traveller: again he caught sight of the bold outlines of Elba and Monte
Cristo, rising out of the Tuscan sea; again, as on the first evening of
these rambles, the white terraces of Bastia reflected the rays of the
setting sun. Soon afterwards the mountain ranges of Capo-Corso were
veiled in darkness, and, as we ran along the shore nothing was visible
but the twinkling lights of the fishermen's huts in the little
_marinas_, to bring to mind those features which had so fascinated us on
our first approach to the island.
Again, farewell to Corsica! Farewell to the twin islands which, like
emeralds set in an enamelled vase, deck the centre of the great
Mediterranean bason, embraced by the coasts of Italy, France, and
Spain,—radiant points midway to Africa, in the great highway to the
East, and partaking the varied character of all these climes. It had
been my fortune not only to ramble through these islands from north to
south, but, in different voyages, to sail round the entire coasts of
both, except some part of the west of Sardinia. I can only wish that
these pages more adequately represented the impressions made under the
opportunities thus enjoyed.
It was again my fortune to approach the lovely bay of Genoa with the
earliest morning light; and, taking leave of my good friends on board
the Monzambano, I landed before breakfast. To vary the route homeward,
instead of crossing the Mont-Cenis, as had been done in frost and snow
at a late season of the year in the former tour, I enjoyed the enviable
contrast of journeying along the _Riviera di Ponente_ from Genoa to
Nice,—that exquisite strip of country between the Apennines and the
Mediterranean, studded with orchards, orange groves, vineyards, and
gardens; with towns, towers, churches, and convents, nestled in the
groves, washed by the sea, or perched high on rocky pinnacles; and all
this encircling the lovely Bay of Genoa, the road being carried _en
corniche_ along its winding shores and round its jutting points. Of this
exquisite scenery no description of mine could convey any adequate idea
to those who have not seen it, and those who have will need little
memento to bring its varied features to their recollection.
Farewell, a long farewell to, perhaps, the loveliest strip of country in
the bright South! The Neapolitan proverb may be applied with equal
justice to the Ligurian, as to the fair Campanian, coast,—_vedere e pói
morire_,—a fitting motto wherewith to conclude the tale of an old man's
wanderings.
Pursuing the journey from Nice to Marseilles, in heat and in dust, the
express train, by Lyons and Paris, conveyed the Rambler to Calais in
about thirty hours, and six more landed him in London.
THE END
LONDON:
PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.
NEW-STREET SQUARE.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] _Dei Costumi dell'Isola di Sardegna, comparate cogli antichissimi
Popoli Orientali, par Antonio Bresciani. D.C.D.G. Napoli, 1850._
[2] Πολλῶν δ' ἀνθροπῶν ἲδεν ἂσεα—καὶ νὰον ἐγνῶ. Od. i. 3.
[3] _Lamartine_. See THE ISLAND EMPIRE, dedicated to Lord Holland.
Bosworth, 1855.
[4] In the same way, Ordericus Vitalis represents William the Conqueror
to have said in his last moments, when reviewing his life, that he
fought against Harold (meaning what English historians call the Battle
of Hastings—a name never given to that battle by the Normans) _in
Epitumo_ (query _Epithymo?_), a word only found in the work of
Ordericus; referring, probably, as his editor remarks, “to the
odoriferous plants found on heaths.”—_Forester's Ordericus Vitalis_,
Bohn's Edition, vol. ii. p. 412.
[5] _Benson's Corsica_, p. 81.
[6] The following biographical sketch is compiled from the works of
Boswell and Benson, and the compendious _Histoire de la Corse_, by M.
Camille Friess.
[7] This appears from the Report of a Committee on the Public Safety
made to the Council General of the Department of Corsica in 1851. It
says: “La société et l'innocence doivent trouver dans la loi une égale
protection; mais l'avantage ne doit pas rester au crime.
“Les acquittements multipliés, et souvent scandaleux, n'ont que trop
démontré que notre législation actuelle renferme trop de chances pour
l'impunité, et ne présente pas toutes les garanties que la société est
en droit de reclamer pour la répression des crimes.
“Elle a pensé qu'en ce qui touche les proportions de la majorité,
_l'institution du jury devrait être modifiée_.”
The proposition was rejected, on the principle which operated when the
difficulty of obtaining convictions in Ireland raised a similar
question; namely, that such an exceptional measure was inexpedient.
“En ce qui touche l'organisation du jury, le Conseil a pensé que cette
proposition ne pouvait être faite que dans un intérêt général pour la
France, et qu'en lui donnant un caractère spécial pour la Corse, elle
resemblerait trop à une mesure d'exception que le Conseil repousse.”
[8] “With all the outrages,” continues Mr. Benson, “of which Galluchio
and his followers are guilty, he is by no means void of moral feeling,
and is quite a polished character when he enters private society, as I
learnt from a French gentleman who had met him at breakfast at the house
of a mutual acquaintance. My friend, when he found himself in such
company, naturally betrayed a little alarm, but Galluchio reassured him,
saying, ‘You and yours have nothing to fear at my hands.’
“I am really afraid to extract from my notes many of the wild adventures
of this Corsican Rob Roy. Not long since, a shepherd, personating him,
violated a female peasant. The chieftain soon obtained information of
the gross outrage that had been committed on his character; and finding
the shepherd, took him before the mayor of Bagniola, and this at a time
when Galluchio had six sentences of death hanging over him. At the
chieftain's instigation, the shepherd was compelled to espouse the poor
girl. Galluchio, after the marriage had been solemnised, said to the
shepherd, ‘Remember that you make a good husband. I shall keep a
watchful eye over your conduct; and should I hear that your wife
receives any maltreatment from you, yourself and your family shall pay
with their lives for your misconduct.’ The man little attended to
Galluchio's warning. The chieftain adhered to his threat, and the
shepherd, with his father and several other members of the same family,
fell victims.”—_Benson's Sketches in Corsica_, pp. 23-25.
[9] _Corsica, by F. Gregorovius._ Chap. x. p. 149. of the translation
published by Longman & Co.
[10] _Novelle Storiche Corse, di F.O. Renucci._ Bastia, 1838.
[11] _Novella VIII. L'Amore e la Religion._ Renucci, p. 43.
[12] Marmocchi. _Géographie Politique de l'Ile de Corse_, p. 117.
[13] In this sanguinary battle, fought in 1768, the Corsicans, under
Pasquale and Clemente Paoli, Murati, and their other chiefs, thrice
repulsed the French army of 15,000 men under Chauvelin, and forced them
to retreat in disorder to Bastia. The garrison of Borgo, a force of 700
men, laid down their arms, and surrendered to the Corsicans.
[14] _Géographie Physique_, p. 57.
[15] _Norway in 1848-1849_, pp. 188, 189. (8vo. Ed., Longman & Co.)
Professor Forbes arrives at nearly the same result from the observations
of Von Buch and others. _Norway and its Glaciers_, pp. 207, &c.
[16] Professor Forbes (_Travels in the Alps_) states the average height
of the snow-line at 8500 feet.
[17] See an Essay by Professor Forbes on Isothermal Lines and
Climatology, in _Johnstone's Physical Atlas_, p. 17.
[18] “Un Arrêt du Conseil du 22 Juin, 1771, avait défendu de planter des
châtaigniers dans aucun terrain de l'île susceptible d'être ensemencé de
blés ou autres grains, ou d'être converti en prairies naturelles ou
artificielles, ou plantés de vignes, d'oliviers, ou de mûriers. Deux ans
après cet arrêt fut revoqué par un autre, où l'on reconnaissait que les
châtaigniers étaient pour les habitants de certains cantons un moyen
d'existence nécessaire dans les temps de disette, et dans tous les temps
un objet de commerce avantageux. Ce dernier arrêt fut rendu sur le
rapport du célèbre économiste Turgot.”—_Robiquet_, quoted by
_Marmocchi_, p. 225.
[19] _Clarke and McArthur's Life of Nelson_, vol. i. pp. 156, &c.
[20] Benson's _Sketches of Corsica_, p. 97.
[21] Lyell's _Elements_, vol. ii. c. xxxi.
[22] _Recherches sur les Ossements fossiles_, t. iv. p. 198.
[23] Vol. ii. c. xxxi.
[24] Chap. XIII.
[25] See Chap. XI.
[26] The article of the Constitutional Act, vesting the sovereignty of
Corsica in the king of Great Britain, runs as follows:—
“Il Monarca, e Rè della Corsica, è sua Maestà Giorgio III., Rè della
Gran-Bretagna, e li de lui Successori, secondo l'ordine della
successione al trono della Gran-Bretagna.”
The oath sworn by the king on accepting the crown and constitution of
Corsica was to the following effect:—
“Io sotto scritto Cavaliere Baronetto, &c., &c., Plenipotenziario di S.
Maestà Britannica, essendo specialmente autorizzato a quest'effetto,
accetto in nome di sua Maestà GIORGIO III., RÈ DELLA GRAN-BRETAGNA, la
corona e la sovranità della Corsica secondo la Costituzione, &c., questo
giorno dicianove Giugno (1704). E giuro in nome di SUA MAESTÀ di
mantenere la libertà del popolo Corso, secondo la Costituzione e la
Legge.
“(Sottoscritto) ELLIOT.”
The oath of the president and deputies:—
“Io giuro per me, ed in nome del popolo Corso che rappresento, di
riconoscere per mio Sovrano e Rè sua Maestà GIORGIO III., RÈ DELLA
GRAN-BRETAGNA, di prestargli fede ed omaggio, secondo la Costituzione,”
&c.
Compared with the original,
PASQUALE DI PAOLI, _Presidente_.
CARLO ANDREA POZZO-DI-BORGO,} _Segretarj._
GIO. ANDREA MUSELLI, }
The oath of allegiance was to be taken by all Corsicans in their
respective communities.—_Benson's Sketches in Corsica_, pp. 193-195.
[27] See before, p. 159.
[28] _Hist. Plant._ lib. 1, cap. 8.
[29] See _Norway in 1848—1849_, 8vo., Longman & Co., pp. 36, 37.
[30] Lambert's _Genus Pinus_, vol. i. p. 18.
[31] Walpole's _Turkey_, p. 236.
[32] Lambert's _Genus Pinus_, vol. ii. p. 28.
[33] “FORÊT D'ASCO EN CORSE.
“La Forêt d'Asco est située dans l'arrondissement de Corte. Elle est
traversée par une rivière au moyen de laquelle on pourrait l'exploiter
avec de grands avantages. Cette forêt, une des plus considérables,
considérée comme forêt particulière, pourrait fournir deux cents
cinquante mille mètres cubes de bois. Elle renferme des arbres de toute
dimension. Il y en est qu'on pouvait faire servir pour la marine comme
matière de bâtiments. Par sa nature grasse ou résineuse, le bois est
employé avec succès pour les chemins de fer, et présente tous les
conditions de solidité et de durée. La plus grande partie de la forêt
renferme les Pins Larix; il y a aussi une grande quantité de Pins
Maritimes. La dimension des arbres maritimes est de 12 à 20 mètres de
hauteur; et celle des Pins Larix de 16 à 40 mètres de hauteur, sur une
circonférence moyenne de trois mètres.”
At the suggestion of one of our foreign ministers, who drew the
attention of Government to the possibility of obtaining supplies of
timber for naval purposes from the forests of Corsica in private hands,
the author, on his return to England, had some communications with
official persons respecting the forests of Signor F——; but the matter
dropped. Should it be thought a subject worth inquiry, with a view to
commercial enterprise, the author will be happy to put any person
applying to him, through his Publishers, in the way of procuring further
information.
[34] There was no appeal to any personal attachment of the Corsicans to
the Bonaparte family, as sprung from among themselves, or to their
gratitude for benefits conferred on them, in the address with which, in
1851, the _Préfet_ urged the Council-General to take part in the general
movement in France for the abrogation of the article in the Constitution
which precluded the advance of Louis Napoleon to supreme power.
“_Marchons_,” he said, “_avec la grande majorité de la France vers ce
grand jour qui doit rendre le calme aux esprits, la confiance aux
intérêts, et la liberté d'action à l'autorité!_”
The resolution, passed by a large majority after a warm debate, was thus
prefaced:—“_Considérant qu'il importe de donner à la France des
institutions que ses besoins reclament, et que ses intérêts moraux et
matêriels exigent: Considérant que le commerce et l'industrie, ces
sources indispensables de l'existence de toute société ne se relèveront
de leur affaissement, et ne reprenderont un nouvel essor, qu'autant que
la constitution leur promettra un avenir plus assuré: Considérant, en
outre, que la souveraineté nationale trouve dans l'article 45 de la
Constitution un obstacle légal à la libre manifestation de sa volonté et
de sa reconnaissance envers le Président actuel de la Republique, qui a
rendu l'ordre et la sécurité au pays par la sagesse et la fermeté de son
gouvernement: renouvelle, à la majorité de quarante-deux voix contre
quatre, le vœu que la Constitution de 1848 soit revisée, et l'article 45
abrogée._”
[35] This family is one of the most ancient in Corsica. Count Pozzo di
Borgo, the celebrated diplomatist, was born at Alata, a village near
Ajaccio. He commenced his public career under the administration of
Pascal Paoli, signed the Anglo-Corsican Constitutional Act as Secretary
of State (see before, p. 173.), and was afterwards President of the
Corsican Parliament. His subsequent career is matter of history.
[36] I find the name spelt indiscriminately Bonaparte and Buonaparte.
Napoleon, when young, wrote it both ways. It is spelt Bonaparte in the
entry of his baptism in the Register of Ajaccio, which was solemnised
(by-the-bye) two years after his birth, the dates being 15 Aug. 1709; 21
July, 1771. His father signed the entry as “Carlo Buonaparte.”
[37] _An Account of Corsica and Journal of a Tour_, by James Boswell, p.
297.
[38] Boswell figured in this costume at the Jubilee Shakespeare Festival
held at Stratford-on-Avon under Garrick's auspices.
[39] _An Account of Corsica and Journal of a Tour_, by James Boswell, p.
302.
[40] See before, p. 15. and 46.
[41] Ridiculously trifling as the origin of this bloody quarrel may
appear, the story is very probably founded on fact. Renucci relates
another scarcely less absurd. Feuds, similar to those mentioned in the
play, had long existed between the Vinconti and Grimaldi families,
inhabitants of the village of Monte d'Olmo, in the _pieve_ of Ampugnano.
Like good Catholics, however, they met sometimes at mass. The church was
sacred and neutral ground; there, at least, the _trêve de Dieu_ might be
supposed to be in force. Thither, on some solemn feast, the villagers,
indiscriminately, bent their steps. Some had already entered the church,
and were engaged in their devotions, many loitered about the door, and
the _piazza_ was crowded. Talking about one thing and another, the
conversation naturally turned to the ceremonies of the day, and a
dispute arose whether the officiating clergy ought to wear the black
hoods of the Confraternity in the processions which formed part of the
service.
Orso Paolo, one of the Vincenti family, gave it as his opinion that they
should wear their surplices, alleging that to be the ancient and fitting
custom.
“No!” cried Ruggero Grimaldi, “they ought to wear the black hoods;”
giving reasons equally authoritative for his view of the question.
The strife waxed warm. The villagers took one side or the other;
“hoods,” and “surplices,” became the party cries. From words they came
to blows, and Orso Paolo, the only man of the Vincenti family present,
being sore pressed in the struggle, rashly drew out a pistol, and
mortally wounded Ruggero Grimaldi's eldest son.
So the story begins, and as it is one of the few in Renucci's
“_Novelle_” that are worth translating, we will give the sequel.
The rage and fury of Grimaldi and his party were now worked up to the
highest pitch. The mass was interrupted, the church deserted, and the
whole village a scene of uproar. Orso Paolo fled as soon as he had fired
the fatal shot, pursued by his enemies, who overtook and surrounded him.
His fate had been sealed on the spot, but that, quick as lightning, he
burst through the throng and darted into a house of which the door stood
open. It was the house of Grimaldi, his deadly foe, but there was no
other chance of escaping instant death. To close and bar the door, and
stand on his defence, was the work of a moment. Corsican houses are
strongholds; Orso Paolo was in possession of the enemy's fortress. He
threatens death to the first assailant, and the boldest recoil. What was
to be done? It was proposed to set fire to the house, but Ruggero's
youngest son, a child of seven or eight years old, had been left asleep
in the house when the family went to church. He would perish in the
flames. At that thought Grimaldi became irresolute. Just at this moment
the eldest son is brought from the church, bleeding to death from his
mortal wound, amidst lamentations and women's shrieks. At that spectacle
Ruggero can no longer contain himself. Frantic with grief, he runs to
set fire to his own house. The voice of nature pleading for his
remaining child is stifled by passion and resentment. The tears and
expostulations of the wretched mother are of no avail; they have no
influence over the mind of the infuriated father.
“What are you doing, cruel Ruggero?” she cried, in the midst of sobs and
groans; “Is it for you to fill up our cup of misery? Will you destroy
the dearest and sweetest of our hopes? One son is gasping his last
breath before our eyes, the other, still in infancy, will perish from
the transports of your rage. Who, then, will be the support of our
miserable old age? Who will defend us from the insults of the powerful?”
“So that Orso Paolo perish, let the world be at an end!” exclaimed
Ruggero. Such is the terrible force of the passions in the human breast.
Ruggero's house is burning, the fire crackles, the flames burst forth,
the sparkles fill the air. Vincenti, involved in smoke and flame, rushes
from place to place, seeking a retreat to prolong his life for a few
moments. All at once he is startled by the wailing cries of a child. He
directs his steps towards it, and discovers, with amazement, the son of
his cruel enemy. Struck with indignation at the father's barbarity, he
suddenly raises his hand to take vengeance on the child of his
relentless adversary. The boy utters a plaintive cry, and stretches its
little hands towards him, trembling and frightened.
“Take courage, my boy, take courage!” said Vincenti, snatching him to
his bosom; “you see a man who is not deaf to the voice of pity. If
Heaven will not protect your innocency, at least you shall die in the
arms of a second father.”
Meanwhile, the fire spreads through every part of the building; nothing
can resist the fury of the devouring flames. Fanned by the wind, they
surge in waves, ever greedy of new food. The roof quivers, the floors
crack, the whole falls with a terrible crash. What chance was there for
Vincenti's escape with life? He had abandoned all hopes.
Ruggero, satiated with vengeance, retires to the house of a relation, to
which his wounded son had been removed. The spectacle of his sufferings,
his imminent danger, and the sobs and lamentations of his inconsolable
wife, awaken in his soul the affections of a father. A faint ray of
reason penetrates his mind, and he perceives all the horrors of his
proceeding. Trouble, remorse, repentance, succeed; his heart is wrung
with anguish, and he attempts his own life. Friends interfere to
restrain him.
At the news of the atrocity committed by the Grimaldi, in firing the
house and leaving their enemy to perish in the ruins, the kinsmen of
Orso Paolo assemble and rush to Monte d'Olmo, threatening vengeance on
the perpetrators. The Grimaldi rally round Ruggero to shield him from
his exasperated enemies. Just then, shouts are raised in the piazza,
mingled with the name of Vincenti, and at intervals with gentler sounds
which speak to the heart of the wife of Ruggero.
She flies to the window, and exclaiming, “Oh heaven! Orso Paolo! My son!
My son! My son!” falls speechless and fainting on the floor. The
spectacle which produced this vivid emotion was that of the noble
Vincenti, who, scorched, and covered with ashes, and pressing the child
firmly to his breast, was hastening on amid the acclamations and
_evvivas_ of the populace. He had taken refuge under an arch of the
staircase, clasping the child firmly in his arms.
Ruggero's wife, recovering from her swoon, runs and throws herself into
the arms of Vincenti, calling him the preserver and father of her
beloved son. Ruggero, full of admiration and gratitude, salutes
Vincenti, with a modest humility, invoking his pardon, and begging his
friendship. Vincenti embraces him, pardons him, and swears eternal
friendship for him. The wounded youth unexpectedly recovers, the two
factions become friends, and the generous Vincenti, loaded with praises
and benedictions, had the happiness to extinguish an inveterate feud
between the two families, and thus restore peace to the community of
Castel d'Acqua.
[42] _Clarke and McArthur's Life of Nelson_, vol. ii. p. 336.
[43] The “Ichneusa,” so called from the ancient name of the island. On a
subsequent visit to Sardinia I had the pleasure of making an agreeable
acquaintance with the officers of the “Ichneusa,” the ship being one of
a little squadron then employed in the service of assisting in the
laying down the submarine telegraph cable between Cape Teulada and the
coast of Algeria, of which I hope to be able to give some account in the
sequel. The engineer of the “Ichneusa” was an Englishman, who was often
ashore at our hotel while his ship lay in the harbour of La Madelena; an
intelligent man, as I have always found the many of his class employed
in the royal steam navy of the Sardinian government. I cannot believe
that the engineers of the steam-ship “Cagliari” had any complicity with
the Genoese conspirators. They worked the ship, no doubt, in compliance
with orders enforced by the Italian desperadoes in possession of her
with stilettoes at their throats; and it is to be regretted that
peremptory measures were not taken by our Government for their release.
We can only conclude that the unfortunate engineers were sacrificed to
political expediency.
[44] _Sketch of the Present State of the Island of Sardinia_, pp.
187-191 (1827). It is but fair to remark, that Captain (now Admiral)
Smyth does not describe any excesses in the festivities he witnessed. We
have reason, however, to believe that they have sadly deteriorated, as
well as the religious instincts of the Sardes, in the thirty years since
they came under Captain Smyth's observation.
[45] The “barancelli” will be noticed hereafter.
[46] Mr. Warre Tyndale's _Island of Sardinia_, vol. i. p. 313, &c.
[47] Cf. Isaiah, i. 8.: “A lodge in a vineyard, and a cottage in a
garden of cucumbers.”
[48] Gen. xxiv. 11, 15.
[49] I Sam. ix. 11.
[50] Odyss. lib. x.
[51] Asphodels were planted by the ancients near burying-places, in
order to supply the manes of the dead with nourishment.
“By those happy souls that dwell
In yellow meads of Asphodel.”—_Pope._
The plant _lilio asphodelus_ belongs to the liliaceous tribe. It
flourishes also in Italy, Sicily, Crete, and Africa, some varieties
bearing white flowers.
[52] αὐτὰρ ἐπεὶ πόσιος καὶ ἐδητύος, &c. HOMER, _passim_.
[53] See the sketch in the next page.
[54] “That certain local causes have through all ages tainted the
atmosphere of Sardinia, may be gathered from the remarks and sarcasms of
a host of early authors. Martial, in mentioning the hour of death,
celebrates salubrious Tibur at the expense of this pestilent isle:
‘Nullo fata loco possis excludere: cum mors
Venerit, in medio Tibure Sardinia est.’
“Cicero, who hated Tigellius, the flattering musical buffoon so well
described by Horace, thus lashes his country in a letter to Fabius
Gallus: ‘Id ego in lucris pono non ferre hominem pestilentiorem putriâ
suâ.’ Again, writing to his brother: ‘Remember,’ says he, ‘though in
perfect health, you are in Sardinia.’ And Pausanias, Cornelius Nepos,
Strabo, Tacitus, Silius Italicus, and Claudian, severally bear testimony
to the current opinion. In later times the terse Dante sings: