sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt throughout the kingdom from
tollage, lastage, passage, murage, pontage, and all other impositions of
whatever kind, with other privileges, too numerous to insert.
The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was erected in the
year 1794. The new market-house, containing the butchers’ shambles, &c.
is a well-contrived and convenient building, affording good storage for
corn and other articles left unsold.
The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a mile
south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention of the
traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this part of Cambria,
on which a long chain of minor forts and posts were dependent. It is
even maintained, and that by respectable authorities, that it was not
only the residence but burial-place of Constantius, father of Constantine
the Great; but most probably this arises from confusing Helena, the
daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, who was born at Segontium, and
married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with Helena, his mother,
whom these authorities assert to have been the daughter of a British
king. A chapel, said to have been founded by Helen, and a well which
bears her name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out.
Since the numerous late improvements have been going forward at and near
Caernarvon, new and interesting lights have been thrown on the ruins in
its vicinity, which will form a rich treat to the antiquary.
Near the banks of the Seint, from which Segontium took its name, and
which runs from the lower lake of Llanberris, are the remains of a fort,
which appears to have been calculated to cover a landing-place from the
river at the time of high water: it is of an oblong shape, and includes
an area of about an acre; one of the walls which is now standing is about
seventy-four yards, and the other sixty-four yards long, in height from
ten to twelve feet, and nearly six feet in thickness. The peculiar plan
of the Roman masonry is here particularly discernible, exhibiting
alternate layers, the one regular, the other zig-zag; on these their
fluid mortar was poured, which insinuated itself into all the
interstices, and set so strong as to form the whole into one solid mass;
retaining its texture even to the present day, to such a degree, that the
bricks and stone in the Roman walls yield as easy as the cement.
English history has spoken so fully on this place, as connected with
Edward the First, on the title, which he, from his son being born in this
castle, so artfully claimed for him, and the future heirs apparent to the
British throne, as affording to the Welsh a prince of their own,
agreeable to their wishes, and the quiet annexation of the principality
to his dominions, which Edward by this means obtained, that it appears
superfluous to enlarge upon it in this work.
Several excursions may be made from Caernarvon, with great satisfaction
to the tourist; the principal of which is a visit to
PLAS-NEWYDD,
the elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, situated in the Isle of
Anglesea, and distant about six miles from Caernarvon. If the wind and
tide prove favourable, the picturesque scenery of the Menai will be
viewed to great advantage by hiring a boat at the quay. {191} But if
this most advisable plan should not be approved of, the walk to the
Moel-y-don ferry, about five miles on the Bangor road, will prove highly
gratifying. The Menai, whose banks are studded with gentlemen’s seats,
appearing scarcely visible between the rich foliage of the oak, which
luxuriates to the water’s brink, is filled with vessels, whose shining
sails, fluttering in the wind, attract and delight the observing eye;
whilst the voice of the sailors, exchanging some salute with the passing
vessel, is gently wafted on the breeze.
Crossing the ferry, we soon reached the ancient residence of the
arch-druid of Britain, where was formerly stationed the most celebrated
of the ancient British academies: from this circumstance many places in
this island still retain their original appellation, as Myfyrim, the
place of studies: Caer Idris, the city of astronomy; Cerrig Boudin, the
astronomer’s circle. The shore to the right soon brought us to the
plantations of Plâs-Newydd, consisting chiefly of the most venerable
oaks, and noblest ash in this part of the country:
—“Superior to the pow’r
Of all the warring winds of heaven they rise;
And from the stormy promontory tower,
And toss their giant arms amid the skies;
While each assailing blast increasing strength supplies.”
BEATTIE’S MINSTREL.
Beneath their “broad brown branches” we discovered several cromlechs, the
monuments of Druidical superstition; several stones of enormous size
support two others placed horizontally over them. {192} For what purpose
these ancient relics were originally erected, it is not for us puisne
antiquarians to discuss; and with eager impatience we hurried to visit
the noble mansion, which has not yet received the finishing stroke of the
architect; sufficient, however, is accomplished to form a conjecture of
its intended splendour and magnificence. The whole is built, stables
included, in a Gothic castellated form, of a dark slate-coloured stone:
on entering the vestibule, we, for a short time, imagined ourselves in
the chapel, a mistake, though soon discovered, to which every visitor is
liable; the ceiling having Gothic arches, with a gallery suitable to it,
and several niches cut in the side walls: we were next conducted through
a long suite of apartments, the design of them all equally convenient and
elegant. The landscape from the Gothic windows is both beautiful and
sublime: a noble plantation of trees, the growth of ages; the winding
strait of the Menai, gay with vessels passing and repassing: and, beyond
this tranquil scene, the long range of the Snowdon mountains shooting
into the clouds, the various hues of whose features appear as beautiful
as their magnitude is sublime. The house is protected from the
encroachments of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall; in fine,
this magnificent seat of the gallant Marquis seems to possess many
conveniences peculiar to its situation: the warm and cold baths,
constantly filled by the Menai, are sequestered and commodious, and every
part of the house is abundantly supplied with water.
Since the last edition of this work was published, this splendid
residence has been finished in a style corresponding to the promises it
held forth, and now ranks amongst the first in the principality.
The park, though small, is well wooded, and laid out with taste; and the
woods extending along the bold cliffs of the Menai, with the parapeted
bastion wall, which supports the terrace at the bottom of the lawn, cause
this elegant edifice, with its turrets and gilded vanes, surrounded by
its venerable groves, to be viewed to great advantage from the water or
opposite shore. The front is composed of a centre nearly semilunar, with
two wings semioctagonal; these receive a bold and happy finish from
octagonal turrets rising from the basement of each angle of the front and
wings, several feet above the embattled parapet, finishing in small
spires surmounted by gilt vanes.
Behind the house are two of the largest cromlechs; the upper stone of one
is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported
by five upright ones; the other is close to the first, and is only about
five feet and a half square.
Not far from these is a carnedd, part of which is destroyed; within was
found a cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered with two flat
stones. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, for what
purpose intended I leave to others to determine; some conceive they were
places of confinement, and these holes served as stocks, in which to
secure the victims of the Druidical sacrifices; but let us rather hope
not; for as the learned of those days here for a period found a shelter,
and as these woods
“Were tenanted by bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowery vests of innocent white,
Issued with harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains:”
MASON’S CARACTACUS.
we may as reasonably conceive that learning, poetry, music, and religion,
would soothe and soften the angry passions of the soul, as that they
would rouse to the horrid immolation of human sacrifices.
Being unavoidably prevented at this time from visiting the celebrated
Parys Mountain, the property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Colonel
Hughes, we again returned to the hotel at Caernarvon; purposing to stay
the following day (Sunday), with the intention of making a strict enquiry
into the religious sect, settled here, and in many parts of Wales, called
Jumpers. {195}
The account we had received from our landlord, we imagined, was
exaggerated; and this more strongly induced us to visit the chapel, that
we might be enabled, in future, to contradict this ridiculous report.
At six in the evening the congregation assembled; and, on our entrance
into the chapel, we observed, on the north side, from a sort of stage or
pulpit, erected on the occasion, a man, in appearance a common
day-labourer, holding forth to an ignorant and deluded multitude. Our
entrance at first seemed to excite a general dissatisfaction; and our
near neighbours, as if conscious of their eccentricities, muttered bitter
complaints against the admittance of strangers. The chapel, which was
not divided into pews, and even destitute of seats, contained near a
hundred people: half way round was erected a gallery. The preacher
continued raving, and, indeed, foaming at the mouth, in a manner too
shocking to relate:—he allowed himself no time to breathe, but, seemingly
intoxicated, uttered the most dismal howls and groans imaginable, which
were answered by the congregation, so loud as occasionally to drown even
the voice of the preacher. At last, being nearly exhausted by continual
vociferation, and fainting from exertion, he sunk down in the pulpit.
The meeting, however, did not disperse: a psalm was immediately sung by a
man, who, we imagined, officiated as clerk, accompanied by the whole
congregation. The psalm had not continued long before we observed part
of the assembly, to our great surprise, jumping in small parties of
three, four, and sometimes five in a set, lifting up their hands, beating
their breasts, and making the most horrid gesticulations. Each
individual separately jumped, regularly succeeding one another, while the
rest generally assisted the jumper by the help of their hands. The women
always appeared more vehement than the men, and infinitely surpassed them
in numbers: seeming to endeavour to excel each other in jumping,
screaming, and howling. We observed, indeed, that many of them lost
their shoes, hats, and bonnets, with the utmost indifference, and never
condescended to search after them; in this condition, it is not unusual
to meet them jumping to their homes. Their meetings are twice a week,
Wednesdays and Sundays. Having accidentally met with a gentleman, at the
hotel, a native of Siberia, we invited him to our party; and, induced by
curiosity, he readily accompanied us to the chapel. On the commencement
of the jumping, he entreated us to quit the congregation, exclaiming
“Good God! I for a moment forgot I was in a Christian country. The
dance of the Siberians, in the worship of the Lama, with their shouts and
gesticulations, is not more horrid!” This observation so forcibly struck
me, that I could not avoid inserting it in my note-book.
With disgust we left the chapel, and were given to understand, by our
landlord, they celebrate a particular day every year, when instances have
been known of women dying by too great an exertion; and fainting is
frequently the consequence of their excessive jumping.
This sect is by no means confined to the town of Caernarvon; but in many
villages, and several market towns, both in North and South Wales, they
have established regular chapels. “They have (says a correspondent to
the Gentleman’s Magazine) {197} periodical meetings in many of the larger
towns, to which they come from thirty to forty miles round. At one held
at Denbigh, about last April, there were, I believe, upwards of four
thousand people, from different parts. At another, held at Bala, soon
afterwards, nearly double that number were supposed to be present.” The
last number appears rather to be exaggerated, though the letter, being
dated from Denbigh, should be considered as authoritative.
Another correspondent to the Gentleman’s Magazine gives the following
information respecting the sect: “That they are not a distinct sect, but
Methodists, of the same persuasion as the late Mr. Whitfield; for though
there are several congregations of the Wesleyan Methodists in this
country, there is no such custom amongst them. But jumping during
religious worship is no new thing amongst the other party, having (by
what I can learn) been practised by them for many years past. I have
seen some of their pamphlets in the Welsh language, in which this custom
is justified by the example of David, who danced before the ark; and of
the lame man, restored by our blessed Saviour, at the gate of the temple,
who leaped for joy.” How far this gentleman’s account may be accurate, I
leave for others to decide: it is certainly to be lamented, in a country
where the Christian religion is preached in a style of the greatest
purity and simplicity, that these poor ignorant deluded wretches should
be led to a form of worship so dissonant to the established church of
England, by a poor ignorant fellow, devoid of education and common sense.
The same road we had so much admired the preceding Saturday, soon brought
us to
BANGOR,
the oldest Episcopal see in Wales; being founded in 516.
The situation is deeply secluded, “far from the bustle of a jarring
world,” and must have accorded well with monastic melancholy; for the
Monks, emerging from their retired cells, might here indulge in that
luxurious gloominess, which the prospect inspires, and which would soothe
the asperities inflicted upon them by the severe discipline of
superstition. The situation of Bangor appears more like a scene of airy
enchantment than reality; and the residences of the Canons are endeared
to the votaries of landscape by the prospect they command. On the
opposite shore, the town of Beaumaris was seen straggling up the deep
declivity, with its quay crowded with vessels, and all appeared bustle
and confusion; the contrast, which the nearer prospect inspired, was too
evident to escape our notice, where the
“Oak, whose boughs were moss’d with age,
And high top bald with dry antiquity,”
afforded a seat for the contemplation of the wide expanse of the ocean,
which is seen beyond the little island of Puffin, or Priestholm; so
called from the quantity of birds of that species, which resort here in
the summer months.
The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part very
ancient; the church was burnt down by Owen Glendwr, in the reign of King
Henry IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bishop Henry Dene, (or
Deane), between the years 1496 and 1500; the tower and nave by Bishop
Skevington, in 1532. The whole is Gothic architecture, and the interior
of the cathedral has, within the last six years, been altered, and now
presents a most imposing effect. The choir, which formerly was only
fifty-two feet in length, has been extended into the nave, and is in
length 110 feet from the east window; the remaining part of the nave has
been neatly fitted up with free pews, for the Welsh congregation, and
will accommodate about 700 persons. The choir will contain about 600
persons. The late improvements were done by a public subscription, which
amounted to nearly 4000_l._ and the money has been expended in the most
beneficial and tasteful manner, under the superintendance of the Rev. J.
H. Cotton, Precentor and Senior Vicar, by whose praise-worthy exertions,
the money was collected in different parts of the United Kingdom. There
are several bishops {200} buried in the choir. I could dwell with
pleasure on the picturesque beauties of this little episcopal see; but a
repetition of the same epithets, grand, beautiful, sublime, fine, with a
long catalogue, which must necessarily occur, would appear tautologous on
paper, though their archetypes in nature would assume new colours at
every change of position of the beholder.
This bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian,
bishop of the diocese, in the reign of Edward the First; who, being in
high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening
the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had,
as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of King
Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of
the principality allotted to the see.
Mr. Evans, in his valuable work, the Topography of North Wales, has
clearly refuted the improbable charge made against Bishop Bulkely, of
having sold the cathedral bells; and, on the contrary, proves from
documents, that the cathedral was indebted to him for considerable
repairs, and that likewise by his will he was a benefactor to it; this
falsehood, which originated with Godwin, in his Treatise, entitled “De
Presulibus,” as a piece of scandal against the church, met with but too
ready a belief from former tourists, whose false records Mr. Evans
deserves great credit for refuting.
Bangor is governed by the Bishop, whose steward holds the courts. From
being a quiet, retired place, it has now become a scene of commercial
bustle and activity, and is rapidly rising into an important town. The
opening of Lord Penrhyn’s slate quarries, and the great increase of
travelling through it since the union with Ireland, have been the great
causes of its increased and growing prosperity. From the convenience for
sea-bathing, the excellent new roads which branch from it in every
direction, the beauties of scenery which surround it on every side, its
proximity to many of the finest objects which Wales can boast of, and the
great interest which is excited by the suspended bridge over the Menai
Strait, it has become a place of fashionable resort; and during the
summer exhibits a scene of gaiety and cheerfulness, that forms a striking
contrast to its ancient monastic gloom. The tourist will find this a fit
spot for his head quarters, as he can branch out in various directions,
and each affords him ample scope for his sketch-book or his
contemplation.
Public baths are much wanted here; and it is to be hoped that the spirit
of improvement, which has lately manifested itself in this neighbourhood,
will not rest till these are accomplished.
The castle is said to have been built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, in the
reign of William the Second; it stood on a steep hill, on the south side
of Bangor, called Castle Bank, but there is not at this time a vestige
remaining.
A pleasant walk leads to the Bangor Ferry Inn, delightfully situated,
overlooking the Straits of
MENAI.
This Strait, which separates Anglesea from the main land, although
bearing only the appearance of a river, is an arm of the sea, and most
dangerous in its navigation at particular periods of the tide, and in
boisterous weather: during the flood, from the flush of water at each
extremity, it has a double current, the clash of which, termed Pwll
Ceris, it is highly rash and dangerous to encounter. In the space of
fifteen miles there are six established ferries: the first of which, to
the south, is Abermenai, the next near Caernarvon, and three miles north
from the first is Tal y foel; four miles further, Moel y don; three miles
beyond which is the principal one, called Porthaethwy, but more generally
known as Bangor Ferry; it is the narrowest part of the Strait, and is
only about half a mile wide; this is the one over which the mails and
passengers pass on their route to and from Holyhead, and near which is
the bridge, of which a particular description and plan is for the first
time given; a mile further north is the fifth, Garth Ferry; and the
sixth, and widest ferry at high water, is between the village of Aber and
Beaumaris.
There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected
with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near
Porthaeth-hwy; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly cross the channel,
and cause such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the
contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority.
This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work
of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and
enlarge the opening; as it appears by history, that both Roman and
British cavalry, at low water, during neap tides, forded or swam over the
Strait, and covered the landing of the infantry from flat-bottomed boats.
The violent rush of water, and consequent inconvenience, delay, and
danger, when the wind and tide are unfavourable to the passage over
Bangor Ferry, in the present state of constant and rapid communication
with Ireland, gave rise to the idea of forming a bridge over the Menai.
Various estimates and plans were submitted to the public consideration by
our most celebrated engineers, and men of science; when, after numerous
delays, Mr. Telford’s design for one on the suspension principle was
adopted, and money granted by Parliament for carrying it into effect.
The first stone of this magnificent structure was laid on the 10th of
August, 1819, without any ceremony, by the resident engineer, Mr. Provis,
and the contractors for the masonry.