves; the latter, in fact, seemed to be the only thing foreign
about the show. Our friend, the manager, informed us that he had thrown
the entire spectacle together in about ten days, and that he had
gathered with ease, in two, a hundred of those dusky warriors, who had
left their coat-room and barber-shop jobs in New York to find themselves
stranded in Paris.
He was a hustler, this circus-man, and preceding the spectacle of the
African war, he had entertained the audience with a short variety-show,
to brace the spectacle. He insisted on bringing us around in front and
giving us a box, so we could see for ourselves how good it really was.
During this forepart, and after some clever high trapeze work,
the sensation of the evening was announced--a Signore, with an
unpronounceable name, would train a den of ten forest-bred lions!
When the orchestra had finished playing "The Awakening of the Lion," the
curtain rose, disclosing the nerveless Signore in purple tights and
high-topped boots. A long, portable cage had been put together on the
stage during the intermission, and within it the ten pacing beasts.
There is something terrifying about the roar of a lion as it begins with
its high-keyed moan, and descends in scale to a hoarse roar that seems
to penetrate one's whole nervous system.
But the Signore did not seem to mind it; he placed one foot on the sill
of the safety-door, tucked his short riding-whip under his arm, pulled
the latch with one hand, forced one knee in the slightly opened door,
and sprang into the cage. Click! went the iron door as it found its
lock. Bang! went the Signore's revolver, as he drove the snarling,
roaring lot into the corner of the cage. The smoke from his revolver
drifted out through the bars; the house was silent. The trainer walked
slowly up to the fiercest lion, who reared against the bars as he
approached him, striking at the trainer with his heavy paws, while the
others slunk into the opposite corner. The man's head was but half a
foot now from the lion's; he menaced the beast with the little
riding-whip; he almost, but did not quite strike him on the tip of his
black nose that worked convulsively in rage. Then the lion dropped
awkwardly, with a short growl, to his forelegs, and slunk, with the
rest, into the corner. The Signore turned and bowed. It was the little
riding-whip they feared, for they had never gauged its sting. Not the
heavy iron bar within reach of his hand, whose force they knew. The vast
audience breathed easier.
"An ugly lot," I said, turning to our friend the manager, who had taken
his seat beside me.
"Yes," he mused, peering at the stage with his keen gray eyes; "green
stock, but a swell act, eh? Wait for the grand finale. I've got a
girl here who comes on and does art poses among the lions; she's a
dream--French, too!"
A girl of perhaps twenty, enveloped in a bath gown, now appeared at the
wings. The next instant the huge theater became dark, and she stood in
full fleshings, in the center of the cage, brilliant in the rays of a
powerful limelight, while the lions circled about her at the command of
the trainer.
"Ain't she a peach?" said the manager, enthusiastically.
"Yes," said I, "she is. Has she been in the cages long?" I asked.
[Illustration: (portrait of woman)]
"No, she never worked with the cats before," he said; "she's new to the
show business; she said her folks live in Nantes. She worked here in a
chocolate factory until she saw my 'ad' last week and joined my show. We
gave her a rehearsal Monday and we put her on the bill next night. She's
a good looker with plenty of grit, and is a winner with the bunch in
front."
"How did you get her to take the job?" I said.
"Well," he replied, "she balked at the act at first, but I showed her
two violet notes from a couple of swell fairies who wanted the job, and
after that she signed for six weeks."
"Who wrote the notes?" I said, queryingly.
"I wrote 'em!" he exclaimed dryly, and he bit the corner of his stubby
mustache and smiled. "This is the last act in the olio, so you will have
to excuse me. So long!" and he disappeared in the gloom.
* * * * *
There are streets and boulevards in the Quarter, sections of which are
alive with the passing throng and the traffic of carts and omnibuses.
Then one will come to a long stretch of massive buildings, public
institutions, silent as convents--their interminable walls flanking
garden or court.
The Boulevard St. Germain is just such a highway until it crosses the
Boulevard St. Michel--the liveliest roadway of the Quarter. Then it
seems to become suddenly inoculated with its bustle and life, and from
there on is crowded with bourgeoise and animated with the commerce of
market and shop.
An Englishman once was so fired with a desire to see the gay life of the
Latin Quarter that he rented a suite of rooms on this same Boulevard St.
Germain at about the middle of this long, quiet stretch. Here he stayed
a fortnight, expecting daily to see from his "chambers" the gaiety of a
Bohemia of which he had so often heard. At the end of his disappointing
sojourn, he returned to London, firmly convinced that the gay life of
the Latin Quarter was a myth. It was to him.
[Illustration: (crowded street market)]
But the man from Denver, the "Steel King," and the two thinner
gentlemen with the louis-lined waistcoats who accompanied him and whom
Fortune had awakened in the far West one morning and had led them to
"The Great Red Star copper mine"--a find which had ever since been a
source of endless amusement to them--discovered the Quarter before they
had been in Paris a day, and found it, too, "the best ever," as they
expressed it.
They did not remain long in Paris, this rare crowd of seasoned genials,
for it was their first trip abroad and they had to see Switzerland and
Vienna, and the Rhine; but while they stayed they had a good time Every
Minute.
The man from Denver and the Steel King sat at one of the small tables,
leaning over the railing at the "Bal Bullier," gazing at the sea of
dancers.
"Billy," said the man from Denver to the Steel King, "if they had this
in Chicago they'd tear out the posts inside of fifteen minutes"--he
wiped the perspiration from his broad forehead and pushed his
twenty-dollar Panama on the back of his head.
"Ain't it a sight!" he mused, clinching the butt of his perfecto between
his teeth. "Say!--say! it beats all I ever see," and he chuckled to
himself, his round, genial face, with its double chin, wreathed in
smiles.
"Say, George!" he called to one of the 'copper twins,' "did you get on
to that little one in black that just went by--well! well!! well!!! In a
minute!!"
Already the pile of saucers on their table reached a foot high--a record
of refreshments for every Yvonne and Marcelle that had stopped in
passing. Two girls approach.
"Certainly, sit right down," cried the Steel King. "Here, Jack,"--this
to the aged garcon, "smoke up! and ask the ladies what they'll
have"--all of which was unintelligible to the two little Parisiennes and
the garcon, but quite clear in meaning to all three.
"Dis donc, garcon!" interrupted the taller of the two girls, "un cafe
glace pour moi."
"Et moi," answered her companion gayly, "Je prends une limonade!"
"Here! Hold on!" thundered good-humoredly the man from Denver; "git 'em
a good drink. Rye, garsong! yes, that's it--whiskey--I see you're on,
and two. Deux!" he explains, holding up two fat fingers, "all straight,
friend--two whiskeys with seltzer on the side--see? Now go roll your
hoop and git back with 'em."
"Oh, non, monsieur!" cried the two Parisiennes in one breath; "whiskey!
jamais! ca pique et c'est trop fort."
At this juncture the flower woman arrived with a basketful of red roses.
"Voulez-vous des fleurs, messieurs et mesdames?" she asked politely.
"Certainly," cried the Steel King; "here, Maud and Mamie, take the lot,"
and he handed the two girls the entire contents of the basket. The
taller buried her face for a moment in the red Jaqueminots and drank in
their fragrance. When she looked up, two big tears trickled down to the
corners of her pretty mouth. In a moment more she was smiling! The
smaller girl gave a little cry of delight and shook her roses above her
head as three other girls passed. Ten minutes later the two possessed
but a single rose apiece--they had generously given all the rest away.
[Illustration: (portrait of woman)]
The "copper twins" had been oblivious of all this. They had been hanging
over the low balustrade, engaged in a heart-to-heart talk with two
pretty Quartier brunettes. It seemed to be really a case of love at
first sight, carried on somewhat under difficulties, for the "copper
twins" could not speak a word of French, and the English of the two chic
brunettes was limited to "Oh, yes!" "Vary well!" "Good morning," "Good
evening," and "I love you." The four held hands over the low railing,
until the "copper twins" fairly steamed in talk; warmed by the sun of
gaiety and wet by several rounds of Highland dew, they grew sad and
earnest, and got up and stepped all over the Steel King and the man from
Denver, and the two Parisiennes' daintily slippered feet, in squeezing
out past the group of round tables back of the balustrade, and down on
to the polished floor--where they are speedily lost to view in the maze
of dancers, gliding into the whirl with the two brunettes. When the
waltz is over they stroll out with them into the garden, and order wine,
and talk of changing their steamer date.
The good American, with his spotless collar and his well-cut clothes,
with his frankness and whole-souled generosity, is a study to the modern
grisette. He seems strangely attractive to her, in contrast with a
certain type of Frenchman, that is selfish, unfaithful, and mean--that
jealousy makes uncompanionable and sometimes cruel. She will tell you
that these pale, black-eyed, and black-bearded boulevardiers are all
alike--lazy and selfish; so unlike many of the sterling, good fellows of
the Quarter--Frenchmen of a different stamp, and there are many of
these--rare, good Bohemians, with hearts and natures as big as all
out-doors--"bons garcons," which is only another way of saying
"gentlemen."
As you tramp along back to your quarters some rainy night you find many
of the streets leading from the boulevards silent and badly lighted,
except for some flickering lantern on the corner of a long block which
sends the shadows scurrying across your path. You pass a student perhaps
and a girl, hurrying home--a fiacre for a short distance is a luxury in
the Quarter. Now you hear the click-clock of an approaching cab, the
cocher half asleep on his box. The hood of the fiacre is up, sheltering
the two inside from the rain. As the voiture rumbles by near a
street-light, you catch a glimpse of a pink silk petticoat within and a
pair of dainty, white kid shoes--and the glint of an officer's sword.
Farther on, you pass a silent gendarme muffled in his night cloak; a few
doors farther on in a small cafe, a bourgeois couple, who have arrived
on a late train no doubt to spend a month with relatives in Paris, are
having a warming tipple before proceeding farther in the drizzling rain.
They have, of course, invited the cocher to drink with them. They have
brought all their pets and nearly all their household goods--two dogs,
three bird-cages, their tiny occupants protected from the damp air by
several folds of newspaper; a cat in a stout paper box with air holes,
and two trunks, well tied with rope.
[Illustration: (street market)]
"Ah, yes, it has been a long journey!" sighs the wife. Her husband
corroborates her, as they explain to the patronne of the cafe and to the
cocher that they left their village at midday. Anything over two hours
on the chemin-de-fer is considered a journey by these good French
people!
As you continue on to your studio, you catch a glimpse of the lights of
the Boulevard Montparnasse. Next a cab with a green light rattles by;
then a ponderous two-wheeled cart lumbers along, piled high with red
carrots as neatly arranged as cigars in a box--the driver asleep on his
seat near his swinging lantern--and the big Normandy horses taking the
way. It is late, for these carts are on their route to the early morning
market--one of the great Halles. The tired waiters are putting up the
shutters of the smaller cafes and stacking up the chairs. Now a cock
crows lustily in some neighboring yard; the majority at least of the
Latin Quarter has turned in for the night. A moment later you reach your
gate, feel instinctively for your matches. In the darkness of the court
a friendly cat rubs her head contentedly against your leg. It is the
yellow one that sleeps in the furniture factory, and you pick her up and
carry her to your studio, where, a moment later, she is crunching
gratefully the remnant of the beau maquereau left from your
dejeuner--for charity begins at home.