of South America, was shot, at Mendoza, in 1821. He was a Chilian by
birth, and belonged to one of the first families there: he was a man of
considerable abilities. The execution of his two brothers, Antonio and
Luis, in that same city, and other political affairs, had made him vow
eternal enmity to the government of Buenos Ayres; particularly to San
Martin, whom he much disliked. In his vengeance, he had raised the
Indians to assist him. This act lost him many of his friends, who
now viewed him with a kind of horror, as chief of barbarians. He was
betrayed into the hands of his enemies, and immediately put to death,
which, it is almost needless to observe, he underwent with courage, and
was buried, it is said, in the same grave with the brothers he so dearly
loved.
Carrera was in the prime of life, tall, and elegantly formed: his
desperation and courage rank him as one of Lord Byron's heroes, though
not exactly "with one virtue linked to a thousand crimes." His widow
(who has been a fine woman), and infant family, I afterwards saw at
Buenos Ayres. One of the latter, a little girl not five years of age,
was imprudently asked, in my presence, what had become of her father?
"Murdered by the Mendoceans," she quickly replied.
San Martin, having retired from public life, embarked at Buenos Ayres
for France and England, attended by his daughter. His wife, one of the
daughters of the late Señor Escalada, died a short time since in this
city. San Martin is a tall, stout man, about forty-five years of age:
he is said to be rich. He has his detractors; however, they cannot deny
him one great military qualification, that of a determined mind. In his
dispute with Lord Cochrane, the latter had decidedly the best of the
argument, judging from a pamphlet which his lordship has published.
The late General Belgrano, a native of this province, and who
distinguished himself in several actions against the Spaniards, has
a day set apart for funereal rites: it takes place in June, the
anniversary of his death.
In the month of October, 1824, the visit of a New-Zealand chief to
Buenos Ayres, by name Tippahée Cupa, attracted much curiosity; he
arrived in the British ship _Urania_, Captain Reynolds. Tippahée came
alongside this ship in Cook's Straits, with a war canoe filled with
his people, and, in spite of the remonstrances and even force used by
Captain R. refused to quit the vessel, expressing his determination
to proceed to England. He bade his followers an affectionate adieu,
enjoining obedience to his successor during his absence. The _Urania_
sailed for London with her passenger the 8th December, 1824.
Tippahée, when he first arrived in Buenos Ayres, was clothed in an old
red coat, formerly belonging to a London postman. The English paid him
many attentions, inviting him to dine at their houses, and new clothing
him. His behaviour at table was easy and unembarrassed; and, when
requested, he would perform the dances and war songs of New Zealand. He
understood a little of the English language, and spoke a few words of
it; his intelligent manners, and circumspect conduct, rendered him an
universal favourite. On the map he could trace the ship's course from
New Zealand to Lima and Buenos Ayres. He knew an Englishman immediately;
the Spaniards he did not much admire, fancying they viewed him with
contempt, and was glad to get among Englishmen. His age is about forty;
he possesses amazing strength; his tattooed face and appearance always
attracted a crowd after him in Buenos Ayres. On board ship he was found
very useful, doing all sorts of work, but he positively declined to go
aloft. The fate of Captain Thompson, and the crew of the British ship
_Boyd_, ought to bespeak caution in using coercion with these savage
chieftains of New Zealand. In Cruise's book of New Zealand, Tippahee was
shewn a picture of a chief of his country, with which he was greatly
delighted. The object of his journey to England is to solicit arms and
ammunition, to place him upon a par with a rival chief, who possesses
those requisites.
At the dinner given on St. Andrew's day, in December, 1824, by the
Scotch gentlemen, Mr. Parish, the British consul, hinted at the speedy
acknowledgment of the independence of Buenos Ayres by his government.
This intimation was received with great enthusiasm by a numerous
company, among whom were the principal members of government.
The _Camden_ packet took home the treaty between the British and
Buenos-Ayrean governments, with several passengers, including Mr.
Griffiths, one of the vice-consuls, and Mr. Nunez, a Creolian gentleman,
secretary to Mr. Rivadavia. The _Lord Hobart_ packet took home passenger
Mr. M'Crackan, many years a merchant in this country, and a worthy man.
Don Carlos Alvear, and Don Felix Castro, have proceeded to England from
Buenos Ayres: the former makes it on his way to the United States of
North America, to which he is appointed minister. Their mission to
London is supposed to have reference to the loan about negotiating.
The security to British capitalists is surely as good, if not better
than in many other cases in which they have lent money. There are no
restrictions upon interest: the average has been 12 per cent.; but this
is decreasing.
Alvear was formerly a director of Buenos Ayres, and is a very active
man. In the early part of his life, he narrowly escaped destruction,
when going to Spain in one of the Spanish frigates captured, in 1804, by
Captain Graham Moore. The frigate in which he had taken his passage was
one that blew up, and he had only left it prior to the action, to pay a
visit on board another ship: some of his nearest relatives perished in
the explosion.
Should Alvear harbour any dislike to our country, it may be attributed
to this shocking catastrophe; but, I am persuaded, his good sense has,
long ere this, made him view it as one of the accidents inseparable from
the quarrel of nations.
At eight o'clock in the evening of the 21st January, 1825, an express
entered Buenos Ayres with news of the battle of Ayacucho, in Peru.
A victory so decisive and unexpected caused a tumult of joy: people
crowded round the coffee-houses, listening to the different orators
describing the victory; it brought to one's recollection the crowds at
the newspaper offices in London, upon similar occasions. At ten o'clock
at night, a triple salute was fired from the Fort, which was answered by
another from the _Aranzazu_ brig of war, anchored in the inner roads,
and a Brazilian brig of war. Partial illuminations and fire-works took
place the same evening.
On the 22d January, there was a performance at the theatre, when the
national hymn was sung, amidst loud _vivas_ for Bolivar, Sucre, &c.;
and Colonel Ramirez read the official detail to the audience from the
boxes. The theatre was decorated with silks and national emblems, and
illuminated with extra lights: an ode upon the victory was sold at the
doors, and a military band stationed there.
The rejoicings continued for three nights, with bonfires, illuminations,
and military music in the gallery of the Cabildo; the pyramid in the
Plaza was illuminated, and surrounded by transparencies, &c. The people
seemed mad with joy; I could scarcely have believed them capable of such
enthusiasm; and though, perhaps, these ebullitions are not at all times
to be taken as a test of patriotism, yet I am persuaded, the mass of the
people sincerely rejoiced.
The Coffee-house de la Victoria was thronged both inside and out;
and wine and beer were drank in profusion. Various toasts were given,
amongst which was "Religious Toleration." There was abundance of
speechifying, describing the past and the future, with the happiness in
reserve for the inhabitants of the province of the Rio de la Plata. Some
hundreds formed themselves into military array, and, with banners and
music, proceeded through the streets, singing the national hymn, and
shouting opposite the houses of known patriots with loud _vivas_. At the
residence of the British Consul they cheered for England, the King of
England, and liberty. At the American minister's, similar compliments
were bestowed on North America. Colonel Forbes invited them inside,
and pledged them in bumpers of wine. During the whole of the night the
assemblage continued in the streets, with music and singing; yet but few
irregularities took place. Some violent spirits declaimed against the
Brazilians, and, it is said, windows were broken at the Brazilian
Consul's house;[34] but this act was quickly discountenanced by the
rest. In fact, they have nothing here which can put one in mind of a
mob, especially an English mob. The bands that paraded the streets were
composed of the most genteel young men of the town. A young man named
Saravia is looked up to as a sort of leader and manager on these popular
occasions; possessing abundance of wit, activity, a tolerable share of
oratory, and staunch patriotism, Saravia plays no insignificant part in
the politics of Buenos Ayres.
[34] The arrival of a Brazilian frigate _Maria de Gloria_, of
thirty-two guns, Captain Beaurepaire, on 7th March, 1825, caused much
conversation and speculation upon their errand; such as coming to
demand satisfaction for insults offered to their consul, &c. A
burlesque letter appeared in the _Argentina_ newspaper upon the
subject. Considerable animosity exists against the Brazilians, in
consequence of their continuing to occupy the other side of the river.
The frigate departed on 16th March. The officers appeared well-behaved
men.
Public dinners were given at Faunch's Hotel. Eighty Creolian gentlemen
sat down to an entertainment of this description. The dining-room was
decorated with flags of all nations, portraits of Bolivar, Sucre, &c.;
and military music was in attendance, which played "God save the King!"
upon the King of England's health being proposed.[35]
[35] It is amusing to hear the opinion which most foreigners entertain
of his majesty George IV. of Great Britain. They fancy him another Don
Giovanni. I was riding with a Portuguese officer, near Colonia, one
evening in December, 1821, when we heard the discharge of minute guns
fired from H.M.S. _Slaney_, in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, upon
the death of the Queen. I explained to the Portuguese the cause of the
firing: he smiled, and exclaimed, "Is it possible that your libertine
King has ordered a mourning salvo upon such an occasion? surely it
must mean a rejoicing." The people in Colonia, I found, harboured
pretty much the same opinion; so I thought it behoved me, as a good
and loyal subject, to take up the cudgels in defence of his majesty,
of whom I am a great admirer; and I took great pains to impress upon
them, that the chief failings laid to his majesty's charge were
nothing more than those so common with our countrymen, _viz._ a too
enthusiastic devotion at the shrines of Venus and Bacchus.
Another dinner was given by Don Gregorio Heras, the governor, at the
house of the Consulado, in the same style and splendour, and rivalling
even London itself. The bumper toasts were numerous and appropriate.[36]
[36] Among the toasts given at one of the banquets held in honour
of the victory of Ayacucho, Mr. Canning's health was drank in the
following terms:--"_El Sabio Ministro de Inglaterra, el primer
Estadista del mundo, el Honorable George Canning, fiel amigo de la
libertad! la justicia preside en sus deliberaciones; su nombre sera
un motivo de placer para nostros, y para las generaciones que nos
sucedan._" Translation: "The learned Minister of England, the first
Statesman in the world, the Honourable George Canning, the faithful
friend of liberty! justice presides in his deliberations; his name
will be an honour to place amongst our's, and the generations which
succeed us."
Mr. Canning is highly popular in Buenos Ayres, especially with the
Creolian part of the inhabitants: a report that he had resigned
office, created much uneasiness, as he is looked up to as the firmest
friend of South American liberty. The _éclat_ of his ministerial
career throws into the shade the Castlereagh quarrel, and his alleged
desertion of the King in the affair of the Queen. Such appears to be
Mr. Canning's popularity, that his enemies may now "scoff in safety."
A subscription ball and supper was likewise given by some of the Buenos
Ayrean gentlemen, at the Consulado. English and other foreigners
attended in considerable numbers. The _patio_, or court-yard, covered
by an awning, and brilliantly decorated, was devoted to dancing: the
concourse of ladies was very great, who, by their style of dancing and
charming attire, rendered the scene exceedingly fascinating, upon a par
with any such amusements in Europe. The dancing continued all night, and
until nearly seven o'clock on the Sunday morning, not having any Bishop
of London or sanctified gentry to interfere. Unfortunately, the night
proved intensely hot. The supper table was laid out in the grand saloon.
The North-American gentlemen resident in Buenos Ayres, on the 23d
February, 1825, gave a similar entertainment at the same building, the
Consulado, in honour of the victory of Ayacucho, and of Washington's
birth-day. Having more time for preparation, and the evening being cool
it was the most superb affair ever seen in this country; and as regarded
effect, it could hardly be surpassed. The awning was arranged in the
form of a dome; and the walls of the court-yard in which the dance was
held were covered with flags: Buenos Ayrean, Peruvian, Chilian, British,
and American, were most conspicuous. The glare of light falling on these
colours, with the sylph-like movements of the ladies mingling in the
dance, made all appear enchantment, realizing the fables of Eastern
romance. "London cannot beat this!" exclaimed a John Bull just arrived
from England, as he entered the scene of festivity: the graceful
attitudes and appearance of the female part of the company evidently
surprised him. The music was of the first description; Masoni and other
professors presiding. It was the first entertainment given in this
country by the North Americans to the Buenos Ayres public; and they
certainly succeeded to the utmost, reflecting the highest honour upon
their liberality and patriotism. It may be said that "all the world" of
Buenos Ayres was there, and they did not separate until seven o'clock
the next morning. The exterior of the Consulado was illuminated, with
the names of _Washington_, _Bolivar_, _Sucre_.
The substantial part of these different entertainments was superintended
by Faunch, the English hotel keeper, the only man in this country
competent to the undertaking: his arrangements would not disgrace
Messrs. Gunter and Debatt.
The town was illuminated during the three nights of Carnival. In the
Plaza, the names of the South-American heroes blazed from the "Casa de
Policia." The _rompe cabeza_ (or break head), greased masts, and other
sports, took place; two military bands of music playing alternately. The
weather being fine, added to the pleasure; the streets and Plaza were
filled with people. I viewed the scene as an event, perhaps, never
to occur again--I mean as to such a continuance of enthusiasm and
festivals; and, like Noodle and Doodle, "as we never saw the like
before, 'tis fit we make the most of it." I had, too, my forebodings,
and was not quite so sanguine as to the future moral happiness of the
country: for as population increases, its attendants, crime and misery,
follow.
The theatre was open the three nights; the national hymn was sung, the
house decorated, &c. The British consul, with his suite, attended on one
of the nights of Carnival; and on the Sunday, went in state from the
Fort to the Cathedral church. All the public officers were in the
train, including the foreign consuls. It was a walking procession; and
Mr. Poussett, the British vice-consul, walked with Mr. Slacum, the
North-American consul. Some forty or fifty years back, who could have
dreamt of such an event--a British consul joining in a procession with a
consul of her colonies, now independent, to celebrate the independence
of another part of the American continent.
Buenos Ayres illuminations are of a very inferior description, a candle
or two placed in each window; no tasteful transparencies. The house of
Mr. Losana was an exception: he had a transparency of the British and
North American national arms, and an incessant rattling of fire-works
(crackers) from the roof and windows of his mansion.
On the 24th February, a triumphal car was paraded through the streets,
followed by a piece of artillery, and another car containing arms of
all descriptions, the whole preceded by persons bearing torches, and
military music. The grand car was adorned with flags: the British flag I
did not observe amongst them. When the cavalcade reached the Plaza, it
was overtaken by a Pampero wind, with the usual accompaniment of dust,
obscuring the atmosphere, and obliging shops and windows to be instantly
closed. The London pickpockets, during these squalls would find ample
field for their talents.
During the rejoicings for the Ayacucho victory, the _Aranzazu_ brig of
war had the flag of old Spain floating under that of Buenos Ayres.
* * * * *
CONCLUDING REMARKS.--The great want of this country is population; and
until it is increased by an industrious race, agriculture will remain at
its present low ebb; and they will have no sure defence against distant
enemies, powerful neighbours, and the ravages of the Indians. It would
be advantageous to encourage emigration from the over-peopled countries
of Europe, give them protection and an interest in the country;
then Buenos Ayres may reach those high destinies which her sanguine
politicians pretend to see in perspective; but it is not by simple
talking, that this is to be done. England reached her present greatness
by degrees, and by various sacrifices. I am aware that many in Buenos
Ayres view the influx of strangers with jealousy, and talk very highly
of their powerful means, &c. But, setting aside the old adage, that
"boasters do the least," what could protect them, if an alteration
should take place in European politics, and any one of the states of
Europe, without fear of obstruction, should determine to appropriate
the province of Buenos Ayres to itself? The 150,000 men, women, and
children, that now inhabit it, would stand a miserable chance against
the hordes that would be then let loose upon them. Therefore, an
increase of population, having all the rights of citizens, would be an
increase of power; and, in defence of their property and homes, they
would all join heart and hand to drive the spoilers from their adopted
land.
If, however, an attack from any European power be considered an event
too distant or improbable to create any apprehension, Buenos Ayres has a
more immediate danger to provide against, from an enemy whose attacks
are neither problematical nor easily to be parried. This province is
unfortunately exposed to the ravages of the Indians, who murder the
inhabitants, and carry off the cattle, spreading desolation and terror
around. They are frequently within a hundred miles of the city, and in
1823 they approached much nearer. They advance in general, from the S.
or S.E. quarter, in bodies of 3, 4, 5, and 600, armed with spear
and lasso. In using the last, they are almost sure to entrap the
unfortunates within their reach. The forces opposed to them appear
inadequate; the horses, unable to endure the hardships of such a
campaign, have not been found equal to those of the Indians; and
as prisoners taken by them seldom meet with mercy, it has inspired
timidity. When likely to be hard pressed, the Indians disperse in all
directions, flying to their inaccessible retreats. The late Governor
Rodriguez headed several expeditions against them, but without any
marked success.
Four officers of Buenos Ayres, in 1823, were sent with a message to
the Indians, who were detained and murdered. One of them, a Polish
gentleman, named Bullicusque, had been in Napoleon's army, and was much
esteemed. He had some talent at caricature: one which he made of Mr.
Rivadavia attempting to climb the _Rompe Cabeza_, in allusion to the
suppression of the Friars, caused some mirth.
That any portion of the civilized part of South America should, at
this period, be held in terror by Indians, is a disgrace to Spanish
management, after 350 years of possession. The East Indies, and its
hundred millions of people subject to British sway, present rather a
different spectacle: they are in peace, and under the protection of
the laws; the once powerful Mahratta nation, the Pindarees, and other
warlike tribes having been subdued or conciliated within our time. The
suppression of the predatory Indians about this province is a legacy
left by the Spaniards to their late colonists.
The Indians of South America are, in persons and countenance, a striking
contrast to those of Africa. They have long black hair, flat faces,
short thick persons, and complexions of the mulatto cast, without any
thing in their countenances to denote ferocity, judging from those I
have seen in the streets of Buenos Ayres as prisoners. They have a
slight clothing, but it is very filthy. The woolly hair and tawny skin
are not seen amongst them. They are much attached to their _caciques_,
or chiefs.
In the present state of the province, it is a question whether it would
not be sound policy to take into pay 3 or 4000 foreign troops, and, by
placing them in cantonments on the exposed frontiers, awe the Indians,
and give the state a greater respect with other nations.
Every Buenos Ayrean who really loves his country, will view the arrival
of a settler emigrant amongst them more as a benefit than an injury.
Some of my countrymen are of opinion, that the acknowledgment of the
independence of Buenos Ayres by the British government will induce many
to emigrate from home, and thus add to the strength, industry, and
capital of this province. I should rejoice at such an occurrence; our
England, Ireland, and Scotland, can well spare from their too numerous
population.
But, unless a person has some settled object of business, Buenos Ayres
will not prove the most eligible place to speculate upon for employment.
Clerks, unless they possess strong recommendations, or come expressly
engaged, had better not venture upon the voyage: they will, in all
probability, meet with great disappointment. The mercantile houses
have their clerks sent from the firms at home; little chance in that
capacity, therefore, remains for others. Many have returned to England,
finding that to continue here was only making bad worse.
It is professions of the first necessity that succeed. Mechanics are
sure of employment, and with prudence can save money. A journeyman
carpenter may earn, by piece-work, four to five dollars per day; their
regular wages from the English masters are from forty to forty-five
and forty-eight dollars per month. Braziers, blacksmiths, &c. do
well: Englishmen have shops in all those branches. Labourers of all
descriptions are in request.
Farming I do not conceive a profitable concern: labour is high, and the
foreign farmer, from the sort of men he must employ, is continually
exposed to petty thefts, the punishment of which causes great annoyance
and trouble. English labourers generally manage to leave their master
the moment they become useful. Several Englishmen have tried the system
of farming, without much success; it is more adapted to the natives,
and, from what I have heard, they make nothing extraordinary of it. It
is possible that a man with a capital of 800 to 1000_l._ may more than
live; but it ought to be a strong temptation to induce an individual
with that property to leave his country, and to be well assured of the
probable advantages of such an experiment. At the present moment a rapid
fortune is not to be made as a farmer; he must be content to plod on for
years, with great anxiety, and labour to boot. The soil, rich as it is,
requires artificial aid.