made; and from the high price of hides, and the continual demand for
them, this affords every prospect of advantage.
Emigrants will not find the conveniences they have at home, but as many
comforts as they can possibly expect in a foreign land, including the
favourable climate.
An English female, upon her first arrival in this country would not find
herself very comfortable; it must take some time to reconcile her to
the loss of home, dress, mode of living--every thing so different; the
only alleviation is in the society of her country folks, and the kind
behaviour of the people, which will soon soften those feelings, and
when somewhat conversant in the language, she would become attached to
Spanish society, from whom she may be assured of receiving the most
delicate attentions that hospitality can prompt.
A person will not be long in Buenos Ayres without picking up
acquaintances with its inhabitants; amongst whom are some very
intelligent young men. I have sometimes thought it would give me
pleasure to conduct one of them to England, to be--not exactly a Mentor
(needing that myself), but a sort of escort to him in the modern
Babylon, London; to explain its many varieties, from the mansions of the
nobility, down to the _fondas_ of St. Giles's, where plates, knives, and
forks, are chained to the tables, to prevent the customers walking off
with them.
Common report asserts, that a strong French faction exists in Buenos
Ayres. I will not pretend to offer an opinion upon this. Three years
ago, I thought there was a decided leaning towards France: but I do not
think there is so much now. If it were only for the sake of consistency,
they must be ashamed of French politics, and the war in Spain,
undertaken, as "an experiment to try the fidelity of the French army,"
according to Monsieur Chateaubriand, who asserted that a few months
campaigning had done more good for France than years of peace. That a
portion of the inhabitants may be attached to the French, is probable;
their manners and religion assimilate more than ours. An Englishman
is looked upon as a strange creature, different from the rest of the
world. Other nations have not that characteristic of country (excepting
the North Americans): a Frenchman, Italian, &c. mixes in the crowd as
one of the country in which he resides, and is scarcely recognized as a
foreigner; but nature seems to have placed her peculiar mark upon us,
and, in conjunction with our law against expatriation, seems to assert,
that "once an Englishman, always an Englishman." It would appear that
strangers can almost discover us blindfold: often, on the darkest night,
I have been accosted by boys and others as an Englishman.
The old Spanish part of the population, I dare say, dislike, and can
never forgive us; we are ever the subject of their sneering remarks, and
must expect to be so. That we can act from principles of pure honour,
appears to them impossible; and they affect to trace self-interest at
the bottom of all our professions, particularly as to the proceedings
of the British government toward South America, which have gained us so
much popularity with those states; and given British politics the lead,
which indeed never stood more high in Buenos Ayres than at the present
moment.
Englishmen are aware that very few like them as a nation, however they
may respect them as individuals; and should our country be once on the
wane, there would be plenty of helping hands to press us further down.
It requires no extraordinary sagacity to account for this animosity.
I am certain, however, we have numerous friends in Buenos Ayres. The
rising generation have, in a manner, grown up with us. Time will wear
away antiquated prejudices, and it will be seen that the calumnies which
have been heaped upon our nation for ages, have not been deserved. Many
fine young Englishmen reside in Buenos Ayres in mercantile and other
employments: this portion associate a great deal with the inhabitants,
with whom they have formed a perfect intimacy.
I do not expect emigration from England yet, to any great extent. The
English people, in general, have a repugnance to live under foreign
laws, and where the influence of a religion prevails which from
childhood they have been taught to believe is inimical to their own.
But, waving these considerations, they would have little else to
complain of. Here is a rich soil, without any dread of sands and
blights, as at the Cape of Good Hope; and if they cannot amass
a fortune, they are sure to live, and that comfortably. Of the
kind-hearted inhabitants I have already spoken: my countrymen may be
assured, there are no foreigners with whom he will find himself so much
at home as with the Buenos Ayreans. Therefore, I again repeat, that
farmers with a small capital may gain a livelihood--perhaps, more;
labourers are sure of constant employment; and mechanics are ever
in request. The climate is congenial; the government are their sure
protectors; and the people, in spite of every prejudice, esteem our
nation. The age of revolutions, I think, is past; and, during their
utmost violence, strangers were never molested. British vessels from
Liverpool are continually arriving: and the cost of the passage is
moderate.
Whenever fate conducts me from this country, I shall quit it with regret
for any other place but my native home, and must always feel the most
sincere esteem and gratitude towards the fine and generous people
amongst whom I have so long resided, and where I have enjoyed happiness
I little thought to experience out of Great Britain. I came to Buenos
Ayres somewhat prejudiced, expecting to observe illiberality and
bigotry, in place of the many amiable qualities of which I have found
them possessed; and although I am as complete an home-sick Englishman as
ever quitted his paternal shores, yet such is my attachment to Buenos
Ayres, that I look up to it as my second home, and feel the deepest
interest in its welfare.
COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO.
I visited Colonia del Sacramento for a short period. It lies east of
Buenos Ayres, distant across the river thirty miles, and may sometimes
be seen from the latter city: when this is the case, it denotes a change
of weather to wind or rain.
Colonia is fortified both on the land and sea side: heavy guns are
mounted on the lines, and it is capable of making a good defence. It is
now in the possession of the Brazilian government. In December, 1821,
during my abode there, it was occupied by the Portuguese, and 600
European troops constituted the garrison; they were all light infantry,
and had served in the Peninsular war. I should suppose them a "crack
regiment," for in appearance they fully equalled British troops: the
uniform, brown jackets with black facings, and caps similar to our's.
Most of the officers wore orders for services in Europe. The music
consisted of bugle trumpets. Parade every morning: officers marched
to their guard, colours trooped, and all the evolutions of the parade
in St. James's Park. On Sundays they mustered in their best uniform,
governor attending, for church. I could not but express my admiration,
at the fine order and discipline of the troops, to a Portuguese officer.
He answered, that whatever improvement had taken place, was entirely
owing to British example and instruction; that we had found them a mob,
and transformed them to decent soldiers. It will be long ere Spain can
put forth such troops.
The officers, in Colonia, were good-looking gentlemanly men, speaking a
little French and English, picked up in campaigning. Many of them had
married, and preferred remaining in the country, when the regiment was
ordered away, turning farmers, cattle dealers, &c.
The governor (Rodriguez) is a veteran of the Peninsula. Strangers, upon
their arrival, are introduced to him. I found him working in his garden,
at a cottage, near the town: he received me with great civility. How
strangely the Spanish and Portuguese character has been represented
to us at home! I cannot discover that assumption of dignity and pride
attributed to them; on the contrary, they are of very amiable manners.
In Colonia, the soldiers were much esteemed, and industrious men. A
comparison with those of Buenos Ayres would be invidious.
The officers must have had a monotonous life, in so dull a place as
Colonia. They were great favourites with the ladies; and, in riding
about the country, visiting, and dancing, whiled away their spare time.
The soldiers were quartered in different houses: their behaviour
reminded me of the domestic character of our troops; I observed them
nursing children, and busily employed about the house, with nothing of
that swaggering consequence so usual with foreign troops. The Duke of
Wellington discovered and rightly appreciated their merits, which have
brought such renown upon the military annals of Portugal.
The world are accustomed to speak very slightingly of the Portuguese
character as a nation; and when the deeds in the Peninsula have been
mentioned, it has been said, "they have fought well, because British
bayonets were at their backs." Those same British have done the
Portuguese army the justice their bravery deserves; and the pitiful
sneers of their calumniatos will fall harmless.
Our saucy sailors, too, in the plenitude of their impudence, must have
their joke at the Portuguese: I remember, upon my first trip to sea, I
was called from the cabin to look at a Portuguese man-of-war, which,
they told me, had just hove in sight: I did look, but no vessel was to
be seen. At last, the sailors pointed out to me a nautilus, with all
sail set, skimming along the water which they asserted, was a Portuguese
ship of the line.
Colonia has about 800 inhabitants. There are very few good houses: the
greater part may be called huts, and are occupied by a mixture of South
Americans, old Spaniards, Portuguese, and some half-dozen of Englishmen
married to South-American ladies.
The governor's house is a very ordinary building. The streets are
irregular; and the town altogether presents a most miserable appearance.
The town cannot afford a tavern; there is only a paltry billiard-room,
in a public house, to which the Portuguese officers resorted.
The inhabitants of Colonia are very hospitable. I attended a birth-day
feast, at one of their _quintas_; forty persons sat down to a dinner
of beef, fowls, turkey, pastry, &c. The wine went merrily round, under
a continual call for _bompas_ (bumpers); and after dinner, there was
dancing. Some Portuguese officers were present, with their young Spanish
wives.
At those dinner parties, they have a practice of throwing bits of bread
at each other; and I felt some degree of surprise at first receiving
those bread shots.
The captain of the port, Mr. Short, is an Englishman, belonging to the
Portuguese navy, and is very attentive to his countrymen, whom business
may call there: the same may be said of Mr. Bridgman, who has been many
years resident in the town.
Colonia has but little trade. Small craft from Monte Video and Buenos
Ayres, bound up the river to Paysan Lee, &c. and sometimes British and
other vessels call in, to ship produce. A vessel can anchor within a
quarter of a mile from the shore, in 3½ fathom water. The harbour is
good, considering the bad anchorage of this river. There is a constant
communication overland with Monte Video; the distance is about 150
miles. To load vessels of any burthen, craft are sent from Buenos Ayres.
There is a dangerous reef near the harbour, on which a British brig (the
_Euxine_) was wrecked, in March, 1824.
Our ships of war, stationed in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, send
their boats for brush-wood to the Island of St. Gabriel, near Colonia.
The church is a conspicuous land-mark, and looks very much like an
English country church, in its exterior; the interior has nothing of
splendour to boast--no organ, or decorations; the service is confided to
some poor old priests, who are fast approaching their earthly end.
If Colonia in itself has nothing attractive, the country around makes
ample amends, being interspersed with small hills, dales, lakes, and
agreeable rides--affording a fine field to the sportsman. The prospect
of the river is uninterrupted, assuming the appearance of a perfect sea.
Here is every facility for bathing: the water is clear and bracing. This
side of the river, in point of scenery, is far beyond the Buenos Ayrean:
an Englishman, however, regards it with almost equal indifference. If
any particular view is pointed out, Sussex, Kent, Devonshire, crowd
upon his thoughts; in comparison with which, the flat coast and few
diminutive hills of this part of South America appear insignificant.
In the environs of Colonia are many comfortable _quintas_, or
farm-houses. Provisions are dearer than in Buenos Ayres, and the beef
is not so good.
In the neighbourhood are found the birds called cardinals, from having
a tuft of feathers upon their heads shaped like a cardinal's hat. Their
plumage is pretty; and they sing. Care is required to convey them safe
to Europe.
The air plant is a singular production of this place; it grows on
bushes, and will thrive in the open air, without the aid of mould.
I think it possible, a few years hence, that Colonia may start from its
present inferiority, and take a station commensurate with the advantages
it possesses as a port in the river Plate. It was occupied by a division
of our army in 1807. History reminds us of our countryman, Penrose, and
the mishaps he encountered here in 1762.
Lately, the church and several houses have been damaged, and some lives
lost, by the blowing up of a magazine of gunpowder.
The occupation of the Banda Oriental by the Portuguese, and now by the
Brazilians, has been the subject of a strong remonstrance from the
government of Buenos Ayres. The original plea of the disturbed state of
the country, and danger thereby to the neighbouring Brazilian provinces,
no longer existing, Don Valentin Gomez[37] was sent to Rio Janeiro, but
returned without accomplishing his object. The Brazilian flag still
waves, and is likely to do so, from the fortresses of Monte Video,
Colonia, Maldonado, and the adjacent country. I am not aware upon
what arguments the Brazilians determine to keep their hold, excepting
possibly that of "might constituting right." Buenos Ayres would seem
its more natural protector. A portion of the inhabitants, it is likely,
prefer that the country should remain under its present masters,
satisfied with the manner in which authority has been exercised, and
dreading revolutions.
[37] Senor Don Valentin Gomez belongs to the clergy: he has talents
and eloquence, and is withal a handsome man, with a face as rosy as an
English fox-hunter. As he was returning from Rio, in the British brig
_Agenoria_, the brig struck upon the English bank in the river Plate,
on the 11th March, 1824: there were eleven passengers on board.
The captain left the vessel to get assistance, which was promptly
dispatched from Buenos Ayres; but before any thing effectual could be
done, eleven persons had quitted the wreck, on four rafts: one was
picked up by a Portuguese vessel, containing five persons, who, after
enduring great misery, arrived at Rio Janeiro; of the other three
no tidings have since been heard. Those that remained on the wreck,
amongst whom was Mr. Gomez, and Mr. George Brittain, an Englishman,
were preserved: they, too, encountered great privations. This
misfortune caused great anxiety in Buenos Ayres, from the extensive
connections of Senor Gomez, and his secretary, Lucca, a young man of
considerable acquirements, and who was one that perished. The brig of
war, in the outer roads, was ordered to signalize, should she gain
information from vessels arriving; and, on doing so, the Fort fired a
gun, and hoisted a flag; crowds went to the beach. Upon Padre Gomez's
arrival, he was met by relations and friends, the females crying
for joy. The sufferings of the Padre had not blanched the roses in
his cheeks: he came on shore as blooming as ever. Blame has been
attributed to the captain: he had often navigated this river, and,
perhaps, was too confident. A Danish and American ship passed at the
time of the wreck, and have been much censured for not rendering
assistance.
The old Spanish part of the population bear no particular love to the
Patriots: of the two, it is doubtful which they hate most, the Patriots
or the English.
Buenos Ayres would find it difficult to dislodge the Brazilians by
force, though there are advocates for this measure. Prudence, I trust,
will guide their resolves; and if injustice has been perpetrated, let
revenge be deferred until it can be securely taken. The separation,
after centuries of fellowship, and falling under foreign dominion, must
be galling.
If Buenos Ayres held the Banda Oriental, she would be a powerful state,
which it is the policy of the court of Rio de Janeiro to prevent. Its
fortresses, fine climate and country, improving population, influx of
emigrants, under a strong government, would make even the empire of
Brazil to look about them. However, such an event is distant; every
thing leads me to think its present occupants will long keep possession.
APPENDIX.
RULES of the PORT of Buenos Ayres; DUES to be paid by Foreign and
National Vessels; PENALTIES to which those are subject who violate
the Laws of the Police, or who attempt to destroy in any manner
the line of Buoys established on the Ortiz and Chico Banks, Mount
Santiago, and Point Lara, or those which the Government may
hereafter establish on other points of the river for the safety
of navigators.
RULES OF THE PORT.
Article 1. The guard ship, in the inner roads, on observing a vessel
anchor in the outer roads, will hoist a red flag at the mizen mast, as
a signal to the captain of the vessel which has arrived, to proceed
towards the shore in his boat.
2. The said captain, taking with him his papers, will go on board the
guard ship.
3. On the arrival of the boat, the commandant of the guard ship will
desire her to anchor astern, and will then hoist a yellow flag, for the
health boat to come and pass the visit.
4. The commandant of the guard ship must not permit any communication
between his crew and those of the boat, until after the health visit.
5. The captain will be interrogated by the health and war visit; and if
he does not answer truly, he will be tried by the laws of the country.
6. If the weather will not permit the health-boat to pass the visit, the
commandant of the guard-ship will wait till they make signals from the
shore. Those signals will generally be, to permit the boat of the vessel
which has arrived to disembark on the quay. If, nevertheless, the
weather be too boisterous, and the boat cannot come on shore, the
commandant of the guard-ship may permit the crew to go on board him, and
then the guard-ship herself will be considered in a state of quarantine,
and must not communicate with any person, be who they may, until after
the health visit has passed.
7. When the health visit has fulfilled her office, the commandant of
the guard-ship will strike the red and yellow flags, mentioned in the
Articles 1st and 3d.
8. Having permission to communicate with the shore, captains will
present themselves at the Captain of the Port's office, where they will
fully inform him of the police of the port.
9. On arriving at the anchorage of Point Lara, captains who wish to
enter the port of Ensenada, will hoist a flag at the mizen-mast, proceed
to the vicinity of the fortress, and there wait the health and war
visit. They are expressly forbidden to communicate with any person,
under the penalties established by the quarantine laws.
10. Ships of war are an exception; they are not required to conform to
the above articles.
11. All ships of war, in which the crew may be attacked by a contagious
disorder, will hoist a yellow flag, and be subject to the laws of
quarantine.
ANCHORAGE DUES.
For foreign vessels, by the ton, four reals.
For national vessels, from foreign parts, two reals.
The dues mentioned in the two preceding articles must be paid, half on
arrival, and half on the departure of the vessel.
National and foreign vessels, which neither take nor receive cargo, will
only pay half the dues mentioned above.
Foreign vessels will pay, besides, on their entry, twelve dollars for
the health visit, and twelve dollars more upon their departure for the
health certificate.
National vessels only pay half for the visit and the health certificate.
The charges for pilots are included in the anchorage dues.
POLICE OF THE PORT.
Article 1. Every vessel anchored in the port of Buenos Ayres must
mutually render each other assistance, in case of drifting, or other
risk of average. Those who refuse will be subject to the sentence and
penalties prescribed by law.
2. In consequence of the little depth of water, it is expressly
enjoined to every vessel anchored in the port to have on its anchors
correspondent buoys, as vessels coming in and going out, not seeing
the buoys, run a risk of striking on the anchors. Those who fail using
precaution in this respect will be responsible for the averages and
losses that may result from it.
3. Vessels which have not buoys will give notice to the Captain of the
Port, who will send some, with a pilot to place them. The anchor must
not be raised without a permission to that effect.
4. At the moment of anchoring, the regular pilots will take care to
inform the captains, that they may provide themselves with every thing
necessary for the anchorage of their vessels; and if the pilot discovers
an infraction of this article, he will immediately inform the Captain
of the Port, under the penalty of being himself punished with all the
rigour prescribed by law, as negligence in this respect may cause the
greatest losses and averages.
5. If, in consequence of bad weather, the anchors and cables of a vessel
fail to hold, and it can be proved that those same cables and anchors
do not correspond with the size of the vessel, or that the cables were
in bad condition, then the said vessel shall be responsible for the
averages that may be occasioned thereby.
6. Every vessel from foreign parts, who moor themselves in the port,
without asking for a pilot at the Captain of the Port's office, will
be, by this proceeding, responsible for all the averages which may be
occasioned thereby, and will have no right of claim, in case they suffer
damage themselves.
7. Every vessel anchored, who may have its long boat or boat astern,
and, seeing another vessel under sail, neglects to haul them up out of
the way, not only will forfeit the right to claim in case of average,
but will even be responsible for that which such negligence may
occasion.
8. It is expressly forbidden to every vessel in the port to throw any
thing into the water, of their ballast, or any other object that does
not float, under the penalties prescribed by law.
9. It is forbidden to each vessel, under any pretext whatever, except at
the moment of her arrival, to fire salutes, in the inner roads at least,
without having first obtained permission of the Captain of the Port. The
captain of a vessel who infringes upon this article, will be placed at
the disposal of the government.
10. Boats belonging to vessels anchored in the outer and inner roads
must go on board one hour after sun-set.
11. All boats found on shore after the evening gun, and until the
morning gun has been fired, will be dismantled, and the crew punished
according to the case and circumstances.
PENALTIES TO WHICH THOSE ARE LIABLE WHO DESTROY IN ANY MANNER THE LINE
OF BUOYS ESTABLISHED BY THE GOVERNMENT.
Article 1. To throw a kedge anchor, or hold on in any manner whatever to
the said buoys, the punishment of the galleys.
2. Those who take them away, or change their places, unless it be by the
authority of government, will be punished with all the rigour of the
law, even to the penalty of death.
3. They will punish equally those who make a fire on the said buoys, or
by any other means attempt to destroy them.