impossible to get change of a doubloon without allowing a consideration
for it. Foreigners, of course, bore the blame of draining the country
of the money. To remedy the evil, small notes were issued; and, shortly
after, a large supply of copper coin arrived, that had been contracted
for in England. This currency of paper and copper was something so new,
that not a few sneers and forebodings took place. The facility that
paper money affords to business, however, soon began to be experienced
in Buenos Ayres. Previous to its issue, if a person had to receive a
hundred dollars, it was necessary to hire a porter to carry it, and
for larger quantities a cart; besides the endless trouble of counting
thousands of dollars, often in reals and madios, and the detection of
bad money: hours and days of valuable time were consumed by it. The
collecting clerks are no longer tormented with counting piles of silver,
before they take it from the house. Saturdays are the days appropriated
for money collecting.
Notes, engraved in England, are now issued on a grand scale, from 5 to
1000 dollars, upon the security of the government and bank; the people
are reconciled to it, and begin to find that a currency of gold and
silver is not at all times a proof of the credit or riches of a
nation.[26]
[26] Englishmen, on their first visit to France, soon after the peace
of 1814, were eager to receive French gold; but they soon tired of it,
and asked for paper. I was at Peregaux and Lafitte's banking-house at
Paris, when an application of that nature was made: the clerk replied,
that France must first get credit, before she could venture upon
bank-notes.
Besides the above notes, the present currency consists of the doubloon
of 17 dollars; the half, quarter, and half-quarter doubloon; the dollar,
half dollar, and quarter dollar; with reals, madios, and quartillos. The
hard dollars are scarce, being bought up for exportation.
In exporting money, there is a small duty of two per cent. to pay. Being
so trifling, it prevents smuggling, which was formerly the case. Making
returns in produce, however, is at all times preferred to money, when it
can be obtained at any thing like a moderate rate; but it is at times so
scarce and dear, that it renders the purchasing ruinous.
The average exchange for the last three years has been forty-five pence
the Spanish dollar.
The Bank of Buenos Ayres opened in 1822, the first thing of the sort in
this province. Its capital is one million of dollars, in 1000 shares, of
1000 dollars each. The number of directors are ten, _viz._ six Creolian
gentlemen, and four British. It has hitherto proved a profitable
concern. The Bank shares rose from par to 170, but quickly declined to
90 and 100 per cent. premium, at which price they seem stationary. The
last dividend paid on Bank stock was after the rate of 30 per cent.
The reported establishment of a National Bank, has created some alarm,
amongst the present Bank proprietors; numerous controversies have taken
place in the newspapers, upon the occasion. The affair, however, seems
at rest for the present.
The government funds of Buenos Ayres have lately had a considerable
rise, from 28 to 100. The bulls carry all before them; and the bears
have had to pay pretty handsomely. Who knows but a Stock Exchange may be
established here some years hence?
Considerable sums of money have been made by the advance in the public
funds in Buenos Ayres; and, from the eagerness of all classes to
speculate in them, it is probable that lame ducks will not be confined
to Capel Court. Every shopkeeper now dabbles in the funds; and, in a
market so confined, the mischief may be very serious.
* * * * *
EDUCATION, and LITERATURE.--The government expresses the most laudable
anxiety to forward education, by patronizing schools upon the
Lancasterian system; and the numerous seminaries in this city are a
credit to the people.
The College School consists of 125 youths, from the age of 15 to 16 or
17 years of age. In their walks, they wear black clothes, with a light
blue ribbon over their coat. Their behaviour is better than that of the
boys at our public schools: a person may mix amongst them, without being
subject to those insolent remarks so common at home, and which makes a
stranger dread to enter their precincts.
At the Buenos Ayres College, pupils are taught every branch of
the classics. They have not the advantage of professors, as at
Oxford, Cambridge, Eton, Westminster, and the rest of our public
schools--professors, whose talents not only confer honour upon their
country, but on the human species generally. Some students have elicited
considerable talents. A younger branch of the Belgrano family, Manuel,
wrote a play founded on _The Virgin of the Sun_, which was performed
with success; he has likewise acquired a knowledge of the English
language, and is at present employed in the British Consul's office.
In the Merced Church, an academy is held for the instruction of 30
youths in the study of divinity.
Among the numerous seminaries here, is one kept by an English lady, Mrs.
Hyne, which receives great encouragement; she has had 70 scholars at a
time, who are taught, with other requisites, the English language. From
the anxiety expressed by parents, that their children should attain this
language, the next generation will become completely anglicised. In
placing them under the care of a Protestant lady, they are not so
narrow-minded as to fear that their religion will be tampered with.
One of the stripling scholars conversed with me the other day in good
English, which he had learned in a very short period.
A number of Buenos Ayrean gentlemen speak and write the English language
with much fluency and correctness. Don Manuel Sarratea, late a governor
of the province, and who resided some time in London as their minister,
is a proficient, and a man of talent. To the British he is very
attentive, and is much respected by them. Don Miguel Riglos is another
instance: this gentleman has made the tour of Great Britain, and speaks
English with so little of foreign accent, that, on my introduction
to him, I supposed him to be an Englishman: his manners are very
prepossessing and amiable. Some self-taught young men have also an
excellent idea of it, and others express a great desire to learn it. It
has now become a branch of education in their public schools; and, from
the continued intercourse they are likely to have with the British and
North Americans, and others who speak the English tongue, the utility
of learning it will become every day more apparent, and, as regards
business, it will be of greater importance than the French.
The prejudices of ages is fast wearing away: the South-Americans,
and, Spain herself, no longer view us as renegades, heretics,
"God-abandoned." Twenty years back, England and Englishmen were as
little known or understood by the Buenos Ayreans, as is the interior of
the Chinese empire now to the rest of the world. For centuries past,
care was taken to inflame the passions of the Spaniards against us and
our country; and it is not strange that a remnant of this animosity yet
remains. Their best poets have stigmatised us: I recollect hearing, in
Buenos Ayres, that part of Lope de Vegas' popular ballad--
"My brother Don John to England's gone,
To kill the Drake, the Queen to take,
And the heretics all to destroy;
And he shall bring you a Protestant maid
To be your slave, &c."
It is gratifying to observe, that those Creolians who have been in
England evince the greatest attachment to us.
In the college of Stonyhurst, near Liverpool, are several Buenos
Ayrean youths, who have been sent thither to be educated. The
British government deserves praise for the countenance given to this
establishment; silencing at once the complaints of our own Catholics, in
not having a proper place to educate their sons, and bringing the youth
of foreign nations in contact with our's, from whence it is natural
to expect they will feel an attachment to a country where they have
received almost their first impressions. So far from its infecting our
population with Catholicism,[27] the reverse would seem more probable.
It will give strangers an opportunity of judging, from actual
observation, of the institutions of our country, and the advantages
arising from a liberal system of government.
[27] A book entitled _A History of the Jesuits_, but which is
chiefly filled with attacks upon the Roman Catholic faith, holds out
Stonyhurst College as pregnant with danger, asserting that it has
already increased the number of Catholics in its immediate vicinity.
Lancashire has always been a catholic county, and it is to be expected
that people will crowd to a neighbourhood that contains edifices
devoted to their manner of worship. I cannot believe that any
considerable number of Proselytes has been made: we are too sensible
of the happiness enjoyed under our own, to be caught with the glare of
another church.
The education bestowed upon females is far from being solid: reading,
writing, music, and dancing, are all that is thought necessary. In the
two last they are enthusiasts, and some of the proficients; the study
of languages, or deep reading, is not thought of consequence. Spanish
husbands, they say, have an antipathy to blue-stocking wives: from the
natural talent of the females, they would soon be adepts in more
abstruse studies.
If the Buenos Ayrean ladies do not possess the higher branches of
learning, they have an indescribable sweetness of manners, free from
affectation, at once giving confidence to the timid stranger, and
delightful to all who have the happiness to know them. They seldom
address a person but with a smile, listen attentively to conversation,
without that listless indifference, and answering with the monosyllables
of _yes_ and _no_, that I have witnessed in some societies.
The time may arrive, when South America may have to boast her Madame de
Staels and a host of female literati; and another Corinna may conduct
her lover over Southern scenery, the snow-topt Andes, and Imperial
Cusco, with as much soft enthusiasm as belongs to her Italian rival. At
present, however, their natural talent is thrown into the shade, for
want of cultivation.
The letter-writing between female friends is very energetic: I caught
a glimpse of one, which ran thus--"Farewell, my idolized and beloved
friend! receive the heart of your devoted, constant, faithful, &c."
Notwithstanding this fervour, we never hear of those fatal love
attachments that end so tragically with us: is it that, south of the
line, the female heart is so tenderly moulded, they will not bid the
despairing lover die? or, are they convinced, "that men have died, and
worms have eaten them, but not for love," and therefore doubt the truth
of man's protestations? Alas! I fear that, in this love-inspiring city
of Buenos Ayres, it is possible to find Violas and Rosalinds, but not
many Juliets, and of the other sex still fewer Werters.
The Spanish language is certainly delightful; its very sounds bring to
recollection the Don Guzmans and Don Antonios of chivalric days. I wish
they would make it the fashionable study in England, as in good queen
Elizabeth's reign, instead of the trifling French. From the great
changes in the Spanish world, and our South-American connections, it
must ever be an object of importance.
A work published in London, by Mr. Ackerman, in the Spanish language,
with plates, called _Variedades et Mensagero de Londres_, has numerous
purchasers here. It is published quarterly, and reflects great credit
on its author. This publication will afford to the South Americans an
excellent idea of Great Britain and Europe generally;[28] it contains
selections from our best authors.
[28] Many of the Buenos Ayreans, of the second and third grade, have
most confused notions of London. They think that all England is in
London; and in speaking of the arrival of a vessel from Liverpool,
Falmouth, or any other port, they add Liverpool in London, Falmouth in
London; and when speaking of English passengers arriving, no matter
from what part, they are all from London. Seeing so many Englishmen in
their country, gentry of the above description have the most exalted
notions of themselves, and of the superiority of Buenos Ayres over the
rest of the world. We must not blame their self-importance; for we
have a tolerable share of it ourselves, else the world has terribly
belied us.
The NEWSPAPERS published in Buenos Ayres are, the _Argus_, _Teatro del
Opinion_, _Republicano_, and _State Register_. There was, likewise, a
Sunday paper, called the _Centinella_, which has been discontinued--for
what reason I know not, for it was managed with ability. The freedom of
the press may be said to exist in a degree here; to the same extent as
in England, would be dangerous at present.
The _Mercantile Gazette_, edited by Mr. Hallet, a North-American
gentleman, is very useful; it has every sort of commercial information.
A newspaper of the same description, the _Diario_, carried on by a
Portuguese, failed for want of requisite attention.
A number of ephemeral productions appear from time to time, "to fret and
strut their hour upon the stage, and then are heard no more."
In the almanack of 1824, there is a selection of English puns and Joe
Miller's jests, to amuse the Buenos Ayreans, and give them a specimen of
English low wit.
* * * * *
The PRINTING-OFFICES are spacious, and furnished with every requisite,
from London. An English printer, Mr. Cook, is employed in one of the
offices, and report states his professional talents to be of the first
order.
* * * * *
RELIGION.--Previous to the late treaty with Great Britain, no other
place of public worship was allowed in Buenos Ayres, except those of the
Romish church; and it was only after much discussion, that the article
allowing religious toleration was obtained.
The Catholic faith has been denominated a religion of the fancy; the
Protestant, one of the mind. A book I have lately read, Blunt's _Italy_,
ingeniously endeavours to prove that most of the Catholic ceremonies
are remnants of Paganism; and the author illustrates his arguments by
comparing the Roman with the Popish festivals. The great similarity
would certainly incline one to give credence to the assertion. The
reformed church, however, has its incongruities likewise. In Buenos
Ayres I have not witnessed any thing like the superstition that reigns
in Belgium; bigots there are, but not more than in some of our sects at
home. The rising generation of Buenos Ayres have gone from one extreme
to another, and are quite Voltairians: at the theatre, during a portrait
exhibition of different public characters, that of Voltaire ran away
with all the applause.
In January, 1824, an archbishop, named Don Juan Muzi, arrived from Rome
with a large suite, in a Sardinian brig, which hoisted the Papal flag in
addition to her own, and fired a salute. Some time ago, such an event
would have put the whole town in commotion; as it was, few attended to
see him land, and his reception by the government was any thing but
cordial: he shortly after departed for Chili. During his abode, he
lodged at Faunch's Hotel, and there gave his benedictions to the
crowds that visited him, who were mostly females, attracted, I thought,
more from curiosity than from any other motive. The manifest of the
archbishop's effects raised a smile:--there were beads, crosses, and
every trifling appendage of the church. The archbishop himself, from his
venerable aspect and mild manners, engaged the esteem of all; but the
Papal power is on the wane here now, whatever it might have been in
other times. The Catholic church, however, under the care of a liberal
priesthood, and shorn of its superstitions, will insure the respect of
all countries.
A church, in Catholic countries, ever possesses something to strike the
eye, though there may not be service going on. There are generally to
be seen numbers of poor old women, before their saint, counting their
beads, the low murmurings of their prayers alone breathing the silence
of the place: many times have I advanced with cautious steps, fearing
to interrupt their devotions. The absence of a congregation gives one,
likewise, an opportunity of a closer inspection of the glittering
altars, virgins, saints, and Madonas. No fear exists that sacrilegious
hands would dare purloin any thing from the sacred walls; alas! in
England, our thieves would not be so scrupulous.
The churches, on a Sunday, or feast day, are worthy a stranger's
attention; and he must be cold indeed, that can view such an assemblage
of beauty unmoved: the dress, the veil, and prostrate persons; indeed,
we might picture other Lauras besides Petrarch's: it is almost enough to
make one turn renegade, forsake the religion of our fathers, and rush
into the bosom of a church so enchanting.
Public worship takes place at various hours: one mass, as early as six
in the morning, and the sweet girls and their mothers are seen hurrying
to church at that early hour.
Families going to mass are attended by slaves and servants carrying the
carpeting upon which they kneel. Of books they have few enough; and
would, I dare say, stare to see our London footmen, in gorgeous
liveries, looking like Austrian field-marshals, walking behind their
mistresses, with a load of books, to church, and the host of carriages
that attend a fashionable chapel.
Upon entering or leaving a church, many of the congregation are content
to receive the holy water at second hand; that is to say, one who is
near the vessel which contains it will dip his fingers in, and furnish
to three or four other persons drops of the sacred element, to make the
sign of the cross. The ladies often condescend to mark with this water
the foreheads of their female slaves and attendants.
At "oration time," in the dusk of evening, a small bell tingles from the
churches, when, it is presumed, every true Catholic whispers a prayer.
In Buenos Ayres, I am afraid, this is not always the case.
Some of the music sung in the masses is very pretty: friars and boys
are the vocalists, selected from the best voices. Friar Juan, at the
Cathedral, has a fine bass voice. The Portuguese hymn they sing with
science; but, as I had heard this hymn at the Portuguese Ambassador's
Chapel in London, in which several of the first-rates of the Opera took
parts, the effect here was diminished: they select, too, from profane
music, and I applaud them for it, following the remark attributed to our
Rev. Rowland Hill, on the introduction of "Rule Britannia," and "Hearts
of Oak," into his chapel--"It is really a great shame the devil should
have all the pretty tunes to himself." If music be the "food of love,"
it is equally so of religion, insensibly leading the mind to an
enthusiasm, and that softness, that compensates for "a dull age of
pain." I wish they would reform the dismal hum-drum music of our English
churches. I do not wish the lively dance; but something a little less
gloomy than the present mode. My English friends will be shocked to hear
that in a Buenos Ayres church they have played and sung to the charming
air that opens our petit opera of _Paul and Virginia_, "See from ocean
rising." At Monte Video, I heard the Tyrolean war song, or our "Merrily
O," upon the organ, in a church. Music and religion have, and will,
raise these people to war and desperation; other causes must combine to
have the same effect upon Englishmen.
Persons of both sexes go to confession very young--even at the early age
of ten years. At church confessions, the priest is seated in the box,
to which there is an iron-grating on one side, and through this he hears
the confession of the parties upon their knees outside. I have seen
several women confess;--somehow or other the sex have more devotion than
us men. Doubtless, it is a relief to the overcharged heart to unbosom
itself, and receive the consolations of religion; and I can fancy the
happiness experienced from the gentle expostulations of an amiable
priest, who, in censuring the errors, bids the sinner not despair of
mercy. We, of Protestant creed, appeal to God alone, disdaining earthly
interference. This system of divulging our inmost thoughts has, at all
times, been an argument with the opponents of the Romish church, who
instance, that the peace of families or nations are at the mercy of a
mortal man; and if breaches of confidence are rare, still some villain
might betray his trust, and ruin his unsuspecting victims. To the honour
of the Catholic priesthood, such probabilities are very remote. I am
afraid that I should make a sad father confessor: loveliness upon the
bended knee before me would destroy all my philosophy; I should at once
accord them absolution, remission, and every thing else; and, forgetful
of my oaths and sacred calling, turn suppliant at the feet of those who
came to me as their pastor and guide.
Females are at times seen in the streets habited as nuns, in flannel
vestments, crosses, beads, &c. the effect of a vow made during sickness
or penance. The sins of some of these young creatures cannot have been
very flagrant: I should have pardoned them for the pleasure of receiving
their confessions again. There is likewise a house in which females pass
weeks in penitence and prayer.
It is observed of the Spanish female, that she will give herself up
to all the voluptuousness of pleasure, haste to the church, and,
prostrating herself before her favourite saint, return to sin again.
I will not venture to be so severe a censurer as to hazard an opinion
upon this: but, as my eye wandered over the countenances of many a
fair creature of Buenos Ayres, kneeling in graceful beauty before the
inanimate saint, I fancied all and more than books had ever told me;
for, "with faces that seemed as if they had just looked in Paradise, and
caught its early beauty," I fancied that many of earthly mould shared in
those contemplations so seemingly devoted to heaven.
Small figures of the Virgin Mary, in glass cases, are kept in the
apartments of various homes. In apothecaries' shops I have particularly
noticed them, to bespeak a blessing, doubtless, upon their physic. In
the mansions of the poorer class they are more frequently seen; the
costly saint and miserable dirty furniture of the rooms contrasted. A
full-length figure of a saint, in a wire cage, with lamps on each side,
is in the street of Le Cuyo, placed in accordance with a vow made in
a period of danger; but, in general, there are less externals of the
church in the public streets and roads than might be expected.
On passing a church, it was a constant custom to take off the hat;
but few do it now. The beggars about these holy edifices clamour for
charity, for the love of God and St. Rosario, or any other apostle
favourite. These beggars are great thieves; I have lost several articles
by their professional visits to my lodgings. They do not shoulder
crutches and wooden legs, either to fight or run, as their London
brethren, upon the approach of the police. One of my friends told me of
an old woman, in Buenos Ayres, that spits upon every person she supposes
to be an Englishman. Not having had the fortune to receive this lady's
favours, I cannot vouch for the truth of the story.
The priesthood are not so illiberal as report makes them out; they are
painted to us as having a fixed hatred to Protestants, conceiving them
to be the authors of all the obloquy the Catholics have endured from
time to time. It must be recollected, that we have our errors on the
score of prejudice likewise.
The friars of Buenos Ayres have amongst their body men of considerable
learning; and, whatever hostility exists towards the system, they, as
individuals, do not generally share in it. There may be one or two black
sheep in the flock; and scandal takes care to blazen forth their deeds,
particularly all that relates to their amours, but the common frailty
of our nature should teach us to be merciful judges where love is
concerned. The people have much respect for them; and, from what I have
heard, they deserve it. Formerly, it is related, that on any offender
being flogged in the public streets, the appearance of a priest calling
for mercy would stop the infliction. If this was the case in England,
our unflogged thieves would be bound to pray for them.