is first seen, suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of
the fertile and richly-wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament
than a massy bridge, and shows little of the strength and solidity which
it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still
retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and
immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig,
with every stick standing, had just passed under it,—that a coach going
over appeared not larger than a child’s toy, and that foot-passengers
upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by
contrast fully apparent.” The whole surface of the bridge is in length
1000 feet, of which the part immediately dependent upon the chains is 590
feet, the remaining distance being supported by seven arches, four on one
side and three on the other, which fill up the distance from the main
piers to the shore. These main piers rise above the level of the road 50
feet, and through them two archways, each 12 feet wide, admit a passage.
Over the top of these piers, four rows of chains, the extremities of
which are firmly secured in the rocks at each end of the bridge, are
thrown; two of them nearly in the centre, about four feet apart, and one
at each side. The floor of the road is formed of logs of wood, well
covered with pitch, and then strewn over with granite broken very small,
forming, by its adhesion to the pitch, a solid body, impervious to the
wet. A light lattice work of wrought iron to the height of about six
feet, prevents the possibility of accidents by falling over, and allows a
clear view of the scenery on both sides, which can be seen to great
advantage from this height. Having expressed our admiration of the skill
evident in the construction, at once so simple and so useful, and having
satisfied our curiosity on the top, we descended by a precipitous path to
the level of the water, and gazed upwards with wonder, at the immense
flat surface above us, and its connecting gigantic arches. The road is
100 feet above high water, and the arches spring at the height of 60 feet
from abutments of solid masonry, with a span of 52 feet. These abutments
taper gradually from their base to where the arch commences, and immense
masses as they are, show no appearance of heaviness; indeed, taking the
whole of the Menai Bridge together, a more perfect union of beauty with
utility cannot be conceived. It has been erected to bear a weight upon
the chains of 2000 tons; the whole weight at present imposed is only 500,
leaving an available strength of 1,500 tons; so that there is an easy
remedy for a complaint which has been made of its too great vibration in
a gale of wind, by laying additional weight upon it. The granite, of
which the piers and arches are built, is a species of marble, admitting a
very high polish; of this the peasantry in the neighbourhood avail
themselves, and every one has some specimen of polished marble ready to
offer the tourist. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and elegance,
in this grand work of art, that it harmonises and accords perfectly with
the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of admiration,
still, in connection, it heightens the effect of the general view.
MONA, OR ANGLESEA, {206}
which forms one of the six counties of North Wales, was to that
principality what the island of Sicily was to Italy, its granary, and
chief dependence for subsistence; it was likewise the favourite spot, and
the last asylum of the Druids in Britain; it was to their venerable and
sacred groves, in this their last sanctuary, that they fled from Roman
tyranny; and it was here, around their altars, defenceless and
undefended, save by firebrands snatched from beneath the sacrifice, that
these venerable bigots fell, on the score of their religion, under the
murderous swords of Pagans, who, their means of attaining knowledge being
considered, were more ignorant than themselves. Neither have we a right,
on the bare testimony of these their bloody tyrannical persecutors, to
believe them to have been guilty of the horrid rites and human sacrifices
of which they are accused. In what portion of history do we find the
state, the hero, or the conqueror, wanting a good and sufficient reason
to cover the plea for conquest or aggression; and, above all, do we ever
find the Romans, throughout their history, wanting in such plea to cover
the basest of their actions? It was the religious stimulus by which the
Druids urged the Britons, even the females, to deeds of heroic madness,
to which the Romans owed the dear purchase in life and blood of their
British conquest; and which, whilst that stimulus existed, they were but
too well aware, must ever be insecure: no wonder then, that to cover the
inhumanity of a cold-blooded warfare of extermination against a
priesthood, that controlled and guided the energies of a daring people,
they should represent them in their bloody orgies as immolating human
victims: nay, most probably, even the accusation was founded in truth,
but grossly and wilfully misrepresented; for the ministers of religion
being, most probably, the administrators of justice, and sole keepers of
traditionary laws, the sacrifice of guilty culprits to such laws, to make
a deeper impression on the minds of hardy but superstitious barbarians,
was made a religious act. When we reflect on the late horrible
sacrifices that have been made in this country in the nineteenth century,
to its offended laws, and on those disgusting, though less dreadful
exhibitions, which are made so frequently, in a leading street of the
metropolis of Britain, that they, from their business-like, unceremonious
mode of execution, no longer deter from similar offences: and when we see
the culprits come forth attended by ministers of religion, who may appear
to uninformed by-standers to superintend the ceremony, as to the lot of
one of them it falls to give the fatal signal; we should reflect how such
a spectacle may be misrepresented by an Indian, a Chinese, or an
Esquimaux, and then judge with due candour of the religious rites and
actions of the Druids.
Anglesea can no longer, with propriety, as it did of old, bear the title
of Ynys Dowyll, or the Shady Island; for those sacred groves, those
venerable oaks, which fell not under the harsh mandates of its Roman,
Saxon, or English invaders, have yielded to the hand of time, or the
avarice of man; and the late appearance of the island was unsheltered and
exposed, almost with the exception of the respected hallowed shades of
Plas-Newydd and Baron Hill; but numerous and thriving plantations are now
springing up, doing away with that sterile appearance; and the better and
more speedily to accomplish this desirable end, public nursery grounds
have been established in the centre of the island, to afford facilities
for, and to encourage, planting. It has had the desired effect; and by
an improvement in smelting the ore, and extracting the sulphur from it,
vegetation is no longer injured, even where there is any soil on the
Parys Mountain.
It was formerly divided into seven districts, or comots, but at present
its divisions are only six. It contains about two hundred thousand acres
of land; is in length, from north-west to south-east, about twenty miles;
in breadth, from north-east to south-west, about sixteen miles; and in
circumference about seventy-six miles: has seventy-four parishes, and
four market-towns, and is in the diocese of Bangor. The number of houses
are estimated at 7183; the inhabitants at 37,045. It sends two members
to parliament, one for the county and one for Beaumaris.
From its too great deficiency of wood, and live fences, the sterility of
the Parys Mountain and its vicinity, and the rocky appearance of the
soil, there was formerly no semblance of that exuberant fertility that
would allow this small partially cultivated island to export to the
extent it does, both in live stock and grain, viz. about 15,000 head of
black cattle, about 5000 hogs, great numbers of sheep, and nearly 4000
quarters of corn, besides numerous other articles of produce and
manufacture. Its climate is more mild than that of Wales generally, but
it is at the same time subject to fogs and damp; the advantage and
disadvantage both attributable to the sea breezes. It is well watered by
numerous rivulets, and has abundance of harbours: among the first is that
well known and highly useful one of Holyhead, which has of late been
greatly improved: that of Beaumaris is likewise good, and capable of
carrying on considerable trade. Besides these, there are the minor ones
of Red Wharf Bay, Dulas Bay, Amlwch, from which the copper ore, &c.
obtained from Parys Mountain is shipped, and which might be greatly
improved, Cemlyn, Aberfraw, &c.: most, or all of them, might, at a small
expense, be rendered still more safe and useful. Besides its exports in
corn and cattle, this small island carries on great trade in copper,
ochre, sulphur, mill-stones, lead, &c. &c. It likewise produces various
specimens of marble (well known in London as Mona marbles,) and amongst
others the asbestos: it yields potter’s clay and fullers’ earth, as well
as coals, which are now worked in the neighbourhood of Llangefni.
Neither is the sea less bountiful than the land, affording a bill of fare
that would not disgrace the table of a London alderman.
On account of the great thoroughfare which this island has become since
the Union, from the exertions made by government to afford safety and
facility in the forwarding the principal Irish mails and despatches, the
roads are kept in excellent order.
BEAUMARIS,
the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly situated on
the western shore of the bay of that name, and commands a fine view of
the sea and the Caernarvonshire mountains. Its original name was Porth
Wygyr. Its harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for
coasters and ships of considerable burthen, which, during northerly
winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the dangers of a lee
shore. As no manufactures of consequence are carried on in its
neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for great retirement than for
active bustle; but being the county town it is now and then enlivened by
the gaieties attendant upon assizes, elections, and other public
meetings.
The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate of Richard
Bulkeley Williams Bulkeley, Esq. close to the town, and covers a
considerable space of ground; but from its low situation it was always
inferior in point of strength to the castles of Conway and Caernarvon.
Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of R. B. Williams Bulkeley,
Esq. delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly wooded bank, and
possessing a complete command of every object which can add to the charms
of picturesque scenery. The park extends to, and nearly surrounds, the
west and north sides of the town; whilst the rising ground, upon which
the mansion stands, shelters the town from the rude blasts that would
otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection from the raging
elements which the last noble owner ever afforded to its inhabitants,
when sorrow and adversities assailed their domestic peace. To enumerate
all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s munificence and kindness would be
impossible, but a few of them may be seen in the neighbourhood of
Beaumaris.
The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore of the Menai
to the suspension bridge, was made at the expense of Lord and Lady
Bulkeley, in 1804: it cost about 3000_l._ and, when completed, was
presented to the public, and kept in repair by the owner of Baron Hill
until 1827, when an act of parliament was obtained, making it a public
road, and commissioners appointed, who have erected a turnpike-gate
thereon, and under whose inspection and influence it has been
considerably improved in width, and the precipices reduced. A road
possessed of greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain.
The church was kept in repair by the late Lord Bulkeley, to which he
presented a new organ, a set of elegant communion plate, a clock, and a
peal of six fine toned bells; together costing about 1200_l._ He also
gave a good house to the rector for the time being. The national school,
as well as the master’s house, was built by public subscription, on land
given by the late Lord Bulkeley, and the master’s and mistress’s salaries
were paid by him and his lady.
Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but these are
sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends and kind neighbours.
Their numerous deeds of private charity ought not to be blazoned to the
world, but they will live long in the grateful remembrance of those
around them.
Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 houses, and
1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of 2,205. It is governed by
a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgesses, and
several inferior officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but
has declined since the rise of Liverpool.
From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to Amlwch; the
distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant country, in parts
greatly resembling England. About a mile from Red Wharf Bay you pass the
village of Pentraeth, _The End of the Sands_. The situation is pleasant;
and Mr. Grose was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small
church, as to give a view of it in his Antiquities.
Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynne, the seat of the Panton family, are
two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark the bounds of an
astonishing leap, which obtained for the active performer of it the wife
of his choice; but it appears, that as he leaped into her affections with
difficulty, he ran away from them with ease; for going to a distant part
of the country, where he had occasion to reside several years, he found,
on his return, that his wife had, on that very morning, been married to
another person. Eenion, on hearing this, took his harp, and, sitting
down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, and where he had
been resident. His wife narrowly scrutinized his person, unwilling to
give up her new spouse, when he exclaimed:
Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair,
Which once shone bright of golden lively hue:
Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair
Will soon decay, though gold continue new.
If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair!
The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse,
All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair),
Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house.
I once have leap’d to show my active power,
A leap which none could equal or exceed,
The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower!
Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed.
Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known,
And many witnesses can still attest;
How there the prize I won, thyself must own:
This action stamp’d my worth within thy breast.
BINGLEY’S NORTH WALES.
At Llanfair, which is about a mile distant from this road, was born the
celebrated scholar and poet, Goronwy Owen, who, notwithstanding his
acknowledged and admired abilities, was, after a series of hardships and
struggles, obliged to expatriate himself to the wilds of Virginia, where
he was appointed pastor of the church. He was well versed in the Latin,
Greek, and oriental languages, was a skilful antiquary and an excellent
poet. His Latin odes are greatly admired; but his Welsh poems rank him
among the most distinguished bards of his country.
About five miles west of Beaumaris is Peny-mynydd, the birth-place of
Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having married Catherine of France,
the Dowager of our Henry V. in 1428, became the ancestor of a line of
monarchs. They had three sons and one daughter. The daughter died in
her infancy: Edmund was created Earl of Richmond, and marrying a daughter
of the Duke of Somerset, had Henry, afterwards Henry VII. Jasper was
created Earl of Pembroke; and Owen became a monk. By means of his
marriage, therefore, Owen Tudor not only became father to a line of
kings, but in his son, as Gray says, Wales came to be governed again by
their own princes.
The Tudor family became extinct in Richmond Tudor, who died in 1657, and
the estate belongs to R. B. Williams Bulkeley, Esq. In the church is one
of their monuments, removed from Lanvaes Abbey at its dissolution.
LLANELIAN
is about two miles east of Amlwch, near the coast: Mr. Bingley’s account
of which, and the superstitious ceremonies still attaching to it, is both
curious and entertaining:
“The church is by no means an inelegant structure; and adjoining to
it is a small chapel of very ancient foundation, that measures in its
interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, _the confessional_. A
curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal form, called _St. Elian’s
closet_, is yet left in the east wall; and is supposed to have served
both the office of communion table, and as a chest to contain the
vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. There is a
hole in the wall of the chapel, through which the priests are
supposed to have received confessions: the people believe this hole
to have been used in returning oracular answers to persons who made
inquiries of the saint respecting future events. Near the door is
placed Cyff Elian, _Elian’s chest_, or poor-box. People out of
health, even to this day, send their offering to the saint, which
they put through a hole into the box. A silver groat, though not a
very common coin, is said to be a present peculiarly acceptable, and
has been known to procure his intercession, when all other kinds of
coin have failed! The sum thus deposited, which in the course of a
year frequently amounts to several pounds, the churchwardens annually
divide among the poor of the parish.
“The wakes of Llanelian were formerly held on the three first Friday
evenings in August; but they are now confined to only one of those
days. Young persons from all parts of the adjacent country, and even
from distant counties, assemble here; most of whom have along with
them some offering for the saint, to ensure their future prosperity,
palliate their offences, and secure blessings on their families,
their cattle, and corn.
“The misguided devotees assemble about the chapel, and having
deposited their offerings, many of them proceed to search into their
future destiny in a very singular manner, by means of the wooden
closet. Persons of both sexes, of all ages and sizes, enter the
small door-way, and if they can succeed in turning themselves round
within the narrow limits of the place, (which measures only betwixt
three and four feet in height, about four feet across the back, and
eighteen inches in width,) they believe that they shall be fortunate
till at least the ensuing wake; but if they do not succeed in this
difficult undertaking, they esteem it an omen of ill fortune, or of
their death within the year. I have been told, that it is curious
enough to see a stout lusty fellow, weighing perhaps sixteen or
eighteen stone, striving to creep into these narrow confines, with as
much confidence of success as a stripling a yard high; and when he
fails in the attempt, to see him fuming and fretting, because his
body, which contains in solid bulk more than the place could hold,
were it crammed into all corners, cannot be got in. But when we
consider that superstition and enthusiasm have generally little to do
with reason, we must not wonder at this addition to the heap of
incongruities that all ages have afforded us.
“Llanelian was formerly a sanctuary, or place of refuge for
criminals. In digging a grave in the churchyard, about sixteen years
ago, a deep trench was discovered, which extended about twenty yards
in a transverse direction across. It was found to contain a great
quantity of human bones; and is supposed to have been the place of
interment of a number of sailors, who perished in a storm that drove
them upon this coast.”
AMLWCH,
or _the Winding Loch_, is a dirty-looking straggling town, founded on
rocks. It owes its support chiefly to the copper works in its vicinity.
The church is a neat modern structure, dedicated to Elaeth, a British
saint: the port, which is but small, is notwithstanding excellently
adapted for the trade which is carried on; it is narrow, capable of only
containing two vessels abreast, of about 200 tons burthen each, and of
these it will furnish room for about thirty; the entrance is by a chasm
between two rocks.
The Parys Mountain, like the works at Merthyr, shews what the industry of
man is capable of accomplishing in removing rocks, mountains, and
dragging forth the bowels of the earth. To those who possess good
nerves, the view of this scene of wealth and industry will afford
gratification unalloyed; but to those not so blessed, the horrific
situations in which the principal actors of the scene are placed, poised
in air, exposed to the blasting of the rocks, and the falling of
materials, which themselves are sending aloft, or from those which may be
misdirected, as ascending from the workings of others, by striking
against projecting crags, seem to threaten death in so many varied
shapes, that the wonder and admiration excited by the place are lost in
pity and anxiety for the hardy miners.
From the top of the mountain the dreadful yawning chasm, with the
numerous stages erected over the edge of the precipice, appal rather than
gratify the observer. To see the mine to advantage, you must descend to
the bottom, and be provided with a guide, to enable you to shun the
danger, that would be considerable, from the blasts and falling
materials; the workmen generally not being able to see those that their
operations may endanger.
The Mona mine is the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea. The
Parys mine is shared.
The mountain has been worked with varied success for about sixty-five
years: it is now believed to be under the average; but whether that
arises from the low price of the article, or the mine being exhausted, I
am unable to say: for a considerable period it produced 20,000 tons
annually. One bed of ore was upwards of sixty feet in thickness. In the
blasting the rock, to procure the ore, from six to eight tons of
gunpowder are yearly consumed.
“This celebrated mountain,” says Mr. Evans, “is easily distinguished from
the rest; for it is perfectly barren from the summit to the plain below:
not a single shrub, and hardly a blade of grass, being able to live in
its sulphurous atmosphere.
“No grassy mantle hides the sable hills,
No flowery chaplet crowns the trickling rills;
Nor tufted moss, nor leathery lichen creeps
In russet tapestry, o’er the crumbling steeps.”
DARWIN.
[Picture: Map of North Wales]
From hence we proceeded to
HOLYHEAD,
called in Welsh _Caergybi_, situated on an island at the western
extremity of Anglesea. It has lately changed its aspect from a poor
fishing village to a decent looking town, in consequence of its being the
chief resort for passengers to and from Dublin. The distance across the
channel is about fifty-five miles; and there are four steam packets which
daily cross the channel, with the mail and government despatches.
Each vessel has two cabins, beautifully fitted up, light and airy; and
every thing appears to have been attended to, that can either add to the
comfort or safety of the passengers: expense has not been spared for that
which was useful, and conducive to safety; and the equipment having been
superintended by the late Captain Rogers, an experienced officer, on the
Holyhead station, nothing has been misapplied. The passage is effected
in from five and a half to seven hours, a distance of fifty-five miles;
and the letters are delivered in Dublin from London in the short space of
forty hours.
In short, the attention which government has evinced to facilitate the
communication between the two kingdoms merits every praise. Neither
exertion nor expense have been spared in improving the roads from
Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which improvements have been executed under the
direction of Mr. Telford, who is now commencing on that from Chester to
the above place; and now the suspension bridge over Conway Ferry (for
which parliament voted 40,000_l._) is completed, in addition to that over
the Menai at Bangor Ferry, but few persons will run the risk of a
dilatory and dangerous passage by Liverpool, when they may have a certain
and a safe one by Holyhead, with excellent roads and accommodation; and
without the trouble of the ferries, which were formerly an inconvenience
to persons taking this route.
Near the centre of the town, on a rock close above the sea, is a church,
on the site where _St. Cybi_, in A.D. 380, founded a small monastery,
which, in 580, was converted into a college by _Maelgwyn Gwynedd_, or,
according to some, by _Hwfa ap Cynddelw_, Lord of Llifon, one of the
fifteen tribes of North Wales. James I. granted this college to Francis
Morris and Francis Phillips, which afterwards became the property of Rice
Gwyn, Esq. who bestowed the great tithes on Jesus College, Oxford, for
the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars: from that time the
parish has been served by a curate nominated by the college. This church
is a handsome embattled edifice, built in the form of a cross, with this
inscription, on a pediment of the north transept: “_Sancte Kyb. ora pro
nobis_.” The walls of the churchyard are seventeen feet high, six feet
thick, and form a quadrangle; three sides of which are evidently Roman,
although ascribed to _Caswellon Llawhir_, a chieftain of Anglesea, in the
fifth century: the east side is a modern low wall on the verge of the
cliffs.
A fine extensive pier is now completed, on an island called _Ynys-halen_,
which forms the north side of the harbour; at the extremity of which is a
fine light-house, exhibiting a brilliant light by oil gas. This grand
national undertaking has already afforded an asylum to the trade of the
Channel: no less than sixty or eighty vessels have entered the harbour in
one day, and many more have sailed out in one tide. Before the erection
of the pier, which commenced in 1809, many valuable vessels, seeking for
shelter in stormy weather, were lost with their crews on the southern
shores of the harbour. From this port are sent upwards of 40,000 bushels
of excellent grain every year. It contains 4071 inhabitants.