July, the anniversary of our expedition under Whitelock. If they have
discontinued it to spare us the mortification of being reminded of such
an event, from my very soul I thank them;--it is a subject that makes
the heart ache to think upon. No one can view the houses of Buenos Ayres
without being struck with the impossibility of taking a town by such
a mode of attack as it was our fate to pursue, against an inflamed
population who were, from the highest to the lowest, our enemies.
Well-informed men know that 5 or 6000 troops, with an adequate
artillery, might have taken the town without scarcely entering it, and,
what is more, by proper precautions might have kept it. The Spaniards
had no troops of any consequence to oppose us; and if all the population
of the town had ventured out of their fastnesses to combat us, the
issue would not have been for one moment doubtful; for, as the lamented
General Ross observed, when inquiring of an American friend of mine, his
prisoner, the force near Baltimore, "I ask you, sir, of the regulars; it
may rain militia."
Our wounded, they tell me, were treated with kindness, especially by the
female part of the population, who had been amongst the most inveterate
of our foes. The heretic Englishman is not looked upon with that horror
now, as it was formerly the fashion to paint him.
In the Annual Almanack, the following paragraph is tacked to the fatal
4th of July:--"Service in St. Domingo church: thanks to our Señora and
St. Rosario, for the triumph, under their protection, in the year 1807,
in having vanquished 12,000 English who attacked us." With Macbeth, I am
ready to exclaim, "May that pernicious hour stand aye accursed in the
calendar!"
That such unlooked-for success should have inflated their imaginations
is to be expected; but, in justice to this kind people, I must mention,
that in English company they never in any way allude to the affair. They
are well aware of the disadvantages we had to encounter, and that our
troops were exposed to an absolute massacre.
I could fill pages with the anecdotes that have been told me of
Beresford, Pack, and other officers; but it is a theme I care not to
dwell upon.
* * * * *
GOVERNMENT, and PUBLIC EVENTS.--The government of Buenos Ayres is an
attempt at republicanism, without its simplicity. However, if the people
are contented, we must not quarrel about forms, or expect an Utopia. I
am no particular friend to republics; I have seen and enjoyed so much
real liberty and happiness under the limited monarchy of my own country,
that I can fancy no other form of government better.
The present governor, Don Gregorio Heras, is a military man: he served
in several campaigns against the Spaniards, and is reported to be a man
of decided character. In his opening speech to the junta, he observed,
that, "being determined to obey the laws himself, he expected every
one else to do the same." Señor Heras is tall and personable, about
forty-five years of age, with rather an expressive countenance. His
title is Governor and Captain-General of the Province of Buenos Ayres.
His prerogatives are very limited.
The governor, when taking the air in his carriage, has an escort of
two dragoons; when on horseback, he is generally accompanied by his
aides-de-camp.
Every public officer is allowed a soldier, who acts both as guard and
servant, and is called the _Ordenanza_. The French Engineer cuts a great
figure, with his soldier riding behind him: our humble Quaker prefers
walking.[30]
[30] One cannot help smiling at the contrast which the two state
engineers of Buenos Ayres present--our Quaker with his broad brim and
plain clothes, and the dashing Frenchman in large cocked hat; the
only point of similarity is in their both wearing large hats, though
differently shaped. Upon the installation of the new governor, the
usual notice was given for public officers to attend the procession in
full uniform; Mr. Bevans did attend--not in military attire, but in
full conventicle dress, as became the man of peace, and looked a
comfortable respectable gentleman. He was seated in a carriage with
a military officer, and, but for that, I could have fancied him a
wealthy miller from Uxbridge, Quaker Town, proceeding to hear the
price of corn. The singularity of Quaker costume attracted much
notice, upon the first arrival of Mr. Bevans: they stared at him in
the streets, but offered no insult; now and then a vagabond boy would
call out "_Lobo!_" Mr. B. is a very good-tempered man.
Señor Garcia fills the office of secretary of state, having succeeded
Mr. Rivadavia.
The Junta, or senate, consists of forty-eight members, who are elected
annually: Señor Don Manuel Pinto is the president. The last election
brought in several of the radical party; one or two of whom are the
Humes of the Buenos-Ayres House of Commons. Since the secession of Mr.
Rivadavia, Señor Gomez leads the ministerial side.
Señor Dorrego, who now distinguishes himself as an opposition speaker,
is a colonel. In 1820, when the town was threatened by some armed
countrymen, called Monteneros, he, on the spur of the moment, collected
porters and carmen, and drove the enemy away, proving himself a dashing
soldier. For a short period he assumed the "imperial purple," until
Rodriguez and his Colorados, in October, 1820, displaced him.
On the evening of the day on which the election for the members of the
Junta terminates, a military band, with the balloon, or globe, preceding
it, and attended by a crowd of young men, parades through the streets.
The band stops opposite the houses of the members, and performs an air
or two; the mob--if there is such a thing as a mob in Buenos Ayres--all
the time shouting, "Viva la Patria!" "The representatives of the people
for ever!" &c. If the Buenos Ayreans were to see our last day of
an election--the thousands of mobility and patriots, hoarse with
bawling--the banners--the rough music of marrow-bones and cleavers,
tuned from counter-tenor to double bass--the sight, I think, would
astonish, if not frighten them.[31]
[31] Sir Murray Maxwell, of H.M.S. _Briton_, lying at Monte Video,
honoured us with a visit, in June, 1824. The last time I saw this
veteran seaman, previous to his arrival here, was under a shower of
cabbage stumps, carrots, turnips, mud, &c. upon the hustings at Covent
Garden, when a candidate to represent Westminster. Sir Murray's
unaffected and amiable manners greatly pleased the British in Buenos
Ayres; and the remembrance of his Chinese exploits rendered him an
object of considerable interest. It was a singular coincidence that
the French Admiral, Rosamel, who had been Sir Murray's prisoner, in
the war with France, should, at the same time, be on a visit to Buenos
Ayres. The French admiral, who, in person, looks a complete John Bull,
attended the theatre, with his officers, in full uniform. His is the
nation for effect. Our officers seldom visit the theatre; and when
they do, it is in plain clothes. The French naval uniform appears more
like a military one--the blue coat, buttoned close to the neck, and
tassels.
The 25th of May, 1810, is the æra of the independence of Buenos Ayres;
the period when, the French armies having overrun Spain, the people
of this city deposed the viceroy, and appointed a junta of nine as
a provisional government. This event is annually commemorated by a
festival of three days. It commences on the evening of the 24th,
when the Plaza is illuminated, by means of a lofty circle, formed of
wood-work, erected round it. At sunrise on the 25th, the national hymn
is sung by boys, &c. opposite the pyramid in the Plaza: to hail the
rising sun is a Peruvian custom. In the day-time, various sports take
place: greased masts are erected, at the summit of which are shawls,
watches, and purses of money; and whoever can reach the top, may take
any one of the above prizes. An English sailor, in 1822, brought down
all the stock in trade, wrapping the shawls about his body, and putting
the watches, money, and other articles, in his pockets and mouth. On his
descent, he was surrounded by soldiers, who took away his booty; and
on Jack making a shew of resistance, they marched him to prison. The
bystanders, however, were indignant at this, and he was soon released,
and allowed to retain one of the prizes. These masts cause great
diversion, as very few succeed in mounting them; and our sailor was
highly applauded. There is also an ingenious machine, called _rompe
cabeza_, or break head, consisting of a pole placed lengthwise on
pivots, elevated from the ground, with a cord on which to rest the feet.
The difficulty is in getting along this pole; in doing which, hundreds
are thrown off: the successful candidate obtains a piece of money.
Military music plays at night in the galleries of the Cabildo; and
fire-balloons and fire-works are let off, the latter emitting their
balls of fire among the people. From the careless manner in which the
fire-works are used by boys in the streets, I am surprised that no
accidents happen.
The theatre is open every night of the holidays, and is always crowded;
the anthem is sung; and they have extra lights, &c. The governor and his
suite attend.
In the College church, on the 25th of May, prizes are distributed to
those young females who have excelled in any particular branch of their
studies. The ladies of the town take great interest in this, and attend
the church in crowds. The organ performs during the ceremony, as well as
other music.
In 1821, the rejoicings went off gloomily, with little or no
preparations.
The arrangements in May, 1822, were the best that I have seen. The
weather--indeed, every thing combined in its favour. Children of both
sexes, dressed in fanciful costume, danced upon a stage in the Plaza,
and at the theatre, and were drawn through the streets upon ornamental
cars, by persons disguised as lions, tigers, and leopards. The music of
the Plaza dance even now dwells upon my mind, producing remembrances I
can scarcely account for. Its soft and pretty music ought to make it a
standard dance for the 25th May. In this May, of 1822, I was delighted,
and, for the moment, relieved from worldly cares. I strayed, at evening,
about the Plaza: the mimic angels I could almost fancy real; and the
sweet dark-eyed girls that every moment met my eye were, to me, Houris
of Mahomet's Paradise. The illusion was complete: but, alas! like all
other earthly pleasures, it has passed away--would that I could add, as
a "dream slightly remembered." A troop of equestrians rode through the
streets, dressed like Astley's horsemen, and masqued: they proceeded to
the Alameda, and fixing a small ring to a cord in the middle, they each
endeavoured to pull it down at full gallop.
In 1823, the weather was cold and wet. The Quaker made an effort to
light the Police-Office with gas; it only partially succeeded: the words
_Viva la Patria_ blazed out at intervals. Considering the obstacles, I
am astonished he did so much.
In 1824, the weather was fine; but, to me, the affair appeared
altogether inferior to 1822. There was no dancing, or Astley's troop;
the fire-works were something better, and were judiciously placed on the
arch, instead of the Cathedral, as heretofore.
On the 25th of May, the governor and the public officers, with the
dignitaries of the church, walk in state to the Cathedral church, at
which there is a solemn service.
In 1824, the new governor, Don Gregorio Heras, gave a grand dinner at
the Fort: 120 sat down, including the American minister, the English
consul and two vice-consuls, and many foreigners. The dessert was
superb; not like those we have, but chiefly of sweetmeats; sugar
castles, fortifications, and other designs made up of this latter
article.
Velarde gave a very comic description of the Fiestas, at the theatre, in
blank verse, in the character of a Gaucho, seated with his companions
round a fire, smoking, to whom he is relating the events of the day,
and, among the rest, of the English sailor climbing the mast like a cat.
This actor displays abilities of no ordinary merit in this style of
acting.
These four days passed without a single robbery, or even the dread of
such an event. Few cities in Europe can boast as much, with a population
of 60,000 persons.
It is said, that the diversions of the 25th of May, from the expense,
and uncertainty of the weather, are to be discontinued, or at least
postponed to another part of the year. I hope they are not to be done
away with. Some few hours may surely be taken from the cares of life,
and devoted to enjoyment, in spite of the heartless censure of the few.
It is not my intention to enter into an historical detail of the
political events that have agitated this country since the declaration
of its independence: they would alone occupy more space than I have
proposed to myself for these Remarks. The notice of a few events,
however, connected with public affairs, since my residence in this
city, and of public men, may not be uninteresting in this place.
The year 1820, in which I arrived, was remarkable for its frequent
political changes. Scarcely any of the several chiefs, who rapidly
succeeded each other at the head of government, retained their power
more than a few weeks, till Don Martin Rodriguez, at the head of his
Colorados,[32] or Red Men, (so named from the colour of their _ponchos_,
or cloaks), having succeeded in an attack upon the town, put down the
Civicas, or militia, who, although appointed to preserve the peace of
the city, by their frequent insurrections, kept it in a constant state
of agitation. A battle was fought in the streets of the town, and many
lives were lost. He was finally confirmed Governor, on the 6th October,
1820, and continued in office for three years, the period prescribed
by law. Since that time the government has assumed an appearance of
stability, and improvements have taken place in every department of the
administration.
[32] These Colorados are all cavalry. I saw them drawn up in the
Plaza; and, whilst gazing at the singularity of their appearance, one
of them claimed me a countryman of his. He spoke to me in English, and
told me he had been fourteen years in the country. He was, probably,
one of Beresford's men; many of whom, as well as deserters from
Whitelock's army, are to be found in the province. Some of them,
from having been so long accustomed to the Spanish language, have
absolutely forgotten their own; of this I have known several
instances.
These British deserters find various employments. Hearing an Irish
cobler, one day, in a miserable stall, bewailing his sad lot, and
regretting that he had left the army; I asked him what army? "By
Jasus," said he, one of "Whitelock's regiment; and if I was in it
now, I should have a comfortable pension by this time."--"Why did you
leave it?"--"They embarked without me."--"Or, in other words, you
deserted."--"By the powers! you have hit it; and a bad day's job I
made of it," said he.
Don Martin Rodriguez is a tall, well-looking man, and a good soldier.
Without the possession of any very shining abilities, he has done more
for the benefit of the state than any of his predecessors, and retired
from office with the esteem of all parties. He was succeeded by Don
Gregorio Heras, the present governor, in April, 1824.
During his government, Rodriguez owed much to the able administration
of Don Bernadino Rivadavia, who may be considered the William Pitt of
Buenos Ayres. He entered office, as minister, in 1821, and left it with
Señor Rodriguez; the law requiring that ministers should resign, or be
re-elected, with the new governor. Mr. R. was strenuously entreated to
continue in his situation; but he steadily refused, and his friends
deplored the determination. One of the first acts of his administration
was to annihilate privateering.[33] By him the revenue was simplified
and increased; public plunderers could no longer escape detection; and
his firmness awed the disturbers of public peace, and made the province
respected by foreigners. In the suppression of the monasteries, he
encountered every species of obloquy from a certain class. Now that
passion has in some degree subsided, his opponents, and even the
priesthood, must allow, that he had no other motive but his country's
good; and they cannot deny him the merit of disinterestedness and
unshaken resolution. Strangers of all descriptions are grateful to
him for the protection and attention he has shewn them, and the
encouragement given to their pursuits, which add to the capital and
prosperity of the country. The greatest eulogium that can be bestowed
upon Mr. Rivadavia's government is a comparison of Buenos Ayres in 1821
and 1824, the periods when he accepted and when he retired from office.
His administration forms an æra in the political annals of the state,
and will rank him as an able--nay, more--an honest minister. His system,
it is said, will be strictly followed by his successors: I trust it may,
for the good of their country.
[33] A great deal of money was made and lost by speculators, at the
time privateering was allowed in Buenos Ayres. The last vessel that
sailed was the _Heroine_ (formerly the French _Braak_), commanded by a
North American, named Mason, and which was captured by the Portuguese
frigate _Perola_. Mason has been confined at Lisbon, more than two
years. His wife, an English lady, and large family, reside in Buenos
Ayres.
Mr. Rivadavia was bred to the law. He has been represented to me as a
man of strong passions, with nothing of the courtier in his manners,
which, at times, approach to abruptness. The three years he was in
office have proved that he possesses first rate talents as a statesman.
Political as well as personal enemies every man must expect, in a
situation like his; and though such a consideration might not have
intimidated him from again accepting office, very possibly it might have
had some influence, conceiving, that, as the foundation was laid for a
good system of government, they should not reproach him with clinging to
office for the sake of power and emolument.
Mr. Rivadavia has visited both France and England in a public capacity,
and has again sailed for Europe, in the _Walsingham_ packet, in part
to superintend the education of his son, who is now, I believe, in the
college of Stonyhurst. He will carry with him a distinguished name;
before, he was in a manner unknown. He speaks a little English, and very
good French.
In person, Mr. Rivadavia has some peculiarities; and were he much before
the public in London, I fear, he would not long escape the wicked
pencils of our caricaturists: should it be so, he cannot complain; he
will find the king, and the first people in the realm, not spared by
them. His figure is short and thick, with a dark complexion; and he
generally walks with one arm behind him. He wears black clothes, with
tight pantaloons, displaying Herculean limbs.
As an orator, Mr. Rivadavia is not very imposing; he has a deep sonorous
voice, and is eloquent--but not exactly a Cicero.
In October, 1820, two persons were shot in the Plaza, near the Fort,
for state offences connected with the revolution of the period--one a
military officer, and the other a drum-major. The former was executed
in a _poncho_, in which disguise he was taken. They were conducted from
the Fort in heavy irons, each holding a small cross, and accompanied
by friars on each side, to whom the criminals eagerly listened. At the
fatal spot their sentence was read: they were placed on seats, and tied;
the priests slowly withdrew, still whispering comfort to the unhappy
men; an officer waved his handkerchief--and they were no more. The band
struck up the tune of "The Downfall of Paris," as the troops marched
past the bodies. A number of females witnessed the appalling sight from
the neighbouring balconies.
On the night or morning of the 19th March, 1823, an attempt was made at
another revolution, upon the plea that the religion of the country was
in danger. Gregorio Taglé, a lawyer, and a man of some talent, was
the chief of this conspiracy: he had been formerly one of the state
ministers; and, after its failure, he escaped to Colonia. The
disturbance began by some hundreds of Gauchos from the country galloping
into the town, shouting "_Viva la religion!_" &c. &c. They overpowered
the guard at the Cabildo, released the prisoners, and began to toll the
bell; and at that hour (two o'clock in the morning) it did certainly
frighten the town "from its strict propriety." In the Plaza they were
received by a discharge of musquetry from a few troops, who had advanced
out of the Fort, and who, after killing and wounding several, put the
rest to the rout. Garcia, a Colonel, implicated in the plot, was shot a
few days afterwards: he met his fate with firmness.
This execution was followed by two more, those of Colonel Peralto
and Urien. The latter had been an officer both in the Buenos-Ayrean
and Peruvian services, and now suffered for a participation in the
conspiracy, and a murder committed some years ago. He was in confinement
at the Cabildo, awaiting his sentence for the latter offence, and being
a relation of Mr. Rivadavia, interest was making to save him, when
the conspirators released him. Strict search was made for the escaped
criminal; and in a few days, he surrendered himself, upon a promise of
pardon on condition of his making discoveries of those concerned in the
late conspiracy. Several were arrested upon his depositions; amongst
them, an English shopkeeper named Hargreaves, whom he accused of selling
fire-arms to the rioters at one and two in the morning of the 19th
March. An examination proved that all the accusations were false: the
accused were released, and Urien desired to prepare for death.
Urien was well known in the coffee-houses of Buenos Ayres; he was much
in debt, and some of his creditors were Englishmen. The murder of which
he was convicted, was committed in conjunction with a female, the wife
of the murdered man, and the body had been cut in pieces, and buried at
different times. Since the murder, he had been in Peru, and had also
lived in Buenos Ayres, unsuspicious of discovery. Having a fine person
and countenance, he was a favourite with the ladies, and a complete "man
upon town."
The execution of Urien and Colonel Peralto took place between ten and
eleven o'clock in the morning: they were conducted from the Cabildo
prison, ironed, and under a strong guard. They moved slowly along the
Plazas to the appointed spot, near the Fort, where they were both
uncovered, each holding a cross, and attended by priests: the person
of Urien attracted much attention, on account of his tall figure, and
dark expressive countenance. He was dressed in a silk _levita_, or
frock-coat, and walked unsupported, and with great firmness; a smile now
and then appeared upon his face, as he conversed with the priests. He
would have gained universal sympathy, but for his great crimes; as it
was, disgust was mingled with pity, that such a man should be so guilty.
The other wretched man, Peralta, covered with a large great coat, with
his head bound up, and supported by his friends and the priests, seemed
the picture of misery. At the arch which parts the Plazas, the sentence
was read to the prisoners; and again near the fatal place, at which
it was some time ere they arrived, from the slowness with which the
procession moved. Near the Fort, Urien eyed the artillerymen at their
guns, upon the ramparts: his resolution appeared to falter, and he
apparently wished to prolong the time at the place of execution by
conversation with those about him. At length he was seated. His
companion, during this delay, had taken his seat, and, at this last
trying moment, was more composed than Urien. The soldiers fired: Peralta
fell dead; but Urien still kept his seat, appearing only slightly
wounded. The drums, which began to beat, were stopped, and a horrible
scene ensued. Several soldiers placed their musquets at the head of
Urien: they missed fire, one after the other; at last, one exploded,
which, from the report it made, could only have been slightly charged.
The poor wretch fell upon the ground, but was not dead; and he
endeavoured to raise himself up upon his elbow. Other musquets were
discharged, and Urien moved no more. The feelings of the spectators,
during this appalling spectacle, may well be conceived. The hearse and
coffin were in attendance; and, after the troops had passed, the bodies
were placed in them, and taken for interment. A great concourse attended
the execution. Peralta was much pitied, having borne an excellent
character. The ceremony altogether was terrible; and the part in which
the magistrate reads the sentence appears singular to a stranger: a man
repeats every word after him in a loud voice; he is selected, I presume,
for this qualification.