characters both on the obverse and reverse. The one here represented was
also given me by Carlo Rugiu, with some Roman coins, both silver and
brass. We do not find that the Saracens ever effected any permanent
settlement in Sardinia; which accounts for the comparatively small
number of these coins discovered. The Saracen pirates who infested the
coast from the time that St. Augustine's relics were rescued, in 722, to
so late a period as 1815, were more likely to pillage the money of the
inhabitants than to leave any of their own behind them.[99]
The Terracotta collection in the Royal Museum exhibits about one
thousand specimens of vases, &c. of Sardo-Phœnician, Carthaginian,
Egyptian, and Roman fabric, similar to those preserved in the British
Museum. In the natural-history department, the ornithological class is
most complete, containing upwards of a thousand specimens of native and
foreign birds, collected and prepared by Signor Cara, who has paid much
attention to this branch of the science. Among the native objects of
interest was the flamingo, frequenting, with other aquatic birds, in
vast flocks, the lagunes in the neighbourhood of Cagliari, whither they
resort during the autumn and winter, from the coast of Africa. The
largest of these lakes, called the Scaffa, is six or seven miles long by
three or four broad. Vast quantities of salt are procured from the
salterns in the same neighbourhood and other parts of Sardinia, and it
forms an important article of export, and of revenue. In conchology and
mineralogy, the cabinet is rich both in foreign and native specimens;
the minerals having been in great part collected by La Marmora, and
arranged by him in 1835.
The Phœnician remains are, in some respects, the most interesting part
of the collection. Among them we find a block of sandstone, with a
Phœnician inscription, discovered in 1774 at Pula, the ancient Nora, now
a pleasant village embowered in orange groves and orchards, and crowned
with palms, on the coast of the Gulf, about sixteen miles from Cagliari.
Nora, it may be remembered, is stated by Greek writers to have been the
first town founded by colonists in the island of Sardinia; and though
the inscription on the stone has not been satisfactorily deciphered, it
seems to be agreed that it records the arrival of “Sardus,” called
“Pater,” at “Nora,” from “Tarshish,” in Libya.
But the Sarde idols, already mentioned, form the unique feature in this
collection. La Marmora enumerates 180 of these bronzes, the greater part
of which are preserved in the museum at Cagliari, consisting principally
of small images, varying from four to seventeen inches high, of
irregular and often grotesque forms, and betraying a rude state of
art.[100] They are considered miniatures of the large and original idols
adored by the Canaanites and Syro-Phœnicians; and from their diminutive
size may have been household gods. Mr. Tyndale conjectures that the
“Teraphim” of Scripture were of the same class. There appears, however,
no doubt that these bronzes, as well as the objects in Terracotta
already mentioned, are of native manufacture. Thus, while the images
appear to be the symbols of a religion peculiar to the inhabitants of
Sardinia at a very early period, they bear a certain affinity to similar
objects of worship in other countries, especially in Syria and Egypt; so
that in Signor Cara's nomenclature these remains are denominated
Sardo-Phœnician and Sardo-Egyptian. It is remarkable, however, that no
corresponding relics have been found in those countries.
There is a small collection of Sardinian antiquities in the British
Museum, recently supplied by Signor Cara; but it does not contain, as
might have been wished, any specimens of these singular images. They are
accurately figured and described by La Marmora, and Mr. Tyndale has
fully investigated their history and relations in his very valuable
work. It would be out of place further to pursue the subject here,
especially as we have already devoted a chapter to traces among the
Sardes of the rites of Moloch and Adonis, in which two of these images
are described. The subject is interesting both as connected with the
Phœnician migrations, and as bringing to light symbols of that
Canaanitish idolatry so frequently and emphatically denounced in the
Sacred Writings.
Returning to modern times, I do not find that I have anything of
importance to add to my notices of the present state of Cagliari, except
the introduction of the Electric Telegraph connecting it with the
continents of Europe and Africa. Prom its having been the medium of
communication between England and India during the recent crisis,
Cagliari has acquired a notoriety to which it had previously few
pretensions. Some account of the establishment of this Telegraph will be
given in our concluding chapters.
CHAP. XXXVII.
_Porto-Torres.—Another Italian Refugee.—Embark for Genoa.—West
Coast of Corsica.—Turin.—The Sardinian Electric Telegraph.—The
Wires laid to Cagliari._
The preceding notices of Cagliari were gathered during a visit to
Sardinia in the autumn of 1867; the “Rambles” in this island, detailed
in preceding chapters, having been rather abruptly terminated, under
circumstances already adverted to, without our being able to reach the
capital. On that occasion we embarked for the continent at Porto-Torres,
the origin and decay of which place is before incidentally mentioned.
The neighbourhood abounds in remains of Roman antiquities; and at a
short distance is the cathedral of St. Gavino, one of the oldest
structures in Sardinia, having been founded in the eleventh century. The
roof is covered with lead, and supported by antique columns dug up in
the adjacent ruins. There also were found two marble sarcophagi,
preserved in the church, on which figures of Apollo surrounded by the
Muses are represented in high relief.
Having to embark at an early hour, we were obliged to pass a night at
Porto-Torres, notwithstanding its notoriety for a most pestiferous
atmosphere, occasioned, as usual, by the exhalations from the marshy
lowlands adjoining the coast. The impression was confirmed by the
miserable aspect of the place, one long wide vacant street, in which, as
we drove down it, the effects of the intemperie were stamped on the
sickly faces of the few stragglers we met. We found, however, a roomy
and decent hotel, and, after rambling about the neighbourhood, sat down
to our usual evening tasks of writing and drawing. We were in light
costume, and had thrown open the casements, for though the apartment was
both lofty and spacious, the air felt insufferably close and stifling.
Shortly afterwards, on the waiter coming in to lay the supper table, he
stood aghast at our exposure to the night air, and precipitately dosed
the casements, exclaiming, “Signore, it would have been death for you to
have slept here in August or September; and, even now, the risk you are
running is not slight.”
This man was another of the Italian refugees, a Lombard; but of a very
superior cast of character and intelligence to our _maître de cuisine_
at Sassari. These qualities first opened out on his begging permission
to examine my friend's drawings and some ancient coins which lay on the
table; on both which he made remarks, showing that he was a person of
education and taste. He had been an _avocat_ at Milan, and, compromised
by the insurrection, “You see,” said he, “what I have been driven to,”
throwing a napkin, over his shoulder with somewhat of a theatrical air.
“But a good time is coming; meanwhile, not having much to do here, I
employ my time as well as I can. You shall see my little library;”—and
he brought in some volumes, mostly classical, the Odyssey, Euripides,
Sophocles, Æschylus, and Cornelius Nepos. After awhile he pulled out of
his bosom, with some mystery, for he was still professedly a catholic, a
small copy of Diodati's Italian version of the New Testament. “This,” he
said, with emphasis, “is my greatest consolation; I retire into the
fields, and there I read it.” It was impossible not to commiserate the
fate of Ignazio Mugio, the Lombard refugee. A very different character
was old Pietro, the steam-boat agent. Groping our way with some
difficulty up a gloomy staircase, in the dusk of the evening, we found
him, spectacles on nose, poring over a gazette by a feeble oil lamp. The
old man was so eager for news that it was difficult to fix him to the
object of our inquiries; and then he expatiated on the attractions of
the neighbourhood, and the “chasse magnifique de grèves,” as he called
thrush-shooting, in the country round, if we came to Porto-Torres in the
month of December. We laughed at the idea of such sport; but I think it
is said that the thrushes, fattening on the olive berries, are very
delicious.
A considerable commerce, considerable for a Sardinian port, gives some
life to this desolate place; facilitated by Porto-Torres being the
northern terminus of the great national road running through Sassari,
only nine miles distant. The principal exports are oil and wine. The
little haven is defended by a strong tower, erected in 1549. We found
moored in the port several Greek brigs, polaccas, and feluccas, with
their long yards and pointed lateen sails; and the fine steam-boat
which was to carry us to Genoa.
[Illustration: PORTO-TORRES.]
The mountainous and nearly desert island of Asinara forms a fine object
in running out of the gulf to which it gives its name, forming the
north-western point; and the high lands of Corsica soon came once more
in view. Our course lay along its western coast, the weather being
favourable; but with a foul wind it is considered unsafe, and vessels
run through the Straits of Bonifacio and coast the eastern side of the
island. In the afternoon we were off the entrance of the Gulf of
Ajaccio, and gazed from seaward on the Isles Sanguinaires, with the
tower of the lighthouse, behind which the sun set on the pleasant
evening when we took our view from the Chapel of the Greeks. Now,
towards sunset, we were rapidly gliding along the shore of Isola Rossa,
and the slanting rays glowing directly on the porphyritic cliffs gave a
rich but mellow intensity to the ruddy hue whence they derive their
name. Some of the boats stop at the town, a new erection by Pascal
Paoli, and the seat of an increasing trade. Leaving it behind, we ran
along the coast of Corsica with a fair wind, exultingly bounding
homewards as, the breeze freshening, our boat sprung from wave to wave,
dashing the spray from her bows. Farewell to Corsica! Her grey peaks and
shaggy hill-sides are fast fading from our sight, in the growing
obscurity. We pass Calvi, famous in Mediæval and Nelsonian annals, San
Fiorenzo, on which we had looked down in our rambles on the
chestnut-clad ridges of the Nebbio; and the mountain masses of the
Capo-Corso, now loom like dark clouds on the eastern horizon. All beyond
is a blank. Again we cross the Tuscan Sea in the depth of the night. We
are on deck when rosy morning opens to our view the glories of the Bay
of Genoa. At six we are moored in the harbour, and have to wait for the
visit of the officer of health. At last we land, breakfast, and take the
rail to Turin.
At Turin we passed some hours very pleasantly at the British Minister's.
We are indebted to Sir James Hudson for facilitating our excursion in
Sardinia with more than official zeal and interest in its success. He
knows the island well, having braved the inconveniences of rough
travelling in its wildest districts. At his hotel we chanced to meet Mr.
I. W. Brett, the promoter of a line of electric telegraph intended to
connect the islands of Corsica and Sardinia with the European and
African continents. A company had been formed to carry out this project,
consisting principally of Italian shareholders, part of whose outlay was
to be recouped, on the completion of the undertaking, by the Governments
interested in its success—the French in regard to Corsica and Algeria,
and the Piedmontese as far as concerns Sardinia.
Starting from a point in the Gulf of Spezzia, the wires were to be
carried by a submarine cable to the northern extremity of Capo-Corso;
where landing they would be conveyed, through the island, partly by
submarine channels, with a branch to Ajaccio, to its southern point near
Bonifacio. Thence, submerged in a cable crossing the Straits, they would
again touch the land at Capo Falcone, mentioned in these rambles as the
nearest point in Sardinia; the distance being only about ten nautical
miles. The wires were then to be conducted on posts, through the island
of Sardinia, in a line, varying but slightly from our route, by Tempio
and Sassari to Cagliari. From Cape Spartivento, or some point on the
southern shore of Sardinia, a submarine cable was to be laid, the most
arduous part of the whole undertaking, to the African coast; landing
somewhere near Bona, a town on the western frontier of the French
possessions in Algeria.
Up to the point of the landing in Sardinia all was evidently plain
sailing; but when we met Mr. Brett at Turin, on our return from
Sardinia, in November, 1853, he was under some anxiety about the land
line through the island; the mountainous character of the northern
province of Gallura presenting obstacles to the operation of carrying
the wires through it, and the lawless character of the inhabitants
threatening their safety. On both these points we were able to reassure
him; we had seen and heard enough of the brave mountaineers to feel
convinced that there was no cause for apprehension of outrages connected
with the undertaking. And my fellow-traveller, who belonged to the
scientific branch of the army, had not passed through the country
without making such observations as enabled him to satisfy Mr. Brett's
inquiries respecting the line to be selected and its natural facilities.
In the end, the wires were successfully stretched throughout the island
from Capo Falcone to Cagliari, after surmounting, however, serious
obstacles, though not of the sort previously apprehended. For the
success of this operation the company are greatly indebted to the
exertions of Mr. William S. Craig, H.B.M.'s Consul-General in Sardinia.
Having neither any personal interest in the concern, nor official
connection with a Company entirely foreign in its object and supporters,
he devoted his time gratuitously to the furtherance of this branch of
its operations, actuated only by a desire to promote an important public
undertaking. The whole practical management of the work (I do not speak
of engineering, little of which could be required) devolved on Mr.
Craig; and with much self-sacrifice, he threw into it all that zeal and
intelligence which, with universal goodwill, have acquired for him the
high estimation in which he is generally held.
I have before had occasion to mention the respect entertained for him by
the mountaineers of Gallura, resulting from a former connection
beneficial to parts of that district; and I feel convinced that his name
and sanction better obviated any prejudices, and offered a broader
shield for the protection of the wires from injury, than all the power
of the Piedmontese officials, backed by squadrons of carabineers, could
have done. Not only so, but Mr. Craig had less difficulty in making
arrangements with the proprietors of the lands in the northern province
than in the more civilised districts of the south, where, in some
instances, the privileges required were reluctantly conceded as a mark
of personal respect.
It was on descending to the plains that the worst difficulties were
encountered. Mr. Warre Tyndale states that during the construction of
the great central road from Cagliari to Porto-Torres, which it took
seven years to complete, more than half the engineers employed in the
work died of the intemperie, or were obliged to retire from the effects
of that fatal malady. This scourge swept off with no less virulence the
workmen employed on the line of telegraph, and as the season advanced,
cartloads after cartloads were carried to the hospitals, so that the
works were stopped. Mr. Craig had to provide for all emergencies, the
whole expenditure was managed by him, and this calamity added to his
cares and responsibilities. But he persevered, and brought the
operations to a successful end. Such valuable services merited a more
liberal treatment than they received at the hands of those who
gratuitously secured them. A body of English directors and shareholders
would not have failed to mark their sense of the obligation conferred by
some honorary acknowledgment. I have not heard of any such act of
generosity on the part of the Sardo-French Company. It was a foreigner
who remarked to me the _petitesses_ which pervaded the dealings of his
countrymen. I imagine that the phrase would be found particularly
applicable to the dealings of this company, if all its history were
known.
But we are anticipating occurrences. On our return from Sardinia, the
operations of the Sardo-French Telegraph Company connected with the
island were yet in embryo. The travellers who discussed the
probabilities of success at Turin little thought that one of them would
two years afterwards, towards the close of the Crimean war, be the Chief
of the Staff employed in the organisation and superintendence of the
military telegraph service in the East, having to inspect the laying
down many hundred miles of submarine cable and wires in the Black Sea;
or that it would be the fortune of the other to witness the final
accomplishment of the long-delayed and frustrated hopes of the
Sardo-French Company, by being present at the laying down of the
submarine Mediterranean cable between Cagliari and Bona on the coast of
Algeria. But so it turned out; and the completion of this undertaking
being an event in Sardinian history, considered by no less an authority
than General Della Marmora to have an important bearing on the
commercial prospects of the island,—and the operation of successfully
submerging telegraph cables in very deep water, in oceans or seas, being
both new and possessing considerable interest,—a short account by an
eyewitness of the occurrences attending the laying down the African
cable may prove both amusing and instructive. It will form an
appropriate episode to the Sardinian Rambles, and in that view an
additional chapter will be devoted to it.
For the rest, it only remains briefly to close the “Rambles” of 1853.
Our visit at Turin reopened Sardinian interests; but after that, the
best thing to be done was to hasten homewards before the inclemency of
the season should retard our progress. Still, the snow fell heavily as
we walked over the summit of the pass of the Mont-Cenis, preceding the
diligence in which we had travelled all night. The railway had not then
been extended from Turin to Suza on one side of the Alps, nor, on the
other, beyond Châlons sur Saône, between Lyons and Paris; so that,
travelling by diligence, we were three nights and two days on the road
to Paris. Both the French and Italian lines of railway have been much
advanced since the period of our journey. To complete the line, it
remains only that the gigantic undertaking of tunnelling the chain of
the Alps be successfully executed. Allowing ourselves the refreshment of
spending a day in Paris, we reached London in the evening of the 17th of
November.
CHAP. XXXVIII.
_Sardinian Electric Telegraph.—The Land Line completed.—Failures
in Attempts to lay a Submarine Cable to Algeria.—The Work
resumed.—A Trip to Bona on the African Coast.—The Cable
laid.—Cagliari an Important Telegraph Station.—Its
Commerce.—The return Voyage.—CONCLUSION._
After completing the land line of telegraph, as already mentioned, the
Sardinian Company[101] failed in three attempts at laying a submarine
cable to connect the wires from Cagliari with the coast of Algeria. We
will not here enter into an inquiry as to the causes of these disasters,
instructive as it might be if we had space, and this were a fitting
opportunity. Suffice it to say that the first experiment failed soon
after leaving Cape Spartivento; on the second, the line was laid for
about two-thirds of the course, but with such a profuse expenditure of
the submarine cable that it was run out, and the enterprise abruptly
terminated. A third attempt to renew the operation proved equally
unsuccessful.
The project received a severe check from these repeated failures. The
company had established their line, by sea and land, as far as Cagliari.
So far, well: the communications of the respective Governments with
their islands of Corsica and Sardinia were complete. Incidentally, also,
England derived some advantage from the stations at Cagliari during the
most anxious period of the crisis in Indian affairs. It was one step in
advance towards telegraphic communications with India, though a short
one. But the main object of the French Government in promoting the
enterprise was to link its connection with Algeria by the electric
wires; and till that was accomplished, the Company had no claim to be
reimbursed for that portion of their expenditure guaranteed in the event
of success.
One may imagine the dismay of the shareholders, mostly Italians, in this
state of affairs. Their capital must have been greatly, if not
altogether, exhausted by the expenditure on previous works and the
abortive attempts at laying the African cable. It was now only, in all
probability, that they became seriously alive to the difficulties of the
undertaking, and the immense risks that must be incurred in laying
submarine cables in great depths of water. For it was now known that the
depth of the Mediterranean in many parts crossed by the track of
submarine cables, is no less than that through which the Transatlantic
cable has to be laid.
The prosecution of the scheme was suspended; but meanwhile time was
running on, and the period fixed for completing the line had nearly
expired. In this event, the government guarantee being forfeited, the
concern would become a ruinous affair, as the telegraph traffic of two
small islands could not be remunerative for the capital expended in
connecting them with the continent. A short extension of the term for
completing the undertaking had been obtained; but that was nearly run
out before matters were put in a better train.
In this emergency, Mr. Brett, the _gérant_ of the foreign company, who
had contracted for and personally superintended the previous attempts to
lay the African cable, entered into negotiations for its being
undertaken by Messrs. Newall and Co. They had an established reputation,
not only as having long been manufacturers of submarine electric cables,
the quality of which had been tested by continuous service, but as
having, under contracts with the English Government, laid down between
five and six hundred miles of cable in the Black Sea during the Crimean
war, without a single mishap. They were, therefore, not mere theorists;
having acquired by long experience a practical knowledge of submarine
telegraphy which had not fallen to the lot of any others who had turned
their attention to that branch of the science.
The overtures made on the part of the Sardo-French Company having been
favourably received in the course, I believe, of the summer of 1857,
Messrs. Newall and Co., nothing daunted by the previous failures, though
doubtless fully aware of the difficulties they had to encounter, agreed
to lay the African cable for a given sum, taking all risks on
themselves. When it is understood that, about the same time, they also
contracted with the “Mediterranean Extension Company,” on like terms as
to responsibility, to lay down submarine cables between Cagliari and
Malta, and from Malta to Corfu, extending over 795 nautical miles, and
making, with the African cable, a total of 920 miles, some idea may be
formed of the magnitude of the operations undertaken by a single firm.
The mileage is more than one third of the distance embraced in the
scheme of the great Transatlantic Company; and, as we find that the
Mediterranean has its deep hollows as well as the Atlantic, the
difficulties were proportionate.