necessary precaution in a warm climate. From the crowded state of the
church-yards, they are now taken to the New Burial-Ground, at the
Recolator; and corpses were removed thither from the church-yards, after
having been buried some time. Scenes of confusion, in consequence,
took place; with various imprecations from near relations, as mothers,
husbands, and wives, upon recognizing the bodies of those whom they
never expected to have seen again in this world.
The hearses are modelled after the French fashion, and are not followed
by mourners. The relatives of the deceased attend the burial-ground to
receive the body, and the church ceremonies of mass, &c. take place some
days after.
The death of a friar, or any priest, is announced by a particular
tolling of the bell.
The masses for the repose of the soul are performed at various churches,
according to the wish of the relatives, who issue printed notices,
inviting the friends of the deceased. Any one is at liberty to attend.
Those of respectability, who can afford to pay, have several masses: but
it is rather an expensive affair. The ceremony lasts from one to two
hours. An imitation coffin is placed near the altar, surrounded by
lights. If it be for a military or public man, the sword and hat are
placed on the coffin, and a company of soldiers fire a volley at the
church door. Towards the end of the mass, candles are put into the hands
of the male part of the congregation, and in a few minutes taken from
them again, and extinguished. At the close, the priests and friars,
headed by their superior, take their station, in two lines, near the
door, and receive and return the obeisances of the congregation.
The relations and particular friends adjourn to the dwelling-house
(sometimes to the refectory of the church), where a repast is prepared,
of cakes, fruit, wine, liqueurs, beer, &c. the room being lighted, and
hung with black and white decorations. I have heard some charming music
in these masses, and it is far from being an unimpressive scene: the
holding a light at the requiem of those we loved, carries with it a
pleasing idea. There is, however, more real feeling in the simple
country church-yard funerals in England, than in all this appeal to
the senses.
A fantastic ornamented hearse, for carrying the bodies of children
to their last home, has lately come into use. It has plumes of white
feathers streaming from the top, and is drawn by two mules; the rider,
a boy, is clothed after the manner of Astley's equestrians.
Until the year 1821, the Protestants had no allotted place of burial;
and, to satisfy the jealousy of the church, various subterfuges were
obliged to be resorted to, in order to obtain something like a christian
funeral. The government gave permission, and a piece of ground was
bought, near the Retiro, for a cemetery, which has been inclosed, and
a small chapel, with a neat portico of the Doric order, erected. The
expence amounted to 4800 dollars, which was defrayed by Protestants of
all classes: the British, were, of course, the chief contributors. The
number buried there, from January 1821, to June 1824, was 71; of which
60 were British subjects. The service is read by some of the parties
present.
At the funerals in the Protestant Burial-Ground, I have seen many Buenos
Ayreans, both male and female, attracted thither by curiosity; they paid
great attention, and expressed their approbation of our method of making
the graves so deep.
Before this ground was opened, Protestants were buried without any
service being read, and the shallow ground was hastily filled up. It was
a favour that their fellowman was allowed to take up his "everlasting
rest" in holy Catholic earth. I saw an English sailor interred in the
Cathedral church-yard: a police-man attended, to see that no unfair
means had been used, and three or four friars were strolling about. The
sailor mourners eyed them askance, declaring it was shameful that they
did not offer to perform the funeral service: "But what can you expect,"
they added, "in such an unchristianlike land?" Their resentment was
increased by seeing the mutilated body of a dead black child, which,
from the nature of their graves, had made its appearance above the
surface.
* * * * *
POLICE, &c.--To every barrier or parish an _alcalde_, or sitting
magistrate, is appointed, who takes cognizance of the offences and
disputes in his jurisdiction, and superintends the night-patrole. Every
male is liable to be called out to act as watchman for the night; and he
must attend, or provide a substitute, which costs six reals; and as this
happens very often, strangers find it a tax. The patrole are armed with
musquets and bayonets, and proceed through the streets at intervals
during the night, visiting public houses, &c.
The most inferior officer connected with the police, or any public
office, carries a rusty dragoon sword with him as his staff of office.
The very messenger that delivers the summons for the nightly patrole
comes thus armed, and upon the least provocation out goes the sword:
this has been of late years a little corrected.
Buenos Ayres can boast of a well-disposed and orderly population.
Robberies are sometimes committed, but nothing to the extent that might
be supposed; many more are committed in an English city of the same
magnitude, notwithstanding the expensive police. I have been out at all
hours of the night, and have felt myself as secure as though I were in
London, and perhaps more so.
The only time that I ever met with any thing like annoyance or
interruption in the streets, was from a soldier on guard at the Cabildo,
who made an attempt to push me from the pavement. I did not wish to
notice the affair; but a Creole friend insisted that I should do so,
stating, that in London he presumed Englishmen protected strangers when
insulted. He went with me to the guard-house, alleged a complaint before
an officer, and the soldier was confined: he appeared to be drunk.
The great blot of this country is, that amongst the lower orders, upon
the least quarrel, knives are out; and what in England would vent itself
in black eyes and bloody noses, here ends in murder; and until certain
and speedy punishment follows these deeds, it will ever be so. The
crime has decreased since the administration of Mr. Rivadavia, and
the enactment of the law prohibiting the wearing of knives; still
it continues in a degree. Justice is tardy, and the chance that the
criminal may again be at liberty deters people from prosecuting,
dreading his future vengeance. In England, where the law is strong,
every one assists to apprehend an offender; but here a lukewarmness
exists.
Several have, within these three years, suffered death for murder. I am
inclined to think, that a law upon the plan of Lord Ellenborough's act
would do much to stop it. A Portuguese, some months since, stabbed to
death the servant of Mr. Bevans, the Quaker engineer, in open day. The
opponents of boxing, in England, should pause ere they so decidedly
condemn it; its suppression might lead to more fatal results in deciding
quarrels.
It was a common event, long after I arrived, to see bodies of persons
who had been stabbed in some broil, exposed in the Plaza, to be
recognized by their relatives or friends, with a saucer placed at their
side to collect money to pay the expences of burying them.
These murders are confined to the very lowest orders of the people,
and are generally the effect of a drunken quarrel. I must do them the
justice to say, that I have not heard of any deliberate assassination,
committed either upon a native or foreigner. Their annals are free from
the refined murders of polished Europe, even, I regret to add, of our
own England; we must not always cite the latter as an example, when we
censure the abuses of other countries.
This stabbing system was thought so little of in Buenos Ayres, that no
one cared to seize the murderer. If by chance he was apprehended, a
short imprisonment sufficed, and he was then set at liberty to commit
more crimes. Six or seven murders have been related to me, as known to
have been committed by one man with apparent impunity; and that these
things should be so, excites the astonishment of all strangers.
Foreigners newly arrived were accustomed to carry pistols about their
persons at night; but this is very seldom the case now--they have more
confidence.
The thieves, in some of their feats, may rank in ingenuity with the
second-rate ones with us. One of their operations is hooking out
clothes, linen, &c. from rooms, by means of a long pole with a hook at
the end; and if the windows are not fastened at night, a risk is run of
being robbed, though the iron bars should prevent any one from entering.
Some friends of mine, lodging at the American Hotel, were plundered by
those pole gentlemen one night, although sleeping three in a room, and
they knew not of their loss until the morning, when they missed coats,
trowsers, &c.; a writing-desk had also been hauled towards the window,
the valuables taken out, and the loose papers scattered about the street
and room. The comparing notes in the morning of their losses, and
cursing the marauders, was laughable enough. Another friend was awoke at
break of day, and observed his waistcoat dangling in the middle of the
room from the top of a pole, and a man's arm extended through the iron
bars of the window guiding it. My friend having a sword could with ease
have cut off the thief's arm, but his humanity prompted him rather to
make an alarm; upon which the pole and waistcoat were dropped, and the
vagabond made his escape. Very serious losses of papers have been
sustained by this mode of robbery.
The boys about the theatre door begging for the return tickets, or
"contre-signs," were a great annoyance; they were perfect thieves,
and very impudent. I have lost several pocket handkerchiefs by their
talents. Having refused to give my pass-check one night, they secretly
followed me, and when near the wall of the Merced church, to my great
surprise, saluted me with a shower of stones and bricks: I pursued
the young rascals, but it was without effect. The soldiers prevent
occurrences of this sort now, and two or three that were caught in the
fact have been punished.
The boys in the streets of Buenos Ayres are as saucy a set of ragamuffins
as those of London, without that daring and instant battle of the English
boys. Many of their juvenile sports are similar to our's; as kite flying,
pitch in the hole, &c. They have a system of managing their kites, which
may be called privateering: a knife is affixed to the tail of the kite,
with which they endeavour to entangle other kites, and cut the string;
should they succeed, knife, kite, string--all become lawful prize.
Cricket, trap-ball, hoops, tops, and skipping, they do not practise.
Riding on the backs of sheep, harnessed as horses, is another amusement;
and those mutton cavalry are very expert.
The boys of the upper class are exceedingly well-behaved, and have very
pleasing manners: they excel our's in this respect. The greatest care is
bestowed upon them; and we do not meet with that roughness among them,
which is observable in my young countryfolks. The Buenos Ayres boy
addresses a stranger in the street hat in hand, and with the greatest
respect.
Since my abode in Buenos Ayres, I have been lucky enough to keep clear
of all law proceedings; and never, until lately, visited a judicial
court, except from curiosity. I was, however, requested to appear, in
order to speak to the character of an English sailor, who was imprisoned
at the Cabildo for a row, on the beach. I visited the prison, and found
poor Jack roaming about a spacious yard, with lots of other prisoners;
he spoke highly of the kind treatment he had received in prison. The
presiding judge, or magistrate (a most gentlemanly man), after hearing
the depositions read, discharged the sailor, no witnesses appearing
for the prosecution. Mr. Poussett, the vice-consul, attended upon this
occasion, and received every attention from the judge.
The mode of punishment by death is shooting; many think that hanging
would be more appropriate for murder, and that the soldier's death ought
to be reserved for a soldier: however, death cancels all crimes.
In a public whipping, the offender is placed on a horse or mule, with
his back bared, and his hands tied, and at the corners of streets he
receives his punishment: those disgusting scenes I always avoid, if I
can. I came once in contact with one: the poor wretch did not seem to
suffer much; I fancied I had been as severely flogged at school. They
appeared to strike him about a dozen quick blows at a time, with a piece
of wood like a scrubbing-brush with some sharp substance attached.
Those ordered for imprisonment, are made to work in the streets, heavily
ironed.
Sailors are punished by being put in the stocks; and for criminal
offences, they are made to work in the streets in irons.
The close of the year 1824 witnessed a great increase of crime in Buenos
Ayres. An atrocious murder was committed by two black fellows, upon a
Genoese, who kept a tin shop near the College church. The murderers
were apprehended, and shot at the Retiro, and their bodies afterwards
suspended upon a gallows. A boy, accessary to the fact (having let the
villains into the house), escaped capital punishment, being under the
age regulated by law: he was, however, present at the execution. Two
fellows broke into the house of Mr. Nelson, an English merchant, and
stabbed his man-servant in several places; an alarm being given, they
effected their escape. The servant recovered from his wounds. Numerous
other robberies have taken place; amongst which, Mr. Parvin, an American
clergyman, and three of his friends, were stripped of their clothes, a
short distance from town.
The first execution in this country for forgery took place in February,
1825, upon the person of Marcelo Valdivia, who was shot at the Retiro.
By the old Spanish law, a person convicted of forgery was condemned to
lose his hand. This young man had been before sentenced to death for the
same crime, but his punishment was commuted to exposure in the Plaza,
imprisonment for eight years, and banishment for life. In July, 1824, he
underwent the first part of his sentence, being seated in the Plaza for
four hours, with the notes he had forged suspended from his breast.
In prison, he committed other forgeries, including a forged order for
his own release. The government have been highly applauded for their
firmness in punishing this criminal. His friends applied to the British
consul for his intercession, which was declined. Colonel Forbes, the
American agent, was much censured for having, in 1821, interfered and
saved a murderer from justice.
A black woman was shot, for attempting the life of her mistress. The
execution of a female is a rare thing in this country.
Much as Buenos Ayres has improved in her jurisprudence, she has still a
great deal to amend--that part which relates to committal before trial
for civil offences particularly. The two following circumstances passed
under my observation.
Upon the first issue of paper money, some forgeries were detected. An
English captain, West, of the brig _Fortune_, conversing on this subject
at a tavern, remarked, that a forgery might easily be effected; and that
the gentlemen in that line at home would not be long about such a thing.
This was reported to the police; and he was sent to prison without
examination, upon suspicion of knowing of the forged notes, and was not
released for some days.
In another case, Captain Harrison, of the brig _Asia_, was imprisoned
nearly a month, for bringing a false report of Monte Video being
blockaded; which was indeed partly true, Brazilian schooners of war
having been off there, and sailed for Colonia.
If such regulations were followed in England, we must build more prisons
as well as churches, and I know not what would become of the gentlemen
of the Stock Exchange.
The trial by jury, which alone is worth fighting for, may yet reach
South America. Every abuse cannot at once be rectified; they have,
already, done wonders in this country.
Law proceedings are as expensive and tardy here, as in other parts of
the globe. What with depositions, answers, &c. the suit goes on for
years to the great benefit of lawyers; but they have reformed a great
deal of the old obnoxious Spanish laws, particularly as they related to
foreigners and their property. By the old law, when a foreigner died,
their property in the country went to the state.
To leave Buenos Ayres, if it is only for a neighbouring town, passports
must be obtained, which cost two dollars to quit the country, and four
reals for any neighbouring town. Surprise is expressed that we can
manage without those ceremonies in England; some passengers arriving
from thence were once asked by a visiting officer for their English
passports.
* * * * *
ARMY.--The standing army of the province consists of from 2500 to 3000
men in six regiments, _viz._ three of infantry, and three of cavalry. Of
the infantry, there is one regiment of artillery, one Caçadores, and one
of the line. There are also two regiments of Civicas, or militia.
The troops have lately improved, both in appearance and discipline; and
indeed, there was great need of it: at present, a great deal cannot be
said in their praise. Their manoeuvres are few, such as forming line,
companies, &c. and some minor movements, as firing volleys, street
firing, &c. sufficient, probably, for the warfare in which they are
likely to be engaged. The sudden change of front, close column, solid
squares, the quick deploying into line, close firing, and rapid bayonet
charge, are not to be seen among the troops of Buenos Ayres. Against
veterans they could make but a feeble resistance; but in defending
the town, with the assistance of the inhabitants and their house
fortifications, they would be invincible; and to this mode of fighting
I would advise the Buenos Ayreans to trust, should their city ever again
be attacked.
The artillery corps are better: they work the guns with smartness, and
have a good train of artillery, of six, eight, and twelve pounders,
taken from the Spaniards at Monte Video and other places. Repeated
exercise and firing take place with those great guns, early in a
morning, on the beach.
The uniform coat of the soldiers is blue, with different facings of red,
white, and green: they have caps like our infantry. The undress is a
foraging cap, with a loop hanging on one side, trowsers of all colours,
and some without shoes or stockings. The recruits are not immediately
clothed in the soldier's uniform, but drilled in all their dirt and
native raggedness. The population will not admit of the mode of
recruiting practised in Europe; they take every one they can: the
equipments and material of their army are not, in consequence, very
imposing.
If the men, in their attire, look sometimes like Sir John Falstaff's
famed regiment--not so the officers; they have fine showy uniforms, and
cocked hats with the national cockade. The subaltern part are young men;
the colonels make a good soldier-like appearance. Colonel Ramirez, in
his blue coat and gold epaulets, always puts me in mind of a British
naval officer; and Colonel Alvarez, who was wounded in our storming of
Monte Video, reminds me of Raymond of Drury-Lane theatre.
There are some French and German officers in the service: the former, in
blue coats and white facings, still look like the soldiers of Napoleon.
The only English officer at present in the military service of Buenos
Ayres, is a gentleman named Charles Bowness; who, from having been
nearly fifteen years in this country, is, in appearance, more like a
Spaniard than an Englishman. He left England when very young, and has
not heard of his family since his departure.
It was seldom that military officers were seen out of uniform; they wore
it in the theatre, in the coffee-house, and in the assembly. But this
fashion has changed; and when not on duty, the dress of the citizen is
now preferred. On the continent of Europe, we are in constant contact
with the military, and as constantly reminded of military despotism.
The infantry soldier is armed with a musquet and bayonet: the musquets
have the Tower of London mark, and, as well as the cavalry swords, would
look all the better for cleaning. The sergeants of infantry do not
carry halberts. The regular cavalry are few in number, and not quite
so brilliant as the Marquis of Anglesea's crack regiment, or the Tenth
Hussars.
The punishment of flogging is resorted to: I have often heard the cries
of the sufferers belonging to a black regiment, quartered near my abode.
I fear it is impossible to keep discipline without it, or public opinion
would, long ere this, have suppressed it in England.
The bands of music attached to the regiments have made great progress
in their profession: three years ago they were hardly bearable.
Unfortunately, now, the ruling military authorities will not give us
much opportunity of judging of their talents. They were accustomed, on a
fine evening, to leave the Fort, in the summer at nine, in the winter at
eight o'clock, and crossing the Plaza, take their station in one of the
streets adjoining, generally the street of Victoria, or, as we named it,
Bond Street, from its being the fashionable one, and filled with shops:
here they would entertain us for an hour or more, and I have been
gratified in hearing many tunes that charmed me in Europe, such as the
overture to _Lodoiska_, &c. Another attraction was the number of girls
that nightly attended: many a lover ("how silvery sweet sound lovers'
tongues by night") has taken this opportunity to address his fair one.
On a moonlight night, I have frequently viewed the countenances and
elegant figures of the sweet creatures, no envious bonnet intercepting;
and now some unmusical being has deprived me of this pleasure--I wish he
would read Lorenzo's observation in the _Merchant of Venice_ upon those
who lack taste in music.
About four times in the week, however, at eight or nine in the evening,
one of the military bands parade from the Fort to their barracks at the
Retiro, and at times we have heard some good music. On a fine night much
company attend. From constant practice, the regimental musical bands
have become proficients in their art; they perform some fine pieces of
music, including the overture to _Lodoiska_, and the _Polacca_ from the
opera of _The Cabinet_. Braham ever occurs to my memory, when I hear the
latter performed, and the enthusiasm with which a London audience always
hail this song.
The dresses of the bands are of the Turkish costume, and though not so
splendid as our third regiment of foot-guards, are equal to those of the
line. They have instruments of English manufacture, all that constitutes
a military band--triangle, cymbals, and bells, similar to our first
regiment of Guards.
In 1820, some English shopkeepers and mechanics, in the excess of their
zeal, determined to form a corps of cavalry, to act as body-guard to the
governor. Twenty or thirty equipped themselves in a light blue jacket,
and nondescript cap, and attended the procession as the life-guards of
the state. The St. George assault, and vulgar exercise of the sword,
made no part of their discipline. Now, whether Englishmen make but a
poor figure when armed in the service of a foreign people, or that
opinion is against it, from Coriolanus downwards, I know not; certain it
is, that this regiment has decreased from its full complement to some
five or six rank and file.