by a _col_ leading into the valleys in the south-west of Capo Corso,
and, after rambling through that district, to descend into the upper
valley of the Golo, and pursue it in the direction of Corte, making
Ajaccio our next point. There are good highroads throughout the island,
with regular _diligences_ all the way from Bastia to Bonifaccio; but to
avail ourselves of these, taking up our quarters in the towns and making
excursions in the neighbourhood, was not to our taste. We proposed,
therefore, to hire mules for the expedition, sending our heavier baggage
forward to Ajaccio by _voiture_, and retaining only the indispensables
for a journey of more than 150 miles, in the course of which not a
single decent _albergo_ was to be met with, except at Corte.
The horses in Corsica are diminutive and of an inferior breed, mules
being almost exclusively employed for draught on the great roads, and as
beasts of burthen in the byways and mountain tracks. In Sardinia, on the
contrary, though lying so much further south, the mules disappeared, and
were replaced by hardy and active horses.
We inquired for mules. There are generally to be found hanging about
foreign hotels people ready to undertake anything the traveller may
require, little as they may be competent to fulfil their engagements.
One of this class presented himself, his appearance by no means
prepossessing; but the view he took of our present scheme afforded us
some amusement.
“Are you well acquainted with the roads in Corsica?”
“I have had the honour to conduct _signore forestiere_ throughout the
island from Bastia to Bonifaccio.”
“We shall not travel _en voiture_. We require mules for the baggage and
riding. Can you supply them?”
“_Ça serait possible, mais, à l'improviste, un peu difficile_.”
“It is indispensable, as we mean to cross the mountains and make a
_détour, en route_ to Corte by slow stages, resting in the villages.”
The man's countenance assumed a rueful expression. He had probably been
used to make easy work of it from town to town, and there was evidently
a ludicrous struggle between the temptation of a profitable job and his
disinclination for rugged roads and a spare diet.
“Are _messieurs_ aware that there are no _auberges_ in the villages
offering accommodations fit for them?”
“It is very possible; that does not occasion us any uneasiness.”
“_Les chemins sont affreux._”
“_N'importe_; we have travelled in worse.”
“In some places they are dangerous, absolutely precipitous.”
“We shall walk; _en effet_, it is possible we may walk great part of the
journey.”
That our muleteer could not understand at all: “_la fatigue serait
pénible_;” and with true Corsican indolence, he protested against being
included in that part of our plan.
“Then you can ride.”
So far all objections were dismissed. The banditti had not been
mentioned among the lions in our path, but I imagined they were darkly
shadowed forth in the guide's picture of horrors; so I put the question
to him point blank.
“Are the roads safe in these districts? Are there no bad people
(_mauvais gens_—_cattive genti_) abroad?”
His only reply was a shrug of the shoulders, the foreign substitute for
a Burleigh shake of the head; leaving us to infer that we must not make
too sure of coming off with a whole skin. Knowing well enough that all
apprehensions of that kind were imaginary, we had been only amusing
ourselves with him. If there had been any danger, he seemed just the
fellow to be in league with the brigands.
All topics of intimidation being now exhausted, our muleteer, with the
best grace he could, professed himself ready to comply with our wishes.
The hire demanded for the mules was five francs per day each, exclusive
of their keep; and their return journey was to be paid for at the same
rate. The latter part of the demand was an imposition, but we had only
“Hobson's choice,” and made no difficulties.
When would it be our pleasure to depart? As early in the afternoon as
possible. “It would be late;” and a last effort was made to induce us to
remain at the hotel till the next morning, but we were inexorable.
“Would there be time for us to reach the first village on the road
before dark?”—“We might.”—“Then we will go. Our baggage will be ready by
three o'clock. Be punctual.”
We disliked the man, and determined to discharge him at Corte unless
things turned out better than we expected. As it happened, we were under
his convoy for a much shorter space. We found the Sard _cavallante_, a
much finer race, trudging on foot through all the roughest part of the
tracks, and perching themselves at the top of a much heavier load of
baggage on the pack-horse, when they were tired of walking.
It was a strange “turn out,” that, by unusual exertions, appeared at the
door within an hour of the time appointed. The mules were no bigger than
donkeys.
“_Queste bestie non sono muli; sono dei asini._”
It was vexatious; but we laughed too much to be seriously angry; the
muleteer, too, deprecating our wrath by assuring us that his mules had
first-rate qualities for scrambling up and down precipices. So we took
it all in good part, and, more amused than annoyed, assisted in
contriving to adjust the girths of the English saddles to the poor
beasts' wizened sides; and then, declining a march through Coventry with
such a cavalcade, walked forward, leaving the guide to load the baggage
and follow with the mules.
CHAP. VI.
_Leave Bastia.—The Road.—View of Elba, Pianosa, and
Monte-Cristo.—The_ Littorale.—_An Adventure.—The Stagna di
Biguglia._
The Corsicans are apt to say, that the national roads were the only
benefit Napoleon conferred on his native country. Like all his great
works of construction, they are worthy of his genius. One of these
traverses the whole eastern coast of the island from Bastia, by Cervione
and Porto-Vecchio, to Bonifaccio. Another line branches off near
Vescovato, about ten miles from Bastia, and following the valley of the
Golo, is carried among the mountains to Corte, whence it is continued
through a wild and mountainous district to Ajaccio. Similar engineering
skill is displayed in its continuation on the western side of the
mountains to Sartene, and thence to Bonifaccio, where it also
terminates.
On clearing Bastia, we found ourselves on this high road,—a magnificent
causeway carried nearly in a straight line for many miles through the
plain extending between the sea and the mountains. Orange groves
embowering sheltered nooks in the environs of the town, and hedges of
the Indian fig (_cactus opuntia_), betokened the warmth of this southern
shore; and, as we advanced, the rank growth of vegetation on the flats
realised all we had heard of the teeming richness of the _littorale_.
It was hot walking, and the causeway and flats would have been
monotonous enough but for the glorious views on either hand.
To the left, the Mediterranean was calmly subsiding from the effects of
the gale, its undulations still sparkling in the sunbeams. Far within
the horizon was the group of islands which lend a charm to all this
coast, and are associated with great historical names. There rises Elba,
with the sharp outline of its lofty peaks and dark shores, too narrow
for the mighty spirit which ere long burst the bounds of his Empire
Island. Far away in the southern hemisphere I had visited that other
island, where the chains were riveted too firmly for release, except by
the grave over which I had pondered. Now we stood on the soil that gave
him birth. Why was not this the “Island Empire?” The Allied Sovereigns
were disposed to be magnanimous. It was offered to him; why did he
refuse it? Was it that, with far-sighted policy, he considered Corsica
too bright a gem in the crown of France for him to pluck, without sooner
or later giving umbrage to the Bourbons? May his refusal be cited as a
further proof of the little love he bore for the land of his birth? Or
was it that, when once hurled from the throne of his creation, the
conqueror of kingdoms could not descend to compare one petty island with
another? “At Elba he found the horizon, the sky, the air, the waves of
his childhood; and the history of his island-state, would be to him a
constant lesson of the mutability of human things.”[3]
Napoleon emperor in Corsica! On this spot, with Elba in view, one dwells
for a moment on the idea! Then, indeed, Corsica's long-cherished dreams
of national independence—it was her last chance—would have been
strangely realised. But her fate was sealed. She had sunk to the rank of
an outlying department of France, and so remained; with what results we
may perhaps discover.
Near Elba, and strongly contrasting with its bold outline, lies the
little island of _Pianosa_, the ancient Planosa. Its surface is flat, as
the name indicates. That island, too, has its tale of imperial exile.
The young Agrippa, grandson of Augustus, and heir-presumptive to an
empire wider than that of Napoleon's most ambitious dreams, was banished
to Planosa by his grandfather, at the instance of Livia. Augustus is
said to have visited him there. It was Agrippa's fate to find a grave,
as well as a prison, in the Mediterranean island; the tyrant Tiberius,
with the jealousy of an eastern monarch, having caused his rival to be
strangled on his own accession to the empire.
Soon after Napoleon's arrival in Elba he sent some troops to take
possession of Pianosa; which, ravaged by the Genoese in the thirteenth
century, had never since flourished. The fallen emperor himself could
not help laughing at this mighty expedition, for which thirty of his
guards, some Elban militia, and six pieces of artillery were detailed;
exclaiming, as he gave orders to erect batteries and fire upon any
enemies who might present themselves, “Europe will say that I have
already made a conquest.” Napoleon partially restored the fortifications
of an old castle, which had been bombarded by an English squadron,
landing the marines, in 1809, during the revolutionary war. The island
now belongs, with Elba, to the Grand-Duke of Tuscany.
Further to the south appears the rocky island of Monte-Cristo. This,
too, has its tale of exile, insignificant as it looks except for its
sharply serrated outline, and a worldwide fame. The emperor Diocletian
banished here St. Mamilian, Archbishop of Palermo. A convent was
afterwards founded on the site of the Saint's rude cell. The monks of
Monte-Cristo flourished, as they deserved; the worthy fathers having
founded many hospitals in Tuscany and done much good. Saracen corsairs
carried off the monks; the convent was laid in ruins; and the lone
island remained uninhabited for a long course of years, except by wild
goats. It was in this state when Alexandre Dumas made it the scene of
his hero's successful adventure after his escape from the _Château
d'If_, and adopted it as the title of his popular novel. The island
having been recently purchased and colonised by Mr. Watson Taylor, he
has built a house on it for his own residence.
[Illustration: ISLE OF MONTE-CRISTO.]
It is about nine miles in circumference, and I should judge from its
appearance that the greatest part of the surface is rocky, though not
without green hollows, dells, and verdant slopes. But the olive and the
vine usually thrive, and are largely cultivated, on such spots; and if,
as I should imagine, the natural vegetation and the climate are similar
to those of the other islands in the Tuscan sea with which we are
acquainted, happy may the lord of Monte-Cristo be; for, in the hands of
a wealthy English gentleman, such a spot may be made an earthly
paradise.
After about an hour's walk we halted for the muleteer to come up. A
glorious point of view it was, embracing a wide expanse of the bright
sea, with the islands which had supplied so many striking and pleasant
recollections. Looking backward, the purple mountains of Capo Corso now
appeared massed together in endless variety of outline, with Bastia at
their base, the citadel and white houses glowing in the evening
sunshine. Turning to the right, the eye caught the fine effect of the
meeting of the plain and mountains—the interminable level, stretching
far away till it was lost in distance, and teeming with luxuriant
vegetation, but with only here and there a solitary clump of trees,—and
the long mountain-range line after line rising into peaks above the
gracefully rounded hills that swelled up from the level of the plain.
Woods, orchards, vineyards overspread the lower slopes, the hollows were
buried in thickets of evergreen, and picturesque villages and towers
appeared, though rarely, on the summits of the hills.
[Illustration: MEETING OF MOUNTAIN AND PLAIN, NEAR BASTIA.]
Who would not linger at the sight of Furiani, the most important of
these villages, its ivy-mantled towers crumbling to ruins?—Furiani,
where the Corsicans, in a national assembly, first organised their
insurrection against the Genoese, and elected the prudent and intrepid
Giaffori one of their leaders; with cries of “_Evviva la libertà! evviva
il popolo!_”—Furiani, where, in almost their last struggle, two hundred
Corsicans held the fortifications long after they were a heap of ruins,
and at length cut their way by night to the shore.
The muleteer at last made his appearance with his sorry cavalcade, and
my companion having taken advantage of our halt to make the sketch of
the “Meeting of the mountains and plain,” which was not quite finished,
that we might not lose time, as the sun was descending behind the
mountains, one of the mules was tied to a stake, in order that my friend
might overtake us, while we made the best of our way forward.
I still preferred walking, and pushed on at a pace which suited none of
my company, human or asinine. We had got ahead about a mile, when shouts
from behind opened a scene perfectly ludicrous. There was the little
mule trotting up the road at most unusual speed, impelled by my friend's
shouts and the big stones with which he was pelting the miserable beast.
He too came up at a long trot, rather excited, and calling to the
muleteer, “Catch your mule, Giovanni! I'll have nothing more to do with
the brute.”
“What is it all about?”
It appeared that my friend, having finished his sketch, prepared to
mount and push after us. The mule, however, had a design diametrically
opposed to this. No sooner was it loosed from the stake to which it was
tied, than the poor beast very naturally felt a strong impulse to return
to its stable at Bastia. Could instinct have forewarned it what it
would have to encounter before midnight, the retrograde impulse would
have been still stronger. Every one knows how difficult it is to deal
with a mule when it is in the mood either not to go at all, or to go the
wrong way. Having driven a team of these animals—fine Calabrian mules
they were, equal to the best Spanish—all the way from Naples to Dieppe,
I can boast of some experience in the mulish temperament.
To make matters worse, the English saddle being all too large for its
wizened sides, in spite of all our care in knotting the girths, it
twisted round in the attempt to mount, and my very excellent friend—no
disparagement to his noble horsemanship, for one has no firm seat even
when mounted on a vicious pony—before he could bring the saddle to a
level and gain his equilibrium, was fairly pitched over the side of the
road. Mule having now achieved that glorious _libertà_, the instinctive
aspiration of Corsican existence, whether man, mule, or moufflon,
started forward alone, my friend following, I have no doubt, in rather a
thundering rage.
“At every attempt I made to take the mule by the head”—such was his
account—“he reversed his position, and launched his heels at me with a
viciousness that rendered the enterprise not a little dangerous, for I
do not know anything so funky as an ass's heels. Had it not been for
saving the saddle, mule might have taken himself off to Bastia, or a
worse place, for any trouble I would have taken to stop him.”
It may be supposed that this story was not told or listened to without
shouts of laughter, the muleteer being the only one of the party who was
seriously disconcerted.
“_Andiamo, Giovanni_,” said I, cutting short all discussion, and moved
forward. We had lost time, and the evening was closing in.
“Won't you ride, then?—try the other mule.”
“No, I thank you; I am not in the least fatigued, and have no desire to
be pitched into a bush of prickly cactus, or rolled down the bank of the
causeway.”
“Let us push on, then; if we are belated, we may have worse adventures,
this first day of our rambles in Corsica, before we get to our night's
quarters; and where we are to find them, I am sure I have no idea.”
We walked on at a smart pace, and gradually drew far ahead of Giovanni
and his mules. They were not to be hurried, and if they had been gifted
like Balaam's ass, I imagine they would have agreed with Giovanni in
wishing _l'Inglesi all'Inferno_. I don't know, speaking from
experience, which is worst, riding, leading, or driving a malcontent
mule.
The rays of the setting sun were now faintly gleaming on a vast sheet of
shallow stagnant water, the _Stagna di Biguglia_, between the road and
the sea, from which it is only separated by a low strip of alluvial
soil. It was a solitary, a melancholy scene. A luxuriant growth of reeds
fringes the margin of the lagoon, and heat and moisture combine to throw
up a rank vegetation on its marshy banks. The peasants fly from its
pestiferous exhalations, and nothing is heard or seen but the plash of
the fish in the still waters, the sharp cry of the heron and gull,
wheeling and hovering till they dart on their prey, and some rude
fisherman's boat piled with baskets of eels for the market at Bastia.
This vast sheet of water was formerly open to the sea, forming a noble
harbour, in which floated the galleys of the powerful republics that in
the middle ages disputed the empire of the Mediterranean and the
possession of its islands. On a hill above stood the town of Biguglia,
the capital of the island under the Pisans and Genoese, till in the
fourteenth century Henri della Rocca, with the insurgent Corsicans,
carried it by assault. The Genoese then erected the fortress at Bastia,
which, with the town growing up under its protection, became the chief
seat of their power in the island, and Biguglia fell to decay.
Mariana, a Roman colony, stood on the coast near the lower extremity of
this present lagoon; and Aleria, another still further south, on the
sea-line of the great plain extending for forty miles below Bastia. Our
proposed route led in another direction, and, not to interrupt the
thread of the narrative, a notice of these colonies is reserved for
another opportunity.
We had reached the neighbourhood at which, according to calculation, we
ought to strike off from the high-road towards the mountains. Now, if
ever, a guide was needed; but Giovanni and his mules had fallen far in
the rear. A by-road turned to the right, apparently in the desired
direction. At the angle of the roads we took counsel,—should we venture
to take the by-path, or wait till Giovanni came up?—which involved a
loss of time we could ill spare at that period of the day. A mistake
might be awkward, but we had carefully studied the bearings of the
country on our maps, and deciding to risk it, struck boldly into the
lane. For a short distance it led between inclosures, but presently
opened, and we found ourselves on the boundless waste, with only a
narrow track for our guidance through its mazes. We were in the bush,
the _Macchia_ as the natives call it.
CHAP. VII.
_Evergreen Thickets.—Their remarkable Character.—A fortunate
Rencontre.—Moonlight in the Mountains.—Cross a high
Col.—Corsican Shepherds.—The Vendetta.—Village Quarters._
A slight ascent over a stony bank landed us at once on the verge of the
thickets. It had been browsed by cattle, and scattered myrtle-bushes, of
low growth, were the first objects that gladdened our eyes. A new
botany, a fresh scenery was before us. The change from the littoral,
with its rank vegetation, close atmosphere, and weary length of
interminable causeway, was so sudden, that it took us by surprise.
Presently we were winding through a dense thicket of arbutus,
tree-heaths, alaternus, daphne, lentiscus, blended with myrtles, cystus,
and other aromatic shrubs, massed and mingled in endless variety—the
splendid arbutus, with its white bell-shaped flowers and pendulous
bunches of red and orange berries, most prevailing.
The _Macchia_ is, in fact, a natural shrubbery of exquisite beauty. We
travelled through it, in the two islands, for many hundred miles, and I
feel confident that, to English taste, it forms the unique feature in
Corsican and Sardinian scenery. This sort of underwood prevails also, I
understand, in Elba, and, more or less, in the other islands of the
central Mediterranean basin. We now fully comprehended how it was that,
when sailing along the coast, our attention had been so riveted on the
rich verdure clothing the hills and mountain-sides of Capo Corso,
although at the time we were unable to satisfy ourselves in what its
striking peculiarity consisted.
The air is so perfumed by the aromatic plants, that there was no
exaggeration in Napoleon's language when conversing, at St. Helena, of
the recollections of his youth, he said:
“_La Corse avait mille charmes; tout y était meilleur jusqu'à l'odeur du
sol même. Elle lui eût suffi pour la deviner, les yeux fermés. Il ne
l'avait retrouvée nulle part._”
A trifling occurrence in my own travels gives some faint idea of the
sentiment which dictated this remark. At St. Helena the flora of the
North and South singularly meet. Patches of gorse (_Ulex Europæa_)—that
idol of Linnæus and ornament of our English and Cambrian wastes—grow
freely on the higher grounds, rivalling the purple heath in their golden
bloom, and shrubs of warmer climates in their sweet perfume. Returning
to England after lonely wanderings in the southern hemisphere, I well
remember how the sight and the scent of this rude plant, dear in its
very homeliness, recalled former scenes associated with it. I recollect,
too, that the mettlesome barb which bounded over the downs surrounding
Longwood did not partake of my sympathy for the golden bough I had
plucked. The smooth turf and the yellow furze had no charms for the
exile of St. Helena. Never was the “_lasciate ogni speranza_” more
applicable than to his island-prison, and in his melancholy hours his
thoughts naturally reverted, with a gush of fond tenderness, to the land
of his birth, little as he had shown partiality for it in his hour of
prosperity.
On its picturesque scenes we were now entering, with everything to give
them the highest zest. The autumn rains had refreshed the arid soil,
and the aromatic shrubs filled the air with their richest perfume.
Escaped from cities, and from steam-boats, redolent of far other odours,
and having turned our backs on marsh, and _stagna_, and wearisome
causeway, well strung to our work, and gaining fresh vigour in the
evening breeze, we brushed through the waving thickets with little
thought of Giovanni and his mules, left far behind, and as little
concern whither our path would lead us. It was a beaten track, and must
be our guide to some habitation. A few hours ago we set foot on shore,
and we were already engaged in some sort of adventure—and that, too, in
Corsica, which has an ugly reputation! “_N'importe_; it is our usual
luck; it will turn out right.” But let us push on, for the sun has long
set, and the twilight is fading.
Fortune favoured us, for the enterprise on which we had stumbled turned
out rather a more serious affair than we anticipated. It was getting
dark, when the footprints of a mule on the sandy path attracted our
notice, the fresh marks pointing in the direction we were taking. Soon
we caught sight of a small party winding through the tall shrubbery. The
turning of a zigzag on a slight rocky ascent brought the party full in
view, and we closed with it. There were two girls riding astride on the
same mule, with a stout peasant trudging behind. It was a pleasant
rencontre.
“Good evening, friend. How far is it to the next village?”
“Three hours.”
“What is it called?”
“Olmeta.”
“Is the road good?”
“Mountainous and very steep.”
“Allow us to join your party?”
“By all means.” “_Allons donc_; we shall be late.”