completing their contract for one half, 1250 miles, of the Transatlantic
cable, lost no time in proceeding with the manufacture of the
Mediterranean cables at their works in Birkenhead. Towards the end of
August, the African cable, with some portion of the Malta cable, was
shipped in the Mersey aboard their steamship Elba, the vessel before
employed in laying down the cable between Varna and Constantinople. It
should be mentioned that the African cable contained four wires, so that
it was more ponderous and less flexible than the Atlantic cable, which
has only one.
About this time, the writer happened to hear what was going on. Being
then engaged in preparing these Sardinian “Rambles” for the press, he
was desirous to make another trip to the island before their
publication; and, besides the connection of the Cagliari line of
telegraphs with the objects of his work, other circumstances had made
him generally interested in the subject of submarine telegraphy. He
therefore requested Mr. R.S. Newall's permission for his joining the
expedition, which was kindly granted.
With this preliminary statement, we proceed at once to the scene of
action. At the last moment it had been decided, for reasons with which I
am unacquainted, but, I believe, on the suggestion of the foreign
Governments interested in the project, to start from the African coast,
instead of from Cagliari; Cape de Garde, a few miles eastward of Bona, a
town on the Tunisian frontier of the French possessions in Algeria,
being selected as the point at or near which the submarine cable was to
be submerged. The Elba, with the cable on board, anchored off Bona on
Saturday, the 5th of September. Three war-steamships, appointed by the
foreign Governments to attend and assist in the operations, had arrived
some days before, and lay at anchor in the haven of Cazerain. The little
squadron consisted of the Brandon, a large frigate under the French
flag, with the Monzambano and the Ichnusa, both belonging to the royal
Sardinian navy; and on board were the Commissioners appointed by the
respective Governments to watch the operations.
It blew hard after the Elba's arrival, and the ships being detained in
harbour, waiting for a favourable wind, opportunities offered of landing
at Bona, and making some excursions into the surrounding country. The
old Arab town rises from the sea in the form of an amphitheatre, and you
see its high embattled walls running up the hill-side and embracing in
its enceinte the citadel, or Casbah, crowning the heights; the whole
backed by the towering summits and shaggy slopes of the chain of Mount
Edough. Within is a labyrinth of narrow streets; that leading direct
from the port crossing a steep ridge to the Place d'Armes, a square with
a fountain in the centre, overhung with palms and other exotics, and
where French architecture is singularly mixed with the Moorish style. On
one side stands a mosque, with its tall minaret; on the other, range
cafés and restaurants, and magazins de mode, with their lofty fronts,
arcades, and balconies. We linger for a moment on the spectacle offered
by the various populations which crowd the square from morn to eve, and
most after nightfall; a motley crowd of Arabs, Moors, Zouaves,
Chasseurs, Jews, and Maltese. In the picturesque contrast of costume it
presents, the gayest French uniforms possess no attractions compared
with the white and flowing bournous, with even the sheepskin mantle of
the poor Arab of the desert, the bright braided caftan of the Moor, the
turban, and the fez. But the limits assigned to this work being already
exceeded, I may not allow myself to dwell on the numberless objects
which attract the attention of a curious traveller, in scenes where the
modes and forms of Oriental life are singularly blended with those that
bear the freshest European stamp.
Nor is this the place for more than noting an excursion to the
picturesque ruins of Hippona, the old Roman city, the Hippo-Regius,
where the great St. Augustine laboured in the African episcopate, and
ended his days during the sufferings of Genseric's siege. They stand on
a hillock facing the sea, now covered with thickets of wild olive trees
and fragments of the buildings. What a plain is that you see from the
summit, stretching away in all directions, a vast expanse of grassy
meadows on the banks of the river Seybouse; parched indeed now by the
torrid heat of an African summer, but of rich verdure after the rains!
What prodigious ricks of hay we observe at the French cavalry barracks,
as we ride along! What growth of vegetables in the irrigated gardens of
the industrious, but turbulent, Maltese! Surely, but for the French
inaptitude to colonisation, this part of Algeria, at least, might be
turned to good account.
Changing the scene for a moment from the sultry plains, we may just note
another excursion, which led to the summit of the pass crossing the
chain of Mount Edough. At the top we look westward over a sea of
mountains, towards and beyond Constantine, the strongholds of the
indomitable Kabyles. Turning homewards, we slowly descend the winding
road, among slopes covered with a coarser _maquis_—still more fitted to
endure the drought—than the evergreen thickets of Corsica and Sardinia;
the dwarf palm, _chamærops humilis_, most prevailing. Bona, with its
walls and terraces and the Casbah and the minarets, rising above a grove
of orchards and gardens, now makes a pleasing picture. Beyond, in the
still water of the haven, our little fleet lies at anchor, with the
French guardship; outside, the blue Mediterranean is now very gently
rippled by the evening breeze.
We are recalled to the ships, and hasten on board, for the wind having
changed, with a promise of fair weather, it is decided to commence
operations. The point selected for landing the shore-end of the cable
was a sandy cove, a little to the eastward of Cape de Garde, or as it is
otherwise called Cap Rouge, a literal translation of _Ras-el-Hamrah_,
the name given it by the natives. There is an easy ascent from the cove
to Fort Génois, about half a mile distant. The fort, a white square
building at the edge of the cliffs, said to have been built by the
Genoese to protect their coral fisheries on this coast, was convenient
for establishing a temporary telegraph station, wires being run up to it
from the end of the submarine cable.
It was a lovely morning, the sun bright in a cloudless sky and the blue
Mediterranean calm as a lake, when the little squadron having got up
steam, ran along the shore, and successively anchored in the cove. There
floated, in happy union, the flags of the three allied Powers recently
engaged in very different operations: and the ships, with their boats
passing and repassing, formed a lively scene contrasted with that desert
shore, on the rocks of which a solitary Arab stood watching proceedings
so strange to him.
The Elba's stern having been brought round to the land, the ship was
moored within cable's length of the sandy beach; but the operation of
landing the submarine cable was delayed in consequence of the neglect of
the Sardinian company's agents, whose duty it was to have the land-line
of telegraph wires ready to communicate with Port Génois. This occupied
the whole day, and I took advantage of it, landing in one of the first
boats, to make a long ramble, visiting, in the course of it, Fort
Génois, an encampment of Arabs at some distance in the interior, and
climbing to the lighthouse on Cape de Garde, commanding, as may be
imagined, magnificent views. It was a toilsome march, over rocks and
sands, and through prickly thickets, in the full blaze of an African sun
at noontide; but the excursion was full of interest, and not without its
trifling adventures.
The shore works were not completed till sunset, when, all the boats
being recalled to the ships, they got under weigh, the Monzambano towing
the Elba, with the Ichnusa ahead, and the Brandon on her larboard bow.
The engineers began paying out the cable at eight o'clock, proceeding at
first slowly, as the night was dark, and being desirous to try
cautiously the working of the machinery. As the water deepened, the
cable ran out fast, and the speed was increased, so that by midnight we
had run about seventeen miles, with a loss in slack, it was reckoned up
to that time, of under twenty per cent, of cable, compared with the
distance run.
Few, I imagine, aboard the Elba got much sleep that night. The very idea
of sleep was precluded by the incessant roar of the cable, rushing, like
a mighty cataract, through the iron channels confining its course over
the deck, while the measured strokes of the steam-engine beat time to
the roar. Having laid down for two hours, I gave up my cabin to one of
our numerous guests; for the French and Italian commissioners being now
on board the Elba, besides Mr. Werner Siemens and his staff of German
telegraphists, her accommodations were fully tried; and as for
languages, she was a floating Babel. Coming on deck at twelve o'clock,
the lighthouse on Cape de Garde was still visible. The attendant ships
carried bright lanterns at their mastheads, sometimes throwing up signal
rockets; and so the convoy swept steadily on through the darkness, the
Elba still following in the wake of the Monzambano. Mr. Newall and Mr.
C. Liddell, who directed the whole operations, never quitted their post
at the break. The telegraphists, from their station amidship, tested the
insulation from time to time, speaking to the station at Port Génois.
Looking down into the mainhold, which was well lighted up, you saw the
men cutting the lashings to release the cable, as, gradually unfolding
its serpentine coils from the cone in the centre, it was dragged rapidly
upwards by the strain of its vast weight, and rushed through the rings
to the vessel's stern. There the speed was moderated, before it plunged
from the taffrail into the depths beneath, by the slow revolutions of a
large wheel, round which the cable took several turns.
As day broke and the sun rose magnificently over the Mediterranean,
Galita Island came in sight, distant from thirty to forty miles to the
eastward; the high lands of Africa being still visible. With the sea
perfectly calm, all augured well for the success of the enterprise,
except that serious apprehensions were entertained lest the cable,
paying out so fast in the great depth of water we were now
crossing,—1500 fathoms,—might not hold out to reach the land. Thus we
ran on all the morning, the vessel's speed being increased to between
five and six knots per hour, and the strain on the cable to five tons
per mile; the depth ranging from 1500 to 1700 fathoms.
Towards the afternoon the land of Sardinia was in sight between fifty
and sixty miles ahead, our course being steered towards Cape Teulada,
the extreme southern point of the island. By sunset we had reached
within twelve miles of the shore, and angles having been carefully taken
to fix our exact position, we anchored in eighty fathoms water. Soon
afterwards the attendant ships closed in, and anchored near us for the
night. The little squadron, well lighted, formed a cheerful group, the
sea was smooth as a mill-pond, and the mountains of Sardinia, after
reflecting the last rays of the setting sun, loomed heavily in the
growing twilight. All hands on board the Elba were glad of rest after
thirty-six hours of incessant toil.
In the morning, as we had run out the whole of our cable proper, a piece
of the Malta cable was spliced on, with some smaller coils also on
board. Meanwhile, the Ichnusa had gone ahead at daybreak to take
soundings, and when all was ready we began paying out the cable, being
then, as already stated, about twelve miles from the land. All went on
smoothly, and there was scarcely any loss of cable by slack. The eye
turned naturally, again and again, from anxiously counting the
lessening coils in the hold to measure our decreasing distance from the
shore, as its hold features and indentations became hourly more
distinct. Cape Teulada stood right ahead, a bold headland, with peaked
summits 900 feet high. It forms the eastern point of the Gulf of Palmas,
and has a long face of precipitous cliffs towards the sea. To the west
of this deep inlet appeared the rocky islands of San Antioco and San
Pietro, with cliffs of volcanic formation; and the Toro rock stood out a
bold insulated object, 500 or 600 feet high, marking the entrance of the
Gulf of Palmas, a spacious bay offering excellent anchorage.
We had run ten miles towards a beach under the cliffs, a little to the
eastward of Cape Teulada, when the small cable, now in course of being
paid out, suddenly parted. The mishap occurred about a mile and a half
from the shore, in forty fathoms water, with a sandy bottom. It was
provoking enough to have our expectations baulked, when holding on for
another half hour we should have succeeded in bringing the cable to
land; but, for our comfort, the main difficulties of the enterprise were
overcome. The African cable had been securely laid in the greatest
depths of the Mediterranean, and the shore-end of the line could be
easily recovered in the shallow water. The only question was, whether it
should be immediately effected; but for this the weather had become very
unfavourable. The wind had been blowing strong from the south-east all
the morning; and a gust of it caught the Elba's stern, and canted it
suddenly round, when the small cable snapped like a packthread. Rather a
heavy sea was now running, and, on the whole, it was thought advisable
to defer the concluding operations until an entirely new end to the
cable could be procured from England.
For this purpose, and at the same time to bring out the Malta cable, the
Elba was despatched homeward a few hours after the accident happened.
Fresh angles having been carefully secured, nothing remained but to take
leave of our friends before the squadron parted,—the Brandon for the
Levant, and the Sardinian frigates for ports in the island. While all
belonging to the Elba considered that the submersion of a cable between
Algeria and the coast of Sardinia was virtually a _fait accompli_, it
was almost painful to witness the dismay of the Italians, at the mishap
which had occurred to cloud their anticipations. It was evident that
they entirely distrusted all assurances of the contractors' ability to
recover the end of the cable, and perfect the line. Their fears were
groundless; within a few weeks the new coil was brought from England,
and the end of the submerged cable having been grappled at the first
haul, the work was completed without any difficulty. Messrs. Newall and
Liddell immediately proceeded to lay down the Cagliari and Malta, and
the Malta and Corfu cable, 375 and 420 miles respectively; both which
they effected with entire success in the months of November and December
following, with a very small average waste of cable over the distance,
and in depths equally great with those in which the African line was
laid.
My own object now being to reach Cagliari, the commander of the
Monzambano was kind enough to give me a passage in his fine frigate. I
got on board just as the officers and their guests were sitting down to
dinner under an awning on the deck. Among them was the old General Della
Marmora, whose love of science and devotion to the interests of
Sardinia had induced him, though suffering from bad health, to make the
voyage for the purpose of witnessing the important experiment. I found
that he did not share in the apprehensions of the Italian shareholders
on board as to the loss of the cable. The General had long cherished the
idea that the ports of Sardinia, and especially Cagliari, are destined
to partake largely of the commercial advantages resulting from a variety
of recent events. In a little work, already referred to, which he was
kind enough to give me[102], he points out the fine position of
Cagliari, its spacious gulf, with good anchorage, open to the south, and
in the highway of all ships navigating the Mediterranean between the
Straits of Gibraltar, the Levant, and the Black Sea. A glance at the
map, he truly observes, will show no other port, either on the coast of
northern Africa, in Sicily, or the south of Italy, which can be its
rival. Malta alone competes with it both in position and as a harbour;
but he justly asks,—“Can a barren rock like Malta be compared, in a
commercial point of view, with an island of such extent, and possessing
so many natural resources, as Sardinia?”
The General also points out the advantages offered by the electric
telegraph station at Cagliari to masters of ships bound to the
Mediterranean, the Levant, and the Black Sea, from the ports of Northern
Europe, or, _vice versâ_, to those coming from the eastward, to induce
them to touch at Cagliari. After, perhaps, long and wearisome voyages,
they will find, he observes, in their very track, in the heart of the
Mediterranean, the means of correspondence, in a few hours, with their
families and their owners, receiving news and instructions from home.
These facilities he considers of inestimable value; and it strikes us
that the area included in the General's observations will be much
extended when the electric wires are carried across the Atlantic, and
that American ships are more likely to avail themselves of the
advantages offered than those of any other nation.
Without sharing the sanguine anticipations of the excellent General La
Marmora as to the speedy regeneration of Sardinia, and the development
of her natural resources, undoubtedly great as they are, the remark may
be allowed, that it would be a singular and happy event if this island,
which appears to have been one of the first, if not the first, station
of the earliest maritime people, in their advance towards Western
Europe, should, now that the tide of civilisation, so long flowing from
the East, has evidently taken a reflex course, become again that centre
of commercial intercourse for which its geographical position so well
fits it.
Towards evening, the Monzambano was running along the iron-bound coast
terminating with Cape Spartivento, the western headland of the Gulf of
Cagliari. I know not whether it was from the position of the ruins, or
the hazy state of the atmosphere, night coming on, that I failed to make
out some Cyclopean vestiges mentioned by Captain Smyth—Mr. Tyndale says
they are a large Nuraghe—as standing on one of the most remarkable
summits, at an elevation of upwards of 1000 feet, and called by the
peasants, “The Giants' Tower.” “This structure,” observes Captain Smyth,
“situated amongst bare cliffs, wild ravines, and desolate grounds,
appeared a ruin of art amidst a ruin of nature, and imparted to the
scene inexpressible grandeur.” During our passage we had a stormy sky
and a strong head-wind, the sun setting gorgeously among masses of
purple and orange clouds. There was nothing to relieve the barren aspect
of this desert coast but the grey watch-towers from point to point,
similar to those we saw on the coasts of Corsica; and, having paced for
an hour the frigate's long flush deck, I was glad to turn-in early, and
enjoy the comforts of a state cabin after the fatigues and watches of
the two preceding days and nights.
The contrary wind retarded our progress, and it was not till after
daylight that, approaching the harbour of Cagliari, I enjoyed the fine
view, described in a former chapter, of the city, stretching a long line
of suburbs at the base of the heights crowned by the Casteddu, with its
towers and domes. The frigate entering the port was moored alongside the
government wharf; from which may be inferred the depth of water, and the
class of vessels the port is capable of receiving. It now contained only
about twenty ships, one only of which, a brig, was under the English
flag. The rest were of small burthen, and mostly Genoese and French.
General La Marmora states, in the Memoir before quoted, that “since the
crosses of Savoy and of Genoa have been united in the same flag,” the
Genoese have turned much attention to the trade of Sardinia; and that a
company was forming for the improvement of the port of Cagliari, in
order to draw to it some part of the corn trade of the Black Sea. Thus
the ancient granary of Rome might become the emporium of the trade in
corn for Italy and Southern France, and even for Africa; the General
observing, with what reason there may be some doubt, that, while only
two voyages can be made between the ports of those countries and the
Black Sea, three, or even four such, could be accomplished from
Cagliari.
It is to be regretted that I did not obtain the latest statistics of the
commerce of Sardinia, and the port of Cagliari in particular, from our
very intelligent Consul, Mr. Craig; recollecting only his having
mentioned that coal is the principal import from England;—France and
Genoa, I conclude, supplying manufactured articles and colonial produce.
Salt, he said, was the chief export, great part of it being shipped to
Newfoundland and Labrador.
I cannot mention Mr. Craig, for the last time in these pages, without an
acknowledgment of the many kind offices for which I am indebted to him
during the present and preceding visits to Sardinia, nor can I easily
forget the pleasure enjoyed in his amiable family circle. Hours so spent
in a foreign country have a double charm; for in such agreeable society
the traveller breathes the atmosphere, and is restored to the habits, of
his cherished home. I have no reason to think that Mr. Craig's long and
valuable services are not duly appreciated by his Government; but it
might be wished that, in any re-arrangement of the consular service,
they be taken into consideration. It is a sort of honourable exile for a
man to spend sixteen years of his life on a foreign service, with a
family growing up, who enjoy very rare opportunities of conversing with
any of their own countrymen, and still less of their countrywomen, in
their mother tongue. I take some liberty in venturing to offer these
wholly unauthorized remarks on a subject of some delicacy; and only wish
I could flatter myself they have any chance of reaching influential
quarters, and not being forgotten. Mr. Craig's position, respected and
esteemed as he long has been, is eligible in many respects; but it might
perhaps be improved.
At the Consul-General's I again met some of the officers of the Ichnusa,
to whom, as well as to Boyl commanding the Monzambano, I wish to offer
my acknowledgments for many civilities. Lieutenant Baudini, of the
Ichnusa and other Sardinian officers who understand English, may chance
to peruse this page, and will interpret my sentiments to their brother
officers. Commandant Boyl was kind enough to give me a passage to Genoa,
being under orders for that port. We had a pleasant run, the style of
living on board the Monzambano being excellent, the society agreeable,
and enjoying magnificent weather. I have before observed that the
officers of the Sardinian navy are intelligent and gentlemanly, and
appear to be well up to their profession. The crews are smart, and every
thing aboard the ship was in the highest order and conducted with
perfect discipline.
Steaming close in-shore along the eastern coast of Sardinia, remarkable
principally for its bold and sterile character, there was a striking
contrast in the appearance of the same coast of Corsica, which came in
sight after crossing the mouth of the Straits of Bonifacio. This was
comparatively verdant, not only as regards the fertile plains of the
_littorale_, described in an early chapter, but, even where the mountain
ranges approached the Mediterranean south of these extensive plains, the
sterile aspect of their towering summits and precipitous cliffs was
often relieved by immense forests encircling their bases, while every
hillside and slope to the valleys appeared densely clothed with the
evergreen _macchia_, for which Corsica is so remarkable.